Mexican surfer Patricia Ornelas surfs in a traditional embroidered huipil. (Patty Ornelas/Instagram)
Mexican surfer Patricia Ornelas went viral on social media for surfing in a huipil, a traditional blouse or dress worn by Indigenous women in parts of Mexico.
A native of Guerrero on Mexico’s Pacific coast, Ornelas shared a video of herself surfing with an embroidered shirt and a purple skirt.
With over 4 million views on social media platform TikTok, more than 400,000 likes and over 4,200 comments, Ornelas’ video has gone viral.
“Being Mexican makes me proud and makes me feel very privileged to have been born in these lands,” Ornelas wrote in the video’s caption, adding that she represents her culture “with great pride and love” as a passionate surfer. Indeed, most of Ornelas’ videos on her social media accounts feature her surfing. Other videos also show her young daughter Leah following in her footsteps.
However, her use of the traditional huipil is not the first time the Mexican surfer has honored culture through her favorite sport. In November, she dressed up as La Catrina to celebrate Día de Muertos or Day of the Dead. Wearing a black bodysuit with a white skeleton print and an elaborate headband with flowers, Ornelas is seen skillfully surfing the waves.
Patty Ornelas, a “pearl of the sea”
Ornelas shared that the video is part of a project that started in the Philippines called “Pearls of the Sea,” a portrait series by artist Archie Geotina.
While she didn’t give further details about the project, we did a bit of research to find out more.
“Pearls started in a daydream inspired by women, our culture and our relationship with mother nature as we dance and play on her ocean’s faces,” the project’s website reads. “We are born of stardust and molded by the sea.”
Geotina’s project features portraits of women from around the world surfing in traditional clothes. Released in 2021 in the Philippines, it invites viewers to “immerse themselves in the strength, beauty and fierceness of women.”
Mexico's presidential candidates faced each other in the third and final debate on Sunday night. (Cuartoscuro)
Mexico’s three presidential candidates faced off in the third and final debate on Sunday, exactly two weeks before voters go to the polls to elect a successor to President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO).
Insecurity and organized crime was one of the four broad topics considered during the debate, giving the candidates the opportunity to outline their security strategies for a country that has recorded more than 450,000 homicides since former president Felipe Calderón launched a militarized war on drug cartels shortly after he took office in late 2006.
The three candidates, Jorge Álvarez Máynez (MC), Xóchitl Gálvez (PAN-PRI-PRD) and Claudia Sheinbaum (Morena-PT-PVEM) faced off for their third and final debate on Sunday. (Screen capture)
Claudia Sheinbaum, the ruling Morena party candidate and clear frontrunner, Xóchitl Gálvez of the three-party opposition alliance Strength and Heart for Mexico and Jorge Álvarez Máynez of the minor Citizens Movement (MC) party also faced questions in the areas of social policy; migration and foreign policy; and democracy, pluralism and division of powers.
As was the case in the previous debates on April 7 and April 28, Sunday night’s encounter was punctuated by accusations and personal attacks. Gálvez was particularly relentless in her pursuit of Sheinbaum, directing 24 attacks at the leading candidate, according to a count by the El Universal newspaper.
A “flash poll” conducted for the El País newspaper found that 49% of 512 respondents declared Sheinbaum the winner, while 26% asserted that Gálvez was the victor. Just under one in five of those polled — 18% — said that Álvarez Máynez came out on top.
Insecurity and organized crime
Gálvez, a former senator and ex-mayor of the Mexico City borough of Miguel Hidalgo, declared that the current security strategy — the so-called “hugs, not bullets” approach — has been a “failure” and accused the federal government of handing control of the country to organized crime.
Xóchitl Gálvez went on the offensive the most in the debate, launching 24 attacks against the frontrunner, Claudia Sheinbaum. FOTO: MARIO JASSO/CUARTOSCURO.COM
Since López Obrador took office in late 2018, there have been 186,000 murders and 50,000 people have disappeared, said the candidate for the National Action Party (PAN), the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD).
“I propose a new security strategy. Hugs for criminals are over. The National Guard will have a civilian command. The armed forces will only focus on what the constitution establishes — national security. We’re going to strengthen state and municipal police, paying them well and certifying them. [Security] technology in every neighborhood. The greatest investment [ever] in culture, in sports and in public spaces. But, above all, you will have a president with the character to combat criminals,” Gálvez said.
For her part, Sheinbaum committed to continuing the current security strategy, highlighting that a government she leads would — as López Obrador says his administration has done — address the root causes of crime and violence, such as poverty and lack of opportunity, with social programs such as the Youths Building the Future and Sowing Life employment schemes. She also pledged to strengthen the National Guard, a security force that was created by the current government and placed under military control until the Supreme Court ruled that that move was unconstitutional.
Sheinbaum, mayor of Mexico City until last June, touted her security record in the capital as she attempted to demonstrate that she is best placed to combat the violent crime that plagues parts of Mexico. She also noted that national homicide numbers have trended down during López Obrador’s administration, although the president’s six-year term will still go down as the most violent on record.
Claudia Sheinbaum presented statistics on crime reductions in Mexico City during her tenure as mayor, and said she would continue to address the “root causes” of crime. (MARIO JASSO/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Sheinbaum said that AMLO, her political mentor, replaced a strategy of “declaring war to build peace” for one of “attention to the causes” of violence and “zero impunity.”
Homicide numbers are still high, the Morena candidate acknowledged, but “the important thing” is that they have started coming down.
Álvarez Máynez, a former federal deputy who is in a distant third place in the polls, also committed to moving away from the use of the military for public security tasks.
Mexico needs a strategy which allows for the creation of “competent” civilian police forces, said the candidate, who claimed that the MC is the only party that doesn’t receive funding from organized crime.
