Tuesday, July 8, 2025

The best drinks in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe

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A wine selection at Bloodlust, one of the best drinks in Ensenada
It's proper Mexican wine country, which means that the Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe region is the ideal spot for a quality tipple. (Bloodlust/Instagram)

On every trip I make to Valle de Guadalupe, I am blown away by the quality and variety of the wine being produced in this tiny region. For wine fans who haven’t yet been, this is an obligatory stop in Mexico. But wine isn’t all there is. As Valle has become a buzzy food destination over the years, its options for imbibing have rounded out to include excellent cocktail bars, mezcal dives and craft breweries that compete with many across the border for prominence. Outside of the valley, some of the best drinks in the region can be found in Ensenada too, making the area a must visit for anyone looking to experience the bredth of Mexico’s alcohol heritage.

In addition, most of the high-end dining options I wrote about in a previous piece on Baja have an excellent non-wine selection. If you get the chance to visit northern Baja I recommend trying the following places for a sampling of all the good libations on the menu.

Wineries

Vena Cava

 

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The tasting room is cool — its roof is made of the innards of an old wooden ship — but the party is really going on outside at Troika, the winery’s food truck, open for lunch and early dinner. Here, a handful of picnic tables painted in bright yellow, aqua and pink are filled with wine drinkers sipping on Vena Cava’s cool and fruity rosé or their new line of minimal intervention wine— the Pet Nat is fab. The menu’s star is the pork belly in a miso and beer glaze with tzatziki and flour tortillas, but everything was good. This place is perfect for day drinking, especially if all you have to do is walk up the hill to your room at their hotel, Villa de Valle.

Rancho San Marcos, Toros Pintos S/N, Ejido Francisco Zarco, Ensenada 

Clos de Tres Cantos

Tres Cantos is like a trip to see your philosophical aunt and uncle who have renounced city life and now tipsily recite poetry in the middle of the afternoon. Owners María and Joaquín are relative newbies in Valle de Guadalupe, but their space — built beautifully with recycled materials and following all kinds of esoteric architectural principles — feels authentically Valle. A tasting on the back patio while metallic ribbons flutter in the vineyard is almost magical. Try the Chenin Blanc, which is a burst of salty sunshine, or a bottle of Tu Mismo, a red blend with hints of tobacco and smoke. They also have a small restaurant on-site that I didn’t get to try but have heard is fantastic.

Carretera Tecate-Ensenada Km 89.5 S/N, Villa de Juárez

Bruma Wine Garden Tasting Room

 

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This tasting room has just opened, and while it’s not as well-known as some of the others in town, if Bruma’s other eating and drinking establishments are the measure, it’s going to be a thing. It feels like a bar for rich equestrians: leather couches, a long wooden bar, cozy lighting, giant stainless steel tanks to one side. You can try the whole of Bruma’s incredible line here and if you get through them all they have additional bottles from around the valley because they like to spread the love.

Carretera Tecate–Ensenada, Km 73.5, Francisco Zarco, Ensenada

Vinos Pijoan

 

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The Pijoan tasting room in the vineyard is the most low-key of any that I found in Valle and maybe that’s one of the reasons I loved it so much. A million dogs follow you to your seat on the covered back patio and you can have a languid afternoon-long tasting with no one pushing you to go. 

Pijoan boasts old-school blends that are big and bold and new minimal intervention wines that are young and fresh. I loved the entire line, but it was the vermouth that blew me away. Mistela, made from a collection of wild herbs from the area, is like taking a direct sip of Valle de Guadalupe, while Vermouth Pijoan is made in a classic style that is warm, cinnamony and just right for sipping on the rocks.

Carretera El Tigre Km.13.5, Rancho San Marcos, Poblado Francisco Zarco

Finca la Carrodilla

This absolutely stunning vineyard way out in the middle of nowhere has a tasting area that includes ground level tables amid the vines as well as an upper deck overflowing with greenery and a long family-style table under an arbor of plant life as well as a handful of high-back tables. You can do a quick tasting of their line of fully organic wine for about US $30 and the views of the surrounding organic vineyards are stunning.

Parcela 99 Z1 P14 Ejido El Porvenir, Francisco Zarco

Cocktail and mezcal bars

Matilda

 

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Without a doubt, the best cocktails I had in Ensenada were found in this tiny bistro-style dining room with photos of famous women on the walls and red-checked tablecloths. The La Princesa y El Sapo is the perfect balance between buttery and sweet with sage and huacatay — a South American marigold — and a garnish of spicy nasturtium leaf. The Sakura, which comes with a pea sprout balanced on the rim, is tart with a bit of bitterness and musky with rose water. Matilda Mi Corazon is creamy and smoky… I could go on.

Avenida Octava 106, Zona Centro, Ensenada

Santo Tomas Plaza

 

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Now a collection of restaurants, shops and bars, the Santo Tomas plaza once housed part of the winery’s facilities that was subsequently moved outside of the city limits. There’s a bevy of places here that I like: the moody Loca bar with high ceilings and low neon lighting, and La Bête Noire which feels like a bar just appeared inside a thrift store. Tanto Santo is the place for a slice and a beer, and the Alta Baja Ceveceria has a dozen or so craft beers on tap.

Avenida Miramar 666, Zona Centro, Ensenada

Bloodlust

The ultimate Baja setting, with outdoor fire pits roaring, picnic tables and an outdoor stage that hosts local music acts. The main bar and restaurant area is supposed to look like a drop of wine, but the locals call it the “garlic building.” Its bulbous, organic lines reminded me a little of the Smurf village.

Inside are window seats stuffed with pillows and tapestries, as well as regular tables for sipping a cocktail or getting a small bite. These are the second-best cocktails in Ensenada for me: the Whyskey Sour and El Conde Nado with Pijoan vermouth! were two of my favorites.

