AMLO delivers sixth and final report to the nation before thousands of supporters

By

MND Staff

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September 2, 2024

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Mexico's president gave his sixth and final report to the nation on Sunday. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

Poverty reduction.

The creation of a public health system that is “better” than Denmark’s.

Economic growth above 3% in the post-pandemic years.

The establishment of “the foundations for transformation that the country needed.”

These are some of the achievements — or alleged achievements — that President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO) highlighted during a two-hour-long address in Mexico City’s central square on Sunday.

In front of a large crowd of supporters exactly one month before the end of his six-year term as president, the 70-year-old Tabasco native delivered his sixth and final report to the nation, an annual State of the Union-style address.

López Obrador — an indefatigable orator who has held weekday morning press conferences throughout his presidency — declared near the end of his lengthy speech that he would retire next month with a “calm conscience” and as a “very happy” man.

AMLO gave his sixth report to the nation exactly one month before the end of his six-year term as president. — “First of all, nothing makes me happier than having achieved … the reduction of poverty and inequality in the country,” the president said. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

“First of all, nothing makes me happier than having achieved … the reduction of poverty and inequality in the country,” the president said.

“I’m also relaxed about leaving office because she to whom I will hand over the presidential sash … is an exceptional, experienced, honest, well-intentioned, good-hearted woman who supports the foundational principles of our movement of transformation,” López Obrador said.

“[She’s an] authentic defender of equality, of freedom, of justice, of democracy, of sovereignty. Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo — presidenta!”

‘100,000 Mexicans are lifted out of poverty every month’

AMLO, a self-styled champion of Mexico’s most disadvantaged people, asserted that an additional 100,000 people per month fell into poverty during the six-year terms of former presidents Felipe Calderón (2006-12) and Enrique Peña Nieto (2012-18).

Claudia Sheinbaum during AMLO's sixth report to the nation on Sept. 1, 2024 — Mexico’s president-elect “is an exceptional, experienced, honest, well-intentioned, good-hearted woman who supports the foundational principles of our movement of transformation,” López Obrador said of Claudia Sheinbaum, who sat front row.(Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

“In contrast, during our government, 100,000 Mexicans are lifted out of poverty every month,” López Obrador told supporters in Constitution Square, commonly known as the Zócalo.

Poverty increased during the first half of López Obrador’s presidency, largely due to the economic impact of the COVID pandemic, but declined significantly in the second half.

AMLO highlighted data from the National Council for the Evaluation of Social Development Policy that shows that the number of people living in poverty in Mexico declined by 5.1 million between 2018 and 2022.

“According to official figures, a rich person earned, on average, 35 times more than a poor person in the times of Calderón. Now the difference has declined to 15 times [more],” López Obrador said.

“The minimum wage has increased more than 100% in real terms, something that hadn’t happened in the past 40 years.”

AMLO also emphasized the financial support his government has provided to millions of Mexicans via welfare programs such as the old age pension and disability support schemes, and employment programs.

Supporters of AMLO during his sixth report to the nation on Sept. 1, 2024 — Supporters gathered en masse on Sunday to say “Adiós AMLO.” (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

He said that just under 3 million young Mexicans have benefited from the government’s 132-billion-peso (US $6.6 billion) investment in the Youths Building the Future apprenticeship scheme, and that 433,000 campesinos receive monthly payments for their participation in the Sowing Life reforestation program.

“Let it be heard loud and clear, let it resonate far and wide, [Sowing Life] is the most important reforestation program in the world,” López Obrador said.

‘This public health system is now the most efficient in the world’

López Obrador noted that 23 of Mexico’s 32 federal entities have signed on to the government’s universal health scheme known as IMSS-Bienestar.

“This public health system is now the most efficient in the world,” he claimed without providing any hard evidence to back up his assertion.

“I said that it was going to be the best, that it was going to be like [the health system] in Denmark. No, it’s not like [the health system] in Denmark, it’s better,” López Obrador said.

The Animal Político news website described that assertion as “false.”

Among the healthcare achievements of his government, López Obrador highlighted:

The hiring of more than 48,000 additional doctors, including thousands from Cuba.
The modernization of more than 500 hospitals and clinics operated by the State Workers’ Social Security Institute (ISSTE).
The establishment of the government’s “Well-Being Mega Pharmacy.”

‘We’ve saved 2 trillion pesos by not allowing corruption’

Although alleged government corruption has been detected during his six-year term and Mexico still ranks 126th out of 180 countries on Transparency International’s Corruption Perceptions Index, López Obrador asserted on Sunday that corruption has been eliminated in the “executive power.”

“According to our calculations, we’ve saved around two trillion pesos (US $101 billion) during the six-year term by not allowing corruption,” he said.

Mexico's National Guardsmen searching for illegal fuel pipeline taps underground. — During his sixth report to the nation, AMLO asserted that the government’s crackdown on fuel theft has “generated savings of 342 billion pesos.” (National Guard/X)

The government’s crackdown on fuel theft — a crime in which a number of state oil company employees have been found to be complicit — has “generated savings of 342 billion pesos,” AMLO said.

“That amount, 342 billion pesos [US $17.3 billion], is what construction of the Dos Bocas refinery cost the nation,” he said.

López Obrador also highlighted a range of austerity measures his government has implemented, including reducing the salaries of federal officials, eliminating “extravagant” pensions for past presidents and abolishing more than 100 public trusts.

‘Mexico is one of the most attractive countries in which to invest’

Although there are major concerns among investors about the government’s judicial reform proposals and other bills that seek to change the constitution, López Obrador asserted that “Mexico is considered one of the most attractive countries in which to invest and do business” — a view also expressed by some high-profile United States business figures.

“We’ve achieved record figures in foreign investment: US $36 billion last year, and just in the first six months of 2024, US $31 billion in foreign investment has been received,” he said.

What AMLO didn’t mention is that the vast majority of foreign investment in Mexico in 2023 and 2024 has come from the reinvestment of profits from companies that already have a presence here.

Some experts regard the low levels of “new investment” as concerning given that Mexico is supposedly in the midst of a once-in-a-generation economic opportunity as a result of the nearshoring phenomenon.

With regard to trade, López Obrador noted that Mexico has surpassed China and Canada to become the top trade partner of the United States.

Mexico’s economic growth is ‘truly exceptional’

AMLO noted that Mexico suffered economically as a result of the COVID pandemic, with the economy contracting 8.5% in 2020.

However, despite also suffering from the “global crisis” precipitated by the Russia-Ukraine war, the Mexican economy has recovered, he said.

“From 2021 to now, we’ve grown by 3.4% per year on average. In the six-year period of government, even with the pandemic … we’re going to end with average growth of 1% [per year], something truly exceptional in the face of an extremely difficult economic environment in the country and the world,” López Obrador said.

Woman in a white lab coat repairing electronic equipment on an array of computers at the Continental automotive plant in Aguascalientes, Mexico — AMLO celebrated Mexico’s economic growth and competitiveness as a nearshoring partner. (Continental)

AMLO also noted that Mexico is now the 12th largest economy in the world, an improvement of three places compared to when he took office.

‘We’re 1 week away from inaugurating the entire Maya Train’

AMLO also drew attention to the many infrastructure projects his government has carried out during his six-year term.

While there are some doubts that all sections of the ambitious Maya Train railroad will open this year, López Obrador asserted that they will — and very soon.

