Sunday, October 19, 2025

Puerto Vallarta rides toward a healthier future with free public bicycle program

By
Charlotte Smith
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1
Puerto Vallarta bike tours
A new public bicycling program in Puerto Vallarta could bring health and environmental benefits to the Bay of Banderas. (Vallarta Magico)

Long known for its stunning beaches and vibrant streets, Puerto Vallarta is embracing a new chapter in its urban evolution, one focused on sustainability, public health and smarter mobility.

The city is in the early stages of planning a free public bicycle system aimed at transforming how both residents and tourists navigate the area.

Guy on bike
Public bicycle schemes have taken off in several Mexican cities recently. Will Puerto Vallarta be next? (Tomás Acosta/Cuartoscuro.com)

At the heart of the project is a vision to make Puerto Vallarta a model city for green transportation in Mexico. The initiative, championed by Mayor Luis Ernesto Munguía González, is being financed through the local tourism trust, which receives revenue from a levy known as the lodging tax, which funds and maintains public spaces, tourism infrastructure and citywide services. The approach ties tourism directly to urban improvement, ensuring that those who benefit from the city’s charm also contribute to its sustainability.

According to city officials, the project is expected to unfold in two stages. First, the city is focusing on revitalizing and expanding the existing network of bike paths. These routes will form the backbone of the program, connecting neighborhoods and key attractions.

At the same time, urban planners are studying which areas would benefit most from the installation of bicycle docking stations.

In an interview Aug. 18 with Tribuna de la Bahía, Munguía said locations under consideration include the intersection of Avenida Los Tules and Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio, Plaza Caracol, the southern end of the Malecón, the Universidad del Mar de Puerto Vallarta, and Plaza Lázaro Cárdenas. These sites were selected for their strategic importance, central access and available public space.

Once the infrastructure is in place, the second phase, deployment of the bicycles will begin. While details such as the number of bikes and operating model are still in development, city leaders have confirmed that the bicycles will be free to use, reinforcing the program’s commitment to accessibility and inclusion.

Puerto Vallarta isn’t starting from scratch. Across the world, in cities like Paris, Bogotá and nearby Guadalajara, free or low-cost public bike-sharing programs have shown significant success. These systems reduce car dependency, ease traffic congestion, improve air quality and promote healthier lifestyles.

People on bikes in Guadalajara
Guadalajara’s MiBici serivce may be the model that Puerto Vallarta chooses to copy. (MiBici/Facebook)

Guadalajara’s MiBici program has become a reference point, demonstrating how strategic planning and community engagement can turn bicycles into key elements of urban mobility.

For Puerto Vallarta, a city where tourism drives the economy and climate change presents a growing threat, such a program offers a dual benefit. It supports local transportation needs while aligning the city with global environmental goals. Visitors will gain an eco-friendly, cost-free way to explore the area, while locals, many of whom lack access to private vehicles, will enjoy greater mobility.

Matthew Werter, owner of Vallarta Unified Health Solutions, sees the initiative as a step forward for both mental and physical health.

“As we learn more about our physical and mental health, the importance that exercise plays cannot be ignored,” Werter said. “This program provides an opportunity for people to get outside and enjoy the natural beauty that Puerto Vallarta has to offer. As a father, being able to hop on a bicycle and get some exercise with my son while enjoying this piece of paradise we call home only makes Vallarta an even better place to raise him.”

Still, the road ahead presents challenges. Bicycle safety is a concern, especially given the city’s cobblestone streets and often unpredictable traffic patterns. Some have voiced frustration with incomplete or narrow bike paths that leave cyclists exposed.

“I love the idea of this, but what about our roads?” asked resident Cecy Romero. “We have paths already, yes, but not a lot, and they cannot just be extended; they need to be fixed. People will hurt themselves on our roads.”

Jalisco's Governor Enrique Alfaro riding a bike on a new bike lane in Puerto Vallarta. He's in the lead wearing a white button down cotton shirt and black pants and white sneakers on a black mountain bike. Behind him at varying distances, are other bicyclists. In the background, a man in a dress shirt and black pants takes footage of him with a camera.
Gov. Enrique Alfaro, center, inaugurated Puerto Vallarta’s latest bike lanes — part of a new initiative to add more green mobility options in the city — in October last year. Despite this, there are still some concerns that city-wide bicycle lanes could need more protection. (Gov of Jalisco)

Safety is also a concern for Werter, although he remains hopeful.

“The worsening problem of traffic and pollution caused by the ever-increasing number of cars in Puerto Vallarta needs solutions that incentivize alternative modes of transportation,” he said. “Safety would be my greatest concern; however, I’m sure that Puerto Vallarta can use the successes seen in similar programs implemented in other cities as a template to ensure this program is successful here.”

City officials are also exploring how to address maintenance and security challenges, including keeping the bicycles in good condition and preventing theft or vandalism. Partnerships with experienced operators, possibly even Guadalajara’s MiBici, are being considered to bring best practices to Vallarta.

There is also a strong push to integrate the bicycle system into the city’s broader transportation upgrades. Puerto Vallarta has already introduced electric buses, with the first spotted on city streets in late August. Upgraded major intersections and new investments in parks and bridges are contributing to a larger vision of a more modern, connected city.

Programs like this are transformative not just because of the bicycles themselves, but because of the ripple effects they create. When people have access to clean, affordable and efficient transportation, their quality of life improves. Commutes become shorter. Air becomes cleaner. Public spaces become more vibrant.

In cities such as Copenhagen and Amsterdam, both global leaders in urban cycling, the benefits are reflected not only in health data seen in the Environmental Insights Explorer and reduced emissions as evidenced by both the Municipality of Copenhagen and the University of Oxford, but in the everyday lives of residents who feel freer, safer and more connected to their communities.

If thoughtfully implemented, Puerto Vallarta’s bicycle program could become one of the city’s proudest achievements by taking a bold step toward sustainability, equity and wellness.

The bikes may be free, but their value could be immeasurable.

Charlotte Smith is a contributing writer with over 20 years of experience as a writer and editor. An award-winning journalist, she actively seeks out stories that resonate with the world around us, while also maintaining a travel blog focused on her life adventuring across Mexico, specifically the states of Jalisco and Nayarit.

57 years ago today, Volkswagen drove a Beetle across Lake Chapala

By
John Pint
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7
57 years ago, a team of engineers attempted the impossible: Drive a Volkwagen Beetle across Mexico's largest lake. (Mexico Desconocido)

By the time the last Volkswagen Beetle in the world rolled off the assembly line in Puebla in 2003, the “Vocho,” as it is still fondly called, had endeared itself to just about everyone in Mexico.

One of the factors that brought the curvy sedan into the public eye was the unforgettable day a little white Vocho — equipped with a 30-centimeter propeller — chugged across Chapala, Mexico’s biggest lake.

A Volkswagen Beetle drives across lake Chapala
The Volkswagen was specially outfitted for the crossing attempt. (Mexico Desconocido)

That crossing took place on September 8, 1968. The story of the event was widely published, but details were scarce, and many papers embellished their reports.

In search of the real story

To get the true and full story, I sat down with Jorge Viera, president of the Volkswagen Classic Club in Guadalajara, who spent years looking for the mechanics who made the car amphibious and piloted it across the lake.

“I knew eight of the 14 people involved,” Viera told me, “and one of them introduced me to the man who organized the whole thing: Alois Poppenreiter. He was an Austrian-Hungarian engineer brought to Guadalajara by Volkswagen Americas to act as Service Manager.

“It was in 1968 that the idea of floating the little car occurred to Poppenreiter. Volkswagen had announced that their sedan was the most hermetic car to be found and had made ads saying it floated, but it wasn’t really true. Poppenreiter, however, decided he was going to do it; he was going to make a Volkswagen float, and he was going to make it float right across Lake Chapala!”