“For that reason, we have the autonomy to speak about [insecurity] with freedom,” Álvarez Máynez said.
Other proposals and remarks
Social policy
While López Obrador and Morena have ample support among Mexico’s most disadvantaged citizens, Gálvez accused the government of “abandoning” Mexico’s poorest people as well as the country’s Indigenous groups, small-scale farmers, fishermen and working women.
The opposition candidate has long refuted claims that she would eliminate government social programs if elected president, and on Sunday pledged to “improve” them and introduce new ones.
“The seniors pension will begin at 60. The scholarship for children and young people will be universal. We will create 20,000 child care centers and 100,000 full-time schools,” Gálvez said.
Gálvez said she will establish 100,000 full-time schools as part of her expansion of education and social programs.(Cuartoscuro)
“With the new Seguro Popular [universal health care scheme] there will be [free medical] treatment and medications. But above all I commit to ending extreme poverty,” she said, pledging to lift 9 million people out of that situation.
“For us, social policy means wellbeing and happiness for people. We’re recovering rights and broadening them,” she said, speaking of things such as education and health care.
Previous PRI and PAN governments turned such rights into “commodities” and “privileges,” Sheinbaum said.
“We’re the only ones who can maintain the social programs,” added the Morena candidate.
“We’re the only ones that have implemented them, and we do it out of conviction, not out of convenience.”
Máynez said his government would increase the minimum wage to 10,000 pesos a month, and would also implement 40-hour work week legislation. (Cuartoscuro)
Máynez reiterated his commitment to making Mexico’s children a priority for a government he leads. The nation’s children, he said, suffer the effects of poverty and discrimination more than any other sector of society.
“That’s why we’re going to promote a new policy of attention … to generate equality of opportunities [for children],” he said.
The MC candidate also reiterated his commitment to a minimum salary of 10,000 pesos (US $600) per month and a 40-hour work week.
Migration and foreign policy
Gálvez said that her foreign policy would have “two compasses,” explaining that the first would be her “values, respect for human rights and freedoms [and] protection of migrants.”
The second would be “a map,” she said.
“We have 3,200 kilometers of border with the United States — it’s our trade ally. We’re the link between North and South America. We have an important geographic position between Europe and Asia and therefore Mexico has everything [required] to take advantage of international trade,” she said.
Many migrants transit through Tapachula, Chiapas near Mexico’s southern border on their way to the United States. (DAMIÁN SÁNCHEZ/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
With regard to migration — specifically the use of Mexico as a transit country by large numbers of people seeking to reach the United States — the opposition candidate pledged to “establish order at the southern border,” where most migrants first enter the country.
The border with Guatemala is currently “in the hands of criminals,” Gálvez said. “Today criminals control migration and that is very serious.”
Gálvez also said that a government she leads would “demand a regularization program” for Mexican migrants in the United States.
She also highlighted the opportunity Mexico has to benefit from nearshoring.
To attract foreign companies in sectors including semiconductors, electric vehicles and aerospace, “we have to do the work,” Gálvez said.
“This government hasn’t done it and isn’t going to do it because the first thing that is needed is the rule of law. … Secondly, clean and cheap energy is needed, … water is needed, … education, science and technology is needed, … infrastructure is needed, … security is also needed,” she said.
Sheinbaum highlighted AMLO’s infrastructure projects in the south and said she would expand them as the “best way” to hire migrants. (Lopezobrador.org.mx)
For her part, Sheinbaum committed herself to Mexico’s constitutionally-enshrined foreign policy principle of “non-intervention” in the affairs of other countries, and emphasized the need to address the causes of migration.
“We have to strengthen the relationship with the United States and Canada, we have a free trade agreement … but as [Uruguayan writer] Mario Benedetti says, the south also exists and that’s why we’re going to continue broadening relations with Latin America and the Caribbean,” said the Morena candidate, echoing remarks previously made by AMLO.
“… And of course, we will be a country that is open to the world,” she added.
Later in the segment on migration and foreign policy, Sheinbaum spoke about establishing a “development hub” in the southern border region. She also said that the current government’s signature railroad projects — the Maya Train and the modernized line across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec — could be extended to the southern border and even into Central America.
“That’s the best way to offer work to migrants,” she said.
Having heard Gálvez’s criticism of the government for allegedly not taking advantage of the nearshoring opportunity, Sheinbaum noted that foreign investment has reached record levels during the current government.
“Of course we’re open to investment, but investment with wellbeing, not the kind of investment that previous governments boasted about – ‘come and invest in Mexico because there are salaries of hunger here, cheap labor.’ No, that’s over,” she said.
“Now we’re defending Mexican workers and private investment,” Sheinbaum said.
Personal attacks and responses
Gálvez, as mentioned earlier, was relentless in her attacks on Sheinbaum. She repeatedly referred to the frontrunner as “the candidate of lies” and repeated her claim that she is a “narco-candidate” for a “narco-party.”
Sheinbaum made far fewer direct attacks on Gálvez, but frequently referred to her as “the candidate of the PRIAN,” a derogatory acronym for the PRI and the PAN that has implicit connotations of corruption.
Outlined below are two of the attacks the PAN-PRI-PRD candidate made on her main rival, and the responses of the ruling party aspirant.
“In the previous debate, I called Claudia Sheinbaum a narco-candidate and that caused a lot of controversy,” Gálvez said. “I want to explain to millions of Mexicans why I did it. This is not a nickname nor an insult, but rather a description of facts.”
Gálvez cited a book by journalist Anabel Hernández (La historia secreta), as “clearly saying” that Sheinbaum and Omar García Harfuch, who served as the Morena candidate’s security minister in Mexico City, received “bribes” and “drugs” from organized crime.
