Saturday, October 4, 2025

The mysterious ‘Gringo Zapatista’ who fought in Mexico’s Revolution

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Zapatistas
According to stories about Martson, Emiliano Zapata (center) planned to execute him, thinking he was a "gringo" (from the U.S.), but a tattoo convinced him to spare his life. (Gob MX/Edher A. Moreno)

The story of Australian Roderick James Marston (at times referred to as Martson) – the photographer who became a Zapatista – was largely unknown until the 1990s, 60 years after his death, when his great granddaughter Erin Reid discovered a box of his journals and photos taken during the Mexican Revolution in the basement of his Vancouver home.

Reid has not yet released the contents to the public but has confirmed that the journals and photographs document his time with the Zapatistas. He has been referenced in Zapata biographies simply as “El Gringo”.

Late 19th century photo of a mine in Puebla
A late 19th-century mine in Puebla not far from where Marston would set up his own mine, with permission from President Porfirio Díaz. (Fototeca Nacional INAH)

Marston was an intrepid traveler and adventurer.  From an early age, he began traveling the world in search of adventure and his wealthy parents indulged his wanderlust. He was also a photographer, inventor, miner, and entrepreneur.  

His travels eventually took him to Vancouver, Canada where he caught gold fever.  His desire to become a prospector took him south to the United States, settling in San Antonio, Texas and acquiring two mining properties.

His scientific skill and intuitive sense of timing led him to invent a method of mining using explosive devices he invented to rip away the hard rock revealing the hidden treasure within – veins of gold to be exploited. His expertise gained him huge profits and gave him an edge over the other gambusinos (prospectors).

Eventually gold mines in the region began to dwindle, so Marston, backpack slung over one shoulder, traveled further south into Mexico to seek new adventures.  

He received permission from President Porfirio Díaz to settle in the city of Tehuacán, Puebla to carry out “scientific work” which for Marston meant mining. He immediately acquired a silver mine and once again employing his unique explosive techniques, began making large profits. 

Emiliano Zapata and soldiers mounted on horses.
Emiliano Zapata and his troops circa 1917. (Archivo Casasola / Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia)

His profits were so immense that he built a large estate and hired twenty people to staff it.  For the next six years he spent his time making money, designing new inventions, and indulging in his true passion: photography.

However, the Mexican Revolution of 1910 interrupted this more settled life for Marston.

In the leadup to the war, General Emiliano Zapata’s army dominated the states of Morelos and Puebla.  The slogan of the Zapatistas was “Land and Freedom”. Their goal was restitution of the land to the peasants – land currently owned by wealthy landowners. As the Zapatistas advanced through the area, ranches and estates fell one by one – the land then distributed to peasants.

According to the limited accounts available, when they reached Marston’s property, he and his employees put up a fierce defense but they were no match for Zapata’s army – the estate was in ruins, most of his servants killed, and Marston taken prisoner.

The Zapatistas considered him a “gringo” (born in the United States) and Zapata ordered him to be executed by firing squad. Marston, in broken Spanish, tried to explain that he was not a gringo.  The story goes that by displaying a tattoo of the British flag on one of his arms, he convinced them he wasn’t an American. According to interviews conducted with his great-granddaughter, he had obtained the tattoo while spending time with the British merchant navy during his earlier travels.

The story may be apocryphal, but Zapata decided to spare him if he agreed to fight with the Zapatistas.  

Marston, donning the Zapatista hat and carrying bandoliers on his shoulder, became part of Zapata’s army and was assigned to a battalion in Puebla. Due to his experience with explosives, Zapata put him in charge of blowing up the roads and railways being used by the federal army to fight the Zapatistas.

Attack on a constitutionalist military train in Sept. 1913.
An attack on a Constitutionalist military train in Sonora in September 1913. According to family lore, Marston was ordered to carry out a similar attack on a hospital. (José Mendoza / Fototeca INAH)

In 1911, Porfirio Díaz was overthrown and revolutionary leader Francisco I. Madero marched triumphantly into Mexico City to claim the presidency.  Zapata – as the revolutionary leader of the south – began peace negotiations with him in the hope of sharing power in the new government.  However, it quickly became apparent that Madero was not interested. Considering him a traitor to the cause, Zapata restarted the armed struggle for land – this time fighting the federal forces under President Madero.

On one occasion General Zapata himself ordered Marston to blow up a hospital where wounded federal soldiers lay dying. Marston refused, considering this a criminal act.  Zapata saw his disobedience as a betrayal of the cause and ordered him to be executed, for a second time. But the Zapatistas had come to like and respect the gringo – even calling him Captain Marston – and intervened to save his life.

