After photojournalist Joseph Sorrentino began documenting various Indigenous ceremonies in Mexico meant to petition for favorable weather, he began to notice strange phenomena happening in his daily life that he couldn't explain. (Joseph Sorrentino)
All it took was one small incident to completely change my worldview.
One morning about a year ago, I was showering with Martha, my novia (don’t worry — the rest of this article is rated PG). I had my back to the shower curtain when she happened to glance over my shoulder.
“Look,” she said. “The shower curtain fell.”
I turned and saw that part of the curtain had become unhooked. Five or six shower curtain rings were gently swaying.
“That’s weird,” I said and rehooked the curtain, thinking nothing more about it.
We went out for breakfast, and it was then that I realized something wasn’t quite right about what I’d seen in the shower.
I asked Martha what she had seen, and she said she happened to be looking at the curtain and saw it fall.
“Wait a minute,” I said. “There’s no way that curtain could come unhooked without someone doing it, and neither of us did.”
It was the first of several incidents to come that defy a logical explanation.
At the time of this incident, I’d been working on a project photographing graniceros, traditional Mexican shamans who conduct five ceremonies a year to control the weather.
The first, the Blessing of the Seeds, is typically on February 2, the beginning of the agricultural cycle. After that comes the Petition for Rain in May, the Canicula in July and the Fiesta of the First Corn in August. The last is the Ceremony of Gratitude in November.
The ceremonies are held near Popocatépetl, an active volcano, and Iztaccíhuatl, a nearby extinct volcano. In the indigenous worldview, these two volcanoes are gods.
Before entering the place where the ceremony was to happen, each participant is sprayed with a liquid called “flower water” to protect us from malos aires — bad spirits. Participants kneel before an altar and say their name and where they’re from. According to Gerardo, one of the graniceros, we do this “because it is their house.”
During the ceremonies, I doused myself with flower water, introduced myself to the spirits and underwent cleansings, out of respect for the graniceros and their beliefs. My attitude when I first started documenting — and participating in — these ceremonies was that I believed that they believed; I didn’t.
Then things started happening in my home.
Books that were on a bookshelf ended up on the floor when they couldn’t have gotten there on their own. Curtains that I tied securely came untied after I left the room. No one else was around.
On at least three occasions, I was in my office when Martha walked in and asked, “What do you want?”
I told her I didn’t want anything.
“Then why did you call me?” she asked.
I hadn’t.
When something unusual happened, I first looked for a logical, non-supernatural explanation or blamed my cat. When neither of them worked, I had to accept the fact that something was going on that I didn’t understand.
I asked Gerardo about these incidents, and he said they were caused by aires, spirits that exist everywhere. He said they weren’t evil, that they were childlike spirits that aided Tlaloc, the god of rain. They liked to play games, he said. They could move things and, yes, call out my name.
Because I’d been attending ceremonies, I’d either awakened or attracted a spirit, he said.
I’ll always remember his answer when I asked him for a clearer explanation of who or what they are.
“They are,” he said, “immortales.”
He suggested making a small altar in my home with flowers, water and tobacco. I have.
At the end of an interview I conducted with Dr. Mauricio Ramsés Hernández Lucas, who has studied and written extensively about graniceros, I worked up the courage to tell him about the things happening in my house. I fully expected him to tell me it was my imagination or that there were logical explanations or that I needed professional help.
Instead, he smiled a little and nodded his head. He said it was nothing unusual and was completely expected because I’d participated in the ceremonies. He thought that a spirit had attached itself to me.
He said he’d experienced similar events and, in typical Mexican fashion, added, “No pasa nada.” Nothing will happen; don’t worry about it.
In addition to granicero ceremonies, I’ve attended dozens of other pre-Hispanic events that have caused me to think differently about religious or spiritual beliefs. While items placed in front of indigenous altars are called “offerings,” the same items placed on altars in churches and temples are called “decorations.” I’ve come to believe that they’re offerings.
I find it curious how every reported appearance of the Virgin Mary in Mexico has occurred on a site where an Indigenous goddess had been worshipped. And how every miraculous appearance of a Catholic cross happened in a place where an Indigenous god had been worshipped.
I now believe that while the names change, the god, or whatever you want to call it, stays the same.
Mexico is a land of mystery, one where indigenous cultures and traditions are still vibrantly alive. It’s a place where spirits exist and unexplainable things happen — Méxicoprofundo. During my four years living here, I’ve learned to be open to things, to accept things I can’t understand or explain: things like aires and the gods that live in the mountains.
A shower curtain falling isn’t exactly a St. Paul-on-the-road-to-Damascus moment, but it’s had the same effect: I didn’t believe before; I have to believe now — I have no choice.
Morena will govern 22 of Mexico's 32 federal entities once Morena's Delfina Gómez takes office in September. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
The Morena party is set to end almost 100 years of Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) rule in México state after former federal education minister Delfina Gómez triumphed in Sunday’s gubernatorial election.
There was better news for the PRI in Coahuila, where former Saltillo mayor Manolo Jiménez Salinas won the governorship for an alliance made up of the PRI, the National Action Party (PAN) and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD).
Delfina Gómez became Mexico state’s first female governor on Sunday. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Preliminary results published on Monday by the National Electoral Institute showed that in México state, Goméz — who was also backed by the Labor Party (PT) and the Ecological Green Party of Mexico (PVEM) — was expected to win about 52.7% of the vote, while her sole rival, PRI-PAN-PRD candidate Alejandra del Moral Vela, was forecast to garner 44.3%.
Morena will govern 22 of Mexico’s 32 federal entities once Gómez takes office in September as the first female governor of México state, which surrounds much of Mexico City
In Coahuila, where the PRI has also held power since 1929, Jiménez was a clear winner over Morena’s candidate Armando Guadiana Tijerina, a former senator. The PRI-PAN-PRD candidate was expected to win about 57% of the vote, while support for Guadiana was forecast at just 21.5%.
PT candidate Ricardo Mejía Berdeja was a distant third with about 13.3% support, while the vote for PVEM aspirant Evaristo Lenin Pérez Rivera was estimated at about 5.9%.
PRI-PAN-PRD candidate Alejandro del Moral Vela, seen here at one of her final campaign events in México state, received 44.3% of the vote, according to preliminary National Electoral Institute results. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Gómez, who was education minister in President López Obrador’s government between early 2021 and last September, took to social media to celebrate her victory in México state, where turnout was around half of eligible voters.
“Your vote has spoken and it said: yes to change in #EdoMex,” she wrote on Twitter, using a common abbreviation for Mexico’s most populous state — and one of its most violent. “Your confidence in this project of transformation fills me with enthusiasm and commits me to work every day for the well-being of all. Today is a day to celebrate, the people of México state have won!”
In an address in the state capital of Toluca, the soon-to-be governor said that “100 long years of corruption and abandonment” were coming to an end in México state. Gómez’s victory in México state is a major boost for the government led by López Obrador, who founded Morena in 2011.
Mexicans will go to the polls on June 2, 2024 to elect the country’s next president. Polls consistently show that the Morena candidate — most likely Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum or Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard — will win.