Poppenreiter got together with several equally enthusiastic Mexican mechanics at Volkswagen Americas, and the owners of the dealership provided them with a used 1968 sedan. For the next six months the team worked on this project during their free time. They were never paid anything for this and always made it clear they had done it for fun.

Jorge Viera undertook a mission to find and interview the team behind the audacious stunt. (John Pint)

They started out by putting the Vocho through their car wash to see just how watertight it was. 

“Then they began work on sealing it up,” says Viera. “People say they use silicon, but it didn’t exist in those days! Actually, they used a product called Apcoseal, as well as putty, cork, and even egg whites: nothing fancy!

Beneath black waters

“Next, they went to a nearby park called Avila Camacho, where there was a dam. Well, a certain amount of what we call ‘aguas negras’ (raw sewage) flowed into that dam, but that didn’t hold back the team. They built a ramp, drove the Vocho into it… and it sank! They had to pull it out with a tractor and ropes.”

Years later, Marcelo de Loza, one of the Mexican mechanics, recalled the event. “The water in that dam was dirty and smelled bad. We went back to the agency and washed both the car and ourselves. I ended up stinking for three days,”

By trial and error, the project advanced. The car’s 1200 engine had been ruined by water leaking into it and was replaced by a 1500. Adjustments were made to keep the oil in and the water out. A modified worm gear had to be made on a lathe.

The water in Lake Chapala was not especially clean. Note the rescue ropes mounted on the front of the vehicle. (Jorge Viera)

Water snakes and lilies

“Next,” continues Viera, “they tested the car at the Ajijic Yacht Club and Lake Cajititlán where they ran into problems from water snakes and ‘lirios,’ water hyacinths that carpeted many local lakes and lagoons in those days.”

By now, the Vocho had a removable 30-cm bronze propeller on the back, industrial tubing extending its exhaust pipes above water level, and a snorkel on its carburetor.

At last, they made their final tests in Lake Chapala.

The lake crossing was to take place on September 8 and for the event they hired two speedboats to accompany them in case of trouble. 

It’s important to note that the doors of the Vocho were sealed and couldn’t be opened even in an emergency. If the car began to sink, they would have to exit via the windows.

The pilot of the amphibious vehicle was Alois Poppenreiter himself and the copilot was the man in charge of the electrical system, Marcelo de Loza, who, however, was specifically chosen for co-pilot “as he was an excellent swimmer.” De Loza operated the car’s two bilge pumps. The public didn’t know about these because the water was being pumped out of the car through the glove compartment.

Finally came the day of the crossing. The would-be mariners attached a 30-meter-long agave-fiber rope to the bumper, in case the car went to the bottom. This was coiled and hanging on the outside mirror on the driver’s side. They informed the newspapers, and lots of people showed up.

The plan was to launch the boat at 12:00 noon from San Luis Soyatlan at the southwest corner of the lake. They expected to reach Ajijic at 2:00 p.m. and Chapala at 3:00.

“However, says Viera, “there they were on the 8th, ready to launch, but the two speed boats were nowhere to be seen. The reason was the waves. They were so high that no boats of any kind were allowed on the lake. It was too dangerous.”

“Well, after a while, the waves calmed down and they immediately launched the Vochito, accompanied by an ordinary rowboat. It was only halfway through the event that one of those speed boats arrived. There were stories that a scuba diver accompanied them, but these were just rumors.”

Choppy waters

The victorious Volkswagen spent some time in the WV Americas installation before being un-retired to advertise the 1970 World Cup. (Mexico Desconocido)

Chapala or bust

“We left San Luis Soyatlán at about 12:15,” recalled de Loza in a TV Azteca interview, “and, sure enough, after a little while the motor died…but, we managed to get it going again and carried on, reaching Ajijic at about 4:00 p.m., but then we had to keep going in the water to reach Chapala. That took us another two hours.”

When they arrived, a euphoric crowd of locals and tourists welcomed the Vochito at the pier — and then began the fiesta!

The car was put on exhibit in Volkswagen Americas for a while and — restored for normal operation — made its final public appearance at Jalisco Stadium during a World Cup soccer game in 1970. It was driven to the middle of the pitch where, to the crowd’s delight, out of it emerged all eleven members of Mexico’s team, who had been crammed inside. The car was then sold and lost track of, but the Vocho that crossed the lake will never be forgotten.

John Pint has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of “A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area” and co-author of “Outdoors in Western Mexico.” More of his writing can be found on his website.

If you love the Grand Canyon, then you’ll love Copper Canyon in Mexico

By
Nellie Huang
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Welcome to Chihuahua's Copper Canyon: A land of mystery, nature and awe. (Steppes Travel)

Having been a travel writer for the past 15 years, I’ve had the privilege of traveling to over 150 countries and visiting the big hitters — from the pyramids of Giza to the jungle-clad temples of Angkor Wat and the mountaintop ruins of Machu Picchu. While these icons are magnificent, I’ve learned that the real magic of travel isn’t just about ticking off a list. It’s about finding those “wow” moments in places I didn’t expect.

That’s exactly what this new series is all about. Over the next 10 weeks, I’ll be taking you on a journey through my adopted home of Mexico to find the incredible experiences that stand shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the Earth’s most iconic spots. Get ready to venture beyond the well-trodden path and discover a side of Mexico you never knew existed.

Grand Canyon vs Copper Canyon

A sunlit panoramic view of Copper Canyon, with a cable car full of tourists capturing moments against the sprawling natural vista, under a nearly clear sky, with no identifiable traces of individuals
The Grand Canyon isn’t the only canyon that can take a traveler’s breath away. (Shutterstock)

To kick things off, we’re starting with a showstopper of epic proportions. In the mountains of northern Mexico, the earth cracks open to reveal a dramatic landscape where sheer cliffs plunge into a copper-green abyss, carved deep over millions of years by the rivers that still shape it today. 

The sheer scale of it all might remind you of Arizona’s pride and joy, but this is its untamed, lesser-known cousin: Barrancas del Cobre or Copper Canyon. While the Grand Canyon is a global icon, instantly recognizable and visited by millions, the Copper Canyon remains a far more untamed and, if you ask me, more adventurous experience.

The two share a similar origin story, both sculpted over millennia by the forces of water carving through high plateaus. Both boast staggering depths and widths that defy imagination. But that’s about where the similarities end. Think of the Grand Canyon as a perfectly produced Hollywood blockbuster, and the Copper Canyon an indie film — raw, wild and unpredictable.

The blockbuster experience

Don’t get me wrong, the Grand Canyon is popular for good reason. It’s a world wonder, a 277-mile-long spectacle whose layered rock tells a story that stretches back two billion years. For the roughly five million people who visit annually, the experience is often a beautifully managed affair. Paved roads lead you to stunning viewpoints, where you’ll find visitor centers, museums, and the reassuring presence of park rangers.

It’s undeniably beautiful, but its immense popularity means that the experience can sometimes feel a little too curated. While serious hikers can brave its wild heart on multi-day treks (if they snag an overnight permit), most of us see it just from those accessible, well-paved trails along the rim. I often feel like I’m observing a masterpiece from a distance, safely separated from its true, untamed core.

Mexico’s wild frontier

Imagine a canyon system so vast it could swallow the Grand Canyon whole — four times over. Welcome to the Copper Canyon, a network of six interconnected canyons in the heart of the Sierra Madre Occidental. And yet, while Arizona’s marvel welcomes millions, the Barrancas del Cobre see only a tiny fraction of that, leaving this natural attraction largely untouched by mass tourism.

