Primer: new to Mexico? Here’s what to know about finding water

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February 11, 2023

getting water delivered to your house in Mexico — One thing you'll almost certainly need to do in your new Mexican home is figure out a way to buy drinking water. Some companies deliver — just look out for the trucks in your neighborhood and flag one down. (Illustration: Angy Márquez)

Last week, we talked about all things related to Mexican addresses: how to write them, how to find them, and how to actually get people and packages to them (executive summary: don’t forget the colonia, and remember that there can be lots of streets with the same name in your city).

This week, it’s time for another lesson in practicality: getting water to your home.

The first thing to remember is that you’ll be needing two types of water: the kind that comes out of the faucet and the kind that you drink.

Drinking water is usually obtained from garrafones, those big five-gallon jugs common in offices. It’s not that the water that comes out of your faucets hasn’t been treated; it has. The problem with its cleanliness has more to do with the condition of the pipes that it runs through.

That said, I’ve found that the water that comes out of faucets is mostly okay: I myself use it to brush my teeth, as well as for tea and coffee, since the water gets boiled. I have never had a problem with it (and it’s been 20 years); if you accidentally swallow a bit, there really is no need to rush to the doctor. Also, if you live in a part of Mexico where they’re drilling very deep for water, your supply may have levels of minerals like fluoride or calcium that aren’t going to hurt you in the short-term but can cause problems in the long-term.

For gulping down big glasses of water, you’ll want to make sure it’s extra clean. Though there are filtration systems that may come installed in a few of the fancier homes you rent or buy (you could also have them installed if you like), most people rely on the simple garrafón.

Where do you get them? There are typically an array of options. Many of the big beverage companies keep them stocked in Oxxos and other convenience stores, as well as in supermarkets. Many smaller mom-and-pop stores (tienditas) have them as well. There are also often smaller “mom and pop” local water purifying companies, which are usually cheaper.

Garrafones are returnable (retornable); this means that when you get a new garrafón, you’ll turn in your newly emptied one. If you’re brand new and don’t already have one in the place you’re living, you’ll need to buy one or two initially; where I am, a new filled garrafón is less than 100 pesos. After that, you simply exchange your empty for a new one and are only charged for the water inside.

If you buy from a major water brand like Ciel or Bonafont, then you’ll only be able to exchange your garrafones for others of the same brand. Major brands shouldn’t be hard to find in most stores, and larger local brands (there’s one called Xallapan where I live, for example) should be available in most places too.

If you exchange your garrafones at a mom-and-pop water purification place or refill them yourself (there are self-serve places to do so in most cities), then the brand pasted on the container won’t matter. However, if you decide to start using a brand later on, then you’ll need one of that same brand.

Another thing to remember: your garrafones must be clean if you want to exchange them. If you’ve put anything besides water inside of it and it’s obvious by either the looks or the smell of it, they won’t be accepted back and you’ll need to buy a new one. Make sure, too, that when you get new garrafones, they aren’t leaking anywhere, as that can also be grounds for refusal when you try to exchange it (and can mean a big mess).

To get these bottles to your house, you’ve got a couple of different options: you can either go to the store physically to exchange them or you can have them delivered.

If you’ve just moved to a new place, stick your head out the door when you hear honking outside or someone yelling something — could be some kind of service like water delivery! If you’re in an established neighborhood, there will probably already be some delivery truck or other that’s coming regularly with water (on my street I hear “Agua Cieeeeeeel!” a couple times a week, which is when I go outside with my empty garrafón and 45 pesos).

Since they’re fairly heavy and awkwardly-shaped when filled with water, I prefer to get them delivered. Once in the house, I typically turn mine over into a receptacle for water dispensing (give the bottles a quick wipe-down first — they get dusty easily). There are also other solutions for dispensing your water — the most common are little removable water pumps that simply fit on the top, or little holders for them that can make them easier to tip upside down for serving.

OK, so what about the water that comes out the faucet?

As in other countries, you’ll need to pay your home’s water bill. Water is typically delivered by pumping it through pipes in the ground, the pressure of which sends it up to what’s called a tinaco, a large container for water that very likely sits on top of your house or building. When you turn on the water faucet, it opens the valve, and gravity causes the water to come down through it.

I give you all these details so that you might understand why you may not have water sometimes — and what you can do about it.

As you probably know, there are certain areas of Mexico where water is scarce. Because of this, some cities, including mine, have tandeos de agua when supplies get low, which means that there are certain days when the city water system does not deliver water to homes (in my own city, different colonias basically take turns going without when needed).

Unless you’re using a ton of water that day, you might not even notice; but if you’ve recently emptied your tinaco or are planning to, say, do a bunch of loads of laundry or fill a big kiddie pool, it might be a problem. But otherwise, most tinacos are big enough for everyone to get their showers in, toilets flushed and dishes done for a couple of days without emptying them.

If your tinaco does turn up empty, some homes have an additional reservoir underground called a cisterna (cistern); if you do, then there should be a bomba — an electrical water pump — that you can turn on (usually a switch inside or outside your home) to pump some of that water up to the tinaco (usually just leaving it on for 20 minutes should do it).

Bear in mind also that some houses don’t have a tinaco and rely on a cisterna alone. Your pump will send the water in the cisterna directly through your house pipes instead of up to the tinaco.

Happy drinking, showering and washing, everyone!