Morena Party head Mario Delgado, who was in Toluca to celebrate Delfina Gómez’s victory, said her win must be an example for the party in 2024’s upcoming races. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Sunday’s result in México state gives Morena additional confidence that it will remain in office after the departure of López Obrador, who has maintained a majority approval rating throughout his presidency.
The party’s national leader, Mario Delgado, said Sunday that the México state contest “must be an example” for Morena in 2024.
“From here, with a lot of unity, we’re going to win the presidency in 2024. We’re going to win [the mayorship of] Mexico City, we’re going to win the rest of the states up for grabs as well as the majority in the Chamber of Deputies and the Senate,” he said.
The opposition PRI-PAN-PRD alliance, which has committed to fielding a common candidate at next year’s presidential election, can take some heart from Jiménez’s victory in Coahuila, but replicating that result at a federal level in 2024 looks, at this stage, to be a difficult if not insurmountable challenge.
Coahuila’s new governor-elect, PRI-PAN-PRD candidate Manolo Jiménez Salinas, shows his daughter how to put his voting ballot into an election box on Sunday. (Alejandro Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)
Results of a Reforma newspaper poll published in late May showed that the three opposition parties had combined support of 39%, compared to 55% for the alliance led by Morena.
On Twitter on Monday morning, Jiménez — who was aided electorally by a split between Morena and the PT in Coahuila — pledged to achieve “good results” as governor, and asserted that “we will begin a new history, a history that will be built and told by citizens who want to move forward.”
He will replace Governor Miguel Ángel Riquelme Solís in September, perpetuating the PRI’s near century-long rule, albeit with the support of the PAN and the PRD.
Citizens in Coahuila also voted for representatives to the northern state’s unicameral 25-seat Congress. The PRI-PAN-PRD alliance won all 16 directly-elected seats, while the occupants of the nine seats allocated via proportional representation have not yet been determined.
Taylor Swift has announced her first-ever Mexican tour dates, at Foro Sol in Mexico City this August. (Taylor Swift/Twitter)
Taylor Swift “Eras” tour coming to Mexico
Taylor Swift has announced her “Eras” tour will come to Mexico City, with three dates in the Foro Sol, alongside fellow Pennsylvanian singer Sabrina Carpenter.
Taylor Swift’s upcoming tour dates. (Taylor Swift/Twitter)
The American superstar, who has sold more than 200 million records since her debut in 2006, will finally play her first dates in Mexico as part of her new tour.
“Really thrilled to tell you this!! Mexico, Argentina and Brazil: We are bringing the Eras Tour to you this year! Sweet angel princess [Sabrina Carpenter] will be joining us on all of the shows,” said Swift in a statement via Twitter.
Tickets for the concert will be prioritized for Mexican residents, to ensure fair sales to local fans who might not otherwise have the opportunity to see the artist live in concert. Swift has been a longtime critic of what she claims are exploitative ticket sales by companies such as Ticketmaster.
Swift also announced concerts in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and the Brazilian cities of Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paolo.
Los Fabulosos Cadillacs set a new attendance record for concerts in Mexico City’s central Zocaló square. (Ioan Grillo/Twitter)
Los Fabulosos Cadillacs in the Zócalo
An estimated 300,000 fans packed into Mexico City’s central Zócalo plaza to see Argentina’s Los Fabulosos Cadillacs live in concert on Saturday night.
The stalwart Latin-rock group played a number of their hits, including Matador, Mal bicho and Vasos Vacíos,to a rapturous crowd of fans that spilled out into the side streets around the main square.
Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum said that the crowd was responsible for a US $56 million boost in sales and hotel bookings in the historic center of the city over the weekend. Sheinbaum also said it is believed that Saturday’s concert set a new attendance record for shows in the massive square, beyond the 200,000 and 280,000 records set by Rosalía and Grupo Firme, respectively.
The festival has a special focus on Mexican and Latin American cinema. It runs in Guadalajara from from June 3-9. (FICG)
Guadalajara International Film Festival opens
The 38th Guadalajara International Film Festival (FICG) opened on Saturday and run through June 9. The event is considered one of the most important celebrations of Mexican and Spanish-language cinema in the world.
Among the entries to this year’s festival is Eva Longoria’s directorial debut, “Flamin’ Hot.” The film, directed by the former Desperate Housewives star, premiered in Los Angeles last month.
According to festival director Estrella Araiza, the festival has regained funding lost during the COVID-19 pandemic and will screen a total of 170 films in the 2023 edition.
“Documentaries are very strong and prolific this year, but the fiction films are just as good and varied,” she said.
Mexico and the U.S. launch joint Women’s World Cup 2027 bid
The U.S. and Mexican soccer federations have officially submitted a joint bid to host the 2027 FIFA Women’s Soccer World Cup.
Mexico and the U.S. have submitted a joint bid for the 2027 Women’s Soccer World Cup. The two countries are already hosting the men’s FIFA World Cup (with Canada) in 2026. (Twitter)
The two nations, alongside Canada, will host the 2026 men’s edition of the tournament, which is among the world’s most prestigious sporting events.
“The United States has always been a global leader for the women’s game, and we would be honored to co-host the world’s premier event for women’s soccer along with Mexico,” said President of U.S. Soccer Cindy Parlown Cone.
“Hosting the 2027 Women’s World Cup provides us an incredible opportunity to cap off two historic years of World Cup soccer in the [North American and Caribbean] region, helping us continue to grow the game among our confederation associations,” she continued.
The FIFA Women’s World Cup 2023 opens July 20, co-hosted by Australia and New Zealand. Mexico’s national team did not make the cut for this year’s event, however the team did win 2-1 against the U.S. in the Concacaf (Confederation of North, Central America and Caribbean Association Football) under-20 women’s championship final on Sunday.
Playa Zipolite makes top 20 nude beaches list
Oaxaca’s Playa Zipolite, a secluded beach town on the Pacific coast, has made CNN’s list of the 20 best nude beaches in the world.
Zipolite, Oaxaca’s clothing-optional beach, has been a popular destination since the 1960’s. (Jorge Maldonado Campos/YouTube)
The beach, which was featured in the 2001 movie “Y Tu Mamá También,” is one of the few places in Mexico where public nudity is expected — despite being illegal in the country.
The 2-km stretch of sand has been popular since the 1960s as a hippie destination, and several hotels, cafes and bars have popped up to keep visitors around after a day at the beach.
‘Tis the season, and Mexico’s mercados will be full of mangos.
Thumbnail-size Oreos and Chips Ahoy cookies. Pancakes the size of a dime (or peso). Even mini-carrots, which aren’t really baby carrots, but rather big ones cut small. And really, what are sliders but burgers in miniature? Hello, taquitos!
The truth is, when foods are made smaller than they usually are, we’re charmed and attracted and they seem to taste better too.
The same holds true for pie: whether you call ‘em “hand pies” or pastelitos, turnovers or empanadas, there’s just something charming about the small size. And with a warm mango filling?! ‘Nuff said.
Of course, it’s perfectly OK to use frozen puff pastry (if you’re lucky enough to find it!) or a frozen pie shell, rolled out to the shape you want. The advantage of using puff pastry — besides the fact that it’s already made — is that the finished pie crust will have many luscious, flaky layers.
There’s no need to start from scratch, because when all is said and done, everyone loves pie, however the crust was made. That said, I’m going to share my Missouri farm-girl mother’s never-fail pie crust recipe. (See below.)
