Saturday, July 5, 2025

Were these Mexican-American War heroes real?

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When it comes to the story of the Niños Héroes, how can we separate fact from fiction? (Lars Plougmann/ CC-BY-SA 2.0)

No Mexico City itinerary is complete without a visit to Chapultepec Park, the expansive urban woodland that holds some of the country’s most grandiose monuments, museums and art galleries.  For a park that offers such tranquility amid the frenetic pace of the city, it’s hard to imagine the bloodshed that took place there during the Mexican-American War of 1846 to 1848.

Toward the end of the war, on Sept. 13, 1847, around 2,000 U.S. troops led by Gen. Winfield Scott stormed Chapultepec Castle, which at the time housed the military academy where army cadets trained. It was a decisive U.S. victory which proved pivotal to the American occupation of Mexico City and the subsequent annexation of Mexico’s northern territories, including Alta California, Arizona and New Mexico.

The Battle of Chapultepec from the perspective of the invaders. (Adolphe Jean-Baptiste Bayot)

In the U.S. collective imagination, the invasion of Mexico receives far less attention than the Civil War that followed a little over a decade later.  But the war was pivotal in U.S. history: it helped solidify the northern country’s expansionism and gave political and geographical weight to the doctrine of Manifest Destiny. Events like the 1836 Battle of the Alamo — technically part of the Texas Revolution — are more widely remembered, perhaps because it was a loss. Defeat invites narrative, giving people a reason to grieve, rally and mythologize.

In the Mexican national consciousness, the Battle of Chapultepec is remembered for the heroic acts of the Niños Héroes (Boy Heroes), six cadets from the academy who allegedly disobeyed Gen. Nicolás Bravo’s order to stand down. Agustín Melgar, Fernando Montes de Oca, Francisco Márquez, Juan de la Barrera, Juan Escutia and Vicente Suárez fought to their last breath to defend the castle. Escutia, the last surviving cadet, is said to have wrapped himself in the Mexican flag before leaping from the castle to his death to prevent U.S. forces from capturing it. 

The Niños Héroes’ names and exploits are learned by Mexican schoolchildren as part of the national curriculum set by the Ministry of Education. They are remembered as valiant martyrs who dodged bullets and bayonets, preferring to die for their country than surrender to invading forces. “The message was to love your country to death,” Adolfo Zambrano, a sociologist at the University of Bielefeld, told Mexico News Daily.

At Puerta de los Leones, the main entrance to Chapultepec, the gleaming white Altar a la Patria (Altar to the Homeland) comes into view behind wrought iron gates. Built between 1947 and 1952 from Italian marble, this monument commemorates the Mexican lives lost in the Mexican-American War. The six cadets are represented by towering pillars, each crowned with an eagle and a torch pointing skyward. At the monument’s center stands the Motherland, personified by a muscular Indigenous woman cradling a fallen cadet draped in the national flag. Look closely beyond the monument and you’ll see Chapultepec Castle perched on the hill directly above, with the same flag flying from its peak— a symbolic reclaiming of the narrative, quietly denying that the U.S. flag ever flew there.

Altar a la Patria monument in Chapultepec Park
The Altar a la Patria monument in Chapultepec Park. (Gobierno de México)

Fact, fiction and historical ambiguity

Across Mexico, in nearly every city and town, streets, plazas and even bus stations bear the name of the Niños Héroes. Though their story is widely shared, separating fact from fiction proves more difficult. Myths surrounding the cadets have long been accepted as historical truth. For instance, official government sources still assert that they were the final defenders of the castle, despite a lack of evidence. Their names, now carved into stone, didn’t appear in a history book until 1883, 36 years after the battle.

To begin with, the idea that the cadets were children is misleading. While two were under the age of 18, the remaining four were young adults, including Juan Escutia, who was 20. Juan de la Barrera, 19, actually held the rank of lieutenant in the military engineers. Referring to them as boys heightens the emotional resonance of their sacrifice and positions them as aspirational figures within the national imagination, reinforcing values of duty, loyalty and patriotism.

Their youthful image does more than elevate them as role models. The innocence projected onto the Niños Héroes mirrors the infancy of the Mexican republic itself. Barely two decades after gaining independence from Spain, Mexico in the 1840s was still a fragile and deeply divided nation, struggling to define itself against internal strife and foreign aggression. The story of six brave cadets, young and outmatched, standing firm against a powerful invading force, became a potent allegory for a nation clinging to sovereignty.

Some critics have questioned whether the six Niños Héroes existed in the form remembered today. However, historical accounts suggest that approximately 50 cadets, in an act of defiance, remained at Chapultepec Castle to fight alongside the Mexican Army. Though their decision may have been reckless, it has been reframed as an act of bravery and patriotic sacrifice.

The first monument to the Niños Héroes, erected in 1882. (Protoplasmakid/CC-BY-SA 4.0)

The Battle of Chapultepec was officially commemorated for the first time on Sept. 13, 1882, during the presidency of Manuel González Flores, the four-year period of indirect rule during the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz. The ceremony inaugurated the Obelisco a los Niños Héroes monument, which still stands at the foot of Chapultepec Castle and was designed by Ramón Rodríguez Arangoiti, himself one of the cadets captured during the battle. That tradition continues today: each year on September 13 the president reads the names of the Niños Héroes at the Altar a la Patria monument. 

Did Juan Escutia really wrap himself in the flag?

Chapultepec Castle is now a museum, largely preserved as it was during Emperor Maximilian’s rule under French occupation. Visitors who climb the winding path to the top will find more lifelike statues of the Niños Héroes. In the castle’s central stairway, a 1967 ceiling mural by Gabriel Flores depicts Juan Escutia’s leap to his death, wrapped in the Mexican flag. But did it really happen that way?

Evidence suggests Escutia may not have been a cadet at all, but a soldier in the San Blas Battalion. That unit, founded in Nayarit in 1823, was led during the Battle of Chapultepec by a lesser-known figure named  Felipe Santiago Xicoténcatl. According to eyewitness accounts, Xicoténcatl was gunned down by U.S. forces while trying to keep his battalion’s flag aloft. As he fell, his comrades wrapped his body in the flag and buried him with it.

Niños Héroes on 5000 peso bill
The Niños Héroes as depicted on a 5000-peso bill from the 1980s, in which they appear with European features.

It’s possible the story of Xicoténcatl was later transferred to Escutia, who was reimagined as a boy to heighten the drama. In 1947, Xicoténcatl’s remains were exhumed and eventually entombed alongside the remains of six people found in Chapultepec and alleged to be the Niños Héroes beneath the Altar a la Patria monument at the park’s entrance– another claim that proves difficult to substantiate.

Notably, Xicoténcatl was Indigenous, a Nahua officer from Tlaxcala, while the Niños Héroes are almost always depicted as light-skinned, European-looking cadets. This contrast reveals how post-independence Mexican nationalism often privileged a Europeanized ideal of citizenship. By transferring the story of patriotic sacrifice to Juan Escutia, a figure reimagined as youthful and white, the myth erased the Indigenous person’s contribution.