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com

Love is in the air: make a sweet treat to show you care

By

Janet Blaser

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February 11, 2023

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molten chocolate cake — You don’t need to go to a fancy restaurant to enjoy these Molten Chocolate Cakes — it’s easy to make them yourself.

Those who’ve been in Mexico on Valentine’s Day know that it’s celebrated in high style, with giant stuffed teddy bears, extravagant flower arrangements, balloons and boxes of chocolates and candies.

It surprised me at first; now it’s charming, rather sweet and often amusing. Día de San Valentín is a “festivity” holiday, an official designation that includes other special days like Mother’s and Father’s Day, Teacher’s Day and Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe.

Coconutes shortbread cookies — Rich shortbread paired with toasted coconut equals a decadent melt-in-the-mouth cookie.

The origin of Valentine’s Day harkens to the third century, when a renegade Italian bishop officiated at weddings for couples who were not permitted to marry for various reasons: the parents didn’t approve of the match; one member of the couple was a slave; or the man was a soldier. Valentine performed the weddings and gave the couple flowers. Not surprisingly, the emperor disapproved of this, and on Feb. 14, A.D. 269, Valentine was beheaded.

His love of love, however, lives on in the holiday, and St. Valentine is the patron saint of lovers everywhere.

The commercialization of Valentine’s Day — and the introduction of chocolate as representative of true love — came centuries later. In the late 1300s, Chaucer wrote a poem heralding “seynt Voantynes day” as the time when “every bird cometh to choose his mate.” And in Europe, especially Britain, people were rapidly becoming addicted to cacao, a new imported delicacy, and discovering so many things that could be done with it.

The first big chocolate company to make “eating chocolates” was the British firm Cadbury, who in 1861 paired them in heart-shaped boxes for the newfangled Valentine’s Day, to instant success. That was in 1861.

Meanwhile, over in America, chocolate candies were off to a slow start, but then in 1907, Hershey’s hit the jackpot with its production of tear-drop shaped chocolate “kisses” – the perfect symbol of love for a Valentine’s Day gift. (The name came not from the shape but from the ”smooching” noise the machines made as the kisses were extruded.)

As chocolate became more affordable, other companies sprouted up, including Russell Stover Candies. What started in Clara Stover’s Denver kitchen in 1923 eventually became the number-one manufacturer of boxed chocolates — particularly for Valentine’s Day — in the U.S.

Chocolate Dipped Strawberries

1qt. strawberries, with green leaves if possible
1-1/3 to 1½ cups milk chocolate, semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips

Wash and dry berries; have at room temperature. Place parchment paper, foil or waxed paper on baking sheet(s) big enough to hold berries in single layer.

Heat chocolate in microwave for about 1 minute until soft and shiny. Using a spoon, stir till melted and smooth. Grasp a strawberry by its stem; swirl in melted chocolate, coating all sides. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining berries.

Refrigerate dipped berries for 20 minutes to set chocolate. Remove from refrigerator; let harden completely at room temperature. Serve the same day, if possible.

Molten Chocolate Cake

½ cup unsalted butter, plus more for buttering molds
4 oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
4 eggs
¼ cup sugar
2 tsp. flour, plus more for dusting molds
For serving: ice cream or whipped cream

Put butter in medium bowl. Melt in the microwave, then add chocolate and stir until melted. In another bowl, crack 2 eggs and add 2 more yolks (discard the extra whites). Add sugar; beat or whisk until light and thick, about 1 minute. Mix egg mixture and 2 tsp. flour to melted chocolate.

Butter and flour four (4 oz.) molds or ramekins. Make sure not to miss any spots or cakes will stick. Tap out excess flour. Divide batter among molds. (At this point you can refrigerate them up to 3 hours; just bring them back to room temperature before baking.)

When ready to bake, heat oven to 450 F (230 C). Put molds on rimmed baking sheet; bake until cakes puff up a bit, tops are barely set and they jiggle slightly when shaken, 7–9 minutes (better underbaked than overbaked). Let sit for 1 minute.

To unmold, put a dessert plate on top of each ramekin and (with a potholder to protect your hand) carefully invert. Let sit for 10 seconds, then lift ramekin. Serve immediately.

Toasted Coconut Shortbread

1 cup + 2 Tbsp. cold salted butter (2¼ sticks), cut into ½-inch pieces
½ cup granulated sugar + more for dipping outside of cookies
¼ cup light brown sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1¾ cups flour
½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, plus more for sanding
¾ tsp. cinnamon
1 egg (beaten) for egg wash

In medium bowl with electric mixer, beat butter, both sugars and vanilla on medium-high until super light and fluffy, 3–5 minutes. Slowly add flour, then ½ cup coconut. Beat just to blend.

Divide dough in half; place each half on large piece of plastic wrap. Sprinkle each half with cinnamon. Roll to form a log. Each half should form a log about 1½-2 inches in diameter. Chill until firm, at least 1½ hours.

Heat oven to 350 F (177 C). Line baking sheet with parchment. Brush outside of logs with egg wash; roll in coconut. Slice each log into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Dip one side of each round into sanding sugar. Arrange on baking sheet, sugar-side up, about 1-inch apart. Bake until edges just begin to brown, 10–12 minutes. Cool slightly before eating them all.

Tip: Cookie dough can be made 1 week ahead. Tightly wrap in plastic and chill or freeze up to 1 month.

No-bake peanut butter heart treats — These no-bake chocolate-and-peanut butter treats taste just like — you guessed it — Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups.

