Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Attorney’s kidnapping highlights dangers for Indigenous activists

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Wixárika land defender and attorney Santos de la Cruz Carrillo in 2010
Wixárika land defender and attorney Santos de la Cruz Carrillo in 2010, at the beginning of the fight to defend the sacred desert of the Wirikuta from Canadian mining. (Tracy L. Barnett)

This past weekend was an intense and frightening one for many here in Western Mexico — at least among the people who care about the land and Indigenous people: high-profile Wixárika land defender and attorney Santos de la Cruz Carrillo had disappeared on Friday along with his wife and two children, including a three-month-old baby. 

They had been taking their pickup truck to a mechanic in a nearby town on the rugged backroads of the Sierra Madre Occidental, near Santos’ community of Bancos de Calitique, Durango, close to the state line with Nayarit. When no one had hear from him in 24 hours and he didn’t answer his phone, his companions reported him missing and demanded that the government launch a top-priority investigation to find the family — alive.

The kidnapping’s timing in itself was suspicious because Santos is the leader of a half-century-long battle to restore nearly 11,000 hectares of invaded Wixárika (also known as Huichol) territory. Just last week I saw that the battle had been won in the courts and that Santos was going home to celebrate this landmark victory with his community.

In Bancos de Calitique, Santos was preparing to begin the next steps of this restitution process when he and his family were disappeared last weekend.

I use the transitive verb form here intentionally, as did other local media, because they didn’t simply disappear. They were taken.

Thanks to his community’s swift and unrelenting efforts and intelligence work on the part of the Nayarit prosecutor’s office, they were found alive and unharmed a couple of days later. 

Poster publicizing the disappearance of Wixárika land defender Santos de la Cruz
As soon as de la Cruz went missing, his community acted swiftly, with a publicity campaign and a targeted campaign at law enforcement and the government’s Indigenous people’s agency, INPI.

This kidnapping came at a time when Mexico has been named the deadliest place in the world for land defense activists, particularly Indigenous people protecting their ancestral territories, according to the nonprofit Global Witness, which says that 54 environmental and land defenders were killed in Mexico in 2021. 

And the problem goes far beyond Mexico, with violence against Indigenous land defenders prevailing throughout the Americas — including the U.S. and Canada. Indigenous peoples, who comprise around 5% of the world’s population, protect an estimated 80% of the planet’s biodiversity. Now, extractive industries are coming full force after these Indigenous lands, seeking to exploit their resources.

Santos’ disappearance hit me hard because he is the first Wixárika person I ever met when I first arrived here in 2010. I met him in the offices of the Jalisco Association for the Support of Indigenous Peoples (AJAGI), the leading group supporting Indigenous peoples’ struggles to defend and recover their territories here in western Mexico. 

I went with the team of AJAGI that year to document that struggle and other territorial defense stories that were happening at that time, and it was such an eye-opening trip that it inspired me to come back and work with them to document and support their struggle to save their most sacred site, Wirikuta, from Canadian mining operations. Santos became the key spokesperson and leader of that struggle. 

Santos de la Cruz, left, consults with Ruben Albarran, center, of Cafe Tacvba band
De la Cruz, left, consults with Café Tacvba lead singer Rubén Albarrán, center, at a press conference announcing the Wirikuta Fest, organized in 2012 to raise money for defense of the Wixárika’s sacred territory. (Tracy L. Barnett)

When I saw the announcement that Santos’ long legal fight had at last been won, we connected over social media and I congratulated him. He invited me to his community to come and write about it. I thought of his sweet family, of his spectacularly beautiful community, of his easy laugh and teasing demeanor, of his sharp mind and eloquent discourse in defense of Tatei Yurienaka, the Mother Earth. 

What happened to him and his family highlights the danger that land defenders face throughout the region — Mexico is the worst right now, and the Wixárika territories are in particular crisis due to cartel activity. Regardless of the fact that Santos and his family were recovered safely, they remain on the frontlines and are very vulnerable, and are far from the only ones.

The work that Santos and his colleagues are doing is a small attempt to shift the balance toward justice, one that reaches back to the times of colonialism. That reckoning has begun in the U.S. and Canada with the #landback movement, and it has taken a thousand forms, with individual landowners in the U.S. and Canada working with tribes to return portions of their ancestral lands, and with Indigenous people themselves occupying treaty lands that have been stolen. 

The legal battles being fought by de la Cruz and his colleagues to recover land that has been invaded by non-Indigenous people over the past 100 years are part of that. In that century, the government has not only turned a blind eye to the practice but actually has encouraged it, granting titles to the land generations ago. 

A small amount of progress was made when a presidential decree more than 50 years ago acknowledged the problem; the Wixárika communities have been fighting for restitution in the courts — and winning — ever since. But it has been a battle with violent consequences. 

