For Belize, where tourism generates 40% of GDP, a Maya Train connection could significantly boost the nation's economy.(Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)
Prime Minister of Belize Johnny Briceño wants a Maya Train for his Caribbean nation and has asked President Claudia Sheinbaum to consider extending the train’s tracks beyond Mexico’s southeastern border.
“It could open a new market for tourists since many who visit Cancún are from Europe and we don’t get many visitors from Europe,” Briceño said of the Maya Train. (@JohnBricenoBZE/X)
Briceño told reporters last week that he has formally requested that Mexico expand its Maya Train just seven miles, from Chetumal, Quintana Roo, across the Hondo River and to the Belize border.
“I sent a letter to [President Sheinbaum] last year. When I met her in October [at her inauguration in October 2024], we talked about the Maya Train,” Briceño said, insisting that Mexico’s president initially expressed support for his idea. “She assured me that she wants to continue the work that President López Obrador started.”
In the letter, Briceño said, he also proposed that the Maya Train cross Belize and connect to the iconic Maya ruins of Tikal in northern Guatemala.
“It could open a new market for tourists since many who visit Cancún are from Europe and we don’t get many visitors from Europe,” he said, according to the online news blog Riviera Maya News. “With the Maya Train, it would be much easier for them to travel to Belize.”
Although Sheinbaum has not provided an official response, Briceño is campaigning for support, even promoting the proposed tracks for cargo use. “[M]oving products from Mexico to Belize would be easier as would moving our products … to the United States and Canada [through Mexico], so it is an opportunity for everyone to win.”
Belizeans embrace regional potential of the Maya Train
With or without the track extension, residents of a Belizean city just 25 kilometers south of Chetumal, Quintana Roo, are seeking to benefit from the Maya Train, according to the newspaper Novedades Quintana Roo.
Corozal, Belize, located just 25 kilometers south of Chetumal, is hoping to attract tourism from Maya Train passengers. (@gobpressoffice/X)
The city of Corozal boasts several Maya ruins and is also Belize’s top duty-free zone. It is Belize’s northernmost town — about 140 kilometers north of the capital Belize City — and is the economic lifeblood of the country’s north.
Daniel Alberto Torres, director of the duty-free zone, said Corozal is already working with officials from Othón P. Blanco, the Mexican municipality that borders Belize and of which Chetumal is the county seat.
“We believe that as the Maya Train approaches 100%, it can produce an influx of visitors [from Chetumal] if we successfully promote our attractions,” Torres said, pointing out that Corozal takes part in Chetumal cultural and economic events such as Carnaval and Expofer.
Torres believes that the development being driven by the Maya Train in southeastern Mexico will boost the entire region by encouraging infrastructure investment, especially along borders.
Corozal — which was founded in 1848 by Maya refugees fleeing the Caste War in Yucatán — received 100,000 visitors in December 2024, and reached nearly one million tourists for the entire year. Torres says the goal is to top one million visitors in 2025.
Chinese car brands like BYD have become increasingly well-known in Mexico in recent years. (Joshua Fernández/Unsplash)
The boom of Chinese car sales in Mexico appears to be slowing down, after failing to grow by double digits for the first time in four years, the newspaper El Economista reported Monday. However, the data is preliminary, as some Chinese vehicle brands have not yet shared sales figures with the National Institute of Geography and Statistics (INEGI).
China positioned itself as the main supplier of imported light vehicles in Mexico between 2022 and 2024. However, its growth rate has fallen in recent months owing to lower customer satisfaction and uncertainty around the future of Chinese imports due to growing trade tensions between China and the U.S. under President-elect Donald Trump.
A Chirey SUV in the streets of Condesa, Mexico City. (RiveraNotorio/Flickr)
Chinese car sales increased by 9.8% in 2024, to 302,837 units, contributing 20.2% of the total light vehicle sales in Mexico, INEGI data shows.
By contrast, Chinese car sales rose by 103% in 2021, 128.4% in 2022 and 51.4% in 2023, as China rapidly expanded its share of the Mexican market from just 0.3% in 2017.
In the major vehicle-producing state of Guanajuato in Mexico’s Bajío region, Chinese automakers contributed 7.7% of total car sales in 2024, according to a Mexican Association of Automobile Distributors (AMDA) report. Guanajuato had the seventh-most car sales of any Mexican state last year.
One reason for China’s rapid sales growth was General Motors’s shift from using Mexican car components to Chinese, as well as Chevrolet’s decision to move manufacturing operations for its Aveo and Sonic vehicles from Mexico to China. The Chinese brand SAIC Motors, the parent company of MG Motor, took over the manufacturing business for the new Aveo, the Onyx, the Groove and the Captiva.
GM has been the biggest seller of Chinese-assembled vehicles in Mexico since 2018.
The rise in the popularity of cars from Chinese automakers also contributed to the rapid rise in growth. Brands such as MG Motor, Chirey, Omoda, Changan, Great Wall Motor and Jetour have become more widely known, together registering imports of 116,000 units to Mexico in 2024, according to INEGI.
General Motors’ decision to manufacture some models in China — including the Chevrolet Aveo, pictured — boosted the market share of Chinese-made cars in Mexico. (Chevrolet)
Some major Chinese automakers have not reported their sales to INEGI, including BYD, Geely, Zeekr, GAC and Bestune.
Recent customer satisfaction studies from the consumer insights company J.D. Power showed that overall satisfaction with Chinese-branded cars was among the lowest in Mexico, which likely contributed to lower sales growth.
Chinese brands scored 812 points out of 1,000 on the APEAL (Automotive Performance, Execution and Layout) scale, compared to Japanese brands, at 899, and South Korean brands, with 896. Mercedes-Benz came out on top with a score of 932.