“We’re one week away from inaugurating the entire Maya Train, the whole circuit,” he said.

“It will run 1,554 kilometers,” López Obrador said, noting also that the project, which has faced criticism on environmental grounds, involved the construction of 34 stations in five states: Tabasco, Campeche, Yucatán, Quintana Roo and Chiapas.

The government invested 515 billion pesos (US $26 billion) in the railroad without taking on any debt, he said, adding that the project created more than 660,000 jobs.

Among the other infrastructure projects López Obrador lauded were:

The Interoceanic Corridor of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, which will allow Mexico to become a “world shipping power,” according to Navy Minister José Rafael Ojeda Durán.
The Felipe Ángeles International Airport, located north of Mexico City in México state.
The Felipe Carrillo Puerto International Airport in Tulum, Quintana Roo.
The solar plant in Puerto Peñasco, Sonora.
The Olmeca Refinery on the Gulf coast in Tabasco.

An attendant stands outside the Maya Train, a major Mexican rail project, to welcome passengers — AMLO assured his audience on Sunday that the “whole circuit” of the Maya Train will be inaugurated in one week. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

‘Federal crimes have declined 24.8%’

López Obrador ran through a range of statistics that show that crime has declined during his six-year term of government.

“Federal jurisdiction crimes have declined 24.8%,” AMLO said, comparing 2024 data to that of 2018, the year he took office.

Homicide numbers have declined 18%, he said, without mentioning that more people have been murdered in his six-year term of government than in any other comparable period on record.

López Obrador — who frequently blames persistent security problems on the situation he inherited from previous governments — also cited significant double-digit declines in the incidence of robbery, femicide, vehicle theft and kidnapping.

“During the six-year term, we’ve maintained an average of 1,200 arrests of presumed criminals per day,” he added.

“The National Guard was created, and it has 135,471 well-trained and disciplined members,” said López Obrador, who also highlighted that his government’s security strategy — the so-called “hugs, not bullets” approach” — has led to a decline in confrontations between security forces and presumed criminals.

“In contrast to what happened during the neoliberal governments, the people are not repressed now, massacres aren’t carried out [by security forces], we don’t torture, we don’t kidnap anyone, the violation of human rights isn’t tolerated and a narco-state doesn’t exist like in … the previous six-year period of government [when Calderón was in office],” he said, without mentioning that soldiers and National Guard personnel have been accused of committing crimes, including murder, during his time in office.

López Obrador also said that progress has been made in the case of the 43 students who disappeared in Guerrero in 2014, although there is still considerable uncertainty about what happened to the young men.

‘Raise your hand those who think that it is better for the people to elect judges’

As thousands of people protested his proposed judicial reform on Mexico’s emblematic Paseo de la Reforma boulevard, López Obrador sought to demonstrate widespread support for the controversial initiative via a show of hands.

During his address, the president asked for a "show of hands" of those in favor of his proposed judicial reform. Most obliged. — During his address, the president asked for a “show of hands” of those in favor of his proposed judicial reform. Most obliged. (Alberto Roa/Cuartoscuro)

“Raise your hands those who think that it’s better for the president and the senators to choose the [Supreme Court] justices and the judges. Raise your hands. I don’t see anyone,” the president said.

“Raise your hands those who think it’s better for the people to elect the judges,” he directed his supporters, known colloquially as AMLOvers.

“… This helps to understand the sentiment of the people,” AMLO said after the crowd reacted exactly as he expected.

He subsequently suggested that “our neighbors and friends” in the United States should take notice of the demonstration of support for the reform proposal.

Among those “friends” is U.S. Ambassador to Mexico Ken Salazar, who recently earned a rebuke from the president after he criticized the proposed reform in a strongly-worded statement.

‘We’ve set the bases for the transformation that the country needed’

During the closing remarks to his marathon speech, López Obrador declared that his government has “set the bases for the transformation that the country needed.”

AMLO asserted that his administration has separated “economic power from political power” and served as a government that represents all Mexicans, rather than the nation’s elite.

“We need to continue with this policy, [we need] an authentic democracy, not a simulation, not an oligarchy with a facade of democracy,” he said.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

* Previous annual reports

Click on the links below to read MND articles on López Obrador’s first five annual reports.

Zacatecas religious festival suspended after brawl breaks out

By

MND Staff

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September 2, 2024

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The National Guard arrived shortly after the fight broke out at Las Morismas de Bracho. (Adolfo Vladimir/Cuartoscuro)

One of the most important religious festivals in the state of Zacatecas was suspended on Sunday after a brawl broke out among a few of the nearly 30,000 participants.

Approximately 150,000 people were on hand for the conclusion of the four-day event known as Las Morismas de Bracho (The Moors of Bracho) when a fight between two participating youths escalated, threatening to turn the reenactment into a melee.

Las Morismas de Bracho was canceled on Sunday, Sept. 1, 2024, after a fight broke out. — Four people were reported injured — though none seriously — and one person was arrested. (Adolfo Vladimir/Cuartoscuro)

Federal, state and municipal authorities were on the scene quickly to prevent further escalation, including members of the National Guard.

In consultation with state and local Civil Protection agents, organizers then suspended the remainder of the festival. Four people were reported injured — though none seriously — and one person was arrested.

Celebrated since 1824, Las Morismas de Bracho combines oral tradition, street theater and folklore to re-enact the medieval battles between Muslims and Christians known as the Crusades, although the festival is dedicated to St. John the Baptist.

According to the news outlet Imagen Zacatecas, two youths who had been fighting earlier in the day came to blows just as the performance was about to culminate. The two allegedly intoxicated antagonists then started swinging their prop shotguns, and bottles and rocks were thrown as a few other participants joined in.

Participants of the 2024 Morismas de Bracho in Zacatecas — Thousands of participants dress in costumes that range from Roman centurions to members of the French army that invaded Mexico in the 1860s. (Adolfo Vladimir/Cuartoscuro)

The quick reaction of the authorities and more level-headed participants prevented a battle royal from erupting.

The festival takes place in Lomas de Bracho, a town just northeast of the city of Zacatecas, the state capital.

This year’s 200th-anniversary event began with religious ceremonies on Thursday (Aug. 28 is the day commemorating the beheading of John the Baptist).

Thousands of participants dress in costumes that range from Roman centurions to members of the French army that invaded Mexico in the 1860s for three days of battle reenactments, representing the Crusades as well as the Battle of Lepanto.

The day before the unfortunate fracas, Zacatecas Governor David Monreal celebrated the 200th anniversary of the event in a Facebook post, calling Las Morismas de Bracho one of the state’s most important traditions.

“The symbolism and fantastic attendance makes this tribute to St. John the Baptist a fundamental part of our culture and history,” he wrote.

With reports from Imagen Zacatecas, Los Angeles Times and El Sol de Zacatecas

A timeline of classic Mexican tortas, from Cuauhtémoc to Cuba

By

Chris Sands

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September 2, 2024

1

History of the torta — The humble torta. Whether you like it drowned, Cuban, or straight up, we can all agree it is a piece of bakery magic. (Mireya Novo/Cuartoscuro)

México’s distinctive sandwich, the torta, is a comfort food classic. Like many of the nation’s other beloved foods, it has inspired countless regional variations. But the history of the torta begins, at least according to popular lore, with an 11-year-old prodigy. It’s tempting to compare Armando Martínez Centurión to Mozart in his prodigious talents at such a precocious age, but let’s face it: Mozart never created anything as delicious as a torta.

