Thursday, April 24, 2025

What to check before you rent that really cool place in Mexico

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Ask the landlord how to work the hot water heater. It might be very different from what you are used to. Check the temperature, too. (Drazen Zigic/Freepik)

As mentioned in the previous article, your experiences may vary. So much depends on where you rent and who you are renting from. However, some issues are common enough that they warrant being discussed. So, let’s talk about some legal and quality-of-life issues that might affect you.

What is a “fiador” or “aval”?

The biggest challenge for foreign rentals is Mexican landlords’ need to have some kind of firm assurance that rent will be paid.

The most common way to do this is to have a guarantor who may be called a “fiador” or an “aval”. Essentially, this person owns property in the area you wish to rent and is willing to cosign the lease, using the property as collateral. 

This is nearly impossible for foreigners (and most out-of-town Mexican renters). The requirement comes, in part, from the cultural assumption that the renter has a local family willing to do this. This belief persists even in Mexico City, which has absorbed millions of people from other parts of the country for about a century.

In rare cases, employers will act as “fiadors” (generally to landlords they know).

Alternatives to a “fiador”

In Mexico overall, it is still pretty rare to find landlords willing to take the first/last/deposit scenario that is common in the U.S. It seems to be easier in areas with a long history of renting to foreigners, such as Lake Chapala and San Miguel de Allende, and Edyta Norejko of ForHousse real estate says “it is slowly getting easier in the Roma/Condesa area of Mexico City as well.” 

But other options may exist if your landlord does not accept such an arrangement.

The least expensive overall is to pay months of rent in advance. How many months of rent will depend on your landlord and your negotiating skills. I know several people in Mexico City who do this, paying about six months in advance on average.

If that does not work, you have two options. In all cases, tenants must pay these fees.

  1. Some companies will act as a fiador, or issue a rent insurance policy called a “fianza”. These are expensive, up to 10% of a year’s rent.
  2. Increasingly popular is a kind of background check called a “póliza jurídica”. Done by certain law firms, they check your immigration status, income, and references you provide. Their popularity comes from the price, generally only 30-50% of one month’s rent. Just ensure your references know that if there is a problem with the landlord, they do not have legal obligations to pay anything.

Do I need a rental agreement?

The answer is yes, but don’t naively believe that said contract will always be followed to the letter. 

Rental contracts will almost certainly be in Spanish, even if the owner and renter are foreigners. These contracts mostly consist of familiar clauses, but it is best to have someone review them in detail with you for your first contract. One common point is that while tenants pay the utilities (not unusual), they are unlikely to be allowed to put those utilities in their names (except for the Internet). One reason for this is that changing the name on an electric or water bill is an absolute bureaucratic nightmare.

Whether it is in the rental agreement or not, there is a good chance your landlord will insist on payment in cash (and for the reasons you suspect). Get a receipt to protect yourself.

Now, about sticking to the agreement

Any contract is better than “he said, she said,” but how much a landlord follows the contract can depend on their assessment of how much you are willing to enforce it. If you are from a culture that assumes the landlord fixes every bit of maintenance and other tenant problems, which is important to you, you must be prepared to live in an upscale neighborhood.  

The biggest issue here is the security deposit. I already knew this from experience, but inquiries online blew up my social media networks.

I had more than a few responses from people who got their security deposit back just fine. But the most common answer is that in Mexico, no matter what the rental agreement says, you do not pay the last month’s rent because if you do, you will not get the deposit back, no matter how clear the contract may be about the deposit not being used for rent payment. You essentially have three options: 1) assume you won’t get the deposit back, 2) don’t pay the last month’s rent (some people report issues with landlords over this, but not many, and 3) investigate the landlord thoroughly to see if deposits are returned. (The Ajijic area has a Facebook group to share information about landlords.)

The other issue is maintenance. Again, standard contracts put the responsibility for routine work on the landlord, but in many cases, the tenant will wind out doing minor repairs as it is easier than a drawn-out fight with the landlord. 

Pets

Twenty years ago, I would have told you unequivocally that finding a rental is not a problem if you have pets, even with multiple/larger animals. Today, your options may be narrowed, especially in furnished places or more upscale ones with amenities. You will find one, but you may have to trade off to have your fur babies with you.

Noise

Mexicans generally are more tolerant of noise than many of us from north of the border and Europe. At the very least, you will hear fireworks from patron saint celebrations and perhaps street parties. This is more true in middle, lower-class, and rural neighborhoods than in upscale developments. Check out your prospective neighborhood at night, especially on weekends, to get a feel for this.

Water

Mexico is one of the major consumers of bottled water in the world, so one of the most accessible services to contract is the delivery of huge returnable jugs called “garrafones”. Very few Mexican or foreigner people drink water straight from the tap. Cooking with it depends on several variables. Water in your faucet is not directly from municipal pipes but from rooftop tanks (“tinacos”) or underground cisterns for each building. The question becomes, “How often are these cleaned?” By the way, this water delivery system is why your shower water pressure may be nowhere near home.

A list of questions

It is impossible to cover every possible issue here, but here are a few more things to consider. 

  1. Garbage pick-up arrangements vary a lot. Some are very efficient, but others can be informal and/or assume someone is always at home.
  2. There is a good chance that your place will need more electrical outlets. Power strips and the like are easy to find.
  3. Kitchens in urban areas tend to be smaller and not eat-in, especially in newer construction. 
  4. Mosquito screens seem to not be a thing in the mountains of central Mexico. These areas don’t have the same issues as the coasts, but mosquitos do appear during the rainy season. 
  5. Ask the landlord how to work the water heater. It might be very different from what you are used to. Check the temperature, too… (If there is solar water heating it is a definite plus)
  6. Last but not least, ask if your building’s plumbing can handle toilet paper. You would be surprised how many cannot.