Sheinbaum dismissed “the sources for that book” as not credible, and suggested Gálvez would find more accurate information in works of science fiction.
“Why doesn’t she read Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451, or the Martian Chronicles?” she said.
Gálvez also took aim at Sheinbaum, who has a Jewish background, for once wearing a skirt featuring the image the Virgin of Guadalupe, who is widely revered in Mexico.
The opposition candidate asked her rival — who says she is not religious but is “a woman of faith and science” — whether she had told the Pope in her recent meeting with him that she had worn the skirt even though “you don’t believe in her or in God.”
“… You have every right to not believe in God, that’s a personal issue. What you don’t have a right to is to use the faith of Mexicans as political opportunism. That is hypocrisy,” Gálvez charged.
Gálvez accused Sheinbaum of hyprocrisy, holding up a photo of her rival wearing a skirt with an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe. (Screen capture)
Sheinbaum described her opponent’s remark as a deliberate “provocation” and declined to comment on her use of the Virgin of Guadalupe skirt.
Earlier in the debate, the Morena candidate said that the Mexican people “don’t deserve a presidential debate full of slander and lies.”
“That reflects the absence of [a political] project,” she said.
Mexico's next president in office must face the country's ever more brazen — and politically motivated— criminal actors, says analyst Stephen Woodman. (Genaro Natera/Cuartoscuro)
Criminal gangs have multiplied during the current presidential administration in Mexico, corrupting local democracies, tightening their grip on the economy and creating a security crisis.
Claudia Sheinbaum, the leading candidate ahead of the June 2 elections, would undoubtedly face ever more brazen — and politically motivated — criminal actors if she becomes Mexico’s next president.
Since the election of President Andrés Manuel López Obrador in 2018, organized crime has ramped up efforts to strong-arm the state. Favored tactics include road blockades, banners threatening officials and the dumping of human remains outside government buildings.
Political assassinations are the most direct line of attack. The current campaign season is shaping up to be the deadliest on record, according to data from the Mexican think tank Laboratorio Electoral. Since the official start of the electoral season on September 7th, 2023 until the publication of this piece, 30 political aspirants and candidates have been slain in Mexico. Hundreds have withdrawn from the race (358 candidates in Zacatecas and another 190 candidates in Michoacán) — while an unknown quantity chose not to risk running at all.
Organized crime groups were likely behind most of these killings. As politicians across the country hit the campaign trail, gangs launched their own violent bids for increased protection and influence.
Criminals are also desperate to collaborate with politicians. Gangs have little chance of survival unless they can secure under-the-table deals with mayors and turf pacts with police. Illegal campaign financing is an ongoing concern. In troubled regions, criminal groups even field their own candidates.
Alongside the growing threat of “narco politics,” the new Mexican president will also have to shield the economy from the worst impacts of criminality. In recent years, gangs have diversified beyond drug trafficking. Illicit activities such as cargo theft and counterfeiting are a mounting problem for the private sector.
Extortion is an even greater menace to businesses. Criminal groups historically demanded payments from small-scale vendors, such as market workers or chicken shop owners. Today, they routinely fix prices by forcing family-owned businesses to buy products at inflated costs from suppliers they have compromised; for instance, fruit or poultry farms. Business leaders say gangs in at least 10 Mexican states are even banning the sale of products from companies outside their extortion rackets.
Nor is this crisis contained. Security challenges in Mexico have consequences that cross borders. Gangs threaten regional supply chains and forcibly displace communities, fueling undocumented migration. Criminal fragmentation also risks creating new entrants into the fentanyl market. That shift could deepen the opioid overdose crisis in the United States, as inexperienced cooks inaccurately measure substances.
Sheinbaum, the candidate for the ruling National Regeneration Movement (Morena) party, is keen to downplay this situation. The heavy favorite for the presidency, Sheinbaum has already backed the non-confrontational approach of President López Obrador. She also plans to double down on the militarization of public security. As well as spending heavily on the army, Sheinbaum hopes to complete the transfer of the National Guard, Mexico’s main federal law enforcement agency, from civilian to military control, which has been halted by the Supreme Court. But neither the army nor the National Guard have proven effective in tackling criminal networks. Both forces have also been accused of widespread human rights abuses.
Despite these failings, the leading candidate has outlined some policies that could prove effective. Sheinbaum hopes to strengthen Mexico’s intelligence agency and create a national crime database. She also wants to classify extortion as a serious crime.
But the next administration will face security challenges of an unprecedented scale. Turning a blind eye to the crisis is unlikely to remain an option. The widespread use of shock and awe tactics by Mexican mafias, criminal infiltration into politics and the economic impact of extortion will demand a response from the new president. That emergency will heighten calls to strengthen investigative capacities and counter the outrageous impunity that persists across Mexico.
Greater cooperation with U.S. security agencies is also essential. Both countries need to scrutinize suspicious financial activity and crack down on weapons trafficking. To be truly effective, Mexico’s next president must work from an understanding that insecurity in Mexico is part of a shared crisis with the United States.
Stephen Woodman is the associate director of Advanced Intelligence Solutions (AIS), a consultancy that works with government agencies and corporations to identify and mitigate security risks across Latin America. Based in Guadalajara, Mexico, he primarily investigates organized crime. Woodman was formerly a journalist, covering security and human rights in Mexico. His investigative features have been published by the Financial Times, BBC News and Reuters, among other outlets.
Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of Mexico News Daily, its owner or its employees.
This week's heat wave will most affect Mexico's northern, southwestern and southern states. (Juan Ortega Solís/Cuartoscuro)
Monday marks the first day of another heat wave in Mexico, which is forecast to bring temperatures above 45 degrees Celsius in some parts of the country.