What do the Niños Héroes tell us about Mexico?

Regardless of how much of their story is true, the enduring prominence of the Niños Héroes reflects the early nation-state’s need to transform narratives of loss and sacrifice into unifying myths. Their legend offers consolation for the loss of nearly half of Mexico’s national territory following the 1848 Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo and continues to have emotional resonance for Mexicans today. Recalling his childhood in a 2005 essay, Mexico City-born literary critic Guillermo Sheridan remembers the influence of the Niños Héroes: “That there might be boys who, besides being boys, were heroes, added up to a pressing demand on my own potential heroism. Many a time did I dream of myself duly chopped up and distributed over several monuments for having defended the peaks of the Popocatépetl to the end from some foreign scoundrel.” The power of the story lies not only in what it commemorates, but in how it continues to shape national identity. As Adolfo Zambrano of Bielefeld University put it, “There’s a part of me that believes the myth actually happened despite the lack of evidence.”

One example of the ubiquitousness of the Niños Héroes: a middle school named for them in the state of México. (MiPueblo2018/CC-BY-SA 4.0)

When we hear talk of President Donald Trump’s renewed expansionist ambitions, it’s tempting to treat such rhetoric as an anomaly. However, a closer look at this period in Mexican history reveals that territorial aggression has long been a tenet of U.S. foreign policy. The wounds of the Mexican-American War run deep in Mexico’s collective memory, and they continue to shape how the country understands its relationship with its northern neighbor. The myth of the Niños Héroes is one way of processing that legacy— recasting defeat not as humiliation, but as a heroic model of sacrifice.

Shyal Bhandari is a British-Indian writer caught in a whirlwind romance with Mexico. He holds an MPhil in Latin American Studies from the University of Cambridge. His writing has appeared in publications including Vogue, Ojarasca, Little White Lies and Asymptote Journal. In 2019-2020 he ran a series of literary workshops with Indigenous poets in the south of Mexico with the support of the Royal and Ancient International Scholarship.

Which Punta Mita beach club is right for you? A guide to Riviera Nayarit’s seaside sanctuaries

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Sunset skies at a beach club in Punta Mita, where elegant tents and umbrellas shade guests by the ocean.
The Riviera Nayarit's beach clubs in Punta Mita have long been a mainstay for visitors who want sun-soaked shoreline elegance. (Club Punta Mita)

I’ve spent years hopping around beach clubs across Mexico — from the barefoot boho vibes of the Pacific Coast to swanky, sun-bleached beaches on the Riviera Maya. And while Nayarit’s Punta Mita, the gated community along the northern coast of the Bay of Banderas, may be a bit rich for my blood, I can’t deny that its beach clubs are absolutely top-tier.

For the sophisticated traveler who wants to let their hair down (or just sip something chilled under a palapa), Punta Mita delivers. These clubs aren’t just places to lounge — they’re experiences. But which one matches your personal vibe? 

Here’s your insider’s guide to Punta Mita’s five beach clubs — and how to know which one is right for you.

Kupuri Beach Club

Lobby at Kupuri Beach Club in Punta Mita
Want a beach club that makes everyone in the family feel welcome? Kupuri’s got your back. (Meagan Drillinger)

Best for: active families and oceanfront luxury

Kupuri Beach Club is all about elevating the family-friendly beach day. Overlooking the white sand of Litibu Bay, this is where Punta Mita families gather — whether for lazy palapa lunches or action-packed water adventures. Reserved for Club Premier Members and their guests or renters, Kupuri is both polished and playful.

It’s got everything: a shallow wading pool and Coritas Kids’ Club for little ones, an air-conditioned teen clubhouse with video games and activities and the Navi Spa for those who want to book in for a massage after beach time. 

Ocean lovers will find their bliss with paddleboarding, sailing, and snorkeling. But I love Kupuri Beach Club for its dreamy white sand beach and gorgeous views. It’s also home to Hector’s Kitchen, one of the most celebrated restaurants along the Riviera Nayarit. If you’re up for a splurge, book a dinner reservation here. For something a little more casual, the Kupuri Restaurant hits the spot.

Pacifico Beach Club

Pacfico Beach Club with sun loungers and a swimming pool
Pacifico Beach Club, a favorite of local residents, is where to go for a chill, pampered experience. (Pacifico Beach Club/Facebook)

Best for: traditionalists and sunset devotees

If Kupuri is the energetic younger sibling, Pacifico is the elegant elder. This was the original beach club in Punta Mita, and it still holds a special place in the hearts of longtime residents. Overlooking the iconic Tail of the Whale ocean hole of the Pacifico golf course, and the blue Pacific, it has a nostalgic, classic feel — and unbeatable sunsets.

There are two pools (one adults-only, one for families), towel and beach-chair service, a full-service restaurant and bar, plus a kids’ playground tucked into a shady garden. The onsite spa offers massages, facials and mani-pedis. It’s polished without being fussy, and if you stay late enough, the ambiance transitions from beachside lunch to mood-lit dinner.

Dinner here is a must — especially the catch of the day served over coconut rice and the tuna tostadas. Pair that with a glass (or many) of Whispering Angel, which seems to be the resident rosé brand of all the beach clubs in Punta Mita.

Sufi Ocean Club

Best for: design-minded foodies

Club Sufi in Punta Mita
Style, leisure and elegance are the name of the game at Sufi Ocean Club. (Carl Emberson)

Sufi Ocean Club is the newest of Punta Mita’s beach enclaves, and arguably the most stylish. Perched along a calm stretch of the Bay of Banderas, and anchored by a saltwater pool that’s refreshed daily, it’s the kind of place where you come for a leisurely lunch and end up staying all day.

Located in Porta Fortuna — one of the peninsula’s most coveted communities — Sufi is all about oozing barefoot elegance: think Bali beds with gauzy, billowy white linens and, of course, copious amounts of rosé. Beach access is granted via the Punta Mita Pier, and the club has two distinct dining experiences: the casual snack shack and the upscale Sufi Restaurant, known for its clever “Mexiterranean” menu.

Sea Breeze Beach Club

Best for: daytime beach reads or sunset date nights

A sunset in Punta Mita, Mexico, by the beach shoreline. The sky is multiple hues of pink, orange, yeloow and blue, with reflective light cast on the ocean and the rest of the image cast in shadow for a warm vibe to the photo.
You can choose from a variety of beach club experiences at the St. Regis’s Sea Breeze Beach Club, also available to Club Punta Mita members. (Meagan Drillinger)

Sea Breeze Beach Club, located within the St. Regis Punta Mita Resort, is a blend of five-star service and relaxed beach vibes. While technically available to Club Punta Mita Members through an annual agreement, it remains one of the peninsula’s most favorite escapes — and a favorite among hotel guests.

The wide, sandy beach is backed by a glittering pool and ultra-comfortable loungers. Pool butlers are never far away, ready with towels, snacks or that second round of drinks. Dining here is a range of light bites to woodfired pizzas, steaks, ceviche, and empanadas. The nearby Mita Mary serves everything from steamed crab ravioli to Pacific tuna served with chipotle and beetroot sauce. 