Doña Emilia LT 13-2 San Marcos, Ensenada

Hussong’s Cantina

 

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It’s kind of a shame more visitors to Valle de Guadalupe don’t hang out in Ensenada. There are a handful of great bars and restaurants there that are endlessly more economical than Valle and still stellar. One such place is Hussong’s, which definitely has a little old-school cheesiness to it, but the kind that I love. 

Hussong’s is famous for its margaritas, but even more famous for being a good hangout for everyone: young, old, local and tourist. The musical trios that roam the bar hall can help you fall in love or drown your sorrows depending on the tune you choose. As one of the oldest establishments in town, it’s an obligatory stop.

Avenida Ruiz 113, Zona Centro, Ensenada

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.

Mark your calendar: Here are all the 2025 Mexican public holidays

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Mexican woman dressed as a Catrina and in white skeletal makeup holding Mexican marigolds
Is Day of the Dead a holiday in Mexico? Depends on whose calendar you go by. Read our rundown to find out more. (Marco Ortiz-MOF/Shutterstock)

2025 is already upon us, and if you haven’t already marked your calendars, here’s a reminder that Mexico has seven official public holidays in 2025.

Also worth keeping in mind is that there are a total of 11 bank holidays (which includes the official public holidays) that will occur in the upcoming year.

Municipal workers in bright green hazmat like jumpsuits sitting in a truck bed as they are driven on a Mexico City street on an official holiday
Those in Mexico who must work on official holidays, like these folks working on Christmas Day, are entitled to double-time pay. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)

According to Mexico’s Federal Labor Law, on the seven official holidays of 2025, employees required to work must receive double-time pay, or 100% overtime pay. 

Mexico’s official national holidays are as follows (with the actual date of the holiday in parentheses where appropriate):

  • Wednesday, Jan. 1: New Year’s Day 
  • Monday, Feb. 3: Constitution Day, observed (actual date: Feb. 5)
  • Monday, March 17:  Benito Juárez’s birthday, observed (actual date: March 21)
  • Thursday, May 1: Labor Day, or Worker’s Day, as it’s named in Mexico
  • Tuesday, Sept. 16: Independence Day
  • Monday, Nov. 17: Mexican Revolution Day, observed (actual date: Nov. 20)
  • Thursday, Dec. 25: Christmas Day

Although some people might think that May 5, or Cinco de Mayo, is an official holiday in Mexico, that is not the case. 

Although Mexico’s victory over France’s invading forces at the 1862 Battle of Puebla is celebrated and public schools are closed nationwide on May 5, only the state of Puebla and its neighbor state, Veracruz, observe Cinco de Mayo as an official holiday.

Some might recall that there were nine official holidays in 2024. Those extra two days were linked to the federal election cycle, which occurs every six years. 

Huejotzingo Carnival
Parade commemorating the Battle of Puebla, with participants in faux-Middle Eastern garb, a nod to the fact that Turkish mercenaries fought Mexico’s armies for France. May 5 is not an official holiday, although schools nationwide have it off.

June 2, 2024, was Election Day, on which the president and both houses of Congress were elected. Although Election Day in Mexico is always on Sunday, it was declared an official holiday.

And earlier this year, Congress declared Oct. 1, 2024, to be a national holiday — Inauguration Day. The law establishes that every six years (presidents serve six-year terms in Mexico), Oct. 1 will be an official public holiday. Prior to 2024, presidents were sworn in on Dec. 1 and Inauguration Day was celebrated every six years on that date.

New holidays coming in 2025?

The newspaper El Financiero reported that there could be two new additional public holidays approved for 2025. Congress is considering making Dec. 12, the Catholic feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

The shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe in Mexico City is the most visited Catholic pilgrimage destination in the world

Congress also might declare June 1 a holiday as well — but only for this year: Mexico holds its first-ever nationwide election of judges and magistrates on Sunday, June 1, 2025. 

In addition to the seven official public holidays, Mexico’s banks, currency exchanges and financial markets observe four other holidays.

  • April 17: Holy Thursday
  • April 18:Good Friday 
  • Nov. 3: Day of the Dead (although this falls on a Sunday in 2025) 
  • Dec. 12: Virgin of Guadalupe feast day 

With reports from El Financiero, Debate and TV Azteca

Por fin! After 13 years, GDL-Puerto Vallarta highway project finishes

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Mexico's President Claudia Sheinbaum cutting a ribbon to open the completed Guadalajara-Puerto Vallarta highway
President Sheinbaum and members of her cabinet inaugurated the highway on Saturday in Bahía de Banderas, Nayarit. (Cuartoscuro)

The long-awaited Guadalajara-Puerto Vallarta highway, which makes it easier and faster to reach the Pacific resort cities of Puerto Vallarta and Bahía de Banderas by car, is finally fully open — 13 years after work on the 310-kilometer roadway was first approved.

An inaugural ceremony on Satuday in Bahía de Banderas led by President Claudia Sheinbaum and members of her cabinet celebrated the opening of the final stretch of the highway — a 33-kilometer segment along the Pacific Coast that extends from Bucerías, Nayarit, to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco.

Map showing the trajectory of the new Guadalajara-Puerto Vallarta highway in Mexico
The highway makes travel between the two cities much shorter and provides increased access to Puerto Vallarta’s airport. it is expected to increase domestic tourism in the region. (SICT)

The new roadway also provides a direct link between Tepic, the Nayarit state capital, and the beach resorts in and around Puerto Vallarta, reducing travel time from three hours to 90 minutes.

The strategic infrastructure project has been delayed multiple times over its 13-year duration due to budget constraints — outlasting three of Mexico’s presidents and even more governors of Jalisco and Nayarit.