In Mexico, mango season is in full swing, and using them as the filling in hand pies just seemed natural. Where I live, in Mazatlán, they’re everywhere: in all the stores and fruterías, hanging from big trees in neighborhoods all over town. In the mercados, you’ll see a handful of varieties, each with a slightly different flavor and texture.
An egg wash ensures a crispy, golden-brown crust.
I personally don’t like the thin, yellow Ataulfo mangos as much as the rounder, red-and-green Kent and Tommy Atkins, but any kind will work in this recipe. Look for ripe but firm mangos that smell sweet but feel like they can be cut up easily without turning into mush.
The tricky piece of this recipe is, of course, the crust. It’s already so hot and humid here that I had to keep putting the dough back in the fridge to keep it from getting too soft to roll out. If it’s the same where you are, keep that in mind, or start your baking during a cooler part of the day or evening.
Don’t leave out the sugar — it’s more to help with thickening than with sweetening. The other challenge is to not eat all the filling; it tastes so good! I thought about just making a yogurt parfait and calling it quits.
This master recipe will make delicious mango (or other fruit, like blueberry, apple or guava paste) hand pies. (If you use berries you may need more cornstarch.)
Mango Hand Pies
Pastry:
2 cups white flour
2-4 Tbsp. sugar
½ tsp. salt
10 Tbsp. butter, cold, cut into pats
5-6 Tbsp. ice water
Filling:
About 2 cups fresh mango, diced
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. cornstarch (fécula de maíz)
1 tsp. lemon juice
½ tsp. vanilla extract
1 egg, beaten (for sealing dough)
Optional: coarse or regular sugar for sprinkling on top
To make the pastry: whisk together flour, sugar and salt. Using your hands, work in the butter until pecan-sized lumps form. Add ice water to flour mixture, a few tablespoons at a time, mixing to make a cohesive dough. Wrap in plastic or place in a glass or plastic container you can seal and refrigerate for at least one hour.
To make the filling: Combine mango cubes, cornstarch, sugar, lemon/lime juice and vanilla in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until mixture just begins to thicken, about 4–5 minutes. Be careful it doesn’t burn! Transfer to a bowl, cool to room temperature.
Preheat oven to 350 F (177 C). Lightly grease a baking sheet or line it with parchment.
To assemble: Divide dough in half; refrigerate one piece. Place other piece of dough on a lightly floured work surface and roll it into a big rectangle. Trim the edges to make them straight. Cut out 3”x6” rectangles or use a big glass to cut an even number of 3” circles.
Spread a heaping tablespoon or so of filling in the center of each rectangle or circle. For rectangles, fold in half, pressing edges firmly together and then sealing using the times of a fork.
For rounds, place a dough circle over the filling, stretching the edges. Press firmly all the way around and then use a fork to seal.
Poke the fork once or twice into the top of the pies for venting. Brush tops of the pies with beaten egg (this gives them a beautiful golden color). Sprinkle with sugar. Transfer to baking sheet. Bake for 28-33 minutes until light golden brown. Repeat process with remaining dough. Remove from oven, cool a little and eat.
Made with frozen puff pastry, hand pie crust will have lots of lovely, flaky layers.
“Wake & Bake” Mango Turnovers
If you’re lucky enough to be able to find frozen puff pastry, here’s an even simpler recipe.
2 cups diced fresh mangos
2 tsp. brown sugar
4 tsp. white sugar, divided
2 tsp. instant tapioca OR 1 Tbsp. cornstarch
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. lemon/lime juice
1 (17.3 ounce) package puff pastry
1 egg, lightly beaten
Optional: ½ tsp. cinnamon
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine diced mangos, brown sugar, 2 tsp. white sugar, tapioca or cornstarch, salt, citrus juice and cinnamon, if using. Let stand 10 minutes.
Unfold puff pastry sheets onto a clean work surface. Cut each sheet of pastry into four rectangles.
Top one half of each rectangle with mango filling. Fold the pastry over the filling to form a triangle, pressing out excess air. Use your fingers or a fork to press and seal the pastry together.
Transfer to prepared baking sheet and repeat with remaining squares. Brush each hand pie with egg wash and sprinkle with remaining sugar. Use a knife or fork to make three small slits on top of each pastry. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Best served warm.
Even though you're a foreigner living in Mexico, depending on your income profile, you may be affected by Mexican tax law. (Internet)
If you come to Mexico as a digital nomad, there may be some surprises in store for you about taxes.
Unlike in more than 50 countries, Mexico does not have a “digital nomad” visa; however, there are laws and regulations that apply as a foreign tourist and/or resident.
In recent years, Mexico has become a short-term destination for foreigners working for companies outside Mexico. (Saltinyourhair.com)
Mexican immigration and the SAT (the federal tax collection agency) are still pretty much stuck in a pre-remote-work paradigm despite recent political and social controversies surrounding the growing numbers of foreigners “visiting” or “living in” Mexico while working for foreign companies online, says Maurico Peña of Outbound Mexico, a legal firm that specializes in advising younger digital nomads in Mexico.
Mexico is no stranger to foreigners. Aside from the millions of tourists that come each year, there have been significant waves of mostly Americans who have created famous retirement enclaves.
But this has not necessarily translated into easy acceptance of younger digital nomads, whose income, like that of foreign retirees, is mostly or entirely derived from non-Mexican sources. Digital nomads’ recent visibility has raised questions about whether they should be paying (more) Mexican taxes based on that income.
Digital nomads may assume that if their income is completely from foreign sources, they are under no obligations to Mexican tax authorities; that may or may not be true.
Greece is one of many countries worldwide that are creating digital nomad visas in recognition of a new breed of shorter-term residents, but Mexico has no such visa. (Despina Galani/Unsplash)
Although many other countries have “digital nomad visas,” Peña does not think they are needed here.
“Mexican immigration law is very flexible as far as time you can stay, if you are an American… up to six months as a tourist,” he says.
He adds that most digital nomads stay only a few months and that the government right now is not particularly concerned with this type of “tourist.” But redefining what it means to “work in Mexico” might cause problems for those who do business while they are supposedly vacationing on the beach.
So basically, if you are here less than six months and have no “vital interests” in Mexico, like a business or investments, you are pretty much off the hook.
However, you do have an obligation if the SAT determines that you are a “tax resident,” which they determine by the time you’ve spent in Mexico (no matter the immigration status) and, more importantly, if and how your economic activity relates to Mexico.
According to Peña and Casey Leonard of Mexico Transitional Services, most digital nomads in Mexico are employees of U.S. firms. The two countries have a treaty to avoid U.S and Mexican citizens’ income from being “double taxed.”
If you are staying in Mexico for less than six months and the SAT doesn’t consider you a “tax resident” — someone whose income or assets are tied to Mexico, then you may not need to worry about tax obligations here. (Unsplash)
Since these Americans pay Uncle Sam, they do not owe Mexico, but they are required to report that income to the SAT. (The same holds true for retiree income, by the way).
Compliance is a different issue.
Leonard states that most of her clients declare themselves self-employed to immigration because current immigration rules require applicants who declare themselves an employee to provide a letter stating that their job is secure for at least a year — something that just about no U.S. company will do.
