Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Can economics save Jalisco’s toxic Santiago River?

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Ahogado creek in El Salto, Jalisco
The Ahogado creek, filled with industrial waste and raw sewage from toilets, flows out of the Ahogado dam toward the Santiago River. The smoke is from someone in the vicinity burning tires.

A new movement is afoot to clean up Jalisco’s Rio Santiago, widely considered one of the most — if not the most polluted river — in Mexico. And the charge is not being led by environmental activists but by a group of economists.

Well, ecological economists.

The Santiago River in El Salto, Jalisco
Life near the Santiago River is noxiously smelly, a side effect of the real problems facing residents of El Salto: they breathe in the aerosols generated by the moving water. (Fernando Carranza García/Cuartoscuro)

Salvador Peniche of CUCEA, the University of Guadalajara’s Center for Economic Sciences (under the leadership of Gustavo Padilla and Margarita Hernández) has teamed up with his colleagues in the International Society of Ecological Economics to issue a clarion call to government, business and the public at large:

“¡Verguenza! Shame!” they are crying out over the toxic waste and raw sewage that flows through what used to be one of Mexico’s most beautiful rivers before it was contaminated by an overwhelming number of toxic chemicals coming from one of Mexico’s largest industrial zones.

The Santiago River flows westwards from Lake Chapala via Ocotlán through the states of Jalisco and Nayarit to empty into the Pacific Ocean. It is one of the longest rivers in Mexico, over 400 km long.

The sad state of the Santiago made headlines in 2008 when 8-year-old Miguel Ángel López of El Salto, Jalisco, waded into the river to retrieve a soccer ball and died 18 days later, not from drowning but from having swallowed a mouthful of river water containing 400 times the amount of arsenic a human being can tolerate.

El Salto falls
El Salto de Juanacatlán falls, once called “Mexico’s Niagara,” as it looked in 1909 (top) and as it looks today.

The public outcry resulted in the construction of the Ahogado sewage treatment plant in 2012. That reduced the amount of fecal matter in the river but did little about the more than 1,000 contaminants — including chrome, cobalt, mercury, arsenic, benzene, toluene and chloroform, just to name a few.  

These heavy metals and synthetic compounds come from the second largest industrial zone in Mexico, located just above the river. In the zone, there are 600 plants producing everything from chemicals and steel to textiles and powdered milk. Many of them are owned by foreign companies.

Over the years, there have been numerous campaigns to stop these companies from polluting the river, including by Greenpeace. In the end, however, the river remains toxic, and the people who live alongside it in El Salto are paying the price.

They breathe the aerosols generated by the moving water, and they get sick. The incidence of cancer is several times higher in the municipality of El Salto than elsewhere in Mexico.

Ahogado dam in Jalisco, Mexico
Dr. Salvador Peniche, second from left, converses with University of Guadalajara students at the Ahogado dam.

“See that street?” local resident Enrique Enciso says in the excellent documentary about the Santiago, “Silent River.” “There are eight houses on this block, and in six of them, somebody has cancer. “

The harm that the river’s contaminants are doing to the people of El Salto have made headlines for years, but no one has succeeded in cleaning up what many call “The River from Hell.”

So how is it that economists have now taken on this task?

I put this question to Peniche. 

Activists in El Salto, Jalisco meeting with a University of Guadalajara delegation of academics
A University of Guadalajara delegation meets with founders of the local activist group, El Salto de Vida, which means “the leap for life.”

“We call this ‘shame economics,'” he says. “Basically, we want to demonstrate with satellite maps and with local sensors the deplorable state of the river basin and how it’s affecting people’s health. Then we want to make this public, and we want to calculate the cost of it all.”

These economists are calculating the cost of the services residents are not getting; the cost of the harm being done to nature, “the cost of so many people losing their kidneys; the cost of conjunctivitis; the cost of cancer,” Peniche explains.

They are interested in measuring all of these factors scientifically, he explains, “which is why we are working with satellite image experts, data managers, people who will help us get measurements — hard scientific data that we can present through the media.”

In other words, these economists want to quantify the scale and costs of the problem and give the public the scientific evidence it needs to act.

Ahogado dam in Jalisco, Mexico
A cow munches on water hyacinths inside the swampy Ahogado dam, within sight of several factories.

“What we are trying to do is to generate awareness here,” Peniche says. “As someone once wrote, ‘The silence we have kept greatly resembles stupidity!’”

Perhaps the best way to come to an awareness of this problem is to participate in what the people of El Salto call “El Tour de Terror.”

This is a visit to the Ahogado creek and dam, where raw sewage and industrial waste collect and work their way down to the river.

The tour is simply disgusting.

Dr. Salvadore Peniche in El Salto, Jalisco
Dr. Salvador Peniche hopes that shame economics will result in a clean-up of the Santiago River.

Stop number one is at a point where Guadalajara’s Periférico, or Ring Road, meets the main highway going to the city’s international airport. At the corner of two streets quaintly named Biblia and Rosario, we pulled up next to what looked like a drainage ditch. 

We stepped out of the car to be hit by a stench that nearly gagged us.

This was the natural bed of the Ahogado creek, and raw sewage from countless houses all around us was flowing into it. 

Our next stop was a spot only 100 meters north of the airport. Here we found great gobs of garbage floating on the creek’s surface. Amongst the plastic bags, worn-out tires and “icebergs” of Styrofoam, we spotted the bloated corpse of a dead dog. 

Just across the highway from the airport, the river flows right into a grim-looking swamp called the Ahogado dam, which stinks to the high heavens. All around it are located hundreds of factories, and most of them seem to be spilling their residues into the smelly bog. Fat, filthy cows wander about the place, munching on the water hyacinths growing in the muck.

