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Tourism Ministry reverses Tulum mayor’s restrictions, re-opens free beach access 

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Tulum beach
The ongoing saga of public beach access in Tulum took a turn toward resolution in recent weeks after the federal Tourism Ministry got involved and forged an agreement enacting Mexico's constitutional right to free public access to its beaches. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuastoscuro.com)

Less than three weeks after the mayor of the Caribbean resort city of Tulum imposed restrictions on access to public beaches, the federal government forged an agreement re-establishing free access for tourists and residents.

On Oct. 12, Mayor Diego Castañón had announced new rules for visitors wishing to sunbathe on the city’s beaches, only two weeks after he said a free-access agreement had been hammered out.

sign for Jaguar Natipnal Park
One of the features of the new agreement is the creation of public access points even within Jaguar Park, a protected area.
(Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro.com)

While insisting he was not suppressing the “free beach access” policy, his new rules prohibited prospective visitors to Tulum’s turquoise waters from bringing food, drinks, coolers and umbrellas. Tourists were also “encouraged” to make purchases at the local businesses. 

Castañón insisted his goal was to boost the city’s sagging economy, exacerbated by a sharp drop in hotel occupancy, and not to monetize the beaches. However, the measures effectively gave beachside hotels and restaurants control over who was granted access.

The reaction was swift. Visitors complained about the added costs and the inconvenience. The outrage voiced on social media garnered significant attention. 

Even President Claudia Sheinbaum waded into the fray, saying on Oct. 16 that Mexico’s beaches “should not be limited to those with economic resources.”

Oddly enough, little attention was drawn to the fact that just over five years ago, a bill guaranteeing free access to all Mexican beaches was signed into law

Hotel owners were even cautioned by the government that not only do they risk fines of up to 1 million pesos (US $53,700), but their properties also could be closed and demolished for restricting access to public beaches.

A few days after Castañón’s Oct. 12 announcement, the federal Tourism Ministry (Sectur) convened a Strategic Actions Coordination Committee for Tulum to address the situation which has been complicated by the recent opening of Jaguar National Park

In addition to lookout towers, forest trails and a museum full of Maya artifacts, the newly created natural reserve encompasses protected beaches, reducing the amount of coveted beach-front property in Tulum.

The committee — composed of local, state and federal officials as well as tourism providers — met in Mexico City but also toured local sites in Tulum and carried out surveys.

On Tuesday, Tourism Minister Josefina Rodríguez said the objective to guarantee free access to Tulum’s beaches for Mexicans and foreigners year-round had been achieved.

One access point was opened Wednesday and two new public access points have been established in the Hotel Zone. Additionally, Rodríguez said, public access points will be created within Jaguar National Park.

Finally, a new, unified pricing structure for visitors to Jaguar National Park and the Tulum Archaeological Zone — in effect through December — should provide a boost to Tulum’s economy. 

With reports from El Financiero and Riviera Maya News

Irate Pueblo Mágico residents tie up public officials over uncollected trash, lack of water

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Protesters and uncollected trash in EL Oro
Townspeople of El Oro, México state, erupted in protest this week over the ongoing accumulation of uncollected trash in their Pueblo Mágico. (Screenshot/social media video)

Anger over water shortages, uncollected garbage and “ungovernability” boiled over this week in El Oro, a mountain town and Pueblo Mágico in México state where dozens of residents tied up at least two municipal officials and demanded the removal of Mayor Juana Díaz Peñaloza.

Protests erupted Wednesday after five days without water service and two weeks without trash pickup — leading to overflowing piles of garbage across the colonial mining town close to the border with Michoacán, a three-hour drive from Mexico City.

Declaring El Oro to be in “a state of complete chaos,” municipal trustee Ubaldo Velázquez Piedra traveled along with a majority of city council members to the state capital of Toluca to demand the removal of Mayor Juana Elizabeth Díaz Peñaloza. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro.com)

Demonstrators also accused Díaz, a member of the Morena party elected in 2024, of diverting public funds and withholding workers’ pay.

Witnesses said the chaos began outside the Municipal Palace when residents confronted Public Services Director José Aarón Velázquez and a state government liaison about the lack of garbage collection.

After Velázquez failed to respond, protesters tied him with a rope and forced him to sign his resignation “for incompetence.” Moments later, the state government rep attempting to mediate was bound to a post.

The newspaper El Sol de Toluca didn’t report that any other officials were restrained, but news outlets such as Animal Político and La Jornada reported that five officials were tied up, and other sources cited four.


Also, “a group of protesters threw a truckload of garbage in front of the mayor’s private residence as an act of harassment and intimidation,” the municipal government said in a statement posted on Facebook, denouncing the incidents as “an expression of violence that violates human rights, public order and the rule of law.”