Marston did not blow up the hospital, but he continued to fulfill his revolutionary duties until he was eventually captured by the Madero federal army and imprisoned. Madero, who was at the time seeking the support of foreign nations – and believing Marston to be a British citizen – gave him a reprieve on one condition: exile. Once more, the tattoo had saved his life.

Peppino Garibaldi on a horse.
Marston was not the only foreigner to fight on one side or another of the Mexican Revolution. Giuseppe Garibaldi II, also born in Australia, served under Francisco I. Madero in the first stage of the revolution, and Mexico City’s Plaza Garibaldi is named in his honor. (Harry Blumenfeld)

He made one last trip to the Zapatista camp where he had spent so much time to say his goodbyes to his comrades, who were by now his friends, and collected his most valuable possessions – his photographic equipment, his photo negatives, and his journals – and departed for the United States.

His days of wandering, however, were not yet over.  He traveled around the United States trying his hand at managing land, factory management, and even at one point selling Dr. W. B. Caldwell’s Syrup Pepsin (an early U.S. patented laxative) until he migrated north to Canada – where he finally settled down in Vancouver to start a family.

It is believed that he died there in 1933, at the age of 59. All that remains are his journals and more than 500 photos of Zapata and the Zapatistas.  His days of wanderlust had finally come to an end but many of the details of his adventures in Mexico remain shrouded in mystery.

Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher. She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán in 2021 and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.

Sheinbaum: “I’m more Mexican than mole” in response to birthplace rumors

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Claudia Sheinbaum
The front-runner to represent Morena in the 2024 presidential election emphatically responded to some social media speculation about her birthplace. Her parents were also both born in Mexico, though her maternal grandparents came from Bulgaria. (Claudia Sheinbaum/Twitter)

Leading Morena party presidential aspirant Claudia Sheinbaum has rejected claims she wasn’t born in Mexico, and published her birth certificate to prove her point.

Some social media users have asserted in recent days that the former Mexico City mayor was born in Bulgaria, the country from which her maternal grandparents hailed.

Claudia Sheinbaum
Sheinbaum has been on a tour of the country as an aspiring candidate for the Morena presidential candidacy in 2024. (Claudia Sheinbaum/Twitter)

Among the requirements a Mexican citizen must meet to qualify to be president of Mexico is to have been born in Mexico and to have at least one Mexican parent.

Sheinabum took to Twitter on Wednesday to dispel the rumors that she wasn’t born in Mexico.

“I’m more Mexican than mole,” she wrote in a post that included an image of her birth certificate showing she was born in Mexico City in 1962.

Mole is a typical Mexican sauce – and the key ingredient in a dish of the same name – whose origins date back hundreds of years.

Sheinbaum, who stepped down as mayor earlier this month to focus on winning the ruling Morena party’s nomination for the 2024 presidential election, deleted her birth certificate post for an unknown reason, but subsequently published a new, similar post on Twitter.

“Stop your speculation, here’s my birth certificate again. I’m 100% Mexican, proudly a daughter of Mexican parents,” she wrote.

Sheinbaum also rejected claims she wasn’t born in Mexico in a video posted to social media. In the same video, she noted that her mother and her father, who is deceased, were also born in Mexico. “I’m pure Mexican,” Sheinbaum declared.

The ex-mayor – Morena’s most favored candidate, according to the results of a recent El Universal newspaper poll – said at a 2018 Jewish community event that paternal grandparents were from Lithuania and her maternal grandparents were from Bulgaria.

“I feel Mexican, I am Mexican, … but I’m proud of my origin,” she said at the time.

Sheinbaum, a physicist and engineer who was a member of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change that won the Nobel Peace Prize in 2007, is one of six aspirants to the Morena party nomination for the June 2, 2024 presidential election.

With reports from Aristegui Noticias, El Universal and Reporte Indigo

The bold life of Tina Modotti, a 20th-century expat in Mexico

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Tina Modotti
Portrait of Tina Modotti by Edward Weston (1921).

It is almost cliché that many foreigners find in Mexico the chance to do and be quite different from what we can in our home countries. But when it comes to commitment to personal independence, art and politics, few of us can match the story of Tina Modotti, which is even more amazing given that she arrived in Mexico 100 years ago.

Born in Italy in 1896, Modotti came with her family in 1913, part of a large wave of European immigration to the United States. She began working in a factory in San Francisco, but her interest in theater and her looks brought her acting and modeling work and a bohemian life.

Modotti in “Tiger’s Coat,” a 1920 silent drama.