A parallel and similar fight has been waged by the Wixárika communities of San Sebastian and Tuxpan de Bolaños of Jalisco state, who also established the ownership of 11,000 hectares across the state line in Nayarit around the ranching community of Huajimic. Those communities saw their leaders killed in the process.

Indigenous Wixarika activists Miguel Vázquez, left, and Santos de la Cruz Carrillo, right, in Huajimic, Jalisco
Indigenous activist Miguel Vázquez, left, with Santos de la Cruz Carrillo in Huajimic, Jalisco, reviewing the map delineating the territory being returned to the Wixárika community of San Sebastian. (Abraham Pérez Vázquez)

In 2016, I went to San Sebastián to report on that land restitution and was received by Miguel Vázquez, leader of the movement. I stayed the night at Miguel’s home, ate breakfast at his table with his wife and the tiny daughter who adored him.

I traveled with him to the first land parcel that had been returned after the court officials had signed over the rights. It was a 184-hectare ranch, just a tiny fragment of those 11,000 hectares.

Local law enforcement had refused to accompany them to take possession of the land, and the ranchers of the community of Huajimic — the community whose members had generations ago been wrongly granted title to that land by a corrupt government — blocked the entrance road and threatened violence.

So the Indigenous community organized.

More than 1,000 walked together to the land parcel, taking the back route through the mountains. They took turns accompanying the two families as they set up their homestead, and for many weeks afterward until things had settled down, which was when I came to visit. 

Five months later, Miguel and his brother Agustín were dead, shot down in broad daylight by cartel members. It wasn’t until last year that the community had the courage to take up the issue again, this time under the leadership of schoolteacher-turned-authority Oscar Hernández, who organized a 1,000-km march to the nation’s capital to demand support from President López Obrador.

President Lopez Obrador with Wixarika leaders at Mexico's National Palace
De la Cruz, kneeling in front, second from left, was part of a 1,000-km march in 2022 to the nation’s capital by Wixárika leaders from Durango, Jalisco and Nayarit to demand greater security for their people, targeted by cartels in the region. (Presidencia)

That march led to a visit by López Obrador to the Wixárika territories and a security plan for the region. But security remains highly elusive, as does justice for those who seek restitution of their lands.

Meanwhile, back in Santos’ home territory, after the long legal fight and the victory, the most dangerous part of the work begins. Thankfully, he and his family are OK — for now. But I am painfully aware of his precarious position and that of literally hundreds of Indigenous land defenders. 

It is time to stop the impunity and the violence, and time to look within to see what we can do to support Indigenous land defenders like Santos who are putting their lives on the line to defend what remains of the Earth’s wild places. They are doing the work on behalf of all of us.

Tracy L. Barnett is a freelance writer based in Guadalajara. She is the founder of The Esperanza Project, a bilingual magazine covering social change movements in the Americas.

Consumer advocacy group urges judges to uphold smoking ban

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Person smoking a cigarette
Hundreds of businesses across the country have filed lawsuits against the anti-smoking law since it went into effect in January. (Valtierra Ruvalcaba / Cuartoscuro.com)

The Mexican consumer advocacy non-profit Consumer Power (El Poder del Consumidor) has issued a statement expressing concern about the recent “wave” of lawsuits from businesses fighting the anti-smoking regulation that went into effect in January, which banned smoking in public and open places. The BBC described it as “one of the most stringent anti-smoking laws in the world.” 

“From civil society, we call upon the judiciary to not give way before the … interests of businesses and corporations,” said the organization’s legal coordinator, Javier Zúñiga in a press conference.

A no smoking sign on a mirrored wall in a pastry shop.
Smoking is now prohibited by federal law in open-air public spaces like restaurants, parks and beaches. (Moisés Pablo Nava / Cuartoscuro.com)

Zúñiga emphasized that tobacco use is the leading preventable cause of death globally, and said that each year, 63,200 people die in Mexico from smoking-related illnesses.

According to the new regulation, smoking is no longer allowed in outdoor spaces, though if considered a 100% smoke-free space, there should be visible signs placed in the area and in all access to public spaces. 

People found smoking in forbidden areas may be subject to fines or even arrest for 36 hours. The economic sanctions for smoking or lighting up any nicotine product in smoke-free spaces can be as high as $10,374 pesos (US $551.89).

Restaurants, bars and hotels are allowed to designate certain areas for the exclusive use of smokers, however, no drinks or food can be served in those areas. In addition, these areas must be at least 10 meters away from where nonsmokers are congregated. Commercial establishments in violation can be subject to partial or complete closure — temporarily or permanently, depending on the seriousness of the offense.

The law also prohibits display of cigarette advertising in stores, though on Feb. 21, FEMSA, which owns the ubiquitous Oxxo convenience store chain, won a definitive suspension order against the law, allowing stores to once again display cigarettes for sale.