Let me end by repeating that not all these considerations will apply to all rental prospects, but they have applied enough for enough people to be worth keeping in mind.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Ann Marie Jackson presents ‘The Broken Hummingbird’ in San Miguel de Allende

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Ann Marie Jackson is co-founder of microlending organization Mano Amiga and former Vice President of Casita Linda, which builds homes for families living in extreme poverty in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. (Photos courtesy of Ann Marie Jackson)

The unveiling of Ann Marie Jackson’s latest work, “The Broken Hummingbird,” marked an extraordinary literary event in the city of San Miguel de Allende. This captivating novel delves into the depths of a mother’s love, transcending all boundaries, in a world where the haunting specter of domestic violence casts a long shadow over every stratum of society.

The launch was an evening of art and community engagement held at Casa Proserpina. The event included a reading, music by the local band Hot Tamales and personalized book signings by the author.

Cover The Broken Hummingbird. (Photos courtesy of Ann Marie Jackson)

With a vivid and colorful intensity, Ann Marie offers a raw and unvarnished portrayal of San Miguel de Allende, capturing the essence of its remarkable traditions and the rich tapestry of a community composed of individuals from every corner of the globe. Within this narrative, she also delves into the excruciating pain of loss, a theme that resonates deeply within the human experience. “The Broken Hummingbird” is a novel that pierces the soul, inviting readers to feel its narrative with every fiber of their being.

“The Broken Hummingbird” tells the story of Jane, a woman grappling with a crumbling marriage and the looming threat of a custody battle, her deepest fear. In an audacious move, she persuades her husband, Kevin, to break free from the suffocating pressures of New York, which include her high-stress job and an affair that nearly came to fruition. Her grand hope, like many others who move in the hopes of starting over, is that relocating will provide the remedy needed to heal their fractured family.

San Miguel de Allende becomes the backdrop for this journey, where she and her young sons find solace and adventure, even as Kevin’s simmering resentment threatens to overshadow their newfound happiness. Jane forges bonds with a circle of women, and extends her help to two young girls who remind her of the brother she abandoned when her parents went through a painful divorce. However, as she witnesses the violence surrounding these girls, her once-vivid dreams take on a dark and unsettling hue, possibly guided by a hummingbird messenger from the great beyond.

Ann Marie, as both a woman and an activist, adds her unique perspective to the tapestry of her storytelling. She identifies herself as a mother and an immigrant to Mexico, and she unapologetically uses her writing as a vehicle for change, – sometimes as a form of therapy – and as a means of expressing herself and forging connections with her audience.

The launch was felt by attendees as an evening of art and community engagement held at Casa Proserpina. (Photos courtesy of Ann Marie Jackson)

Ann Marie’s involvement in the San Miguel de Allende community is substantial, and she actively collaborates with nonprofit organizations dedicated to improving the lives of women and children. Additionally, she works alongside advocates who raise their voices against violence directed at women. In a beautiful demonstration of her commitment to the local community, Ann Marie has pledged that a portion of the proceeds from “The Broken Hummingbird” will be donated to two non-profit organizations in San Miguel de Allende: Mano Amiga and Casita Linda, enhancing the book’s impact by contributing to the welfare of those in need.

“The Broken Hummingbird” is not just a literary work; it is a profound exploration of the human experience, illuminated by Ann Marie’s unique vantage point as a woman, activist, mother, and immigrant. It’s a novel that promises to resonate deeply with readers, invoking a range of emotions and thoughts that will linger long after the final page is turned.

Camila Sánchez Bolaño is a journalist, feminist, bookseller, lecturer, and cultural promoter and is Editor in Chief of Newsweek en Español magazine.

New route to never-before-seen Quintana Roo natural wonders

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An overhead shot of under-construction stop of the Maya Train, surrounded by rainforest.
The project has faced opposition from environmentalists over the environmental cost to Yucatán peninsula ecosystems and hydrology.(Facebook @MaraLezamaOficial)

Governor of Quintana Roo Mara Lezama Espinosa announced the Beyond the Sun route, a new tourism project that seeks to create economic opportunities in less-visited areas of the state, particularly Lázaro Cárdenas municipality.

During Monday’s presidential morning press conference, Lezama said that the new tourist route will be a great opportunity to boost the economy of Lázaro Cárdenas and to improve the region’s connectivity.

A man stretches his arms out in front of a massive tree with a trunk at least double his wingspan.
Solferino’s Millennial Tree, also known as the Tree of Life, is an ancient ceiba tree in the town of Solferino. (Facebook / Árboles extraordinarios de Yucatán)

“With an environmental and socioeconomic perspective, this project will allow the millions of people who visit #QuintanaRoo to explore archaeological sites, cenotes, underground rivers, caves, artisan workshops, flora, fauna, gastronomy, and adventure tourism,” Lezama wrote on Twitter.

Where is the Beyond the Sun route?

The Beyond the Sun route will cover the northern area of Quintana Roo. It will pass through villages such as Pacchen, Nuevo Xcán, Nuevo Durango, El Cedral, Kantunilkín, Solferino and the port city of Chiquilá, near Holbox island.

What are the tourist attractions on the route?

The route will include interpretive nature trails, a lagoon and the Jaguar Cenote in Pacchen, Lezama said. In Nuevo Xcán, visitors can explore its underground rivers, cenotes and participate in colorful wood art workshops.

Nuevo Durango will attract visitors interested in the Tumben Kuxtal cavern (Mayan for “new life”) and the Chulub Chac organic garden. It will also host embroidery and hammock weaving workshops.