She married poet and painter Roubix de l’Abrie Richey, but began an affair with photographer Edward Weston in 1921. 

Richey went to Mexico City to check out the budding muralism scene. He invited Modotti to join him, but she stayed behind until he became sick with smallpox. Her first visit to Mexico was brief, primarily to bring her husband’s body back home, but she liked what she saw.

She convinced Weston to move there and open a photography studio, setting up shop in the upscale Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City in 1923.

Weston taught Modotti the basics in San Francisco. But renowned Mexican photographer Graciela Iturbide insists that she was “…a Mexican photographer because she developed her art in Mexico.” 

Women by Tina Modotti. Long before the modern concept of feminism, a realistic (non-sexualized) image of what life is like for most women. (Tina Modotti)

For seven years, Modotti’s bread and butter was taking portraits of Mexico’s elite. This not only gave her an independent source of income – rare for women at the time –  but also contacts with the city’s artists and intellectuals, including Diego Rivera,, writer Antonieta Rivas Mercado and photographer Manuel Álvarez Bravo.

Rivera praised her photography and she began to regularly document his and others’ mural work. She also worked with the magazine Mexican Folkways in 1925 and the book “Idols Behind Altars” in 1929. 

But by 1926, her relationship with Weston soured. He returned to the U.S., and she shifted into politics, joining the Mexican Communist Party (PCM) in 1927, and working with El Machete, the party’s newspaper.

Politics shaped her romantic life in Mexico first her relationship with Vittorio Vidali, then with exiled Cuban revolutionary Julio Antonio Mella in 1928. When Mella was assassinated by her side a year later, Modotti was accused of his murder – in fact, while Modotti accused Cuban dictator Gerardo Machado of arranging Mella’s murder, some have speculated that Vidali himself was responsible.

Mexican sombrero with a hammer and sickle crossed on its brim.
Sombrero with Hammer and Sickle 1927 by Tina Modotti – representing the two most important influences on her photography – Mexico and communism. (Tina Modotti)

Modotti was acquitted, but not before the trial made public her life of nude modeling, sexual independence and communist politics. Mexican high society was utterly scandalized and she lost her livelihood. The last straw for the government was when she was accused in a failed plot to kill President Pascual Ortiz Rubio. This event was the pretext for increased suppression of the PCM and the jailing or deportation of many of its activists, including Modotti: after spending 13 days in jail, she was given hours to get out of the country.

She fled to Europe, eventually working for the International Red Aid, a Soviet initiative to aid political prisoners, which took her to Spain to support the Republican fight against fascist Francisco Franco. She may have been  a Soviet spy, but this has never been confirmed.

With Franco victorious, Modotti needed to flee again. She first attempted to go to the U.S. but was denied because of false documents and possibly  her communist political activity.. Instead, she returned to Mexico in 1939. Despite her earlier deportation, the government of Lázaro Cárdenas was sympathetic to the Republican cause, and President Cárdenas personally annulled her expulsion the following year.

But Modotti did not return to her former life. Portrait photography was probably out of the question, and she became impoverished and reclusive. 

Puppeteer's hands with string.
“Hands of the Puppeteer” (1929). One of a series of “hands of” photographs representing the working class. (Tina Modotti)

On January 6, 1942, at the age of 45, Modotti died in a Mexico City taxi. Officially, her cause of death was heart disease. However, because of her age and past, speculation that she was murdered, likely because of her political involvement, continues to this day. She was buried in Mexico City’s Panteón de Dolores, with an epitaph composed by Pablo Neruda.

While Modotti’s personal life makes for a tantalizing story, her legacy is in her photographs, which were all but forgotten in the decades after her death. Although she produced about 200 known images with historical and artistic importance, for decades, documentation of her life was mostly found in footnotes in writings about Edward Weston.

That changed with the discovery of a trunk in an Oregon farmhouse in the 1990s containing a cache of about 70 photographs. They went to auction, and the 1925 work “Roses” fetched US $165,000, a record at the time. This, combined with the previous “Fridamania” of the 1980s, spurred book  and film projects about Modotti, as well as exhibitions of her work at major international art museums and her life lionized by celebrities such as Madonna.

Exhibitions of her work remained popular in the 1990s but began to wane in the 2000s, with her work again being associated with Weston internationally. 

Her photography was nowhere near as scandalous as her private life. She stated that “I try to produce not art but honest photographs, without distortions or manipulations.” But that might not be entirely true. 