Finally we went to the most infamous point on the Santiago River, El Salto de Juanacatlán falls, once a huge tourist attraction nicknamed “The Mexican Niagara.”

Again, the stench. Amidst the falls’ corrosive spray, Peniche addressed our little group: 

pollutede El Ahogado creek near Guadalajara, Mexico
Garbage floats in the El Ahogado creek as it flows past Guadalajara’s Miguel Hidalgo International Airport.

“This is everybody’s shame, the shame of the government, the industries, the university and the students. How is it possible [that] all of us have permitted a catastrophe of this magnitude!” he said. “We aren’t aiming at confrontation here. No, all of us, all the actors, need to work together in the recuperation of the river basin.”

Shame economics, as described by U.S. economist Paul Sutton and by Peniche, proposes the imposition of a universal tax — or as they refer to it, a duty — onto all factories near the river, based on their individual revenues: a “Collective Industrial Victim Impact Compensation Cost” (a CIVIC Duty).

“This financial levy,” say the two economists, “should be sufficiently painful to incentivize behavior change in the polluters. The beauty of a CIVIC Duty is that, as the river’s environmental qualities improve, the tax goes down. If the river gets worse, the tax goes up.”

“I think the public will like this,” adds Peniche, “because we are not blaming anybody in particular, but rather sounding an alert, to say, ‘Either we move full steam ahead on this or we’re all going to suffer.’”

Coming soon: Río Santiago: the Heavenly River — about the extraordinary natural beauty of the Santiago River and the loss in tourism dollars that its pollution has caused. 

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

Q&A on Mexico real estate with a top agent in San Miguel de Allende

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Finca Garambullo San Miguel de Allende
Finca Garambullo in San Miguel de Allende. (CDR San Miguel)

Meet Joseph W. Lown, a top Realtor® in San Miguel de Allende. With a deep connection to Mexico and a love for small cities, Joseph made a life for himself in San Miguel after moving there in 2009.

As a seasoned real estate professional and a licensed Mexican attorney, Joseph offers unparalleled expertise and insight into the local market.

Joseph Lown, real estate agent in San Miguel de Allende
Joseph W. Lown (Courtesy)

What are the top three things that make Mexico a unique and desirable location for real estate buyers from all around the world, and how do they impact the local markets?

I think it’s all about the three C’s: Climate, Culture, and Carrying costs.

First off, let’s talk about the climate. As a Texan myself, I had no concept of the importance of good year round weather until I moved to Mexico. There are so many incredible places here with near-perfect climates like Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, Ajijic, and of course San Miguel de Allende. And let me tell you, when you’re dealing with the extreme heat in Texas, it’s a game-changer to have a place where you can actually enjoy being outside. That’s something that Mexico has to offer – a wonderful climate for everyone, whether you’re trying to escape the harsh winters up north (the snowbirds) or the sweltering summers down south (the sweat birds).

Now, let’s move on to culture. The expat communities in places like Alamos, Puerto Vallarta, Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, San Miguel, and Ajijic have been cultivated over decades, creating a unique blend of local and international cultures with a great sense of camaraderie between them. These communities have cultivated a deep appreciation for the arts, with strong music and theatrical scenes, as well as their vibrant painting culture and culinary scene. 

Casa Alba San Miguel de Allende
Casa Alba (CDR San Miguel)

Finally, let’s talk about carrying costs. Property taxes in Texas are outrageous, but in Mexico, it’s a whole different story. In San Miguel, for example, property taxes are roughly $240 USD for every $100,000 USD  in evaluation. That’s a far cry from the nearly $3,000 USD you’d pay for the same value property in Texas, where the property tax rate is 3% of the appraised value which is 95% of the market value! That’s a huge difference and can make a big impact on your budget.

Are there any important cultural or legal differences that foreign buyers should be aware of when purchasing property in Mexico?

When buying real estate in Mexico, it’s important to be aware that all legal documents are handled in Spanish of course. However, reputable companies and agents can facilitate English and Spanish translations of contracts to ensure clarity for everyone involved. 

If you’re worried about buying property in Mexico, it’s important to work with someone who has in-depth local knowledge and knows who to do business with and who to steer clear of. This is when having a trusted network is key. It can also put you at ease to know that there’s a public registry for all properties with unique folio numbers. So as long as all your paperwork is in order and you have a Mexican will, that includes everything you own in Mexico, such as your house, belongings, contents of your home, and bank accounts, it should all be smooth sailing.

What are some of the most common misconceptions that people have about buying property in Mexico, and how can you help dispel them?

One of the biggest misconceptions for foreigner buyers, is that you have to buy a house in a trust and can’t buy it in your name. However, that’s only true for the restricted zone, which is 50 kilometers from the ocean and 100 kilometers from the border. In the interior of Mexico, such as in San Miguel, Guadalajara, Mexico City, or even down in Chiapas, you can buy fee simple, meaning the title to the property is in your name, your spouse’s name, or even split percentages. All foreigners make an agreement with the Mexican government commonly known as the SRE permit, which recognizes you as a Mexican in regards to property ownership and recognizes the jurisdiction and court system in Mexico. 

Can you recommend any special events or festivals that showcase the unique culture and heritage of Mexico, and that potential property buyers might enjoy attending?

One of my favorites is the three-day celebration of Halloween, All Saints Day, and Day of the Dead. It’s amazing to see how the Mexican people honor their ancestors and the recently departed during this time. Walking through the streets of San Miguel during this festival, you’ll see beautiful altars adorned with pictures of loved ones and offerings of food and flowers. It’s a touching and beautiful experience that really showcases the Mexican people’s reverence for their heritage and a great way to immerse yourself in the rich traditions of this amazing country.