In El Cedral, tourists will visit the Tres Lagunas lagoon system and the deer conservation reserve.

The municipal seat of Kantunilkín will showcase the region’s gastronomy with a variety of traditional dishes, prepared by Maya women.

A man in a baseball cap sits in a canoe in a flooded forest.
Visitors paddle through the cork forest of El Corchal. (Facebook El Corchal Solferino)

The Millennial Tree, a sacred tree of over 750 years of age, will be a tourist attraction in Solferino, as well as its orchid garden and the El Corchal wetland.

Finally, the Chiquilá port will become a tourist and commercial destination where people traveling to Holbox will be able to buy artisanal pieces from local producers.

How is the route related to the Maya Train?

Lezama said that the new route is a key component of Section 4 of the Maya Train as Nuevo Xcán will be home to one of the train’s stations.

This week, the government said that Section 4 is now focusing on completing the route’s five stations, which are over 80% finished, as the Maya Train prepares to start operations in less than 60 days.

With reports by Milenio and La Jornada Maya

Surprising findings from poll on US-Mexico relations

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U.S. and Mexico flags
The U.S. is the country with the most foreign direct investment in Mexico.(Shutterstock)

A strong majority of people in the United States believe that the U.S. and Mexico have equal responsibility for stopping illegal immigration and drug trafficking, yet only 16% see Mexico as a close ally, according to the results of a recent poll.

Still, 52% of respondents believe that the United States has a friendly relationship with Mexico, and close to seven in 10 have a favorable view of Mexican immigrants living legally in the U.S.

National Guard detain migrants
According to the poll, most Americans think the U.S. and Mexico share responsibility for border security. (Cuartoscuro)

The findings come from a survey conducted by The Pearson Institute for the Study and Resolution of Global Conflicts at the University of Chicago and The Associated Press-NORC Center for Public Affairs Research. A total of 1,191 adults from all 50 U.S. states and the District of Columbia completed the survey online or by telephone in late September.

Let’s delve into the results.

Most Americans believe governing the border is a shared responsibility 

Almost three-quarters of respondents – 73% – believe that the U.S. and Mexican governments have equal responsibility for preventing the flow of illegal narcotics into the United States.

US Customs and Border Patrol
U.S. Customs and Border Patrol officers in Calexico, California. (CBP/Flickr)

One in 10 said that the Mexican government should have more responsibility, while 11% believe the greater onus should be on the U.S. government.

Almost two-thirds of those polled – 64% – said that preventing Mexicans from entering the United States illegally is a shared responsibility, while 63% said the same with regard to immigrants from other countries seeking to enter the U.S. from Mexico.

About one in ten respondents said that the Mexican government should have more responsibility for stopping illegal immigration to the United States, while 18% indicated that the U.S. government should take the leading role.

A strong majority – 62% – said that the Mexican government should have the greatest responsibility for combating organized crime in Mexico, but 30% believe that both governments should have an equal responsibility.

Ron DeSantis
Florida governor Ron DeSantis is vying for the Republican nomination to run in 2024, but is polling behind former president Donald Trump. (Shutterstock)

“We should be working hand in hand with Mexico to take the cartels down,” said Kris Bennefield, a 41-year-old respondent from San Augustine, Texas.

Just 3% of respondents said that the U.S. government should take the lead in the fight against Mexican cartels on Mexican soil.

Some Republican Party politicians have advocated the use of the United States military against Mexican cartels in Mexico. Florida Governor Ron DeSantis, for example, has pledged to make immediate use of the United States military to combat Mexican cartels in Mexico if he becomes U.S. president.

The U.S. and Mexican governments say they are cooperating closely on shared security challenges, including the fentanyl problem, arms trafficking and migration.

Mexico a friend, but not a close ally?

Asked to describe the relationship between the United States and Mexico, only 16% of respondents said the two countries are close allies. That figure rose to 25% among people who identified as Hispanic.

Just over half – 52% – said that the U.S. and Mexico have a friendly relationship but are not close allies, while 25% said that the two countries are not friendly but not enemies. One in 20 respondents described the U.S. and Mexico as enemies.

The pollsters noted that “Democrats are more likely to describe Mexico as a close ally compared to Republicans (21% vs. 13%).”

Respondents were also asked to describe the United States’ relationship with Canada, and 62% said that the two countries are close allies – almost four times the number who said the same about the U.S. and Mexico.

Alicia Bárcena and Antony Blinken
Alicia Bárcena highlighted the “unprecedented relationship” between the two countries on her recent visit to Washington, D.C. (Antony Blinken/Twitter)

The view of most ordinary United States citizens differs from that of U.S. officials, who have emphasized the closeness of the relationship with Mexico.

During a press conference at the conclusion of the 2023 Mexico-U.S. High Level Security Dialogue in Mexico City earlier this month, Secretary of State Antony Blinken said that “more than ever before” in his 30 years of experience in foreign policy, “the United States and Mexico are working together as partners in common purpose.”

What Mexico-related foreign policy goals should the U.S. prioritize?

Survey respondents were asked to offer an opinion on how important it is for the United States to:

  1. Prevent illegal immigration across the United States-Mexico border.
  2. Create more opportunities for legal immigration from Mexico to the United States.
  3. Increase trade with Mexico.
  4. Reduce inequality and poverty in Mexico.

Just over eight in 10 respondents believe that preventing illegal immigration is extremely, very or somewhat important, while 74% said the same about the creation of legal immigration opportunities.