According to Mexico’s National Meteorological Service (SMN), the states most affected by the year’s third heat wave will be Baja California Sur, Campeche, Coahuila, Guerrero, Michoacán, Nuevo León, San Luis Potosí, Sinaloa, Sonora, Tabasco, Tamaulipas, Veracruz and Yucatán. These states could see temperatures surpass 45 C.
Meanwhile, Baja California, Chiapas, Chihuahua, Colima, Durango, northern Hidalgo, Jalisco, Morelos, Nayarit, Oaxaca, Puebla and Quintana Roo will see temperatures ranging between 40 and 45 C.
Aguascalientes, southwest México state, Guanajuato, Querétaro and Zacatecas will see temperatures hover between 35 and 40 C. Only Mexico City and Tlaxcala will escape the highest temps — those states will see maximums between 30 and 35 C.
This season’s heat waves have brought record temperatures across the country. During Mexico’s second heat wave earlier this month, the highest temperature registered nationwide was 49.6 C, in Gallinas, San Luis Potosí. Ten cities nationwide broke their highest temperature records on May 9, and there have been at least a dozen heat-related deaths.
Due to the scorching temperatures, officials have warned residents to avoid prolonged exposure and to stay hydrated, paying special attention to chronically ill people, children and older adults.
However, some regions will get some relief with rainfall in the forecast this week.
Heavy rains are expected in Chiapas and Oaxaca, while scattered showers are forecast in Guerrero, Michoacán, Morelos and Zacatecas. Aguascalientes could see isolated rainfall, as well as Baja California, Campeche, Mexico City, Coahuila, Durango, State of México, Guanajuato, Jalisco, Puebla, Quintana Roo, San Luis Potosí, Tabasco, Veracruz and Yucatán.
Strong winds are also in the forecast for some regions.
Campeche and Yucatán will see gusts ranging between 60 to 80 km/h with dust devils likely on the coasts. Dust devils are also expected to appear in northern and central states.
According to the SMN, between 2017 and 2023, the earliest heat wave arrived in February while the latest occurred in June. The months of April and May registered peak heat wave activity: 71.4% of the heat waves in Mexico occurred during these two spring months.
Customers looking to buy bags of ice were turned away from convenience stores in parts of central Mexico. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)
As Mexicans prepare to sweat through the third heat wave of the year, the ubiquitous Oxxo convenience store chain began limiting sales of bags of ice.
Over the weekend, Oxxo — with more than 20,000 stores in Mexico — announced it was limiting customers in Mexico City to three bags of ice per person due to increased demand.
The policy may soon apply in other cities of Mexico as a third heat wave begins this week. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)
The decision came after a significant rise in social media complaints about the lack of ice and other items such as beer and soft drinks at Oxxo stores.
“[The policy] aims to allow a greater number of people the opportunity to buy [bags of ice],” Oxxo’s parent company Femsa said while acknowledging that the policy might be applied in other cities across the nation.
Shops and distributors in several cities had to turn away customers looking for ice this past weekend as supplies ran out.
The México-state newspaper El Sol de Toluca reported that a long line of delivery trucks idling outside one local ice distributor at 7 a.m. on Saturday were eventually told no ice would be available. An employee of the distributorship said customers were traveling to Toluca from Mexico City, which is 64 kilometers away.
The National Meteorological Service (SMN) announced that, beginning Monday, temperatures above 40 C will accompany the latest heat wave.
Mexico City’s water scarcity issue also complicated the situation thanks to rising demand for flavored waters and iced beverages, the newspaper La Jornada reported. Over the weekend, some cafés and restaurants had to repeatedly send employees on lengthy searches for ice.
Becoming a digital nomad is an exciting first step - but the art of working remotely involves time and patience. (Austin Distel/Unsplash)
“Time isn’t the main thing; it’s the only thing,” Miles Davis once said. This is my favorite type of quote: no fat to trim, no nonsense. There’s a stoic quality to it. I’ve been thinking about time lately, especially when it comes to deciding the right tempo for travel. I know the term digital nomad can be cringy but it certainly captures the spirit of the new world we find ourselves in, and there’s a newer term that caught my attention: Digital slowmad.
Slowmading is a deliberate and conscious approach to the digital nomad lifestyle. It offers a wealth of advantages that can significantly enhance both professional success and personal fulfillment. In a world often characterized by speed and constant motion, embracing the principles of slowmading can lead to a more meaningful and enriching existence during your travels, focusing on what my favorite jazz musician says is, at the end of the day, the only thing.
While many think of being a digital nomind in Mexico as spending days at sites like Chichén Itzá, there can be much more to it than that. (Martín Zetina/Cuartoscuro)
Why choose the slomad lifestyle?
Forge connections
One of the most significant benefits of slowmading is the opportunity to forge deeper connections with the places digital nomads visit. Instead of rushing from one location to the next in a whirlwind of activity, slowmads take the time to truly immerse themselves in the local culture, customs and way of life. This deeper engagement allows for a more authentic and profound travel experience, fostering a sense of belonging and connection that transcends mere tourism. By building relationships with locals, participating in community events and exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations, slowmads gain a richer understanding of the world around them.
Enjoy a work-life balance
Moreover, embracing a slower pace enables digital nomads to establish a more sustainable work-life balance. In a culture that often glorifies hustle and productivity, slowmading prioritizes well-being and fulfillment over constant busyness. By allowing themselves the luxury of time, slowmads can pursue activities that nourish their souls, whether it’s practicing yoga, hiking in nature or trying out a new recipe shared with friends. This intentional focus on self-care and relaxation not only reduces stress and burnout but also enhances overall happiness and satisfaction with the nomadic lifestyle.