Sales are also lagging due to poor consumer confidence in the lead-up to Trump’s presidential inauguration on Jan. 20. Trump has threatened to increase tariffs on Chinese imports by an additional 10%. This follows the introduction of 100% tariffs on Chinese imports by the Biden administration in 2024.
Of the nearly 8 million visitors who entered the country in November, 3.94 million were international tourists. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)
In November 2024, Mexico saw 13.2% more international tourists than in the same month of 2023, along with a 11% increase in tourism revenue, according to a report published Monday by the National Institute of Statistics and Geography (INEGI).
According to INEGI, 7.6 million visitors entered the country in November, an increase of 20.3% compared to 2023. Of these, 3.94 million were international tourists (travelers who spent at least one night in Mexico), up from 3.48 million in the same month of the previous year.
The primary annual increase observed was in border tourism, which saw 33.3% year-on-year growth in November, totaling 1.65 million tourists.
The number of tourists arriving by air increased by 0.9% to 1.93 million, while the remaining visitors to Mexico arrived by land or cruise ship.
Total spending by international tourists soared by 9.8% year-on-year in November, reaching US $2.52 billion. Of this total, 93.3% came from inbound tourists — those residing abroad who visit Mexico and stay overnight — while 6.7% came from tourists who visited Mexico via the border.
Average spending per tourist (including international, cruise and border tourists), however, fell by 7% year-on-year from US $392.42 to $362.13.
The most recent INEGI data reveals a continued upward trend in tourism to Mexico, which received 42.15 million international tourists during 2023, 10% more than in 2022. Mexico was the sixth most visited country in the world in 2023 — after Italy (No. 5) — with 38.3 million visitors, according to data from the World Tourism Organization. It surpassed countries like Austria (10), the United Kingdom (7) and the United Arab Emirates (12).
Final tourism figures for 2024 have yet to be announced.
Mexicans are also traveling and spending more abroad
Mexico saw more people leave the country than tourists entering Mexico in 2024.
According to INEGI, 6.8 million residents in Mexico traveled abroad in November 2024 – a figure 43.8% higher than that of November 2023. Of these, 1.8 million were international tourists who spent at least one night abroad.
Mexican tourists’ average spending abroad also shot up 31.9% in November 2024, from $856.9 to $1,129.9.
Sheinbaum spoke of her government's progress and plans to continue former President López Obrador's "transformation of public life in Mexico." (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)
President Claudia Sheinbaum delivered an hourlong address in Mexico City’s central square on Sunday, highlighting her government’s achievements during its first 100 days in office and outlining its core commitments and plans for 2025 and beyond.
In front of a packed Zócalo and with her cabinet ministers seated behind her, Sheinbaum also reiterated her belief that Mexico will have a good relationship with the United States during Donald Trump’s second term as U.S. president.
Spectators packed the Mexico City Zócalo to see Sheinbaum’s 100-day address on Sunday. (Presidencia)
In her opening remarks, Mexico’s first female president said that the purpose of her speech was to be accountable to the citizens of Mexico and to “reinforce our commitment to always be close to the people” and “govern with the people” and “for the people.”
“That is the fourth transformation of public life in Mexico!” she said, referring to the nickname of the political project initiated by former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador.
“… Why do we call [our term in government] the second story of the fourth transformation? Because the foundations … were laid by the best president — Andrés Manuel López Obrador, and it’s up to us to consolidate … and advance with the second story,” Sheinbaum said.
‘It’s time for transformation and time for women’
“Discrimination, racism, classism and machismo are relics of the past,” Sheinbaum declared early in her speech.
“Mexico is changing for the better, even those anchored in the past know that. We are living in exceptional, unique, extraordinary times because it’s time for transformation and time for women,” she said.
Sheinbaum subsequently emphasized the positive aspects of Mexico’s current situation, and enumerated a long list of government achievements during her first 100 days in office, a milestone she reached last Thursday. Among the positives and achievements she highlighted were that:
Standing on a white stage on a cloudy and cool Mexico City morning, Sheinbaum said that she and her government were elected to provide “continuity” to the “transformation” initiated by López Obrador (AMLO) when he took office in late 2018.
At her 100-day address, Sheinbaum reaffirmed her commitment to continuing AMLO’s political project.(Cuartoscuro)
“Some media outlets criticize us [asking], ‘Why don’t we differentiate ourselves? Why do we defend the welfare programs and strategic [infrastructure] projects? Why is there continuity in [AMLO’s political] project?’ But if we always said we would [build on AMLO’s legacy], why the surprise?” the president asked.
Sheinbaum declared that under her leadership, the “neoliberal model” of the past won’t return and the “regime of corruption and privileges” of past governments won’t either.
The president said that her government will continue with the doctrine of “Mexican humanism” developed by López Obrador and obey “the maxim” of “For the good of all, the poor come first.”
“… We don’t betray our principles, we don’t betray our past, we don’t betray our flag and we will never betray the people of Mexico,” Sheinbaum said.
What’s ahead for Mexico in the Sheinbaum era?
Sheinbaum said that June 1, 2025 will be remembered as a significant day in the history of Mexico because “for the first time judges, magistrates and Supreme Court justices will be democratically elected.”
“Let there be no doubt, the judicial power will be autonomous,” the president said, seeking to dispel a major concern of critics of the judicial reform that paved the way for the staging of Mexico’s first judicial elections.