It was set to open in 2014, but by the time President Enrique Peña Nieto left office in 2018, only two sections of the highway project had opened. Progress on its construction continued on a slow drip in the following years, with sections opening one at a time. 

The road loops northwest from the state capital around the Sierra de Vallejo Biosphere Reserve in southern Nayarit, then curves southwest toward the Pacific Ocean, traversing along the coast for nearly 100 kilometers.

The new toll road will reduce travel time between Guadalajara and the coast in half, from five hours to two and a half hours, according to Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation (SICT) Minister Jesús Antonio Esteva. It also benefits travelers farther north along the Jalisco coast, giving them a more direct route to Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara.

Sheinbaum also announced on Saturday other infrastructure and social projects benefitting the region, including scholarships for children in Nayarit and Jalisco and funding to renovate schools in both states. 

Sheinbaum also took advantage of the highway’s inauguration to announce new funding for upcoming infrastructure and projects to benefit citizens in the two states.

Among the new public works to be constructed are a bridge between Bahía de Banderas and Puerto Vallarta, a freshwater aqueduct in southern Nayarit and several scenic highways — known as caminos artesanales — in the Indigenous Wixárica region of northwestern Jalisco. 

The caminos artesanales project seeks to connect Indigenous communities in rural areas and will use local materials. It will also provide temporary jobs to residents.

“We are demonstrating that nobody will be left behind in Mexico,” Sheinbaum said Saturday.

Welfare Minister Ariadna Montiel said that the new highway and the projects Sheinbaum announced demonstrate that the administration is determined to improve the quality of life of Mexico’s marginalized citizens.

The final stretch of highway, which cost 2 billion pesos (US $98 million), features eight bridges — with the longest being 300 meters in length — three overpasses, a trunk road to the Puerto Vallarta airport and one toll booth, according to SICT Minister Esteva.

The entire toll highway has six toll booths and costs as much as 1,300 pesos (US $63) to travel its entire length, according to the newspaper Informador.

With reports from Debate and NTV+

Mexico City will cut its reliance on water from the Cutzamala System by 50%, mayor announces

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A tiered water collection system in the Cutzamala water system for Mexico City
The Cutzamala basin transfer system supplies over a quarter of the water used by Mexico City's 22.5 million residents. (ObservaValle/Twitter)

In an effort to address the problem of severe water shortages in Mexico City, Mayor Clara Brugada announced this week a plan calling for the metropolis of 22.5 million people to halve its reliance on the Cutzamala reservoir system for the next two years.

Elected to office on June 2 and sworn in on Oct. 5, Brugada announced the strategy during the inauguration of the city’s first Agua Bienestar purification plant in the Coyoacán borough on Monday.

Mexico City Mayor Clara Brugada and other officials on stage with 20-liter jugs of water and a banner reading "Agua Bienestar"
Brugada inaugurated the Coyoacán Agua Bienestar purification plant on Monday. (Clara Brugada/Twitter)

The plant is going to help solve water problems, as well, the Morena party member noted. Starting next Monday, 19-liter garrafones (jugs) of purified water will be sold mainly to low-income residents and those in areas that suffer from chronic shortages — for only five pesos (US 24 cents) each, with an additional 80 pesos (US $3.83) up-front cost for the reusable plastic jug.

A filled 19- or 20-liter garrafón in Mexico generally retails for 48 to 60 pesos (US $2.30 to $2.87), although self-fill purification stations can cut the cost to about 13 to 26 pesos (US 62 cents to $1.24).

This part of the strategy aims to alleviate financial strain on families who are hit harder than others because of repeated water woes in their areas. The program will initially serve 738 neighborhoods and districts lacking sufficient water infrastructure that are sometimes subject to rationing.

“I want to make it very clear that Agua Bienestar solves part of the problem, but the underlying problem — the problem of water scarcity — will be addressed with sectorization, redistribution, infrastructure, water balance and sustainability,” Brugada said. “That is the way we are going to solve things.”

Brugada said a good start is reducing by 50% the city’s reliance on water from the Cutzamala System, so the three main reservoirs that feed it can recover.

Though abundant July rains in Michoacán and México state — home to Cutzamala’s largest reservoirs — helped boost CDMX’s water supply, drought conditions persist and the Cutzamala System currently is operating at 65% capacity.

The National Water Commission (Conagua) has noted that the Cutzamala System supplies around 28% of the capital’s water. This summer, the system was briefly shut off for repairs.

“At least for two years, we will receive only half of what Cutzamala supplied us last year, ensuring its long-term viability,” the mayor said.

Some dams in Mexico maintain historic lows, due to the extended drought in the country.
Two years of reduced withdrawals will allow the Cutzamala System’s reservoirs to recover from the extended drought, Brugada said. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

Brugada also detailed plans to infiltrate more rainwater into aquifers, which supply 70% of Mexico City’s water.

She said investment will focus on reviewing, maintaining and improving well infrastructure; setting up water-treatment facilities in more communities; and implementing automated systems to monitor and resolve water supply issues promptly.

Brugada said 15 billion pesos (US $718.5 million) will be allocated for these water initiatives; that’s out of the 291.5 billion pesos (US $13.98 billion) that she proposed last week for Mexico City’s overall 2025 budget.

“A large part of the resources will be used to guarantee that the existing wells function and provide the amount of water that should be,” she said.

Brugada’s government aims to construct at least one purification plant in each of CDMX’s 16 boroughs, with some areas receiving up to four. This expansion, supported by 30 million pesos (US $1.45 million) at the outset, is expected to produce 200,000 jugs per month by the end of 2025.

“We’re prioritizing areas where water scarcity and poverty intersect,” Brugada said, adding that no individual application process is required. “This is about addressing systemic inequality in water access.”