A panoramic view of Mexico's Copper Canyon in Chihuahua. The rugged canyon system stretches out under a clear blue sky, showing deep gorges and rocky, scrub-covered mesas.
Despite its name, Copper Canyon actually comprises six distinct canyons in Mexico’s Sierra Madre Occidental range. (Jens Uhlenbrock/Wikimedia Commons)

For me, what truly makes the Copper Canyon such a profound place is that it’s still very much alive. It’s home to the Tarahumara (Rarámuri) people, who inhabit the steep slopes of the mountains in simple huts and caves. You might have heard of them – they’re renowned for their superhuman running prowess. Born from a lifetime in this rugged terrain, the Tarahumara can navigate rocky trails for miles on end, effortlessly scaling the steep slopes of the Copper Canyon.

While I was there, I learned about the story of Lorena Ramírez, a young Tarahumara woman who became an international sensation. She won grueling ultramarathons in Europe, not in high-tech gear, but in her traditional flowing skirt and tire-soled huaraches. I highly recommend visiting the Museo de la Cultura Tarahumara in the town of Creel to get the full scoop and learn more about this fascinating culture. 

If you want a truly unforgettable experience, mark your calendars for the first weekend of March. That’s when the annual Caballo Blanco Ultramarathon, a brutal 50-mile (80-kilometer) race, takes place in the town of Urique. It’s a humbling, front-row seat to watch the amazing Tarahumara athletes conquer their home turf with impressive grace and speed.

Highlights of Copper Canyon 

Copper Canyon is a hikers’ paradise, and hands down one of the best places to explore in Mexico for outdoor lovers. The legendary three-day trek from the old silver mining town of Batopilas to Urique is an epic journey along ancient paths that weave through mango groves and bougainvillea-filled gardens, a world away from the pine-clad rim. You’ll need a good guide and a sturdy pair of legs, but the reward is total immersion in the wilderness. 

For those who don’t have time for a multiday trek, my tip is to stay at one of the incredible canyon-rim hotels in Divisadero, like the Hotel Mirador or Hotel Divisadero Barrancas, and do guided, short hikes from there. Picture pulling back the curtains at sunrise and being greeted by the silent, immense expanse of three canyons stretching before you, and then hiking along the rim hearing stories from a Tarahumara guide. It’s a humbling, front-row seat to the canyon’s grandeur that a simple roadside viewpoint just can’t replicate.

Near the Divisadero train station, the Parque de Aventuras Barrancas del Cobre offers a shot of adrenaline for thrillseekers. You can soar across the canyon on one of the world’s longest ziplines or, for a less hair-raising (but no less jaw-dropping) view, glide over the chasm on the aerial tram. Either way, the views are breathtaking!

All aboard El Chepe

EL CHEPE: Mexico's BEST Train through the Copper Canyon!

But the absolute best way to experience the Copper Canyon is aboard the Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacífico, affectionately known as El Chepe. This legendary train journey is an engineering marvel, traversing 37 bridges and 86 tunnels as it winds its way from the coastal city of Los Mochis to the highlands of Chihuahua.

To embark on this incredible journey, you’ll need to get to either Chihuahua City or Los Mochis in the state of Sinaloa further south. Both cities have airports with connections from major cities in Mexico and the United States. I personally prefer to start my journey in the high altitudes of Chihuahua, and then descend towards the warm coastal plains off the Pacific Ocean. It’s a fantastic contrast!

Now you have another choice to make, and this really comes down to your travel style. The Chepe Express is your comfortable, scenic-focused option that runs between Creel and Los Mochis, offering three classes of service: Tourist, Executive, and First Class. The higher classes provide access to a dining car with panoramic windows, a bar, and an open-air terrace for unbeatable views. Book tickets online in advance, especially if you’re planning to travel in the holiday season.

The Chepe Regional, on the other hand, is a more basic, local-bus-on-rails experience that covers a longer route from Chihuahua City to Los Mochis, making more stops along the way. While it’s primarily used by locals, tourists can also ride in the tourist-class car. The Regional can only be booked at the train stations in Los Mochis or Chihuahua. For the full cultural immersion, the Regional is a great bet.

Beyond the viewpoint

The Grand Canyon is, without question, a bucket-list destination. But for travelers who, like me, get a special thrill from earning their experiences, the Copper Canyon offers a different, more profound kind of experience.

Here, you wake up to it from a cliff-edge hotel room, you soar through it on a zipline, and you journey into its very heart aboard a legendary train. A hike isn’t just a walk on a well-trodden path but a rugged passage into a different culture, a different world. 

Copper Canyon in Mexico
The rugged but beautiful terrain of Mexico’s Copper Canyon. (Unsplash/Jorge Franco)

If you’ve stood at the rim of the Grand Canyon and felt that tug, that desire to go deeper and connect with a place on a more human level, then it’s time to pack your bags. Mexico is calling.

​​Nellie Huang is a professional travel writer and self-proclaimed Mexico-holic. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.

Careyes: Community at the Heart of Costalegre’s Future

By
Meagan Drillinger
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(Karla Cifuentes)

When I tell people I once lived in Careyes, their reactions split neatly in two. A dreamy smile from those who know it, or a curious tilt of the head from those who don’t. For the uninitiated, Careyes is a private enclave carved into the wild Pacific coast of Jalisco’s Costalegre, a stretch of shoreline that remains one of Mexico’s least developed, though increasingly on the radar of luxury investors. To live there, however briefly, is to discover a world that is neither resort nor conventional community. Rather, something altogether more elusive, and in many ways, impossible to replicate.

For me, it was also home.

Life in the Pueblo

Careyes
Few communities boast a more picturesque coastal locale than Careyes. (Karla Cifuentes)

My days unfolded in the Pueblo, the unapologetically “more affordable” part of the community tucked back from the typical cliffside casitas and palatial villas. Here, the kaleidoscope of pastel casitas is where staff, artists and creatives shared the same bougainvillea-draped streets. The architecture and location of houses in Careyes signal different price points — cliffside castles perched over the sea versus modest bungalows down cobblestone lanes — but social life refused such hierarchies. At night, one could drift from an A-list cocktail reception at a six-bedroom estate to a barefoot music jam in nearby Perula, where neighbors dance to live music and grab a plate of food for 150 pesos. 

The fluidity is the essence of Careyes. Wealth is acknowledged but never weaponized. Here, a billionaire and a painter might share the same bottle of tequila while talking about where to find the best surf break on the coast. The connective tissue is not wealth, but a collective agreement that everyone belongs.

That philosophy was embedded from the beginning. When Italian financier Gian Franco Brignone arrived more than half a century ago, he envisioned more than a cluster of vacation homes. He saw a sanctuary where architecture could be playful, where art was integral, and where community (not commerce) was the binding force.

Careyes became famous for its fantastical forms: candy-colored casitas rising from cliffs, castles with wraparound infinity pools, and an eccentric collection of villas designed as much for whimsy as for shelter. Its guests ranged from movie stars to European royals, yet the atmosphere never calcified into exclusivity. 

Scruffy elegance

What makes Careyes extraordinary is its paradox. It is undeniably a playground for the wealthy. Homes sell for millions, and private yachts ferry guests in and out. Yet the experience is anything but polished. Roads along the highway are rutted, Wi-Fi is temperamental, and it’s not uncommon to share an outdoor meal with a meandering scorpion or tarantula. Luxury here is filtered through eccentricity and imperfection. 

There is a certain “scruffy elegance” to Careyes. Barefoot dinners under the stars, avant-garde art installations rising beside a jungle path, children chasing iguanas while their parents sip a jamaica mezcalita on the sand. It is high net worth without the high gloss — hippies with deep pockets, as more than one resident has quipped. That tension between sophistication and bohemian grit is precisely what gives the place its vitality.