Over Modotti’s seven years in Mexico, her artistic photography would progress from lighter themes to more serious ones. Despite the success of “Roses” at auction, she is best known for her social and political work, especially photographs taken for El Machete. Many pieces, such as “Worker’s Hand,” focus on the daily lives of peasants and workers. Others have direct political symbolism, such as a series dedicated to the communist hammer and sickle. The abstract works seem to be experiments inspired by contemporary artistic movements and include “Telegraph Wires” and “Staircase and Stadium, Mexico City,” where lines and shadow dominate.

Mujer con Olla (1927). Modotti was part of a movement by photographers to document, advocate for and even glorify Mexico’s working and peasant classes. (Tina Modotti)

Her social-political works are considered to be a precursor to critical photojournalism. Klaudia Prevezanos of the German publication DW says that her work remains relevant and “style defining” 100 years later: “they remain timeless in their simplicity and elegance.” 

While she may never have enduring international status, Modotti’s work remains important in Mexico. “She was my early inspiration” says Iturbide, who has carried the torch of socially-conscious photography to the present day.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

High temperatures spark increase in national fan sales

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The recent heat wave has increased demand for fans and other cooling devices in Mexico. (Delaney Van/Unsplash)

Mexico’s recent heat wave caused a surge in demand for cooling devices that nearly overwhelmed suppliers and caused disruption to the energy supply in some states.

Demand for fans and air conditioners jumped 18.9% in January to April compared to the same period the year before, while their manufacture only increased 14.3%, according to Mexico’s national statistics agency (INEGI). Online retailer Mercado Libre reported that demand for these devices jumped a further 18% between May 29 and June 12.

A package at a Mercado Libre line
Online retailer Mercado Libre reported an 18% increase in sales of fans in early June. (@ML_Mexico/Twitter)

In the first 20 days of June, as the third heat wave of the year gripped Mexico, sales of fans, sunscreen, hats and other items to mitigate the heat in Mexico City totaled 3.2 billion pesos (US $190 million) – a 46.6% increase from the year before – according to the National Chamber of Commerce, Services and Tourism (Canaco).

“I have participated in the fan market for seven years and this has not happened before,” Guillermo Freyría, president of the National Association of Manufacturers of Household Appliances (ANFAD), told the El Financiero newspaper. “It is very difficult to be prepared for this,” Freyría said, stressing the “atypical conditions” of present demand.

El Financiero found that many stores have struggled to keep up with this demand, selling out of certain models of fans within hours of the products arriving. Freyría predicts that if these types of heat waves continue, the use of ventilation and air conditioning in Mexican homes will grow by at least 10%.

Several foreign companies in the sector have been relocating their manufacturing to Mexico to better access the U.S. market. These include fan motor manufacturer Taurus, which has relocated a plant from China to Tlaxcala, and Japanese company Daikin, which is investing US $300 million in two factories in San Luis Potosí. 

ANFAD president Guillermo Freyría is concerned that increased electric consumption caused by the heatwave will lead to unaffordable bills for many Mexicans. (ANFAD)

“Mexico is a country with a tropical climate that depends greatly on fans; this geographical position is also an advantage to serve various export markets in an agile way,” said Luis Ángel García Pérez, vice president of the ventilators section at ANFAD.

On the other hand, the surge in use of electrical cooling devices during the heat wave increased costs for many Mexican businesses, leaving some with bills they may struggle to pay, according to Canaco president José de Jesús Rodríguez.

“We are asking the authorities that when these bills arrive, if they are very high, they give those who have less [ability to pay] some option to cover these expenses gradually,” he told the newspaper Reforma.

Increased use of cooling devices also increased demand for electricity, putting a strain on Mexico’s energy supplies. 

With reports from El Financiero and Reforma

Survey finds Mexican migrants pay average of US $7,000 to ‘coyotes’

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Migrant holding a child
Migrants from other countries, such as Guatemala, also reported paying smugglers to help them cross the Mexican border. (Pedro Anza / Cuartoscuro.com)

People smugglers known as coyotes or polleros are charging Mexicans close to US $7,000 on average to get them across the northern border into the United States, a 2022 survey found.

Conducted in the second half of last year, the Survey on Migration at the Northern Border of Mexico (EMIF Norte) found that Mexicans are paying an average of $6,937 to smugglers to take them into the United States.

Deportation of migrants from US border
The EMIF Norte survey included over 20,000 migrants, many of whom had been deported from the U.S. after trying to illegally cross the border. (CBP/Twitter)

At $7,839, the average price paid by Mexican women is 19% higher than the $6,565 average price paid by Mexican men.