“This is an immediate step to support those who need it most while we work on long-term solutions,” added Mario Esparza, Mexico City’s minister of water management. He also assured residents that the purified water meets the highest quality standards.

Brugada said her administration is committed to resolving water shortages citywide by 2027, in equitable and sustainable ways.

With reports from El Universal and La Jornada

New tax rule for foreign e-commerce sites selling in Mexico takes effect

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A hand holding a blank Master Card credit card in front of a laptop screen with the Amazon logo in white and orange.
Foreign e-commerce companies like Amazon and Temu must now pay Mexico's IVA tax on sales to shoppers in Mexico, even when the platform deposits to a seller's bank account outside the country. (Fabio Principe/Shutterstock)

Foreign e-commerce companies such as Amazon and Temu will now have to pay Mexico’s 16% value-added tax (IVA) on products they export to and sell in Mexico.

The requirement is outlined in the Resolución Miscelánea Fiscal 2025 (2025 Miscellaneous Tax Resolution), which Mexico’s Finance Ministry published in the federal government’s official gazette on Monday.

Mexico's President Claudia Sheinbaum and its Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard stand at a press conference in front of a long, thin table. Together they are holding up a portfolio cover with the document they signed to expand a 35% tariff on textile imports.
The tax requirement on foreign e-commerce companies comes on the heels of a decree signed earlier this month by President Claudia Sheinbaum, left, and Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard, right, that placed a 35% tariff on foreign clothing imports. The tariff didn’t apply to countries that have a free trade agreement with Mexico. (Marcelo Ebrard/X)

In accordance with the new rule, digital platforms including Amazon and the Chinese companies Temu, Shein and Alibaba will have to pay the IVA to federal tax agency SAT even when payment for products is deposited into foreign accounts. IVA payments must be made on a monthly basis before the 17th of any given month.

E-commerce companies are now also obliged to enroll in Mexico’s Federal Taxpayer Registry as part of efforts to ensure they comply with all relevant tax obligations in the country.

To avoid falling afoul of tax laws in Mexico, such companies will have to collect a range of information including bank account details and location from all third parties selling products on their sites. In addition, foreign e-commerce companies will have to provide electronic receipts to third parties that detail tax payments that have been withheld.

The stricter tax rules come as Mexico is seeking to reduce its reliance on imports from China and other Asian countries. Chinese e-commerce sites (and brick-and-mortar stores in Mexico) sell a wide range of Chinese goods at prices that are significantly lower than those made in Mexico, raising concerns about the ongoing viability of various Mexican industries.

Earlier this month, the federal government announced new tariffs on imported clothes and textiles in order to protect the Mexican textile/clothing industry, which the Mexican government says is losing jobs due to, in large part, unfair competition from underpriced Chinese imports. Mexican authorities have also raided stores in Mexico to seize counterfeit Chinese goods as well as products for which applicable import fees were not paid.

Obliging foreign e-commerce companies to pay IVA on products they sell in Mexico will create a more level playing field between foreign and Mexican businesses — and thus should make locally made goods more competitive.

Mexican tax revenue agency
Foreign e-commerce companies are now also obliged to enroll in Mexico’s Federal Taxpayer Registry, administered by the federal tax agency known colloquially as the SAT. (Internet)

In 2025, the government expects to collect an additional 15 billion pesos (US $719.2 million) in tax revenue as a result of e-commerce companies’ payment of the IVA.

Who will really end up paying?

According to media reports, there are concerns that e-commerce companies — whose sales in Mexico are on the rise — will pass on the new tax burden to their customers, even though it’s the companies’ obligation to pay the IVA.

“Although the 16% IVA is solely directed at digital platforms, concerns remain as to how the indirect transfer of this tax to the final consumer will be avoided,” reported the news website Debate.

“While the authorities have said that the 16% IVA will only be charged to the e-commerce platforms and not to customers, there are still doubts about how to prevent final consumers from paying it,” the newspaper El Economista said.

With reports from Debate, El Economista and Infobae

Staff picks 2024: Best listens of the year

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A man listens to headphones in a city, to illustrate the best Mexican msuic and podcasts of 2024
From Latin rock to rap to podcasts, here are Mexico News Daily's top audio recommendations from 2024. (Henry Be/Unsplash)

From underground rock to podcasts exploring Mexican history, our team at Mexico News Daily brings you some of our favorite audio storytelling and musical discoveries of 2024. Whether you’re looking for fresh perspectives on Mexico or hunting for your next favorite band, this eclectic mix has something for every listener. For more recommendations, don’t forget to check out our staff’s favorite books, series and movies of the past year.

Podcasts

The rise of the Aztec empire: Ed Barnhart and Lex Fridman

Ed Barnhart wears a wide-brimmed hat and work shirt with forest and Mexican pyramids in the background
Archaeologist Ed Barnhart is known for leading the 1998-2000 Palenque Mapping Project, at the invitation of the Mexican government. (Ed Barnhart)

Ed Barnhart, an archeologist and explorer specializing in ancient civilizations of the Americas, guest stars on the Lex Fridman Podcast. —Tamanna Bembenek, Mexico News Daily co-owner and product manager

The Sounds of Mexico City

Organ-grinders in Mexico City
The melodies of organ grinders are one of Mexico City’s many distinctive sounds. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)

While not exactly a podcast, this audio story delivers you from wherever you are to the bustling, boisterous streets of Mexico City. Very innovative! —Peter Davies, chief staff writer

Radiolab’s Border Trilogy

A dark-skinned young woman pushing a child in a stroller leads a group of migrants down a Mexican street, part of a migrant caravan
The trilogy follows the impact of border policies on not just migrants but also border region residents and families of missing people. (Damián Sánchez/Cuartoscuro)