“The [new regulation] exceeded what the law says. Regulations cannot exceed what the law says. Surely there will be amparos (a lawsuit to seek protection from government rights violations) and they will for sure win,” Vicente Yáñez, president of the National Association of Supermarket and Department Stores, told Aristegui Noticias after the ban came into effect. 

“From our point of view, this regulation goes against free trade: it restricts a restaurant from providing its services with a measure that contravenes the development of the economy,” said Víctor Arellano, who represents El Gran León de Oro cantina in Mexico City, in El País newspaper.

The cantina was the first to file an amparo after the new rules were published, and was granted a definitive suspension order by a judge on Feb. 8, allowing the restaurant to operate as it did before the smoking ban (with a designated smoking section).

Many other restaurants, bars and other businesses across the country have also taken legal action. According to the National Alliance of Small Businesses (ANPEC), which represents more than 225,000 micro-businesses in Mexico, over 700 suits have been filed against the new law in 25 states.

An ANPEC press release published on Feb. 21 characterized the regulation as “prohibitionist” and said it “threatens the 2 million self-employed in small businesses.” 

Some businesses have already failed in their lawsuits, including the national VIPS restaurant chain, whose provisional suspension order was denied by a judge last month.

Habano 2000 smoke shop in Mexico City filed an amparo asking to continue advertisement of products made with tobacco, but according to a report in Sin Embargo, the judge denied the suspension as it would “contravene provisions of public order and social interest due to the damage that consumption of products made with tobacco can cause to the public.”

With reports from  El País, El Universal, La Jornada, EFE

Mexico opens “innovation” consulate in Mumbai

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New Mexican consulate in Mumbai, India
The new consulate in Mumbai, Mexico's Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard said, is Mexico's "first consulate oriented at innovation and investment in science and technology."

Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard officially opened a Mexican consulate in the Indian city of Mumbai earlier this week.

Formerly known as Bombay, Mumbai is the financial hub of India, which is expected to overtake China as the most populous country in the world in April.

Opening of Mexican consulate in Mumbai, India
The consulate opened earlier this week with a formal ceremony attended by Mexico’s Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard, center. (SRE)

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs (SRE) said in a statement that the aim of opening a consulate in Mumbai was to “accelerate relations” with Indian business leaders in sectors including health, entertainment, textiles and agri-food.

At the inauguration, Ebrard said that the relationship between Mexico and India is closer than ever “for several reasons,” including “geopolitical stress and similarities in our positions in the world,” investment flows between the two countries and “the will” of President López Obrador and Prime Minister Narendra Modi to strengthen ties.

According to the Indian Embassy in Mexico, India — the fifth largest economy in the world — had investments in Mexico in 2020 that were worth more than US $3 billion. Mexico — the world’s 15th largest economy — had investments of about $1 billion in India, the embassy said.

Mexico and India established diplomatic relations in 1950 and agreed to enhance their partnership during Modi’s visit to Mexico in 2016.

India's Prime Minister Narendra Modi with Mexico's former president Enrique Peña Nieto in 2016
Mexico and India established diplomatic relations in 1950 and agreed to enhance their partnership during the visit of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, left, to Mexico in 2016 during the presidency of Enrique Pena Nieto, right. (Moisés Pablo Nava/Cuartoscuro)

Last week, the two countries reached an agreement to collaborate on and jointly finance “binational development and innovation projects in several fields,” including ones related to water, lithium, the aerospace industry, biotechnology and vaccines.

The new consulate in Mumbai, Ebrard said, is Mexico’s “first consulate oriented at innovation and investment in science and technology.”

Its opening “will allow us to extend our economic ties and promote initiatives in thriving sectors like textiles, plastic, pharmaceuticals, petrochemicals and agri-food, among many others,” the SRE said.

“In addition, this new consular office will serve as an economic promotion platform in the center and south of India,” the ministry said.

The SRE also said that the consulate will provide protection and assistance to Mexicans in India and issue visas to Indian citizens planning to travel to Mexico for business, tourism and educational purposes.

Mexico News Daily 

Human rights commission urges national forensic policy in Mexico

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Families of the disappeared attend a hearing
The families of missing lawyer Ricardo Lagunas and Antonio Diaz were in attendance at the special hearing in Los Angeles. (Prodh/Twitter)

The Inter-American Commission on Human Rights (IACHR) has called for Mexico to develop a comprehensive national forensic policy to help confront the crisis of disappearances in the country.

IACHR vice-president and rapporteur for Mexico, Esmeralda Arosemena de Troitiño, made the statement during a public hearing on Thursday. The hearing was held in Los Angeles, California and attended by Mexican representatives and led by national search commissioner Karla Quintana.

A CNB team search for bodies in Veracruz state
The Mexican government is struggling to come to terms with the scale of disappearances in the country. (@busqueda_MX/Twitter)

Arosemena acknowledged the government had made efforts to tackle the disappearance crisis, but said more effective coordination between institutions was needed to address the estimated 52,000 unidentified bodies in the country.