Young Armando began selling “tortas compuestas,” meaning sandwiches with multiple ingredients, in 1892 in Mexico City. The locations have shifted through the years, but remarkably, Torterías Armando is still in business over 130 years later. The first sandwiches were made with telera, an iconic Mexican bread type, filled with well-seasoned fixings ranging from ham, pork loin, and sardines to avocado, chipotle, and cheese.

The place where the magic began back in 1892, when Armando Martínez (allegedly) birthed a national institution. (Tortería Armando/Facebook)

Was Armando really the first tortero? Well, maybe. Baguette-style bread was introduced to México during the 1860s. If you had easily sliced sandwich bread, would you wait nearly 30 years to slap some meat, cheese, and condiments between it? To this point, a “torta compuesta” was mentioned as far back as 1864 in an advertisement in a Puebla-based newspaper, El Pájaro Verde. But Armando certainly opened the first tortería in Mexico City.

How the Bolillo and Telera were created in México

Notably, neither the bolillo nor the telera, now the two most common bread styles used for tortas, originated in Mexico City. Guadalajara and Andalusia, Spain are considered their true birthplaces, respectively. Camille Pirotte, a Belgian baker is the father of the former. He came to México during the Second French Intervention, when the Habsburg Maximilian was installed, briefly, as emperor with consort Carlota. Pirotte was assigned to a battalion in Guadalajara circa 1864, where he pioneered types of baguette bread that could be made without starter yeast. The naturally fermented bolillo and birote, a sourdough version of the torpedo-shaped specialty, are each credited to the intrepid baker, who also became famous for giving out two-day-old bread to the local poor.

Telera, a larger, more rounded bread distinguished by dual score marks across the top, was doubtless influenced by the Andalusian bread of the same name. There, it has been made in rustic fashion since the 17th century. In México, meanwhile, it’s baked with the same wheat-based dough as the bolillo and has been since at least 1871. Although the date of its arrival in Mexico City is unknown, it was in evidence when Armando Martínez made his first tortas in 1892. Today it’s probably best known as a sandwicher of popular Milanesa and Cubana tortas

Drowning in deliciousness – The first “Torta Ahogada”

Given Guadalajara’s lengthy history with the birote, it should come as no surprise that the city is responsible for perhaps the most famous sandwich made from this bread: the torta ahogada, or “drowned torta.” It took about sixty years from Pirotte’s birote breakthrough until someone first decided to pack the bread with pork carnitas and then submerge it in spicy tomato-based salsa for a softened texture and more piquant flavor. This invention during the 1920s is credited to Luis de la Torre, better known as “Güero.” The “drowning” aspect wasn’t planned but rather was the happy result of a torta slipping serendipitously into a salsa-filled container. The customer couldn’t have been happier, and a classic Mexican torta was born.

The Torta Ahogada is the delicious result of a happy accident. (Chris Sands)

To say it soon caught on with the local populace is an understatement. In 2022, the statistics-based government bureau INEGI estimated that over 1,300 businesses in Jalisco were dedicated to this iconic local torta, with the vast majority centered in its historic home of Guadalajara. The proliferation of stands happened gradually. Güero’s son started one, then former employee Ignacio Saldaña another, and so and so on.

Like many Mexican foods, the torta ahogada has a reputation as a hangover cure. The presence of spicy chiles often contributes to such rumors, and it should be noted that ingredients like chile de árbol (a torta ahogada salsa staple), as much as beloved national bread types, distinguish the Mexican sandwich from those made in other nations.

The Torta Cubana and its mysterious origins

Almost all torta history is a mix of legend and fact, and the telera-based Cubana is no exception. For example, if you assume that because former Cuban leader Fidel Castro lived in exile in Mexico City during the 1950s he may have been an inspiration … well, you might be right. One theory of the sandwich’s creation is that Castro was a customer at La Casa del Pavo on Calle de Motolinia, and one day he asked for a sandwich featuring turkey breast, ham, cheese, and other ingredients.

Another theory, meanwhile, credits the Cuban Missile Crisis for the torta’s descriptive moniker. In this one, the creator was Mexico City tortero Leopoldo “Don Polo” Sánchez Preciado. Yet a third posits that the sandwich arose from one of the many torterías on Calle República de Cuba, and had nothing to do with Fidel Castro, Cuban sandwiches, or nuclear brinksmanship.

Torta Cubana is a fusion of turkey, ham and cheese. It might have nothing to do with nuclear war, but then again, it might. (Tortas Don Polo/Facebook)

Nowadays, of course, it’s mostly a moot point. The torta Cubana is popular throughout CDMX and indeed all of México, thanks to its mix of assorted and often variable fillings. Depending on the maker, these may include everything from turkey, pork loin, ham, and milanesa de res to Oaxaca and Chihuahua cheeses, avocado, and cilantro. But if you need a date to place it in context on the torta timeline, it was likely created during the 1950s or ’60s.

Other distinctive regional torta variations

Guadalajara and Mexico City are inextricably linked to torta culture, but so, too, are countless localities where regional sandwich variations have sprung up. There’s the sesame-seeded cemita of Puebla, typically with milanesa de cerdo and cheese; the chorizo-stuffed torta de Malpaso, which originated in Zacatecas roughly contemporaneously with the torta ahogada in Jalisco; the torta de la barda, born in Tampico in the 1920s and now made with ham, shredded beef, queso amarillo, chorizo, refried beans, and avocado … among other tasty ingredients; and the torta de guacamaya from León, Guanajuato, which pairs chicharrón, pico de gallo, and a chile de árbol based salsa with classic bolillo bread.

There are many others, too. But you’ll have to discover those for yourself … if you haven’t already.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Santa Fe station opens as CDMX-Toluca commuter train nears completion

By

MND Staff

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September 2, 2024

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Once completed, the train — known as “El Insurgente” — will connect the Metropolitan Area of Toluca in México state with western Mexico City. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador and President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum inaugurated the Lerma-Santa Fe stretch of the Mexico City-Toluca commuter train on Saturday, 10 years after construction commenced.

The first leg of the journey, which takes passengers from Zinacantepec to Lerma, México state, began operations in September 2023.

The journey between Lerma and Santa Fe is intended to take roughly 20 minutes, compared to the 1.5 hours it can take by car. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)

López Obrador, joined by Sheinbaum and México state Governor Delfina Gómez, embarked on a journey from the Zinacantepec station to the Santa Fe station in Mexico City at 4:40 p.m. on Saturday. The inaugural journey took 50 minutes compared to the 1.5 hours it takes by car.

The Lerma-Santa Fe stretch is the longest segment of the route, spanning 20 kilometers and bringing the total length to 49 out of the planned 57.7 kilometers. The journey between these stations is intended to take roughly 20 minutes at 80 kilometers per hour.

Despite being open to the public, a video shared on social media shows unfinished work at the Santa Fe station.

When will the CDMX-Toluca train be finished?

According to López Obrador, the remaining Section 3 of the commuter train, from the Santa Fe station to the Observatorio station will be completed by the end of 2024, under the government of Claudia Sheinbaum. With the Santa Fe station now open, only two stations remain to be completed.