Though this series first aired in 2018, Radiolab released an updated version last year. In the aftermath of U.S. President Biden’s crackdown on asylum seekers, it’s more relevant than ever. —Rose Egelhoff, senior news editor

Music

The Warning

A woman plays a set of drums labelled "The Warning," to represent one of the best Mexican music or podcasts that MND staff discovered in 2024.
Sisters Daniela, Paulina and Alejandra Villarreal Vélez make up The Warning, founded in Monterrey in 2013. (The Warning)

I recently discovered The Warning, a rock band formed by three sisters from Monterrey. They started playing Metallica covers together when they were little. Now, they have achieved so much success that they fill the Auditorio Nacional. If you are a rock lover I highly recommend this super girl band! —María Ruiz, assistant editor

Peso Pluma

Peso Pluma "Rubicon" (Video Musical)

Mexican regional musician Peso Pluma’s chart-topping hits have helped bring the genre of corridos tumbados to the ears of listeners around the world. His ties to narco-culture make this artist controversial, especially in his home country — but you’re still likely to hear these earworms playing around town almost anywhere in Mexico. Check out his songs “Rubicon” and “Nueva Vida” for an irresistible introduction to modern-day corridos. —Tamanna Bembenek, Mexico News Daily co-owner and product manager

Kittyponeo by Bellakath

The cover of the music album Kittyponeo by Bellakath, showing a dark-haired woman in a pink bikini and dramatic makeup
Katherinne Huerta, known professionally as Bellakath, hails from the Iztacalco borough of Mexico City. (Bellakath)

Mexico City’s alternative reggaetonera Bellakath first went viral in 2022 with her hit single “Gatita.” Her first studio album, “Kittyponeo,” came out in 2023 and the top song, “Reggaeton Champagne,” continued to chart globally into early 2024. —Felicity Bradstock, news writer

KEVIN PÓRTATE BIEN by Robot95

Kevin Gutiérrez, aka Robot95 (Robot95)

Mexicali rapper Kevin Gutiérrez, aka Robot95, has won fans over with R&B-influenced “smooth, West Coast hip hop,” according to Remezcla. His most recent album, “Kevin pórtate bien” (“Kevin, behave yourself”) came out in 2024. —Bethany Platanella, features writer

Mexico News Daily

Real estate treasures in Chihuahua state you can’t miss in 2025

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Lodge Cabin in Creel, Chihuahua
These real estate opportunities in the northern state of Chihuahua are a must-see. (VEKA Grupo Inmobiliario/Inmuebles24)

A combination of factors makes the northern state of Chihuahua a reference point for real estate in Mexico. Among these reasons are its unique natural and touristic attractions, such as the tour through the Sierra Tarahumara and Copper Canyon, the Basaseachic Falls and the rail line known as El Chepe. 

The Historic Center of Chihuahua city has been included in the national list of Barrios Mágicos (Magical Neighborhoods). In January 2024, the state launched its own Traditional Towns program, with the first edition recognizing and five municipalities: Guerrero, Jiménez, Riva Palacio, Rosales and Allende

Statistics suggest that Chihuahua is one of the fastest-growing regions for nearshoring, along with Coahuila and Nuevo León. For this reason, Chihuahua will host the Mexican Association of Real Estate Professionals’ (AMPI) national convention next year, which is expected to attract more than 1,200 national and international real estate consultants.

Real estate opportunities in Chihuahua to look out for in 2025

Downtown Chihuahua city

Apartments for sale located in the historic center, Av. Independencia. The historic center of the city is one of the best preserved and notable for its baroque architectural works. In its streets you can find all kinds of shops such as clothing stores, restaurants, government offices, tourist offices, etc.
These lovely lofts are located in Chihuahua city’s Historic Center and are among the best preserved in town. (Mobilé/Inmuebles24)

On the corner of Avenida Independencia and Calle Morelos stands the historic building known as La Nacional, constructed in 1940. In its early years, it housed an insurance company. Recognizable by its quarry facade and foyer featuring onyx stone details, this building has been restored while preserving its original design. Some of the building’s apartments are currently for sale, and they are true gems, both for their historical value and modern touches.

Creel

Lodge Cabin in Creel, Chihuahua
Winter days might feel just right in these lovely Chihuahan cabins. (VEKA Grupo Inmobiliario/Inmuebles24)

Nestled in the enchanting woods of Creel, Chihuahua — a Pueblo Mágico located in the Sierra Tarahumara, home to the Rarámuri peoplethis cabin sits on a plot totaling 3,043 square meters. The home spans 91 square meters, is completely new and offers water and electric services. Undoubtedly, the added value of this property lies in its natural setting.

Cuauhtémoc

It is located in the third most important city in Chihuahua, known as the land of the three cultures for being the cradle of the Rarámuri, Mestizo and Mennonite cultures.
This beautiful house has the style of the rustic traditional houses of one single floor in Mexico (Cuauhtémoc LM Inmobiliaria)

This classic rustic Mexican home is situated on a single floor. With a total area of 645 square meters and an equal area of construction, this space is filled with light, green areas, wooden floors, skylights and numerous windows. Among other amenities, it features five bedrooms, a foyer with a fireplace and a half bath, a bar, a wine cellar, a laundry room, a garage for three cars, solar panels, a hydropneumatic system and an alarm system. It is located in the third most important city in Chihuahua, known as the land of the three cultures for being the cradle of the Rarámuri, mestizo and Mennonite cultures.

San Felipe

With a beautiful terrace and large rooms, this house is a jewel in one of the best neighborhoods in Chihuahua City
With a beautiful terrace and large rooms, this house is a jewel in one of the best neighborhoods in Chihuahua City. (Casa Blanca Bienes Raíces)

Located in one of the most important neighborhoods of Chihuahua city, the state’s capital, this house is built on a single floor and features a beautiful terrace. It has a construction area of 279 square meters and a total area of 420 square meters and includes three bedrooms, three parking spaces and stunning wood floors. One of its greatest points is an apartment in the back, which is available for remodeling.