“A national public policy that has this concept of responsibility for the articulation, for the coordination, the strengthening of the institutions themselves, endowed with resources, is indispensable,” she said.

The hearing was also attended by families of the missing, including relatives of lawyer Ricardo Lagunes and indigenous leader Antonio Díaz, who disappeared between Michoacán and Coahuila on Jan. 15, and the mother of Víctor Adrián Rodríguez Moreno, who disappeared in Coahuila during 2009.

Families of the disappeared said they felt abandoned by the Mexican government. They criticized “institutional inefficiency,” particularly in cases involving migrants which required coordination with other countries. They also complained that families had been shut out of relevant legislative processes since Dec. 2021.

Esmerelda Arosemena de Troitiño presides over the special hearing
Esmerelda Arosemena de Troitiño presided over the hearing. (Centro Prodh/Twitter)

“If families do not participate, this [comprehensive policy] will not be achieved either, because they are that internal engine of not only the feeling but the need for truth and justice,” Arosemena agreed.

For their part, the Mexican delegation pointed to advances such as the creation of the Extraordinary Forensic Identification Mechanism and the National Forensic Data Bank (BNDF). Representatives of the Attorney General’s Office (FGR) said this national database of forensic information already hosts the records of more than 15,100 missing persons and 8,000 bodies that are yet to be identified.

“Thanks to this tool we now have a record of 616 clandestine graves from which 1,264 bodies have been recovered,” said Joaquín Torres, general director of the FGR’s Special Prosecutor’s Office for Human Rights.

However, the human rights organization Centro Prodh questioned Torres’ claim that the BNDF was already in operation. Instead, the NGO said that the Mexican Attorney General’s Office (FGR) has litigated against families who demand its implementation.

The BNDF was established in 2017 through the General Law on the Disappearance of Persons, which stated that the database should be ready by 2019. By 2022 it was still not operational, and several court cases brought by relatives of the disappeared found the FGR was remiss in allowing the delay. The FGR has appealed the decisions.

Mexico’s National Database of Missing and Unlocated Persons (RNPDNO) currently lists more than 112,000 disappeared people in Mexico. The figure has climbed steadily over the last 20 years, particularly since around 2016.

At the hearing, Centro Prodh stressed that the families’ testimony “shows that disappearances are not yesterday’s inheritance but today’s sad reality.”

With reports from Latinus, La Jornada and Infobae

OPEC secretary general meets with President López Obrador

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Mexico President Lopez Obrador and OPEC leader Haitham Al Ghais
The visit of OPEC Secretary General Haitham Al Ghais to Mexico is historic in that it's the first time OPEC's leader has come here. Mexico is a member of the OPEC+ consortium. (Presidencia)

The federal government has found a like-minded energy sector ally in the chief of the Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), who on Thursday praised Mexico for investing in oil refineries.

President López Obrador — an energy nationalist who has championed the ongoing use of fossil fuels while showing more muted support for renewables — met in Mexico City with Haitham al-Ghais, secretary general of OPEC, a group of 13 countries including Iran, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Nigeria and Venezuela.

OPEC Secretary Haitham Al Ghais with Mexico's Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro at World Market of Oil presentation in Mexico City
The OPEC secretary general, right, with Economy Minister Rocío Nahle, left, at the World Market of Oil event. (Rocío Nahle/Twitter)

Energy Minister Rocío Nahle also attended the meeting, and later on Thursday hosted a “World Oil Market” event at which al-Ghais was the main draw.

López Obrador, a native of the oil-rich state of Tabasco, noted on social media that it was the first time than an OPEC chief had visited Mexico, and he asserted that he and al-Ghais understood each other well.

The federal government has invested heavily to increase Mexico’s oil refining capacity as the president seeks to make the country self-sufficient for fuel. It has built a new refinery on the Tabasco coast, purchased Shell Oil Company’s share of a jointly-owned refinery in Texas and spent some 50 billion pesos (US $2.7 billion) to upgrade Pemex’s six operational refineries in Mexico.

Al-Ghais, a Kuwaiti oil executive who became OPEC’s chief last August, congratulated Mexico — which is part of a larger OPEC+ grouping of oil-producing nations — for its “vision” in investing in refining capacity at a time when many countries are closing refineries and focusing on growing the renewable energy sector.

When Al Ghais became the secretary of OPEC, in January 2022, Mexico’s Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro made a point of congratulating him on behalf of Mexico on Twitter.

 

“Investing is key for a successful future because we’re going to need more oil,” he said at the Energy Ministry event.

“… What you are doing … here in Mexico is not just for the country, … it’s for humanity as a whole, you’re boosting global growth,” al-Ghais said.

He said that OPEC members are also investing heavily in oil production and refining, and noted that he spoke with López Obrador and Nahle about the importance of Mexico reaching self-sufficiency for fuel.