No-Bake Peanut Butter Chocolates

1½ cups graham cracker crumbs
1 cup unsalted butter, melted
2½ cups confectioners’ sugar
1 cup peanut butter, crunchy or smooth
1 cup chocolate chips

In large bowl, thoroughly mix graham cracker crumbs, butter, confectioners’ sugar and peanut butter. Spread mixture in lightly greased 9×13-inch pan. Chill in refrigerator 10 minutes.

While peanut butter layer is chilling, melt chocolate chips in a microwave or a double boiler on the stove. Remove chilled peanut butter layer from refrigerator; spread melted chocolate over evenly over top. Chill another 10 minutes to set before cutting into squares or shapes with a cookie cutter but leaving cut cookies in the pan. Return to refrigerator to chill for at least 1 hour before removing from pan.

Mexican fintech company will offer digital mortgages to foreigners

By

MND Staff

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February 10, 2023

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condo in playa del carmen, mexico — A condo in Playa del Carmen could be easier for foreigners to buy thanks to a fintech mortgage company that says it's willing to consider credit history from abroad. (/Arkadj Schell/Shutterstock)

Foreigners with official permanent or temporary residence in México who are registered with the tax authority (SAT) will now be able to get a mortgage loan online with the Mexican fintech Yave, a company that grants digital mortgage loans.

According to Yave’s cofounder Bernardo Silva, the opportunity for his company in this area is wide.

Bernardo Silva of Mexico's Yave digital mortgage company — Bernardo Silva is the founder and CEO of the Mexican fintech real estate company Yave.

“The pandemic triggered digital nomads to start looking for other housing opportunities,” Silva said in a recent interview on the Mexican podcast Centro Urbano Home. “We decided to go for this niche.”

Yave will be the first property technology company to offer a 100% digital mortgage in Mexico. It recently raised capital that will be allocated to improve the platform’s processes and customer service, according to Silva.

Interior Ministry figures list 543,000 foreign residents in Mexico in 2022. The number of digital nomads is not recorded in government figures, but a resource for digital nomads, Nomad List, said in a 2022 report that Playa del Carmen was a top destinations among its 10,000 subscribers, and Mexico City was No. 5 on its lists of the fastest-growing remote work hubs in the last five years.

Mexican government data published in November showed a 48% increase in residency visas issued to U.S. citizens in 2022 compared to 2019, and those to Canadians increased by 137%.

However, there can be some obstacles for foreigners who wish to buy a home here. One has been the need to purchase property through a real estate trust (fideicomiso), a contract that allows foreigners to buy within Mexico’s restricted zones, which includes any land within 50 kilometers of the coast and 100 kilometers of any national border. With a fideicomiso, a Mexican bank acquires real estate property on behalf of the foreign buyer.

But another frequent concern, one Yave wants to address, is foreigners’ lack of credit in Mexico, which generally means that they must buy a house outright with no access to a mortgage here.

Silva said that this leads to operational and financial challenges. But now, “after hard work, we’ve managed to make financing possible to offer this type of credit,” he said.

Silva said his company is prepared to offer mortgage loans to foreigners since it is familiar with the types of credit bureaus and proof of income used in the United States, for example. The company has offered mortgages to foreigners before, he said, but only to people working in Mexico.

Jorge Manuel Yarza, a partner at the professional services company Deloitte, says that the entire real estate industry is facing the challenge of finding homes within reach for 42 million families in Mexico predicted by 2030.

“Foreigners who already reside in Mexico and have a job in the country are already served by banks and by us,” Silva said.

Yave is not the only company serving foreigners. Mexlend, a mortgage and loan broker in Mexico, also offers US-dollar loans to help U.S. and Canadian citizens acquire property in the country. They also work with all Mexican banks for peso mortgage alternatives. Mexican bank Intercam offers its so-called “Dream Loan” for U.S. and Canadian citizens, and other Mexican banks do offer some financing.

Yave is also working on the launch of a new digital product in partnership with Infonavit, Mexico’s public housing agency that gives out loans to employees registered with the SAT to help them buy a house.

Via Infonavit, foreigners with a long enough legal work history in Mexico at jobs offering prestaciones de ley — i.e. mandated worker benefits — can accrue enough money contributed through taxes and employer contributions to be used toward a mortgage.

In an article for Real Estate and Lifestyle magazine, Jorge Manuel Yarza, partner at professional service firm Deloitte, wrote that there will be 42 million families in Mexico by 2030, an increase of 12 million more than in 2015.

“From a structural point of view — which does not depend on the government or mortgage companies — more than 10 million houses will be required in the next 12 years,” he said.

The upcoming challenge in the Mexican market, wrote Yarza, will be how to make mortgage loans accessible to families and improve the quality of available and affordable housing.

With reports from Expansión, Centro Urbano and Real Estate Market

San Miguel Writers’ Conference 2023 opens with bestseller Janelle Brown

By

MND Staff

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February 10, 2023

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A view of San Miguel de Allende at sunset. — Founded in 2006, the San Miguel Writers' Conference brings literary talent from around the world. Depositphotos

Novelist Janelle Brown, author of “I’ll Be You,” “Pretty Things,” and other bestselling novels, will be the first keynote speaker at the annual San Miguel Writers’ Conference and Literary Festival, which starts Feb. 13.

San Miguel de Allende, a world-class destination voted as the best small city in the world by Condé Nast readers, has been the home of the conference since 2006.