Another is Easter Week. It’s a big festival in San Miguel, and I think it’s the best time to visit Mexico City as there’s less traffic, the museums and restaurants are still open, and the city has a special vibe. 

Can you recommend any hidden gem neighborhoods in San Miguel de Allende that may not be as well-known but still offer great value?

One important thing to consider is proximity to the center of town. If you’re someone who likes to walk and explore the city, anything within a 20-minute walk of the center will add a lot of value to your experience. One neighborhood that’s just starting to gain popularity is Colonia San Rafael. It’s an interesting area with a lot of potential. Another is Colonia Linda Vista, which has amazing views of the city. You might have to walk up a couple of blocks, but trust me, it’s worth it. Colonia Independencia is another neighborhood that has recently undergone some impressive sidewalk and streetscape improvements, making it a very desirable area to walk into town. If you prefer a flat walk into the center, Mexiquito is an excellent choice located across from the Fábrica Aurora. 

What advice do you have for clients who are just starting to explore the possibility of buying property in Mexico, and how can you help them find the perfect home or investment opportunity?

As someone who’s helped many clients find their dream homes in Mexico, my advice for those just starting their property search is to connect with a reputable real estate company and an agent who truly has their best interests at heart. From there, I like to take clients on a window tour of San Miguel, pointing out the pros and cons of each neighborhood and highlighting the unique characteristics that make them special. Walking around the different areas is also important because you can get a feel for the shops, stores, and overall atmosphere of each one.

Casa Maximus San Miguel de Allende
Casa Maximus (CDR San Miguel)

There’s something for everyone in San Miguel – from equestrian facilities to country club living to purely residential areas – so it’s important to get familiar with all the choices before making a decision. 

Can you share a success story or memorable experience from your career as a realtor in Mexico that highlights the benefits of working with a local expert like yourself?

Every real estate transaction is unique, but what I love about residential real estate is that it’s all about home – that special place. It’s essential to have someone with local knowledge to advise buyers on what’s right for them. 

I have childhood memories of coming to Mexico from as early as 1983, so it’s ingrained in me. This is a huge advantage when it’s time to help buyers find what they’re looking for, like the right neighborhood. For instance, if you’re noise sensitive, a purely residential area might be better than a mixed neighborhood with shops and discos. Additionally, living in a colonial city like San Miguel requires understanding its rhythm, such as the one-way streets in Centro. But living in centro San Miguel has cultural offerings like restaurants, which can be easily enjoyed with friends. Also the further out you go, the more land you can get, which drives the value and price in San Miguel.

If you’re interested in learning more about the Mexican real estate market or have any questions, feel free to contact Joseph W. Lown and visit | CDR San Miguel | Forbes Global Properties.

Mexican sanctuary opens its doors for Pablo Escobar’s hippos

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Feral hippos near former residence of drug lord Pablo Escobar
Feral hippos, descended from those owned by drug lord Pablo Escobar, were relocated from Columbia to a new home in Mexico early this year. (UC San Diego)

To deal with a hippopotamus overpopulation problem in the areas surrounding a ranch once owned by the late cocaine trafficker Pablo Escobar, Colombia is planning to ship at least 70 of the hulking beasts out of the country — including about 10 to Mexico.

Dubbed “cocaine hippos” in a nod to Escobar’s years as a drug lord, some of the animals will reportedly go to zoos and sanctuaries in Mexico, as well as to India. Ecuador, the Philippines and Botswana have also expressed willingness to accept some of the hippos, according to Colombian officials. 

Hacienda Napoles in Colombia
Hacienda Napoles, more or less as the entrance looked at the time of Escobar’s death. (Wikimedia Commons)

One of the planned destinations in Mexico is the Ostok Animal Protection & Sanctuary in La Campana, Sinaloa, where a 30-year-old Asian elephant was placed last year after being rescued from a Veracruz circus in 2014 and nursed back to health.

“We are working with Ernesto Zazueta, who is the president of [Mexico’s Zoo Breeders and Aquariums Association] and who liaises with different countries and manages their rescues,” said Lina de los Ríos Morales, director of animal protection and welfare in a regional branch of Colombia’s Ministry of Environment and Sustainable Development.

The plan to transfer the hippos later in 2023 has been forming for more than a year, de los Ríos Morales said; however, the permits to start the process are still pending. 

The hippos are the descendants of four calves (a male and three females) Escobar trafficked into Colombia in the 1980s from U.S. zoos and kept on his ranch, known as Hacienda Nápoles, in Antioquia, a province in northern Colombia just south of Panama. The hippos were just a fraction of the exotic wildlife Escobar kept on the ranch. 

Hacienda Napoles theme park in Colombia
Hacienda Nápoles today is an aquatic and wildlife theme park. (Hacienda Nápoles)

The property eventually became a wildlife waterpark after Escobar died in a shootout with police in Medellin in 1993. The animals that he had on Hacienda Nápoles were sent to sanctuaries and zoos, but not the hippos.

Territorial and aggressive, the hippos spread far beyond Escobar’s hacienda in the years after his death while his family fought with the Colombian government over ownership of the property. In 2022, the news media outlet France 24 reported that the feral hippos have attacked local residents and that wildlife management officials had only managed to sterilize 10 of the male hippos in the wild herd.

Three of the descendants of the original hippos live in the park. They will not be relocated. 