Once completed, the train known as “El Insurgente,” will connect the Metropolitan Area of Toluca in México state with western Mexico City. It expects to serve 230,000 users per day, spanning a total length of 57.7 kilometers with 7 stations (2 terminals and 5 intermediate terminals).

Inauguramos la estación Santa Fe del Tren El Insurgente que comunica al Estado de México con la Ciudad de México. El tramo de la estación Lerma a la alcaldía Cuajimalpa transportará a más de 200 mil pasajeros al día.

El mayor reconocimiento es para las y los trabajadores de la… pic.twitter.com/A7s7Ao8svO

— Andrés Manuel (@lopezobrador_) September 1, 2024

Where are the train’s stations?

The El Insurgente is comprised of the following stations.

Section 1 is limited to the greater Toluca area. It spans 36 kilometers and features four stations: Zinacantepec, Toluca Centro, Metepec and Lerma.

Section 2 is primarily a 4.6-kilometer tunnel through the Sierra de las Cruces.

Section 3 is a 17-kilometer stretch running through western Mexico City and stopping at three stations: Santa Fe, Álvaro Obregón and Observatorio, with connections to Mexico City’s Metro, the local Metrobús and its passenger bus terminal.

How much will it cost to ride the train?

The transportation system announced an inaugural fare of 60 pesos for the Zinacantepec to Santa Fe trip. The regular price will be 90 pesos.

Fares for the commuter train will depend on users’ starting point and destination. Users can access El Insurgente with the city’s Integrated Mobility Card.

Why has construction of the train been delayed?

Construction on the rail line began in 2014 during Enrique Peña Nieto’s administration. While it was initially expected to be finished in 2017, it has been plagued with delays, including deserted tenders, accidents during construction and budget constraints. Community resistance to parts of the track also created setbacks.

The delays have pushed the train’s cost up 241% from 36 billion pesos (US $1.8 billion) to 123 billion (US $6.21 billion).

With reports from Infobae, La Jornada, El Financiero and Plaza de Armas

7 Mexicans killed in Mississippi highway accident

By

MND Staff

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September 2, 2024

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A night view of the Vicksburg, Mississippi, bridge where seven Mexicans died in a bus accident on Saturday — The Interstate 20 crosses the Mississippi River in Vicksburg. (Justin Wilkens/Unsplash)

Seven Mexicans, including two minors, are dead and dozens are injured after a bus veered off the highway and overturned in the U.S. state of Mississippi.

“On behalf of the Government of Mexico, I extend my most sincere condolences to the families of the seven people of Mexican origin who unfortunately died in a bus accident in Mississippi,” Mexican Foreign Minister Alicia Bárcena posted on her social media.

Bárcena said that the Mexican Consulate in New Orleans will provide “all necessary assistance” to the victims.

The accident occurred on Saturday when a vehicle from Autobuses Regiomontanos overturned while traveling west on Interstate Highway 20 in Vicksburg, Mississippi. Six people were declared dead at the scene and one person died at Merit Health Hospital in Vicksburg, according to the Mississippi Highway Patrol.

Forty-three people were on board the bus including one driver and one co-driver, the National Transportation Safety Board said Sunday. Mexico’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs (SRE) added the bus was heading to Dallas, Texas, from Atlanta, Georgia.

The SRE did not clarify whether the passengers were migrants or tourists. However, Miranda Fernández, a spokeswoman for Autobuses Regiomontanos, told CNN that all passengers go through appropriate immigration controls and must show their passports or visas to enter Mexico or the U.S.

Mississippi: 7 dead, including 6-year-old boy, after charter bus runs off the road | Click on the image to read the full story https://t.co/llCe5PEQZi

— 16 WAPT News (@16WAPTNews) August 31, 2024

The Monterrey-based company transports passengers between Mexico and the U.S., where it has several branches.

In total, 17 of the passengers were Mexican.

None of the victims have been publicly identified, according to CBS News. Warren County coroner Doug Huskey told CBS that two of the victims, a 6-year-old Guatemalan boy and his 16-year-old sister, were identified by their mother. However, the SRE said all seven people who were killed were Mexican.

Officials from the U.S. National Transportation Safety Board, Mississippi Highway Patrol and the Commercial Transportation Enforcement Division are currently investigating the accident.

“The consulate is in contact with the relatives and funeral homes and will continue to closely monitor the development of the investigation into this tragic event,” the SRE said.

A similarly deadly crash occurred in Florida in May, when a drunk driver sideswiped a bus carrying seasonal farm workers north of Orlando. The crash killed 8 Mexican men and left 40 injured.

With reports from Aristegui Noticias, CNN en Español and La Jornada

Celebrate the home of chocolate with your own Mexican ice cream recipe

By

Deborah McCoy

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September 2, 2024

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It's still summer, so why not stay cool with this delicious Mexican chocolate ice cream bar recipe? (Little Sugar Snaps)

Do you remember the rich, sweet-tooth satisfying taste of an ice cream bar covered in a tasty chocolate shell? Well, I do, but have you ever imagined how much better one would taste if you could make it yourself? What if you could make an easy, no-churn ice cream made of incomparable Mexican whipping cream and cover that ice cream in melted Mexican chocolate like none other in the world? Would you do it?

Most people think that the best chocolate comes from European countries like Switzerland or Belgium. In fact, chocolate traces its roots back to Mexico circa 1750 B.C. Science has proven the existence of cacao residue in earthenware cooking pots used by the Olmecs, the Mesoamerican “mother culture.” Other Mesoamerican civilizations, including the Maya and Mexica, used cacao extensively in everything from religious ceremonies to commerce.

Cacao, the raw form of chocolate, originally hails for Mexico, with a history stretching back centuries. (Pablo Merchan Montes/Unsplash)

Unlike the United States or Canada, where chocolate most often appears as sweets — whether candies, cakes, hot chocolate or ice cream — Mexicans take it a step further, adding it to their cooking to give their dishes a rich, distinct, almost bitter flavor, as in the classic mole poblano.

What’s the best Mexican chocolate? Here are a few brands to try:

Ibarra: Famous for their “table chocolate” and for chocolate tablets that are melted to make the famous Mexican hot chocolate.

Ricolino: Known for its candy Bocadín, the most popular chocolate wafters in the country and for Bubu Lubu, a yummy Mexican chocolate bar stuffed with strawberry jelly and marshmallow.

Carlos V: Their chocolate bars are considered the king of Mexican milk chocolate!

Xiocolat: This store’s specialty is chocolate-coated berries and nuts, and their products are preservative-free and use all natural ingredients. Unfortunately, they’re only found in Mexico. Lucky us!

Now onto ice cream bars, either chocolate or vanilla, and covered in either milk chocolate or in dark chocolate with some chopped nuts thrown in, your preference! You will need a digital scale and an ice cream mold for this recipe.

Mexican Chocolate ice cream bars

Ingredients for chocolate ice cream

⅔ cup heavy cream (crema para batir)
⅓ cup sweetened condensed milk (Leche condensada azucarada)
⅓ cup Ibarra Finely Ground Chocolate (Chocolate Ibarra Finamente Molido)

Instructions

Sift cocoa powder into sweetened condensed milk and mix until just combined. Taste and add some sugar to sweeten if preferred.