It all started when Susan Page, former director of women’s programs at the University of California, Berkeley, moved to San Miguel in 2004 and noticed that despite the great number of writers settled in the city, there was no venue for author readings and gatherings. She decided to give them visibility, and that same year, the San Miguel Literary Sala was born.

To date, the Literary Sala still hosts year-round events, featuring both out-of-town and local authors, poets and speakers.

About a year later, member Jody Feagan decided that there should be a writers’ conference in San Miguel. In 2013, they integrated a Spanish-speaking division, and today the event is bilingual and tri-cultural. It annually attracts repeat attendees. One reviewer quoted on the conference’s site called the event “one of a handful of must-attend writers’ conferences in the literary world.”

Other keynote speakers this year include Suzette Mayr, winner of Canada’s Giller Prize for “The Sleeping Car Porter,” Linda Spalding, author of “The Who and Where of Re-creation” and Jean Kwok, author of the bestselling novel “Girl in Translation,” whose immigrant life story was the subject of a television documentary. Mexican author Brenda Lozano (“Witches”) will also be presenting.

Mexican author Brenda Lozano (Brenda Lozano Twitter)

The event will be held at the Real de Minas Hotel from Feb. 13–17 and will also include workshops, book signings, master classes and other literary events.

The conference is also holding a separate “post-conference” event with author Margaret Atwood (“The Handmaid’s Tale”) on Feb. 21 at the La Casona meeting center. The intimate event will be an onstage conversation between Atwood and her friend and fellow Canadian author, Merilyn Simonds (“The Convict Lover”).

Today, the San Miguel Writers’ Conference & Literary Festival attracts distinguished authors, established and emerging writers, industry experts reaching professionals and avid readers from Mexico, the United States and Canada.

Tickets can be bought here. For those who cannot attend in person, a reduced number of online tickets are also available.

Mexico News Daily

The Mexican town that found its craft from an unexpected source

By

John Pint

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February 10, 2023

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Handmade bracelets made from horse mane hair — Artisans in the town of Cajititlán, Jalisco, have become known for making beautifully detailed items from horsehair that would otherwise be discarded by farmers. They make everything from bracelets to tassels and more.

Little Lake Cajititlán lies 25 kilometers south of Guadalajara. Sprinkled along its shore are small communities of very talented artisans. After visiting several of them, I came to the largest town around the lake, also named Cajititlán.

I knew of no dominant craft there and suspected that its “specialty” must be its big tianguis (market), where the crafts of all the other communities were sold every week.

“Doesn’t Cajititlán produce a handicraft all its own?” I asked a local man.

Downtown Cajitlan, Jalisco, Mexico — A mural in Cajititlán shows the town’s malecón (esplanade).

“No, no,” he said… “except for Consuelo. She makes nice things out of crin and cerda.”

Crin, I learned, refers to a horse’s mane, while cerda is the beautiful long hair of its tail. Naturally, I was curious to see what an artistic person could make out of these.

It was 2012, and my wife and I found Consuelo Cervantes working on her craft at home. Upon discovering how curious we were about what she was doing, she began to show us all kinds of beautiful and ingenious handcrafts she’d made: from the mane, she made key fobs and tassels, and from the tail, elegant belts that any charro would be proud to show off.

“We normally go to rodeos and similar events, where we sell our products to people who love horses,” Consuelo explained. “So our customers don’t come to us — we go to them.”

Decorative hatband by Taller Rodriguez in Jalisco — The hatband on this fine sombrero is one of Taller Rodriguez’s creations.

It was hard to believe the beautiful belts they were selling were actually made of horsehair until Consuelo took us to a back room and showed us how easily she could weave a few long strands of a horse’s mane into tresses, which were then interwoven with others, eventually resulting in a belt or bracelet displaying beautiful patterns.

“But how did you learn to do all this?” I asked.

“You won’t believe it, but it was actually thanks to a gringo from Ajijic who came here in 1979. His name was Jim Marthai, and he had been taught to weave horsehair by indigenous people in the United States. So it was from him I learned these skills, and I, in turn, have taught others.”

Jim Marthai, I later learned, passed on years ago, but his legacy has flourished in Cajititlán.

Now, in 2023, Consuelo’s family no longer works out of a back room in their home. They receive the public at Taller Rodríguez, one of two workshop showrooms in Cajititlán regularly displaying and selling horsehair crafts.

I asked Consuelo’s son Cristián where they get their raw material.

Fabric made from horse hair in Cajitlan, Mexico — Consuelo Cervantes de Rodríguez and her son Diego with the raw materials used in their artisan workshop and the fabric it becomes.

“From ranchos,” he said, “many, many ranchos. You see, they regularly cut a horse’s mane and tail — maybe every three months — so they won’t grow too long and get caught in thorns and cacti and maleza (brush).

“They used to throw this hair away, but now they save it for us. So we buy it by the kilo, and when we get it, we wash it, we disinfect it, maybe we dye it and then, finally, we start to weave it. Washing a kilo of crin or cerda takes about two hours. Then we put it out in the sun to dry, which may take three to four hours.”

Cristián said that the family started out making simple things like bracelets and hat bands for sombreros, “but then, as time went by, we began to invent, to innovate.”

“Now, for example, we’re making beautiful, unique handbags, which we’re exporting to the U.S., Italy and Spain. We used to mainly sell our products at charreadas (rodeos), but now we are going to venues like the Feria de Libros (Book Fair), where people are fascinated because they’ve never seen something made out of horsehair.”