But this white lie isn’t a problem, Leonard says, as “…all immigration really cares about is the financials, which can be proven by bank statements.”
On the other hand, foreign income may not actually be foreign. Leonard has a client whose income is from freelancing gigs through Upwork, but since that company has an office in Mexico, there is a dispute about the withholding of Mexican taxes.
Things get trickier if you are not a U.S. citizen. Canada has a mutual tax treaty with Mexico, but Peña says that it is “more favorable to Mexico” than the U.S. one.
Even countries near Mexico like Canada don’t necessarily have as evolved tax agreements with the Mexican government as the U.S. does. (JHVEPhoto/Shutterstock)
“Many non-American digital nomads are in legal limbo because the laws in Mexico and their home countries have not caught up with the times.”
SAT must rely on digital nomads to provide financial information since the Mexican government’s ability to get or even verify such information is quite limited. Mexico cannot force the nomads’ foreign employers or banks to provide financial information. Many digital nomads simply do not report their foreign income, but if they would not owe Mexican taxes anyway, they are likely not to be hassled simply for not reporting.
Another complicating factor is being self-employed with unstable income streams from various countries. Mexico and many other countries have contemplated tax laws for “the big guys” in this situation, says Peña, but not individual freelancers.
Last but not least is the infamous tendency for Mexican offices and bureaucrats applying laws/regulations differently. Leonard says that even though all temporary and permanent residents are required to have RFC (a tax ID number), foreigners often have to tell another white lie (a car or house purchase) to convince the officials to do the paperwork.
All this, of course, does not mean that you should avoid reporting and payment of Mexican taxes. On the one hand, it is vital to know your status with the SAT, as well as your immigration status.
Also, Peña says, if you do have significant or complicated income, you can work with an accountant (perhaps a lawyer too) to keep any taxes you may owe low.
“Mexico is not a tax haven like the Cayman Islands, but it is competitive, [and it’s] even possible to pay fewer taxes for certain foreigners than in their home country.”
Neither Leonard nor Peña see any significant changes related to digital nomads coming in the near future. President López Obrador’s term is coming to an end, so nothing is forthcoming at least until 2025.
Even then, any changes will be difficult as Mexico needs to balance making the country attractive to foreigners who can spend money here with the concerns of Mexican citizens. Peña’s message for those currently enjoying tax loopholes: “Congratulations… I think the party will last for a couple of more years.”
But there are indications that there will be change eventually. SAT does have an official English-language website. Mandatory RFC numbers and the digitalization of the reporting system gives SAT tools to monitor foreigners’ financial transactions. (Whether immigration will follow along in modernization, and the two agencies will communicate remains to be seen.)
Overall, both Peña and Leonard continue to see Mexico as financially promising for foreigners of all kinds. For those looking to stay for a significant amount of time, however, it’s worthwhile to at least consult with an accountant to avoid problems and keep an eye on legal and political developments.
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.
A lot of people in Mexico still have a reason to come to your door. (Illustration by Angy Márquez)
I spend a lot of time these days ignoring my doorbell.
It rings a lot.
Because of the wonders of new technology, and because my front door is now right on the street instead of behind a fence, I now have a door cam. Well, sometimes I have a door cam; it runs through batteries like nobody’s business. But when it’s up and running, it gives me the magical power of seeing who’s at the door without letting them know that I’m seeing who’s at the door.
I know this kind of thing has been the norm in the United States for a while now, but here, it still feels brand new and a little sneaky. After all, a lot of people depend on people answering their doors to earn at least part of their living.
But my, oh my, it can sure get tiring. I mean, I work at home, and I work a lot. The work I do — I’ve got like five different contract gigs, this being one of them — requires concentration, and the less interruption, the better.
Unfortunately, that’s just not a possibility unless I outright ignore the people coming to my door.
Here’s a list of the usual suspects — that you probably have coming to your door, too! (As I’ve said before, if living in a place with plenty of peace and quiet is important to you, then Mexico is not the country for you.)
1. People asking for money. I’ve learned the hard way that helping someone out once or twice from your home means you may have them on your doorstep every day or two.
This can get pretty uncomfortable, especially if you’re a bleeding heart like me or have trouble drawing a line between being an occasional help and being someone’s main lifeline.
One of the most common scenarios is someone appearing, paper in hand, saying they need money for a medical prescription. It’s possible, of course, that they’re telling the truth: often at public health centers, the consultation is free, but the medicine they stock can be scarce, and medical workers will send patients out to buy it.
Occasionally as well, someone will come saying they need money for bus fare to get back to their small town. Are these stories true? Maybe, maybe not. In my view, if someone is in bad enough shape to knock on a stranger’s door, that’s usually enough for me to offer some help. But if they make a habit of knocking on the same stranger’s door — mine — I stop answering and just sit inside feeling guilty about it instead.
2. The self-appointed neighborhood security guard. In my old neighborhood, the guy who (supposedly) walked around our neighborhood all night blowing a whistle and scaring the bad guys away wore a cool camouflage uniform. The one in my new neighborhood has opted for just plain gray, but he does wear a hat!
This is not an official job that the person is formally hired for; it’s more like a position that they make up for themselves and begin performing — or say they are performing: I’ve never noticed this person when I’ve gone out at night.
This person will then ring your doorbell at some point, asking for payment for doing this job. The ones I’ve had also usually ask for an aguinaldo (a Christmas bonus) around the holidays. There’s a suggested price on the little piece of paper they give you as your “receipt,” but when I answer the door, I usually just give them whatever’s in the little change bowl by the door.
The neighborhood security guard I have now is incredibly persistent; he’ll ring the doorbell several times and stand there for quite a while before giving up, and his persistence, I’ll admit, makes me even less eager to get up from my work and answer the door.
3. Jehovah’s Witnesses. There seem to be a lot in my city, as I’ve never lived anywhere in Xalapa where they haven’t shown up. Perhaps, the Witnesses we have are just particularly active and enthusiastic? In any case, they always find me, and it’s usually a group of them all at once.
I’ve actually worked with quite a few Jehovah’s Witnesses over the years. Their training in presenting and talking to strangers makes them pretty excellent English teachers, and almost all the ones I’ve known have been incredibly friendly and personable.
The ones I’ve met in Mexico, though, have not been quite as friendly, and I can’t figure out why. I’m not against talking to them, but I must admit that I’m a little intimidated when it’s a family of six. The ones currently assigned to my house also have the habit of ringing the doorbell and then waiting out there for a good five minutes, perhaps trying to out-discomfort me.
4. The water guys. These are people that I’m happy to see at my door, as it means we don’t have to haul our five-gallon water containers (the garrafones) back to our homes from the store. Luckily they come somewhat predictably, so we can be ready for them.
5. The trash guys. Because our municipal trash service is not very predictable, a small industry has popped up of guys with trucks who offer to haul your trash off for you, rather than waiting for the cowbell call to take your stuff out. I took them up on it once, but they wanted to charge me so much that I never accepted again. For the most part, they’ve stopped ringing the doorbell, though they still come to my street and honk loudly, as does the guy selling tortillas.