The club is a place where you can come with a beach read and a cover up, or dress it up for date night. Both feel right at home. Whatever you do, stay for sunset when the sky smolders in luscious pinks and purples.

El Surf Club

El Surf Club, Punta Mita
El Surf Club definitely has Punta Mita elegance but wrapped up in a casual, surf lover’s vibe. (Meagan Drillinger)

Best for: wave riders and the boho chic

If the rest of Punta Mita leans polished, El Surf Club keeps things deliciously undone. Set above the legendary La Lancha surf break, this club feels like Montauk by way of Riviera Nayarit. It’s all driftwood, palms, woven hammocks and that cool-kid glow.

I’ll be honest — El Surf Club is my personal favorite. I love everything about it: the barefoot elegant surf vibe, the perfectly framed sunset views, the fire pits and the variety of chill lounge spaces. It’s a Punta Mita beach club for sure but designed for a crowd that can feel just as comfortable at a backpacker bar in San Pancho. 

The vibe is “surf shack sophisticate,” with a menu that matches: think oysters, ceviche, tacos and the catch of the day. Drinks? Icy beers by the bucket, mezcal cocktails and, of course, that ubiquitous rosé. 

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

The day Mexican women’s soccer ruled the world

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A team of women in Red jackets and sombreros lift the world cup trophy on the steps on a plane.
Traditionally, soccer was a sport for men — until Mexico organized the inaugural 1971 Women's World Cup and nothing was the same again. (Macao News)

When and where — and by whose efforts — women’s soccer first appeared in Mexico is likely never to be identified. But the earliest documented event is the arrival of a women’s team from Costa Rica that made a long tour around the country in 1963. 

Their arrival didn’t introduce women’s soccer to Mexico but it certainly contributed to its growth. Around Mexico, a few enthusiastic young women recruited friends and assembled teams to play the Costa Rican visitors — and carried on playing afterward, which would lead within just a few years to Mexico creating a women’s national selection team and even hosting the newly created Women’s World Cup — to great success.

The Mexican women's soccer team in 1971 in their game uniforms, which are green red and white, posing for a group photo with the first row of players kneeling and the back row standing. They are posing inside a stadium full of people in the distant background.
Mexico’s 1971 Women’s World Cup team that competed in Italy. (Internet)

How did this happen?

By 1969, there was enough enthusiasm to stage the first Mexican women’s championship, a competition involving 17 teams from around Mexico City. At this point, the situation in Mexico was very similar to that of women’s soccer in Europe — where a handful of clubs operated under the radar, and usually without any recognition or assistance from the male-dominated associations.

A World Cup for women’s soccer

The pockets of enthusiasm in Europe had gained enough traction in the 1960s to form the Federation of Independent European Female Football (FIEFF). In 1969, it organized a World Cup competition for women’s soccer.

Italy, who had led the way in women’s soccer in 1968 with a nationwide and semiprofessional women’s league, was the natural host, but how Mexico came to be one of the eight invited teams remains a mystery. We do know that they were not on the original list of competing teams and were only included only after Argentina and Brazil dropped out.

The Mexican team played its first game in the city of Bari, beating Austria 9-0 and throwing Alicia Vargas into the spotlight with four goals.

Black and white photo of a young woman in a soccer uniform holding a soccer ball in front of her as she poses for a photo. She is looking at the camera as she stands on what looks like a neighborhood soccer pitch.
Alicia Vargas was one of Mexico’s first female soccer stars after she played on the Mexican team in the first Women’s World Cup in Italy. Racking up an impressive number of goals, she was soon nicknamed “La Pelé,” after the legendary Brazilian male professional soccer star, Pelé. (Internet)

Vargas’ story is worth following, as it is typical of so many women players of this generation. She had played soccer with her brothers and neighborhood boys in the street and — without realizing it — became a skilful player. When she was just 13, she saw more organized games involving the Guadalajara club and asked if she could join in. Despite no formal training, the skills she’d picked up on the street made her an instant star.

In Italy, she became  “La Pelé” Vargas and was offered a contract to stay on to play with the Real Torino team, but she chose to return to Mexico.

During a two-day conference after the Cup in Torino, Mexico’s representatives agreed to host the next tournament. The Federation of Mexican Football, however, opposed the idea and threatened fines on any club that granted women access to their stadiums.

The organizers got around this by hiring the Estadio Azteca in Mexico City and the Estadio Jalisco in Guadalajara. Both stadiums were privately owned and therefore beyond the control of the Federation.

This had an unforeseen impact on the event. Both stadiums were owned by media outlets wanting a successful tournament. Their backing meant there would be no lack of advertising or media coverage. In addition, the Italian Martini & Rossi company covered the cost of hotels, flights and equipment for the Mexico event.

Planners invited Argentina, Denmark, England, France and Italy to join Mexico in the tournament. Team members arriving in Mexico City found the city swamped with posters and banners for the event. Central to the advertising campaign was Xóchitl, the tournament’s mascot, a dark-haired little girl with pigtails who wore a red, white and green uniform jersey and short shorts.

Back then, even though several of the players on many of the teams, Mexico’s included, were minors as young as 13, organizers were not shy about using the team’s gender and sexuality to fill stadiums. The goal posts were painted pink. In between playing and attending a press interview, the players were encouraged to use the beauty salon situated inside the locker rooms. 

“Soccer,” the New York Times reported at the time, “goes sexy south of the border.”

While this grates with today’s attitudes, organizers argued that the makeup and glamour wasn’t just to encourage men into the stadiums but also to show young women that sports could be feminine and cool. 

The advertising paid off. Helped by live TV coverage, matches averaged crowds of 15,000, and Mexico’s games in the Aztec Stadium probably — there were no official figures — attracted 100,000 fans. For the competitors, used to playing on local park pitches, it was an unbelievable experience.

Souvenirs from the first two Women's World Cup in Mexico, a mini multicolored sarape and a mini Mexican sombrero, plus a sticker of the mascot for the 1971 Women's World Cup held in Mexico: a girl with pigtails wearing a green tee shirt and white short shorts holding a soccer ball.
Xochitl, the mascot for the second Women’s World Cup in , emphasized sex appeal and infantilization, a move hardly questioned at the time. (Claus Pedraza/Wikimedia Commons)

Off the pitch, they were superstars, with crowds gathering outside their hotel and mobbing the team coaches. The fans included a few lovesick young boys with bunches of flowers! 

The Mexicans had been training for two months and were well prepared. They won both their group games and then beat Italy to make the final. The standard of play was “okay.” The Mexican team had good basic ball control, and there was a willingness to run with the ball. However, the games lacked pace, and defenders often needed an extra touch to control the ball, allowing them to get robbed close to their own penalty area.

Overall, as to be expected, there was also a lack of power compared to the men’s game, and goal kicks usually landed well short of the halfway line.

Mexico had done well in making the final, but not all was well behind the scenes. With the tournament drawing in considerable revenue, the Mexican team asked for the creation of a bonus fund that would be split between them. Disputes over this distracted the team in the days before the final game.