In response to the post, one citizen replied, “With all due respect, I think it’s important to point out that the mayor hasn’t addressed the community regarding any of the problems we’ve faced. We haven’t had drinking water for days, the garbage hasn’t been collected for weeks, and the authorities have remained silent in the face of every problem.”

The protests occurred amid a strike by municipal sanitation and water agency employees who say they have gone unpaid for weeks.

Moreover, protesters said that only one of the municipality’s three garbage trucks has been operational, with the other two sidelined by lack of fuel and maintenance, exacerbating the problems.

“We are tired of living among garbage and without water,” said one community member. “There is no response from anyone.”

Ubaldo Velázquez Piedra, the municipal trustee, said the town is in “a state of complete chaos.”

On Tuesday, Velázquez Piedra and six of seven city council members submitted a formal request to the State of México Congress seeking Díaz’s removal, accusing her of creating “conditions of ungovernability” and citing budgetary irregularities and unreported revenue from tourist attractions.

“The mayor is just hiding, refusing to face the music,” wrote one person on Facebook. “The shameless woman should face the consequences she herself is creating.”

State prosecutors said they have opened an investigation into the events and the alleged crimes committed during the protests.

The municipal administration remained silent about the citizens’ demands, but legislative leaders said that local lawmakers cannot directly remove a mayor — although they may forward evidence to the state government for review.

In response to fears of further clashes, the National Guard was deployed to El Oro to protect public buildings and keep order. The town of El Oro de Hidalgo has about 6,000 residents, while the Del Oro municipality has a population of roughly 37,000.

With reports from El Sol de Toluca, La Jornada and Animal Politico

Aeroméxico goes public five years after filing for bankruptcy

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An Aeromexico plane flying
Between the IPO and private stock sales, Aeroméxico has raised roughly US $300 million. (Aeroméxico)

Mexican airline Aeroméxico has executed an initial public offering (IPO) on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE), and returned to the Mexican Stock Exchange (BMV) after an absence of almost three years.

The airline — which emerged from bankruptcy protection in 2022 — raised around US $300 million from its IPO and private placement, the Bloomberg news agency reported on Thursday.

Aeroméxico’s American depositary shares (ADRs), backed by the New York-based asset management firm Apollo Global Management, opened at $19.16 each on the NYSE on Thursday, up from the IPO price of $19.

Each ADR — of which there are 11.72 million — is worth 10 common Aeroméxico shares.

Bloomberg reported that the NYSE opening price on Thursday gives Mexico’s flag carrier “a market value of about $2.8 billion, based on the outstanding shares listed in its filings.”

In Mexico, Aeroméxico returned to the BMV on Thursday, close to three years after it exited that stock exchange. Almost 27.5 million common shares at a price of 35.34 pesos (US $1.90) each make up the “Mexican offering,” Aeroméxico said in a statement.

Listed under the ticker symbol AERO, the shares increased in value by more than 2% over their initial offering price in Thursday morning trading on the BMV.

Aeroméxico’s IPO on the NYSE and return to the BMV represent a major milestone for the airline.

The IPO and re-listing come more than five years after the airline filed for bankruptcy protection in the United States amid the global downturn in air travel that occurred during the COVID pandemic. Aeroméxico, founded as Aeronaves de México in 1934, continued flying during and after its bankruptcy proceedings.

Who did and didn’t buy Aeroméxico shares?

Bloomberg reported that U.S.-based Par Investment Partners LP bought $25 million worth of shares in a private placement at $1.805 per common share, a 5% discount on the IPO price.

Aeroméxico said that Delta Air Lines, “a current shareholder and Aeroméxico’s long-term strategic business partner, did not participate in the Global Offering and entered into a four-year lock-up agreement.”

The global offering refers to the IPO on the NYSE and the re-listing on the BMV.

US Department of Transportation orders Delta-Aeroméxico alliance to end Jan. 1

Aeroméxico said that it “expects the gross proceeds of the primary component of the Global Offering and the Concurrent Private Placement to be approximately US$178.8 million, before deducting discounts and commissions of underwriters of the International Offering and the Mexican Offering.”

Additional shares will be offered on the NYSE and the BMV in a “secondary offering.”

Aeroméxico said that it “intends to use a portion of the net proceeds from the primary component of the Global Offering and the Concurrent Private Placement for general corporate purposes, including payments in connection with the expansion of its fleet, investments in customer experience infrastructure, and fleet maintenance obligations.”

In September, the U.S. government ordered Delta and Aeroméxico to end their nearly decade-old joint venture by Jan. 1, 2026, due to an alleged “unfair advantage” they enjoy over competitors. The two airlines are challenging that order.

More Mexican IPOs in the US?

Bloomberg reported on Wednesday that Aeroméxico’s “long-awaited IPO may be the latest sign that the Latin American country’s recently moribund equity capital markets are picking up steam.”