6. Delivery and mail guys. These are also people that I want to answer the door for, and the main reason I have a door cam in the first place: I don’t want to accidentally ignore someone I’m waiting on. Delivery workers usually have our phone numbers, though, so it’s rare to miss them.
The list goes on, but these are the most common visitors, and it’s not unusual for my doorbell to ring five or six times a day.
But you know who never rings my doorbell? Friends. They just text instead.
Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com
In this week's morning press conferences, President López Obrador discussed his administration's security policy, welfare projects, water works, and the presidential election next June. (Gob MX)
President López Obrador began his 55th month as president this week and now has just 16 months left in Mexico’s top job before his six-year term ends on Oct. 1, 2024.
At his morning press conference, or mañanera, on Wednesday, AMLO acknowledged that his time in office is running out, but asserted that “it’s like we still have 2 1/2 years left because we’re now going to work more.”
President López Obrador is known for his lengthy press conferences, or mañaneras, held every weekday morning. (Gob MX)
The 69-year-old Tabasco-born leader – who attends a 6 a.m. security meeting every weekday before presiding over his lengthy pressers – also suggested that he would sleep less to ensure that he makes the most of his time left as president.
“When you get older you don’t need to sleep as much. Those who sleep the most are children and babies, right?”
Monday
The Central de Abasto de Mérida, a market in the Yucatán capital, is the most expensive place in Mexico to buy a canasta básica (basic basket) of 24 essential items, reported Ricardo Sheffield, head of the consumer protection agency Profeco.
“I don’t know what got into these people,” Sheffield said, noting that the canasta básica cost 1,076 pesos (about US $61) there during the third week in May.
The cheapest place in the country to pick up items such as eggs, rice, beans and tuna was a Chedraui supermarket in Aguascalientes, where a canasta básica cost 817 pesos (about US $46) – 24% less than the Mérida maximum.
“They might not agree with those protesting [against justices] in front of the Supreme Court, but they shouldn’t have gone there to provoke them and remove their banners,” AMLO said, referring to clashes between pro-SCJN demonstrators and anti-court activists.
Pineapples have become a popular symbol in the opposition protest movements, ever since Norma Piña was chosen as the Supreme Court’s Chief Justice on Jan. 2. Her last name means “pineapple” in Spanish. (Andrea Murcia Monsivais/Cuartoscuro)
“… Confrontation has to be avoided, violence has to be avoided. … Nobody should be ejected [from their place of protest],” he said.
AMLO later confirmed that he receives the old-age pension on top of his salary as president “because I’m now entitled to it.”
“Support for senior citizens is universal, for all older people,” he said.
“… It will help me [when I’m retired] because I’m not going to receive a government pension like previous presidents got. I’m going to … receive my Issste [state workers’] pension … and I’m going to live on that because I’m not a millionaire, my aim in life has never been to accumulate wealth,” López Obrador said.
One reporter noted that two months had passed since a fire in a Ciudad Juárez detention center that claimed the lives of 40 migrants, and asked the president about the government’s response to the tragedy, including a decision apparently taken by the National Immigration Institute (INM) to reserve footage of the incident as confidential for a period of five years.
“An investigation is being carried out and there are people detained,” López Obrador said.
“… It was a very terrible tragedy. I’m not in favor of hiding information, I don’t know why … [the INM] did that. I’m going to ask, so that all information is allowed [to be made public],” he said.
“… The culprits are being punished, both those who started the fire as well as the authorities responsible,” AMLO said, although no one has yet been convicted of charges related to the deadly blaze.
“They’re going to continue wanting to stop the work but they won’t be able to. According to the constitution, the laws, we have the right to build projects for the benefit of the people,” AMLO said.
Just before the end of the Monday mañanera, the president’s communications coordinator said that it was in fact the Federal Attorney General’s Office, rather than the INM, that reserved footage of the detention center fire as confidential.
“But they tell me that today it will be released,” Jesús Ramírez said.
“Ah, bueno,” AMLO said. “It was the Attorney General’s Office. … Now, let’s go to breakfast,” he added before Ramírez reminded him that he had information about his wife’s income at hand.
A document showed that Beatriz Gutiérrez Müller had income of 3.3 million pesos last year, a figure bolstered by sales of López Obrador’s most recent book, A la mitad del Camino.
“That book sold a lot. It’s still in bookstores,” AMLO said.
Tuesday
“We’re going to report on security, as we do every 15 days on Tuesdays,” López Obrador said at the beginning of his presser.
“We’re also going to report … on welfare programs. The issues aren’t opposed to each other. On the contrary, they are closely related,” he said.
“What we achieve in security has as its support, its base, everything that we’re doing for the well-being of the people,” AMLO said, offering a synopsis of his so-called abrazos, no balazos (hugs, not bullets) security strategy in which the government favors addressing the root causes of crime through welfare programs over combating criminals with force.
In the regular “Zero Impunity” segment, Deputy Security Minister Luis Rodríguez Bucio reported that a man known as “Coma Peter” was arrested in Chihuahua in connection with the 2019 murder of three women and six children belonging to three Mormon families.
“This detainee, José Osvaldo “N,” alias ‘Coma Peter,’ was arrested in Ascensión, Chihuahua. [He is a] presumed operator of a crime group known as Nuevo Cártel de Juárez,” Rodríguez said, adding that he is accused of murdering members of the LeBaron, Langford and Miller families.
“With him 33 people have now been arrested in this case,” he added before offering brief details about other recently detained suspects.
Continuing the security update, National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval reported that more than 255,000 members of the National Guard and armed forces are deployed across Mexico to keep the peace – no mean feat in a country where there have been over 30,000 homicides every year since López Obrador took office.
Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval at the Tuesday morning press conference. (Gob MX)
He also gave a rundown of seizures of weapons and drugs in the month of May, informing the press that 1,342 firearms, 238 kilograms of fentanyl and over 3,500 kilograms of methamphetamine had been confiscated.
Welfare Minister Ariadna Montiel Reyes later reported that 11.4 million senior citizens and just under 1.3 million people with disabilities are receiving government pensions.
Other officials offered updates on programs that would be more likely to help lead people away from a life of crime, including the Youths Building the Future apprenticeship scheme and the Sowing Life reforestation/employment initiative.
According to the information presented, almost 284,000 young people are currently undertaking the former program, in which participants are paid 6,310 pesos a month, while nearly 450,000 people are employed in the latter.
After reports from numerous other officials, including the head of the fisheries agency Conapesca and the coordinator of the government’s national digital strategy, AMLO finally returned to center stage to respond to reporters’ questions.
One journalist asked the president about a peace agreement proposal put forward by an activist who called on Mexico’s most powerful cartels to cease hostilities and enforced disappearances.
“I agree [with the proposal] and hopefully peace will be achieved – that’s what we all want, for there to be no violence, no homicides, no aggression, because it affects everyone,” López Obrador said.
“… I approve of everything that means setting aside or not using violence,” he said, adding that members of crime groups have the power to take such a decision themselves.
“They should take responsibility and behave as good citizens. … There is always a way out for those who don’t want to use violence.”