Costalegre’s next chapter

Nido de Amor
Sunlight peeks through at the Nido de Amor (Karla Cifuentes)

Careyes, of course, does not exist in isolation. It anchors the broader Costalegre, a 150-mile stretch of Pacific coastline extending from Barra de Navidad to Cabo Corrientes. For decades, its remoteness has kept it pristine, until recently, reaching some sections required hours of rough road.

That isolation is beginning to fade, as new developments take root and speculation swirls over a proposed airport — with debate ongoing between government officials and local landowners over whether it will serve private interests or the public at large. The Jalisco government has unveiled a 20-year master plan for Costalegre, pledging to attract sustainable luxury development while preserving the very wilderness that defines it.

“The true luxury of Costalegre is in its nature,” said Michelle Friedman, the Secretary of Tourism of Jalisco. “If we can succeed in blending luxury with environmental consciousness, it will remain one of the last virgin coastlines in the Americas.”

Already, marquee projects are underway. Xala promises a mix of ultra-luxury hospitality with the Six Senses resort and private residences, coupled with large-scale conservation and community investment. El Tezcalame, anchored by Chable Costalegre, will debut in 2027 on land that is mostly reserved for conservation, as well. Even north in Riviera Nayarit, Mandarina has introduced One&Only and Rosewood resorts with branded residences, while Nauka, with its Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is preparing to add another infusion of private community living. Infrastructure upgrades, from highways to new airports, are knitting the region more tightly into Mexico’s tourism fabric.

These projects will undoubtedly shape the Costalegre and Bay of Banderas of the future. But having lived in Careyes, I know they will never quite replicate its essence.

A community apart

Careyes remains singular precisely because it was never conceived as a “development.” It grew out of a vision both eccentric and personal, more interested in community and creativity than marketability. Its residents, whether full-time or seasonal, buy into that ethos as much as into the architecture.

Tigre del Mar
Enjoying the views from Tigre del Mar, a Careyes-based luxury villa. (Karla Cifuentes)

To leave is not just to leave behind a villa or a beach; it is to leave a pace of life orchestrated by nature, by friendships that cross boundaries of wealth and nationality, by nights that begin in candlelit homes and end inside a traditional temazcal under the stars.

The road ahead

As Jalisco’s Costalegre master plan advances, the tension between preservation and progress will sharpen. For some, developments like Xala or Nauka represent opportunity. For others, they raise questions about authenticity and sustainability. But for Careyes, the challenge — and the promise — is different.

It already embodies what the region’s planners say they hope to achieve: a balance of nature and luxury, eccentricity and elegance, community and exclusivity. In that sense, Careyes may be less a relic of the past than a blueprint for the future.

And for those who’ve lived there, even briefly, it remains something rarer still — a place where wealth and whimsy coexist, and where community is the greatest luxury of all.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

A sporting legend: Remembering Gustavo Peña

By
Bob Pateman
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0
(Facebook)

Gustavo Peña was a hero of Mexican football who, at his peak, captained his country in two World Cup tournaments. This included 1970, when, in front of a passionate home crowd, Mexico fought through to the knockout stages of the tournament for the first time. Sadly, when Gustavo was at his peak in the 1960s, there was little video footage. So we can only watch him in grainy 5 and 10-second clips. However, those of us old enough to have seen him play will always have our memories. 

In 1970, I was a young football fanatic in England, watching the opening games of the World Cup. In those days, it was the hosts (not the champions) who kicked off the tournament. Thus, Mexico played the USSR in the opening game. While not really expected to win the tournament, the Russians were tipped to do well. After all, they had finished third in 1966. As for Mexico, they had played 17 World Cup games in six tournaments and had only won one of them. However, that year, they were at home, and the whole nation expected better. I still remember the game and how every time the Russians hit the ball into the Mexico penalty area, there was Gustavo Peña rising to head it away.

The young career of Gustavo Peña

Gustavo Peña
Gustavo Peña played many important games for his country, including in two World Cups. (Public domain)

Born in Talpa de Allende, Jalisco, Gustavo played for much of his career in his native state. That started with Oro de Guadalajara, for whom he made his debut against Celaya at just 17 years of age. Oro was the ideal starting point for a young player, and Gustavo was quickly able to secure a first-team spot. It was at Oro that he found the perfect guru, the exceptional Hungarian coach Arpad Fekete. Under Fekete’s tutorship, Peña was promoted to team captain, a role he would hold in virtually every team he played for. At 18, he played in the 1962 World Cup qualifiers. Mexico made it to Chile, but an injured Peña stayed at home.

The 1962-63 season saw Peña, now 20 years old and already a regular international, marshal the defense as Oro made a surprising challenge for the league title. By now, he had a nickname, “Halcón,” given for his ability to “sweep down” and take the ball away from opponents. While  Peña was a key player in defense, the great hero of this side was Manoel Tavares – better known as Neco. The striker was approaching the veteran stage of a career that had included ten years playing with Botafogo and São Paulo in his native Brazil.

The lone championship for Oro de Guadalajara

The last weekend of the championship could not have been more dramatic. Mighty Guadalajara arrived at the recently opened Jalisco Stadium, a point ahead of their opponents and needing only a draw to take the title. With the minutes ticking away, they were starting to look safe when Neco pounced for his 14th goal of the season. Peña and his defenders played their part, keeping the 6th clean sheet of the tournament. Oro were champions for the first and only time in their history.

The birth of a legend

Peña was still with Oro when he traveled to England for the 1966 World Cup. At 24, he was now captain of the Mexican team. They started with a draw against France. On reflection, it was the first sign in a World Cup tournament that Mexican football was maturing. Then it was hosts England, desperate for a win after an opening goalless draw with Uruguay. Mexico defended in depth, and with Peña marshalling the resistance from the back, England were held at bay for a frustrating 37 minutes. The great Bobby Charlton broke the deadlock with a shot from way outside the penalty area, and Mexico eventually lost 0-2.

However, they had retained their pride and went on to draw the last game with Uruguay. Although they failed to reach the knockout stages, it had been their best-ever tournament.

Peña finds a new home

Peña’s world changed after the 1966-67 season. He might well have been content to spend his whole career in the quiet surroundings of Oro, a local hero in a friendly club. However, the now-struggling club was sold, forcing the Mexican captain to look for a new home. The team he had always wanted to play for was Guadalajara, a local side he often represented as a guest player on their world tours. It never happened, thanks it seems, to boardroom politics.

Gustavo Peña with Cruz Azul in 1968
Peña, top left, joined Cruz Azul for the 1968-1969 season. (Facebook)

Instead, Peña joined Cruz Azul. Now considered one of the giants of Mexico City football, at the time, they were only a few seasons out of the lower leagues and still based in Hidalgo. Peña would be there for four years, a spell that saw the emergence of the “La Máquina Celeste” (The Blue Machine) era. In all, Cruz Azul would win five of the seven league titles staged between 1969 and 1974. In addition, the team would win the CONCACAF Champions Cup on three occasions.

The 1970 World Cup

Another World Cup came around, this time in Mexico. There was Peña once again at the center of the defense, once again the captain. Only now, he was a 28-year-old veteran of 60 internationals and at the peak of his game. He formed a central partnership with Cruz Azul clubmate Javier Guzmán. With Guzmán crashing into the tackles, Peña could hang back, playing more as a sweeper than a traditional center half. His style and ability are summarized in three moments in the decisive game against Belgium. This was the last game of the group, and Belgium needed to win to go through. Mexico required only a draw. However, a win would give Mexico a better chance of topping the group and staying in Mexico City, where they could play in the magical atmosphere of the Estadio Azteca. 