Al-Ghais predicted that demand for oil will continue to grow in coming decades and make up 30% of the world’s energy mix in 2045. He asserted that some US $12.3 trillion in global investment in the oil and gas industries will be required by the same year.

“We have to be realistic. Renewables are not enough. Although we celebrate and support the [energy] transition, today we remain in this reality, not because we don’t want more renewables but because they’re insufficient to meet demand,” al-Ghais said.

López Obrador said Friday that the OPEC chief “values highly what Mexico is doing in terms of oil policy.”

“… We wish that oil was no longer used, that fossil fuels were no longer used, that the environment was looked after more, but there are processes that have to be carried out in the energy transition,” he said.

Tesla gigafactory rendering for Nuevo Leon, Mexico
There are not very many electric vehicles on Mexico’s roads currently, but that could change in the near future: both BMW and Tesla have imminent plans to manufacture EVs here. (Tesla)

“… Two or three years ago, there was a campaign from experts [saying] that oil was no longer going to be used, that everything was going to be electric. And it was so powerful that even multinational oil companies began to believe this forecast and started to put their refineries up for sale,” López Obrador said.

After noting that Mexico’s state oil company Pemex bought Shell’s stake in the Texas refinery, he said he regretted not buying “three instead of one.”

Nahle said Thursday that 53 million vehicles in Mexico collectively require over 1 million barrels of gasoline per day.

There are relatively few electric vehicles on Mexico’s roads, but that could change as the manufacture of EVs ramps up here. Tesla and BMW both recently announced plans to make EVs in Mexico, with the former set to build a gigafactory near the Nuevo León capital of Monterrey.

With reports from Milenio, Expansión, El Economista and El Universal

Health regulator fights to revoke cannabis permits it issued

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Cannabis plants
The nation's health regulator Cofepris says it can't be sure that the cannabis-containing products to be sold by the company will be safe. (Isabel Mateos Hinojosa/Cuartoscuro)

Health regulator Cofepris has launched a legal challenge against a court ruling that forced it to issue permits to allow the Mexican subsidiary of a Canadian company to cultivate cannabis and make cannabis products in Mexico.

Xebra Brands announced Thursday that Cofepris had granted its Mexican subsidiary Desart MX (known as Xebra México) “an outright first-mover-advantage in Mexico, by officially issuing corporate cannabis authorizations to — among other permissions — import and acquire cannabis seeds, cultivate and harvest cannabis, process and produce cannabis and sell cannabis products both domestically and through export.”

Xebra Brands CBD wellness products
These are some of the products with cannabis that Xebra Brands appears to be ready to sell in Mexico. (Xebra Brands)

“This represents an important moment for cannabis globally, with the first-ever grant for full cultivation, harvesting, processing and commercial activities to a corporate entity in Mexico,” said CEO Jay Garnett.

The company said in a statement that “there are no restrictions on where in Mexico Xebra can cultivate cannabis, nor on the size of the cultivation facilities, [nor] the volume of processing and manufacturing operations.”

“The authorizations will initially apply specifically to the commercialization of cannabis products with low levels of THC (under 1%),” Xebra Brands said.

THC, or tetrahydrocannabinol, is the main psychoactive constituent of marijuana — the substance that gets users high, in other words.

Alejandro Svarch Pérez, head of Mexico's Cofepris health regulator agency
Alejandro Svarch Pérez, head of Cofepris, the agency that has raised concerns. (Presidencia)

Xebra Brands said it would provide an update on its plans for the Mexican cannabis market in the coming weeks. It noted that it announced in December 2021 that “five Supreme Court justices voted unanimously in favor of granting Xebra México an irrevocable injunction to commercialize cannabis products.”

Cofepris, however, believes the authorizations it issued can be revoked.

Without naming Xebra, the regulator acknowledged in a statement that it had issued permits for the “cultivation, processing, production and commercialization of industrial cannabis as well as the importation of seeds, processing of plant material and production of cannabidiol [CBD] oil,” which is used to treat health issues such as stress and anxiety and doesn’t cause a “high.”

Cofepris said it only granted the authorizations because it was “obliged” to do so due to a ruling handed down in a district court.

Xebra Brands
Jay Garnett is the CEO of Xebra Brands. (Xebra Brands)

“The health authority highlights that it fulfilled its obligations as a public institution, complying with legal orders in the face of threats of fines and dismissals of public servants,” it said.

However, Cofepris added that it “doesn’t have sufficient information to determine that this product [cannabis] is safe for the purposes that the multinational intends to use it.”

“… Due to the serious health risk an authorization of this type represents … appeals have been presented in the Third Collegiate Circuit Court, with which [Cofepris] seeks to reverse and invalidate the authorization in order to protect people’s health,” the regulator said, noting that the Interior Ministry is supporting the legal action.

It was unclear when that court would consider the appeals.