Living on their own near the Magdalena River and nearby lakes, the “cocaine hippos” outside the park have no natural predators and multiplied to between 130 and 150, environmental authorities said. If left unchecked, the population could reach 400 in eight years and 1,500 in 16 years, authorities say.

Male hippos can weigh up to 4.5 tons and are threatening the area’s natural ecosystems and biodiversity around Hacienda Nápoles. Their feces change the composition of the rivers and could impact the habitat of manatees and capybaras.

In 2022, Colombia’s government declared hippos an invasive alien species and called for a plan of action.

Relocating them won’t be easy.

Not only are the costs of containers and airlifts prohibitive, but simply capturing the animals will be a major chore. Officials said they must lure them with food and then get each hippo into a guacal (a large shipping container), which will then be driven 150 kilometers by truck to the José María Córdova International Airport outside of Medellín.

hippo at Hacienda Napoles in Colombia
Some of the original hippos Escobar owned — including the tame visitor favorite, Vanessa — are still on the former Escobar property. They will not be relocated. (Hacienda Nápoles)

Environmental authorities plan to capture young hippos that have not yet reached their adulthood weight, and to send 30 per transfer flight. 

“It is possible,” David Echeverri López, spokesman for Cornare, the region’s environmental authority, promised in a video released Thursday. “We already have experience relocating hippos in zoos nationwide.”

Colombian officials said that the Greens Zoological Rescue and Rehabilitation Center in the western Indian state of Gujarat will cover the cost of airlifting the hippos to India, but gave no details on how the costs of the transfer to Mexico will be handled.

De los Ríos Morales said the plan includes “dignified treatment” and a home “in an appropriate place” for the hippos, “without resorting to extreme measures as some have required when being declared an invasive species, which is extermination.”

With reports from Reforma, AP and Nature

Acapulco ready for semi-finals of the ATP Mexican Open

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Alex de Minaur celebrates qualifying for the semi-finals in Acapulco
Australia's Alex de Minaur booked his place in the semi-finals with a 6-2 6-2 victory over Taro Daniel (Abierto Mexico Telcel)

The 30th edition of the Mexican Open men’s tennis tournament in Acapulco is heating up, with the semi-finals to be played Friday night and the final scheduled for Saturday.

A field of 32 players in the main draw of the ATP 500 singles event has been whittled down to just four: Tommy Paul and Taylor Fritz of the United States, Holger Rune of Denmark and Alex de Minaur of Australia, with the winner receiving 500 ranking points.

Paul, the No. 7 seed and a semi-finalist at this year’s Australian Open, will meet Fritz, the No. 3 seed, in the first semi-final at the Arena GNP Seguros in the Diamante district of Acapulco, while 19-year-old Rune, the No. 4 seed, will take on de Minaur, the No. 8 seed, in the second semi.

The winners will face off Saturday night in the final of the hardcourt tournament, a lead-up event to the 2023 Indian Wells Masters in California, often called “the fifth slam” of professional tennis.

The Mexican Open champion will receive the “silver gourd” trophy and over US $375,000 in prize money. He will also win the right to don an oversized sombrero, a tradition of the tournament first played in Mexico City in 1993.

Spanish legend Rafael Nadal won last year’s event but did not to return to Acapulco to defend his title this year.

Rodrigo Pacheco, Mexican tennis player
Mexican Rodrigo Pacheco was eliminated in a match with Australian Alex de Minaur. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal / Cuartoscuro.com

Semi-finals in the doubles event will also be played Friday, ahead of Saturday’s final.

Seventeen-year-old Yucatán native Rodrigo Pacheco Méndez was Mexico’s sole representative in the main singles draw but failed to pass the first round. The wildcard entrant, ranked outside the top 1,000 players in the world, was defeated 6-1, 6-2 by de Minaur.

Three Mexicans contested the main draw of the doubles event – two as a team and one with a French partner – but they too failed to progress to the second round.

The Mexican Open isn’t the only professional tennis tournament taking place in Mexico this week – The Monterrey Open, a women’s tournament branded this year as Abierto GNP Seguros, is underway at Club Sonoma in the Nuevo León capital. The final of the WTA 250 event will be played Sunday after semi-finals on Saturday and quarters on Friday.

No. 1 seed Caroline García of France remains in the hunt for the title. Fernanda Contreras Gómez, a 25-year-old San Luis Potosí native, lost in the first round.

The Monterrey tournament follows the Mérida Open in the Yucatán capital last week, won by Camila Giorgi of Italy.

Mexico News Daily 

Pemex defies promises by continuing gas flaring at Ixachi field

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A refinery in Veracruz lets off a gas flare
The extensive Dos Bocas refinery lets off a natural gas flare during June 2022 (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

State oil company Pemex has not only continued, but increased gas flaring at the Ixachi field in Veracruz, despite promising to stop the environmentally harmful practice in November 2022.

Flaring at the Papan and Perdiz processing plants increased from 1 billion cubic feet at the time of Pemex’s pledge, to 1.3 billion cubic feet in January, according to satellite data analyzed by Reuters.

Flaring – which involves burning off gas from oil production instead of processing it – emits harmful greenhouse gases and wastes a potentially lucrative natural resource.

When Reuters visited the site in mid-February, they found four huge flares burning. Five local residents said the flares were lit almost constantly, and satellite images indicated the flares were still active last week.

Neither Pemex nor government energy authorities agreed to Reuters’ requests for comment.

Pemex has come under sustained pressure from Mexico’s National Hydrocarbons Commission, environmentalists and the United States government to stop this practice. The company has promised several times to bring down flaring rates, acknowledging that its poor environmental record is making it harder to access financing.

