Modern life, particularly in urban areas, has transformed our routines, traditions, and, notably, our culinary practices. In cities like Mexico City, where residents typically spend an average of two hours commuting to work, breakfast often consists of whatever is affordable, delicious, and convenient. This usually means picking up a pan dulce and a coffee on the go.
The popularity of coffee in Mexico is relatively recent. Coffee cultivation began in 1790, primarily with exports to the United States and Europe. Locally, coffee consumption was mainly limited to the wealthiest families and workers on coffee plantations. At that time, there were very few coffee shops in the country, which were frequented by men looking to socialize, discuss current events, and conduct business and politics. In these cafés, hot cocoa and coffee with milk were served, and some also functioned as cantinas.
Coffee wasn’t a beverage that the majority of the population consumed. In fact, the poor working conditions for laborers on coffee plantations, combined with poorly planned large-scale exports, played a role in the Mexican Revolution. However, we can discuss that another time, as we take little sips to our cups of coffee.
It wasn’t until the 1950s, with the introduction of instant coffee, that coffee became a staple breakfast beverage for most Mexicans. Before that time, most Mexicans started their day with a hot atole.
If life gives you corn, learn to make a thousand and one things out of it
The history of atole dates back 9,000 years, while the dominance of coffee has only lasted a bit less than 100 years — a blink in comparison! The story of atole begins with the indigenous peoples of this region, who discovered how to nixtamalize corn. This process involves soaking and grinding corn kernels with lime to create the dough, the masa, which is used for tortillas, tamales, atoles, and other dishes that require corn dough.
View this post on Instagram
In Nahuatl, atole translates to “water you eat.” This beverage is made by cooking water and the masa over a flame in a clay or metal pot while continuously stirring until the mixture thickens. The result is known as the original atole, or atole blanco (white atole). By itself, it is rather bland and serves as a base for various flavored atoles. Over the centuries, countless recipes have been developed to incorporate flavors such as cacao, cacao husks, a variety of fruits, hazelnuts, cinnamon, anise, vanilla, honey, rice, and even flowers like orange blossom or bougainvillea. There are also savory atoles made with beans or chiles considered as the main course, not a side dish. Truly, atole is a vast universe waiting for you to explore it.
Atole for all seasons
Have you ever heard of a drink that can be enjoyed both at breakfast and during weddings? Atoleis that drink. It was highly valued by pre-Hispanic cultures, as it was used in special ceremonies and rituals, as well as being a staple food.
In modern times, it is often given to breastfeeding mothers to support lactation, to the sick for a speedy recovery and is served at various celebrations such as weddings, baptisms, funerals, masses, Christmas posadas, and pastorelas. Last but not least, it is also a popular choice to start the day with a boost of energy.
You might be wondering why atole isn’t available at every corner puesto, restaurant, Oxxo, or cafeteria, and why it’s not offered in weird flavors at every Starbucks. Atole has been considered a beverage for Indigenous people and those of lower socioeconomic status since colonial times. This association is less than ideal, but we can work to change that! #DrinkAtole #NixtamaliseThis
Nutritional value: Is atole the next superfood?
Corn is a fantastic source of fiber, antioxidants, magnesium (goodbye insomnia!), phosphorus, zinc, and vitamins B1 and B7. When combined with ingredients like cacao, fruits, amaranth, or chia seeds, it transforms into a complete superfood that can enhance your morning routine.
A cup of atole blanco contains approximately 200 calories. Keep in mind that adding different flavors will change its nutritional content.
If you’re following a lactose-free diet, you can prepare atole using water or substitute dairy with plant-based milk.
Champurrado
Champurrado is one of the most popular flavors of atole, and it is a true delight. Here’s a recipe for you to try at home. Everyone has their own variation, so I am sharing what I have found to be one of the oldest and simplest recipes.
Ingredients:
- 5 cups of water
- 1/2 block of piloncillo (you can sweeten with honey or sugar)
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 2 Mexican chocolate tablets (Abuelita or Mayordomo) – approx. 100g
- 1 cup of corn dough (masa); if using corn flour (Maseca), mix it with water to form the dough.
- Instructions:
1. In a pot, combine three cups of water, cinnamon, piloncillo, and chocolate. Heat the mixture while stirring until everything is fully dissolved.
2. In a separate bowl, dissolve the dough in the remaining two cups of cold water to prevent clumping. Yes, you can do it in a blender. Then, strain the mixture.
3. Gradually add the strained dough mixture to the pot while stirring continuously. Simmer on low heat, stirring until the mixture thickens. Once it reaches the right texture, remove it from the heat. This will take you around 20 minutes.
4. Serve in a mug and enjoy this divine pre-Hispanic creation.
Amigos, here’s one last warning. If you hear someone say “te dieron atole con el dedo,” it means someone has fooled you. The phrase literally translates to “they gave you atole with the finger.” This expression dates back to Colonial times when wet nurses had to feed babies but didn’t want to breastfeed them, so they would entertain the babies by giving them atole with their finger.
When referring to what you read here in MND, you could say something like: “Man, I love MND! It’s the only media that won’t try to give you atole con el dedo, you know what I mean?” while sipping your atole.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