The EMIF Norte – a joint initiative of the Mexican government, the College of the Northern Border and the International Organization for Migration – also found that 45% of surveyed Mexican migrants deported to Mexico from the U.S. used a coyote to cross the northern border.

Of more than 20,000 surveyed migrants heading to the United States, only 8.6% had guaranteed work waiting from them across the border. One-third had relatives in the U.S, while approximately eight in 10 hadn’t migrated previously.

Just over half of the surveyed Mexicans headed to the United States – 53.5% – didn’t have documents that allowed them to legally enter the U.S. or work there. Almost 60% of those surveyed were men while just over 40% were women. Their average age was 30, and only 11.9% had completed studies above high school level.

Dozens of people, mostly young men, stand in line behind an immigration official in a white shirt and cap. In the background, two large official trucks are completely full of both migrants and uniformed officials.
People found inside this trailer in Chiapas — mostly Guatemalan migrants — wait in line for space in migration institute transport vehicles. (Cuartoscuro.com)

The EMIF Norte’s sister survey, the Survey on Migration at the Southern Border of Mexico (EMIF Sur), found that 15.3% of 13,535 migrants from Guatemala who were deported to that country from Mexico used a coyote to facilitate their entry to and travel through the country. The average cost they paid was $3,894, according to the recently published results of the EMIF Sur, which was also conducted in the second half of last year.

The percentage of Guatemalan migrants who used a people smuggler to avoid detection by authorities as they traveled through Mexico is significantly higher than the 2% figure recorded in the second half of 2019.

Over half of the Guatemalan migrants surveyed reported suffering from extreme heat or cold while traveling in Mexico. About a quarter said they lacked food and/or water, while 2.6% said they were victims of extortion.

The period during which the EMIF Norte and EMIF Sur were conducted – July to November of last year – partially coincided with the United States 2022 fiscal year, during which undocumented immigrant crossings reached a record high of 2.76 million.

Fiscal year 2022 was also the deadliest year for migrants recorded by the United States government, with at least 853 people dying while attempting to enter the U.S. unlawfully from Mexico.

Mexico News Daily 

Xalapa’s anthropology museum is a must-see in Veracruz

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The Xalapa museum is considered the second-most significant anthropological collection in the country, after the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City. (Photo courtesy of the author)

Seeing Olmec colossal heads in photographs is one thing. But when you stand in front of one, it’s not just their size that strikes you. It’s also their presence, one that exudes both calmness and power.

The best place to experience that presence is the Museo de Antropología de Xalapa (MAX) in Xalapa, Veracruz. 

On your next trip through Veracruz, make a stop at the Xalapa Anthropology Museum, where you can see an impressive collection of Olmec colossal heads. (MAX)

MAX is considered the second-most important anthropology museum in Mexico (the first being the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City). The first museum in Xalapa to exhibit pre-Hispanic artifacts to the public, MAX opened in 1943. A larger museum was opened on the current site in 1960, only to be torn down in 1985 to make way for an even larger museum.

The third iteration of the museum, designed by U.S. architect Raymond Gómez, opened on October 29, 1986. All of the 2,500 artifacts on display are from pre-Hispanic Veracruz civilizations: Olmec, Remojadas, Tajín, Zapotal and Huasteca.

The building has one long gallery that connects to nine smaller galleries on one side. Three of these are covered patios where prehispanic figures and altars sit among trees and plants. Beautifully landscaped grounds surround the museum. 

Colossal Head Number 8 greets visitors at the entrance to the museum (the numbers signify the order in which the heads were found). Standing just over 7 feet tall, it has the same characteristics found on all of the heads: a flattened nose, thick lips and fleshy cheeks. All also have a helmet, which may have afforded protection in pelota, the ancient Mesoamerican ball game, or in battle. 

Three heads (l to r), number 9 (with smile), number 3 (maybe female), number 4. (Photo courtesy of the author)

Believed to be the portraits of rulers, Olmec heads were carved from basalt boulders transported from the Sierra de los Tuxtlas mountains. To date, seventeen heads have been found and seven can be viewed at the MAX. The heads range in height from 1.17 to 3.4 meters (3.8 to 11.2 feet) and weigh between 6 and 40 tons. Although it’s not known with certainty when the heads were carved, information at the museum dates them to between 1,200 and 900 B.C. 

Although all of the heads share common characteristics, each one is unique. For example, Number 3, located with two others in a side room, is thought to be the portrait of a woman. To her right is Number 9, who sports a Mona Lisa-like smile, and to her left is Number 4, who looks a little grim. 

Although the heads may be the most impressive of the museum’s pieces, there are many others that are also fascinating. 