The survey found that 93% of Republicans see stopping illegal immigration as an important goal, whereas the figure for Democrats was 72%. Almost six in 10 Democrats – 57% – said that creating more opportunities for legal immigration was extremely or very important, while just 25% of Republicans said the same.

migrants trying to cross Mexico-US border
Migrants attempting to cross the Mexico-U.S. border in Ciudad Juárez. (Nacho Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

Just over three-quarters of respondents said that increasing trade with Mexico – which is currently the United States’ largest trade partner – was important, but only 31% considered it an extremely or very important goal.

Reducing inequality and poverty in Mexico – which data shows is already happening – was seen as the least important goal for the United States. Just over six in 10 respondents said that it was an extremely, very or somewhat important goal, while one-third of those polled said that reducing inequality and poverty in Mexico was “not at all “or “not too important.”

What do Americans think of Mexicans in the U.S.?

About seven in 10 respondents – 69% – said they had a very or somewhat favorable view of Mexican immigrants living legally in the United States, with most of the remainder impartial. That figure rose to 75% among Democrats.

In contrast, just 20% of those polled said they had a favorable opinion of Mexicans living in the U.S. illegally. Almost half said they had a very or somewhat unfavorable view of undocumented Mexicans, while just over a quarter said their opinion was neither favorable or unfavorable.

Exactly three-quarters of Republicans expressed an unfavorable opinion on Mexicans living illegally in the United States, while the figure for Democrats was a much lower 30%.

Rio Grande floating barrier
The state of Texas (governed by Republican Greg Abbott) installed a floating barrier in the Rio Grande to prevent migrants from crossing, which Mexico strongly opposed. The survey found 75% of Republicans had an unfavorable opinion of Mexicans living illegally in the U.S. (U.S. Customs and Border Patrol)

The Associated Press reported that 10 million Mexican (legal and illegal) immigrants are estimated to live in the United States.

Dan Allstun, a Republican and a resident of Los Angeles, expressed concern about people residing in the U.S. and not paying taxes.

However, AP reported that “experts have said that immigrants who are in the country illegally pay sales taxes and that very significant numbers of them also have federal and state tax withholding in their paychecks.”

Allstun, a retired utility company worker, said his belief was that most immigrants to the U.S. are fleeing poor economic conditions in their countries of origin, rather than out of concern for their safety.

“It’s not that these people are bad. They’re coming here for economic reasons. However, it becomes quite difficult for our country to control,” he said.

Opinions on Mexican culture and the Mexican government 

About two-thirds of respondents said they had a favorable view of Mexican culture, but only 12% said the same about the Mexican government, which is currently led by the popular – yet divisive – President López Obrador. Almost four in 10 respondents expressed an unfavorable view of the Mexican government, while 39% said they didn’t have a favorable or unfavorable opinion on the federal administration.

President López Obrador with U.S. President Biden at a July meeting in Washington, D.C.
President López Obrador with U.S. President Biden at a July 2022 meeting in Washington, D.C. (Presidencia de la República)

López Obrador and President Joe Biden have maintained a cordial relationship, despite the existence of disputes between their respective governments, including on Mexican energy and corn policy. The two leaders are set to met in San Francisco next month for the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Summit.

Engagement with Mexicans and Mexican culture 

Over 80% of respondents said they regularly or occasionally interact with people of Mexican heritage in the United States. Six in ten said they engage with Mexican culture in the U.S., although only 13% said they do so on a regular basis.

Those who engage with Mexican culture were more likely to have favorable views on Mexican culture, Mexicans living both legally and illegally in the U.S. and the Mexican government than those who don’t.

The survey found that 53% of respondents have never traveled to Mexico, while 5% regularly visit the country and 41% occasionally make their way south of the border.

Views on the survey results and the U.S.-Mexico relationship 

Benjamin Lessing, an associate professor of political science at the University of Chicago and faculty affiliate of the Pearson Institute, told AP that “for two countries that are such close neighbors, so intertwined in each others’ lives, and have been for so long, there’s still room to grow.”

Guadalupe Correa-Cabrera, a professor at Virginia’s George Mason University who specializes in U.S.-Mexico relations, commented on the results about governance of the border.

Cinco de mayo celebration in Washington, D.C.
Around two-thirds respondents had a favorable opinion of Mexican culture. (Wikimedia Commons)

“There’s a big part of the population that recognizes the importance and the big effort that the two nations are making to work together,” she said.

Correa-Cabrera also spoke about Mexican cultural influence north of the border and the use of immigration and border issues for political purposes.

“Mexico is part of the American culture,” she said, apparently acknowledging the ubiquitousness of things such as Mexican food, beverages, music and art in parts of the United States.

“The politicization of the issues of immigration and border security and how they are used to divide and conquer in elections … [differs] from the realistic perspective of who Americans are in their day-to-day lives,” Correa-Cabrera added.

With reports from AP

Hurricane Norma downgraded to Category 3 on path to Baja California

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Storm approaches the Baja California Sur coast
Baja California Sur prepares for the arrival of Hurricane Norma, expected to make landfall by Saturday. (Cuartoscuro)

With maximum sustained winds of almost 200 kilometers per hour, Hurricane Norma is bearing down on the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula.

Norma – now a Category 3 storm after reaching Category 4 status on Thursday – was 310 kilometers south of Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur (BCS), at 3 p.m. Mexico City time, according to a United States National Hurricane Center (NHC) advisory.

Hurricane Norma
The hurricane was downgraded from Category 4 to Category 3 on Friday. (Conagua Clima)

The NHC said that the hurricane had maximum sustained winds of 195 km/h and was moving north-northwest at 13 km/h.

“On the forecast track, Norma is expected to move over the southern portion of Baja California Sur within the hurricane warning area on Saturday,” the Florida-based forecaster said.