The news agency noted that the IPO was “delayed last year amid broader market uncertainty in the wake of elections” in Mexico “and constitutional reforms on President Claudia Sheinbaum’s agenda.”

“That same government, and its approach to private investment, is potentially paving the way for a more market-friendly environment after Mexico has seen more delistings than IPOs in recent years,” Bloomberg wrote.

The Sheinbaum administration is aiming to boost private investment in Mexico as part of its ambitious Plan México economic initiative.

Sheinbaum wants to make Mexico 10th largest economy in the world with ‘Plan México’

Bradesco analyst Rodolfo Ramos told Bloomberg that “the conditions for IPOs are starting to be much more favorable” compared to “the last six, seven years,” a period that includes the presidency of Andrés Manuel López Obrador, considered less amiable to private investment than Sheinbaum.

In July, real estate investment company Fibra Next completed Mexico’s largest IPO in seven years.

Juan Francisco Méndez, a partner at New York-based law firm Simpson Thacher & Bartlett, told Bloomberg that there could be a “handful of more IPOs from Mexico over the next six to 18 months,” presumably on the NYSE.

His law firm “has seen interest and in some cases preparatory work for transactions in 2026 and 2027,” Bloomberg reported.

“Those deals are in retail, following BBB Foods Inc.’s IPO [on the NYSE] in 2024, infrastructure and real estate, amid Mexico’s need for development and a renewed interest in nearshoring,” the news agency wrote.

With reports from Bloomberg 

Central Mexico reservoirs start November at nearly 100% full, their highest level in 10 years

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The Valle de Bravo dam, with a full reservoir behind it
The Valle de Bravo reservoir, part of the Cutzamala system that provides water to Mexico City, was 93% full when this photo was taken in mid-October. It is now at over 98% capacity. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

Sixteen months after warnings that Mexico City was on the verge of a water crisis, the Cutzamala System of dams and reservoirs is above 97% capacity, its highest level in 10 years.

During this week’s National Water Commission (Conagua) Hydraulic Works committee meeting, officials confirmed that the critical water supply system nearly reached maximum water capacity as the year’s hydrological cycle came to a close.

Historic rains lead to record reservoir capacity

a woman gets caught in the rain in Oaxaca
Record-breaking rains over the summer topped up central Mexico’s dwindling reserves of water. (Carolina Jiménez/Cuartoscuro)

Although the rainy season is winding down, Mexico in general and central Mexico in particular saw historic rainfall this year. A record 220 million cubic meters of water fell on Mexico City in  June, and an Aug. 10 downpour (the biggest on record since 1952) caused historic flooding in the capital, only to be topped a month later when 34 million cubic meters of water inundated Mexico City once again.

Citlalli Peraza, director of the Valley of Mexico Basin Water Agency, said that water levels are unlikely to rise even if additional rainfall occurs. “The system has reached a neutral point,” she said, adding that a gradual decline will occur until next year’s rainy season begins.

Water management specialists project that the Cutzamala’s current storage levels should ensure water supply stability through 2027. Even so, Conagua officials called on residents in the Valley of Mexico to use water responsibly to preserve the current advantage.

The Cutzamala System comprises a network of canals, pipelines, tunnels, dams, reservoirs, treatment plants and storage tanks to supply water to the Mexico City metropolitan area, which includes the capital of México state, Toluca, about 70 kilometers to the west.

Considered one of the largest civil engineering works in the world, water is pumped from an altitude of 1,600 meters above sea level at its lowest point to 2,702 meters at its highest point. 

Peraza said the system’s three principal dams — El Bosque, Valle de Bravo and Villa Victoria — begin the new hydrological cycle at 97.4% capacity, roughly 762.08 million cubic meters of stored water. Last year at this time, storage stood at 523.63 million cubic meters, or 67%.

In the 20 weeks after May 25, Peraza said the Cutzamala System recovered 385.22 million cubic meters of water, lifting supplies from a historic low of 30% capacity in June of last year to a five-year high in August and on to the current near maximum amplitude.

Across Mexico, heavy rainfall caused severe floods and landslides this year, killing at least 76 people in October alone. The high rates of precipitation saw 75 of Mexico’s 210 largest reservoirs reach 100% capacity last month.

Reservoirs in Northern Mexico are at a lower capacity

However, reservoirs in Northern Mexico, which are the source of an ongoing Mexico-U.S. water management crisis, are at low depth. The Falcon Reservoir, which straddles the Texas-Mexico border, is at 15% capacity, La Boquilla Dam in the state of Chihuahua was at 38% capacity and the Amistad Reservoir — which also straddles the Mexico-Texas border — is at 36% capacity.

