Residents of the Nahua town Cuentepec in Morelos walk by a multi-lingual mural. More than 7 million Mexicans speak an Indigenous language. (Margarito Pérez Retano/Cuartoscuro)
Google has added 110 new languages — including Zapotec, Nahuatl, Maya Yucateco and Qʼeqchiʼ, also a Maya language — to its free Google Translate service.
Machine translation is valuable in the efforts to save minority languages, which could help preserve Mexico’s Indigenous languages.
Indigenous Mexican languages now supported by Google Translate
Zapotec is an extensive language family originating in southern Mexico. There are over 50 different Zapotec languages (which belong to the larger Otomanguean language family). Mexico’s national statistics agency, INEGI, reports that a total of approximately 425,000 people speak Zapotec, primarily in the state of Oaxaca.
Nahuatl (also known as Aztec, or Mexicano) is a group of languages of the Uto-Aztecan language family. About 1.7 million Nahua people speak Nahuatl, primarily in Central Mexico.
Nahuatl, Maya, Zapotec and other Indigenous languages spoken in Mexico are now available on Google Translate. (Google)
Qʼeqchiʼ (Kekchi in many English-language contexts, such as in Belize) are a Maya people of Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. Their language is Qʼeqchiʼ.
Maya Yucateco, often simply called Maya, is spoken in the Yucatán Peninsula and parts of northern Belize. Linguists added “Yucateco” to the name in order to clearly distinguish it from all other Maya languages.
Google Translate’s latest expansion is its largest yet
The expansion is part of a Google initiative to build AI models to support the 1,000 most spoken languages around the world.
“We’re always applying the latest technologies so more people can access this tool … From Cantonese to Qʼeqchiʼ, these new languages represent more than 614 million speakers, opening up translations for around 8% of the world’s population,” the tech giant said in a statement.
These languages are in different stages of usage. Some have 100 million speakers, Google noted, and some have no active speakers.
In determining which languages to provide support for in Google Translate, Google said it considers regional varieties, dialects and different spelling standards, the news site Tech Crunch reported.
A large language model called PaLM 2 powers the new expansion. PaLM 2 was pre-trained on multilingual sets of texts ranging in scope from human to programming languages, making it much more advanced than its predecessor PaLM, which used mostly English-only datasets.
More readily identified with tequila and mezcal, Mexican rum is emerging from the shadows to take a turn in the spotlight. (Photos by Anna Bruce)
Mexico might not be at the forefront of the mind when it comes to thinking of great rum producers. But Mexican rum has a profound, if often overlooked, legacy that lives on today at the hands of traditional distillers.
Mexican sugarcane rums are different from Caribbean rums in that they are generally produced using not molasses but fermented sugarcane juice. There are two prominent styles of this type of spirit in Mexico. The first is charanda, made from either molasses or fresh-pressed sugar cane. This spirit has a protected appellation of origin (AO), and can only be called charanda if it’s produced in certain parts of Michoacán.
In the moutains of Oaxaca, a rum revolution is gathering steam.
A second style is locally called aguardiente, also known as Mexican agricole. Much of this liquor comes from mountainous areas in Oaxaca, where fresh-pressed aguardiente de caña is made in a manner akin to Martinican rhum agricole and Brazilian cachaça.
Sugarcane was first brought to Mexico by the Spanish. Over the next century, liquor production grew rapidly. Despite its popularity, Mexico’s growing liquor industry was hit by a royal prohibition to protect public morals and the interests of Spanish merchants, driving production underground.
Fortunately, as with many alcohol prohibitions around the world, people found a way to keep recipes and traditions alive. In Mexico, people made rum at home in secret small pot stills. This activity has kept the legacy of rum in Mexico alive.
Centuries later, Mexican sugarcane rum hit another hurdle with the introduction of NAFTA in 1994. Major transnational alcohol brands arrived with aggressive prices, marketing and branding. Mexican companies adjusted their prices to compete with foreign brands, going for volume over quality. This in turn reduced their margins and options for innovation. Overall, these developments led to a stigma of low quality around Mexican cane spirits.
Mexican rum is made from traditional sugarcanes, unlike most famous Caribbean rums which use molasses.
In the past decade, consumer preferences have begun to change. A major shift towards craft production has swept through the liquor industry, with mezcal serving as the movement’s poster child. Underdog spirits such as raicilla and sotol have been on the rise, and Mexican sugarcane spirits are not far behind.
Small-batch cane spirit production draws many comparisons with traditional agave spirits. Production facilities are often far from the cities. Distillation traditions vary by location, creating a wide diversity of style and flavor. Ellisandro Gonzalez, who produces Dakabend sugarcane rum, explains that “rum from this part of the land will taste different than the next because the soil is different [and] the microclimates are different.”
Alongside Dakabend, Camazotz is one of the first of the new wave of Mexican rums reaching the international market. It was developed by Melanie Symonds, founder of Quiquiriqui mezcal, and partner Charles Koutris. Together they have led the way for deeply flavorful craft sugarcane rum to reach the United States, United Kingdom and beyond.
Symonds explains that she became interested in the idea around 2016. “There was a lot of industrially produced aguardiente de caña in the region, which isn’t great, but occasionally I’d visit a village to meet a mezcal producer and someone would bring over a plastic bottle that had the unmistakable smell of an agricole-style rum, something I have always loved!”
She asked the mezcal producers she works with to keep an eye out for small, traditional cane spirit producers. This went on for over a year, due to the challenges of reaching these producers whose products rarely made it out of the local area. She explains this was “much like mezcal back in the early 2010’s when you could drive off from Oaxaca city and follow the smoke plumes in the hills and there you’d find a magical palenque making beautiful liquid, untouched by the grubby hands of commercialization.”
In 2018 she was given a trio of samples made by a producer from a remote, steep, area of the Sierra Mixe, in eastern Oaxaca. Symonds remembers that “as soon as I opened one of them, there was the unmistakable smell of agricole.” This unique profile is what she then pursued for her sugarcane rum brand, Camazotz.
The day after she tried the sample, she took off on a four hour journey to the highest region of Oaxaca. “We arrived and met the producer of the rum, Leoncio Gaspar, at his family home, along with his wife and son. Leo learned to make rum from his father and has worked most of his life making rum at the family ranch, Punto Fiero, in the valley next to his village.”
The rum is often still made in traditional pots and with traditional tools.
Gaspar and his family grow their cane organically, without using pesticides or fertilizers. It takes approximately eighteen months to reach maturity and reaches up to three meters. Gaspar and his team harvest the cane by hand.
The area of Gaspar’s distillation is extremely remote, you need to hike for several hours down a mountain trail to reach his ranch. The setup at Punto Fiero hasn’t changed since his father was head distiller. They have a mule pulled cane press, fermenting tubs and a clay pot for distilling.