Peña’s memorable goal

In the 14th minute, Javier “El Cabo” Valdivia was brought down in the box by Jean Thissen. The Belgians complained bitterly, although it seemed a clear-cut decision. Thissen had wrapped his legs around his opponent’s knees. While the Belgians argued with the referee, there was a different debate going on in the Mexican camp. Who should take the spot kick? Peña was the regular and reliable penalty taker. But having won the penalty and with two goals to his credit already in the tournament, Valdivia felt he had a case. While wandering to the sideline to get water,  Peña had a few words with coach Raúl Cárdenas. He confirmed that, yes, his captain should take the kick.

A man unfazed by pressure

Any extra pressure didn’t show. Peña hit the ball cleanly, the goalkeeper dived well but couldn’t reach it, and Mexico were ahead. There remained 76 minutes of tense football during which a talented Belgium side pushed relentlessly forward.  

Two more moments stand out. Late in the first half, with Belgium attacking in waves, van Moer, the surprise star of the team in this tournament, spun around in the Mexican penalty area and tried a shot. In doing so, he slipped, and the ball fell harmlessly to Peña. He was on the edge of the 6-yard box, not somewhere you want to linger. But he calmly flicked the ball backwards through his own legs to let goalkeeper Calderón safely gather it up. It was a moment of class made to look so, so easy. 

Late in the second half, Belgium’s Jean Dockx pushed past his marker and drove into the Mexican penalty area. It was a dangerous moment. But there was Peña, rushing across to cover, sliding into a powerful tackle that took the ball out of play. It was a hard, winning tackle, so clean and fair that the Belgians, who were increasingly irritable at this point in the game, did not make any protest.

The end of a remarkable career

México 1970: ¡LA OLA VERDE! El Azteca vibró con TRIUNFO sobre Bélgica | Resumen México vs Bélgica

Honors followed his World Cup performance, and Peña was included in a World Cup All-Star selection that flew to Russia to play in a testimonial game for legendary goalkeeper Lev Yashin. At home, his career was slowly winding down. There were several years at Monterrey and then a few last games at San Isidro Laguna. He went into management, but once again did not stray far from home, spending two spells and five years at modest Tampico Madero. He was also in charge of Mexico for one game, becoming the only manager to leave that position with a 100% win record. With less money in football in those days, Peña invested in a meat packing factory and, in his 60s, could be seen strolling the halls of his beloved Club Social y Deportivo Jalisco, where, for many years, he was general director of football. 

The legacy of Gustavo Peña

On reflection, Peña had his faults as a player. He was an out-and-out defender, and if he ever wandered into the opponent’s half of the field, it was never caught on film. He sometimes seemed to be drawn so deep that he was in danger of getting in the way of his own keeper. This was certainly the case in the Belgium game, where goalkeeper Calderón, for all his experience, was not looking confident with crosses. On occasions, he was not helped by Peña rushing in to challenge for balls that should have been left for the keeper.

However, Peña did many things well. He was strong in the tackle, brave in the air and always had a good sense of what was going on around him.  He was a reliable penalty taker — unfazed by the pressure. In an age when many defenders were more thug than artist, he was comfortable with the ball at his feet and could set up counterattacks with a crisp pass.

The Hall of Fame at last

Despite bringing steel to the defense, his reading of the game meant he seldom gave away free kicks. Above all, he was a natural leader who guided the players around him and brought the best out of the team. He was certainly one of the great players of his generation. This was made official in 1998 when CONCACAF named him in their Team of the Century. Another honour came, a little belatedly, in 2019 when he was inducted into the Mexican Football Hall of Fame.

Two years later, in January 2021, with the world in the grip of COVID, it was announced that  Gustavo ‘Halcón’ Peña had fallen victim to the pandemic. Time fades the memory, even of our heroes, but some of us still remember Gustavo Peña.

Bob Pateman is a Mexico-based historian, librarian and a life-term hasher. He is editor of On On Magazine, the international history magazine of hashing.

Taste of Mexico: Chiles en Nogada

By
María Meléndez
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0
Chile en nogada in a blue and white bowl
(Recepedia)

Last year, I wrote about the legend of chile en nogada — and how the beloved tale of its invention to honor Mexico’s independence is, at best, folklore. The story goes that in 1821, when Agustín de Iturbide signed the Treaty of Córdoba, the patriotic nuns of Puebla created a dish in the colors of the new flag: green chile, white walnut sauce, and red pomegranate seeds. It’s a beautiful narrative, one repeated in textbooks and restaurant menus alike.

The truth, however, is messier. Chiles en nogada are older — about 300 years old — and while the dish is undeniably Mexican, it was born of collision, not of independence. The poblano chile is native, of course, but its stuffing is a hybrid of the Old and New Worlds: apples, pears, peaches, almonds, and raisins, fruits and nuts carried across the Atlantic by the Spanish, blended with pork and beef. Even the walnut sauce (nogada), without which the dish would be unthinkable, only exists because of Iberian arrival.

A chile en nogada served on a plate
(Julia Estrada)

Yet myth or not, nothing feels more patriotic than eating one in September. Mexico’s national month would be unrecognizable without this indulgence.

My own loyalties lie in Puebla, the dish’s birthplace, where chiles en nogada are a matter of both pride and rivalry. The city’s most traditional restaurants — Casa Barroca, Casareyna, and more recently, Custodia — each claim to make the definitive version. I’m partial to the first two. Friends insist Custodia’s rendition is transcendent, though I’ll confess I haven’t tried it since my family moved away from Puebla and my visits became rare.

Still, there’s a particular satisfaction in making the dish yourself. It is, in many ways, the ultimate home ritual: laborious, festive, and deeply rewarding. Below, I offer two versions — one traditional, one vegan — for those who want to bring a taste of Puebla to their September tables.

Traditional Chile en Nogada (Unbattered)

A note: many recipes call for the chiles to be dipped in egg batter and fried. I’ve never liked the result. To me, the coating overwhelms the delicate balance of sweet, savory, and nutty flavors that makes the dish sing. So these versions are unapologetically naked.

 

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A post shared by Mexico News Daily (@mexiconewsdaily)

Ingredients (for 4 servings)
Chiles and Filling

  • 4 large poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and deveined
  • 250 g cooked pork, finely chopped
  • 100 g cooked beef, finely chopped
  • 1 ripe plantain, fried in small cubes
  • 1 panochera apple, diced
  • 1 milk pear, diced
  • 1 peach, diced
  • 80 g blanched almonds, chopped
  • 60 g raisins
  • 80 g pine nuts
  • ½ onion, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 2 cloves
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Vegetable oil

Nogada (Walnut Sauce)

  • 1 cup walnuts, peeled and soaked in cold milk for 2 hours
  • ½ cup milk
  • 100 g goat cheese (or fresh cheese and cream mix)
  • ½ cup Mexican crema
  • 1–2 tbsp sugar
  • 1–2 tbsp dry sherry or brandy
  • Salt to taste

To garnish

  • Pomegranate seeds
  • Fresh parsley, chopped

Preparation

  1. Roast the poblanos over open flame until blistered. Place in a plastic bag to sweat, then peel carefully. Make a slit and remove seeds and veins without tearing the chile.
  2. For the filling: sauté onion and garlic in oil. Add meats, tomatoes, and spices. When the tomato releases its juices, fold in plantain, apple, pear, peach, almonds, pine nuts, raisins. Season and cook until the mixture is dry and cohesive.
  3. For the nogada: blend soaked walnuts, milk, cheese, crema, sugar, and sherry until smooth. Adjust seasoning. Chill until ready to serve.
  4. Stuff chiles, arrange on plates, bathe with nogada, and garnish generously with pomegranate and parsley.