The cell phone of Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas, who is also president of the Ayotzinapa truth commission, was infected with Pegasus spyware as reported by The New York Times in May. (Gob MX)
AMLO later reaffirmed that his government doesn’t spy on anyone. Asked how the cell phone of Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas was infiltrated by the Pegasus spyware system, as The New York Times reported May 22, López Obrador said that “we have to see who did it” before asserting that it wasn’t the federal government, the army or Mexico’s “intelligence system.”
“Probably … it was the same people as always – the authoritarian conservatives,” he said, apparently referring to members of past governments, or current opposition.
Wednesday
Just over 20 minutes into the third mañanera of the week, the general director of the National Water Commission strode to the lectern and reported that the government is working on 15 “priority water projects.”
“Putting the human right to water first, the government of Mexico is making progress on the construction of dams and aqueducts for the supply of potable water in various entities of the country,” Germán Martínez Santoyo said.
He said that the López Obrador administration is also investing in new irrigation infrastructure.
“The government of Mexico is investing 93.55 billion pesos [about US $5.3 billion] with complete transparency and zero corruption for the benefit of 21.3 million residents and farmers,” Martínez said.
Other water officials offered specific details on some of the projects, including two that are part of the government’s Yaqui Justice Plan, which seeks to make amends for past injustices committed against the Sonora-based indigenous group.
AMLO thanked the “people of the towns where these [water] projects are being carried out,” asserting that without their support “we couldn’t advance.”
Cedric Iván Escalante Sauri, who is in charge of a reservoir project in Sinaloa, speaks at the Wednesday morning press conference. (Gob MX)
“Campesinos, ejidatarios [communal land owners], small landowners, local authorities, mayors and of course governors, who help a lot. It’s a coordinated effort,” he said.
“… For the entire Yaqui Justice Plan, the government of Sonora and [Governor] Alfonso Durazo have always been helping.”
Responding to his first question of the day, López Obrador said that his meeting on Tuesday with United States Homeland Security Advisor Elizabeth Sherwood-Randall was “very good.”
“Yesterday we dealt with the migration issue. There are two things that are very important. The first … is that for the first time in many years the United States government is opening up … a [new] channel for legal migration. … They’re granting about 400,000 temporary visas for Haiti, Nicaragua, Cuba and Venezuela,” he said.
“… The other thing we insisted on was investing more in Central America and the Caribbean, in the poorest communities. We’re already investing about US $150 million in Central American and Caribbean communities and we’re suggesting that they, as a minimum, do the same because we have studies … that clearly show that where we’ve implemented the Sowing Life and Youths Building the Future programs … young people remain [at home], people stay in their towns,” AMLO said.
“… As we’ve always said, migration isn’t for pleasure but rather out of necessity.”
AMLO mentioned he received a letter from Senator John Kennedy of the U.S., apologizing for remarks he had made disparaging Mexico. (Gob MX)
López Obrador later revealed that United States Republican Party Senator John Kennedy – who said in May that “without the people of America, Mexico, figuratively speaking, would be eating cat food out of a can” – had sent him a letter to apologize.
Mexico’s Ambassador to the United States, Esteban Moctezuma, “gave it to me about a week ago,” he said, adding that he would show it to reporters at a future press conference.
Among other remarks, the president reiterated that the government is committed to combating the illegal drug trade, including the trafficking of fentanyl.
“[We’re] preventing the introduction of … [precursor] chemicals, destroying laboratories, doing our job,” he said.
“And a lot of public servants lose their lives [in the fight against drugs]. A deputy administrative director was kidnapped three days ago … in the port of Manzanillo, precisely because of the control measures that are being taken. And they murdered him,” López Obrador said.
Thursday
“We’re very happy to be here in Ciudad Madero, in Tampico, in this region of Tamaulipas,” López Obador said at the beginning of his presser.
“… At sea level, … you always sleep very well, you rest,” he added.
AMLO, who would attend a National Navy Day ceremony in Ciudad Madero later in the day, once again congratulated the people of the northern border state for electing Américo Villareal – a Morena party representative – as governor at the 2022 election.
“Tamaulipas needed a good governor. Those of you who are tamaulipecos know how [the state] suffered bad governments for many years, … and now the government of an upright, honest man has arrived … and that’s an advantage because, let’s not forget, Mexico’s main problem was corruption,” he said.
Villareal, a cardiologist who took office last October, replaced AMLO at the mañanera lectern and declared that Tamaulipas is “obtaining good results” in the fight against crime.
The “perception of insecurity” in the state, as measured by the national statistics agency INEGI, has declined 11.2% over the past year, the governor said.
Tamaulipas governor Américo Villarreal at the Thursday morning press conference. (Gob MX)
“In the fight against corruption we’re applying our moral values, such as honesty, ethics and honor, thinking of a better future and sharing this task with society in order to proudly progress in the restoration of citizens’ confidence without fear,” he added.
Navy Minister José Rafael Ojeda Durán reported that Tamaulipas – home to the notorious Gulf Cartel – has been the 17th most violent state in Mexico during the term of the current government based on its per-capita homicide rate.
During his engagement with reporters, López Obrador defended his government’s record on human rights and holding criminals to account.
“We don’t allow torture, like before, … the state doesn’t disappear anyone, massacres [by security forces] aren’t authorized like before,” he said.
“… Before there were more deaths in confrontations than wounded people and arrests,” López Obrador said.
“… With us there are more wounded people and detained people that those who lose their lives. This is a sign that we respect human rights in practice. … We’re not the same [as past governments]. … There is no impunity. How could we be the same if the security minister is now Rosa Icela Rodríguez and during the government of [Felipe] Calderón, the security minister was [convicted drug trafficker Genaro] García Luna?”
The president later revealed that the government had reached an agreement with Grupo México under which the mining and infrastructure conglomerate will cede control of a section of railroad in Veracruz that was occupied by the navy last month.
López Obrador said that Grupo México, parent company of the railroad firm Ferrosur, had agreed to “voluntarily hand over” a 120-kilometer section of the Southeastern Railway to the nation.
In exchange, Ferrosur’s concession to operate another section of railroad in Mexico’s southeast will be extended by eight years to 2044, the president said. No monetary compensation will be paid to Grupo México, López Obrador said.
The Mexican Navy took over parts of a railway operated by Ferrosur in Veracruz in late May. (Ángel Hernández/Cuartoscuro)
“This is the agreement and I believe it is beneficial,” he said. “In addition, it’s a matter … of national security,” AMLO added, referring to a decree he issued that declared the stretch of railroad seized to be of “public utility” and relevant to national security.
López Obrador also said that he expects that passenger trains will be running along 2,000 kilometers of government-operated tracks when he leaves office next year.
Such a situation, which mainly depends on the timely completion of the 1,554-kilometer-long Maya Train railroad, “hasn’t been seen for a long time, [not] since the bad decision to privatize railroads was taken,” he said.
Friday
AMLO presented a graph during his mañanera introduction that showed that the unemployment rate in Mexico in the first three months of the year was lower than the rates in several other countries, including the United States, Canada, France, Colombia and Spain, but slightly higher than those in Japan and South Korea.
The rate in Mexico – 2.7% in the first quarter, according to INEGI – is among the lowest in the world, López Obrador said.
“The [first quarter of] 2022 was also very high but … the Televisa-Univisión merger and the restructuring of Aeroméxico are included. Now there hasn’t been any operation with those characteristics but foreign investment is growing a lot,” AMLO said.