Cristián proudly added that his family had developed techniques for creating riding saddles out of strong, beautiful horsehair fabric.

“In fact,” he said, “there are only four horsehair saddles in the whole world, and we’re the ones who made them!”

A purse made completely with horse hair — Two-tassel purse made of horsehair.

In 2017, a saddle made by Taller Rodríguez won first prize for arts and crafts in Jalisco. In subsequent years, their saddles won more prizes, until, in 2021 in Mexico City, the family accepted the highest trophy of all for Mexican artisans: the Galardón Presidencial, the Presidential Award.

“Just the weaving of that saddle,” commented Cristián, “took four of us three full months to do. It contains between 400 and 500 meters of woven horsehair. and then on top of that, there are the straps and flaps and everything else that goes into a saddle!”

Another of Taller Rodríguez’s innovative projects was its decoration of the giant letters in town spelling its name — CAJITITLÁN. These giant letter landmarks spelling a city/town’s name is a common sight in Mexico, and a favorite landmark for visitors, who like to take photos of themselves in front of it.

“We covered each letter with woven horsehair,” Cristián’s brother Sergio told me. “It was for another competition that was only at the municipal level. They asked each town around the lake to create something typical of the local craft. …And my brother said, ‘Why don’t we cover each of those huge letters with cerda?’”

Every letter ended up being covered with around 72,000 hairs! Taller Rodríguez won the competition, but their glory was short-lived:

“Maybe you could say we were too successful,” Sergio said. Those letters were so beautiful that people stole most of them! In the end, the municipality had to replace them all with the usual painted letters — so all our work was in vain. That’s Mexico for you!”

City name made in letters covered in horsehair — The last photo of the horsehair-covered letters before several of them were spirited away by admirers.

Check out the Rodríguez family’s Facebook page for their latest creations, especially the purses, which Austrian painter and former fashion designer Ilse Hable Taylor called “stylish and lovingly detailed: truly works of art.”

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

AMLO says Mexico to receive US financing for 4 wind power farms

By

Cat Rainsford

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February 10, 2023

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Wind farm in Oaxaca — The president anticipates US funds to finance the new wind farms. (Wikimedia Commons)

President López Obrador announced Wednesday that he expects the United States to finance the construction of four wind power plants in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.

The plants are part of AMLO’s plan to build 10 industrial parks across the isthmus – the narrow section of southern Mexico between Oaxaca and Veracruz – linked by a renovated railroad project connecting the Pacific and Gulf coasts.

Railroad Isthmus of Tehuantepec — Renovation work on the rail line in 2020. (Gob MX)

“There is a commitment, if the conditions are met, that four of the 10 parks are used for the generation of electricity by wind,” AMLO said. “It is an agreement with the U.S. government to contribute to facing the problem of climate change.”

He explained that U.S. banks or the U.S. government would finance the project through interest-free loans, and that companies from both countries will take part in the construction. The finished plants would be run by Mexico’s state-owned Federal Electricity Commission (CFE).

AMLO said he expected U.S. climate envoy John Kerry to visit the area in March to launch the project, accompanied by U.S. legislators and the U.S. ambassador to Mexico, Ken Salazar.

The wind energy industry has previously accused AMLO’s government of causing stagnation in Mexico’s wind power sector through regulation that favors state-owned companies over private clean energy producers.

Mexico’s wind power capacity grew by only 2.2% in 2022, compared with 7.1% in 2021 and 24.7% on average over the last 12 years. Meanwhile, the CFE’s use of coal for electricity generation increased last year by 55%.

Marcelo Ebrard and John Kerry — Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard speaks with US climate envoy John Kerry at the COP 27 summit last November. (Marcelo Ebrard Twitter)

AMLO’s nationalistic energy policies have caused trade tensions with the U.S. and Canada, as well as casting doubts on his pledge to double the country’s renewable energy capacity by 2030.

Energy policy was a key topic at the North American Leaders Summit, held in Mexico City last month. At the summit, the leaders of Mexico, the U.S. and Canada pledged to take “rapid and coordinated measures to tackle the climate crisis” and to “accelerate the energy transition.”

These aims are already playing out in the northern border state of Sonora, where the U.S. is investing in the Sonora Clean Energy Plan. This seeks to boost solar power generation, lithium mining and electric vehicle manufacturing in Mexico’s northwest. The Puerto Peñasco solar power plant is expected to begin first phase operations in April.

During Wednesday’s press conference, AMLO continued to stoke rumors that U.S. electric carmaker Tesla is building a plant in Mexico, either in the state of Nuevo León or the state of Hidalgo. In December, the newspaper Milenio reported that Tesla would unveil its plans for a Nuevo León factory in January, but no official announcement has been made.

AMLO also stressed that the planned wind farms in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec would create jobs and development in Mexico’s poorer southern states.

“We are investing in the south and southeast, which was completely marginalized, and development is being balanced,” he said.

However, previous moves to build wind farms in the isthmus have met resistance from local residents. In particular, members of Oaxaca’s indigenous Zapotec community have opposed multinationals building wind farms on their communal lands, saying the companies failed to properly consult local people about the impact of the projects.

In November, an agrarian court in Tuxtepec, Oaxaca ruled in favor of the local Zapotec community against the company Mexican Wind Developments (Demex).