The judiciary will continue to be autonomous, Sheinbaum promised on Sunday. (CDMX Servicio de Medios Públicos)
Continuing a lengthy address that the president herself described as “brief,” Sheinbaum highlighted that:
This year will be dedicated to “the Indigenous woman in order to extol the origin of Mexico and recognize and give a voice to those who they wanted to silence for so many years.”
Millions of Mexicans, including senior citizens, people with disabilities, public school students and women ages 63 and 64, will receive financial assistance from the government in 2025.
Some 845,000 people will work in the government’s Youths Building the Future and Sowing Life employment schemes in 2025.
“We said we were going to provide continuity to and increase the social programs. … It’s very simple — the money that was previously stolen or used to buy votes … is today distributed for the benefit of all the people of Mexico,” Sheinbaum said.
The president also said that:
The federal government will build 20 new high schools this year.
Sheinbaum defends Mexicans in the US and reiterates belief that Trump will respect Mexico
Ahead of Trump’s return to the White House and the commencement of what the U.S. president-elect has said will be the “the largest deportation operation in American history,” Sheinbaum highlighted that Mexicans in the United States make a significant contribution to the U.S. economy.
While they contribute to the Mexican economy by sending home tens of billions of dollars in remittances every year, Mexican immigrants in the United States “contribute more to the U.S. economy because what they send to Mexico is just 20% of what they leave there in consumption, savings and taxes,” she said.
“Mexican workers work like no one else in the United States. They’re extraordinary workers in the fields, in construction, in services. They are great scientists in [U.S.] universities. They are heroes and heroines of the homeland,” Sheinbaum said.
The deportation of large numbers of Mexicans from the United States could significantly reduce the amount of money remitted to Mexico, where economic growth slowed significantly in 2024.
The president once again highlighted the contributions of Mexican emigrants to the U.S. economy during her Sunday speech. (File photo)
Approaching the end of her address, Sheinbaum acknowledged that there have been both “painful” and “good” times in the Mexico-United States relationship. She then highlighted that AMLO had “a good relationship” with Trump during his first term as U.S. president.
The president-to-president relationship was characterized by “respect” and “collaboration,” Sheinbaum said before emphasizing the benefits the USMCA trade pact — which is scheduled for review in 2026 — has brought to each of Mexico, the United States and Canada.
“Our vision is Mexican humanism, fraternity between peoples and nations,” Sheinbaum added before stressing that Mexico is a “free, independent and sovereign country” that collaborates with other nations but will never accept subordination.
“Rest assured that I am dedicated body and soul to the good of our people and the nation,” the president said at the tail end of an address that she concluded by wishing long life to “our migrant brothers in the United States,” the “fourth transformation,” the “people of Mexico” and — of course — Mexico itself.
Mexico is a magical country, we all know that by now. Is there anything more magical than a walking tree though? (All photos by Bel Woodhouse)
One of my all-time favorite things is stumbling upon something amazing without even trying. You know what I mean? When you turn a corner and — bam — there’s something incredible, and you think, “How did I not know about this?”
The Yucatán peninsula holds many secrets and you can find more and more with every trip to the region. (@MaraLezama/X)
It might sound unbelievable, but the second discovery happened to me during my last visit to Playa del Carmen. I’ve visited Playa countless times over the past eight years, living on Cozumel, since that’s where the ferry from the island docks. After so many visits, I didn’t think there were any more surprises left.
I was wrong.
Walking down leafy Calle 38 toward the beach, a giant tree stopped me in my tracks. Its canopy stretched over the road and the restaurants on either side, leaving me gobsmacked. My first thought was, “The Tule Tree in Oaxaca had a baby.”
The Álamo in Playa del Carmen, Mexico’s walking tree
This majestic Ficus Maxima is named “Álamo.”
Álamo, a giant Mexican fig tree, as described on the plaque, is a type of fig tree native to Mexico, Ficus maxima. Maxima is right! While it’s not Mexico’s largest tree, it is the country’s largest fig tree. Why is that noteworthy? Because it’s a natural wonder. To my nature-loving heart, that’s pretty awesome.
Like all botanical enthusiasts, I’m thrilled when a massive tree, a beautiful flower, or some exotic plant catches me off guard. The kind of thrilled that leaves me standing in the street so long that people ask if I’m okay. In fact, one friendly local sitting under the tree did ask if I was lost and offered to help — another reason to love Mexican people.
He pointed to a plaque on the sidewalk, providing more information. It read: “I am an Álamo, an old and native barbel tree that likes to walk.”
How does the Álamo walk?
My second favorite discovery, after the tree itself, was learning that it walks. Yes, you read that correctly.
This type of Mexican fig tree, known as a barbel, has aerial roots that grow thick and long toward the ground. When they reach the ground, they become columns, called legs or buttresses. Over time, as one leg dries, another forms, literally taking the next step. This process allows the tree to slowly “walk” across the forest.
Indigenous people call this tree “Kopo” or “Sacahua.” They believe where it grows, a cenote is nearby. I can believe it. My friend and I walked through a five-million-year-old cave last month, and thick tree roots hung from the ceiling, reaching into the cenote’s water below.
A living museum of trees
The hanging roots of the tree allow it to slowly “walk” across the landscape as it continues to grow.
Development and urban sprawl often lead to the destruction of these ancient trees — hundreds of years of growth felled in minutes. This living museum educates people about the native trees of the region, their environmental impact, and the unique micro-environments they create.
As the plaque says, “I am a tree. And like you, I have legs, arms, I breathe, I feel, and I live.”
A world in a tree
Spending time with the Álamo revealed a world around me. Squirrels chattered, climbed, and ran along its sprawling branches, making nests in the trunk’s nooks and crannies. As dusk approached, butterflies, bugs, and bats emerged. I counted seven bird species in just ten minutes, all visiting, feeding, or roosting in the branches.