On Nov. 18, Pemex CEO Octavio Romero released a video pledging to start processing 300 million cubic feet of gas per day from Ixachi and to stop flaring at the site by Jan. 15.

However, multiple sources at Pemex and Mexico’s energy authorities told Reuters this promise was unrealistic. Pemex is the world’s most indebted major oil producer and lacks the capacity to develop the infrastructure to process such huge quantities of gas.

Senior company sources told Reuters that Pemex would rather pay fines than deal with the gas flaring problem, as it instead prefers to direct its resources towards producing condensate – a form of light crude oil.

The company is currently struggling to increase oil production to 2 million barrels a day – a 12% increase from current levels – a key pledge in President López Obrador’s nationalistic energy policy.

In December, Pemex released an updated business plan for 2023-2027, which again promised to reduce emissions but also set higher targets for  increasing oil and gas production.

Besides exacerbating its already poor environmental record, Pemex’s battle to reach official targets may be putting safety at risk. Last week, three separate fires broke out at Pemex facilities on the same day, prompting renewed scrutiny of its safety record.

With reports from Reuters

Cuetzalan, a pueblo mágico off the beaten path

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Cuetzalan, Puebla, Mexico
Cuetzalan, one of our favorite Hidden Mexico picks, was founded in the 1500s by missionaries. With its cobblestone streets, old churches and residents who still speak the Indigenous languages of their ancestors, it can feel like stepping back in time. (Photo: Government of Mexico)

Cuetzalan, a pueblo mágico about a four-hour drive from Puebla city, is one of those places that has something for just about everyone. The pueblo has winding cobblestone streets, a Sunday market, beautiful waterfalls, pre-Hispanic ruins and an abundance of excellent coffee. 

For the more adventurous, there are also numerous caves to explore.

Cuetzalan, Puebla, Mexico
The Parroquia de San Francisco parish church watches over Cuetzalan’s downtown zócalo. (Joseph Sorrentino)

Cuetzalan is a Náhuatl name that has been translated a few different ways, but the most common is “Abundant Place of Quetzals.” The pueblo was founded by Franciscan friars in 1547, but the area surrounding it was settled over 1,000 years earlier. 

It’s a small town, with a population of around 6,000, the majority of whom are Indigenous and speak Náhuatl or Totonac. Men will often be seen in traditional white shirts and pants while women wear white skirts and tops embroidered with colorful designs. 

A major draw is its pre-Hispanic site, the ancient city of Yohualichan, a Náhuatl name meaning “House of the Night.” It’s about a 20-minute drive from Cuetzalan’s center. 

The pyramids here surround a central ceremonial platform, and there is also court for pelota, the ancient ballgame played by many pre-Hispanic peoples throughout Mesoamerica. 

Yohualichan’s construction is believed to have been started by the Totonacans around A.D. 200. The civilization reached its peak around A.D. 600 before declining somewhere around A.D. 800–900.

The excavated pyramids, with their rows of niches, are identical in design to Tajín, a larger site in Veracruz also built by the Totanacans. 

I was taken to the ruins by my guide, Polo Hernández. I asked him how the site was rediscovered. He told me it was found when residents, upon hearing cries and moans, went to investigate. 

I’m not sure if they continue to hear such sounds but I didn’t hear any during my visit. Maybe you will. The site is open Tuesday–Saturday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. There’s a 65-peso entrance fee. 

ancient site of Yohualichan, near Cuetzalan, Puebla, Mexico
The ruins at the ancient city of Yohualichan are just outside Cuezatlan and worth a visit. The well-preserved pre-Hispanic site is believed to have been active between A.D. 200–900. (Joseph Sorrentino)

Overlooking Cuetzalan’s center is the Parroquia de San Francisco, a Renaissance-style 16th-century church that boasts the tallest tower in the state of Puebla. In front of the church, locals set up stalls where they sell a variety of handicrafts and other goods.

The steps ringing the center are often lined with people selling their produce. In my experience, most of the people are older and speak little or no Spanish.

A short distance away from the center is another church, the Santuario de Guadalupe, also known as the Church of the Jarritos. It gets its nickname from the small terracotta jugs (jarritos) that decorate its spire. In front of the church is a large cemetery.

Cuetzalan is often foggy, enveloping the graves in a mist that give them a sense of mystery. Or maybe it’s foreboding. 

The pueblo’s population swells on Sundays when there’s a tianguis, a weekly market. People come in from nearby towns and set up stalls where they’ll sell produce, foods, handicrafts and other items.

The Calmahuistic Ethnographic Museum is small but worth a visit. It’s not far from Cuetzalan’s center, and it has rooms filled with pre-Hispanic figures and pottery, traditional costumes and instruments. 

Another feature of Cuetzalan is that its surrounded area is dotted with waterfalls, the most popular of which is La Cascada de las Brisas, about a 20-minute drive away from town. I walked with Hernández to a series of smaller waterfalls. The trail we took to and from the waterfalls was made from stones that, he said, had been laid over 700 years ago by Totonacans. 

Traditional indigenous Flyers of Cuetzalan in Cuetzalan, Puebla, Mexico

Hernández is a volador, a member of a group that performs a traditional ceremony associated with fertility rites, and I got a chance to observe his group at work.

During the ceremony, five voladores climb a 30-meter pole. One member, the caporal (chief), dances on a small stand atop the pole while playing a flute and tapping on a small drum. 

At the end of the dance, the other four members, who all this time have been sitting on a platform surrounding the stand, tip back and fall to the earth, saved from serious injury or death only by a rope tied around the upper part of one leg that ensures they land safely. 