With reports from Associated Press and Milenio

Top designer’s hidden gem for sale in the heart of San Miguel de Allende

By

Sarah Bender

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February 10, 2023

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House for sale in San Miguel de Allende — This unique pied-à-terre located in the heart of San Miguel de Allende is listed for US $375,000 (CDR San Miguel)

From brand partner | CDR San Miguel | Forbes Global Properties

Welcome to Suite Tallulah, the ultimate pied-à-terre located in the heart of San Miguel de Allende, just steps away from Parque Juárez and the Jardín (main square). This cozy, tastefully furnished home is now available for sale at an unbelievable price of US $375,000 and it’s a must-see for anyone looking to own a piece of paradise in this vibrant town.

San Miguel house for sale — The welcoming, thoughtfully designed living room of Suite Tallulah (CDR San Miguel)

Who is the intriguing woman behind this stunning property? Meet Cheryl “Finn” Finnegan, a true design visionary, who revolutionized the fashion industry with the launch of her iconic San Miguel-based luxury jewelry brand Virgins, Saints & Angels (VSA) back in 1999.

With a fresh and imaginative approach, she fused traditional Mexican artesania with gothic religious iconography to create something truly unique – a homage to powerful female icons.

This idea was ahead of its time, captivating the hearts and minds of fashion lovers everywhere, and garnering a devoted following of celebrity fans, including Madonna, Britney Spears, Alicia Keys, Lady Gaga, and John Galliano.

Cheryl Finnegan — Cheryl “Finn” Finnegan, founder of Virgins, Saints & Angels jewelry line. (Courtesy)

With a passion for creativity and a love for San Miguel, Cheryl fondly recalls the humble beginnings of her company in 1999. “It all started with a custom-made belt-buckle embellished with the Virgin Guadalupe in a small, dimly-lit, dusty workshop. All of a sudden we had an extended family of craftsmen, each adding their own individual touches and energy to every unique piece.”

Each exquisite piece of jewelry is handcrafted by local artisans, honoring the powerful imagery and beauty of San Miguel. And now, she’s bringing her creative expertise to the world of real estate with Suite Tallulah.

Lovingly named after her daughter, Suite Tallulah is eclectic and inviting, with a comfortable and lived-in feel. The enchanting facade and breathtaking ironwork, adorned with the signature Virgins, Saints & Angels heart logo, foreshadow the magic waiting inside.

Key Features:

This charming one-bedroom pied-à–terre offers affordable luxury in the center of San Miguel de Allende at the unbeatable price of US $375,000
Beautifully furnished and decorated with a mix of old-world charm and modern style by celebrated luxury jewelry designer, Cheryl ‘Finn’ Finnegan of iconic brand Virgins, Saints & Angels, worn by celebrity admirers, including Madonna and Britney Spears
The spacious one-bedroom boasts its very own walk-in closet and dressing area with French doors opening onto a small patio and a breathtaking private roof terrace with panoramic views of San Miguel
An ideal option as a lucrative rental for anyone looking to invest in property in the center of San Miguel de Allende

“There’s a lot of love in that house. You wouldn’t believe how many people have proposed on Suite Tallulah’s rooftop and then come back year after year,” says Cheryl.

From the cozy living room with its timeless cantera fireplace, skylights, and vintage tiled floors, to the kitchen with its open shelving and built-in cabinets, visitors immediately feel right at home. And with a half-bath conveniently located on the first level, you have everything you need right at your fingertips.

Privacy, security, and peace have been prioritized here with the addition of world-class noise canceling, triple-glazed windows and doors throughout the property.

The bedroom upstairs boasts charming details, including French doors that open out onto a small patio with a beautiful fountain, and a large walk-in closet with a dressing area, with views overlooking the cobbled San Miguel streets.

The bathroom has a generous bathtub and a chandelier suspended over the sink, adding an extra touch of luxury.

And finally, the cherry on top of this elegant cake: the exceptional rooftop terrace.

Furnished with a tented sofa, and surrounded by a variety of local plants, this outdoor oasis is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the stunning views of Centro and the hills surrounding the city.

Suite Tallulah is a true gem, a mix of old-world charm and modern style. With its affordable price, prime location, and gorgeous views, it’s the perfect home for anyone looking to make their dreams of living in Mexico a reality.

For more information and to schedule a viewing, contact Jessica Patterson of |CDR San Miguel |Forbes Global Properties. The asking price is US $375,000.

Mexico’s monarchs: a magical experience for the whole family

By

Debbie Slobe

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February 9, 2023

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Butterfly sanctuary Cerro Pelon in mexico state — The secret to having a great family trip to Mexico's monarch butterfly sanctuaries is finding the one that's the right fit for your group. (Photos: Debbie Slobe)

It’s high season for monarch butterfly viewing in Mexico — the time of year when millions of butterflies arrive to their wintering grounds in the central highlands. These amazing insects migrate upwards of 3,000 miles to their winter habitat in the mountains in México state and Michoacán.

They’re here from November through March, so there’s still time to see them this winter.

We made the trip to the monarch sanctuaries of Cerro Pelón and Sierra Chincua in January with our 10-year-old daughter, friends from the U.S. and their two kids (ages 10 and 13), as well as their grandmother in her 70s. We were pleasantly surprised to find out just how accessible and family-friendly the experience was.

First of all, you don’t have to get up at the crack of dawn to see the butterflies. In fact, they aren’t active until midday, when the sun is strong enough to warm their bodies.