“Life is very short and anxious for those who forget the past, neglect the present and fear the future,” claimed Roman philosopher Seneca. This is another no-nonsense quote that reminds me of the travelers who schedule their journey down to the half hour time blocks. I’d like to make the argument to schedule with day blocks instead. Slowing down encourages digital nomads to cultivate a deeper sense of presence and mindfulness in their daily lives. Instead of constantly living in the future, chasing the next destination or project, slowmads learn to appreciate the beauty and richness of the present moment. This mindfulness not only enhances their enjoyment of life but also fosters greater resilience and emotional well-being in the face of challenges.
Which cities are best for slomads?
Mexico offers a myriad of towns that are ideal for embracing the slowmad lifestyle, each with its own unique charm and character. One such gem is San Miguel de Allende, known for its cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and vibrant art scene. Here, digital nomads can immerse themselves in the local culture and connect with fellow travelers and expats.
Relaxation and appreciation are key to life as a slowmad and immersion in local life and culture is a must. (Tulum Circle)
Mazatlán beckons slowmads with its tranquil beaches and rich cultural heritage. Nestled on Mexico’s Pacific coast, this vibrant city offers a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration. Here, slowmads can be immersed in local life, savor fresh seafood and unwind amidst breathtaking sunsets.
Another enchanting destination is Tulum, famous for its pristine beaches and ancient ruins. Surrounded by lush jungle and crystal-clear waters, Tulum offers the perfect backdrop for relaxation and introspection. Digital nomads can indulge in healthy cuisine, go for a dip in a cenote and make some new friends on a beach-side coworking spot.
For those seeking a quieter retreat, Valle de Bravo provides a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Nestled amidst pine forests and overlooking a picturesque lake, Valle de Bravo offers opportunities for hiking, sailing and birdwatching. Here, digital nomads can recharge their batteries and reconnect with nature in a serene and peaceful setting.
Remember to take your time and have fun!
No matter where you choose, Mexico offers endless possibilities for embracing the slowmading lifestyle and experiencing the beauty of life at a leisurely pace. Instead of trying to pack your itinerary to the brim, ask yourself: why am I traveling? What do I want to achieve? Travel like a stoic, with a deliberate tempo. “Nothing great is created suddenly, any more than a bunch of grapes or a fig,” said the Greek philosopher Epictetus. “If you tell me that you desire a fig, I answer you that there must be time. Let it first blossom, then bear fruit, then ripen.”
Stephen Randall has lived in Mexico since 2018 by way of Kentucky, and before that, Germany. He’s an enthusiastic amateur chef who takes inspiration from many different cuisines, with favorites including Mexican and Mediterranean.
“Tlaxcala?’ a fellow expat asked me. “It’s in Puebla, right?”
No, actually. Tlaxcala is a state, the smallest in Mexico, Puebla’s neighbor. Tlaxcala is also the name of this tiny state’s capital city.
Mexico’s smallest state still has a lot to offer visitors. (Wikimedia Commons)
But my friend’s ignorance is common. The eponymous capital attracts so few tourists, domestic or international, that its official self-effacing motto is, Tlaxcala: ¡Sí! Existe! (Yes, it exists!)
My husband and I might never have visited the city were it not for a friend who regularly hikes up nearby La Malinche, Mexico’s fifth highest peak, to train for even higher peaks in the Himalayas and the Andes. The volcano is a nontechnical climb that anyone in reasonable shape should be able to do, so as veteran hikers and backpackers, Barry and I were game.
A few minutes from the trailhead, we met a mom from Puebla and her two adult children on the path.
“Are you going to the top?” she asked us.
Summiting La Malinche is a tough climb that promises a panoramic view of Tlaxcala and neighbouring states – if you can make it to the top. (Barry Evans)
Well, duh, I thought. When have we ever not summited?
But I didn’t want to be rude, and, besides, I don’t know how to express “duh” in Spanish, so I simply said, “Yes, we are.”
Barry and I hiked along a shady, gently rising forest path for a couple of hours. It wasn’t too steep, though I could tell by my labored breathing that we were already at 11,000 feet. Then we reached an open area where we could see the nearby peak of Orizaba, and up ahead, a scramble of boulders. It was hard going, so we took a break at the start of the boulders. I carried on a few paces and rounded a bend to see how the trail looked. Rocky, uneven and steep.
We sat there in silence, neither of us wanting to be the first to say it. We were at 14,000’, with only another 400’ to climb, probably a half hour, but I was no longer enjoying myself. Plus the downhill was still to come, which I was already dreading. My only motivation for reaching the top was sheer ego. Not exactly the best reason.
Finally Barry said, “I guess my lungs at 81 are not what they were at 41.” So with a sense of mixed relief and regret, we agreed to turn around and head back to Tlaxcala. ¡Asíes! And of course we would run into the Puebla mom and had to admit we hadn’t reached the top.
While not a UNESCO World Heritage site, the easy charm of Tlaxcala is hard to ignore. (Tlaxcalita)
But the visit to Tlaxcala was not wasted. Because despite the city’s “There’s nothing there” reputation, we found plenty to keep us engaged.
Tlaxcala is not a UNESCO World Heritage site, as is nearby Puebla’s cuadro histórico (historical quarter), nor is it a pueblo mágico. But that’s exactly why we liked it. Its lack of stand-out features turn into a strength. The town isn’t crowded with tourists or cars; in fact, the traffic feels like how most cities felt thirty years ago. Here are eight things we liked about it.
The central square. Plaza de Constitución is shady and spacious, the perfect place to sit on a bench and people-watch. Visiting from semi-desert Guanajuato, the number of shade trees made me very happy.
The Cathedral, with a cobbled roof and large bell tower, was built in 1524 and is one of the first Catholic monuments on the American continent.
Weather. Because of Tlaxcala’s higher elevation (7,300’), it’s cooler than most cities in central Mexico.