The press he uses at the family ranch is around 80 years old and is worked by Gaspar and the mule. The cane is fed into one side and pulled out of the other side, this is repeated to maximize the collection of the juice. One kilo of sugarcane yields approximately 700 milliliters of raw juice.
The juice is collected in a tub ready for fermentation. Symonds describes how “a bunch of the crushed cane is always added to the juice to kickstart the fermentation.” This helps the ambient yeasts relied on for this artisanal process. The ferment takes around 5 days to a few weeks, a time frame dependent on the outside temperature at the time of production.
One kilo of sugarcane yields around 700 milliliters of raw juice and takes up to eighteen months to grow to maturity.
Symonds says that the surrounding flora and fauna also have a dramatic impact on the wild yeast and therefore the flavor imparted through the fermentation. The ranch is surrounded by a very old wild banana plantation which plays an important role in the development of the unique flavor found in Camazotz.
The challenges for Symonds and Camazotz have been significant. “I can’t explain the difficulties of getting this rum to where we have,” she says, “from the remote location and hard work to produce the rum, trying to navigate a truck on the clifftop trails to collect it, to the ridiculous taxes and legal restrictions in place when you try and export. It’s way harder to export than mezcal because it does not have an AO. Mexican Customs have no idea what it is and we have had instances where they won’t let it leave port because we don’t have a certificate from the AO governing body. Hopefully as more people discover Oaxacan rum, this will change and it will become easier.”
Since Camazotz launched in 2019, they have sold to the USA, UK and Europe. Symonds also recognises the appeal for mezcal lovers “because of the hand made process and the similarities in how terroir affects the flavor.” She accepts that it “definitely helps having Quiquiriqui as the sister brand as it opens up introductions and often, where people say they hate rum and only drink agave, we find once they try it they are converted!”
She was reminded of launching her mezcal brand before many people knew what it was. It’s exciting and it feels extra special when you know the hard work it takes to get that liquid into a bottle. Leo’s face when we first took him a labeled bottle with his name on was also a special moment.”
Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.
Mexico and Canada celebrate 80 years of diplomatic relations this year. (Canada in Mexico/X)
On a late January day in 1944 – the same day that a British bomber sank a German U-boat in the Bay of Biscay as World War II continued to rage – Mexico and Canada established diplomatic relations.
Now, in 2024, the two countries are celebrating the 80th anniversary of that milestone with a range of events, including a photographic exhibition inaugurated by Canadian Foreign Minister Mélanie Joly during her visit to Mexico City in late June.
President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum and Foreign Affairs Minister Mélanie Joly met in late June, accompanied by Sheinbaum’s future foreign affairs minister, Juan Ramón de la Fuente (left) and Canadian Ambassador Graeme C. Clark (right). (Mélanie Joly/X)
This week, Mexico News Daily is joining the celebrations with a series of “Canada in Focus” articles, each of which explores connections between Mexico and Canada.
As we’ve done in previous editions of our Global Mexico series, we’re kicking things off by delving into the history of Mexico-Canada relations, and examining the state of the bilateral relationship today.
A brief history of Mexico-Canada relations
While the formal diplomatic relationship between Mexico and Canada began 80 years ago, their commercial relationship dates back even further.
Porfirio Díaz ruled Mexico for three decades in the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Canadian investment in Mexico began during this period. (Wikimedia Commons)
During the Porfiriato — the three-decade period in the late 19th century and early 20th century when Porfirio Diáz was president of Mexico — Canadian investment began flowing into the country.
“At that time, Canada played a significant role in Mexico through major infrastructure projects including railways, urban transportation, hydro-electrification, water treatment and the establishment of the banking system,” Sandra Fuentes, a former Mexican ambassador to Canada, wrote in an article published in the magazine Voices of Mexico.
Companies such as Mexican Light and Power Company, Mexico Tramways Company and Mexico North Western Railway were founded with Canadian money around this time.
Díaz was ousted at the start of the Mexican Revolution, and the decade-long conflict that ensued was a major impediment to Canadian investment in Mexico.
A Canadian share of the Mexico North Western Rail Company dated 1909. (Wikimedia Commons)
In 1938, almost two decades after the end of the Mexican Revolution, President Lázaro Cárdenas nationalized Mexico’s oil industry and expropriated the assets of foreign petroleum companies. Canada cited that decision as a reason for holding off on establishing diplomatic relations with Mexico at a time when it was formalizing ties with other Latin American countries, such as Argentina and Brazil.
Eventually, amid World War II, a conflict in which both Mexico and Canada participated on the Allied side, formal diplomatic relations were established.
Fuentes, the former Mexican ambassador, wrote that “one would have thought that there would have been a flurry of activity between the two countries” after the commencement of diplomatic relations.
“But this was not so,” she said. “In fact, over the next 30 years, while the two countries often shared similar views on major issues of the times, … bilateral interaction was very limited.”
Despite that, it was in this period that a Mexican president and a Canadian prime minister came face to face for the first time. Adolfo Ruiz Cortines met Louis St. Laurent at a trilateral meeting in 1956 organized by United States president Dwight D. Eisenhower.
At that meeting, held in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, the Mexican and Canadian leaders raised with Eisenhower “similar concerns related to their proximity to their powerful neighbor, such as environmental issues, illegal fishing by American vessels and the temporary employment of Mexican workers,” wrote Fuentes, citing Ruiz’s 1956 report to the nation.
Mexico’s President Adolfo Ruiz Cortines (left) and Canada’s Prime Minister Louis St. Laurent were the first leaders of the two nations to meet in person in 1956. (Wikimedia Commons/MND)
In 1959, Adolfo López Mateos became the first Mexican president to make an official visit to Canada. Canadian prime minister John Diefenbaker reciprocated by coming to Mexico the following year.
Many other Mexican and Canadian heads of state subsequently met during visits to each other’s countries.
In 1968 — an especially tragic year in Mexico due to the Tlatelolco massacre just before the start of the Mexico City Olympics — a joint Mexico-Canada ministerial committee was established, providing a forum for biennial meetings between officials from the two countries.
A significant development in the bilateral relationship occurred in 1974 when the governments of Mexico and Canada signed a memorandum of understanding that established the Mexico-Canada Seasonal Agricultural Worker Program (SAWP).
Just over 200 Mexican workers went to Canada in the program’s inaugural year, while more than 26,000 will participate during this 50th anniversary year, according to the Mexican government.
“Over the last five decades, 522,628 employment contracts have been arranged, benefiting an equal number of families,” the government said in a recent statement.