Vegan/Vegetarian Chile en Nogada (Unbattered)

A plate of Chile en nogada, an example of Puebla food
(Ahleli/Wikimedia Commons)

Ingredients (for 6 servings)

Chiles and Filling

  • 6 large poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and deveined
  • 300 g mushrooms, finely chopped, or cooked lentils
  • 1 panochera apple, diced
  • 1 milk pear, diced
  • 1 peach, diced
  • 1 ripe plantain, diced and fried
  • 50 g blanched almonds, chopped
  • 50 g walnuts, chopped
  • 2 tbsp pine nuts
  • 60 g raisins
  • ¼ white onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 1 small guava, diced (optional)
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • Pinch ground clove
  • Salt and pepper
  • Vegetable oil

Vegan Nogada

  • 1 cup walnuts, peeled and soaked in plant-based milk for 2 hours
  • 100 g blanched almonds
  • 1 small bolillo roll soaked in plant-based milk (optional)
  • 1 cup plant-based milk (adjust for consistency)
  • 1 tbsp brown sugar or maple syrup
  • Splash of dry sherry (optional)
  • Salt and pepper

To garnish

  • Pomegranate seeds
  • Fresh parsley, chopped

Preparation

  1. Roast poblanos as above.
  2. For the filling: sauté onion and garlic, then add mushrooms (or lentils) until cooked through. Add tomato, followed by fruits, nuts, and spices. Cook until integrated and slightly dry.
  3. Blend all nogada ingredients into a smooth sauce, adjusting consistency and seasoning.
  4. Stuff chiles, plate, cover with cold nogada, and decorate with pomegranate and parsley.

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

 

Mexico’s week in review: Bilateral tension and cooperation on display as Mexico welcomes its new judiciary

By
MND Staff
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2
Workers install scaffolding in front of a giant Mexican flag
Workers installed scaffolding in the Mexico City Zócalo this week, part of preparations to decorate the capital for September celebrations of Mexican Independence. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)

In the first week of September, Mexico saw developments in bilateral relations with the United States and major domestic political milestones, while its economy maintained momentum despite ongoing challenges. From President Claudia Sheinbaum’s first annual government report and a new Supreme Court to security collaboration with Washington, Mexico’s constantly evolving political landscape and its complex relationship with its northern neighbor were front and center this week.

Against the backdrop of the political developments, a financial tech firm achieved unicorn status after acquiring a bank targeted by U.S. sanctions, Hurricane Lorena brought torrential rain to northwest Mexico and Mexico registered a conservation win.

Didn’t have time to read all the top stories of the week? Here’s what you missed.

Mexico-US relations take center stage

The week’s most significant diplomatic development came with U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio’s visit to Mexico City, resulting in the establishment of a new bilateral security cooperation program but falling short of the agreement President Sheinbaum had previously hoped to sign this week. The announcement followed months of tension over trade tariffs and security concerns.

President Sheinbaum praised the Mexico-U.S. relationship ahead of the Rubio meeting, emphasizing that despite difficulties, Mexico must maintain good relations with its neighbor, citing the 40 million Mexicans living in the United States and the countries’ extensive trade partnerships.

The new bilateral security group represents what Rubio described as “the closest security cooperation we have ever had, maybe with any country.” The high-level implementation group will meet regularly to coordinate efforts against cartels, strengthen border security, address illicit financial flows, and enhance collaboration to prevent fuel theft while increasing inspections and prosecutions to stop drug and arms trafficking.

Sheinbaum and Rubio announce establishment of new bilateral security group

However, tensions persisted throughout the week. Sheinbaum pushed back on Trump’s claims that she is “scared” of drug cartels, calling the assertion untrue while maintaining her commitment to a respectful bilateral relationship. She later described the new Mexico-U.S. security program as “good for the country”, emphasizing that the plan will advance cooperation in intelligence sharing and training while maintaining Mexico’s sovereignty.

The potential for conflict was on full display late in the week, when Chicago event organizers canceled September’s Mexican Independence Day festivities, which function as a celebration of Mexican heritage in the U.S. Organizers cited the risk of racial profiling and lack of due process at recent immigration raids across the U.S.

Public opinion reflects the complexity of the relationship. A poll published this week showed that 51% of Mexicans believe the bilateral relationship with the U.S. is in bad shape, with 56% rating Sheinbaum’s handling of the Trump relationship as poor. Despite these challenges, two-thirds of respondents oppose U.S. military intervention against cartels in Mexico, while 72% support the handover of cartel figures to U.S. authorities.

Judicial transformation begins

Sept. 1 marked a historic milestone with Mexico’s new Supreme Court taking the bench. The nine newly elected justices, chosen through the country’s first-ever judicial elections in June, began their terms, reducing the court from 11 to nine members and eliminating the previous two-chamber system.

Mexico’s new Supreme Court takes the bench

The transformation represents what Sheinbaum calls “the end of an era of nepotism in the judiciary.” However, critics argue that all nine justices are affiliated with or sympathetic to the ruling Morena party, potentially eliminating vital checks on executive and legislative power. The new court faces an immediate challenge with a historic backlog of 552,800 active unresolved cases, 25% more than a year earlier.

Presidential milestone and national tour

Sheinbaum delivered her upbeat first government report in a 70-minute address at the National Palace, highlighting achievements across security, economy and social programs.

“We’re doing well and we’re going to do even better,” the president said, citing a 25% reduction in homicides over 11 months, economic growth despite international forecasts, and expanded welfare programs reaching 32 million families.

Following the report, Sheinbaum announced an ambitious national tour to visit all 32 states in three and a half weeks, presenting individual reports for each entity alongside their governors. With the new outreach effort, the administration seeks to demonstrates it’s commitment to direct accountability to the people.

Economic momentum continues

Mexico’s economic relationship with the United States showed resilience despite ongoing trade tensions. Mexican exports to the U.S. continued to grow, reaching a record high of $45.36 billion in July, an 8.2% annual increase. For the first seven months of 2025, Mexican exports to the U.S. totaled $309.75 billion, up 6.5% year-over-year, maintaining Mexico’s position as the United States’ top trading partner.

The financial sector achieved a significant milestone as fintech firm Kapital became Mexico’s latest unicorn, reaching a $1.3 billion valuation after raising $100 million in Series C funding. The achievement comes shortly after Kapital’s acquisition of Intercam Bank, which the U.S. accused of money laundering and sanctioned in June — effectively cutting Intercam off from the U.S. banking system.

Fintech firm Kapital is Mexico’s latest unicorn, valued at over US $1B after acquiring Intercam Bank

Additional business developments included Binance’s announcement of a $53 million investment to expand crypto operations in Mexico and plans for Latin America’s biggest Costco store in Monterrey, reflecting continued international confidence in the Mexican market.

Other notable developments

The week saw various other significant stories. Mexico confirmed that works created by AI cannot be granted copyright protection, placing the country at the forefront of intellectual property discussions surrounding artificial intelligence. Environmental news included reports that Mexico’s jaguar population is making a comeback, offering hope for conservation efforts.

Weather-related challenges included Hurricane Lorena brought heavy rain to Pacific Mexico. The storm failed to make landfall in Baja California as initially predicted, but still caused significant damage and flooding across multiple regions. Security concerns persisted with a state official killed by gunfire on a Guerrero highway and U.S. authorities seizing methamphetamine precursor chemicals linked to the Sinaloa Cartel.

Economic challenges included remittances to Mexico sliding for the fourth consecutive month, while environmental efforts continued with the Nuevo León Congress pushing for polluting steel plants to leave Monterrey.