The Supreme Court ruled in 2019 that prohibition of marijuana is unconstitutional because criminalization violates the right to free development of personality. It has directed Congress to legalize marijuana for recreational purposes, but lawmakers have repeatedly missed deadlines to do so.

Mexico News Daily 

Consider Mexico City for your next family vacation

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Ballet Folklórico de México de Amalia Hernández in Mexico City
Think that a Mexican traditional dance show will be a snore-fest for the kids? The writers' daughter was mesmerized by a performance by the Ballet Folklórico de México de Amalia Hernández.

Mexico City might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of a family-friendly travel destination. Beaches, cruises and Disneyland are probably higher up on your list. But Mexico City isn’t just for foodies, hipsters and history buffs.

With its abundance of kid-friendly museums, parks and other attractions, it’s also a fantastic place for families. It has become our family’s go-to vacation destination, especially in the spring when school is out for the Mexican holidays of Semana Santa (Holy Week) and Easter (Pascua — this year from April 3–14). It’s the perfect time to visit when it isn’t as crowded and the jacaranda trees are blooming. 

If you decide to visit Mexico City this spring or anytime, here are some recommendations for where to stay and what to do that the whole family will enjoy.

Where to stay

Mexico City is a massive place, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed deciding where to make your home base. For families, I recommend skipping the big hotels in the city center and staying at a smaller hotel or rental apartment within walking distance of one of the city’s beautiful neighborhood parks, such as Parque Mexico and Parque España in the Condesa neighborhood or Parque Lincoln and Parque América in Polanco.

Staying close to a park gives the kids a place to play any time of day. Most have large playgrounds, skating areas, extensive walking and biking paths, gardens, duck ponds and other unique features like the audioramas (spaces for quiet reflection or reading) in Parque México and Parque España and the aviary at Parque Lincoln. All have ice cream shops, bakeries and cafes nearby — perfect for an after-playtime treat. 

Angel of Independence in Mexico City
Most Sundays of the year, the capital’s Reforma Avenue — a feast for the senses that’s easy on the pocket and has some of Mexico’s most famous landmarks — is closed to traffic between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m., perfect for strolling sightseeing.

Active Adventures

If your family likes to be outside and active, there are several great options right in or just outside the city center.

  • Bosque Chapultepec is a massive park complex in the middle of the city, twice the size of New York’s Central Park. The park has nearly everything a kid could want, including playgrounds, bike paths, a house of mirrors, ziplines, a carousel, a lake with rental boats, a zoo, oodles of food carts and stands selling any treat imaginable, plus a museum just for kids — El Papalote. Recently opened is the Centro de Cultura Ambiental (Center for Environmental Culture), a vast exhibition space and gardens that are free to explore. You could spend all day (or several days) at the Bosque and not see everything.
  • If you happen to be the city on a Sunday, I recommend getting the family down to Avenida Reforma when the street is closed to car traffic from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. (except on the last Sunday of the month and during December) and join the throngs of folks walking, biking, strolling and skating down the avenue. It’s a pedestrian party that passes by several architectural gems such as el Ángel de la Independencia, Mexico’s iconic monument, which is great to see when there are no cars to contend with.
  • About a 1.5-hour drive north of the city center is the pre-Hispanic architectural complex of Teotihuacán. Here, you can explore what was once one of the most populous and influential cities in Mesoamerica, and marvel at the size of the pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. You can also get a birds-eye view of the site on one of the hot-air balloon rides available.
Museo Jumex in Mexico City
Despite being a museum of contemporary art, the Museo Jumex has lots of quirky, kid-friendly exhibits.

Art & Culture

If you are looking to expose your kids to the arts, here are some must-do experiences:

  • The Ballet Folklórico de Mexico de Amalia Hernandez is a world-renowned dance company that performs traditional dances from all over Mexico. If you catch their show at either the Palacio de Belles Artes or Castillo de Chapultepec, you will be treated not only to a stunning performance but also experience it in some breathtaking surroundings. We’ve seen the performance in both locations, and our daughter and her friends were simply mesmerized.
  • You might not think a trip to a modern art museum would be something a kid would enjoy, but the exhibits at the Museo Jumex are out-of-this-world extraordinary and engaging, even for youngsters. Another modern art museum to check out is the Museo del Futuro (MUFO) a funky art “experience” featuring unique exhibits which use light and sound to vibrate your whole body, as well as an immersive digital art hall with flowing and vibrant shapes and patterns.
  • If you visit this spring, don’t miss “Disney’s Aladdin,” starring Mexican leading man Rodney Ingram, who appeared on the production on Broadway. Even if you don’t understand Spanish, you will appreciate the fantastic music, dancing, costumes and sets, and your kids will thank you a million times over for taking them. Performances run through April 16, 2023.
boat rides at Xochimilco, Mexico City
The boat rides at Xochimilco include food offerings and live mariachi bands that can play on your vessel. The outing was a hit with these discerning travelers.