Near the museum’s entrance are exhibits and information about the important role women played in pre-Hispanic cultures in Veracruz. 

A sculpture of a prehispanic fertility goddess is pictured with Colossal Head Number 5 gazing from behind. (Photo courtesy of the author)

With 2,500 artifacts in the museum, it’s difficult to choose favorites. But, in addition to the colossal heads, here are a few others that I found particularly interesting.

A sculpture of Tlazolteotl, the fertility goddess and one of the most important gods of all pre-Hispanic cultures, is at the entrance to the main gallery. She sits, cross-legged, gazing serenely while Colossal Head number 5 watches from behind her.

El Señor de Las Limas is a beautiful figure carved from green serpentine with an interesting backstory. It was found by two children in 1965 in Las Limas, Veracruz (hence the name) who were looking for a rock to break open coyoles, the small, hard fruits of a palm tree. 

Luckily, the children found a rock sticking out of the ground and used it to break open the fruits. Fortunately, no damage was done. They brought the rock to their home where people realized it was an ancient sculpture. Originally named La Virgen de las Limas, the townspeople placed it in the local church. It was later taken to the MAX where, in 1970, it was stolen and eventually recovered in a San Antonio, Texas motel. 

The figure is 55 cm (22 inches) high and depicts an adult, possibly a priest, sitting cross-legged and holding a limp baby in his arms. While it could depict a sleeping baby, it could also represent one that was sacrificed. 

A sculpture of rain god Tlaloc in the Anthropology Museum of Xalapa, Veracruz. (Photo courtesy of the author)

Another favorite is the small figure of the Dios del Fuego (Fire God) who appears happy as he rubs his hands together and drops offerings into a brazier. Nearby are Xipe Tótec, the god of agriculture and human sacrifice, whose body is covered in human skin, and Tlaloc, the rain god who looks oddly like a WWI pilot. 

One of the more disturbing exhibits is the gallery of deformed skulls, a practice undertaken to show kinship and status, as well as for aesthetic reasons. The deformations were typically performed on infants; the exhibit displays ceramic sculptures depicting children strapped on beds to prevent movement while bands or boards were placed to deform their skulls.

Figure on taking a couple of hours to tour the museum. After that, take advantage of what Xalapa has to offer. 

The historic center has lots of restaurants and cafés to check out. A little advice: if you drive to Xalapa, park your car before heading to the city’s center and take taxis, which are reasonably priced – the traffic is brutal. Also, Señor Google kept sending us to the commercial center when we asked the app for directions to the historic center. Either ask someone for directions, or type in Parque Juárez, which is a good starting point within the historic center.

There, you’ll find people selling food, skaters on skateboarders and live music. The park has a huge statue of Quetzalcóatl with an extended tongue that children like to slide down. 

For a more tranquil experience, there’s the beautiful Parque de los Tecajetes, which is a short ride from the city’s center. It has gardens and pools filled with fish and turtles and is a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

A waiter serves café lechero in a Veracruz café. (Eneas De Troya/Wikimedia Commons)

Lastly, do not leave Xalapa without trying a hot glass of lechero. A glass of coffee is brought to your table and then a server, in a sort of perfomance art piece, pours in hot milk. Although I prefer my coffee black, I found lechero delicious.

MAX is open Tuesday through Sunday, 9 a.m.to 5 p.m. and costs 60 pesos to enter. The second floor has temporary exhibits.

Joseph Sorrentino, a writer, photographer and author of the book San Gregorio Atlapulco: Cosmvisiones and of Stinky Island Tales: Some Stories from an Italian-American Childhood, is a regular contributor to Mexico News Daily. More examples of his photographs and links to other articles may be found at www.sorrentinophotography.com He currently lives in Chipilo, Puebla. 

Navy to take full control of Mexico City International Airport

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Mexico City International Airport
The navy has been in charge of security at the airport since early 2022. (Tomás Acosta Ordaz / Cuartoscuro.com)

The navy will be given complete control of the Mexico City International Airport (AICM), President López Obrador confirmed Monday.

The Ministry of Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation (SICT) is currently responsible for the nation’s busiest airport, although the navy has been in charge of security since early last year.

Terminal 1 of Mexico City Airport (AICM)
Terminal 1 of the country’s busiest airport. (AICM/Twitter)

SICT is currently preparing a decree outlining the details of the handover of control of AICM to the navy. The transfer of control will officially take place 60 days after the publication of the decree in the federal government’s official gazette, which is expected to happen in the coming days.