Looking ahead

The first week of September 2025 established several key themes that will likely define Mexico’s trajectory in the coming months. With the new security cooperation program, Mexico and the United States have a framework for addressing shared challenges while respecting Mexican sovereignty, but whether it results in significant progress remains to be seen.

The launch of Mexico’s democratically elected judiciary marks perhaps the most significant institutional change in the country’s modern history, yet its true impact on governance and rule of law will unfold over years, not months. Similarly, the economic data revealing record export levels amid ongoing trade disputes suggests that Mexico’s integration with North American markets has achieved a resilience that transcends political rhetoric.

Sheinbaum must walk a delicate line between a Mexican public that values sovereignty and a U.S. administration that expects obedience on shared challenges. Her success will ultimately be measured not by diplomatic agreements, but by her ability to extract meaningful concessions from Washington while maintaining the nationalist credentials that underpin her domestic popularity.

Mexico News Daily

This story contains summaries of original Mexico News Daily articles. The summaries were generated by Claude, then revised and fact-checked by a Mexico News Daily staff editor.

Want to join a gym? Read this first

By
Sarah DeVries
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5
A weight rack in a gym
Thinking of working out in Mexico? There's more ways to do that than you might think. (Danielle Cerullo)

Yesterday, I caught up with a friend from home. “I finally got a personal trainer!” she said excitedly. It was something she’d been meaning to do, and it had also meant a fairly large expense. Many, including me, would argue that one’s health — especially if it’s preventative and improves one’s quality of life — is usually worth the expense.

If you want to get in your exercise in Mexico, there are plenty of choices to be had. That said, those choices may be different from what you’re used to! Like most things in Mexico, the more open your mind, the more enjoyable the experience.

A man in Mexico City in shorts, a GAP sweatshirt and a baseball cap jogs through a tree-lined park with two purebred Golden Retrievers on leashes. Behind him in the distance is a man walking a ten-speed bike while talking on his phone.
Get out of the gym and onto the streets. Everybody’s doing it. (Magdalena Montiel/Cuartoscuro)

Free options for exercise

Let’s start with the “free” things like walking, running and hiking. Your opportunities here will really depend on where you happen to live. In Xalapa, for example, there are three man-made lakes in the middle of the city, all with paths around them. There’s even some exercise equipment right by two of them — this same exercise equipment can be found in quite a few public parks, actually.

Are the paths even? No. Does the exercise equipment come with instructions? Also no. But hey, dodging tree roots and trying to figure out where exactly your butt goes are half the fun, right? At least in my city, to avail oneself of the free exercise options is to truly embark on an adventure.

If you’re a runner who likes to “go the distance,” then you’re likely to have more luck in touristy (and well-off) cities that have spaces specifically for that. The city of Veracruz, for example, has a long malecón where you can often spot people riding bikes, on rollerblades, or jogging. It’s nothing I’d personally do in 90-degree weather under a blazing sun, but hey, to each his own!

There are also — if you know where to find them — free Zumba classes. Zumba was all the rage around 10 years ago, but classes have been harder to come by since. You can still sometimes find free public park groups. If you’re not shy about showing off your sweet moves in public, it’s not a bad choice!

Finally, if you’re a hiker, well … try to live somewhere with opportunities for it. Most places have local  Facebook hiking groups and the like, so that’s always a great place to start.

Not quite free activities

Now let’s move to activities that’re “not quite free, but not super expensive” either. This will vary depending on what the cost of living is like where you live. Where I live, it’s quite low, which really just means it’s adjusted to the median wage.

Pairs of middle-aged Mexican couples dancing in a public park in Mexico City.
In Mexico’s cities, it’s not unusual to see free events in outdoor public spaces where folks can dance to live banda, danzón or salsa music. (Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro)

The good thing is that when it comes to opportunities to work out with an expert, the sky is pretty much the limit: yoga, salsa, Danzón, boxing, taekwondo, rock climbing and rollerblading! Right now in my city, “baile africano” is all the rage. I went to a class with a friend a couple of times — it was fun!

The quality of the classes will vary, as will the formality. Sometimes, it just depends on the teacher, the number of interested people, and the spaces available. I’ve had some great classes (baile africano!) and some pretty bad classes (not to be a snob, but I spent 15 straight years as a ballerina; if I can’t learn your hip-hop routine, it’s because your teaching technique sucks).

Again — adventure! Sometimes it’s just about trying things out.

Low-cost gym options

In this category as well, I’d put “low-cost gym options.” These are the types of places that don’t have air conditioning and where you can often spot buckets of water sitting about on rainy days, collecting the drops from the leaky roof.

In my own gym, the floor is a little uneven and the machinery’s a bit worn. But it’s 300 pesos a month and a block from my house, so it’s a winner in my book!

Besides, even low-cost gyms have trainers ready and willing to help you — they simply come with the gym. If you want a really specific day-to-day plan with hyper-explicit goals, you’d need to pay a bit extra. If you just want someone to show you how the machines work and what to do each day to gradually increase your strength, well, that’s what they’re there for! Honestly, I’ve been a member of many of these types of gyms, and the trainers have never been anything but kind and knowledgeable. Many of these gyms also host classes, if aerobics is more your thing, though it’s possible you’ll compete for space during the class, one of my least favorite things to do.

Tres Raíces vineyard
Swimming is a great workout, but it can be pricy if you’re trying to do it in Mexico. (Wine Tourism)

Premium gym options

Last but not least, the “premium” options if you’re willing to spend a bit more money. Again, this can depend quite a bit on where you live. Querétaro, for example, will have a lot more fancy options than a little town in Chiapas will.

If you like to swim, the money you pay to do so will likely be a bit high. There’s a pool around the corner from my house, but so far, I just haven’t been able to make myself feel okay about paying US $60 a month for a mere single visit a week, and only at specific times that I don’t get to choose. Other sports that require a large space, like golf, can also be quite pricey and might necessitate a country club membership. Once, I inquired at a fancy-looking pilates studio, and its prices made my eyes water. 

Racquetball, my dad’s favorite sport, is nowhere to be found, but Squash is at some of the fancier, more expensive gyms — the kinds with air conditioning and toilet paper always in the bathroom (if you want to find a newish YMCA-quality gym, expect to pay top dollar!) But “Padel” is, as is the newly-arrived Pickleball, which I hear is all the rage in the US. Where I live, space and equipment rental runs from around 150 to 200 pesos an hour, making it a very reasonable once-a-week family fun activity. I put it under “premium,” however, because the courts themselves are “gate-kept” in more expensive areas that you need a car to access.

Have I missed things? Certainly, and feel free to tell me about them. In the meantime, be heartened — there are plenty of fun ways to stay in shape here!

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Are you ‘Confidently Wrong’ about Mexican airports? An update from our CEO

By
Travis Bembenek
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11
an aerial photo shows the terminal of Mexico City's canceled airport sinking into Lake Texcoco
Learn more about Mexico City's canceled airport — seen here flooded by the rising waters of Lake Texcoco — on this week's episode of "Confidently Wrong," the new Mexico News Daily podcast. (Travis Bembenek)

I have always enjoyed flying and the hustle and bustle of the whole airport travel experience. It’s fascinating for me to just watch the beehive-type activity of an airport. Planes of every size going to destinations far and wide. And such great people watching — business people, vacationers and families all rushing to get to their flights.

Mexico, of course, is no different. The team at MND frequently covers airport and flight news — a very popular topic with our readers. I have written several times about airports and flying in Mexico over the past two years. I first wrote about how much one can learn about the present and future trajectory of the Mexican economy by just observing the people and the flights at any airport. I discussed how by observing flight destinations, passengers and even inside the airplanes, one can learn so much about what is going on in the country.