With reports from Milenio, Excelsior, N+ and La Jornada

17-year-old meth addict identified as Uruapan mayor’s assassin

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Michoacán authorities used facial recognition identify the alleged shooter of Carlos Manzo, left, as 17-year-old Víctor Manuel Ubaldo Vidales, at right. (Cuartoscuro, Fiscalia Michoacán)

The person who was shot dead after allegedly killing the mayor of Uruapan, Michoacán, last Saturday has been identified as a 17-year-old boy from an adjacent municipality.

Michoacán Attorney General Carlos Torres Piña said in a video message on Thursday that on Wednesday afternoon the body of “the perpetrator” of the murder of Mayor Carlos Alberto Manzo Rodríguez was identified and claimed by members of his family.

mural os slain Uruapan mayor.
Uruapan artists created a mural in honor of slain Mayor Carlos Manzo, seen as a martyr by many across the nation.
(Michangoona/X)

He identified the alleged murderer as Víctor Manuel Ubaldo Vidales, a 17-year-old youth from Paracho, a municipality that borders Uruapan. Ubaldo was shot dead by a municipal police officer shortly after he allegedly opened fire on the mayor, who had a security detail that also included members of the National Guard.

Torres said that the family of Ubaldo acknowledged that he left his home a week before Manzo was shot in Uruapan’s central square while officiating a Day of the Dead event last Saturday night.

Two other people were arrested in connection with the crime, which triggered protests in various parts of Michoacán and prompted the federal government to develop a “peace and justice” plan for the state, one of Mexico’s most violent.

Torres said that the identification of Ubaldo “allows us to continue making progress” in the investigation into the murder of Manzo.

He said that a sodium rhodizonate test, which detects the presence of lead, was carried out on Ubaldo’s body and came back positive, “confirming the hypothesis” that he was the perpetrator of the murder of Manzo, an independent mayor and outspoken anti-crime crusader.

Torres also said that authorities had determined that Ubaldo was addicted to methamphetamine. He said that the boy’s family had confirmed that finding.

The attorney general said that “advances in acts of investigation and intelligence have allowed us to determine that … more than two people participated” in the crime against Manzo.

The homicide, he added, “is related to organized crime groups.”

Torres didn’t name any group, but the Milenio newspaper reported that it “was able to confirm with sources that investigations point toward the Jalisco New Generation Cartel.” That organization’s alleged plaza chief in Uruapan was arrested by municipal police in August.

Outspoken anti-crime mayor assassinated in Uruapan, Michoacán’s second-largest city

Torres noted that “the investigation work” into Manzo’s murder is being carried out in “a coordinated way between federal and state authorities.”

He said authorities will “continue informing citizens” about the progress in the investigation and pledged that the crime won’t go unpunished.

Manzo, 40, had been mayor of Uruapan since September 2024, and had urged President Claudia Sheinbaum to ramp up the fight against organized crime. On Wednesday, his wife, Grecia Quiroz, was sworn in as his replacement.

In the past 25 years, 119 mayors and mayors-elect have been murdered in Mexico, according to a count by the El Universal newspaper. Twenty of the victims were killed in Michoacán.

With reports from Milenio and Sin Embargo 

Mazatlán’s cruise ship season ramps up with 18 arrivals planned for November

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Cruise ship docked in Mazatlán
Over 300,000 visitors have already arrived in Mazatlán this year by cruise ship. (Visit Mazatlán/Instagram)

Mazatlán is gearing up for an intense cruise season in November with 18 scheduled arrivals that will consolidate the port as one of the most attractive tourist destinations on the Mexican Pacific coast. Meanwhile, December is expected to bring 21 cruise ships to the port city. 

The busiest days are expected to be Nov. 12 and 26, when the port will receive three ships simultaneously.

Mazatlán, Sinaloa beachside cliffs
A seaside esplanade along the Mazatlán malecón. (Jaime Florian/Unsplash)

Mazatlán’s economy benefits from cruise ship arrivals

To kick off the season, the Royal Princess arrived on Tuesday with 3,626 passengers. Other cruise ships the port is expected to receive include Royal Princess, Norwegian Jade, Carnival Panorama, Nieuw Amsterdam, Navigator of the Seas, Norwegian Bliss, Ruby Princess and Discovery Princess.

Mazatlán, a coastal city known for its seafood and banda music, has experienced a steady flow of cruise ships throughout the year. Cruise passengers are drawn to this coastal destination for its diverse cuisine, varied beaches and a range of rural and cultural tours in the region. 

Between January and October, Mazatlán welcomed 83 cruise ships carrying over 308,000 visitors. According to the State Tourism Secretariat, cruise ship tourism has contributed 486 million pesos (US $26 million) to the local economy.

The large influx of tourists in the city is expected to reactivate the local economy, after the severe impact of the security crisis that gripped the region earlier this year. The violence led to a 25% drop in tourism occupancy and significant job losses, directly affecting hoteliers, restaurateurs, transportation providers and the entire service sector. 