Canadian Ambassador Graeme C. Clark (far right) at a sendoff for 92 Mexican workers heading to Canada. (Canada in Mexico/X)
Mexico and Canada entered into a range of other agreements facilitating cooperation in various fields in the years and decades after the SAWP was established. They include a cultural agreement, signed in 1976, and an environmental cooperation agreement, reached in 1990.
The relationship, however, was turbocharged when the two countries, together with the United States, signed the North American Free Trade Agreement, or NAFTA, which took effect on Jan. 1, 1994.
Trade between Mexico, Canada and the United States is now governed by the USMCA, which superseded NAFTA in 2020. The free trade pact is known as T-MEC in Mexico and CUSMA in Canada.
The bilateral relationship in the NAFTA and USMCA era
Trade
The trade relationship between Mexico and Canada has increased significantly in the 30 years since NAFTA took effect.
Canada is the second largest destination for Mexican exports, after the United States.
According to the Canadian government, Mexico is Canada’s third largest single-country trading partner after the U.S. and China, while Canada is Mexico’s fourth-largest trading partner.
Major Mexican exports to Canada include motor vehicles, auto parts, alcoholic beverages and agricultural products such as fruit. Among Canada’s exports to Mexico are auto parts, aluminum, steel, wheat and rapeseed.
Canada was the third-largest investor in Mexico in 2023. (SE)
Economy Ministry data shows that Canadian investment totaled $3.47 billion last year, or almost 10% of Mexico’s FDI.
Among the major Canadian companies that operate in Mexico are Scotiabank, TC Energy and Bombardier.
A number of large Canadian mining companies also have a presence in Mexico. Some have faced criticism for reasons that include alleged damage of the environment, such as water contamination, and failure to pay taxes.
For its part, the Canadian government says that “Canadian investors play an important role in economic development and employment in Mexico, sometimes in isolated and marginalized regions.”
“Canadian companies are committed to operate under the principles of responsible business conduct, and contribute through their programs not only to employment, but also to education, sustainable development and the well-being of individuals and communities,” it adds.
Among the Mexican companies that operate in Canada are baked goods company Grupo Bimbo, which owns Bimbo Canada, building materials company Cemex and mining company Grupo México.
The Canada-Mexico Partnership and the Canada-Mexico Action Plan
Launched in 2004, the Canada-Mexico Partnership is the “key mechanism for bilateral cooperation” between the two countries, according to the Canadian government.
“It serves as a catalyst for concerted action between our governments, private sectors, and non-governmental partners to pursue common goals and mutually beneficial priorities,” the Canadian government says.
President López Obrador with U.S. President Joe Biden and Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau at the North American Leaders’ Summit in 2023. (LopezObrador.org.mx)
Mexican and Canadian officials frequently engage at bilateral, trilateral and multilateral meetings.
After the trilateral North American Leaders’ Summit in Mexico City in January 2023, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador and Prime Minister Justin Trudeau held a bilateral meeting and subsequently announced a new “Canada-Mexico Action Plan.”
The plan established “a strengthened partnership built on 9 pillars that outlines our citizens’ priorities and the initiatives that will advance them,” according to the Mexican and Canadian governments.
Those pillars are:
Reconciliation with Indigenous Peoples
Gender equality and women’s empowerment
Trade and investment
Anti-racism
Youth engagement
Peace and security
Tourism, migration and human mobility
Environment and climate change
Cooperation in the face of future health crises
Cooperation in multilateral forums
Mexico and Canada collaborate on various issues in a range of multilateral forums including the G20, the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) and the United Nations.
While the USMCA is the main instrument that governs trade between Mexico and Canada, both countries are also signatories to the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership, or CPTPP.
Mexico and Canada collaborated on a complaint against the United States over the interpretation of auto-sector content rules under the USMCA. They prevailed in that dispute early last year.
Challenges and disagreements in the bilateral relationship
While Mexico and Canada are trade partners and friends, there have been – and are – some challenges in the bilateral relationship arising from disagreements between the two countries.
When the Canadian government announced in February that it was ending visa-free travel to Canada for some Mexican citizens after an increase in asylum claims by Mexicans, Mexico’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs said in a statement that Mexico “regrets” the decision “and believes that there were other options available before putting this measure in place.”
Mexico and Canada remain engaged in a dispute over the former country’s nationalistic energy policies. Canada joined the United States in 2022 in seeking dispute settlement consultations with Mexico over its policies that favor state-owned firms over private and foreign companies.
Among the previous disputes between the two countries is one long-lasting one over potatoes.
Views of political leaders and ambassadors
The last time President Andrés Manuel López Obrador and Prime Minister Justin Trudeau met face-to-face was in San Francisco last November during the 2023 APEC summit.
At the time, López Obrador said that Mexico’s “relationship with the people of Canada is a very good one, and that the trade relationship is fundamental for the development and prosperity of the North American people and region.”
During an address in Mexico City in January 2023, Trudeau said that trade between Canada and Mexico had increased “more than ninefold” since NAFTA took effect, but asserted that there is still “huge potential for growth between our countries.”
“… Let us continue this momentum. Let us keep doing what [North American] leaders did a generation ago: hold fast to a belief in open trade and collaboration” he said.
Mexico’s ambassador to Canada, Carlos Joaquín, described Mexico as a “strategic ally for Canada.” (Gob MX)
In a message included in the 2023 report “Mexico and Canada: Two Nations in a North American Partnership,” Canadian Ambassador to Mexico Graeme Clark wrote that the two countries “have become indispensable friends, partners and allies” since formal diplomatic ties were established in 1944.
“Canada and Mexico are two countries sharing not only a continent but also a solid friendship that has continued to grow over the years, and which includes strong cooperation on a wide range of issues: trade, culture, Indigenous empowerment, human rights, gender equality, and much more,” Clark wrote.
In the same report, Mexican Ambassador to Canada Carlos Joaquín described Mexico as a “strategic ally for Canada” and noted that the two countries “share various mechanisms to promote dialogue and cooperation throughout their relationship.”
“Both face the 21st century with enormous challenges, but the strength of their relationship must be the roadmap that leads to understanding in the coming years,” Joaquin wrote.
By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies (peter.davies@mexiconewsdaily.com)
The 20-year-old airport has seen a consistent increase in passengers, both national and international, since completing renovations in December 2023. (Demian Chávez/Cuartoscuro)
Querétaro International Airport (QIA) saw international passenger traffic increase by 47% annually in January 2024, just one month after the airport completed a US $80-million renovation project.
Domestic arrivals are also up at QIA, and overall traffic at the newly renovated airport is projected to reach 2 million passengers in 2024.