“The Ministry of the Navy will be in charge of the Mexico City airport,” López Obrador told reporters at his morning press conference.

He noted that the navy is already in charge of security at AICM and asserted that it has a done a “very good job.”

“… There is no theft of suitcases as happened before, and care is taken so that contraband doesn’t come in, so that drugs don’t come in,” López Obrador said.

A marine supervises airport staff at a screening area.
A marine supervises airport staff at a screening area. (Semar)

He asserted that the AICM was controlled by drug traffickers while previous governments were in office and Mexico was a “narco-state.”

López Obrador also announced that the navy will take control of the airports in Ciudad del Carmen, Campeche; Ciudad Obregón, Sonora; and Guaymas, Sonora.

He noted that the Defense Ministry – the army – will have responsibility for the Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA), which opened at a location north of the capital in March 2022; the airport in Tulum, Quintana Roo, that is currently under construction; and the airports in Campeche, Puebla and the Tamaulipas border city of Nuevo Laredo.

AICM general director Carlos Velázquez Tiscareño, a former navy pilot and vice-admiral, said Tuesday that the airport will benefit from navy control in a range of ways.

There will be “greater security, certainty, adherence to rules, order and discipline,” he told reporters at an International Air Transport Association event in Mexico City.

The current government has used the military for a wide range of non-traditional tasks including public security, the construction of major infrastructure projects including AIFA and the administration of ports and customs.

Aviation sector expert Rosario Avilés said that the military should be focused on national security rather than the management of airports.

“The armed forces have a mission to fulfill in security, but their efforts are being distracted by managing infrastructure and building hotels, and that’s not their role,” she said.

With reports from El Financiero, López-Dóriga Digital, El Economista and Reforma 

How will nearshoring impact water? A perspective from our CEO

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Water for industrial use
As industry and manufacturing expand with nearshoring, some wonder if it will adversely affect Mexico's water supply.(Shutterstock)

It’s hard for me not to be excited about the nearshoring boom that is happening in Mexico.  Significant investments in new facilities and existing plant expansions are pouring in from companies from around the globe – Germany, France, Italy, Spain, Korea, Japan, Taiwan, India, the U.S., Canada and China.

I recently wrote about my perspective on nearshoring through previous experiences with the impact of NAFTA on this economy. Most of the investment is concentrated in Mexico’s northern states, closest to the U.S. border, and others are focused on the central “El Bajío” region. All of these states have something in common, aside from being manufacturing hubs – they have dry climates and are water-stressed regions.

Low levels of rainfall across Mexico have caused drought in many states, including in Campeche (seen here). (Michael Balam/Cuartoscuro)

How can such significant investment in industry and manufacturing, along with the massive amounts of new people moving to these areas, not create major water issues? President López Obrador even said Tesla should consider building its new factory not in Monterrey, but in the southern part of the country, “where water is plentiful.”

I have worked in the water business globally – including in Mexico and Latin America – for over 15 years. I do not consider myself a water expert, but given my years of experience in the region and in the business of solving industrial water problems, I have some perspective on assessing the risks and concerns related to water in relation to increased nearshoring development.

First of all, it’s important to remember how water is used. Although it varies by country, state and city, the general mix of water usage globally tends to be ~70% agriculture, ~20% industry and ~10% domestic.

Most people are shocked when they first hear these statistics, as they tend to assume higher amounts for industry and domestic use. Nearshoring will most impact the 20% related to industrial use, and with an influx of new residents into some municipalities, the 10% related to domestic usage will be affected as well.

Automotive manufacturing
Automotive manufacturing in Mexico. (Courtesy of Entrada Group)

Industry is a very broad category as many different subsegments have different water usage levels. Heavy industry segments like paper and steel mills and power plants use the most water.

That said, even these industries are investing in creative solutions to reduce their water footprint.  This past week, Ternium, an Argentine steel company, announced a US $3.2 billion investment in their plant in Nuevo Léon, that will use recycled wastewater in production processes.

Lighter industry segments, like general manufacturing and assembly – the segments most likely to expand with nearshoring – tend to use significantly less water.  In many of these facilities, the most significant water use can be in the restrooms or cafeteria for the employees!

Having worked in the water industry with thousands of industrial companies as clients, I have seen firsthand that almost all of these companies have sustainability goals in place in which they constantly strive to use less water and energy each year. Most of these companies share best practices across their facilities globally, even best practices between competitors, to use less water.

Many invest in tools and technologies that better control, monitor, reduce, reuse, and recycle water throughout their facilities because it’s in their best interest to save water.  Why?  In most parts of Mexico, water is expensive!