“Norma is forecast to move toward the west coast of Mexico on Sunday and Sunday night and move inland within the tropical storm watch area on Monday.”

A hurricane warning is in effect for Todos Santos on the southwest coast of BCS to Los Barriles on the southeast coast. A tropical storm warning is in effect north of Los Barriles to San Evaristo and north of Todos Santos to Santa Fe.

Path of Hurricane Norma
The storm will move over Baja California Sur on Saturday and is expected to weaken further as it moves inland. (Conagua Clima)

A tropical storm watch is in effect for Las Islas Marías off the coast of Nayarit and between Topolobampo, Sinaloa, and Bahía Tempehuaya in the same state.

In the hurricane warning area, “preparations to protect life and property should be
rushed to completion,” the NHC said.

It said that “some gradual weakening is expected during the next day or so, but Norma is expected to be a hurricane when it moves near or over the southern portion of Baja California Sur.”

“Weakening is forecast to continue through early next week,” the NHC added.

Fishermen at Puntos Lobos beach, Todos Santos.
Puntos Lobos beach in Todos Santos. (Archive)

With regard to wind, the center said that hurricane conditions are expected within the hurricane warning area in BCS on Saturday, with tropical storm conditions to start Friday night.

The NHC said that Norma is likely to produce rainfall totals of 5-10 inches (12-25 cm) with local maximums of 15 inches (38 cm) across the far southern portion of BCS through Sunday and across parts of Sinaloa through Monday.

“These rains will likely produce flash and urban flooding, along with possible mudslides in areas of higher terrain,” it said.

“A storm surge could produce coastal flooding in areas of onshore winds within the hurricane warning area. Near the coast, the surge will be accompanied by large and destructive waves,” the NHC said.

It also said that “life-threatening surf and rip current conditions” were likely along the coast of western Mexico and the Baja California peninsula this weekend.

Beaches have already been closed in the municipality of Los Cabos, and sea navigation as well as port, tourism, sporting and fishing activities are “restricted,” according to federal Civil Protection authorities.

Storm damage Guerrero
Damage on the coastline near Acapulco caused by Tropical Storm Max earlier this month. (CARLOS CARBAJAL/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Authorities have set up numerous shelters in BCS, including in the municipalities of Los Cabos, La Paz and Comondú. Schools in Los Cabos were closed on Friday.

President López Obrador said earlier this week that the army had prepared an emergency plan ahead of Norma’s expected arrival in BCS. He warned on Wednesday that the storm was heading directly for Los Cabos, one of Mexico’s most popular tourism destinations.

Norma is the 14th named storm of the 2023 Pacific hurricane season. Its formation came after Hurricane Lidia made landfall as a Category 4 storm in Jalisco on Oct. 10. Tropical Storm Max touched down in Guerrero the previous day. Those two storms claimed at least three lives, toppled trees and damaged scores of homes.

Mexico News Daily 

Cream of the crop: A little Mexican ‘crema’ goes a long way

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Crema is the perfect topping for chilaquiles, quesadillas, tacos, and enchiladas and is a cooling addition to spicy soups or nachos. (Daniel Lloyd / Unsplash)

In Mexican cuisine, rich, velvety “crema” is the finishing touch for a smorgasbord of dishes. Most often it’s used to tone down spicy foods, and you’ll find it drizzled on tacos and fajitas, dolloped on papas locas and enchiladas. Small bowls of finger-licking good crema are frequently part of a salsa bar, right there with the guacamole and sliced radishes. But crema’s real glory is as a creamy and slightly tangy addition to soups, stews, and other recipes where you might not know it’s there.

It’s taken me years to understand how Mexican crema is different than the sour cream I was used to. And while it’s true that in many ways they’re interchangeable, there are a few significant differences worth knowing.

Watermelon Gazpacho with Chili Crema. (Pinterest)

Is Mexican crema the same as sour cream, yogurt, or crème fraiche

The short answer is no. Each is made with a slightly different process and ingredients, resulting in distinct flavors, textures and that all-important mouth feel. With a fat content of 30%, Mexican crema is richer than yogurt but thinner than sour cream, with a light, tangy, almost sweet taste. In a word, it’s delicious.

The French crème fraiche is cultured cream from a specific bacterial culture with a very high (and delicious) fat content. Yogurt, made with either full-, low-, or nonfat milk is also cultured with specific live probiotic-rich cultures, although some commercial brands use thickeners to emulate an actual cultured product. (So-called “Greek” yogurt is simply regular yogurt with most of the watery whey strained out.)

Mexican crema is also a cultured product but made with a mix of heavy cream and buttermilk or cultured sour cream, a little salt, and lime or lemon juice to turn it. The best brands will have no other ingredients and won’t be ultra-pasteurized, a process that kills the live cultures that give crema its distinctive flavor and texture. They may cost a little more but are well worth the few extra pesos! The same holds true for sour cream, so be sure to read the labels. 

How do I use crema

The sky’s the limit! Crema is the perfect topping for chilaquiles, quesadillas, tacos, and enchiladas and is a cooling addition to spicy soups or nachos. Use it just about anywhere you would use sour cream, like on baked potatoes or in creamy salad dressings or dips. It works as a substitute for sour cream in baking, too. Crema is also the essential ingredient in the Mexican classic, “pastel de atún” or tuna cake.

One of the best things about Mexican crema is that it doesn’t curdle when heated (gently), making it ideal for thickening soups or adding to hot dishes. Its rich, delicate flavor tones down hot spicy foods and is a welcome accompaniment to many classic Mexican dishes.