Aeromexico recently relaunched its Querétaro-Atlanta route from QIA. (@AIQ_MX/X)
The Federal Civil Aviation Agency reported that 51,200 international passengers arrived at the 20-year-old airport in January, up 47.2% over the 34,800 international arrivals in January 2023. And from January through April of this year, 205,142 international travelers touched down at the Querétaro airport, representing a 60.4% increase over the 127,906 international arrivals during the first four months of 2023.
After the renovations were completed in December, several airlines added new international routes. Viva Aerobus now flies to San Antonio and Houston from QIA, and Aeromexico flies from QIA to Detroit and Atlanta.
Domestic arrivals during the first four months this year increased by a comparatively modest 11.2% over the January-April 2023 figures, but domestic traffic makes up the majority of total passengers at QIA. Of the 594,152 passengers arriving at the QIA during the January-April 2024 period, 389,010 — or 65% — were Mexican nationals.
Querétaro’s Sustainable Development Minister Marco Antonio Del Prete predicted last week that overall traffic at the airport could surpass 2 million this year, a number that would represent a 13% increase over 2023, when 1.7 million passengers traveled through QIA.
“We are seeing 20% growth in passenger traffic over last year,” del Prete said at a press event, taking into account the unofficial data for May.
The second phase of the aforementioned renovation project includes the expansion of the existing terminal as well as the installation of new jetways. A new waiting room will accommodate 500 additional passengers, while the jetways and additional screening centers will facilitate the movement of the increased numbers of travelers.
Festival celebrations happen throughout the whole month of July, including food fairs, parades, music, dance, competitions and visual arts exhibitions. (@GobOax/X)
Oaxaca City is expecting to draw 139,000 tourists throughout July as it prepares to celebrate the 92nd edition of La Guelaguetza, the city’s biggest cultural event, from July 22-29.
Also known as los Lunes del Cerro (Mondays on the Hill), the festival showcases the cultural heritage and traditions of eight Indigenous communities of Oaxaca.
La Guelaguetza has its origins in an Indigenous Zapotec ritual celebrating Centéotl, the corn goddess. (@GobOax/X)
Representatives of the state’s Tourism Ministry (Sectur) said in a press conference that the city is expecting 517 million pesos (US $28.7 million) in tourism revenue between July 19 and 29, and an average hotel occupancy of 81%.
“The revenue is usually significant during the July holidays, as well as on Day of the Dead, in December, and during the Holy Week season, which also register high occupancy rates,” said Tourism Promotion Minister Ángel Norberto Osorio Morales.
The week-long festival has its origins in a Zapotec ritual called Daninayaaloani or “Hill of the Beautiful View” in honor of Centéotl, the corn goddess. During this ritual, people gathered to share offerings, eat food and dance over eight days. After the Spanish conquest, the festival transitioned to a Catholic celebration and is now part of the popular rites of the Virgin of Carmen. La Guelaguetza, as it is known today, is celebrated on the two Mondays closest to the Catholic Day of our Lady of Carmen on July 16.
However, celebrations for La Guelaguetza happen throughout the whole month of July, including food fairs, parades, musical concerts, dance performances and visual arts exhibitions.
La Guelaguetza is celebrated at the “Guelaguetza Auditorium” atop Cerro del Fortín, a hill overlooking Oaxaca City. (Carolina Jiménez/Cuartoscuro)
The name of the festival is inspired by the Zapotec word “guendalezaa,” which translates into Spanish as “offering, present or fulfillment.” It refers to the offerings the Indigenous people of Oaxaca took to the capital in 1932 to commemorate the 400-year anniversary of the city of Oaxaca.
The first performance called Bani Stai Gulal, which means repetition of the old, takes place two Saturdays before the first Monday of La Guelaguetza (July 13) and is a dance depicting four eras in Oaxaca: Pre-Columbian, Colonial, Independent Mexico and the Contemporary Era.
Hill Monday starts at dawn on the first day of La Guelaguetza (July 22). Throughout the day, performers gather to play las mañanitas (Mexico’s Happy Birthday song), signaling that it is time to go to Cerro del Fortín, a hill overlooking the city.
The remainder of the festival takes place in the “Guelaguetza Auditorium” atop Cerro del Fortín.
After suffering an injury in a cycling accident, Bel Woohouse experienced top class medical care on the island of Cozumel. (Artur Tumasjan/Unsplash)
When I say to people “I’m glad I had my accident in Mexico” they usually look at me like I grew a second head. But I’m serious. The level of professionalism, attention, rapid response, and modern equipment was mind-boggling. To this day I still don’t know what half the gadgets were but they were all shiny and clean. I can say with confidence that hospital care in Cozumel was better (and cheaper) than I could ever have dreamed of.
If you’ve ever thought that healthcare in Mexico might be a bit backwards, let me share my story with you and change your mind. Here’s what happened…
Cozumel is an island paradise, but you’d think it was a terrible place to suffer a serious injury, right? (Conanp)
Just over a year ago, I had a bicycle accident on Cozumel island in the Riviera Maya region of Mexico. People ran out of a nearby shop to help pick me up while one lovely Mexican lady asked if she could drive me to the ER as she was looking at my arm.
Following her gaze and looking down, my arm was at a very awkward angle and said “That can’t be good.” So of course, my answer was, “Yes please.”
While others took my bicycle into the store for safekeeping, we went to the hospital. Walking into the ER a nurse listened as the lady told him in Spanish what had happened. If I weren’t in pain it would have been comical. There were lots of gasps, arms waving and gestures, it was a fun re-enactment of my accident.
Shown straight to a bed an English-speaking Doctor arrived moments later. With a warm smile and a “Tell me what happened” it finally hit me, I was in the ER. So, trying to be stoic (and failing) the whole story poured out while he held my hand.
Cozumel has a modern hospital with state of the art facilities. (International Hospital Cozumel)
With a nod and an “Everything will be alright, we will take care of you,” the room became a hive of activity. The nurse took a full medical history to ensure nothing would clash with the pain meds waiting on a tray. An orthopaedic surgeon was called who turned up promptly to give an exam as well as review my chart with the nurse.
I just lay there amazed at all of the fuss, reclining in the bed wishing I wasn’t still in sweaty bicycle riding gear wondering if anyone had deodorant. Isn’t it silly the things we think of?
Next came a visit to the x-ray technicians who were waiting for me at the door. Honestly, I felt like a bit of a VIP as one thing after the other was immediate, not a line or wait time in sight. Running smoothly like a well oiled machine I can honestly say it was the safest and most comforting experience you could wish for.
My only concern was when the Orthopaedic surgeon told me he’d have to put me under to pop my elbow back into place. No breaks thankfully, just an elbow going the wrong way. But that did mean anesthetic. For me, that is a problem. My family’s one and only health issue is with blood clotting so the mix of anaesthetic drugs can be an issue.