Kids’ Top Picks

Of course, the best recommendations come from kids themselves. Here are some of our daughter’s and her friends’ favorite attractions and treats in Mexico City.

  • Kidzania is hands-down their favorite attraction. It’s a mini indoor city created just for kids, where they basically have total autonomy to explore and do “jobs” like firefighter, police officer, scientist, engineer, chef and more, and make “money” they can spend on toys and treats. The whole thing is, of course, sponsored by corporations, but it’s really well done. Parents have their own hangout area, and the kids wear bracelets that transmit their location so that you can keep track of their whereabouts while you sit back and chill. 
  • Your kids will love a day out on the colorful boats of Xochimilco — a historic canal system that was the city’s main mode of transport in pre-Hispanic times. You can hire a boat for about 600 pesos per hour and cruise the canals and enjoy a song from one of the floating mariachi bands or lunch from a boat-based taquería. It’s a bit of a party scene on the weekends, so it’s best to go during the week to avoid the crowds and booze-cruisers. 
  • As for where to find the best treats, our kids’ favorites include El Moro for churros and hot chocolate, Bendita Paleta and Gelato for ice cream, Pasteleria Suiza for cakes and chocolates, and daring their dad to eat scorpions at the Mercado San Juan!

Debbie Slobe is a writer and communications strategist based in Chacala, Nayarit. She blogs at Mexpatmama.com and is a senior program director at Resource Media. Find her on Instagram and Facebook.

Thousands across Mexico march for International Women’s Day

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Veracruz International Women's Day march 2023
Women march in Xalapa, Veracruz. The woman's sign in the foreground says, "For those who left and never returned." (Cuartoscuro)

“They were taken alive, we want them back alive” and “not one more [femicide]” were among the chants heard across Mexico on Wednesday as women took to the streets to demand an end to gender violence on International Women’s Day.

Marches were held in numerous cities, including Guadalajara, Monterrey, Morelia, Chihuahua, Puebla, Oaxaca, Zacatecas and Mérida.

Marchers at International Women's Day March 2023 in Mexico City
Female drummers marching in Mexico City. Their shirts say, “Silence doesn’t protect.” (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)

In Mexico City, some 90,000 women and girls participated in a march that concluded in the Zócalo, the capital’s central square. Silvia Vargas, a 67-year-old woman whose daughter was murdered in 2014, was in the crowd.

“Not everyone gets human rights; governments and institutions determine them,” she told the Reuters news agency. “I’m going home to an absence that has marked me for life.”

Around 10 women are killed every day in Mexico, and other forms of gender violence such as rape and assault are common.

Another concern for many women is the absence of abortion rights in most Mexican states. Abortion is legal in just 10 of Mexico’s 31 states, as well as in Mexico City.

International Women's Day protests in Merida, Mexico
In Mérida, some protesters accosted police assigned to the march, and spraypainted slogans on police shields and the Government Palace. (Martín Zetina/Cuartoscuro)

Demonstrators in the Yucatán capital of Mérida were among those calling for abortion to be legalized in their state. Women across the country wore green to demonstrate their support for abortion rights and/or purple — the color of the feminist movement.

While the Mexico City government said the march in Mexico City was largely peaceful, it also said that “a small group of people with their faces covered used explosive devices, sticks and other dangerous objects to break glass and cause disturbances.”

Police seized a range of items, including hammers, bats, aerosol paint cans and flammable liquids, government officials said.

In Monterrey, small groups of aggressive protesters vandalized buildings in the city center and set fire to the front doors of the Nuevo León government palace. There were also clashes between demonstrators and police.

International Women's Day march 2023 in Mazatán, Sinaloa.
An organizer rallies the crowd at a International Women’s Day march march in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. (Rose Egelhoff)

A “handful” of people “attacked, pushed and insulted” female police officers, Nuevo León Governor Samuel García said on Twitter on Thursday.

“They even reached the point of shouting, ‘Burn them, for being traitors.’ For me and the rest of Nuevo León, it’s clear that you did your job: to protect and to serve. My admiration and respect again. Thank you,” Garcia wrote.

At his Wednesday morning press conference, President López Obrador — who has been accused of having a “woman problem” — declared that his government supports “women’s fight in defense of their rights” and asserted that a lot of progress has been made on the issue in Mexico.

International Women's Day rally in Veracruz, Mexico
A quiet moment at a rally in Veracruz. (Victoria Razo/Cuartoscuro)

The “fourth transformation is feminist,” he declared at an International Women’s Day event later on Wednesday, using a byword for his government and the change he says it is bringing to Mexico.

With reports from El FinancieroLa Jornada and Reuters 

AMLO discusses gigafactory plans with Tesla team

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AMLO and ministers with Tesla technicians and executives
President López Obrador said "we advanced" on the factory plans after meeting with Tesla executives and technicians.(@LopezObrador Twitter)

President López Obrador met with Tesla executives at the National Palace on Wednesday to discuss the company’s construction of a new electric car gigafactory in Nuevo León.