Whip heavy cream with an electric hand mixer until stiff peaks form.
With a rubber spatula, fold whipped cream into condensed milk and cocoa powder mixture.
With a spoon, fill 4 slots of your ice cream mold. Gently tap the mold onto the kitchen counter a few times so that air bubbles come to the surface.
Press one ice cream stick into each slot. The sticks will come with the mold.
Smooth the top with a spatula.
Place ice-cream mold into the freezer for 6 hours.

Ingredients for vanilla ice cream

1 ½ cups sweetened condensed milk (Leche condensada azucarada)
2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract (Extracto de vainilla)
2 cups (475 ml) heavy cream (Crema para batir)

Instructions

In a large, chilled bowl, mix sweetened condensed milk and vanilla extract.
In another bowl, add cream and using a mixer, beat at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form.
Gently fold the whipped cream into the condensed milk mixture.
Pour into your ice-cream mold and freeze for six hours.

Dark or milk chocolate dipping sauce

Chocolate dipping sauce? Yes please! (Maria Georgieva/Unsplash)

For dark chocolate sauce

1½ cups Ibarra chocolate tablets. These may be a little bitter; add some Carlos V milk chocolate to make it sweeter, if desired. Chop tablets fine so they melt more easily.

For milk chocolate sauce

1½ cups Carlos V milk chocolate
⅓ cups almonds, pecans or walnuts, chopped and roasted. Melt chocolate in the microwave, stirring every 30 seconds, and mix the chopped nuts of your choice into the melted chocolate.

Instructions for dipping ice cream into sauce

Pour melted chocolate into a tall glass.
Unmold frozen ice cream by releasing it from the ice cream mold
Hold the stick and dip ice cream into melted chocolate. Shake the ice cream a few seconds in the chocolate to coat.
Remove the ice cream. The chocolate should set quickly, in about 30 to 60 seconds. Rest on wax paper and store in freezer.

If you enjoyed your Mexican chocolate ice cream bar, why not let us know in the comments down below?

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” via CakeChatter. She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals™ (aa-wp.com).

What’s on this September in San Miguel de Allende

By

Sandra Gancz Kahan

-

September 2, 2024

6

35705851_657364681280246_8802313041090707456_n — Bullfighters, actors, mariachis and fireworks are all on offer this month in San Miguel de Allende. (Plaza de Toros de San Miguel/Facebook)

San Miguel de Allende is one of the most exciting cities in the world — but what can visitors (and residents) look forward to in the coming month? MND Local has collected the very best of the best city in the world, so you never need to miss a minute.

Without further ado — Here’s what’s on in San Miguel de Allende this September:

September 5th – Life and Work of Ignacio Allende

It’s not Hamilton, but it is the story of Mexico’s founding father. (San Miguel Live)

History buffs, this one’s for you! Dive into the dramatic world of Ignacio Allende at the Teatro Angela Peralta as a group of aficionado actors brings the story of this Mexican hero to life. For just 80 pesos, you can brush up on your local history and maybe even shed a patriotic tear or two. Curtain rises at 7 p.m. — don’t be late!

September 7th – National Botanical Gardens Day

Step into El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden and celebrate a day where nature takes center stage! Discover how the gorgeous Jardín Etnobotánico works its magic by protecting regional flora, and explore the wonderful wildflowers, birds, and insects that inhabit this land. Kick off your morning at 9 a.m., with bird-watching for beginners, dive into an ethnobiological exhibit at 10 a.m., and wrap things up with a hands-on linocut workshop at 11 a.m. All activities are free and all you have to do is arrive promptly and sign up!

September 7th – Harvest Festival 2024

Raise a glass to the Harvest Festival at the Santa Catalina Vineyard! Enjoy a day of live music, grape stomping, delicious food, and fun activities for the whole family. Whether you’re an adult (2,900 pesos), a teenager (1,500 pesos), or a kid ages 5 to 12 (900 pesos), there’s something for everyone to sip, stomp, and savor. Come join the vineyard vibes and have a grape day!

September 12th – Candlelight Concert: Vivaldi’s Four Seasons

Candlelight Vivaldi, San Miguel de Allende — As autumn approaches, get a taste of all four seasons at once – by candlelight. (Fever)

Immerse yourself in a magical evening at Live Aqua, where the soft glow of hundreds of candles sets the stage for a truly unique experience. Surrender to the multisensory ambience as candlelight and classical musicians fill the room with a performance of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. The show starts at 7 p.m. and will captivate your senses and stir your soul.

September 14th – Traditional Bullfight with Mariachi

Feel the adrenaline surge as you step into the Plaza de Toros, where the air is thick with anticipation and the music of a live mariachi band. Experience the drama of crowds cheering, capes swirling, and the heart-pounding face-off between man and beast. This event features six fierce bulls from Torreón de Cañas and showcases the masterful artistry of bullfighters Arturo Saldívar, Diego Silveti, and Francisco Martinez. The spectacle begins at 5 p.m. Come witness courage and skill clash with raw power in a duel where only the bravest dare to stand!

September 14th – Cavalcade of the Conspirators

Witness a powerful reenactment of history as the Cabalgata de los Conspiradores arrives at the Plaza Principal, commemorating the brave journey of Ignacio Pérez, “The Messenger of Freedom.” In September 1810, Pérez rode with urgency on the orders of Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, into San Miguel el Grande to notify Ignacio Allende and later the town of Dolores to notify the priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla that the conspiracy to free the nation had been uncovered. Feel the echoes of that pivotal moment in Mexico’s fight for independence as horse riders retrace this legendary route, bringing the spirit of resistance and courage.

September 15th – Grito de Independencia

Celebrate Mexican independence in style. (Atención San Miguel)

Feel the joy of a free nation at the Jardín Principal as we gather to celebrate Mexico’s most cherished national holiday! San Miguel de Allende played a crucial role in the fight for freedom and still honors its native heroes. This city is one of the best places to experience the electrifying energy of the Grito de Independencia. At 11 p.m., you can join thousands of voices led by Mayor Mauricio Trejo shouting “¡Viva México!” An extraordinary fireworks display erupts from the Parroquia and other sites across the city, painting the night sky with a magnificent light show while the streets host a wild fiesta.

September 27th to 29th – La Alborada

Celebrate the soul of San Miguel de Allende at the Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel, a city-wide tribute to its beloved patron saint. The festivities ignite with the Alborada at 4 a.m. in the Plaza Principal, where mariachis play and thousands of fireworks light up the early morning sky, culminating in a chorus of Las Mañanitas at 5 a.m. On Saturday, join the vibrant Entrada de los Xúchiles pilgrimage, where crowds take to the streets with indigenous dances and offerings. The celebration comes to a grand finale on Sunday afternoon with a procession of the saint’s image through the streets, visiting key churches before returning to its parish. It’s a profound moment of connection, where centuries of faith and community come together, leaving an imprint on every heart that beats to the rhythm of San Miguel.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: [email protected]

Which Puerto Vallarta beach club is right for you?

By

Meagan Drillinger

-

September 1, 2024

0

best beach club puerto vallarta — Sun. Sea. Sand. Cocktails. Pools. Parties. There's a beach club for everyone in our guide to Puerto Vallarta. (Táu Beach Club/Facebook)

I’ve spent a lot of time defending Puerto Vallarta as much more than a beach party town — and I stand by that. But it would be foolish to deny that Puerto Vallarta knows how to throw an epic party at any of its many beach clubs. The best beach clubs in Puerto Vallarta are as varied as the travelers who visit them, whether you’re a first-time visitor, a seasoned expat, or someone who just wants to make a splash. I’ve been beach-hopping in town since 2013, so to help you find your perfect match, I’ve rounded up some of the best beach clubs in Puerto Vallarta. Grab your shades, and let’s dive in.