The operation was quick, easy and safe thanks to the high standards of care available in Mexico. (Piromn Guillaume/Unsplash)
But the anaesthetist arrived at my bedside, carefully listening to my concerns and even asking me to write the name of my condition and its variant form on the chart so there could be no miscommunication between English and Spanish.
Which I will admit, put my mind at ease so when it came time for the anaesthetic to be administered my anxiety had dropped to a minimum. My last sight was of the nurse by my side, the surgeon smiling down on me, and the anesthetist holding my hand.
Then black.
When I came to everything was quiet. They’d even dimmed the lights in my room and drawn the curtain so waking up would be as comfortable as possible. It took the scariness out of the whole event.
Most of all, my greatest appreciation was the fact that they made it relaxed and peaceful. Down to the fact that the procedure was done in my ER bed. Not in a scary operating room where everything seems a lot worse to my overactive imagination. I mean, an operating room is where you go when it’s really serious right?!
After all, it was just a popped-out elbow going the wrong way, no bones were sticking out or anything dramatic so I was thankful just to lay in my bed on a fuzzy cloud of almost consciousness.
By the end of the day all I wanted was to go home, have a shower and finally get out of sweaty bicycle riding clothes. So, closing my eyes in anticipation, I asked for the bill and discharge forms.
When the bill came I almost fell out of bed. It was so cheap, surely it must be wrong.
The total was US $350 for everything! Jaw-droppingly inexpensive for an entire day in the ER, Orthopedic surgeon, nurses, x-rays, special anesthetic drugs, and excellent care.
As I said, that was just over a year ago, so the price may have gone up a smidge but I guarantee the staff would still be just as wonderful.
So, if you ever wondered about the hospital care in Mexico, I can tell you that even on Cozumel island in the Mexican Caribbean, it’s excellent.
Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.
Most of Mexico will see rain throughout the week as Hurricane Beryl moves north and another tropical wave enters Yucatán. (Margarito Pérez Retana/Cuartoscuro)
Get your umbrellas ready for another rainy week.
The National Meteorological System (SMN) has forecast that on Monday, the remnants of Hurricane Beryl — which is currently traveling through Texas — will cause strong gusts of wind and waves of 1 to 2 meters high on the northern coast of Tamaulipas, as well as heavy rains in the northeast part of Mexico.
Meanwhile, tropical wave number 8 is moving over the Yucatán Peninsula, bringing heavy rains to Chiapas, Oaxaca, Tabasco and Veracruz. It may also cause wind gusts of 40 to 60 km/h and possibly waterspouts off the coast of Campeche, Tabasco and Yucatán.
Starting Monday, heavy to very heavy rains are expected in Durango, Guerrero, Jalisco, Michoacán, Morelos, Nayarit, Puebla, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Colima, Guanajuato, Sonora, Tlaxcala and Zacatecas. Scattered storms are forecast in Aguascalientes, Mexico City, México state and San Luis Potosí.
In the north and center of the country, rains may be accompanied by hail and lightning.
The SMN has warned residents that heavy rains may reduce visibility, cause flooding and landslides and increase river and stream levels.
Mexico has seen extraordinary rain in the past few weeks. According to the National Water Commission (Conagua),Mexico had its rainiest June in more than 80 years, which has helped replenish the country’s reservoirs.
The forecast for the rest of July predicts consistent rain, with some models predicting rainfall well above average in many parts of Mexico.
Tropical Storm Alberto brought heavy rains in the northern states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas, helping to refill dams that were at low capacity throughout the first half of 2024. (Samuel García/X)
Despite the rain, some regions are still scorching
Despite the rain, hot to very hot weather will continue in the northwest as well as in the north and northeast regions of the country.
Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Tamaulipas, Sinaloa and Sonora may see maximum temperatures reach between 40 to 45 degrees Celsius, with Baja California and Baja California Sur forecast to feel scorching temperatures ranging between 45 to 52 degrees Celsius.
Durango, Guerrero and Michoacán will have temperatures between 35 to 40 degrees Celsius.
Meanwhile, Mexico’s east and west coast states, as well as parts of the Bajío, will see temperatures range between 30 to 35 degrees Celsius.
Oceanside paradise meets Maya tradition in Yucatán, the first stop on our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 guide. (Barceló)
There are places in Mexico that not only defy deeply held views about Mexico but challenge whether a place easily fits into our understanding of Mexico’s national identity. Yucatán is the smallest of the three Peninsula States, part of a thumb-shaped peninsula that separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Caribbean. But it’s the home of a foundational Mesoamerican culture (the Maya), once held one of the richest cities in the Western Hemisphere, and is a place where physical isolation historically begat a cultural wellspring unmatched across Mexico. It’s a country within a country and has twice proclaimed in the 19th century its independence from Mexico as the Republic of Yucatan.
Let’s explore three Yucatan State locations ideal for short or long-term living: urban Mérida, beachy Progreso, and the colonial town of Valladolid.
Mérida
Historic Mérida is the jewel in the crown of Yucatán state. (The Beach Tulum)
Just about every visitor or transplant will immediately exalt Yucatan’s many, many assets. And the next thing (inevitably) is “But the heat!” Soaring temperatures and humility (and hurricanes) can be insurmountable challenges for many, earning the State a “2” Climate ranking (our lowest) for year-round living. A daily, annual mean temperature of 28 Celcius (82 F) (soaring near 38C (100F) in spring months), eyewatering humidity averaging 70%, and 40 inches of (sometimes) cooling rain, means you’ll learn fast to let this climatic obstacle go (when you live here) and instead celebrate Mérida’s compensatory quality of life advantages. In 2022, the United Nations Habitat City Prosperity Index recognized Mérida as the city with the highest quality of life in Mexico.
Mérida is Mayan at its heart, the largest urban concentration of Mayan Amerindians in all the world. The city (population 920,000; 1.3 million in greater area) is strewn with archaeological sites and enveloped in contemporary Maya culture. Maya speech permeates the city’s markets, and traditional Maya styles of dress prevail, along with Yucatecan (and international) cultural events. A uniquely Yucatecan manner of speaking and wicked sense of humor (Bomba!) add to the linguistic adventure and jovial nature of “Meridanos”.
A uniquely Yucatecan look and feel permeate the historic downtown — parks, plazas, the once palatial Paseo Montejo, French and Italian-styled mansions, and leafy “colonias.” Some call it “criollo,” a syncretism over centuries of Spanish-Mayan cultural mash-up laced with a 19th-century flood of wealth from an agricultural boom that bejeweled the city with exquisite European architectural gems.