I asked Hernández if they learn to perform this ritual by first climbing up shorter poles. 

“No,” he said matter-of-factly. “We just climb up the tall pole.”

I mentioned at the beginning that Cuetzalan has a multitude of caves, making it a popular spot for cavers. However, these caves should only be explored with an experienced guide. 

Cuetzalan, Puebla's Casacads Las Brisas waterfall
Cuetzalan’s Cascadas Las Brisas waterfall. (Photo: Government of Mexico)

Many people in Cuetzalan’s surrounding pueblos grow coffee and belong to the fair-trade cooperative Tosepan Titataniske, a Náhuatl phrase meaning “Together We Will Overcome.” Fair-trade coops pay farmers more for their coffee. People also harvest black pepper and many keep bees — a small variety that lacks stingers and produces honey with a slightly vinegary taste.

The coop also runs Tosepan Kali, an ecotourism site that offers a hotel and cabins set among a lush orchard. 

There are plenty of places to eat in Cuetzalan, offering everything from traditional Mexican fare to pizza and pasta. One of my favorite street foods there are tayoyos (also called tlacoyos). It’s a thick corn tortilla generally filled with beans and then fried. 

Finally, be aware that Cuetzalan is humid, and there are sometimes days when there’s a steady drizzle and it’s often foggy. So check the forecast, and rain gear’s a must. Its streets and sidewalks are made of stone and when wet, can be slippery, so caution must be paid when walking.

Joseph Sorrentino, a writer, photographer and author of the book San Gregorio Atlapulco: Cosmvisiones and of Stinky Island Tales: Some Stories from an Italian-American Childhood, is a regular contributor to Mexico News Daily. More examples of his photographs and links to other articles may be found at www.sorrentinophotography.com He currently lives in Chipilo, Puebla.

San Miguel de Allende has one ‘starchitect’ home…and it’s for sale

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Legorreta house for sale in San Miguel de Allende
Casa Legorreta’s double lot affords this swimming pool and expansive gardens studded with palm trees.

The city of San Miguel de Allende — a UNESCO-designated World Heritage site — is a treasure trove of 16th and 17th century Spanish Colonial architecture, adored by both the Mexican Nationals and foreigners who call this city home. But among these architectural treasures, few residents could name a single architect for their design.

However, San Miguel de Allende does host one singular “starchitect” home whose architect is known worldwide.

Casa Legorreta in San Miguel de Allende
The courtyard of Casa Legorreta best exemplifies Legorreta’s trademark design style.

Casa Legorreta, named for the late iconic Mexican modernist master Ricardo Legorreta—the first Latin architect to ever receive the AIA’s top-level award, the Gold Medal—was only completed in 2005 in the historic part of Centro on Calle Aldama, named in 2022 by Architectural Digest as the 11th prettiest street in the world.

Though Mexico City-based Legorreta designed dozens of homes in Mexico City, Valle de Bravo and Monterrey, somehow San Miguel did not make his radar until 2002 when fans of his style hired him to design their home.

The homeowners, a quiet British couple who prefer to avoid the spotlight, kept their design masterpiece a bit of a secret until recently, when they hired Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices to market the home for sale.

That agency subsequently was able to garner publicity for the home to date in the Wall St. Journal, Mansion Global, and Dirt, visually opening the home to the public and giving regional exposure to a previously well-kept secret.

Casa Legorreta San Miguel de Allende
Dual dining rooms adjoin—indoor and outdoor—each with a wood-burning fireplace, adorned with plates bearing a Legorreta design.

In contrast, Legorreta’s design for Hollywood producer Joel Silver, on the market for US $52M according to the Wall St. Journal, has enjoyed wide publicity since construction. Even Legorreta’s 1985 design for late actor Ricardo Montalbán in Hollywood garnered substantial publicity in 2012 when it sold for US $38M. 

True architectural aficionados like Silver—who also owns homes by Frank Lloyd Wright—realize that these architectural masterpieces are rare jewels that seldom come to market.

Casa Legorreta boasts the expected design imprint and indigenous craftsmanship familiar to Legorreta’s style, all delicately balanced between austerity and generosity: striated colonnade walls carved from solid and void, casting striking shadow-and-light patterns; water stairs creating gentle waterscaping white sound throughout the home; the use of wall as sculpture; warm textures and colors with natural materials like terracotta, wood and split-face stone; and the counterbalance of concrete spheres around the grounds.

Casa Legorreta’s courtyard and gardens clearly reflect the Latin American tendency to safeguard private space—all outdoor spaces are completely private from neighboring residences.

Casa Legorreta San Miguel de Allende
Massive sliding doors open the living room to the rear veranda, promoting the indoor-outdoor lifestyle so popular in San Miguel de Allende.

While attributed primarily to Ricardo, the senior Legorreta was in fact working with his son Victor by that time and the two worked together on many projects before the senior Legorreta passed away in 2011.

“The San Miguel residence was truly a collaboration between my father and myself,” says Victor Legorreta, who maintains a warm relationship with the owners to this day. In fact, Victor oversaw the recent renovation of a stairwell railing to ensure it kept the Legorreta design theme consistent.

Victor sees a lot more of San Miguel these days as the lead designer for the city’s two Marriott projects, the soon-to-open Clevia and the in-progress La Pilarica mixed-use project.

While San Miguel de Allende has enjoyed many accolades that continue to roll in—the city was once again recently named #1 Small City in the Worlds for the 5th time by Condé Nast Traveler—it is now also known as home to the only “starchitect” listing in the Bajío region of Mexico.