One caveat: Mexican crema will not whip like heavy cream. That said, can you put a spoonful on a piece of warm apple pie or on top of roast sweet potato or plantain? Absolutely!

Watermelon Gazpacho with Chili Crema

  • 6 cups watermelon, diced
  • 2-3 tomatoes, diced
  • 1 cucumber, diced
  • ½ red onion, diced
  • ½ cup toasted slivered almonds 
  • 1 Tbsp. salt
  • 1½ tsp. black pepper
  • 2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar 
  • ¼ cup olive oil 
  • 1/3 cup crema 
  • 1 Tbsp. chopped jalapeno peppers, or to taste
  • 2-4 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro, mint, or parsley, or a combination
  • Garnish: Additional diced vegetables and herbs
  • In a large bowl, toss watermelon, tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, almonds, salt, and pepper. Set aside to marinate 1 hour.

In a blender, working in batches, purée vegetables and their liquid until smooth and creamy. Transfer soup to a large bowl. Whisk in 2 Tbsp. fresh herbs, vinegar and oil. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.

Cover soup and chill in refrigerator for two hours or up to 3 days. When ready to serve, adjust salt and pepper again. Combine crema and chopped chilies in a small bowl. Ladle chilled soup into bowls and garnish with crema mixture, remaining fresh herbs and diced vegetables.

Potato and Jicama Salad

  • ½ cup mayonnaise
  • ¼ cup. crema
  • 1 Tbsp. lemon or lime juice
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • ¼t sp. ground black pepper
  • 1¼ lb. potatoes, peeled, cut into ¾ -inch chunks
  • 1 cup jicama, peeled, diced 
  • 1 green bell pepper, chopped
  • 1 jalapeno pepper, minced
  • Garnish: Chopped fresh cilantro or parsley

Boil potatoes until tender-firm; drain and cool. In a large bowl, combine mayonnaise, crema, lemon/lime juice, salt and pepper. Stir in remaining ingredients, then fold in potatoes. Garnish with fresh herbs if desired. 

Tater Tot Nachos

  • 4 cups tater tots
  • ½ cup shredded Manchego, Chihuahua or other melting cheese
  • ½ cup shredded cooked chicken 
  • ½ cup salsa of choice
  • 2 Tbsp. canned chopped jalapenos
  • 2-4 Tbsp. crema
  • Chopped fresh cilantro

Cook tater tots as directed on package. Preheat oven to 350F/177C. Spray a baking sheet lightly with oil. Pile cooked tater tots in the center of baking sheet, top with cheese and chicken. Place into oven until cheese melts. Remove and top as desired.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

5 facts every mezcal lover should know, in honor of National Mezcal Day

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Mezcal is traditionally served with orange slices and sal de gusano (worm salt). (Marcos Castillo via Shutterstock)

Since 2017, Mexico has celebrated National Mezcal Day on Oct. 20 to recognize the Mexican agave spirit that gained popularity in recent years.

To celebrate, various cities will host activities to honor mezcal, a beverage that ancient civilizations considered to be for the gods and the royalty.

A poster for Mezcal Fest México showing a cartoon agave and the dates November 3-5.
Mezcal Fest México is scheduled for early November in Mexico City. (Facebook @MezcalFestMexico)

Some of the activities in the calendar include Mezcal Fest México 2023 in Mexico City’s Condesa neighborhood from Nov. 3 to 5, and the Feria del Mezcal y Cerveza (Mezcal and Beer Fair), a Day of the Dead-themed event at the Tlatelolco Convention Center, on Oct. 28 and 29.

Here are five interesting facts about mezcal you should know.

1. Mezcal is made from various types of agave

All mezcal is 100% agave (also known as maguey) and is obtained by distilling juices that have been fermented with either naturally-occurring or cultured microorganisms. No other sugar source may be added during fermentation.

Rows of gray-green agave plants grow in a dry field, with mountains behind.
Maguey espadín (Agave angustifolia) is an agave species commonly used to make mezcal. (Thayne Tuason CC BY 4.0)

In Oaxaca, the preferred term for agave is “maguey.” Any type of maguey can be used to make mezcal. There are approximately 40 maguey varietals that are believed to have sufficient fermentable carbohydrates to be considered viable sources of mezcal.

2. Mezcal is produced in nine states in Mexico

While Oaxaca is recognized as the largest producer of mezcal, the spirit is also produced in eight other states: Zacatecas, Durango, Guerrero, Michoacán, Puebla, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato and Tamaulipas.

These nine states hold the Denomination of Origin (DO) to produce mezcal, a designation that refers to products specific to a particular region. Any mezcal must be distilled within the DO, prohibiting other regions’ distillates from using the name.

A map of Mexico with the states of Zacatecas, Durango, Guerrero, Michoacán, San Luis Potosí, Guanajuato and Tamaulipas highlighted in green.
Agave spirits produced in nine certified states can be sold as mezcal. (X @COMERCAM_AC)

3. The mezcal market has grown 25%-30% annually since 2010

In addition to being an iconic spirit in Mexico, mezcal is also an important driver of economic growth.

The mezcal market has experienced consistent growth since 2010, with impressive annual increases of 25% to 30%. Despite the global pandemic’s impact on many industries, the industry of mezcal maintained a growth rate of 3% even during the most critical moments of 2020 and 2021, according to Héctor Hernández, Director of Institutional Relations for the Mexican Mezcal Regulatory Council.

This pace of growth is unusual in any industry, Hernández told the newspaper El Economista. Although the growth pace is difficult to maintain, mezcal is gaining ground in national and international markets, he added.