Many choose to live in the city’s grid-like urban core (some restore colonial era homes), while others find green and shady residential neighborhoods with yards, parks and an almost mandatory dipping pool to cool off. North-south traffic can be maddening, and getting into and out of the historic downtown core with your own car has its challenges. But public bus transportation is frequent and inexpensive. The sprawling city is tortilla flat and its grid layout is easy to navigate on foot.
The fusion of colonial charm and deep rooted tradition found in Mérida is hard to replicate anywhere else in the country. (Like Where You’re Going)
With universities (over 20), museums and performing arts fueling a steady agenda of things to do, you’ll also find an expat community hailing from around the world. Many expat entrepreneurs operate retail businesses. Most who have parachuted into living here are extroverted in their civic pride, volunteer activities, social calendars, and penchant for outings to explore Yucatan’s colonial villages, cenotes, haciendas, beach towns, birdwatching natural areas, and Mayan archaeological treasures. The city’s baseball and futból teams (and fine stadiums) are another popular pastime.
The dining scene is sophisticated, reflecting Yucatecan ingredients and culinary traditions, found at celebrity-chef restaurants and bustling food stalls. Modern malls, Mayan mercados, and box stores (plus the world’s only Costco location with a cenote in the parking lot) are part of the weekly routine for many foreign-born transplants. It’s worth noting that Yucatan State is generally considered Mexico’s safest, a point often cited by thousands of migrants from other parts of Mexico. Mérida’s hospitals are the highest rated in Mexico’s southeast.
Progreso
Quiet Progreso, Yucatán plays host to a large snowbird population during the winter months. (Feather and the Wind)
Mérida is not on the coast, but another viable location for transplants in the port city of Progreso, a 45-minute drive to the north. Population 37,000 (not counting hundreds of U.S. and Canadian, mostly seasonal residents), Progreso is on every Meridano’s escape-to-the-beach route for seaside fun and (somewhat) cooler temperatures. As a commercial and passenger cruise port, Progreso has an attractive Gulf of Mexico-facing pedestrian seafront, white sand lapped by emerald Gulf waters, and a bustling high-season and holiday commercial vibe (especially on weekends).
Foreigners living here (a fraction of the Mérida expat community) tend to be beach focused. The closer you live to the coast, the higher the prices are.
It’s common to have village-like social connections with your Mexican neighbors. Non-profits like the Progreso Apoyo Program can help with education, volunteering and meeting folks. Note how when the snowbirds pick up and leave (during March and April), the town’s commercial pace settles into quiet weekdays interrupted by the weekend and holiday “invasions” from Mérida.
Valladolid
The San Bernardino convent in Valladolid, a highlight of this charming magic town. (Goats on the Road)
Smaller coastal and inland towns also find their share of foreign-born transplants, many of whom wander back north during summer (heat) and fall (hurricane) seasons. Valladolid certainly deserves a call-out, as it is located in eastern Yucatan State and is the halfway point between Mérida and Cancun. Population 56,000, Valladolid is a popular day trip spot for Cancun/Riviera Maya vacationers — with more coming thanks to a Tren Maya railway stop here. Vacationers come for cenote swimming, Mayan ruins, Spanish colonial architecture, and an energetic village vibe. It’s very walkable, with easy biking options too.
Folks moving here skew a bit more European-South American, likely resulting from the town being closer to the Mexican Caribbean coast and the Cancún Airport. A Pueblo Magico designation in 2012 has brought positive changes, municipal beautification, public concerts, and investment. A growing local artisan movement, galleries (including Mexico’s finest private collection of folk art, Casa de los Venados), and more international dining are positive changes for a town founded in 1543! Calzada de los Frailes is lined with dining, galleries and local bars. Rents and home purchases carry lower costs here than urban Mérida or beachy Progreso.
You’ll have shopping options from a well-stocked Chedraui to a robust mercado municipal and weekly tianguis street markets. Two hospital options (one private) provide care and access to some specialized medicine. No longer an “outpost,” Valladolid is growing up and embracing its 21st-century integration into Mexico’s national tourism economy.
The ratings
What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.
Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.
Lime. Chili. Seafood. Tortilla. These are the basic buidling blocks of the miracle that is Mexican cuisine. (Mi Compa Chava/Instagram)
Mexican culinary mastery needs no introduction, particularly following the fanfare over the country’s recent cascade of Michelin accolades. Covering every point of the spectrum between simple to complex dishes, delicious regional masterpieces abound, encompassing expansive flavors, unique textures and ingredients of enviable quality. Amongst these incredible dishes, Mexican seafood sits at the very top of the pile.
And as might be expected with the aquatic glory of its Pacific and Atlantic coastal regions and diverse inland bodies of water, Mexico’s seafood dishes sparkle. An astounding 2,692 species of fish live in Mexico, encompassing over 10% of the world’s fish diversity. With such a wealth of options, Mexican kitchen aficionados from abuelitas to master chefs have perfected seafood selection and preparation.
Among the hundreds of mouthwatering options to tantalize the palate with, are several iconic delicacies that you must cross off your culinary bucket list. Below, we bring the top nine must-try classic Mexican seafood dishes.
Baja-style fish tacos
It’s like fish and chips, but in a taco. And better. (La Ruta de la Garnacha)
Born on the sunny shores of Ensenada in Baja California, these crispy, smoothly battered fish morsels tucked into warm tortillas have been a coastal staple since the 1950s. Legend has it that Japanese fishermen introduced the concept of tempura to Mexican cooks, giving rise to this crowd-pleasing explosion of textures and flavor. The tacos are at times made with shrimp, but most often made with a firm, flaky white-fleshed fish, typically a local catfish, mahi-mahi, tilapia or cod, and adorned with tangy slaw, lime and zesty crema. Sometimes called Ensenada-style fish tacos, these crispy treasures are a popular must-try, whether on the beach or inland.
Ceviche de sierra
Ceviche is one of Mexico’s defining dishes, for very good reason. (El Sol de Mazatlan)
Ceviche has roots tracing back to the ancient civilizations of coastal Peru, and has since been adopted – and adapted– into Mexican culture. As its name would suggest, ceviche de sierra showcases the Pacific sierra, a mackerel prized for its firm texture and rich flavor. Nearly all ceviches utilize the alchemical process of lime-juice cooking, and this variation combines chunks of sierra with crisp onions, juicy tomatoes and fragrant cilantro. Originating in the coastal regions of states like Nayarit and Sinaloa, this zesty dish is not to be missed.
Huachinango a la veracruzana
Straight from the Caribbean to your plate, huachinango is a vibrant melting pot of flavor – literally. (H-E-B)
Veracruz is known as a tropical melting pot, and nowhere is this more apparent than in the region’s most famed culinary staple. Huachinango a la veracruzana emerged in the 16th century colonial era when Spanish conquistadors and indigenous cooks began blending their culinary traditions. Developed in the port city of Veracruz, it reflects the influence of Spanish, African and Indigenous cuisines found in the city, with its huachinango fish — red snapper — swimming in a luscious sauce that marries land and sea in a blend of tomatoes, olives and capers.