An entire ecosystem in ten minutes. Isn’t it amazing what you can see when you slow down and observe a tree? Especially one in a bustling tourist area near the beach in Playa del Carmen. Figs are considered a keystone species for fruit-eating animals, providing reliable food during scarce times like droughts.
It’s no wonder an entire world exists in a walking tree — it almost feels like an analogy for Mexico itself.
The most amazing relationship of all
The Álamo is a living museum and a testament to the wonders of nature.
Did you know figs are pollinated exclusively by wasps? Each fig tree has a mutualistic relationship with a specific wasp species, meaning they can only reproduce within that tree’s figs.
This blew my mind almost as much as learning that figs have enclosed flowers. There’s a tiny hole for the wasp to wriggle through to pollinate the hundreds of tiny flowers inside as the female wasp lays her eggs.
I had to rack my brain to remember if I’d ever seen a fig flower. But for me, the micro-environment this tree creates is as amazing as the fact that it walks. What an incredible discovery to make without even trying.
Walking trees — just another incredible day in Mexico!
Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.
When we think of Mexico, we often think of avocado, coconut and lemon as major flavors. Perhaps we ought to be thinking of grapefruit instead. (Canva)
Grapefruit is a natural manifestation, the combination of the sweet orange Citrus sinensis and the orange, pomelo Citrus maxima, the latter having a slightly pungent taste like grapefruit, but a little sweeter. The resulting product, the grapefruit, originally called “the forbidden fruit,” (for reasons unclear) is a delightful blending of these two oranges. With the Mexican agricultural industry becoming a powerhouse in global grapefruit cultivation, why not try your hand at a citrus cake in celebration?
Grapefruit occurred naturally in the Caribbean before making its way to Mexico in the 18th century, where it flourished. This country is now the third largest producer of the fruit in the world, after China and the United States, producing about 424,000 tons annually. White, pink and red grapefruit are the varieties grown here and they are grown in abundance.
Mexico is actually the world’s third largest producer of the pink citrus fruit. (Zoriana Stakhniv/Unsplash)
Mexico is now a world player when it comes to grapefruit and international markets, although perhaps the connection between Mexican cuisine and the delicious fruit is not always as strong as it deserves to be.
Either way, the Mexican grapefruit is valued for its quality, taste, and variety. So why not make a refreshing “forbidden” bundt cake? Light but tantalizing in taste, this fruity cake is a pleasant break after the heavy desserts we’ve enjoyed during the holidays.
What makes this bundt so unique and special is the fresh grapefruit syrup that’s infused into the cake while it’s still warm, making it burst with citrus flavor, not to mention the rind in the batter and the grapefruit glaze which tops it off!
1 Cup (237 ml) whole milk, at room temperature (leche entera)
3/4 Cup (180 g) melted butter, cooled (mantequilla)
Best Mexican brands: Lala; Gloria; Alpura; Aguascalientes; Flor de Alfalfa.
1 tsp. (4.2 g) vanilla extract (extracto de vanilla)
Mexican brands noted for intense flavor: Villa Vainilla; Vainilla Totonac’s; Molina Vainilla
GrapefruitSyrup
1 Cup (247 g) fresh grapefruit juice, approx. 2 small grapefruits
Use pink or red.
1/3 Cup (67 g) granulated sugar
Glaze
3/4 Cup (75 g) confectioners’ sugar
1 Tbs. (15 g) plus 1/2 tsp. (2.84 g) fresh grapefruit juice
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 F (176 C)
Grease a bundt pan generously with butter and coat with breadcrumbs.
Breadcrumbs will not flavor the cake but will ensure an easy release.
Next:
In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Set aside.
In a bowl mix sugar and grapefruit zest together. Rub the sugar and zest with your fingers or a spoon until the sugar is moist and fragrant.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, add the sugar mixture and the eggs. Beat on medium speed for approximately 3 minutes, until the mixture is thick and ribbon-like.
With the mixer on low, slowly add the milk, then the butter, and finally the vanilla.
Next, add the dry ingredients in 3 additions, beating just until combined.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
Bake for 30-35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Put the cake, in the pan, on a wired rack.
Next:
While the cake is baking, make the syrup.
In a small saucepan, combine the grapefruit juice and sugar. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar, continue to simmer for 1 minute. Then turn off the heat and set aside.
Next:
While the cake is in the pan, use a skewer or a toothpick to poke deep holes all over the cake.
Slowly pour the grapefruit syrup all over the cake, pausing as necessary to allow it to soak in.
Reserve a little for the top of the cake.
Next:
Let the cake cool for 10 minutes, then carefully turn onto a serving tray. Brush the top of the cake with the remaining grapefruit syrup (or poke holes and pour the syrup on top).
Make the glaze:
In a bowl, stir the confectioners’ sugar and grapefruit juice together until the glaze is smooth and pliable.
Drizzle over the cake allowing the glaze to drip down the sides.
Let the glaze set before serving.
Disfruta
Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter™ on FaceBook and X (Twitter), and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” via CakeChatter (available @amazon.com). She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals™ (aa-wp.com).
Karla Sofía Gascón as the title character of "Emilia Pérez." (Pathé)
A new Golden Globe-winning musical comedy, Emilia Pérez, is sparking debate, raising questions about the role of art in depicting sensitive and potentially offensive subjects. The film has garnered praise for its technical achievements, including cinematography and acting. However, some viewers find the film’s premise and portrayal of certain characters to be problematic.