Secondly, you don’t have to hike long distances. While their colonies are high up in the mountains, most sanctuaries have horses you can ride to the top. Thirdly, you don’t need binoculars or spotting scopes like with most other wildlife viewing. In fact, the butterflies fly so close — some will land on you — you need to watch your step so you don’t hurt any.

Now back from our adventure and still abuzz with beautiful butterfly memories, I thought I’d share some tips for how to make your experience even more enjoyable if visiting the sanctuaries with kids (and grandparents).

At Cerro Pelon butterfly sanctuary in Mexico state — One of the writers’ most enthusiastic pieces of advice is to get to the sanctuaries early in the day so you and your group can enjoy the magic of the monarchs without battling crowds.

Plan to stay a few days

It’s a good 3–4 hours from either Mexico City or Morelia to the nearest sanctuaries. A seven-or-more-hour round-trip car ride (with kids!) to spend just a few hours with the butterflies really isn’t enough. And if you arrive too late, there’s a crush of tourists. Instead, stay a couple days in the area and pick a few sanctuaries.

We based ourselves in the town of Macheros, México state, where we stayed three nights at the Cerro Pelón Butterfly B&B. It’s adjacent to the least-visited sanctuary of them all — Cerro Pelón, and owned by a local family that’s been protecting the butterfly colonies for decades. Managers Joel and Ana Moreno, whose father, uncle and cousin worked as forest rangers here for more than 30 years, are continuing their family’s legacy.

Their beautiful B&B and guiding service caters to butterfly tourists worldwide, and their nonprofit, Butterflies and Their People, supports a new generation of forest guardians.

With a pool, a big lawn where the kids can play, cozy rooms with fluffy robes, piles of fleece blankets (it gets cold at night!) and stuff to fix yourself a warm drink, this was the perfect home base for our group of eight.

Pick the right sanctuary for your family

Each sanctuary offers visitors a unique experience, and some require a bit more effort than others to reach the butterflies. For families with younger kids and less mobile adults, El Rosario or Sierra Chincua is a good option, with its easier hiking trails and 15–20 minute horseback rides to the butterflies. There are bathrooms, food and craft stands, picnic areas and parking at the bottom.

If visiting here, I’d recommend staying at the lovely Pueblo Mágico of Agangueo, Michoacán, a half-hour drive from either site. Have older kids or active older adults? Cerro Pelón is a must; it feels more like an adventure than the other sites.

guided horseback ride to butterfly colonies in Cerro Pelon sanctuary — No matter what the fitness levels and amenities preferences of your group, you’ll want to say yes to the guided horseback rides to the butterfly colonies.

It’s a little over an hour on horseback to the colonies, and a climb of 2,000 feet. (You can also hike it.) The view at the top feels much more intimate than at the more developed sanctuaries.

Trust me: hire the horses

All sanctuaries require you to go with a guide. You can either hike to reach the colonies or go by horseback with the guide leading the horse. If you’re wondering which way to go on this, trust me, you want a horse — especially if you are traveling with kids. All the colonies are at about 10,000 feet in elevation, so even a short hike at that altitude can be taxing.

Since the Cerro Pelón ride is the longest, I’d recommend visiting this sanctuary first if you are visiting more than one; if your bum is too sore to get back on a horse the next day, the hike on foot will be easier at the other sanctuaries. We opted for the horses every time, and the kids had a blast.

Don’t visit on weekends

The sanctuaries are far less crowded in the middle of the week. We visited Cerro Pelón on a Monday and were among just a small group of people quietly viewing the butterflies at the top of the mountain. It was magical, sitting and watching the butterflies fly all around us. Our whole group was mesmerized; even the kids never once said they were bored.

We visited Sierra Chincua on a Tuesday and arrived just before the crowds got too big. It was a lovely viewing experience as well.

Bring creative tools for capturing the experience

Our younger girls spent time each afternoon drawing colorful butterflies, and the teenager brought her camera to take close-up butterfly photos. I thrilled at the sight of our kids entertaining themselves without screens after our day’s adventures. One of them even said that they were glad not to have Wi-Fi at the B&B so that they could just have fun and create. (We didn’t tell them the B&B had perfectly good internet.)

La Marquesa national park in Toluca, Mexico state — On the way from Mexico City to the Cerro Pelón butterfly sanctuary on the Mexico-Toluca highway, La Marquesa — an amusement park of sorts — has food, hiking, swimming, quad bikes and many other enthralling activities for kids, including this “gerbil ball.”

Hire a driver to get you there

After weighing all the options for getting to Cerro Pelón — buses, Ubers, taxis, etc. — we opted to hire a private van and driver. It cost us US $760 round-trip from Mexico City, but it wasn’t much more than the two Ubers we would have needed.

A van and driver meant we could stop whenever we wanted, and everyone had lots of space to spread out or nap. We arranged our driver through our B&B, so you might get a better deal if you find one on your own, but the turnkey service was so worth it and our driver was such a pro.

Our driver, Hector, made a stop at La Marquesa — a national park in Toluca off the Mexico-Toluca highway — where you can ride horses or quad bikes, fish, go boating and more. Or, do what our kids did: tumble around in a giant, inflatable gerbil ball!

Our time with the monarchs was one we’ll never forget. And now that we know how family-friendly it can be, we are already thinking about a return trip with our daughter’s grandparents next year.

Debbie Slobe is a writer and communications strategist based in Chacala, Nayarit. She blogs at Mexpatmama.com and is a senior program director at Resource Media. Find her on Instagram and Facebook.