Pescado or pulpo zarandeado
While the Huichol people are best known for their stunning art, their fish are every bit as good. (Marcus Nilsson/Bon Appétit)
Originating from the Pacific coast state of Nayarit, the traditional zarandeado grilling technique was perfected by the indigenous Wixárika (Huichol) people. Over generations, this dish has evolved into the perfect balance of char and succulence that speaks to Mexico’s mastery of fire and flavor. Butterflied fish or octopus is basted with a chili-laced marinade, then slow-cooked over smoking coals on a zaranda grill. The result is a lightly charred exterior that opens into a perfectly juicy interior, enhanced with flavorful spices and notes of citrus.
Ceviche de Colima
Often overlooked, the Colima-style ceviche is a great reason to look twice at this tiny slice of the Pacific coast. (Cocina Casera)
Hailing from the small but gastronomically mighty state of Colima, this regional specialty elevates ceviche to a crunchy art form. Often combining a medley of local fish like dorado (mahi-mahi) or róbalo (snook), Colima-style ceviche is distinguished by its finely diced ingredients including tomato, onion, cilantro, green chiles, carrots and cucumber, lending the dish a subtle sweetness and extra crisp. The dish reflects Colima’s unique culinary identity, shaped by its coastline and the influence of pre-Hispanic and colonial traditions. It’s a divine explosion of freshness and texture on the tongue.
Caldo de camarón or pescado
From humble beginnings, the caldo de camarón has become a national comfort food. (MAMÁ CONEJA)
A twist on your typical veggie or chicken-based broth, this soul-warming soup with pre-Columbian origins has nourished coastal communities for centuries. Brimming with plump shrimp or tender fish morsels or both, vegetables and aromatic herbs, it offers comfort, a bit of spice and depth in every spoonful. It’s also a fine way to utilize the most flavorful parts of fish which are typically discarded, such as the head and tail. Originally a humble fisherman’s meal, it has become a beloved staple across Mexico, with each region adding its own twist to this hearty classic.
Aguachile
Limes, chilis, onion and fish combine to produce a bowl full of heaven. (Daniel Harding)
Born in the culinary hotbed of Sinaloa, this fiery cousin to ceviche sets mouths ablaze with its ingenious combination of chili-spiked lime juice, chiltepin peppers, cucumber, red onion, ultra-fresh shrimp and raw fish. Originating as a way to preserve fish in the scorching heat through the citrus cooking technique, aguachile has evolved from a way to preserve fish into a celebrated dish that offers a refreshing kick to the taste buds, awakening the senses.
Tacos gobernador
Sinaloa strikes again, with these delicious cheese covered pieces of seafood goodness. (Maricruz Avalos Flores)
A modern classic born in Mazatlan, Sinaloa, these succulent tacos were allegedly created in the late 1980s by a Sinaloan chef for the governor’s visit to his restaurant, hence the name. Crispy griddled tortillas cradle a decadent, buttery filling of plump shrimp, poblano chilis and melted cheese, garnished with grilled peppers and onions, creating a gooey, savory indulgence that quickly became a favorite across Mexico.
Cóctel campechano
If only eating leftovers was this delicious all the time! (TV Pacifico)
Named after the port city of Campeche, in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, this seafood lover’s dream showcases the bounty of the Gulf of Mexico. The cocktail-style dish emerged in the mid-20th century as a way to use up leftover seafood, quickly becoming a beloved hangover cure and beachside refresher. Featuring a mix of ocean treasures from shrimp to octopus to fish swimming in a vibrant, tomato-based sauce spiked with citrus and chili, it offers a refreshing and complex set of flavors in every bite.
From the coastal specialties of the Baja peninsula to the treasures of the Gulf, Mexico’s seafood dishes offer a delicious journey through the country’s rich culinary heritage. Each recipe tells a story of cultural fusion, local ingenuity and the bountiful seas that surround this diverse nation. Whether you’re savoring the crunch of a fish taco or the zesty kick of aguachile, these ten iconic dishes showcase the depth and breadth of Mexico’s seafood mastery. They invite food lovers to explore the flavors, techniques, ingredients and traditions that make Mexican seafood cuisine truly extraordinary.
What are some of your favorite Mexican seafood dishes? Have we missed any from this list? Let us know in the comments below.
Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.
Take in waterfalls, mountain views and oceanside dining with our selection of great short hikes from Puerto Vallarta. (Garza Blanca)
If you look at Puerto Vallarta and see only beach, you’re seeing it wrong. The crown of Sierra Madre mountains that wreath the historic city and loom over the sweeping Bay of Banderas are just as important a part of the Puerto Vallarta package. In those mountains, from end to end of the bay, are dozens of hiking trails beckoning the intrepid to get away from the sand and cobblestones and deep into the verdant jungle.
Puerto Vallarta and the surrounding towns have many excellent hiking trails of varying levels, whether you’re looking for a leisurely beach stroll or a vertical ascent to pump your heart rate. Here are a few of the best hikes in Puerto Vallarta.
Boca de Tomatlán to Las Animas
Length: 4.8 miles (out and back)
Start your hike in picturesque Boca de Tomatlán. (Visit Puerto Vallarta)
Let’s start with a bang, shall we? If you’re looking for a perfect blend of adventure, stunning scenery, and beachside relaxation, the hike from Boca de Tomatlán to Las Animas in Puerto Vallarta is my favorite hike.
As you set off from the trailhead at the back of the parking lot in Boca de Tomatlán, you’ll quickly immerse yourself in the jungle. The trail meanders along the stunning coastline, opening up to view after view of the Bay of Banderas.
One of the best parts of this hike is the series of pristine, undeveloped beaches you’ll encounter along the way. These hidden gems, like Playa Colomitos and Playa Caballos, offer the perfect spots for a refreshing dip or just to bask in the sun. The beaches are quiet and untouched and frequently empty of many other tourists, making you feel like you’ve landed on uncharted islands.
The hike itself is moderately challenging but worth every step. As you navigate the sometimes rocky, sometimes sandy trail, the sounds of the waves crashing and the vibrant tropical birds singing create a natural soundtrack that is nothing short of magic.
Why not call into Maraika on the way, and make a romantic oceanside meal a part of your hike? (Maraika)
After about an hour and a half to two hours of hiking, you’ll arrive at the lively and colorful Playa Las Animas. Here you can kick back and enjoy a well-deserved break. Consider stopping for lunch a few beaches prior at Casitas Maraika, a rustic-chic beachfront day club and bungalows that serves delicious seafood and incredible views.