Saucito, Chihuahua city

TORRE QUORUM, DISTRITO UNO, El Sauz, Chihuahua
The only lofts in the heart of Chihuahua. (Mobilé/Inmuebles24)

Located in the “commercial, culinary and social heart of Chihuahua,” this loft boasts an attractive design and offers amenities such as a pool on its terrace and a dining room with a view. The space is filled with natural light due to its numerous windows. The building also features a gym and private security, among other facilities.

Villa Valle de Allende

Villa Valle de Allende is one of the new towns called Traditional Towns in this state and this house is in the heart of its downtown
Villa Valle de Allende is one of Chihuahua’s new Traditional Towns. (Inmuebels24)

Located Allende, in one of the municipalities recently designated as a Traditional Town by Chihuahua’s tourism authority, this house-apartment is situated in the heart of downtown, which is a gem in itself. The construction spans 193 square meters, with a total area of 229 square meters thanks to its small garden. It features two bedrooms, one and a half bathrooms and a well-thought-out layout.

Ana Paula de la Torre is a Mexican journalist and collaborator for various outlets including Milenio, Animal Político, Vice, Newsweek en Español, Televisa and Mexico News Daily.

Peso falls to 20.9 to the dollar in its fourth consecutive day of depreciation

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A Mexican 20-peso bill and a U.S. 20-dollar bill on an abstract black background. The Mexican bill is laying over the U.S. bill.
The peso kicked off Semana Santa (Holy Week) at nearly 20 to the dollar. (Shutterstock)

The Mexican peso depreciated in early trading on Tuesday, losing ground against the US dollar for a fourth consecutive day as 2024 comes to a close.

After closing at 20.66 to the greenback on Monday, the peso fell to 20.90 shortly before 2 p.m. Mexico City time on Tuesday. The tumble marked a 1.16% depreciation, bringing the peso to its weakest position in all of 2024.

The peso’s depreciation on Tuesday came after the currency fell 1.67% against the greenback on Monday.

The expectation that the Bank of Mexico’s benchmark interest rate will continue to decline in 2025 after five cuts this year is one factor contributing to the decline of the peso in recent days. Concern over the potential impact of the second Trump administration on the Mexican economy is another.

United States President-elect Donald Trump, who will take office on Jan. 20, has pledged to impose a 25% tariff on all Mexican exports on the first day of his second term and keep it in place until Mexico does more to stop the flow of drugs and migrants to the U.S.

In a post to X on Tuesday morning, Banco Base’s director of economic analysis, Gabriela Siller, attributed the recent depreciation of the peso to “fear” over Trump’s return to the White House.

“The exchange rate is shaping up to end the year at close to 21 pesos per dollar. There is fear over the return of Trump,” she wrote.

Cipactli Jiménez, an independent investment adviser, told the El Economista newspaper that “there is great uncertainty” regarding the relationship Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum will have with Trump.

Uncertainty over the impact the policies of the second Trump administration will have on the Mexican economy “is reflected in the [current USD:MXN] exchange rate,” he added.

The worst year for the peso since 2008 

According to Yahoo! Finance, the Mexican peso closed at 16.86 to the US dollar on Dec. 31, 2023. Thus the peso has depreciated around 19% in 2024.

Compared to the 16.30-to-the-dollar rate the peso reached in April, the depreciation is almost 22%.

The peso depreciated sharply after the ruling Morena party’s comprehensive victory in Mexico’s June 2 elections. Concern over Morena’s constitutional reform agenda, especially the judicial overhaul that Congress approved in September, was a major factor in the decline.

The election of Trump in early November, and the former and future president’s tariff threats, placed additional pressure on the peso.

On Monday, Siller noted on X that the peso was on track to record its fourth-worst year since Mexico implemented a free-floating exchange regime in 1995.

“If the exchange rate ends the year at today’s level (20.55 pesos per dollar) it will be the fourth largest annual depreciation [for the peso] since we’ve had the free-floating exchange regime,” she wrote.

The Banco Base analyst said that the annual depreciation this year would rank behind a 51.63% decline in 1995, a 22.87% depreciation in 1998 and a 25.46% weakening in 2008 amid the global financial crisis.

With reports from El Economista, Reuters and Bloomberg Línea

We’ve been here before: Should Spain apologize to Mexico?

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His Majesty King Felipe VI received the President of Castilla-La Mancha, Emiliano García-Page, this afternoon at the Zarzuela Palace.
King Felipe VI was not invited to President's Sheinbaum inauguration — Mexico is still expecting an apology from Spain. (Emiliano García-Page Sánchez/Wikimedia Commons)

My very first article at Mexico News Daily was about then-President López Obrador’s request that Spain officially apologize for the conquest. My thesis was, basically, why not apologize?

The powers that be in Spain scoffed, saying that historical events shouldn’t be judged through a modern lens. A few op-ed pieces were written about it in the Mexican papers, and people fought about it on Facebook for a bit. Upper-class Mexicans especially rolled their eyes.

Jesús Ernesto, Obrador's son, chats with Felipe VI, King of Spain, during the session of the General Congress in which Andrés Manuel López Obrador was sworn in as President of Mexico.
In the picture, AMLO’s youngest son talks to King Felipe VI of Spain — months after his father asked Spain to apologize for the horrors committed during the Conquest. (Diego Simón Sánchez/Cuartoscuro)

“The Spaniards of today are not the same people, and neither are we, duh.

The idea seemed to die down as more pressing matters inevitably took its place. But it apparently had not been put to bed once and for all. With the inauguration of President Claudia Sheinbaum, and later in a morning press conference, it was revived.