The meeting was attended by the Economy Minister, Raquel Buenrostro; Foreign Minister Marcelo Ebrard; Finance Minister Rogelio Ramírez de la O; and Germán Martínez Santoyo, head of the National Water Commission (Conagua).

Mexican ministers and Tesla executives meet to discuss the new plant in Nuevo Leon
President López Obrador and his cabinet met with Tesla executives and technicians to discuss investment and development of Tesla’s new gigafactory in Nuevo León. (Presidencia/Twitter)

“We met with Tesla executives and technicians. We advanced on the project of the automotive plant of Nuevo León and on others. We’re doing well,” AMLO said on Twitter.

Tesla’s huge gigafactory will be constructed in the municipality of Santa Catarina, about 17 kilometers from Monterrey, with an expected investment of US $5 billion. It will have the capacity to produce 1 million cars a year, which may include Tesla’s upcoming “Model 2”.

The factory is expected to employ around 6,000 people and create nearly 30,000 more indirect jobs. It will generate about 250 million pesos (US $13.8 million) in taxes for the municipality.

AMLO was previously skeptical of Tesla’s plans to invest in Nuevo León, citing the state’s historic water shortages. He suggested the southeast of the country as a more suitable location.

Tesla production line
A Tesla gigafactory assembly line, similar to the one that will be built in Nuevo León. (Tesla)

Despite these misgivings, the president announced a deal last week, under which Tesla will first conduct an evaluation of Nuevo León’s water supply to ensure the factory’s usage will not threaten local consumption.

Tesla sent between 30 and 50 people to the northern state this week to start preparing the area for construction. Specialists warn that leveling the ground will be a complicated process, as the area is “very rugged”.

Nevertheless, the governor of Nuevo León, Samuel García, said that construction was expected to start in April or May, and would proceed rapidly. It is hoped that the factory will be fully operational by the end of this year or early 2024.

“Today, work begins between the Tesla team, the state government team and the city team for the critical journey from here to the first stone of the Tesla gigafactory, which we hope will be in a month, maximum two and a half months,” said Jesús Nava, mayor of Santa Catarina.

Tesla also has plans for other investments in Mexico, according to Reforma newspaper, including an electric battery factory.

With reports from Reforma and Forbes

Inflation declines in February

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The entrance to the Central Bank of Mexico (Banxico)
The Bank of Mexico announced Thursday that it was ending a nearly 2-year-streak of raising interest rates. (Santiago Castillo Chomel/Shutterstock)

Annual headline and core inflation rates both declined in February compared to the previous month, indicating that record high interest rates are helping to moderate consumer prices.

The national statistics agency INEGI reported Thursday that headline inflation was 7.62% last month, down from 7.91% in January.

A stallholder sells vegetables at a tianguis
The volatile price of food has driven inflation in recent months. (Alejandro Linares Garcia)

The rate – the lowest since last March – was slightly lower than the 7.67% consensus from analysts surveyed by Citibanamex.

The core inflation rate, which strips out some volatile food and energy prices, fell to 8.29% in February from 8.45% in January. That rate is also slightly below the forecast of analysts polled by Citibanmex.

The publication of the latest inflation data comes exactly one month after the Bank of México (Banxico) lifted its benchmark interest rate by 50 basis points to a new record high of 11%.

The central bank’s board will hold its next monetary policy meeting on March 30. Inflation remains well above Banxico’s target of 3% plus or minus one percentage point.

The bank said last month that it expects inflation to converge to its target in the final quarter of 2024, but noted that the projection is subject to a range of risks including “pressures on energy prices or on agricultural and livestock product prices” and “exchange rate depreciation.”

Banxico also said that its next upward adjustment to its interest rate “could be of lower magnitude” compared to the 50-basis-point hike it announced Feb. 9.

INEGI data shows that prices for processed food, beverages and tobacco rose 13.7% over the past 12 months, the highest increase among the different categories monitored.

Inflation for goods in general was 10.65% while meat prices rose 10.22%. Fruit and vegetables were 8.12% more expensive in February than a year earlier, the cost of services increased 5.55% and energy prices, including those for fuel and electricity, rose 2.77%.

Banorte said Thursday that both headline and core inflation “will likely show a clearer decline for the rest of the year due to favorable base effects stemming from the distortions after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in late February 2022.”

“Another positive factor is the accumulated appreciation of the Mexican peso in annual terms, with the latter reaching its strongest level since 2017,” the bank said in a statement.

However, “companies’ hesitancy to cut and/or reduce the pace of recent price increases as the economy remains resilient and cost pressures abound” and “the possibility of a harsh drought season in coming months” could affect the pace at which inflation declines, Banorte said.

With reports from El Financiero, El Economista and El Universal