Even so, the Danes were the outstanding team of the tournament, and it is doubtful that the squabble in the Mexican camp had any real impact on the result. In the end, Denmark’s 15-year-old Susanne Augustesen scored a hat trick to guide her team to the title.

A stunning 110,000 spectators packed the Estadio Azteca for that game, and coach Harry Batt felt a corner had been turned.

Susanne Augustesen VM Mexico City 1971

Footage from the Mexico vs. Denmark final in 1971 in Mexico City, in which Denmark’s 15-year-old Susanne Augustesen took her team to victory against Mexico.

“I am certain,” he told the press on his return to England, “that in the future, there will be full-time professional ladies’ teams in this country.”

His team returned home with their suitcases so full of souvenirs that some worried about getting through customs. However, they left the fervor of 100,000-spectator crowds only to return to a wall of indifference back home. One player, invited to join her heroes Newcastle United at a club dinner, sat through a comedian whose main act was to ridicule women’s football. The young players who returned to school were not acknowledged in assembly.

And not just male authorities were indifferent: An official Women’s Football Association had just been formed, and although it had declined to send a team to Mexico, the association’s officials were furious at Harry Batt for what they saw as going behind their backs. Batt found himself blacklisted by the Women’s Football Association. 

It was not only the English authorities cold-shouldered their team returning from Mexico. A couple of years later, the Danish Football Association (DBU) took over the running of women’s football in Denmark and launched an official national team. Games were few and far between, and they never called up Augustesen for an official international, even though she had become one of the great stars of the Italian professional league.

It was much the same story for the Mexican team. The press and cameras departed, and those who carried on playing did so on dusty second-rate pitches, relying on volunteers to keep the teams going. Internationally, there were a few more competitions, the mundialitos, but they were minor events, usually staged in Italy over the duration of a week for six invited teams. Mexico participated in the 1986 event but struggled in a tournament that nobody suggested had world championship status.

Memories of the 1971 World Cup faded, and the tournament had little impact on the later development of women’s football. That revolution was driven by events in the United States. In 1975, Pele joined the New York Cosmos, and soccer suddenly became the most popular sport for children in the U.S. It didn’t require the expensive equipment of baseball or American football, or carry the dangers of the latter.

A group of women descending a plane boarding ramp in Mexico City, waving to people on the ground.
After the excitement of Copa ’71 faded, many of the players who competed found themselves shunted aside and eventually forgotten, including in Mexico. (FIFA)

Americans knew nothing about soccer, including the fact that only boys were supposed to play, and so a generation of American girls grew up playing soccer in mixed games. By the time an official Women’s World Cup started in 1991, U.S. women’s soccer was the world superpower, doing better than its male counterparts, winning two of the first three tournaments and attracting a 94,000 crowd for the 1999 final in Pasadena.

The men who controlled the game slowly came to realize that soccer was a business — and in what business plan did it make sense to deliberately exclude half of the world’s population? With FIFA’s blessing, women’s soccer has gone from strength to strength.

Mexico has been somewhat left behind by the modern growth of the women’s sport, although that gap is closing. Today, the Mexican women’s professional league is in its ninth season, with wide television coverage and sponsorships allowing players to earn a reasonable monthly wage — about the same as a well-paid teacher in a private school.

Attendance hovers around 3,000, good compared to other women’s leagues around the world but dwarfed by the crowds watching men’s games. While Amelia Valverde Villalobos has done well at C.F. Monterrey, and Mónica Vergara has coached the national team, the coaching positions with the big female teams remain stubbornly filled by men.

The Mexican national team ‘El Tri Femenil’ has not become the regional power in the way that the men’s team has been for generations. They have not qualified for the World Cup since 2015, and after a disappointing performance in the 2022 CONCACAF championship, the team will miss the next round of big international tournaments.

As women’s soccer around the world moves slowly but steadily towards equality, the girls of 1971 are finally gaining some recognition. A movie about the Mexican World Cup, “Copa 71,” premiered at the 2023 Toronto International Film Festival to positive reviews. Yet, the battle for equality is ongoing.

Copa 71 | Official Trailer

A documentary produced by Venus and Serena Williams, “Copa ’71” tells the story of the 1971 Mexico City Women’s World Cup via interviews with many of the participants.

As late as 2016, Barcelona FC was slammed online for sending its men’s and women’s teams to the same tournament, giving the male players business-class tickets while the women’s team flew economy.

However, the fact that this was recognized as an injustice perhaps shows how far we have progressed.

Bob Pateman is a Mexico-based historian, librarian and a life term hasher. He is editor of On On Magazine, the international history magazine of hashing.

What I want to ‘waste’ my time on: A perspective from MND co-owner Tamanna Bembenek

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people enjoying a slow pace of life in front of a mural in Campeche, Mexico
"A conversation with a loved one, a walk through the Zócalo or an hour spent watching the sunset over the Pacific holds a value precisely because it defies quantification and comparison," Tamanna writes. (Martín Zetina/Cuartoscuro)

In my previous article, I explored Mexico’s approach to time, which I have found tends to value quality experiences over productivity — a stark contrast to the Americanized view that often treats time as a commodity.

Living in Mexico has prompted me to question: Why does time exist?

Is it for experiencing life or merely a token to be converted into things?

“Alphabet,” acrylic on canvas by Tamanna Bembenek.

I included a quote from Jerry Seinfeld that always stuck with me: “The secret of life is to waste time in ways that you like.

I have been thinking about this a lot lately and have been diving deeper to understand what exactly I want to “waste” my time on and wanted to share my journey with you.

Staying true to my analytical nature, I’ve approached this quest in two complementary ways: first, by gathering wisdom from people’s life experiences (through personal conversations and research), books, podcasts and online research; and second, by examining cultural perspectives through metaphors in movies I have seen in my past. My research probably skews toward an American perspective, but I do believe it reveals universal truths that transcend cultural boundaries.

Collective wisdom from those who’ve lived it:

When asking people over age 50 about what advice they would give their younger selves, several themes emerged consistently. The following is a selective summary of what I found to be most relevant to my quest:

  1. On valuing relationships: Jobs and money will come and go, but neither compensates for what we are lacking in life. Invest in developing relationships. Take trips together.  Go on adventures together. Build a community you want to be a part of.
  2. On worrying less about others’ opinions: When we are young, we tend to worry about what everyone else thinks, and when we are old, we finally realize that nobody else was thinking about us all along. Learn to know you, like you and you will be so much happier with “YOU.”  I noticed this quote by Christopher Walken: “If you knew how quickly people forget the dead, you would stop living to impress people.”
  3. On taking care of health: Having a healthy body along with a healthy mind is important, but they often don’t co-exist. It’s hard to change your life until you make small changes in your daily routine. A quote from an elderly woman: “Being thin is not the end-all, be-all. Eat the piece of pizza and order the dessert. I wasted so much of my late teens and early twenties obsessing over my weight and caloric intake.”
  4. On valuing time: Take risks, learn to fail, travel and see the world when you are young — it informs your choices ahead. You have to slow down to speed up. Many people mention that they regret putting off meaningful experiences until retirement.
  5. On emotions: Learn to let go. Don’t hold grudges. Don’t get angry when you’re stuck in traffic; focus on what you can control. Not everyone deserves power over your emotions; be selective. Don’t feel the need to correct dumb people. Healing doesn’t mean you will always feel joy, it just means you no longer need to make sense of what happened.