Accessible churches. Although I’m not especially religious, I love old, ornate, musty churches. I watch the women sweeping the tile floors and the people here and there sitting on pews praying. I find simply being in the presence of faith, even if it is not my own, deeply moving. Unlike in Guanajuato, where many of the churches are closed except during Mass, in Tlaxcala, the churches remain open.
Topography: Tlaxcala has both flat streets and hills. A couple of times we climbed the very pretty, gently hilly tree-lined street just off the Plaza to one of Mexico’s oldest monasteries, the Ex Convento Franciscano de la Asunción, built around 1540, whose main nave of the church has a beautiful Moorish-style wooden ceiling.
The Market. This bustling weekend tianguis is known for selling sarapes, woven in the villages of the state.
Nearby Ruins. We visited Cacaxtla, sheltered under a huge metal roof, with its well preserved pre-Columbian frescoes of jaguar and eagle warriors in battle. Nearby Xochitecatl, built between 1000 and 800 BCE, has a wide pyramid and circular pyramid. At one time you could walk the mile-long paved path that connected the two ruins. Unfortunately, the path is no longer open because about eight years ago a visitor who was walking it had a heat stroke.
Tizatlán Botanical Garden This enormous botanical garden is divided into seven sections that include subaquatic vegetation and a sub-humid temperate climate. I especially loved the moist, misty greenhouse. As we strolled along a winding concrete path with benches, the whole place to ourselves, I felt a bit stoned and like my eyes were dilated.
The quiet and pleasant gardens make walking around Tlaxcala a pleasure. (Barry Evans)
We stayed right on the plaza, at the Hotel San Francisco, the best hotel I’ve stayed in for years, thanks to its enormous pool, not one of those tiny tadpole pools most hotels offer. With a generous buffet breakfast included, it was about $70/night for two of us
The city is an easy two-hour bus ride on ATAH bus from Mexico City’s TAPA bus station.
Tlaxcala isn’t dramatic, but for a relaxed, unhurried few days, it’s the perfect destination. And while I’ve accepted the fact that La Malinche is not a peak I’ll ever claim, I’ll go back to Tlaxcala in a heartbeat.
Louisa Rogers and her husband Barry Evans divide their lives between Guanajuato and Eureka, on California’s North Coast. Louisa writes articles and essays about expat life, Mexico, travel, physical and psychological health, retirement and spirituality. Her recent articles are on her website, https://authory.com/LouisaRogers
Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek analyzes how increased labor (and other) costs have put pressure on businesses in Mexico, making services more expensive and potentially, less valuable to customers. (Cuartoscuro)
As I have written about previously, Mexico is getting more expensive (particularly some parts), and businesses in Mexico are facing a delicate balance right now between labor costs and labor productivity, as they have seen their costs skyrocket over the past few years.
Of course conceptually, the idea of workers making more money is a good thing — especially in certain parts of Mexico and certain industries that have historically had very low wages.
However, in reality, things are not quite that simple for businesses. It is critical for the increased wages to be accompanied by increased labor productivity. Not getting this balance right results in a workforce that ultimately is not cost-competitive or worse still, in a diminished product or service offered to customers.
In some industries, I have seen encouraging signs of getting it right. Examples include many advanced manufacturing industries like automotive, auto parts, aerospace, and medical devices that are investing in both technology and training to improve the productivity of their workers. I am also optimistic about the investments of productivity enabling companies like Amazon Web Services and Microsoft in Mexico that bring technologies and training to many professional services workers across large and small businesses.
Where I see a concerning trend playing out is with more basic service (think restaurants, hotels, stores) and construction industry workers. Many employers in these sectors in the past have not invested much in technology and training of their workers quite simply because they didn’t need to. Labor was cheap and plentiful and so it was more profitable to have low-cost unskilled workers, than invest in training and technology to improve worker productivity. This is no longer the case, and unfortunately as a result, I am increasingly seeing companies cut back on their work force to save costs. If this is not done in a thoughtful manner, it can result in a lower quality of service being delivered. Let me share an example.
Just this past week I was in Tulum for a few days. Prices there for many goods and services have increased dramatically from where they were historically, and now even relative to many parts of the United States. I increasingly saw businesses that had reduced their labor headcount in an effort to reduce costs. Restaurants, hotels, stores, pretty much everywhere I went, all had fewer employees than there would have been in the past.
Fewer employees that were dedicated to serve customers, keep things clean, do routine maintenance and make for an enjoyable customer experience. The reduced value versus the cost of what I was paying for was painfully apparent — and many of the employees I saw seemed overworked, frustrated and under-trained.
This could create a big problem for these businesses.
If customers don’t perceive value in what they are paying for, they aren’t satisfied and often won’t come back. Think about when you have had a bad restaurant experience somewhere — the odds of you returning go down dramatically.
This isn’t just a “Mexico” or “Tulum” problem. For example, recently Starbucks Inc released sales and profit results globally for the first quarter of the year that hugely disappointed investors. The CEO, on a painful earnings call, explained that they “did a poor job providing value to their customers, and as a result, customer visits were down.”
In other words, they probably raised their prices too much without also raising the customer value by an equal amount. It is critical for a business to get this balance right or they will likely lose customers, sales and profits.
The reaction to this problem is often further cutting costs, which only exacerbates the problem. In defense of business owners, the cost increases have increased so quickly that the problem is not easy to solve. However, it is precisely those businesses that invest in their employees through training and technology, even in relatively low-technology industries, that will survive and thrive.
As I was leaving the Riviera Maya area on our way to the airport, I passed an employee shuttle of the Belmond Maroma hotel on the highway. The employee shuttle was one of the nicest I have ever seen — unlike many employee shuttles throughout Mexico — and clearly was an example of the investment the company is making in their employees.