Greg Gunter, realtor Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices
Listing agent and Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices Broker Greg Gunter shows the Parroquia view from the roof terrace of Casa Legorreta.

Design fans can see photos and virtual tours of the home on the listing site.

Officials say Sea of Cortéz Aquarium in Mazatlán close to opening

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Planned Sea of Cortez Aquarium in Mazatlan, Mexico
The state-of-the-art museum in Mazatlán will feature a giant display tank with a window that's 13 meters tall by 7 meters wide. ( Sea of Cortéz Aquarium)

The largest aquarium in Mexico “will be inaugurated soon,” the head of the Ministry of Tourism (Sectur) said at a press conference this week about Mazatlán’s long-delayed Sea of Córtez Aquarium opening.

The yet-to-be-opened aquarium will be located in the western part of Mazatlán in Parque Central. Officials say they are expecting 900,000 visitors in its first year. 

At the media event, no opening date was announced, and Miguel Torruco Márquez talked mostly about the wonders of the new aquarium and its surroundings, the first public-private partnership project in Mexico’s tourism sector.

But just the fact that the ministry hosted the news media in Mexico City and issued a lengthy press release would seem to indicate an opening day in the not-too-distant future.

Various media speculations included “in the coming weeks” in the newspaper Debate and “at the end of April” from the TV Azteca station ADN 40. 

In February, frustrated Mazatlán Mayor Edgar Augusto González Zatarain stated that the 50,000-square-meter aquarium “must” open in two weeks (which would be Monday, March 6), but the only thing clear about the museum’s opening date is that it isn’t clear.

Mexico;s Tourism Minister Miguel Torruco
Federal Tourism Minister Miguel Torruco could give no opening date for the Mazatlán’s Sea of Cortez Aquarium at a press event this week, so he stuck to highlighting its wonders. (Photo: Government of Mexico)

Reportedly costing 1.8 billion pesos (US $99.3 million), the facility was originally supposed to open in April 2021. Several delays have occurred since then, although the transfer of some animals (such as penguins and sea lions) from the old Mazatlán aquarium to the new one reportedly has begun. 

The project is the joint work of three levels of government and the private sector, with reportedly 60% of the funding coming from the Kingu Mexicana company, owned by Sinaloa businessman Ernesto Coppel Kelly, founder and president of Pueblo Bonito Golf & Spa Resorts (and a new judge on “Shark Tank México”).

Other funds are coming from the national infrastructure fund (Fonadin), the national fund for tourism (Fonatur), the National Bank of Foreign Trade (Bancomext), the National Works and Public Services Bank (Banobras) and BanCoppel, according to media reports.

The facility’s floor plan is the largest in Latin America, and the aquarium will be “a catapult for tourism,” in Sinaloa, according to enthusiastic officials and investors.

Sinaloa Tourism Minister Estrella Palacios Domínguez said that the new aquarium will mark a “before and after” in the history of Mazatlán. Coppel Kelly said its opening will trigger the construction of hotel rooms and restaurants.

Designed by Mexican architect Tatiana Bilbao, whose works often merge geometry with nature, the aquarium will house some 260 marine species and have a 2.8 million-liter main exhibition tank, with a window that is 13 meters tall by 7 meters wide. 

Mexican businessman Ernesto Coppel Kelly
Ernesto Coppel Kelly, a major investor in the aquarium, is one of many believers who feel the new state-of-the-art aquarium will have a profound positive impact on Mazatlan as a tourist destination. (Photo: Germán Romero/Cuartoscuro)

Overall, its exhibition tanks will hold some 4.7 million liters of water, plus there will be 200 million liters in its large lake.

Márquez said there will be 36 species of mammals, 31 cetaceans (including gray, humpback and blue whales), five of the seven global species of sea turtles, as well as sharks, jellyfish and manta rays.

“This abundant marine fauna and the crystal-clear waters that bathe the coasts of the states of Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sonora and Sinaloa led Jacques Cousteau to call the Sea of Cortéz ‘the aquarium of the world,’” Márquez said.

In addition, the facility will include a botanical garden and interactive and educational exhibits that promote the region’s biodiversity and commitment to conservation. There will be 19 exhibition rooms, four inner courtyards and a 240-person auditorium. The modern buildings have striking architecture, plus terraces and roofs covered with vegetation.

When the aquarium does open, only the first 26,000 square meters of the project will be accessible. The second stage of 24,000 square meters will be finished in the fall of 2024, officials said. 

Some of the aquarium’s revenue will go toward a research center to preserve biodiversity in the Sea of ​​Cortéz.

With reports from ADN40, Debate and Gob.mx

U.S. sanctions 8 Mexican companies for timeshare fraud schemes

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Puerto Vallarta
The majority of victims of the fraudulent companies, were owners of timeshare properties in Puerto Vallarta, the U.S. Treasury Department said. (Photo: Juliana Arjes/Unsplash)

The United States government has sanctioned eight Mexican companies it says are involved in a cartel-backed fraud scheme that has targeted U.S. owners of timeshare properties in Mexico, particularly in the Puerto Vallarta area.

The U.S. Department of the Treasury said in a statement Thursday that its Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) had sanctioned companies linked to timeshare fraud on behalf of the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG).

“Today’s action is the result of a collaboration between the United States and the Government of Mexico,” it said, noting that U.S. assets of the designated companies were blocked and that any assets of the companies in the possession of U.S residents must be reported to the OFAC.

According to a chart published by Treasury, three of the companies are based in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco; two are based in the nearby resort town of Bucerías, Nayarit; and three are located in Guadalajara.