First, there was her inauguration. The same king of Spain who rejected an apology the first time around, King Felipe VI, was not invited. As a result, Spain sent no guests at all. Yikes!

I know it’s diplomacy, and maybe it’s because I’m currently binge-watching “Downton Abbey,” but these kinds of tiffs strike me as kind of adorable. Royalty: they’re just like us! Not invited to the big party? Everyone’s going to hear about it, now!

Claudia Sheinbaum, President of Mexico, answers questions from the press at the People's Conference at the National Palace.
President Sheinbaum did not invite King Felipe VI to her inauguration earlier this year. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

One of the reasons given by Sheinbaum for not extending the invitation was that King Felipe had not responded to López Obrador’s letter requesting the apology. Spain’s Prime Minister, though, was not convinced. He called it “unacceptable and inexplicable, given the level of relations between Spain and Mexico, two ‘brother’ countries.” Spain did not send a delegation to the inauguration.

“Brothers,” hmm. Well, Mexico and Spain have always had a rather tough relationship. Is it any wonder they’d occasionally participate in a tit-for-tat?

I’m sorry is all that you can’t say…

Perhaps they’ll take a page from Tracy Chapman’sBaby Can I Hold You” and love each other despite the lack of apology? Or cooperate, at least, which is what they seem to be doing. So what about the apology?

I don’t know a whole lot about diplomatic relations, but I do know about pride and stubbornness. And one thing I know for sure is that apologizing can be hard, especially if you don’t think you should have to.

16th-century Mexica Codex of smallpox victims
Among the many atrocities that the Spaniards committed during the Conquest were creating the circumstances for waves of European diseases to kill up to 80% of Mexico’s Indigenous population. (Wikimedia Commons)

I also know that culturally, saying “I was wrong, I’m sorry,” is not easy, especially here. I can’t count how many people I know whose only version of the phrase is, “I’m sorry, but…” They then launch into all the reasons that they are right, and so of course don’t need to apologize. There are even some people who I’ve never heard apologize a single time. Say why they shouldn’t, sure, but accept responsibility?

So I’m not saying that Spain should apologize because it’s currently responsible for the atrocities committed during the Conquest. I’m saying Spain should apologize because it would be symbolically important to a lot of people.

Because while the number isn’t quite as high, in addition to the “I’m sorry, but…” people, I know quite a lot who simply hate Spain and Spaniards. Why? “Because of what they did to us.” Sigh.

From the Conquest of México series.Depicts the 1521 Fall of Tenochtitlan by Spanish Conquistador Hernán Cortés, in the Spanish conquest of the Mexica Empire.
A depiction of the fall of México-Tenochtitlan, by the hands of the Spaniards, in 1521. (Wikimedia Commons)

To me, this has typically been just virtue-signaling. I don’t see anyone, for example, refusing to speak their language or worship their gods. “I’m discerning and angry because I have a sense of history.” Cool, cool. Is there anything you’re doing to help indigenous people today, then?

In the case of Morena, the answer is actually “kind of,” which is more than past administrations can say. Not only have they been included symbolically in high-level government ceremonies. Many of the current government programs aimed at helping those in poverty go to them, and justice plans for Indigenous people are being created and carried out under Morena’s government.

So come on, Your Majesty. Surely an important symbolic leader could give an important symbolic apology, right? It’s certainly not unprecedented, and it would make some people very happy. Can we not just do something to make some people happy?

According to the current and former presidents, the purpose of the apology is to simply acknowledge what happened, and to put it behind us. No one is asking Spain for reparations, though I wonder if they’re afraid of such requests to follow if they give an admission of guilt.

The constitutional president of the United Mexican States, Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo, during the ceremony of the indigenous peoples and the Afro-Mexican people where she was given the Staff of Command, on the zócalo square in Mexico City.
Justice plans for Indigenous people are being created and carried out under the Morena government. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)

Perhaps that’s some of their reluctance. Because what is an apology without an offer to make amends?

Empty.

It could be that they don’t want to put themselves into a situation of being pressured to pay for it somehow. It could also be — this is a big maybe — that they don’t want to sound like hypocrites for offering an apology without suggestions for making it right.

Perhaps to them, it’s akin to the land acknowledgements found of late in the United States and Canada. If you’re not familiar with them, they’re essentially statements by the descendants of colonizers saying, “We recognize and honor you.”

I’m a card-carrying liberal, but this seems both silly and insulting to me. “We want to show we’re good people by saying we see you, but please, oh God, please do not suggest actual reparations.”

In the end, we’ll just have to see what happens. Mexico may never get its apology, or it may get it tomorrow. When a reporter pointed out former President Calderón having criticized the insistence on an apology, she quipped back. “Do you think that Calderón will someday apologize for the war on drugs?”

I’m not holding my breath for either apology.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Best of 2024: Life in Mexico according to Sarah DeVries

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A tiendita in Mexico
Reading Sarah DeVries' column is like stepping into your neighborhood tiendita — you might arrive without a list, but you always leave with exactly what you needed. (Unsplash)

Mexico News Daily’s resident thinker, explainer, seer, doer and dog-loser has had a busy 2024. It’s not been an easy year of explaining the myriad differences between life in the United States and life in Mexico — but she sure has tried. 

From rounding up the best of Mexican memes to curing hangovers or teaching us all how to curse appropriately, Sarah has worked tirelessly to bring MND readers closer to life as a real Mexican. If a real Mexican was born in Texas, that is.

So sit back, get ready to laugh and enjoy some of the best slice-of-life pieces we published in 2024.