On contrasting perspectives on life and death:

Intriguingly, when I did my online research around what we fear the most, it revealed that public speaking ranks as the most common fear, with death being the second most common fear.

This was surprising to me since we can avoid public speaking, but death remains inevitable. So, why should we fear it all through life?  This may also reflect a fundamental difference in cultural approaches to mortality.

American culture often portrays death as mysterious, horrifying and ultimately an individual experience. In contrast, Mexican culture seems to view death as part of life’s cyclical continuum, similar to their conception of time. This perspective manifests beautifully in Día de los Muertos celebrations, where death isn’t feared but celebrated as renewal and rebirth. For many Mexicans, death represents a collective experience where spirits reconnect with loved ones — a view I find more comforting and inherently less fearful.

The most consistent message across philosophical and religious traditions is that life’s meaning emerges not from pursuing happiness directly, but through purposeful engagement with challenges.

A Day of the Dead altar featuring the traditional cempasúchil flowers. (Depositphotos)

A few of my favorite books, Viktor Frankl’s “Man’s Search for Meaning,” Paulo Coelho’s “The Alchemist” and “The Book of Joy” by the Dalai Lama and Desmond Tutu all illuminate this truth from different angles.

Though Mexico isn’t officially designated a “Blue Zone,” author Dan Buettner’s research findings bring this point home for me in a tangible way.

Mexican cultural practices align remarkably with Blue Zone principles. Buettner’s research into Mexico’s unique position among the world’s happiest populations reveals a combination of cultural, environmental and social practices that align with the principles observed in Blue Zones. He emphasizes that Mexicans derive profound happiness from extended familial and social networks, which provide both emotional and financial resilience.

The concept of family extends beyond the nuclear unit to include aunts, uncles and distant cousins, creating a “broad safety net” that buffers against adversity. He observes how Mexicans prioritize social interaction over wealth accumulation, with the happiest individuals engaging in face-to-face socialization for up to six hours daily. His research also suggests Mexicans, culturally, associate happiness with the ability to make choices aligned with personal values, even while up against structural limitations.

Cultural perspectives from some movies I have watched:

In my youth, I remember two movies in particular that explored the purposefulness of life.

In my 20s, I watched Monty Python’s “The Meaning of Life.” The movie explores life’s stages through absurdly humorous, Salvador Dali-like sketches and songs. Its message seems to be that life is ridiculous and chaotic, so it would be best to just laugh at it. It was quintessential British.

Even though I had watched it a couple of times in my twenties (with fellow intellectual geeks in graduate school), between the heavy British accent and the satire, I think the message was a bit lost on me. However, it is worth noting that many prominent comedians of today share the same view.

THE MEANING OF LIFE Clip - Fish (1983) Monty Python Movie

“The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy” is another movie that I watched in my 30s. It basically mocks humanity’s delusion for grandeur, suggesting that life’s lack of inherent meaning is not a problem to solve but a reality to embrace.  I found that perspective funny yet confusing; back then, I was too young to care about such deep and intricate life lessons anyway.

Recently, I decided to rewatch the Pixar movie “Coco” after witnessing/participating in Día de los Muertos celebrations in Mexico for the past few years.  Coco masterfully interweaves age-old traditions, interpersonal connections and questions around our own existence, artfully showing the nature of time being cyclical. This time around, my biggest takeaway from “Coco” was that perhaps self-discovery is the biggest and only purpose of life — in this case, Miguel’s journey of life, reconciling his roots and values with his personal dreams.

These insights illuminate why Mexico’s cyclical approach to time resonates so deeply with me as I have gotten older, where moments are not spent but savored.

My learning is that the quantitative approach to time that we take often leads to comparative frameworks: Did I accomplish more today than yesterday? Am I “using” time better than others? Did I achieve more in a given time than others?

These questions prioritize comparisons over subjective fulfillment. Inadvertently, applying that thinking also often prevents me from living in the present. By contrast, qualitative experiences are deeply personal, based on how something makes me feel.

A conversation with a loved one, a walk through the Zócalo or an hour spent watching the sunset over the Pacific holds a value precisely because it defies quantification and comparison.  It takes a little trust, courage and patience to prioritize my inner voice but my environment is the catalyst in that journey.

Tamanna Bembenek was born in India, studied and worked in the U.S. and now lives in Mexico with her husband, Travis. They are the co-owners of Mexico News Daily. Check out more of Tamanna’s writing below.

Ahorita and the art of finding meaning beyond the clock: A perspective from MND co-owner Tamanna Bembenek

The paradox of simplicity: A perspective from MND co-owner Tamanna Bembenek

Becoming a kid again: How Mexico has unleashed my inner childhood superhero

Mexico and mental health: Exploring the power of traditions and faith

Mystical eagle thought to be extinct in Mexico reappears in Chiapas

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the harpy eagle
Listed as endangered under Mexican law, the harpy eagle is one of the world’s largest birds of prey. (Wikimedia Commons)

The harpy eagle — a striking, almost mythical-looking species thought extinct in Mexico — has been documented in the Lacandon Jungle of Chiapas, marking a landmark moment for conservationists.

The discovery of the elusive eagle, announced this month at the Chiapas Birding and Photo Festival, follows nearly a decade of community-led monitoring in the region.

“For many years, the scientific community considered it an extinct species in Mexico,” said Alan Monroy-Ojeda, a conservationist with a Ph.D. in tropical ecology. “Now, we can announce to the world that harpy eagles still exist here.”

He also said the sighting will be backed by a forthcoming article in a scientific publication, but didn’t say which.

Listed as endangered under Mexican law, the harpy eagle is one of the world’s largest birds of prey, with females typically being larger than males. Though both have a wingspan that can reach 2.2 meters (7 feet), females generally weigh 6 to 9 kilograms (13 to 20 pounds), with males generally 4 to 6 kilograms.

Both sexes are skilled hunters whose diets are dominated by arboreal mammals like monkeys and sloths.

The harpy breeds only once every two to three years, which is unusual among birds and contributes to its rarity, and females manage to conceive only one baby per nesting effort.

Its global population number is estimated to be 20,000 to 50,000, but that range is not very precise. Their biggest numbers are in South America, especially Brazil, while their populations in Central America are extremely small or nearly extirpated, with no reliable numbers available.

The harpy eagle’s reappearance in Chiapas — a southeastern Mexican state historically part of its range — comes after a 2011 photograph by an Indigenous guide near the Mexico-Guatemala border reignited search efforts.

Monroy-Ojeda credited the monitors from Siyaj Chan, a group of Indigenous community members who live near the Chiapas-Guatemala border. Its participants conduct regular field visits and wildlife monitoring, and have received training and equipment.