The shuttle had a slogan written in English, Spanish and Mayan on it: “Our employees are the heart of our company.”
More companies in Mexico will need to start thinking and acting similarly if they are going to survive in these increasingly complicated times.
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.
When you think of Mexican wine, Aguascalientes may not be the first state that jumps to mind - but the region is rich in outstanding vineyards. (Viñedos Santa Elena)
As I wandered through rows of bushy green grape vines, whose perfect lines created a direct view towards a jagged spine of mountains in the distance, I had to pause to remember where I was. Fat clumps of purply-black grapes hung heavily from the branches. The faint sound of music echoed from the open-air patio of the winery’s main building — an industrial-chic, charcoal-colored structure with soaring ceilings and lovely views. Strings of Edison bulb lights dangled above rustic tables made out of wooden beams and barrels, while the earthy, wet smell of fermenting wine permeated throughout the dark, stony interior of the cave.
This wasn’t a hipster winery in Napa, nor was it even one in Valle de Guadalupe. This was Vinicola Santa Elena just outside Aguascalientes, Mexico — and it’s one of the main wineries helping to put Aguascalientes wine on the map.
Aguascalientes: North America’s next big wine region?
A map of Aguascalientes’ wine route. The state is home to a number of outstanding, but criminally underrated wineries. (Lugtur)
Among Mexico’s many indigenous beverages, its wines are growing in global recognition. Wine regions like Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California and Valle de Parras in Coahuila are among the most famous in the country. Valle de Guadalupe is considered one of the great international wine destinations. But wine production in Mexico extends across 14 states, and the wines of Aguascalientes deserve a seat at (or on) the table.
Aguascalientes’ wineries may not have the global recognition of those in Napa Valley or Bordeaux, but what they lack in fame, they make up for in charm and authenticity. Set against the backdrop of the region’s stunning landscapes, vineyards like Vinicola Santa Elena offer visitors a chance to wander through acres of meticulously tended vines while learning about the winemaking process from passionate experts.
Here, tradition is honored, with many wineries still employing age-old techniques passed down through generations. Yet, innovation is also embraced, as local vintners experiment with new grape varietals and winemaking methods. This gives a diverse array of wines that reflect both the region’s history and its future.
Aguascalientes, while one of the smallest states in Mexico, is the fifth-largest wine-producing region in the country. With an average elevation of more than 6,500 feet above sea level, it is also one of Mexico’s highest-elevation wine regions. The semi-dry climate makes Aguascalientes a prime region for growing popular grapes like Nebbiolo, Malbec, and Sauvignon Blanc. But Aguascalientes is known for many more varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Garnacha Blanca, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Tempranillo.
The wine tradition here dates back more than 400 years. It began with Catholic Monks fermenting wine for church ceremonies. For centuries after this, the wine region sat relatively quiet until the grape-growing resurgence in the early 20th century. Today, only 25 percent of the grapes in Aguascalientes turn into wine, so if you’re able to snag a bottle, you’re sipping something exclusive.
La ruta del vino
Fiestas de la Vendimia de la Ruta del Vino Aguascalientes
One of the best ways to explore the wine route of Aguascalientes is to literally follow its Ruta del Vino. Aguascalientes has more than 740 acres of vineyards, divided among 16 wineries. Along the route, visitors can pop into local cheese shops and tour the historic haciendas.
The Ruta del Vino continues through the state visiting several other wineries, as well as farms and artisanal shops that offer products that pair perfectly with Aguascalientes wine. Goaty Cheeses, for example, is an artisanal cheese shop that opened in 2015 specializing in goat cheese. While visiting the shop, foodies will have the opportunity to taste cheeses and pick out the perfect cheese to pair with a bottle of wine.
Fincas Cuatro Caminos is another special place to taste Aguascalientes. The estate is blanketed with thousands of olive trees and their main product is the artisanal Arturo Macias olive oil.
Of course, the main reason to tour the Ruta del Vino is to sample the good stuff — the wine. Aguascalientes’ wine production, while small, is quickly gaining international attention. The state snagged eight medals in the Mexico Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles Guanajuato 2021 competition. Judges from Europe and the Americas came together for blind tastings and ultimately awarded two Grand Gold Medals, three Gold Medals, and three Silver Medals to the wines of Aguascalientes. Vinicola Santa Elena took home the Gold Medal in the 2023 Concours Mondial Bruxelles competition.
The perfect Mexican weekend break
A weekend in Aguascalientes wine country pairs perfectly with a trip to a luxury spa. Luckily there are several to choose from along the way. (Casa Legato Spa)
With so many stops along the Ruta del Vino, visitors can turn a wine-tasting weekend into a wellness journey. Several hotels within the region have opportunities to combine both wine and wellness. Casa Legato Spa Resort, for example, shows off 12 charming villas and the Tesoro de Agua Spa and Wellness Center. The spa has an impressive list of rituals, massages, and facials, including a Wine Antioxidant ritual. Think exfoliation with grape seed and a massage, followed by a wine-based mask and body wrap. The entire experience concludes with a tasting of house red paired with a cheese board.
Aguascalientes may not be the first destination that comes to mind when thinking of wine tourism, but it’s certainly one that deserves attention and a seat at the dinner table.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
The Roma fashion revolution has now reached Mexico's traditional markets, with the Mercado el 100 offering a stylish, modern take on traditional street vendors. (Mercado el 100)
Every Sunday morning in Plaza del Lanzador in Roma Sur, a stylish international crowd gathers to stock up on their weekly produce, scope out the scene…and to be seen. This is Mercado el 100, Mexico City.
A neighborhood staple since 2010, Mercado el 100 draws in the fashionable, the hipster expats, celebrity chefs, discerning locals, curious tourists and gastronomes alike. Learn about the history of the trendy open-air market, its offerings, and the must-visit vendors.