How to spot a foreigner

Ever see someone walking down a street in Mexico and just know they’re not from around here? It’s like playing “Spot the Gringo,” and while Mexicans are generally friendly, foreigners tend to stand out like a sore thumb. Their outfits scream comfort over style —athletic sandals, anyone? And their faces? Smiling at everyone like they’re auditioning for the “Nice American” role. Then there’s the way they look at people — overdoing eye contact and forcing everyone they pass to be their new best friend.

Of course, there’s also the gringo habit of leaning on everything — because why stand when you can lean? And when navigating narrow sidewalks, they’re always in a rush, showing that classic gringo urgency. Oh, and they love staring — whether it’s a leaf or a piece of trash, it’s all fascinating. Blending in? Not their forte. But they sure have a knack for making their presence known!

The tell-tale gringo: how to spot a foreigner in Mexico

Beauty is in the blue eye of the beholder

Dating in Mexico is like a confusing game of “Who’s the prettiest?” where it’s not just about skin color but also social class. Racism in Mexico is a mix of classism and colorism.

Unlike the U.S., where races were segregated by law, Mexico’s complex mestizo history has created a society where darker skin often means poverty and fewer opportunities. Wealthy Mexicans? They’re mostly lighter-skinned, thanks to centuries of colonialism. This is why Mexican beauty standards are Eurocentric — blonde hair, light eyes, the works. But if a foreigner marries someone darker-skinned, Mexicans sometimes wonder, “Why choose that?” Casual racism? Definitely. 

Beauty is in the blue eye of the beholder

Digital nomad blues

Typing away in Veracruz’s Heroica taproom, sipping beer and watching housing prices skyrocket around her, Sarah DeVries looks like the quintessential digital nomad. But hold on — she’s not exactly living the dream. Sarah has been in Mexico for decades, long before online work became a thing. Back then, her first job in Mexico involved working in education, getting paid in cash, and dreaming of a microwave.

Fast forward to 2011, and she snagged her first online gig with Open English. Things were looking good, until a lawsuit from a fellow worker turned her perfect gig into a nightmare.

Cue the existential crisis. As U.S. employers increasingly restrict remote work to workers based in the actual United States, Sarah’s realizing that maybe freelancing is just as stable of a strategy as taking a traditional full-time job.

The digital nomad blues and a tale of remote work caution

When everybody wants the ‘real’ Mexico

Twelve years ago, while living in Querétaro, Sarah and her sister decided to visit San Miguel de Allende, thinking it was the perfect, authentic Mexican town. Nestled in the mountains with mild weather, charming streets and a lovely artisan market, it seemed like the ideal getaway. But as they wandered the Zócalo, they couldn’t help but notice something odd: they were passing more expats than actual Mexicans. San Miguel, it turned out, had become a retirement haven for U.S. and Canadian expats. 

So, what is the “real” Mexico? The idea often floats around that places like Cancún or Los Cabos aren’t “authentic,” but what if the “real” Mexico is constantly shifting? After all, when new arrivals — whether from abroad or other parts of Mexico — move in, they change the landscape, often making locals lament that their beloved towns are no longer the same. In Querétaro, for example, natives grumbled about the influx of Chilangos (people from Mexico City), who were “ruining” the city with their traffic and looser morals. Sound familiar?

The truth is, places change. Newcomers bring both benefits (more services!) and drawbacks (more traffic!). And while we love discovering hidden gems, we also secretly wish they stay hidden… until we arrive. Then, it’s like, “Sorry, but now it’s ours. Please don’t come.” 

Welcome to the complicated nature of gentrification and tourism.

When everyone wants the “real” Mexico

Should I get offended?

Gringos and Mexicans make a pretty great pair — like peanut butter and jelly, but with a surprise dollop of salsa. Our cultural personalities mesh well, unlike, say, the classic tension between U.S. and French citizens. But even the loveliest matches have their moments. Sometimes, gringos get downright annoyed. And sometimes, Mexicans are left wondering if their new gringo friend was raised in a pressure cooker.

In Mexico, time is more of a suggestion. If you’re rushing, this might not be the place for you. Get used to it. Parties? They start when they start. No one’s apologizing for showing up three hours late. The goal is being there, not being punctual.

Now, gringos, listen up: don’t show your impatience too obviously. Mexican patience is legendary, but if you’re too loud about it, you’ll get on their nerves faster than a neighbor’s blasting music. Speaking of noise — this country is not a whispering library. If your neighbors are loud, well, welcome to Mexico. Complain all you want, but the noise won’t stop. The cops will show up, nod and leave, and the music will turn back up.

If you’re getting upset over all this, just remember the saying: “Si ya saben cómo soy, ¿para qué me invitan?” — “If you know how I am, why invite me?” So grab a beer, relax and don’t expect anyone to arrive on time. It’s Mexico, baby.

Should I get offended?

The American Know-It-All

We all know the classic American Know-It-All: always a guy, right? He’s the self-proclaimed expert on everything in Mexico — customs, holidays, traditions, what people like, don’t like, think, don’t think. He knows the best taco joints and the inner workings of Mexican families. Oh, and did I mention he barely speaks Spanish?

It’s like those Mexicans who claim English is super easy. They “understand perfectly,” they just struggle with speaking it. Okay, buddy. But if you don’t speak the language, I’m not following you around the country.

The American Know-It-All

On the other end of the spectrum, you have the actual Know-It-Alls. They throw out folkloric phrases, translate them for you, and expect you to be impressed. Pro tip: Don’t offer unsolicited expertise. Don’t assume you’re the most interesting person in the room. And definitely don’t explain Mexico to Mexicans.

Mexicans, for the most part, let these guys be. Maybe they whisper a “qué pendejo” later, but they don’t dwell on it. Turns out, we’re all a bit clueless sometimes—and that’s okay. Just don’t make it your thing.

If you’re interested in more Sarah DeVries, you can find her complete writing for Mexico News Daily here.