The controversy stems from concerns about the film’s handling of real-world issues and whether it trivializes a serious crisis. Critics argue that the film’s comedic approach is insensitive and sends the wrong message. This debate highlights the importance of considering diverse perspectives and the ethical implications of creative choices when tackling complex social issues.
MND Deep Dive: Is Emilia Pérez offensive?
Join our subscriber-exclusive podcast as we discuss whether Emilia Pérez is a subversive and masterful take on the humanitarian crisis facing Mexico, or whether the show is a tired recycling of lazy tropes, presented in the most disrespectful manner possible.
This podcast was produced using AI tools. All information collected and discussed in this episode was investigated, written and edited by human journalists. Compiled from a Mexico News Daily article by María Meléndez. Edited by Chris Havler-Barrett. Podcast produced by Chris Havler-Barrett.
Xalapa is Mexican coffee country and it shows in the city's cafe scene. (Alan Chazaro)
In case you haven’t heard, Xalapa — the Athenian, if not underappreciated capital of Veracruz — is a coffee lover’s paradise. Here, a calm pace of living invites plenty of cafe sessions around a bustling historic center saturated with sprawling parks. Importantly, the region’s tropical, mountainous climate is ideal for coffee bean cultivation.
Nowhere else in Mexico will you find such a heavy concentration of Veracruz’s caffeine offerings in so many varieties as you will in this lush university town. With a gorgeous view of both Cofre de Perote and the Pico de Orizaba, you’ll enjoy every drip of locally-grown, freshly brewed beverage with a vista.
From tradition to trendy, there’s a cafe in Xalapa that’s perfect for you. (Alan Chazaro)
Not much further east, in the much-larger port city of Veracruz, you’ll find legendary mainstays like El Gran Café de la Parroquia: a coffee lover’s haven that epitomizes the hot-weather region’s love for black coffee with milk. Indeed, Jarocho-style coffee has been popularized over the decades, extending out to other states that have attempted to recreate the Veracruzan flavors.
Though Xalapa’s legacy cafes — La Parroquia, Bola de Oro, La Estancia de los Tecajetes and Don Justo, to name a few — are certainly worth visiting for their charm and traditionalism, there is a notable wave of younger coffee upstarts who are making their mark here right now. I’ve gone to many and taken my notes to round up my absolute favorites. Here’s why Xalapa might just be the nation’s pound-for-pound coffee champ.
This is where you’ll find your favorite barista’s favorite barista hanging out. At Pera, coffee is both a science and an art. The coffees here impress with their purity of flavor and delicate preparation — the proper water amounts get weighed, the temperatures get carefully checked and the exact blends of chemistry evoke a sense of reverence with each sip.
Stroll up to the open bar or take a seat in one of Pera’s small, street-facing rooms with a view of the busy Historic Center. Their Xalapeños Ilustres is a must-try; a fizzy, caffeinated drink with a tonic base, shot of espresso and housemade agua de jamaica extract. For the purists, the flat white is most emblematic of Veracruz’s bygone cafe traditions, with a heavenly blend of concentrated black coffee and velvety white milk.
Fauna Café y Jardín
(Fauna)
The quirky art and effortlessly chill vibes — in conjunction with a large, verdant back patio — highlight this recently-opened cafe. The food options are also extensive, particularly for breakfast, which, gloriously, is served all day. The menu includes Mexican favorites but is highlighted by contemporary takes on Veracruzan staples like panuchos veracruzanos, molotes de plátanos, panela-stuffed nopal huaraches and pumpkin-flower omelettes.
In lieu of a traditional Americano or espresso, which just about anywhere in Xalapa serves extremely well, try Fauna’s Origami V60 drip — a coffee filter popularized by 2024’s World Brewers Cup champion, Jia Ning Du-san — or a rompope-spiked latte frio. If you’re looking for a lighter, juicier blend, opt for a frutos rojos cold brew, an iced coffee chilled for 48 hours then infused with strawberries and raspberries. The more you sip, the more the mashed berries at the bottom of your glass begin to pronounce themselves, until you reach the soaked berries bottom, which surprisingly maintain every bit of their sugary punch to balance any bitterness.
Sin Título
(Sin Título)
Bright red neon signage flashing across the restored walls of this 15th-century building will alert you that you have, indeed, reached Sin Título. The small and simple — if not minimal — cafe and art gallery along Belisario Domínguez is just around the bend from the city’s beautiful lakeside neighborhood. In addition to high-quality coffee beans, I go here for a refreshing splash of cold ginger brew or chilled zarzaparrilla mixed with mineral water. For an added delight, toss in a hefty freshly baked chocolate chip and walnut cookie, or housemade hummus if you’re in search of the savory.
In past lives, the space was a home and an arts center. It’s often filled with students and intellectuals from the nearby university’s music and theater program — a common thread throughout Xalapa’s cafes, since the state’s largest campus attracts a diverse student population from around the country. The building is beautifully constructed from stone, brick and cement, with a small library nook overhead, often stocked with an array of local, independently-published zines for sale.
As with many of the cafes located in Xalapa, Casa Elo has a vernal flair and leans towards the photogenically trendy. Currently, it’s the hot spot for weekend brunch in the city, with young families and cool students congregating inside its historic, mansion-like space to enjoy caffeinated brews — and at later hours, cocktails, served until midnight. This is the place to go for a nice sit-down breakfast, with a healthy variety of omelettes, breakfast burritos and toasts. A solid beverage rotation features matcha, fresh juices, kombucha and more, with standouts like their cafe de olla and their signature latte de mazapán, a liquified play on the famously crumbly Mexican candy.