I also wrote about the Tulum airport, a project long delayed but then finally constructed and opened in record time. I wanted to see first hand what this new international airport in the middle of the Mayan jungle was like. I felt that the airport, along with the Maya Train, represented the beginning of a new, significantly different chapter for this historically rural, poor and relatively untouched part of the country.

More recently, I wrote about a wonderful experience I had on a domestic flight and the great passenger I was fortunate enough to sit next to. He was flying to Los Cabos with his family to celebrate his 90th birthday and invited my wife and I to a tequila on the flight. In just 90 minutes of conversation, he shared a lifetime of wisdom. It was a flight that I most certainly will never forget.

In today’s column, I want to set up the second episode of MND’s podcast: “Confidently Wrong.” In this episode, we are talking about Mexico’s airports. We begin by discussing the construction and ultimate cancelation of the proposed Texcoco international airport in Mexico City (which currently is under water due to an exceptionally heavy rainy season), as well as the Felipe Angeles International Airport (AIFA), built under the AMLO administration as an alternative to the one canceled. We discuss the impact this has had on other large airports around the country, as well as the building boom taking place in nearly every airport nationwide, and how to make sense of it all.

Since many of you have flown into a Mexican airport at some point, this episode will likely resonate with you. So fasten your seat belts, stow your tray tables and check out episode 2 of MND’s podcast, “Confidently Wrong about Mexican Airports.”

Confidently Wrong Podcast Episode 2: Mexican Airports

You can watch all of the “Confidently Wrong” podcasts on MND’s Youtube channel, Mexico News Daily TV, or by searching “Mexico News Daily” on Spotify. Enjoy and let us know what you think.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.

The colorful legacy of Ricardo Legorreta

By
Chris Sands
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3
Mexico City's Camino Real hotel. (Legorreta + Legorreta)

When the Ricardo Legorreta Vilchis designed Camino Real Polanco hotel opened in Mexico City in 1968, three months before the city hosted the Summer Olympics, it was immediately hailed as an architectural masterpiece. 

Its most arresting singular feature is undoubtedly the “Fountain of Eternal Movement” crafted by famed landscape architect Isamu Noguchi, which, rather than mimicking the serene or stately welcoming fountains customary at other properties, instead provides a welter of violent motion. The hotel’s overall aesthetic, however, is heavily indebted to Legorreta’s creative modernist design sense, and in particular, his passion for vibrant colors.

Architect Ricardo Legorreta, photographed during the design phase of the Camino Real hotel in Mexico City. (Legorreta + Legorreta)

Its often photographed entrance gate, for example, is a vivid magenta-pink latticework set off by a bold yellow adjacent wall. This kind of unmistakable color signature would become a staple of the 100-plus projects — including numerous hotels and museums, as well as private homes and public works — Legoretta designed before he died in 2011, and helped cement his reputation as one of the greatest of all Mexican architects.

Legorreta’s conception of color 

Legorreta’s understanding of color’s ability to evoke emotional responses is something he no doubt learned from his teachers while studying architecture at the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Mexico (UNAM) in the late 1940s and early 1950s. It was certainly fostered by mentors like José Villagrán García, the “father of modern Mexican architecture” and the man who hired him even before he graduated, and also influenced by legendary architect Luis Barragán when the two became friends during the 1960s. 

However, according to Legorreta, the man who most significantly molded his thinking on the topic was Chucho Reyes (born Jesús Reyes Ferreira), the self-taught painter who, like Barragán, hailed from Guadalajara. To Legorreta, Reyes was “the master of color, the one who taught us everything.” Indeed, one has only to look at Reyes’ work to see the bright, brilliant purples, blues, and yellows that would later become touchstones in Legoretta’s designs, from the 10-story purple campanile in Los Angleles’ Pershing Square (1993) to the bold blues that seamlessly integrate the Tech Museum of Innovation in San José, California (1998) into its surrounding environment, and the eye-catching yellows evident in his Casa Greenberg (1991), and in his first landmark Camino Real.

This blending of these vibrant colors into a rich symphony — the artistic term is polychromy — was always intentional in Legorreta’s work, and was meant to serve a specific purpose. As he once noted, color “dramatizes, evokes, produces emotional responses, intensifies personal experience, provides energy to spaces and reinforces their presence.” So sensitive was he to these emotional currents that he would choose colors able to reflect changing moods as the natural light shifted in intensity throughout the hours of each day. 

Such sensitivity would be remarkable in any artist, but it was particularly striking in one brought up in a family of bankers. 

The evolution of Legorreta’s aesthetic

Born into privilege in 1931 as the scion of one of  Mexico’s wealthiest and most socially prominent families, Legorreta could easily have followed in the footsteps of his father, Luis, and uncle Agustín, who founded the country’s biggest bank (BancoMex). But by the time he was a teenager, he knew he wanted to be an architect. After studying at UNAM and spending a little over a decade as an apprentice and later partner of Villagrán, he opened his own company, Legorreta Arquitectos, in 1963. 

A collage of memorable Legorreta designs and architectural accents, including clockwise from left: the Colegio de San Idefonso restoration in Mexico City; a shopping center in Tustin, California; Pershing Square in Los Angeles; the Celanese corporate building in Mexico City; the Museum of Tech Innovation in San José, California; Camino Real Polanco in Mexico City; the Museum of Contemporary Art in Monterrey; and the San Antonio Central Library. (Legorreta + Legorreta)

His first signature design, for an automobile factory in Toluca, was a liberating experience and an assertion of his very Mexican sensibilities. “When I built Automex, it was like an explosion inside me,” he recalled in 1995, per the Los Angeles Times. “A rebellion against all the discipline I had known and the foreign domination of my country. It was like yelling ‘Viva Mexico!’ and ‘Viva the Mexican worker!’”

With the success of the Hotel Camino Real in 1968, he was recognized not just as a promising disciple of Villagrán and Barragán, but as a mature, independent artist. The opening of the hotel was attended by President Gustavo Díaz Ordaz and his uncle Agustín Legorreta López Guerrero. Both were reportedly also investors, his uncle in his then role as president of Banamex. More commissions rolled in, including for other Camino Real hotels in Cancún and Ixtapa. 

Legorreta’s work in the U.S. 

Although most of his designs continued to be located in Mexico, with at least a dozen in his native Mexico City alone, by the 1980s Legorreta was also increasingly receiving commissions from international sources. These raised his global profile, but also brought controversy, as critics in other countries, like the U.S., weren’t always as at ease with his distinctly Mexican design philosophy. Purple walls at his design for the $90 million Tustin Market Place shopping center in California in the mid-1980s, for instance, were decried by the town’s mayor as “too garish, too oppressive,” obliging Legorreta to replace them with a more acceptable ocher hue.  

“The incident taught me something about the profound differences that lie beneath the surface similarities Southern California shares with my homeland,” Legorreta admitted at the time. “Though the climate and topography are similar, and also much of the cultural heritage, California society is simultaneously more confident and less bold than ours, and this difference is reflected in the architecture.”

Indeed, few architects have ever embraced boldness like Legorreta, especially when it came to color. And lest one thinks the Tustin incident caused him to reconsider his principles, his Pershing Square project in Los Angeles a few years later centered around a 125-foot-tall purple bell tower. That too was controversial, but he never considered changing it. 

Legoretta’s death and legacy

For the last 20 years of his life, Ricardo Legorreta collaborated with his son Victor. Since his death from liver cancer at the age of 80 in 2011, Victor has continued his father’s legacy via Legorreta + Legorreta. It’s hard to imagine anyone matching Ricardo’s flair for color, but based on the stunning collaboratively designed Papalote Children’s Museum — only four kilometers from the Camino Real in Mexico City — an eye for color may be a talent that runs in the family, just as banking once did. 

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

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