La Palapa: The Classic Charmer

La Palapa beach club Puerto Vallarta — (La Palapa/Tripadvisor)

Best for: First-timers and impressing your out-of-town friends

La Palapa is that charming friend who’s been around forever but still knows how to show you a good time. Opened in 1957, this spot is one of Puerto Vallarta’s original beach clubs, and it’s evolved into a beachfront fine dining experience with serious ambiance. Perfect for when your friends (or parents) come to visit, and you want to give them a taste of the PV high life — complete with toes in the sand and a sunset to die for.

Pro tip: You can spend the afternoon here but it’s better to make reservations for a beachfront dinner around sunset.

Swell Beach Bar: The No-Frills Favorite

Swell beach club Puerto Vallarta — (Gregory312/Tripadvisor)

Best for: Expats and budget-conscious beachgoers.

Swell Beach Bar is where the expats kick back, sip a cold one, and enjoy the simple pleasures of beach life. It’s laid-back, easy on the wallet, and doesn’t come with any of those pesky frills — just good vibes and a great beach view. But be warned: if you decide to upgrade the size of your drink, ask for the price first unless you want a surprise when the bill arrives. They also pack people in like sardines during the high season, so if you are trying to avoid crowds at all, this may not be the club for you.

Pro tip: Swell is perfect for when you want to enjoy a beach day without breaking the bank. Just remember, bigger isn’t always better (unless we’re talking about waves).

Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea: The Iconic LGBTQ+ Hangout

Blue Chairs resort by the sea Puerto Vallarta beach club — (Blue Chairs/Expedia)

Best for: LGBTQ+ travelers and anyone looking to enjoy a vibrant, inclusive atmosphere

Blue Chairs is a Puerto Vallarta institution, known far and wide as the go-to beach club for LGBTQ+ travelers. This spot has been a staple of the Romantic Zone for years, offering everything from lively drag shows to relaxing beachside lounging. Whether you’re looking to make new friends or just enjoy the festive atmosphere, Blue Chairs has you covered. It’s the perfect blend of fun, inclusivity, and that laid-back PV vibe.

Pro tip: Check out the rooftop bar for sunset views and some of the best cocktails in town. It’s a must-visit, whether you’re a regular or a first-time visitor.

Ritmos Beach Café (aka Green Chairs): The Laid-Back LGBTQ+ Favorite

Best for: Casual beachgoers looking for a relaxed LGBTQ+ vibe

Ritmos Beach Café, affectionately known as Green Chairs, is the laid-back cousin of Blue Chairs. This spot is a local and expat favorite for its casual, welcoming atmosphere and prime beachfront location. It’s perfect for those who want to enjoy the beach without the high-energy party scene. Think of it as the perfect spot to unwind, meet new people, and enjoy the simple pleasures of beach life with a dash of LGBTQ+ flair.

Pro tip: It is sandwiched between Blue Chairs and Mantamar, so it’s the perfect home base if you want to pop in and out of the party without having to commit.

Mantamar Beach Club: The Scene-Maker

Best for: Party lovers and those who want to be where the action is

If you’re looking for a beach club with a scene, Mantamar is your place. DJs, pools, and legendary LGBTQ+ parties make this spot the place to see and be seen. It’s basically a nightclub that just so happens to be on the beach — so yes, it’s as fun as it sounds. It’s a little on the pricey side, but hey, can you really put a price on dancing under the stars with a cocktail in hand?

Pro tip: Come ready to mingle, dance, and make memories. Note that if you’re planning to come for any of its big events, like New Year’s Eve or Bear Week, the crowds and prices are going to surge.

El Solar: The Laid-Back Local

Best for: Casual hangouts and sunset chasers

El Solar is the kind of place where you can kick back in a hammock chair with a cold drink and not have a care in the world. It’s my go-to spot when I’m looking for a casual beach meal and it’s always the first place I take visitors for sunset. This spot is more of a restaurant than a beach club, but it’s got enough charm to keep you hanging out all day. The beachfront might be a bit pebbly, but who cares when the food is excellent, the music is always on point, and the vibe is pure Puerto Vallarta cool.

Pro tip: Bring a group of friends, order a table full of delicious dishes, and stay for the sunset. You won’t regret it.

Mangos: The Local Legend

Best for: Laid-back beach days and avoiding the crowds

If you’re looking for a sandy beach with a local vibe, Mangos is your spot. It’s perfect for a chilled-out day by the water without the hustle and bustle of the more touristy areas. The food is great, the beach is sandy, and the vendors are few(er) and far between. It’s the kind of place where you can relax, enjoy the sunshine, and feel like you’ve found a little piece of Puerto Vallarta paradise.

Pro tip: Mangos is ideal for those days when you just want to lay back, enjoy the sound of the waves, and maybe take a nap in the sun. They also have massages on the beach available.

Chicabal Sunset Club: The Glam Squad Hangout

Best for: Singles and groups of friends who want to glam it up

If your idea of a beach day includes water guns full of champagne, thumping bass, and more glam than you can shake a selfie stick at, then Chicabal Sunset Club is where you need to be. This is the place to see and be seen, with a crowd that’s as hot (and knows it). It’s perfect for singles or groups of friends who want to turn up the heat and party like there’s no such thing as a hangover.

Pro tip: Dress to impress, because this crowd is all about the glamour. And remember, what happens at Chicabal… well, you’ll probably post it on Instagram anyway.

Tau Beach Club: The Marina’s Hottest Spot

Best for: Adults-only fun with a luxury twist

Tau Beach Club in the Marina is where the summer party never ends. This adults-only beach club, part of Casa Velas resort, offers Bali beds, sushi, champagne, and a vibe that’s all about indulgence. It’s the perfect spot for those who want to enjoy a hot summer day with all the luxury trimmings.

Pro tip: Arrive early to snag a Bali bed and spend the day lounging in style. Don’t forget to treat yourself to some sushi and champagne — it’s the Tau way.

Casitas Maraika: The Boho Escape

Best for: Boho-chic 20-somethings who’ve outgrown Tulum

For the 20-somethings who once flocked to Tulum and Sayulita until they became too crowded, Casitas Maraika is the perfect boho escape. This spot is all about laid-back luxury with a chic edge. Think stunning beach views, a relaxed vibe, and the option to stay overnight in one of their stylish casitas. It’s the ultimate hideaway for those who want to disconnect from the world and reconnect with nature.

Pro tip: You can only reach the beach club by boat or by jungle hike, so if you’re looking to make a weekend of it you can book one of the bungalows for an overnight stay.

So there you have it — a guide to matching the right Puerto Vallarta beach club with the right traveler. Whichever spot you choose, one thing’s for sure: you’re in for a sun-soaked, unforgettable time in one of Mexico’s most beautiful beach towns. Cheers to that!

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Southern trio

By

Greg Custer

-

September 1, 2024

8

The Santiario de la Virgen de los Remedios, in Cholula, Puebla, one area in the MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Puebla, Morelos and Chiapas. — Sweeping natural vistas, Mexican culture and an enduring sense of magic all characterize the cities featured in today's Where to Live in Mexico guide. (Unsplash)

Getting high is part of this week’s review of three inland Mexican cities and their surroundings as our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide rumbles onward. All three locations sit at over 5,000 feet, with two exceeding 7,000 with a spectacular backdrop of towering volcanoes. We’ll focus on two historic and cultural powerhouses in the states of Morelos and Puebla, before venturing into the Maya heartland in astonishing Chiapas state.