Santa Elena Coffee Roasters
(Santa Elena/Instagram)
On the edge of Xalapa’s upscale Animas neighborhood, Santa Elena awaits. Inspired by the third wave coffee movement in Japan, which emphasizes specialty coffees and direct trade with farmers for sustainability, the shop has a hip youthfulness and funky aesthetic.
Priding themselves on their locally grown and sourced beans, Santa Elena roasts everything in-house. Plus, they offer cups on the spot, or bags to go. From their tostado clásico to their Coatepec Honey and Cafe Lavado de San Pablo, as well as my personal preference, their Volcanic Roast, you won’t be disappointed. In their spare time, they offer education on Veracruz’s bean cultivation and are passionate advocates for informing consumers on how the local coffee ecosystem functions. Extra points for the retro Super Nintendo available to play in their comfortable lounge.
With two locations, Emilia has become one of my go-to spots for coffee and pastries alike. Though the cafe’s ethos is largely driven by modern design elements, Emilia maintains a hint of an Old-World, Parisian haunt. The downtown location offers a small, street facing to-go window, where city dwellers can order, pay and take off without ever stepping foot inside the often-crowded — albeit miniature — cafe. The menu is no frills and made for the purists and traditionalists, making it an ideal place to grab a smooth Americano or espresso, and perhaps a lemon-zested cinnamon roll to begin your day in the City of Flowers.
Reformanda
(Reformanda)
In 2016, Reformanda’s flagship cafe opened near beautiful Parque Juarez — effectively Xalapa’s Zócalo — as a noteworthy newcomer. Since then, they’ve expanded to Murillo Vidal with a flat-iron style corner shop on the opposite end of downtown. The co-founder, Jared Orrico, is Q Arabica Grader-certified, the highest international recognition for a coffee taster. He regularly speaks on podcasts about coffee in Veracruz while also providing classes for Xalapeño javaphiles.
Reformanda has a constantly rotating seasonal menu, which adds to the attraction. But the stars of the show at “R” are the drinks: a guajillo-chile infused cold brew; a housemade rice horchata infused with cinnamon and cold brew; an organic orange juice infused with orange peels, orange bitters and cold brew known as the cold brew Old Fashioned and holiday specials like the apple latte for a taste of New Year.
Dos Gardenias
(Dos Gardenias)
In a city as saturated with exquisite coffee as Xalapa, you sometimes have to look for spots that offer something different and unique. That’s where Dos Gardenias, a recently opened vinyl record shop that serves locally-sourced coffee, provides a fresh outlet. Run by a group of 20-somethings, the spot is located inside an opulent, hacienda-like compound complete with its own garden, micro farm, guitar repair workshop and, of course, multi-room cafe overlooking the cobblestoned avenue below. The breakfast dishes are worthwhile and extremely affordable, and the coffee is as good as you’ll encounter anywhere. Ask the barista to toss on their favorite vinyl of choice, or dig through their diverse collection and put on something yourself to start off your day.
Oropéndola Barra de Café
(Oropéndola/Instagram)
Oropéndola, hidden in one of the city’s oldest alleys, deserves an entire spread inside a modern architecture and design magazine. Its precise mixture of glass, stone, bricks, polished concrete and wood are a cosmopolitan wonder.
Known for their excellent brunches and dinners, the drinks are no slouches, either. Ask for the home-brewed kombucha by the bottle if you’re in the mood for an effervescent boost, or go with a classic coffee pour, which contains all the desired notes of honey, red berries and chocolate. If you’re lucky, you’ll snag a limited balcony seat overlooking Oropéndola’s enclosed stone patio, while huddled among the rooftops clustering the tight alley below It’s also just a staircase away from the city’s most beloved, oldest church, the Iglesia de San José. Get a carajillo while you’re there — the famed espresso cocktail made with Licor 43 — and enjoy an evening with nothing to lose.
Alan Chazaro is the author of “This Is Not a Frank Ocean Cover Album,” “Piñata Theory” and “Notes From the Eastern Span of the Bay Bridge” (Ghost City Press, 2021). He is a graduate of June Jordan’s Poetry for the People program at UC Berkeley and a former Lawrence Ferlinghetti Fellow at the University of San Francisco. His writing can be found in GQ, NPR, The Guardian, L.A. Times and more. Originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, he is currently based in Veracruz.
Away from the crowds in Puerto Vallarta, here's a digest of the best destinations nearby to visit this year. (Kevin Noble/Unsplash)
Puerto Vallarta has its selling points — hundreds of them, frankly. But with so much to see, do and love, comes a considerable drawback — tourists by the millions. Puerto Vallarta welcomed nearly 3 million international visitors between January and September 2024, according to the Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board. That’s a nearly 4 percent increase compared to the same period last year. Puerto Vallarta is one of the world’s great tourist destinations, and rightly so.
As someone who’s called this sun-soaked corner of Mexico home for years, let me tell you that Puerto Vallarta is electric. Between the buzzing beach bars and the dizzying array of restaurants, it’s a city that thrives on energy. It is also exceedingly crowded, and that can be a bummer if you’re coming to town for a relaxing beach getaway.
Puerto Vallarta can get crowded — especially during the holidays. Why not try some new destinations nearby? (Taly Torres/Unsplash)
If you’re craving something more tranquil, don’t worry — you don’t have to venture too far. Whether you’re heading north or south, the contrast is striking. So, what’s your vibe? Are you looking for charming small towns with plenty of comforts or untamed nature and off-the-grid adventure?