If you want to push yourself further, you can continue past Las Animas to Playa Quimixto, a relatively quiet beach that is the perfect spot to unwind after a hike. The beach is known for its laid-back vibe, crystal clear waters, and a small village with a gorgeous waterfall. Remember that forging on to Playa Quimixto will add another two miles, one way, to the hike.
When it’s time to head back, you have several options. If you’re up for more adventure, retrace your steps and hike back to Boca de Tomatlán. Alternatively, hop on a water taxi for a quick and scenic ride back, allowing you to enjoy the coastal views from a different perspective.
Yelapa Waterfall
Length: 1.6 miles (out and back)
A trip to one of Puerto Vallarta’s most Instagrammable waterfalls is a must for any aspiring influencer. (Exploratory Glory)
The remote community of Yelapa is a favorite for Puerto Vallarta residents. Accessible only by boat (mostly), Yelapa is a small beachfront village surrounded on either side by towering mountains and sliced by a river. If you want to experience the beauty of Yelapa, the Palo Maria waterfall hike is an adventure.
Getting to Yelapa from Puerto Vallarta is part of the fun — you’ll need to take a water taxi either from Los Muertos Pier in Zona Romantica or from Boca de Tomatlan. The ride is a scenic journey along the southern coast of the Bay of Banderas, offering stunning coastal views.
Once you arrive in Yelapa, you’ll feel the laid-back vibe that feels worlds away from Puerto Vallarta. Before you head off on the hike, consider fueling up at one of the delightful beach restaurants. Cafe Bahia and Sirena Morena are great options, offering delicious, freshly prepared seafood right on the sand. If you have time, spending the night in Yelapa is a fantastic idea — several cozy guesthouses and bungalows are available.
The hike to the waterfall is a journey through Yelp’s lush landscape. As you begin, the trail winds through dense jungle with vibrant green foliage and the sounds of exotic birds. The path is well-marked, but be prepared for some rocky and uneven terrain. Sturdy shoes are a must.
Refuel at one of Yelapa’s great lunch spots, like Sirena Morena. (Sirena Morena/Instagram)
The further you go, the more you’ll feel like you’ve entered a hidden paradise. You’ll cross a few small streams and might even encounter some local wildlife along the way. The trail is shaded and cool, making it a pleasant hike even on warmer days.
After about an hour of hiking, you’ll reach the Palo Maria waterfall, a cascading force of gushing water that plunges into a cool, clear pool at the base. Stop here to cool off, picnic, or simply admire the falls. If you want, you can push yourself a bit further to keep going to a second waterfall. The hike to the second is a bit more challenging, with a steeper ascent, but the payoff is worth it.
Once you’ve soaked it in, make your way back to Yelapa. When you return to town, consider unwinding at one of the beach bars, like Chico’s Cantina.
Mirador Cerro de La Cruz
Length: 0.5 miles (loop)
Mirador el Cerro de la Cruz, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico 🇲🇽
If you’re looking for a quick but rewarding adventure without leaving Puerto Vallarta, the hike up to Mirador Cerro de la Cruz is a perfect choice. Atop a hill right in the heart of the city, this viewpoint has some of the most beautiful views over downtown Puerto Vallarta and the Bay of Banderas.
The ascent to Mirador Cerro de la Cruz is short but challenging, making it an ideal option for those who want to get their heart pumping without committing to a full-day hike. Starting from the Zona Romantica, you’ll navigate cobblestone streets and traditional houses before the real climb begins.
As you start the ascent, you’ll encounter a series of steps that wind up the hill. It’s a bit of a workout, but the payoff is absolutely worth it. Take your time and enjoy the journey — there’s no shame in stopping to catch your breath and admire the views along the way.
Once you reach the top, you’ll be greeted with visas over the entire city, the mountains, and the bay. Be sure to bring the camera — it’s a view you won’t want to miss.
Malecón
Length: 1.9 miles (out and back)
Take a stroll down Puerto Vallarta’s famous boardwalk, the Malecón. (Visit Puerto Vallarta)
Strolling along the Malecón in Puerto Vallarta is a great way to get moving without having to travel far or work too intensely. Plus, you can soak in the city’s sights and energy while enjoying a leisurely walk. The iconic seaside promenade stretches about a mile along the downtown waterfront, offering a mix of natural beauty, art, and local life.
Starting your walk, you’ll have uninterrupted views of the Bay of Banderas on one side and the colorful streets of Puerto Vallarta on the other. With palm trees swaying, the air filled with the sound of music, and the aromas of street food, it’s one of the must-do activities in Puerto Vallarta.
Be sure to head all the way to the northern section of the Malecon to see the sculptures that line the shoreline. These artworks, created by Mexican and international artists, add a touch of whimsy to the stroll. My favorite is “Nostalgia,” by Jose Ramiz Barquet, but there are about a dozen others to admire and choose your own.
The Malecón has restaurants, cafes, and bars, each offering something different. Whether you’re craving fresh seafood, traditional Mexican dishes, or international cuisine, there’s something for everyone. La Dolce Vita is a favorite for Italian cuisine, while La Bodeguita del Medio is great for authentic Cuban food and live music.
Monkey Mountain
Length: 4.3 miles (out and back)
When it comes to views of the Bay of Banderas, the vista from the peak of Monkey Mountain is hard to top. (Nuevo Vallarta Tours)
If you’re up for an adventure that rewards you with spectacular views, hiking up Monkey Mountain in Sayulita is a great way to spend the day. This hike offers a mix of challenges, stunning views, and Sayulita’s fun energy, which you can enjoy afterward.
The hike begins in Sayulita, known for its bohemian vibe, surf culture, and great food. The Monkey Mountain trailhead is a short drive from Sayulita in the nearby village of Higuera Blanca. You’ll start by following a dirt road into the jungle.
The hike up Monkey Mountain takes effort, but the views are worth it. As you make your way up, you’ll be surrounded by dense foliage, colorful flowers, and the jungle soundtrack. The path can be steep and rocky in parts, so be sure to wear proper shoes and bring plenty of water.
As you climb, the views become more and more wow-worthy. About halfway up, you’ll reach a clearing that offers a sneak peek of what’s to come — panoramic views of the coastline and the rolling green hills below.
The final push to the summit is steep, but once you reach the top, you’ll have 360-degree views of the Pacific Ocean and the landscape below. It’s the perfect spot to take pictures and breathe in the stunning Nayarit coastline.
After designing, head back to Sayulita to celebrate with a post-hike treat at ORGANI-K Sayulita. If you’re in the mood for something more lively, grab a seat at the beachfront bars. You can also use our weekend guide to Sayulita for more ideas on what to see and do in this popular beach town.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