Security crisis continues to loom over cruise ship season

However, experts and business organizations warn that the arrival of cruise ships, while positive, does not yet fully compensate for the loss of tourists due to the perception of risk.

Francisca Cázares, president of the National Chamber of Commerce (Canaco) in Mazatlán, explained to the magazine Revista Espejo that since the beginning of the security crisis in September 2024, the city’s tourism sector has had to adapt its business strategies to cater to lower socioeconomic levels than usual. For instance, he noted that the decline in hotel demand has led the tourism industry to lower room rates by as much as 40%.

Furthermore, the crisis has caused a significant drop in the performance of 5-star hotels, which recorded their lowest results of the year in August, according to Sectur. 

With this scenario, experts predict that recovery will take time and require further adaptations.

With reports from Punto MX, Noroeste, Revista Espejo and El Sol de Mazatlán

It’s cold outside: Mexico’s traditional warm drinks fight off fall’s chill

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A woman closes her eyes, enjoying the aroma of a traditional Mexican warm drink in a beautiful blue and white Talavera-style ceramic mug.
When it's chilly out, fight the cold with these Mexican drinks that feel like a warm hug. (Luis Merlos Vega/Pexels)

Tamales oaxaqueños, tamales calientitos.” That’s the anthem Mexico sings with the arrival of the chilly weather, and Mexico City is no exception. In the nation’s capital, misty dawns and soft, cold morning breezes are now a daily occurrence. What better way to greet the chilly season than with drinks that’ll warm you, body and soul?

Here’s our list of what we think are the best traditional Mexican warm drinks of the season — and some of the best places to find them in Mexico City.

A Mexican food vendor in a cowboy hat and mask pours a ladleful of a thick, white traditional Mexican warm drink known as atole, into a large metal pot at a food festival.
Atole is a millennia-old Indigenous drink that Mexicans still crave today, especially on chilly autumn mornings. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)

Atole

Mexican grandmothers everywhere know that rice atole is the cure for an upset belly. It has long been a classic remedy for everything from stomach ailments to a serious hangover. 

In addition to being part of ancient folk wisdom, atole is a favorite warming beverage for Mexicans on foggy November mornings. You can find it in every flavor, from strawberry to guava — on the sweeter side — to chile atole, a saltier version made with chiles and corn. 

Get up early enough just about anywhere in Mexico, and you’ll find locals stopping at their favorite downtown street vendor on their way to pick up an atole — and maybe a tamal — as their breakfast on the go. Or, if you’re lucky enough, a man on a bike will ride near your home early in the morning with a big barrel full of atole in the seasonal flavor of their choice. Then you can have the ultimate cozy experience as you sip it at home, while watching an even cozier movie. You can thank me later. 

Champurrado

A mug of the thick, rich, traditional Mexican warm drink known as champurrado. It is served in an artisan clay mug with a cinnamon stick and stands next to to a Mexican wooden molinillo whisk.
Don’t miss the chance to have your champurrado with a nice, massive guajolota, also known as the torta de tamal. (Agriculture and Rural Development Ministry)

Champurrado is a specific kind of atole — the best kind, actually. Typically served in a small pewter or clay mug, this drink is a must for those who want the full seasonal experience. 

Described by Mexico’s Agriculture and Rural Development Ministry as “very delicious and nutritious,” this warm winter drink is a mixture of masa harina and chocolate. In some states, such as Oaxaca, champurrado is prepared with water. However, in Mexico City, it’s typically prepared with milk. 

While you can usually find champurrado at any street tamal stand early in the morning, vendors also sell it at night, around dinnertime — which in Mexico is around 8 p.m., — and early in the morning, as a heart-warming breakfast for busy passersby. 

Café de olla

A Mexican food vendor in a cowboy hat and mask pours a ladleful of a thick, white traditional Mexican warm drink known as atole, into a large metal pot at a food festival.
No, sorry: Instant coffee with piloncillo doesn’t count as café de olla. (Maira Tulia Pérez Bocanegra/Cuartoscuro)

Unlike the classic (and somewhat boring by comparison) black coffee, this Mexican coffee delicacy is prepared in a clay pot. During the brewing process, piloncillo is added. Even if you’re accustomed to taking your coffee with milk or cream, don’t add it to cafe de olla; it’s practically sacrilege, and it’ll spoil the taste anyway. And you don’t need it; unlike regular black coffee, cafe de olla is not at all bitter. It has a homey flavor that just feels ideal for Mexico City’s cold season.

If you’re an early bird like me, you should totally plan a morning visit to Coyoacán’s iconic Mercado de Antojitos, right in the heart of the borough’s colonial area. No one prepares café de olla better than the merchants there. You can enjoy yours with a classic concha de nata or a fantastic, sweet tamal dulce.