Although none of these locations tend to get much attention on “best places to live” rankings, they are among Mexico’s most impressive destinations. Morelos and its capital, Cuernavaca were once a beacon for Americans living in Mexico, while neighboring Puebla state has been a crossroad for humanity since ancient times. Southerly Chiapas has deep ties to Central American traditions that continue to color its personality. When it comes to overseas living amenities, drawing similarities across settings is not this week’s theme.

This trio will require Spanish language skills, acceptance of urban challenges and a realization the sum of each state is greater than its parts. All three ooze “real Mexico.” It comes at you in ways subtle and profound: pivotal events of Mexican history unfold, side-by-side with the daily realities of some of Mexico’s most stubborn development challenges.

San Cristóbal

You can’t go much further south and still call yourself a “Mexpat” than Chiapas and its second-most-famous cultural touchstone, the city of San Cristóbal de las Casas — I reserve the number one-slot for Mexico’s premier archaeological site, Palenque. San Cristóbal may be more a side trip from your more established Mexico living foothold: a respite from whatever conditions afflict your current Mexican address. It’s a wonderful place to “get away to,” where you can witness centuries-old customs, 16th century Spanish architecture, colorful markets, some tourism-born gentrification and all the ways that Maya civilization endures.

Crisp, woodsmoke-scented air wafts over the city of San Cristóbal. Communities across Chiapas confront environmental violations, inter-community conflict, narco incursions and Mexico’s highest levels of poverty. It’s the country’s poorest state economically but its richest in Indigenous culture and natural resource diversity.

Connections here are dependent on the Tuxtla Gutiérrez International Airport, an hour’s drive away. San Cristóbal spawls across a flat mountain valley with surrounding hillside communities, most of which are impoverished. With a population of 216,000, it still feels like a village. San Cristóbal’s low-slung houses and stone historic buildings, two plazas and green spaces spread across an easy-to-navigate grid of colonial streets. It’s one of Mexico’s most picturesque places, invaded on weekends by Mexico City millennials, Europeans and a smattering of culture-seeking Americans. Coffee lovers will rejoice, and surrounding village day trips and scenic hiking will enrich your weekly calendar.

Living here means getting used to the altitude and cool winter nights, shopping like a local and observing a daily cadence more Guatemalan than Mexican: Chiapas only became part of Mexico in the 1840s. It’s safe at all hours, in addition to being a very walkable town with a low cost of living — you can find furnished home rentals under US $500 per month. You’ll note fewer medical care options, and San Cristóbal’s street vendors are known for their tenacity. And yes, there is jarring poverty to confront in some settings. But living here is inexpensive — $1,500 a month for a couple is very achievable. Cabs are extremely affordable and the whole city can be walked from end to end in under 30 minutes, so you won’t need a car.

Cuernavaca

Morelos state, Mexico’s third smallest, is another of those places bursting with historic, natural and cultural assets packed into a tiny area — Morelos is the country’s 30th smallest state (behind only Tlaxcala and Mexico City itself). Cuernavaca is the state capital, and its temperate climate, proximity to Mexico City and stunning sites — think Las Estacas, Tepoztlán, Xochicalco and the Zempoala lagoons — have drawn famous residents for centuries, from jazz greats Gil Evans and Charles Mingus to film stars like María Félix and Barbara Hutton. The city’s heyday ended in the early 2000s, as crime drove Cuernavaca’s foreign and Mexican elite to seek safer surroundings. This has, happily now mostly changed and Cuernavaca is back on the up once again.

With public safety improvements allowing a comeback, Morelos is compact enough to explore adopting a village and then conveniently access big-city amenities should you need them. You’ll still face some weekend congestion from CDMX, and Cuernavaca’s impossible geography means getting around the city is challenging. Consider coming here first to study Spanish; That’s what I did in 1979, and it changed my life — there’s a highly recommended language school for those looking to immerse themselves in the language.)

In all though, Cuernavaca is reinventing itself as a playground for Mexico City elites who want a green space to retreat to on the weekends, and life here reflects that. As a result, the city is rated a very respectable 4.0. Private schools are setting up shop, and access to a variety of activities — from playing soccer and rugby, to skydiving, to opera and the very enjoyable lakeside town of Tequesquitengo — can all be enjoyed with minimal travel time. Modern shopping is very simple, with a range of big box stores identical to those found in nearby Mexico City and while it lacks an airport, it is ideally located for Mexico living in all its quotidian glory.

Puebla

The city and state of Puebla might be your best choice out of this week’s trio for urban and rural living. Not customarily adopted by foreigners — other than the large German colony of VW and Audi managers — Puebla city lies less than two hours east and south of Mexico City.

Puebla is full of life, movement and memory. A rich Indigenous soul, the legacy of the Spanish Conquest, the memory of Mexico’s most epic battle against French invaders and modern expressions of art, culture and contemporary avant-garde city life make this an excellent choice for the first-time visitor and residents.

Puebla’s irregular, mountainous shape allows it to somehow border seven of Mexico’s most culturally endowed states: Veracruz, Oaxaca, Guerrero, Morelos, México state, Tlaxcala and Hidalgo. A human and cultural corridor for millennia, the Valley of Puebla linked Mexico’s Gulf Coast cultures — including the Olmecs, Mayas and Totonacs — with those of the Mexico highland interior. The state boasts 12 Pueblos Mágicos, 11 climate zones, 217 municipalities, five significant Indigenous populations and an “always with you” backdrop of four towering, snow-capped volcanoes that is breathtaking to behold.

Puebla city is Mexico’s most agreeable urban landscape, home to almost three and a half million, but without the clogging traffic and urban chaos that characterize Mexico City. Its Historic Center — a Unesco World Heritage Site — has hundreds of cataloged historic buildings, English-language interpretive signage, museums, clean streets and ample public parking. The compact downtown is well preserved and conveys a distinctive decorative and architectural impression that sets it apart from other Mexican cities, with the use of Spanish-inspired Talavera tiles as exterior accents.

Puebla is a gastronomic delight for its regional cooking, but note it’s among Mexico’s most socially conservative big cities. Puebla International Airport can get you back to the United States but offers limited domestic flights, so you may rely on a 90-minute journey to the Mexico City airport for domestic air connectivity.

Popular neighborhoods include La Paz, Las Ánimas and the modern Angelópolis, which is close to universities, shopping, modern hotels, hospitals and the International Museum of the Baroque. Nearby Cholula is another viable option.

The biggest question you need to settle before settling here: whether you can live at 7,000 feet. Many older folks can’t, and what a shame to not enjoy a place that literally takes your breath away.

The ratings

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here, including ratings for Yucatán, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, the Baja California peninsula, Jalisco, Pacific trio of beachside cities and three major Bajío metropolitan areas.

Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.