“… People know that we are doing well economically and socially,” he said at the tail end of his economic update.
The president discussed economic growth at the Friday morning press conference. (Gob MX)
“Yesterday and the day before yesterday I was in Tamaulipas … and the people are very happy, very hopeful and that’s the way it is in the entire country.”
Having opened the floor to questions, the president was asked whether the government would support a multi-billion-peso aqueduct project in Querétaro.
“We’re speaking with the governor, we’re looking at how we can support what he’s proposing,” López Obrador said.
Picking up on the reporter’s acknowledgement that he had signed a decree to establish the Peña Colorada zone of Querétaro as a natural protected area, AMLO declared that he wants to “go down in history” as the No. 2 ranked president in terms of the creation of new natural reserves.
“General Lázaro Cárdenas is first. I aspire to [second place],” he said.
“One day we’re going to tell you how many reserves, how many natural protected areas will be left [by the current government]. … All the National Tourism Promotion Fund land for starters,” López Obrador said.
“… There should be areas for the enjoyment of the people. There weren’t beaches for the people before, the trend was to privatize all the beaches and now we’re going to leave thousands of kilometers [of public beaches]. Not thousands, but hundreds of kilometers of beaches for the people.”
AMLO later said that the government would present a report on Monday “on everything that has been done” in response to a 2009 fire in an ABC daycare center in Hermosillo that claimed the lives of 49 young children and injured more than 40 others.
“We’re going to report on the criminal complaints, … the payment of compensation, … other support we’ve given and how we’re going to continue supporting [victims and the families of victims],” he said.
Interior Minister Adán Augusto López (left), Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum, and Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard are the three favorites vying for the Morena candidacy in 2024. (Claudia Sheinbaum/Twitter)
One reporter noted that it was exactly one year until the 2024 elections will be held, and asked the president what advice he would give to his successor.
“[I’ll talk about that] later because there’s still a long time left,” López Obrador responded cheerily. “The election is a year away, exactly one year.”
AMLO predicted “continuity with change” following next year’s presidential election, indicating that he believes that the candidate for the ruling Morena party – most likely Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum or Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard – will triumph on June 2, 2024, and perpetuate his so-called “fourth transformation” of Mexico.
“… [There will be] continuity in the project, but change in the women, the men, who lead the government,” he said.
By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])
Mexico says it is phasing out GM corn imports by 2024 to protect Mexicans' health and Mexico's native corn from contamination. The U.S. says Mexico's concerns are not based on good science. (Government of Mexico)
The United States government has requested dispute settlement consultations with its Mexican counterpart over Mexico’s plan to phase out imports of genetically modified (GM) corn by 2024.
U.S. Trade Representative Katherine Tai announced the move on Friday, explaining that the consultations will take place under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), the free trade pact that took effect in 2020.
U.S. Trade Representative Katherine Tai said Friday that Mexico’s measures ‘appear to be inconsistent’ with sanitary and market access obligations it agreed to in the US-Mexico-Canada Agreement. (Katherine Tai/Twitter)
“These consultations regard certain Mexican measures concerning products of agricultural biotechnology,” Tai’s office, the USTR, said in a statement.
“… These consultations regard measures set out in Mexico’s February 13, 2023 decree, specifically the ban on use of biotechnology corn in tortillas or dough, and the instruction to Mexican government agencies to gradually substitute — i.e., ban — the use of biotechnology corn in all products for human consumption and for animal feed,” the USTR said.
“The consultations also regard rejections of applications for authorization covering the importation and sale of certain biotechnology products. Mexico’s measures appear to be inconsistent with several of its obligations in the Sanitary and Phytosanitary (SPS) Measures and Market Access chapters of the USMCA.”
The news agency Reuters reported that the United States and Mexico are now “inching closer to a full-blown trade dispute under” the USMCA over the Mexican government’s GM corn policies.
U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack, seen here at a United Nations Global Food Security Panel in 2022, said Friday that the U.S. fundamentally disagrees with Mexico’s position on biotechnology, which he said “has been proven to be safe for decades.”
The U.S. government can request the establishment of a dispute settlement panel to make a ruling if the consultations don’t resolve the conflict within 75 days. The U.S. could impose punitive tariffs on Mexican imports if Mexico doesn’t comply with a ruling in its favor.
Mexico’s Agriculture Minister Víctor Manuel Villalobos Arámbula said earlier this week that he didn’t expect the conflict to reach a dispute settlement panel.
President López Obrador asserts that GM corn seeds pose a contamination threat to native varieties of maize that have been grown in Mexico for thousands of years. He also believes GM corn is harmful to human health.
In March, López Obrador asserted that Mexico’s decision to phase out imports of GM corn for human consumption doesn’t violate its commitments under the USMCA free trade pact.
“No agreement in the world allows goods that are harmful to health to be bought or sold,” he said. “In the … [USMCA] there are clauses that protect consumers, just as the environment and workers are protected.”
Mexico’s Agriculture Minister Víctor Manuel Villalobos Arámbula, seen here last week at a Mexico native corn event, said he did not expect the dispute to escalate beyond the latest stage reached on Friday. (Víctor Manuel Villalobos Arámbula/Twitter)
Tai said Friday that “the United States has repeatedly conveyed its concerns that Mexico’s biotechnology policies are not based on science and threaten to disrupt U.S. exports to Mexico to the detriment of agricultural producers, which in turn can exacerbate food security challenges.”
“Mexico’s biotechnology policies also stifle agricultural innovation that helps American farmers respond to pressing climate challenges, increase farm productivity, and improve farmers’ livelihoods,” she added.
The U.S. National Corn Growers Association (NCGA) said in February that the proposed ban on GM corn exports to Mexico “would be catastrophic for American corn growers as well as the Mexican people, who depend on corn as a major staple of their food supply.”
“Mexico’s actions, which are not based on sound science, have threatened the financial well-being of corn growers and our nation’s rural communities,” said NCGA President Tom Haag.
United States Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack said Friday that “we fundamentally disagree with the position Mexico has taken on the issue of biotechnology, which has been proven to be safe for decades.”
The U.S. National Corn Growers Association (NCGA) has said that Mexico’s planned ban on GM corn imports “would be catastrophic for American corn growers as well as the Mexican people.”
“Through this action, we are exercising our rights under USMCA while supporting innovation, nutrition security, sustainability, and the mutual success of our farmers and producers,” he said.
Mexico and the United States are also engaged in an energy dispute over nationalistic policies that favor state-owned Mexican energy firms such as the Federal Electricity Commission over private U.S. companies. That conflict began almost 11 months ago when the United States, and later Canada, requested dispute settlement consultations with Mexico under USMCA.
Neither the United States nor Canada has requested the establishment of a dispute settlement panel, although they could have done so in the final quarter of 2022.
Nissan was a top-selling brand in May, enjoying an 18.3% market share. (Nissan Mexicana)
During May, 102,697 new light vehicles were sold in Mexico, according to trade associations, representing a 5.2% increase from April, and a 12.6% increase from the same month last year.
It was the first May to show an increase since pre-pandemic sales, surpassing the 102,422 units sold in May 2019.