Rompope

A bottle of creamy yellow, almond-flavored rompope liqueur sits on a silver tray with six shot glasses, representing the commercialized version of this traditional Mexican holiday staple that's often drunk warm during the winter.
Rompope, originally created by a convent in Puebla, can be bought under a variety of brand names in liquor stores and supermarkets, or get an even better homemade version at your local mercado. (Pamela Oropeza Ortiz/Wikimedia Commons)

Originally from 17th-century Puebla city, rompope is one of the best traditional warm drinks to enjoy as the year draws to a close. According to the federal consumer agency Profeco, rompope comes in just after mezcal and sotol as Mexico’s favorite traditional alcoholic beverage. 

This drink can be enjoyed as an aperitif or, depending on the custom of each household, even as a dessert, because it is sweet and can be made in various flavors. Around this time of year, people at social events often take it warm just before dinner, a bit like a before-dinner cocktail.

While the classic version of rompope — which is not unlike eggnog, but thicker — is available in most liquor stores and supermarkets, you can find more adventurous flavors at your closest local mercado, where they’ll add things like pine nuts, coffee, strawberries or pistachios. If you’re into tastings, you can head straight to the Roma/Condesa area in Mexico City and have several samples at Alakazam, a chic spot for signature cuisine and cocktails.

Ponche

A colorful hand-painted clay mug (jarrito) filled with Ponche Navideño, one of Mexico's best-loved traditional Mexican warm drinks for Christmas, is garnished with a slice of fruit and a cinnamon stick, surrounded by tejocotes and guavas.
Ponche, like most of these traditional warm Mexican drinks, can be found year-round, but they just hit different when the misty November days arrive. (Agriculture and Rural Development Ministry)

Featuring tamarind, piloncillo, guava, cinnamon, plum, tejocote and hibiscus flower,  Mexican ponche is a perfect representation of the nation’s biodiversity. Although fruit punch is a traditional drink made for Christmas Day, these days, you can find it at any food vendor’s stand by early November. 

This warm seasonal drink is usually enjoyed in a tiny clay mug. However, if you’re buying yours on the street, the vendor will probably offer you a Styrofoam cup.

If eating in the street is not exactly your thing, try ponche at any Sanborns store. Given that Mexicans are eating pan de muerto all year long nowadays, feel free to enjoy your traditional ponche with a piece of that wonderfully fluffy seasonal bread this November!

Andrea Fischer contributes to the features desk at Mexico News Daily. She has edited and written for National Geographic en Español and Muy Interesante México, and continues to be an advocate for anything that screams science. Or yoga. Or both.

36 hours in Cuernavaca: How to make the most of your next getaway

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Cuernavaca
Only 90 minutes from Mexico City, Cuernavaca is the perfect weekend getaway. (Cuernavaca Gobierno Municipal)

Amidst the chaotic center of Mexico, there’s a hidden oasis that welcomes everyone willing to rest for a few days … or years. The trees that give name to the city (Cuernavaca comes from the Náhuatl Cuauhnahuac, meaning “among trees”) are the perfect scenery for a break from the rush of Mexico’s overwhelming metropolis.

Escaping the city for a weekend can be the perfect excuse for a trip with friends or a romantic getaway with your partner. Just an hour and a half from Mexico City, Cuernavaca offers the perfect setting to leave behind — if only for a while — the traffic and rush, and reconnect with art and nature.

A getaway to Cuernavaca is not for everyone. You need to slow down, give the birds of the area a chance to be heard and let your skin tan in the (almost) permanent sun that this part of Mexico offers. And, when you are done unwinding, you can let yourself discover the cherry-picked collection of art its inhabitants have brought and created. Here’s how to make the most of your next visit to the “City of Eternal Spring.”

Day One

Parque Estatal Urbano Barranca de Chapultepec
This state park is a great way to reconnect with nature and should be one of your first stops upon arrival in Cuernavaca. (Parque Barranca Chapultepec)

8 a.m. – Villa Vivaldi

If you leave early, start your morning at one of Cuernavaca’s most beloved restaurants: Villa Vivaldi. The place welcomes you with a charming local atmosphere — you’ll be surrounded by lush greenery on its open terrace while enjoying authentic Mexican breakfast dishes. Even if you’re not into sweet breakfasts, don’t skip their pastries. They’re the house specialty.

Where? Pericón 102, Miraval.

10 a.m. – Parque Estatal Urbano Barranca de Chapultepec

To truly disconnect from everyday stress, there’s nothing like immersing yourself in nature. Visiting the Barranca de Chapultepec Urban State Park is the perfect plan to take the word “getaway” seriously.

Where? Bjd. de Chapultepec 27, Chapultepec.

2 p.m. – La Panga

Let’s be honest: great seafood is a hit anywhere. If you love the flavors of the sea, head to La Panga after a morning of exploration. Their shrimp broth and grilled octopus are exactly what you need to refuel after a long walk.