Few places in Mexico City are nicer to spend a sunny afternoon than Mercado 100. (Mónica Belot)
Mercado el 100’s Origins & Philosophy
Mercado el 100’s name reflects its philosophy centered around locality, both in its vendors and its produce. With a collective of over 50 organic farmers and artisans — predominantly family businesses – the market exclusively showcases sourced within a 100-kilometer radius of Mexico City. While the Mercado’s prices are often higher than those of traditional markets in Mexico City, it’s worth checking out for high-quality seasonal produce, tasty options and unique finds (and of course, the people-watching). Perhaps most importantly, the market is pet-friendly, so don’t forget to keep an eye out for the adorable pups scampering around and socializing to the beat of live musicians playing their catchy tunes at the plaza.
Set against the backdrop of the López Velarde Park and Garden, the vendor stalls flank a spacious path, and offer everything from handmade soaps, to fresh fruits and vegetables, handmade crafts, clay cooking pots, Mayan chocolate, fresh breads and natural cheeses. Also available is prepared food for a diversity of dietary preferences, including vegan and gluten-free options. The market specializes in some hard-to-find items, like edible flowers, organic pet food, unique spices and even “medicinal mushrooms” (which we haven’t tried out yet, but intend to). Notably, shoppers will appreciate the availability of non-toxic cleaning products, rounding out Mercado el 100’s focus on health and eco-consciousness.
Must-Visit Vendors in Mercardo 100
While every vendor at Mercado el 100 offers something special, here’s the route we recommend to make the most of your experience at the market.
Kick off your market adventure with a visit to Señora Salsa — on the left hand side as you walk in. There, you can score some tasty baked goods, including a gluten-free banana cake generously peppered with chocolate chips for an energy boost for the stretch ahead. Make sure you try the Señora’s INCREDIBLE Salsa de Semillas (seeds) which features mild yet flavorful chile mora along with a chunky mix of peanuts, sunflower seeds and sesame seeds.
As her name suggests, Señora Salsa sells some of Mexico City’s most delicious salsa at her stall every Sunday. (Mercado el 100)
Head across the way to Dalias & Julietas to choose from a plethora of homegrown loose-leaf teas and – if only to impress your friends with your elevated plating skills – a selection of delicate edible flowers.
If you know anything about eggs, you know that bright orange yolks are an indicator of eggs with a high nutritional value. The eggs at Los Camperos happen to be some of the tastiest and most vibrant in town. These local treasures are sourced from organic, free-range hens, and sold at a reasonable price.
Continue onwards to Simbiotica to pick up some probiotic treats like homemade kimchi meant to tantalize both your palate and microbiome.
An absolute MUST is a stop at Danke Foods, where the chicos running the stall have a minimalistic three products on offer: coconut milk, coconut water and cashew milk– all homemade, and without any chemical-esque additives. This writer’s favorite, by far, is the cashew milk which has a teeny touch of natural sweetener and is drinkable by the gallon (which yours truly is not ashamed to admit she has come close to, on more than one occasion).
Mercado el 100 focuses on more than just healthy produce, with flowers and fresh meat and fish alongside traditional remedies. (Mónica Belot)
Casa Tlalmamatla is where we like to stock up on ready-made foods for the weekdays ahead (although they’re so tasty that they rarely last more than a day in the house). Snag one of Tlalmamatla’s vegan tamales with mushrooms, and their outstanding tortitas (baked fritters). All of the options are mouth-wateringly delicious, but the ones we dream about most are the cauliflower variety and the acelga and queso (swiss chard and cheese) tortitas.
Pick up your weekly fish smoked or fileted at Truchas el Manantial, where you can also score a bonus lesson on fish sourcing and quality from the knowledgeable owners. Their fresh trout (brook or rainbow) is ethically raised in a local, forest-based spring.
Then, mosey on over to Rancho Raudal to pick up your meaty necessities like specialized cuts of beef and lamb, grass-fed and humanely raised. We also make sure to buy their hearty caldo de huesos (bone broth), which has the proper gelatin-like characteristics that a nutritious broth should have.
Pick up your fruits and veggies throughout the market– you’ll find these aplenty, including more exotic varieties like purple cauliflower, blue mushrooms and other produce with unusual qualities.
In a country filled with highly processed food, the simple, organic nature of Mercado el 100 is a breath of fresh air. (Mónica Belot)
End your market sojourn with a very special experience — usually the highlight of our market day — at Otzilotzi, a prepared food stall specializing in clean and healthy natural ingredients. Here, you can sample dishes with a pre-Hispanic bent, including rabbit tinga, mushrooms a la mexicana, nopales (cactus) with scrambled egg, pipián con chilacayote (creamy thick red salsa with slices of figleaf gourd), and tortitas horneadas de acelga (baked swiss chard fritters). We enjoy a taco with as many toppings as it can fit. The delicious seasoning and unique ingredients are genuinely unforgettable. Otzilotzi also provides many of their salsas and toppings to-go; these make a marvelous culinary addition to any dish.
The Perfect Sunday Spot
Grab a treat and have a seat at one of the benches in the sunshine at the end of the market path, where you can keep an eye out for many of the interesting characters frequenting the neighborhood’s Sunday meeting spot.
The market is open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., though we recommend arriving early to get the first pick of the best products. After exploring the market, consider a stroll through López Velarde Park and Garden, which borders the plaza. And If your pastry-craving is unsatiated, grab a coffee and blueberry roll nearby at Vulevu Bakery at Córdoba 234, just a stone’s throw away. Whether you’re there for the exotic blue mushrooms or the posh crowd, Mercado el 100 has a lot of something for everyone.
Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.