They are Servicios Administrativos Fordtwoo, Integración Badeva, JM Providers Office, Promotora Vallarta Uno, Recservi, Corporativo Title I, Corporativo TS Business Inc and TS Business Corporativo.

The Treasury Department said that the eight companies claim to be financial services or real estate companies, but are linked directly or indirectly to CJNG’s timeshare fraud activities.

US Treasury Department chart of Mexican timeshare fraud network
In addition to the eight companies listed on this chart, the U.S. government also designated three men operating in Puerto Vallarta that it said are violent CJNG actors. (Photo: U.S. Department of the Treasury)

“As CJNG has consolidated territory over the past decade, it has added other crimes to its core activity of drug trafficking,” OFAC Director Andrea M. Gacki said Thursday.

“In tourist destinations such as Puerto Vallarta, CJNG has become heavily engaged in timeshare fraud, which often targets U.S. citizens,” she said.

“This crime, which can defraud victims of their life savings, results in another significant revenue stream for the cartel and strengthens its overall criminal enterprise. Today’s action exposes this CJNG scheme and also serves as a warning to potential victims, many of whom are elderly.”

The Treasury Department acknowledged that there are different types of timeshare fraud, but outlined characteristics that are common of many schemes.

It said that timeshare owners receive unsolicited purchase offers through-emails or calls from third parties claiming to have ready buyers.

“Owners tiring of their timeshares and/or hoping for profits are susceptible,” Treasury said.

If purchase offers are accepted, “requests are made to timeshare owners for payments of advance fees and taxes supposedly to facilitate and/or expedite the sale with assurances of reimbursement upon completion,” the department said.

“Once multiple payments are made, timeshare owners eventually realize that the offers were fictitious, that there are no buyers and that their money is gone.”

Treasury added that “a portion of the money defrauded from timeshare owners is received by CJNG, directly or indirectly.”

It didn’t say how many timeshare owners had been victims of fraud schemes that benefited CJNG or how much money they lost.

It noted that the FBI and the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission in 2020 issued a joint warning to consumers concerning fraudsters targeting owners of timeshares in Mexico.

Headed by Nemesio “El Mencho” Oseguera Cervantes, the CJNG is generally considered Mexico’s most powerful criminal organization. It operates in most of Mexico’s 31 states as well as Mexico City, and smuggles large quantities of narcotics including fentanyl and cocaine into the United States.

Treasury said that Puerto Vallarta is a “strategic stronghold” for the cartel that it uses for drug trafficking, money laundering and timeshare fraud.

“OFAC has taken multiple actions against CJNG actors in Puerto Vallarta, including those who have ties to nightclubs, bars, and restaurants,” it said.

“Additionally, OFAC has designated senior CJNG members Carlos Andres Rivera Varela (a.k.a. “La Firma”), Francisco Javier Gudino Haro (a.k.a. “La Gallina”), and Julio Cesar Montero Pinzon (a.k.a. “El Tarjetas”), who are part of a CJNG enforcement group based in Puerto Vallarta that orchestrates assassinations of rivals and politicians using high-powered weaponry.”

Mexico News Daily 

KIO Networks to build third data center in Querétaro

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KIO Networks in Queretaro, Mexico
The Mexican company KIO Networks already has two data centers in Querétaro. It recently announced it will build a third just outside the capital. It will be the company's 11th data center throughout Mexico. (Photo: KIO Networks)

KIO Networks, a technology and data storage company founded in 2002 with 100% Mexican capital, has announced a facilities expansion in Querétaro that company officials predict will create 250 direct jobs and 1,500 indirect ones. 

KIO said it is investing US $400 million to buy 25,000 square meters (6.2 acres) of land and build a third data center in an industrial park in the municipality of El Marqués, which is adjacent to the capital of Querétaro City.

“At KIO, we are very proud to continue with our expansion process,” Santiago Suinaga, executive director of KIO Data Centers, said in a press release last week. “Querétaro is a state that will continue to grow as a technological hub and receive [even more] investment in this type of infrastructure. In fact, we are pioneers in the deployment of data centers in the region.”

The new center, scheduled to be built in 2024, will be KIO’s third in the El Marqués Industrial Park. The three centers will interconnect and create a unified ecosystem in a mega-data campus that houses telecommunications providers, cloud hyperscalers and IT service providers.

Currently, Querétaro has 15 data center projects in development, representing what state officials say are investments of US $3 billion.

KIO’s first data center in the area, called QRO1, began operations in 2007 and expanded last year into a fifth hall, for a total space of 4,100 square meters. Construction next door on a second data center, QR02, which will double KIO’s capacity on the campus, is scheduled to begin in coming weeks.

Rendering of data center to be built in El Marques, Queretaro, by KIO Networks.
The new data center will be built in 2024 just outside Querétaro city, in an industrial park in the municipality of El Marqués. (Illustration: KIO)

According to its website, KIO provides “mission critical information technology infrastructure services” and operates 40 “cutting-edge” data centers with “the highest security, availability and density in the region to administer and monitor public, private and hybrid cloud services, cybersecurity, business applications, automation and artificial intelligence.”

Founded 21 years ago, KIO operates eight core data centers in Mexico as well as facilities in Spain, Panama, Dominican Republic, and Guatemala. Purchased by Miami-based I Squared Capital in 2021, KIO used to have two facilities in the United States before selling them six  years ago to the U.S. communications company Zayo, which was then acquired by DataBank. 

“Founded in 2002 with 100% Mexican capital, we are one of the most innovative information technology companies in Latin America,” according to a KIO blurb on iMasons.org.

With reports from El Economista, Data Center Dynamics and México Industry