Microsoft prepares new data center region in Querétaro state

By

MND Staff

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February 9, 2023

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Servers in a data center — Revenue in the data center market globally is expected to reach US $342B this year, according to Statista.(Depositphotos)

Microsoft is developing a data center in the state of Querétaro that will seek to optimize the company’s digital services and that will further fortify the state’s position as an important data center hub.

The company’s vision is to build the world’s largest cloud infrastructure, and Querétaro’s data center region, designated Mexico Central, will be a part of it. The center will rank number 62 in capacity worldwide and is the first Microsoft data center region in all of Spanish-speaking Latin America.

QRO governor Mauricio Kuri — Querétaro governor Mauricio Kuri during an immersive tour of Microsoft México headquarters on Tuesday. (Mauricio Kuri Twitter)

“With the establishment of the new Microsoft data center region, we are committed to becoming the flagship of the cloud in Mexico, taking advantage of new investment opportunities for the industry,” Querétaro governor Mauricio Kuri said during a tour of Microsoft headquarters in Mexico.

Microsoft’s Latin America president Rodrigo Kede and CEO of Microsoft Mexico, Rafael Sánchez Loza, said that during the construction phase, 1,000 jobs have already been created.

Last year, the Sustainable Economic Development Ministry of Querétaro announced that more than 15 data center projects statewide were in the negotiations stage. The Brazilian company Odata invested US $79 million in 2022 to build the first phase of Mexico’s largest data center to date.

Odata center in Querétaro — Brazilian company Odata has built the largest data center in Mexico to date. (Odata)

Microsoft currently operates more than 200 data centers around the world.

“Bringing this type of initiative to Mexico is one more step in our commitment to innovation,” said Sánchez.

According to the Microsoft México CEO, the project seeks to catalyze “a substantial transformation in Mexico.”

The center will be a residence for Microsoft cloud solutions and is expected to be a data processing point for the financial, government and health sectors; the goal is also to help entrepreneurs with small and medium-sized companies to grow and modernize.

According to Microsoft, the new region will operate based on sustainable development goals, using renewable energy and cooling. It will also use a water recycling system.

“Querétaro is one of the engines of the Mexican economy, and we see digitization as a key platform to continue growing,” Governor Kuri said.

With reports from El Economista, El Universal Querétaro and Expansión

Mexican airspace protection law passes in Chamber of Deputies

By

Cat Rainsford

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February 9, 2023

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Plane flying over Mexican airspace — The bill proposes creating an Airspace Monitoring and Protection Center, with personal from six federal agencies and coordinated by the Defense Ministry.

The Chamber of Deputies voted Wednesday to approve a law that will give Mexico’s armed forces control over Mexican airspace.

The Mexican Airspace Protection Law authorizes the Defense Ministry (Sedena) to oversee air traffic monitoring and to use its resources to “deter threats that violate national security in airspace.”

Specifically, the bill proposes an Airspace Monitoring and Protection Center which will draw personnel from six federal agencies – Sedena; the Navy; the Infrastructure, Communications and Transport Ministry (SICT); the Security Ministry; the Finance Ministry; and the Interior Ministry — coordinated by the Sedena.

This center will monitor unusual aircraft activity often associated with organized crime, including turning off transponder codes, unexplained route changes and failure to communicate with air traffic control services. Suspicious aircraft may then be intercepted by Sedena.

The new system was proposed by President López Obrador under the argument that there is currently a legal vacuum regarding the protection of airspace.

Morena federal Deputy Amairany Peña said that the law will “combat drug trafficking, arms and wildlife trafficking, human trafficking, terrorism and other transnational crimes of high social impact.”

Citizens' Movement Party Deputy Jorge Alvarez — Citizens’ Movement Party Deputy Jorge Alvarez speaks to reporters about his party’s opposition to the bill. (Photo: Citizens’ Movement)

Defense Commission Chairman Ricardo Villarreal of the National Action Party (PAN) stressed that a security alert is reported on average every 36 hours for aerial activity associated with organized crime. Between December 2018 and November 2021, there were 720 notices for suspicious aircraft to be monitored or intercepted.

Villarreal acknowledged that, although Sedena already participates in intercepting aircraft, the current legal framework makes it difficult to prosecute the crew or owners.

The Chamber of Deputies approved the law with 263 votes in favor, 26 against and 195 abstentions.

The vote was split broadly on party lines, with Morena and its allies voting in favor, the Va por México coalition of the PRI, PAN and PRD abstaining and the Citizen Movement (MC) voting against.

Explaining her party’s opposition, MC deputy coordinator Mirza Flores Gómez said, “What this ruling really seeks is to advance the consolidation of the militarization of our country.”

The MC argued in a dissenting motion that many of the issues raised in the proposed legislation are already addressed by the Civil Aviation Law.

Mexican military guarding plane flying illegally into Mexican airspace in Chiapas — The army and air force already monitors Mexican airspace in the pursuit of contraband smugglers at strategic security points like Mexico’s borders. Armed forces tracked this plane after it flew illegally into Chiapas airspace in Dec. 2021. (Photo: Sedena)

“In this sense, there is no relationship between the problems indicated and the need to create a law that militarizes airspace and civil aviation,” said the motion.

The MC has consistently opposed moves by AMLO that increase the power of the military, such as the recent reform that extends Sedena’s authority over the National Guard.

The bill will now progress to the Senate, where it will be debated in the coming days.

With reports from La Jornada and Animal Político