Alan Monroy-Ojeda signaling how tall harpy owls can grow to be: three feet tall!
Alan Monroy-Ojeda signaling how tall harpy owls can grow to be: three feet tall! (@UVeracruzanaMx/X)

Monroy-Ojeda is the scientific director for Dimensión Natural, a Mexican organization dedicated to studying, documenting, and protecting priority species and their habitats — especially neotropical birds of prey in the Lacandon Jungle.

He warned that the harpy eagle (Harpia harpyja) population remains critically small, citing deforestation and habitat fragmentation as existential threats. He and others are scouting for the best areas to implement a reintroduction strategy to strengthen the conservation of the bird.

“The challenge of conserving this eagle is everyone’s,” he said, acknowledging collaborations with Mexico’s National Commission of Natural Protected Areas (CONANP), Natura y Ecosistemas Mexicanos (a 20-year-old nonprofit dedicated to protecting biodiversity in the Lacandon Rainforest in Chiapas) and local communities.

Efraín Orantes Abadía, a conservationist who witnessed the eagle, recalled his encounter: “It flew next to us, giving incredible shots. Today, there’s hope we can save this majestic bird.”

The Lacandon Jungle, a biodiversity hotspot sometimes affected by cartel violence, has also been a refuge for other rare species, including a black-and-white hawk-eagle whose first Mexican nest was documented in 2023.

Both species face pressures from logging and agricultural expansion, though community-led ecotourism and habitat protection initiatives aim to counter these threats.

Also, both are linked to superstitions and popular beliefs in Indigenous cultures.

The harpy eagle, for example, was sometimes considered a witch or a supernatural being, which led to its persecution and hunting.

Its return offers a fragile victory.

“Immediate action is urgent,” Monroy-Ojeda stressed. “Mexico’s forests — and the life they sustain — are disappearing daily.”

With reports from Aristegui Noticias, Mongabay.com and Por Esto!

Fact check: Border crossings and drug seizures are down, but Mexico and US can’t agree on how much

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Defense Minister General Ricardo Trevilla Trejo in a video call with General Gregory M. Guillot, commander of the United States Northern Command, on Wednesday.
Defense Minister General Ricardo Trevilla Trejo in a video call with General Gregory M. Guillot, commander of the United States Northern Command, on Wednesday. (@Defensamx1/X)

Both the number of migrants detected by United States authorities after illegally crossing the Mexico-U.S. border and the quantity of fentanyl seized at the border have significantly decreased this year.

The reductions indicate that efforts on both sides of the border to stop the entry of migrants and narcotics to the United States are working, even as the U.S. government continues to pressure its Mexican counterpart to do more to stem these flows.

Mexico’s Ministry of Defense (Defensa) referred to the reductions in a statement issued on Wednesday, in which it noted that Defense Minister General Ricardo Trevilla Trejo had spoken on a video call to General Gregory M. Guillot, commander of the United States Northern Command.

“During the call, General Trevilla recognized the efforts made by the armed forces of both countries in coordination with the civilian authorities of each nation,” the ministry said.

Those efforts are “reflected in the recent results provided by the United States Department of Homeland Security (DHS), among which the following stand out,” Defensa said. The statement mentioned:

  • A 97% reduction in the number of “illegal crossings of the border” compared to “the same [unspecified] period of last year.”
  • A 59% increase in seizures of ammunition and parts of weapons compared to “the same [unspecified] period of last year.”
  • A 70% reduction in fentanyl seizures, “with 20,000 pounds of fentanyl, heroin and methamphetamine confiscated in total (45% reduction) in the past 90 days.”

Are the cited reductions for illegal crossings and fentanyl seizures accurate? Exactly which periods are being compared?

Let’s delve into official data to find out.

Migrant encounters 

A so-called “migrant encounter” refers to an instance in which United States authorities come into contact with and apprehend a person who has crossed the Mexico-U.S. border between official ports of entry.

The term “migrant encounter” is also used by U.S. authorities to refer to contact with a person who arrives at an official port of entry on the border and is subsequently deemed to be inadmissible.

According to U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) data, 44,632 migrants were detected between January and March after crossing into the United States between official points of entry. These are the “illegal crossings of the border” that Mexico’s Defense Ministry referred to in its statement.

U.S.-Mexico border crossing
The 44,632 “migrant encounters” reported by Defensa in the first three months of the year represent an 89% decrease, not a 97% decrease. (Shutterstock)

A comparison between the number of detected illegal crossings in one period with the number in an earlier period can be made to determine whether such crossings are going up or down.

The 44,632 “migrant encounters” in the first three months of the year represent an 89% decrease compared to the 402,344 encounters in the same period of 2024.

The reduction is indeed high, but not as high as the 97% decrease Defensa referred to in its statement.

Perhaps the data the DHS supplied to the Defense Ministry refers to the year-over-year decrease in illegal crossings in March. Let’s take a look.

CBP last month detected 7,181 migrants who crossed into Mexico between official ports of entry. That figure represents a reduction of almost 95% compared to the 137,473 “migrant encounters” in March last year when former U.S. president Joe Biden still occupied the White House.

So where does the 97% figure come from? The White House provides the answer in a statement issued on April 1.

The 97% reduction is, in fact, a comparison between the migrant apprehensions last month and those in March 2022, when there were 211,181 between ports of entry.

Conclusion? The claim in the Defense Ministry statement — that there was a 97% reduction in illegal crossings compared to “the same period of last year” — simply doesn’t stack up.

While the number of “migrant encounters” has decreased significantly since United States President Donald Trump began his second term, it should be noted that illegal crossings began to decline after Biden implemented a new border policy last June.

Fentanyl seizures  

Fentanyl seizures at the border can be as used as a proxy to estimate whether the amount of the synthetic opioid entering the United States is going up or down.

Trump has focused intensively on the supply of fentanyl from Mexico to the United States, frequently highlighting that it has caused the overdose deaths of hundreds of thousands of U.S. citizens. In March, he imposed 25% tariffs on all imports from Mexico and most imports from Canada due to what the White House said was the two countries’ failure to adequately stem the flow of “lethal drugs” such as fentanyl into the U.S. Those tariffs remain in effect for non-USMCA-compliant goods.

CBP data shows that 2,330 pounds (1,057 kilograms) of fentanyl were seized at the border between January and March. This figure represents a 49% reduction compared to the same period of last year and a 47% decline compared to the final three months of 2024.

So how was the 70% reduction calculated? The answer to that question is unclear.

Sheinbaum holds ‘productive’ call with Trump as tension looms on trade and border issues

It appears that the figure most likely comes from comparing fentanyl seizures at the Mexico-U.S. border last month (742 pounds) to those in March 2023 (2,848 pounds). The decline in fentanyl seizures in March compared to the same month two years earlier is a slightly higher 74%.

The Defense Ministry’s statement that 20,000 pounds of fentanyl, heroin and methamphetamine were seized at the border in the past 90 days is incongruent with CBP data, which shows a significantly larger amount of those drugs was confiscated.