4. Mexico exported 6.4 million liters of mezcal in 2022

According to figures from the Economy Ministry (SE), the international market is the leading destination for Mexican mezcal. In 2022, the SE reported that the country exported 6.4 million liters through 331 commercial brands, of which 5.5 million were destined for the United States.

5. 89% of Mexican mezcal is categorized as “artisanal”

Most of the mezcal that is certified by the Norma Oficial Mexicana (NOM) on mezcal is considered “artisanal,” meaning the use of column stills, diffusers and autoclaves is not allowed in its production.

With reports by El Economista, El Economista, Secretaría de Economía, Experience Agave

Mexico City expects revenue boom during Day of the Dead

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The projected revenue of this year's celebrations represents a 60% increase over 2022. (Shutterstock)

Mexico City’s Day of the Dead festivities are expected to generate over 11 billion pesos in revenue this year, 60% more than in 2022.

“In 2023, activities related to the Day of the Dead will generate revenue of 11.2 billion pesos (US $623 million),” Economic Development Minister Fadlala Akabani Hneide said in a press conference.

Preparations are under way for Mexico City's Day of the Dead parades.
Preparations are underway for Mexico City’s Day of the Dead festivities, which are expected to generate major revenue this year. (Photo: Archive)

He added that this represents an increase of 4.3 billion pesos (US $238 million) from last year, which Akabani recognized as a “vast difference.”

The figure comprises hotel bookings for the Day of the Dead weekend – which are expected to boost Mexico City’s hotel occupancy to 85% – as well as ticket sales for events and consumption related to the celebrations.

“Tourists who arrive at hotels in the city will generate revenue of 2 billion pesos (US $109 million), 18% more than in 2022,” Akabani said. “In addition, five million local visitors are expected to generate revenue of 1.7 billion pesos (US $93 million).”

A further 4.3 billion pesos (US $238 million) is expected to come from sales of materials for offerings, including 65 million pesos (US $3.56 million) from sales of marigold flowers (cempasúchil) which are traditionally placed on altars to the dead. Costumes and accessories are expected to generate nearly 1.2 billion pesos (US $65 million).

Pan de muerto
Mexico City foodies can enjoy a range of pan de muerto events, with unconventional reinterpretations of the traditional snack. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

Abakani said that these revenues would benefit around 160,000 small businesses, employing a total of 700,000 people.

“This revenue generates employment, [and] strengthens the economic units that exist in the city: lunch shops, cafeterias, beauty salons, costume and stationary stores, all participate in some way in the Day of the Dead activities,” Abakani said.

In total, around 300,000 tourists and 5.2 million locals are expected to attend the Day of the Dead celebrations, spending 1.9 billion pesos (US $104 million) on cultural events.

Many of the most popular Day of the Dead festivities are free to the public, including the parade of the “Catrina” skeletons on Oct. 22 and the big Nov. 4 Day of the Dead parade that has been held annually since 2015 down Paseo de La Reforma. But many ticketed events are also on offer, including the Pan de Muerto Fest in the Zócalo on Oct. 21, Disney’s Coco Festival at the Plaza de Toros on Nov. 3 and 4, and multiple showings of the famous “La Llorona” performance in Xochimilco.

The catrinas are preparing for the Day of the Dead in Mexico City.
Day of the Dead festivities in Mexico City kick off this Saturday with the parade of “catrinas.” (Photo: Archive)

This year’s Day of the Dead season also coincides with the Formula 1 Mexico City Grand Prix, which will boost the city’s total revenue for October and November to 28.3 billion pesos (US $1.55 billion).

With reports from El Economista and El Universal

Planning a winter getaway to Mexico? Check out these new flights

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Cancún, León and Huatulco are among the destinations with new direct flights from North America. (Shutterstock)

As the winter holiday season approaches, airlines have launched new routes to different destinations in Mexico from the United States and Canada. Cancún in Quintana Roo, León in Guanajuato and Huatulco in Oaxaca are among the cities with new direct flights from Mexico’s northern neighbors.

Cancún is the second most-served international destination out of the U.S. this winter

After Toronto Pearson (YYZ) in Canada, sunny Cancún is the most-served international destination from the United States with an average of 127 flights per day during the winter season. Considering all available flight service, flights between the U.S. and Cancún will reach a whopping figure of 19,500 flights (each way) this winter.

A beach in Cancun
An average of 127 flights per day fly from different points in the United States to Cancún. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

Three other Mexican airports are in the top 10 most-served international destinations: Mexico City (No. 4), Guadalajara (No. 7) and Los Cabos (No. 8).

American Airlines increases flights to Cancún 

The head of the Quintana Roo Tourism Promotion Council, Javier Aranda Pedrero, announced that American Airlines will increase its offer to 40 daily flights between major cities in the U.S. and Cancún. 

In the same announcement, Pedrero added that United Airlines purchased larger planes specifically for service to Quintana Roo, which will increase seat availability.

The three carriers that offer the largest number of weekly flights between the U.S. and Cancún are American Airlines, United Airlines and Southwest. Recently, Frontier Airlines also announced an expansion of its winter schedule to include Cancún.

GTO airport in Silao
The Guanajuato International Airport (BJX) will launch three flights per week from León, Mexico to Dallas, Texas. (aeropuertos.net)

Viva Aerobus adds new Dallas-León flight

Starting Dec. 8, the Bajío International Airport (BJX) located near León, Guanajuato, will launch three flights per week to Dallas, Texas, operated by low-cost carrier Viva Aerobus. This comes after a recent expansion of connectivity announced by Aeroméxico between BJX and U.S. airports. 

“Guanajuato is one of the states with the highest number of international tourists,” Guanajuato Tourism Minister Juan José Álvarez Brunel said. “More than 13% of our visitors come from other countries. This new flight will boost the tourism sector and our visitors.” 