Many municipalities or industrial parks charge industrial customers significant amounts for clean water and even more to receive dirty water.

In almost every multinational industrial operation I have seen, long gone are the days when companies just waste water indiscriminately.  It just doesn’t make financial or business sense for them to do so.

GDP growth and improved living standards bring increased water usage, that’s a fact anywhere in the world. An increasingly wealthy Mexico most certainly will need more water. Fortunately, there are societal and financial incentives for industry to use less water and there are many technologies that help companies to reduce, reuse, and recycle their water usage. The business case for companies to invest in this technology is quite compelling and in most cases quickly pays for itself.

With the rapidly changing climate and its unpredictability, I don’t think anyone can feel completely comfortable about water these days. It seems like almost everyone is either struggling with too little or too much water at any given time period.

I think that if we as a society continue to prioritize this issue it will pressure industry to invest to use as little water as possible in their operations. It will not be a completely painless process, but I believe the nearshoring boom will not have a significant direct impact on water resources in most regions.

We welcome and encourage letters to the editor to share your perspective and experience – let’s start a conversation on this important topic!

Education Ministry publishes school calendar for 2023-24

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The 2022-23 school year - the first full year back since the COVID-19 pandemic, has been interrupted by heat waves and volcanic ash clouds. Here, pupils in Puebla wear masks after the eruption of Popocatépetl. (Mireya Novo/Cuartoscuro)

On Monday, the Ministry of Public Education (SEP) released its schedule for the upcoming school year. Parents, start planning your vacations for the next year! 

The first day of classes will be Aug. 28 and the last will be July 16, 2024. 

SEP calendar
The 2023-24 school year calendar. (SEP)

The calendar applies to all preschools and primary and secondary schools, both public and private, that are part of the national education system. Developed by SEP and the educational authorities of each federal entity, the school year will comprise 190 days of activities. 

Seasoned parents in Mexico’s education system know that the School Technical Council’s sessions take place the last Friday of every month and school activities are canceled on these days. Throughout the 2023-24 cycle, the council will have 8 ordinary sessions. 

Major dates for the 2023-2024 school calendar include winter break (December 18-29) and spring break (March 25 – April 5). School will be adjourned on Nov. 2 and 20, Dec. 25, Jan. 1, Feb 5., March 18 and May 1 and 15 to observe official holidays.

Schools will also be closed for students on the “administrative workdays” days when teachers carry out certain administrative activities. In the upcoming academic year, the administrative discharge will happen on November 14, March 15 and July 12. 

SEP also shared the pre-registration dates for the 2024-2025 school year for preschool, elementary school and secondary school. These will take place from February 1 to 15, 2024.  

Although this year’s school calendar ends on July 26, several northern states, including Sinaloa, Coahuila and Nuevo León have decided to end mandatory classes sooner due to the high temperatures currently affecting the region. 

With reports from Sin Embargo and Diario AS

Arrest made after smash-and-grab jewelry store robbery in Polanco

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Thieves smashed the windows of a high-end jewelry store in Polanco, escaping on motorcycles. (Screen capture)

One person has been arrested in connection with an audacious robbery of a Mexico City jewelry store in which thieves used sledgehammers and axes to smash windows before making away with luxury watches.

The robbery occurred Monday evening at the Berger jewelry store in Plaza Antara, an upscale shopping center near the affluent Polanco neighborhood.

Mexico City security chief Omar Garcia Harfuch shared a photo of one of the suspected thieves, who was detained last night. (Twitter)

Video posted to social media shows four men participating in the robbery. One apparently armed man stands guard as his accomplices bash at the store’s glass windows.

The thieves, who weren’t confronted by mall security, reportedly stole at least 15 watches before fleeing the shopping center on motorcycles. El Financiero newspaper reported that Berger sells Rolex timepieces worth hundreds of thousands of pesos and Patek Phillipe watches worth as much as 10 million pesos.

Mexico City Security Minister Omar García Harfuch Tweeted Tuesday morning that a suspect was arrested after “several operation actions” were carried out overnight.

“There are still more people to arrest,” he wrote, adding that the crime will not go unpunished and all suspects will be detained. The security minister’s post included a photograph of the detained suspect.

Video footage of the robbery has gone viral on social media

 

A similar robbery occurred at the same jewelry store in December 2017. On that occasion, a man in a motorcycle helmet used a sledgehammer to break windows before stealing valuable watches. He was pursued by security guards but managed to escape via the mall’s main entrance before fleeing on a motorcycle with an accomplice.

With reports from El Universal and El Financiero