5 takeaways 

  • The statistics indicate that the number of migrants attempting to illegally cross into the United States from Mexico, and attempts to smuggle fentanyl into the U.S., have declined significantly since Trump took office on Jan. 20 and immediately declared a national emergency at the border.
  • The Trump administration’s stricter patrolling of the border and implementation of stricter border policies have certainly been a major factor in the reduction of illegal crossings and drug smuggling in recent months.
  • Mexico can take partial credit for the reductions given that the federal government led by President Claudia Sheinbaum has ramped up enforcement against cartels and migrants, including by deploying 10,000 National Guard troops to the northern border in early February as part of an agreement with Trump to stave off tariffs on Mexican goods. Sheinbaum has attributed the decline in the quantity of fentanyl seized at the border to the increase in confiscations of the powerful synthetic opioid in Mexico, where the drug is manufactured with precursor chemicals illegally imported from China.
  • The reductions in both the number of migrants and the quantity of fentanyl reaching the United States has not completely appeased Trump. Late last month, the U.S. president said that Mexico has “stepped it up a lot” in the fight against illegal migration and narcotics, but just this week he asserted that the Mexican government is “very afraid” of drug cartels. While Trump lifted his “fentanyl tariffs” on Mexican goods that comply with the USMCA free trade pact, they continue to apply to non-USMCA compliant products.
  • Don’t take government statements and data at face value (the United States so-called “reciprocal tariff” rates — which many experts concluded are not in fact reciprocal — provide a good example of the need to exercise caution).

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

Conafor: Tepozteco wildfire completely contained after 9 days

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A firefighting helicopter flies over Tepoztlán national park
Over 400 firefighters from state, municipal and community ranks battled the blaze. (Margarito Pérez Retana/Cuartoscuro)

The National Forest Commission (Conafor) said on Thursday that a complex of wildfires burning in the El Tepozteco National Park, just south of Mexico City, has been contained.

The fire — which started April 9 near the village of Santo Domingo Ocotitlán, Morelos — consumed more than 1,200 hectares of the natural protected area above and to the east of the city of Tepoztlán. 

As of Thursday evening, it had been 90% controlled and 85% extinguished.

Tepoztlán Mayor Perseo Quiroz, citing the amount of time it took to contain the wildfire, said it was among the biggest and most destructive in recent memory. 

The mayor said that early indications are that the fire was caused by human activity, speculating that the culprit likely hoped to reduce the Natural Park acreage and have the area rezoned for other uses. 

On March 31, state authorities opened an arson investigation related to a wildfire north of Tepoztlán that threatened the iconic pyramid in the El Tepozteco Archaeological Zone.

Conafor credited efficient organizational efforts from the Regional Incident Management Team (REMI) for containing and suppressing the blaze as it spread south from Santo Domingo Ocotitlán — about 80 kilometers south of Mexico City — to Amatlán de Quetzalcóatl, nearly 10 kilometers away.

The REMI utilized 400 state, municipal and community firemen who battled high winds and low temperatures which created a hazardous thermal belt. A thermal belt refers to a band of warmer air that forms on slopes due to drainage winds, producing strong, localized updrafts and downdrafts that can limit the effectiveness of air tankers. 

Late Thursday, two air tankers were removed to fight fires elsewhere, while two remain in the area to ensure that the El Tepozteco wildfire is completely suppressed.

Conafor reported that 123 wildfires remain ablaze in 28 states, and more than 52,000 hectares have been damaged. At least 33 of the fires are located in Natural Protected Areas.

A pyramid ruin at El Tepozteco rises from the mist
Saved from wildfire: the stunning ruins of Tepozteco. (Margarito Pérez Retana/Cuartoscuro)

The states most affected by wildfires are Chihuahua, Michoacán, Oaxaca, Guerrero, Morelos, Durango and Sinaloa.

More than 4,300 firefighters are currently in the field, in addition to Conafor officials and local agents.

While firefighters have suppressed 31 wildfires in the past week, the number of active wildfires has actually increased since Sunday (114), with 14,000 additional hectares affected. 

Among the fires suppressed this week was the Chichinautzin Biological Corridor-El Tepozteco wildfire, which straddled Milpa Alta, Mexico City’s southernmost borough, and the national forest north of Tlalnepantla, Morelos. 

Conafor also reported that a 35-hectare fire that threatened to encroach on the Mexico City-Cuernavaca (Morelos) highway had been fully extinguished.

With reports from La Jornada, Milenio, Diario de México and Infobae

Art in transit: How Mexico City’s metro doubles as a museum

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Art exhibit in the Mexico City Metro
In the Bellas Artes station, find a trippy tunnel featuring Pedro Friedeberg murals and light displays. (Cuartoscuro)

“The Mexico City Metro is much more than a public transport system. It has become a microcosm in constant movement, whose daily life reflects the diversity, emotions and above all the identity of the people who travel in it.”

— Quote from the photography exhibition “Inquieta Cotidianidad” in the La Raza station

Mexico City Metro orange train
A “gusano naranja” — what Mexico City Metro users call the classic orange trains that transport three million passengers each day. (Peter Davies)

The song “Sandunga” by Puerto Rican “King of Reggaetón” Don Omar blares from a television to a captive audience of commuters standing just behind an embossed yellow line. 

Below the TV is a Maya stele from the Izapa archeological site in Chiapas featuring intricate bas-reliefs. This juxtaposition of culture — the ancient and the very modern — plays out on a platform of the Bellas Artes metro station in the subterranean heart of Mexico City.

I fell in love with Mexico City’s metro more than a decade ago when I undertook a project to visit every station of the system (there are 163) and the surrounding neighborhoods. The pulsating energy of the system, its incessant commerce and crush of commuters all enchanted me.

So did the amazing and incredibly varied expressions of culture on display: underground urban art, pre-Columbian relics, detailed murals, live music, the skeletal remains of an extinct animal, photography exhibitions, performers of all stripes, and stained glass windows casting technicolor shadows.

All this, and much, much more, is available to Mexico City residents and visitors alike for the bargain-basement admission price of 5 pesos (US $0.25), the cost of getting through the turnstiles at any station along the 12 color-coded lines.

I have enjoyed this visual and auditory feast for years as I traveled around Mexico City, but until a recent Friday, I hadn’t specifically set out to experience it, to purposefully make a day of it like one does meandering through an expansive art museum.

Line 3 wonders: The world’s largest art gallery and a pyramid — yes, a pyramid!

It was Friday morning rush hour — best avoided if possible — when I entered the División del Norte station, where legendary Mexican composers and musicians such as Agustín Lara, Juan Gabriel, Ana Gabriel and Consuelo Velázquez are honored in a permanent exhibition.

I zipped up the olive green Line 3 to the Hidalgo station, home to the largest public art gallery in the world, according to the Sistema de Transporte Colectivo, the official name of the metro system. The “Involuntary Mexico” gallery, curated by British artists Millree Hughes and Paul Conneally, was inaugurated here in 2019 as part of the 50th anniversary celebrations of the Mexico City Metro. It features art by more than 300 artists from 50 countries, including a wide array of eye-catching photographs and eclectic, collage-style murals, some of which depict scenes of urban decay.