Guanajuato is home to popular colonial destinations San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato city.

New flights from Canada to Cancún and Huatulco

Starting Dec. 17, Canada’s Flair Airlines will offer three flights per week between Calgary and Cancún. 

“We know Calgarians love Cancún,” said Garth Lund, the commercial director of Flair Airlines. “We are sure that this offer will be popular during the cold winter months when Canadians seek to escape the ice and snow.”

Huatulco
Huatulco continues to gain popularity among Canadians fleeing the snowy winter. (zonaturistica.com)

Air Canada will also resume its direct flight between Huatulco, Oaxaca and Toronto, starting Oct. 29, with three flights per week.  

WestJet will also include Huatulco in its winter schedule, offering flights from Calgary, Winnipeg and Edmonton. 

With reports by Simple Flying, El Economista, Noticias Vespertinas, Calgary Herald and El Universal Oaxaca

Thinking of exploring a Mexican cave? Keep this in mind

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Underground explorers risk their lives to find caves like this one in Michoacán, but sometimes, instead of beauty, they find CO2, “the silent killer.” (Photo by John Pint)

An inexpensive butane lighter can indicate the underground presence of invisible, odorless, carbon dioxide and can help cave visitors avoid death by asphyxiation.

Many years ago I had a chat with Dr. Merlin Tuttle, founder of Bat Conservation International. When I asked him about close calls underground, Tuttle cited a near-death experience in a Texas cave.

Curiously, a one-inch gap appears between flame and lighter, just above an underground “lake” of CO2. (Photo by John Pint.)

Near-death by CO2

Tuttle and a friend had worked their way down to the lowest part of the cave. Suddenly each of them simultaneously mentioned that he was finding it difficult to breathe and feeling extremely tired. Fortunately, this reminded Tuttle of an article he had read on the symptoms people experience just before they die from exposure to carbon dioxide.

Tuttle grabbed his companion and the two of them headed for the cave entrance, which they were barely able to reach in their weakened condition. They both collapsed outside the cave and were able to stand up only after several hours of breathing fresh air.

CO2 is invisible and odorless

Slightly moving his hand downwards, a caver sitting in an invisible pool of CO2, gets a normal flame, a gap, and then no flame. (Photo by John Pint)

Controversy surrounds the cause of carbon dioxide buildup underground. Both rotting vegetation and bats’ breath have been named as culprits, however, one thing is sure. Because it is completely invisible and completely odorless, an underground “lake” of carbon dioxide poses a mortal threat to anyone who walks or crawls into it. Carbon dioxide, in fact, has been called “the silent killer.”

Bad or foul air has been found in many caves and mines all over Mexico and, unfortunately, there is no easy way to predict where you might find it. If it is present, it is typically found at the lowest point of caves or pits with poor air circulation.

Symptoms of CO2 asphyxiation

Carbon dioxide is not poisonous, but it can kill simply by depriving air breathers of oxygen. The very first symptom a cave visitor will feel in its presence is faster breathing. If he or she is on the move, this accelerated breathing may not be noticed at all. The next symptom is tiredness, which may be the last thing the visitor remembers, because the third symptom, unconsciousness, follows very quickly.

A caver rappels into a pit. Will he find a pool of CO2 at the bottom? (Photo by John Pint)

How does a cave explorer go about detecting an invisible enemy? One solution is to buy a costly oxygen meter. A far simpler and cheaper approach is to carry an inexpensive butane lighter or even a book of matches whenever entering a cave.

An ordinary butane lighter

Many cave explorers have been doing this since a 1989 report was published stating that these lighters cannot produce a flame if there is less than 17% oxygen present. Since people tend to black out with less than 17% oxygen, an inability to “flick one’s Bic” could indicate a deadly situation.

The report also mentions that a curious one-inch gap appears between the lighter and the flame when the oxygen level is 17.5%, an excellent indicator that it is time to turn tail and leave the cave. For many cavers, a butane lighter is part of the basic equipment they carry every time they venture underground.

Carbide lamps were once used for lighting in mines and caves. Water in the upper part of the lamp drips onto calcium carbide to produce acetylene gas. (Photo by Chris Lloyd)

Sunk in a pool of carbon dioxide 

Ignorant of these facts, two cavers and I came upon the entrance to a deep pit in 1990 on a remote hilltop called Las Tierras Huecas (The Hollow Land), above Jalpa, Jalisco.

The pit entrance was about one meter in diameter. The rocks we dropped into it took eight seconds to reach the bottom, so we figured it must be very deep and lowered the entire length of our 150-meter-long rope into the pit.  

I was privileged to make the first descent and all went well until suddenly my carbide lamp went out. These lamps, once popular for visiting mines and caves, provide light from a bright flame that burns acetylene gas.

As I neared the bottom of the pit, I found myself huffing and puffing.

“Why am I so tired today?” I wondered. “When I get to the bottom, I’m going to take a good rest.”

At the bottom, however, I was breathing even faster, and it was at that moment I remembered the words of Merlin Tuttle: that a person in a cave, breathing heavily, may be immersed in a lake of carbon dioxide and may have only one more minute to live.

I abandoned the idea of taking a rest, set a new speed record for connecting my mechanical ascenders to the rope, and started back up.

I was now huffing and puffing like a train, but just 10 meters up I hit “real air,” which I instantly recognized, just as if I had popped my head out of a swimming pool – and it tasted truly delicious!

Today, smart cave explorers include a butane lighter in their kit and you ought to as well, should you ever decide to wander into a cave or mine in Mexico.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.