20 cravings you didn’t know you had — and where to satisfy them in Mexico City

By

Monica Belot

-

September 1, 2024

5

Saint Bakery — Bagels, pizzas, kebabs or pancakes - Monica Belot has all of your food cravings covered. (Saint Panadería)

I’ve always been the beneficiary — or victim — of strong cravings, and with them the uncanny (and dangerous) ability to somehow pinpoint exactly what will satisfy them in the moment. As a recent transplant to the gastronomic wonderland known as Mexico City, the cravings have evolved and doubled in their frequency and need for scrumptiousness. Fortunately, in a city where even the most critical gourmand can find their perfect culinary match, satisfying these whims is a delightful treasure hunt.

As a wise fellow foodie once whispered to me over mezcal, “In Mexico City, friend, it’s not actually about the restaurants — it’s about knowing what to order.” In that spirit, consider this your cheat sheet to this author’s favorite coveted treats in the neighborhood; a curated list of 20 cravings you didn’t know you had — and a few you definitely do. From sweet treats to comfort food and beyond, this is your local map to tasty craving satisfaction in CDMX.

Blueberry Bresaola Pizza at Pizzas Nosferatu

It sounds weird, but trust me on this one: this sweet-savory-tangy creation from Pizzas Nosferatu is the kind of uncommon deliciousness your palate didn’t know it needed.
(Eje 2 Sur 24, Condesa)

Pesto at Saint Panaderia

Saint is widely known for their pastries and breads, but it’s less known for its condiment goodies like their gorgeously green and garlicky pesto. I like to throw it on home-cooked pasta with sauteed zucchini or even use it as a marinade for baked salmon.
(General Benjamín Hill 146, Hipódromo)

Shrimp Cocktail at Ciena

Though it seems simple, a perfect shrimp cocktail is hard to come by. Ciena’s shrimp cocktail isn’t just fresh and succulent — it’s a spectator sport. The ambiance and people-watching at Ciena add an extra layer of enjoyment.
(Alfonso Reyes 101, Condesa)

Shrimp Burrito at Balandra

Balandra is the seafood genius introvert of CDMX: understated, often overlooked, but each dish is an adventure into high-quality, oceanic flavor. Their shrimp burrito is a shining example of this tiny spot’s culinary prowess.
(Tonalá 155, Roma Norte)

Pancakes at Quesería de Mí

These giant, fluffy, buttery stacks at Quesería de Mi are arguably some of the best in CDMX. Satisfy your heart — and clog your arteries, we won’t judge — at this under-the-radar-for-gringos breakfast spot.
(Alfonso Reyes 164, Hipódromo)

Flourless Chocolate Cake at Cancino

Cancino’s flourless, not-overly-sweet chocolate cake is a godsend for the gluten-averse and a mind-blowing revelation for everyone else. I like to get it to go, and pair it with fresh strawberries at home while watching “Love is Blind Mexico.”
(Multiple Locations)

Pozole at Santo Pozole

If you haven’t tried pozole before, you must try Santo Pozole’s. If you have tried pozole before, you definitely need to try Santo Pozole’s. Their hearty bowl is incredibly flavorful and generously loaded with tender meat and veggies. Perfect for a chilly evening.
(Río Pánuco 214, Cuauhtémoc)

Banana Bread at Bó Pastisseria

Panqué de platano is a common sighting on the CDMX food scene, but not everyone gets it right. Bó Pastisseria’s panqué de platano is the approachable queen of banana breads. Moist, buttery and available in two varieties: chocolate chip for the hedonists, walnut for the sophisticates.
(Multiple Locations)

Paella at Bulla

If you’re craving a taste of España, the perfect paella can be found at Bulla. With various locations across the city, Bulla’s menu is a love letter to Spain. The paella I dream about is the version with beef steak, flavored with fragrant saffron and rosemary.
(Multiple Locations)

Chopped Liver at Mendl

For my fellow Ashkenazi Jews — or anyone with good taste — Mendl’s chopped liver on lightly toasted, warm challah is like a hug from your bubbe: comforting, slightly mushy and impossible to resist.
(Citlaltépetl 9, Hipódromo)

Indonesian Chicken Skewers at EnAK

EnAK’s tender chicken skewers take you on a scrumptious mouth-voyage to Indonesia, no visa required. The crunchy peanut sauce alone is worth the trip across town to this tiny eatery.
(Río Atoyac 69, Cuauhtémoc)

Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie at Vulevú Bakery

If you’ve ever had the hyped-up Levain Bakery chocolate chip cookies, you’ll know what I’m talking about here. Vulevú Bakery’s chocolate chip walnut cookie is similar: chewy, nutty and generously packed with gooey chocolate chunks. It’s like edible therapy.
(Córdoba 234, Roma Norte)

Bagels at Lepu

Nothing beats an NYC bagel for this former New Yorker — calm down, Montrealers. Bagels Lepu is the best you can get in Mexico City. Whether you’re after a plain, everything or sesame seed bagel, Lepu and its innovative schmears will hit the spot.
(Havre 52, Juárez)

Hot Chocolate at Tout Chocolat

For those chilly moments when you need warming of the tummy and the soul, Tout Chocolat is your go-to. Their high-quality cacao comes in a variety of different percentages, up to 72% cacao content for those who like a more bitter concoction. Don’t forget to add a lightly toasted marshmellow for the ultimate treat.
(Multiple Locations)

Rosetta’s Raisin-Chocolate-Walnut Bread

I know, I know. Rosetta is already on everyone’s radar. But this raisin-chocolate-walnut amalgamation is a lesser-known, must-try of the bakery. It’s breakfast, dessert and snack all rolled into one glorious mini-baguette — the Swiss Army knife of baked goods.
(Multiple Locations)

Oysters at La Docena

La Docena’s oysters are so fresh, you’ll swear you can smell the sea. Perfect for enjoying in a seat at the bar when you’re feeling bougie on a Tuesday afternoon. Order a glass of prosecco if you’re feeling extra bubbly.
(Multiple Locations)

Fried Chicken at Muy Gallito

When you need it, you need it. Muy Gallito’s crispy, juicy fried chicken answers the call. It’s a pleasure that satisfies those deep, crunchy, primal cravings. Whether you go for the classic or something with a spicy kick, you won’t be disappointed.
(Multiple Locations)

Shabu Shabu at Kura

On a rainy or chilly day, nothing hits the spot like a steaming pot of shabu shabu at Kura. This Japanese hot pot dish is not just a meal but an experience– cook your own meat and veggies in two different broth flavors over a fiery portable stove with friends, for this DIY activity.
(Colima 378, Roma Norte)

Shawarma Bowl at La Hummusiya

La Hummusiya’s shawarma is a magic carpet ride for your taste buds. It’s fast, flavorful and so satisfying. Juicy, perfectly seasoned meat is paired with your choice of hummus, salad or roasted veggies. Best for when you’re famished, but also have high standards.
(Av. Tamaulipas 141, Hipódromo)

Yogurt Honey Gelato at Quiero Gelato

Quiero Gelato offers housemade Italian-style gelato in a variety of scrumptious flavors, but the Yogur con Miel flavor is an absolute winner. Tangy marries lightly sweet in a bed of perfectly creamy texture. Enjoy it nestled in a waffle cone while walking along lush Avenida Amsterdam. (Ámsterdam 137, Hipódromo)

Now, the next time your palate demands satisfaction, you know where to turn. At the very least, this is your little black book of flavor, filled with new delights to try. Have you uncovered a divine craving-satisfying treat? Sharing is caring — unless, of course, it’s the last bite. Let us know what your favorites are in the comments below!

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.