Automobile manufacturing is a cornerstone of the Mexican economy. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)
From January through May, 515,433 new cars were sold, representing a 20.4% increase from the same period last year. The figures suggest that 2023 car sales could come close to the 1.3 million units sold in Mexico in 2019, indicating the automotive industry is finally recovering from the global supply chain issues caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.
Mexico saw 1.08 million new car sales in 2022 – a 7% improvement on 2021, but still 17.6% behind pre-pandemic figures.
May’s figures, reported on Friday by the Mexican Association of Automotive Distributors (AMDA) and the Mexican Association of the Automotive Industry (AMIA), showed Nissan was the top-selling brand, with 18.3% of total sales. The Japanese automaker sold 20,045 cars in May, representing a year-on-year growth of 42.2%.
The next most popular brands were GM (with 13.1% market share), Volkswagen Group (with 11.1%), then Stellantis, Kia and Toyota (with 7.5% each).
A big winner in May, Mazda saw sales growth of 178.1% from the previous year, and Stellantis also saw a 36.6% increase. In contrast, Toyota saw a dip in sales of 18.3%, and Suzuki by 19.7%.
The automotive manufacturing industry is one of the pillars of Mexico’s economy, representing around3.5% of GDP. Besides selling to the domestic market, the country became theleading exporter of vehicles to the United States last year, reaching US $34.9 billion in sales.
Geologist Chris Lloyd admires the beauty of Laughing Grackle Cave in the Sac Actún systemin Quintana Roo. (Photo: David Dusek)
A few years ago, any encyclopedia — remember those? — would have told you that the longest cave in the world was the Mammoth Cave system in the United States. The combined length of Mammoth Cave’s passages would have depended on the year of the encyclopedia’s publication, as people made more and more discoveries about it.
As of this writing, on May 28, 2023, that system is measured at 685.6 kilometers (426 miles) long. But today, the worldwide community of cave explorers — speleologists, as we call ourselves — is starting to suspect that the longest cave in the world lies not in the U.S. but in Mexico.
Caver Elsi Lara floats blissfully inside the Pool Tunich (the Belly Button in Mayan) system, deep inside what might be the world’s longest underground cave. (Chris Lloyd)
Cave divers have been exploring and mapping southeastern Mexico’s cenotes — natural sinkholes exposing groundwater — for years, discovering kilometers of underwater passages and linking them together.
At the same time, other researchers were mapping the region’s dry caves. As the various groups have compared their findings, they are discovering that the wet and dry caves are much more interconnected than previously suspected.
Some experts even suspect that the caves of the southeast are entirely linked.
“There’s only one cave in Quintana Roo,” says cave management specialist Peter Sprouse, who has been studying the area for years. “It’s just a case of connecting all the pieces.”
Diving in the crystal-clear waters of an ancient ochre mine in Quintana Roo, now flooded. (CINDAQ.ORG)
The biggest of those pieces is the 436-kilometer long Ox Bel Ha system, followed by Sac Actún (386 km). To these, Sprouse believes, will probably be added 29 other systems already mapped in Quintana Roo.
All of the above, when totaled, add up to a megacave that’s 6,898 km long (4,286 miles).
So there it is: Mexico houses what could be the longest cave in the world…and what are they building right on top of it?
Ah yes, we all know: the Maya Train. But what only a few of us know is the result of building a train track on top of karst.
A section of track for the Maya Train is planned to run directly over the Garra de Jaguar (Jaguar Claw) cave in Quintana Roo.
Karst is a kind of terrain formed when bedrock made of rocks like limestone and gypsum is dissolved by water. For speleologists, it’s that lovely kind of terrain where caves are likely to be found, and it typically looks like Swiss cheese, full of interconnected holes and topped with sharp, pointy prickles.
This means that anything accumulated on the surface of karst, like fertilizers, pesticides or anything leaked from a cesspool or spilled from a tanker, will be washed directly into the aquifer within seconds after a rainfall.
In Europe, legislation regulates the construction of roads on top of karst. For example, a trench plus holding tanks must be built on both sides of a highway in a karst area in order to collect the kind of hazardous materials that recently caused havoc in East Palestine, Ohio — where 100,000 gallons of dangerous liquids were spilled from a derailed train.
To make matters worse, the aquifer housed inside what might come to be recognized as the world’s future longest cave is still mostly unpolluted.
So I decided to gather together the opinions of a few speleologists who work in Mexico, as I believe their ideas count more than the comments of those who have never trod (or swam) beneath the surface of our poor, besieged planet.
Geologist and speleologist Chris Lloyd has explored and surveyed caves in Quintana Roo over many years and has come to agree with Peter Sprouse that the region’s many caves are in fact one system.
Dr. Ramón Espinasa, left, inside a lava tube in Tepoztlán. The geologist specializes in volcanic caves. (Chris Lloyd)
“What is the Maya Train doing to those caves?” I asked him.
The Maya train, he told me, is “obviously… affecting all of the caves that it goes over.” “There’s already been one collapse along the corridor where the train is going, and there will undoubtedly be more collapses of existing caves. One of the caves I surveyed in that area has a 30-meter-wide entrance, and the train goes over it, right over the open space.”
Another problem that Lloyd pointed out is related to that huge aquifer housed inside the cave system.
The problem, says the geologist, is that the new train track is going over the higher part of the aquifer, while the existing roads and population centers are close to the coast, at the lower end of the aquifer.
“So water goes into the aquifer through the jungle, and it leaves the aquifer near the coast,” he says.
That water, Lloyd points out, is unpolluted because no one lives in the jungle. But the Maya Train has created new access points, and in many places there will be a road next to the railroad tracks.
Areas of Mexico safest from drought are shown in blue. (Courtesy Arreguin-Cortés et al, Sustainable Earth, 2020)
“Whatever purpose it may have,” says Lloyd, “it is still a road, and people will use it. They will be building on properties out in the jungle. Eventually, whatever is built above the aquifer will pollute it.”
This aquifer, points out Sprouse, is more accessible to humans than any other on the planet.
“Near inhabited areas, you can dive into this system and see a pipe coming down through the ceiling of the cave with feces and toilet paper coming out. So anything encouraging more development without waste management is going to have a negative impact.”
The Yucatán aquifer, explains geologist/speleologist Ramón Espinasa, is Mexico’s biggest, and one of the largest in the world, lying under one of the planet’s largest stretches of karstic terrain.
“The train is not the last problem of this aquifer,” says Espinasa. “We are just at the beginning of the problem. Once you have that train working, it’s going to attract more people. You are going to have more growth, more towns and more pollution of the aquifer that they are drinking from.”
Espinasa also backs the single-cave-system theory.
“It’s sad that they are going to harm the world’s largest cave, but it will survive. However, contamination of the aquifer is the real problem. The aquifer only needs one contamination point to foul up the whole thing. Because this is karst, there’s nothing between the surface and the water to filter the contaminants.”
Mexico will not need just strict regulations to prevent contamination of this aquifer: it will need literally the strictest regulations the world has ever seen. This is the message that Mexico’s speleologists and geologists want to convey to the country’s president.
The Maya Train is located right on top of the nation’s most precious aquifer, a karst aquifer that will be extraordinarily difficult to protect. Are you ready to take on this Herculean task, Mr. President?
The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on hisblog.