Where? Avenida Río Mayo 1, Altavista.

4 p.m. – La Tallera

To add a cultural touch to your day, visit La Tallera — the art space designed by famed muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros. This contemporary art museum was originally his personal workshop and now exhibits painting, sculpture and audiovisual art. When Siqueiros began its construction, he called it “a mother that gives birth to art,” which is why its name is in the feminine form.

Where? Venus 52, Jardines de Cuernavaca.

7 p.m. – La Verdad Sospechosa

Ending the day with a drink in hand is a must. Your last stop: La Verdad Sospechosa, a cozy speakeasy in downtown Cuernavaca. Their signature cocktails are exceptional, and their food menu perfectly complements them.

Where? Juan Ruiz de Alarcón 13 PB, Cuernavaca Centro.

The next day

Mercado Adolfo López Mateos, Cuernavaca
The best breakfasts in Cuernavaca are found at its central market. (Visit Mexico)

10 a.m. – Mercado Central

To truly get to know a place, you have to taste it — and there’s no better place to do that than the local market. Here you’ll find colorful fruit stands and the best traditional breakfasts in town. From tacos acorazados to pancita, having breakfast at Mercado Central is an absolute must when visiting Cuernavaca.

Where? Adolfo López Mateos 1319, Cuernavaca Centro.

Noon – Museo Morelense de Arte Contemporáneo (MMAC) Juan Soriano

The Juan Soriano Museum of Contemporary Art has a garden you’ll never forget — because it’s filled with sculptures. Between its art-filled galleries and peaceful library, this museum ensures you’ll want to return to Cuernavaca just to experience it again.

Where? Dr. A. Nápoles Gandara, Amatitlán.

2 p.m. – Museo Robert Brady

Like any true collector, Robert Brady was a lover of art in all its forms. Throughout his life, he traveled the world collecting pieces until he fell in love with Cuernavaca in the 1960s and bought Casa de la Torre, now the Robert Brady Museum, which preserves his full collection. Inside, you’ll find pre-Hispanic, Asian and African artifacts — and if you love modern art, you’ll be thrilled to see works by Frida Kahlo and Rufino Tamayo.

Where? Nezahualcóyotl 4, Cuernavaca Centro.

4 p.m. – Bule Restaurante

This restaurant’s concept revolves around clay. Large clay jars greet you at the entrance, and all dishes are served in handmade clay plates. Their traditional Mexican cuisine is the perfect way to wrap up your trip through Morelos, though the flavors will definitely make you want to come back.

Where? Matamoros 603, Cuernavaca Centro.

6 p.m. – Heladería Mil 800

You can’t say goodbye to Cuernavaca without trying the ice cream at Mil 800. Located on a terrace near the Cathedral, this local favorite changes its flavors seasonally — and every single one is unforgettable. You can also order your ice cream as a milkshake or a decadent affogato.

Where? Comonfort 2, Cuernavaca Centro.

Lydia Leija is a linguist, journalist, and visual storyteller. She has directed three feature films, and her audiovisual work has been featured in national and international media. She’s been part of National Geographic, Muy Interesante, and Cosmopolitan.

 

When it comes to US intervention, ‘Mexico is nobody’s piñata,’ Sheinbaum says: Wednesday’s mañanera recapped

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Sheinbaum at the podium of a press conference
Sheinbaum discussed her high October approval rating and U.S. relations on Wednesday. (Juan Carlos Buenrostro/Presidencia)

Early in her Wednesday morning press conference, President Claudia Sheinbaum addressed an incident on Tuesday in which she was inappropriately touched by a man while she was walking in the historic center of Mexico City.

Later in the mañanera, she responded to a question about a range of U.S. government actions that have a direct — and negative — impact on Mexico.

Among other issues, Sheinbaum spoke about the results of a poll that showed that her approval rating remains high early in the second year of her six-year term.

‘Mexico is nobody’s piñata’ 

A reporter put it to the president that it appears that the United States doesn’t want Mexico to “do well” given that the Trump administration has imposed tariffs on Mexican products, closed the southern border to Mexican cattle due to the risk of screwworm infection and revoked approval for 13 routes operated by Mexican airlines to the U.S.

Sheinbaum first said that “there will be groups there” — i.e. in the United States — “that don’t like Mexico.”

However, she then highlighted that “all the countries of the world” have been affected by actions of the second Trump administration, especially its protectionist policies.

Angry Trump
Sheinbaum said that while most countries have been affected by Trump administration tariffs, many Mexican products can still be exported to the U.S. tariff-free. (Gage Skidmore CC BY 2.0)

“If the tariffs were only a thing for Mexico, there would be an issue against Mexico,” Sheinbaum said before noting that “a lot” of Mexican products can still be exported tariff-free to the United States thanks to the USMCA trade pact.