Heading North: Riviera Nayarit’s coastal charms
A yoga class with an ocean view? Yes, please! (Pina Messina/Unsplash)
If boutique hotels, oceanfront yoga classes and sipping craft cocktails while browsing funky local boutiques sounds like your ideal getaway, then Riviera Nayarit has your name written all over it. Just a quick drive north of Puerto Vallarta, this stretch of coastline is a haven of small beach towns, each with its own unique flair. It’s perfect for those who want to relax but still have modern conveniences at arm’s reach.
Sayulita: Bohemian bliss
Sorry, Los Cabos! Sayulita is every surfer’s sweetheart. (Vladeta Jericevic/Pexels)
This little town is the darling of Riviera Nayarit, and for good reason. It’s colorful, bohemian and endlessly photogenic. If you’ve ever dreamed of spending your days surfing, sipping fresh coconut water and browsing artisanal markets, Sayulita is where you need to be. It’s got boutique hotels for every budget, restaurants that cater to all tastes (yes, even vegan), and a lively energy that’s downright contagious. Fair warning, though: it’s no longer the best-kept secret it used to be. Weekends can get busy, especially in high season, but if you’re okay with sharing the magic, Sayulita delivers.
San Pancho: Sayulita’s quieter cousin
San Francisco, locally referred to as San Pancho, is just as picturesque and charming as Sayulita. (Visit Nayarit)
If Sayulita feels a bit too buzzy, head 10 minutes north to San Pancho, or San Francisco if we’re being formal. This is where I go when I need to slow down. San Pancho is all about charm and community. You’ll find a handful of boutique hotels, cozy cafes serving up killer coffee and a beach that stretches forever. It’s the kind of place where you can lose track of time — whether you’re strolling the art galleries, chatting with locals, or just soaking up the sun. It’s quieter, more intimate and perfect if you’re craving a slower pace.
Further North: Unspoiled beauty
‘Chacala’ translates from Nahuatl to “where there are shrimp”, and remains a virgin beach in the Nayarit Riviera. (Fairness And Accuracy For All/Wikimedia Commons)
Now, if you really want to get away from it all, keep heading north. The further you go, the more untouched it gets. Towns like Lo de Marcos, Chacala and San Blas feel like they’re a world apart. You won’t find big resorts or fancy restaurants here, but that’s kind of the point. These spots are all about pristine beaches, a slower pace and reconnecting with nature. If you’re okay with fewer services and a more rugged vibe, this is where you’ll find pure serenity.
Going South: Nature’s playground
Now, for my fellow adventurers, let’s talk about heading south. This part of the coast is raw, wild and utterly captivating. It’s for those who don’t mind working a little harder for their paradise – where getting there is half the adventure. The further south you go, the more remote it gets, but the reward? A connection to nature that feels completely unfiltered.
Boca de Tomatlán: Gateway to adventure
Nestled in a small bay about 20 minutes by road south of Puerto Vallarta, Boca de Tomotlán is the departure point for water taxis to other paradisiacal beaches like Las Ánimas, Playa Caballo, Quimixto and Yelapa. (Visit Puerto Vallarta)
About 30 minutes south of Puerto Vallarta, Boca de Tomatlán is where the adventure really begins. This little fishing village is like a portal to hidden treasures. From here, you can hop on a water taxi to reach secluded beaches like Las Animas, Quimixto and Yelapa. These spots are only accessible by boat or on foot, which only adds to the adventure of getting there. Boca itself is unassuming, though it has gotten busier over the years, with fresh seafood shacks and locals going about their day. It’s the perfect jumping-off point for your southern escapade.
Yelapa: A slice of Paradise
Yelapa Beach is bathed by emerald waters with gentle waves, suitable for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. (Visit Puerto Vallarta)
Yelapa, along the Cabo Corrientes, is one of those places that sticks with you long after you leave. Nestled in a quiet cove, it’s only accessible by boat, and honestly, that’s part of the magic. There are no cars here, and it feels like time moves slower. Spend your days hiking to waterfalls, lounging on the beach, or indulging in a slice of the town’s famous homemade pie (trust me, it’s worth the hype). Yelapa isn’t about luxury in the traditional sense, but it’s got a rustic charm that’s impossible to resist.
Beyond Yelapa: The wild coastline
For the truly adventurous, the coastline beyond Yelapa is where things get wild. Think deserted beaches, rugged cliffs and eco-lodges where you’re more likely to see stars than streetlights. Mayto and Tehuamixtle are two of my favorite spots. They’re remote, yes, and the drive to get there is no joke, but once you arrive, it’s nothing short of magical. This is the kind of place where mornings start with the sound of waves and nights end under a blanket of stars. It’s raw, unpolished and absolutely unforgettable.
Costalegre, Barra de Navidad and beyond
For anyone within driving distance, the fiercely wild Costalegre makes a perfect weekend escape.(Costalegre.com)
Further south, you’ll find the Costalegre with its miles of uninterrupted beaches, and Barra de Navidad, a charming town with a laid-back vibe. It’s the perfect spot to soak up local culture, with its cobblestone streets, colorful markets and welcoming community. The lagoon here is great for birdwatching or taking a tranquil boat ride. And if you’re up for more exploring, the nearby beaches of Melaque and La Manzanilla offer even more opportunities to kick back and relax.
Choosing your path
So, what’s it going to be? If you’re drawn to charming small towns with plenty of conveniences, head north. Riviera Nayarit offers that perfect blend of relaxation and modern comforts. But if you’re craving adventure, solitude and a deeper connection to nature, the South is where you need to go. Either way, you’re in for something special. This stretch of Mexico’s Pacific coast has a way of working its magic, no matter which direction you choose. And who knows? You might just find yourself falling in love with both.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com
Is there any snack food more popular worldwide than nachos, Coahuila's perfect, ad-hoc culinary treasure? (Coffeefy Workafe/Unsplash)
Many similarities exist in the history of two iconic Mexican dishes, the Caesar salad and nachos. In both cases, the restaurants where they were created were situated near the U.S. border. In both cases, the restaurateurs were scrambling for ingredients and whipped something up to please visitors from across the border. Both dishes are 100 percent Mexican, but in desiring to appeal to foreign tastes, their creators imbued them with a global appeal and each is now served worldwide.
How nachos came to be
Nachos were created in Piedras Negras in 1943 by someone named — inevitably — Ignacio. Ignacio Anaya García, in this case, was maître d’ at Club Victoria, and one night during World War II he needed something to appeal to the wives of soldiers who were stationed across the border at Eagle Pass, Texas. Unfortunately, the cook wasn’t in the kitchen.
Ignacio Anaya García, the many who invented nachos, as the name might suggest. (Wikimedia Commons)
Anaya’s solution was an elegant one: he layered totopos (tortilla chips), Colby cheese and pickled jalapeños on a platter and popped them in the oven long enough for the cheese to melt: nachos were born. Colby cheese is perhaps a surprising element today, but it wouldn’t have been so to those living in Eagle Pass or Piedras Negras in 1943.
“In Piedras, we used to say that Colby cheese was ‘aid cheese,’” Adalberto Peña de los Santos, director of the Festival International del Nacho, told The New York Times in 2020. “It was one of the ingredients that the U.S. government gave out” during the war and which found its way across the border via the black market.
Nachos were popular from the start, and soon the “Nacho Special” was added to the menu at Club Victoria. Eventually, Anaya started his own restaurant named — you guessed it — Nacho’s.
The Festival International del Nacho
Preparing the world’s largest nacho during the Festival del Nacho in Piedras Negras, Coahuila. (La Rancherita del Aire)
Coahuila, like neighboring Chihuahua and other northern states, is part of Mexico’s cattle country, and beef dishes such as carne asada and discada are popular throughout this region.
However, nachos belong to Coahuila in a way these other dishes don’t, although all are celebrated with festivals. For instance, the carne asada festival is held in Sabinas while the discada festival takes place in the Pueblo Mágico of General Cepeda, with both scheduled annually in March.
Neither of these events draws nearly as many visitors as the 25,000 who show up each October for the Festival del Nacho in Piedras Negras, which held its 29th edition in 2024. This annual showcase of the state’s signature food item features livestock exhibitions, the crowning of a Señorita Turismo, and culinary competitions that range from attempts to make the world’s smallest nachos to the world’s largest. A contest by spectators to consume the greatest quantity of jalapeños is also judged.
It is sometimes but not always celebrated contemporaneously with the International Day of the Nacho on Oct. 21, observed annually since 1995.
Are nachos Tex-Mex or just Mexican?
Coahuila historically owns this dish, but can the U.S. stake a claim too? (Olga Kozanchenko/Unsplash)
It’s an interesting question as there’s no question that nachos were born in Mexico and are a Mexican food dish. However, as chef and author Adán Medrano notes, Tex-Mex is really Coahiltecan cuisine, meaning the food culture that arose in and around San Antonio south down into the northern part of Coahuila, but with origins that predate either Texas or Mexico. Piedras Negras definitely falls within the boundaries where these regional food traditions arose.
A more conventional definition of Tex-Mex is that it combines influences from Texan and Mexican culinary traditions. Whether Wisconsin-made Colby cheese fits into either category is another question entirely, but because it was introduced into regional cuisine during the Second World War the answer seems to be at least a tentative yes.
My own feeling is that nachos are one of the rare foods that fits easily into both Mexican and Tex-Mex culinary cultures and that the dish’s ability to transcend easy categories is one of the secrets to its worldwide success.
The U.S. monstrosity: concession nachos
Many food companies and restaurants in the U.S. have for generations been doing their best to ruin authentic Mexican food. But the quest to transform real ingredients and delicious flavors into something repugnant and unrecognizable reached its zenith with the invention of “concession nachos.”
This alone is justification for tariffs against the United States. (Reddit)
The blame for this monstrosity rests with a Texas businessman named Frank Liberto. Nacho Anaya had passed away by the time Liberto started serving concession nachos at Arlington Stadium, home of Major League Baseball’s Texas Rangers, in 1976. So he wasn’t forced to see his beloved Colby replaced with emulsified cheese so processed that refrigeration is unnecessary and can be pumped straight from a dispenser.
Two years later, in 1978, concession nachos debuted at the Dallas Cowboys stadium and were touted during a Monday Night Football broadcast by Howard Cosell. Before long, they were served at virtually every other sporting venue in the country. Needless to say, however, these aren’t real nachos but a twisted perversion of the original.
Coahuila and the birth of Mexican wine
No discussion of Coahuilan cuisine can exclude the state’s wines. Nachos and wine may not seem like a natural pairing, and they’re not. Beer is a better accompaniment to Nacho Anaya’s creation. But wine is a perfect pairing for Coahuilan beef and has a very long history in the state, dating back to the 16th century and the establishment of a mission at Valle de Parras.
In 1597, thanks to a grant to Don Lorenzo García from King Felipe II of Spain, vineyards were planted at Hacienda San Lorenzo to produce wine and brandy in Valle de Parras in the southern part of Coahuila, 140 miles west of Monterrey. Later renamed Casa Madero, this winery, whose grapes are irrigated by natural springs between the desert and the Sierra Madre Occidental, has been in continuous operation for 427 years, making it not only the oldest in Mexico but in the Americas.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.