Around 80% of Mexico’s exports to the U.S. are not subject to tariffs, according to the Mexican government. Consequently, Mexico is in a better position vis-à-vis trade with the U.S. than most other countries around the world.

“Practically no country” can export the majority of their goods to the U.S. tariff-free, Sheinbaum said.

“They all have a tariff, even if it’s just 10%,” she said.

Sheinbaum also noted that her government is continuing to negotiate with its U.S. counterpart with the aim of getting a better deal on the tariffs that currently apply to Mexican steel, aluminum and vehicles.

With regard to “the screwworm issue, what we have to do is demonstrate that there is no risk,” the president said.

The United States border has been closed to Mexican cattle and certain other livestock for months because a number of New World screwworm cases have been detected in Mexico.

During a trip to Mexico this week, U.S. Agriculture Secretary Brooke Rollins told Reuters that “we’re still not at the point where I am comfortable opening the ports, but I think every day that goes by we get a little bit closer.”

She said that Mexican officials have taken the screwworm issue “very seriously,” and declared that she was “very impressed” with Sheinbaum.

However, she also said that there had been 11 cases of screwworm in Mexican states that border the U.S. in recent months, although all of those cases were contained and treated.

Sheinbaum said that Rollins told her that there was a “very serious” screwworm problem in Mexico and the United States 50 years ago, and it took 10 years to recover from it.

She said that the United States’ caution with regard to reopening the border to Mexican livestock is related to not wanting U.S. cattle to be infected with screwworm rather than “an issue related to Mexico.”

“But in any case, we say that if there is any intention [to harm Mexico], … Mexico is nobody’s piñata and Mexico must be respected,” Sheinbaum said.

‘You don’t govern for polls, you govern for people’

After noting that a recent poll conducted for the El Economista newspaper detected a 71.5% approval rating for the president, a reporter asked Sheinbaum “what factors” have been “decisive” in influencing people’s opinions about her government.

Sheinbaum cited “consistency” and “not distancing oneself from the people.”

She subsequently noted that polls yield their own results about what makes her government popular, the most notable of which is the provision of financial support for Mexican people via a range of welfare programs.

While Sheinbaum is no doubt happy to be assessed in a positive light by a majority of Mexicans — even as the country faces major challenges, including insecurity — she stressed that “you don’t govern for polls, you govern for the people.”

“And while we remain close to the people and fulfilling our commitments, the people will recognize it,” she said.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies (peter.davies@mexiconewsdaily.com)

It’s b-a-a-a-ck! Sargassum makes a surprise late-season return in Cancún

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Cancún beach
Some beaches at Cancún, shown here during the summer when sargassum was a common sight, experienced a return of the noxious seaweed, though it was cleared away quickly by municipal crews and hotel personnel. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro.com)

Just as experts thought Mexico’s 2025 sargassum season was over, the seaweed came back with a vengeance, covering beaches in Cancún once again, local authorities reported on Monday. 

Seaweed washed up mainly between kilometers 1 and 3 of Cancún’s Hotel Zone, as well as on Playa del Niño in Puerto Juárez, according to the director of municipal public services, José Antonio de la Torre. The problem seemed limited to those areas, and municipal crews kept watch on other beaches in the city to prevent the further spread of the sargassum.

men working in seaweed off the coast
Sargassum has multiplied in recent decades as sea temperatures rise. Besides being unsightly, the decomposing seaweed releases fumes that can cause respiratory irritation. Pictured: A government beach cleanup in June. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

The late wash-up took authorities by surprise because experts had announced a likely end to Mexico’s sargassum season in October, as colder weather was expected to lower sea temperatures and prevent seaweed arrivals. 

 “The currents are changing … moving north, the southeasterly winds have decreased and there’s very little sargassum in the sea now,” Esteban Amaro, director of the Quintana Roo Sargassum Monitoring System, said in early October. “Arrivals have dropped significantly in the past two weeks, suggesting the season is almost over.”

Nature, however, had other ideas. 

Though cooler temperatures were expected to help, the arrival of polar air, along with northerly wind and high waves, created conditions for more seaweed to wash up along the Mexican coast. 

The experts may have been surprised but the clean-up crews seemed well-prepared. They used light machinery and trucks to transport the sargassum to the authorized site for final disposal.

Coordination with hotel owners made it possible to carry out cleanup efforts quickly and effectively during off-peak hours, allowing tourists and locals to use the beaches without major sensory or health issues.

“The cleanup operation began in the early morning to prevent accumulations and unpleasant odors in recreational areas and hotels,” stated De la Torre

The municipality is now expected to close the season with over 16,500 tons of sargassum collected, far higher than the 2024 level of 3,000 tons, De la Torre reported. The increase has been attributed to climate variations and changes in ocean currents.

With reports from Reportur