Art in transit: How Mexico City’s metro doubles as a museum

While there is an international flavor to the aesthetic delights of Metro Hidalgo, the Bellas Artes station — just one stop over on the blue Line 2 — is distinctly Mexican.

Here you will find an extensive collection of pre-Columbian relics including the Maya stele mentioned above, a Toltec Chac Mool sculpture and a Huastec “feminine figure” carved out of stone. You can also see a wide array of painted artworks, including “El Mural de Bonampak,” a reproduction by Guatemalan-Mexican artist Rina Lazo of a fresco on an interior wall of the imposing structure at the Bonampak archaeological site in Chiapas.

For a more surreal experience, take a walk through the Galería Metro (the metro gallery), replete with trippy Pedro Friedeberg murals and light displays. The journey through the gallery will take you to the Line 8 side of the Bellas Artes station, where more very Mexican murals await, including one featuring El Palacio de Bellas Artes (The Palace of Fine Arts), from which the station derives its name.

Perhaps the cultural pièce de résistance of the Mexico City Metro is the Ehécatl Pyramid, located in the Pino Suárez station in the historic center of the capital. Uncovered in 1967 during the construction of the station, the pyramid is dedicated to the wind deity Ehécatl, one of the manifestations of the feathered serpent deity Quetzalcóatl.

The pyramid, part of a larger ceremonial complex that is believed to have been built between 1400 and 1521, is “Mexico’s smallest archaeological area,” according to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH). And that’s not the only superlative that applies to the structure. 

Pino Suárez station pyramid
Above ground, the plaza surrounding the Pino Suárez station is a bustling mercado. Just below it lies the country’s “busiest” pre-Columbian pyramid. (Peter Davies)

The travel publication México Desconocido says that the pyramid, which is also visible from street level, is “the busiest” archaeological site in the country given that 54 million people pass by it every year while using the Pino Suárez station.

During my 15-minute visit, I didn’t see anyone else stop to purposefully take in the pre-Columbian structure built centuries ago by the Mexica people, but one amorous young couple used it as a romantic backdrop for their very enthusiastic public display of affection.

Find mammoth bones on Line 4 and Olmec heads on Line 6

After admiring the pyramid, I rode along the pink Line 1 — the metro system’s inaugural line — to the Candelaria station, located adjacent to the Chamber of Deputies, Mexico’s lower house of Congress. A stained glass wall reminiscent of the De Stijl art movement greeted me after I ascended a flight of stairs, casting a multi-colored shadow on the station floor.

I paced through a broad, brightly-lit transbordo (transfer) tunnel to get to Line 4 to take a train up to the Talismán station in the northern Mexico City borough of Gustavo A. Madero. Mammoths were on my mind.

Below a glass dome at the eastern entrance to Metro Talismán lies the skeleton of a mammoth found in 1978 during the construction of Line 4 of the metro. Experts estimate that the four-meter-tall adult specimen died between 10,000 and 12,000 years ago “without the intervention of man.” The presence of the extinct animal’s bones in the station is a testament that the Mexico City Metro is not just an immense art and anthropology museum, but a natural science one as well.

Commuters also come face-to-face with the past (quite literally) in the Tezozómoc station, where giant Olmec heads and other stone artifacts are on display.

You never know what kinds of passengers you may encounter in the Mexico City Metro. (Peter Davies)

These cabezas colosales (colossal heads) were found in the southeastern Gulf region of Mexico, where the “mother culture” of Mesoamerica — the Olmec civilization — once thrived. Located on the red Line 6 in the north of Mexico City, Tezozómoc is one of the farther-flung stations on the metro system, but the trip to see the Olmec heads is worth it. These impressive fixtures form a striking juxtaposition with the so-called gusanos naranja (orange worms) as they whiz into the station.

The Tunnel of Science

I ventured back along the red line to Metro Instituto del Petróleo, where oil drums decorate the station’s interior. From there I traveled southward to Metro La Raza, a dual-line station at the intersection of Lines 3 and 5.

La Raza houses one of the most unique exhibits in the Metro system: El Túnel de la Ciencia, or The Tunnel of Science.

Opened in 1988, the tunnel is considered the world’s first “scientific-cognitive museum” in a public transport system, according to the Metro. There is a wealth of scientific information in the underground passageway, with a particular focus on the yonder beyond earth — i.e. the universe. The tunnel’s centerpiece is a glowing representation of the celestial sphere, replete with the 12 constellations of the zodiac.

At 20 meters below ground, the metro’s Tunnel of Science may be your best shot at seeing a starry sky in Mexico City. (Peter Davies)

According to the Metro, the aim of The Tunnel of Science is to bring science and technology to the masses, and in particular, awaken an interest in those fields of study among children and young people who pass through the La Raza station.

Stars are not often visible in the night sky of Mexico City due to light and air pollution, but any budding astronomer is guaranteed a clear view of the constellations at this spectacular Metro attraction.

Rock superstars and everyday metro riders 

Another worthwhile stop on any art and culture tour of the Mexico City Metro is the London Underground-themed Auditorio station, located along Paseo de la Reforma, the capital’s most famous boulevard.

After ascending a series of towering escalators — orange Line 7 is the deepest line of the subway system — I reached the expansive mural “Un Viaje por el Rock and Roll” by Mexican artist Jorge Flores Manjarrez.

As its name indicates, the mural is indeed a journey through rock and roll history, featuring a who’s who of international rockers including Mick Jagger, Patti Smith, The Beatles, Tina Turner, Jimi Hendrix, Bono and Santana.

The iconic musicians are seen enjoying the always energetic and often chaotic streets of Mexico City, or in the words of the muralist, making the city “their own.”

The mural “Un Viaje por el Rock and Roll” (A Trip through Rock and Roll) by Mexican artist Jorge Flores Manjarrez awaits passengers arriving at Auditorio station, which is widely used by concert-goers on their way to see a show at the National Auditorium. (Peter Davies)

In 2018, Flores told the news site Sin Embargo that the Auditorio mural project scared him at first because he had never worked on such a large scale.

However, the long-time rock and roll fan ultimately enjoyed the process of creating the colorful and colossal artwork — and countless commuters have enjoyed observing the mural over the past decade or so since it was completed. Flores has another mural in the Chabacano Station that features Mexican rock legends.

Another artist whose work is on display in the Mexico City metro system is Jason Schell, a native of Pennsylvania. Schell, also an art teacher, has two murals in the metro system: “A Sunday Afternoon Under Mexico City” in the Cuauhtémoc station (currently closed as remodeling work on Line 1 continues) and “The Three Workers” in the Salto de Agua station.

I’ve enjoyed both artworks during my years riding the metro.

“The murals were inspired by the people of Mexico City and art history,” Schell told Mexico News Daily.

“There were direct connections to art history with those pieces, particularly other public pieces in recognition of the importance of public artwork. One was a reference to [Mexican muralist] Diego Rivera (pretty obvious), the other was Caravaggio (The Three Matthews),” he wrote in an email.

 

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A post shared by Jason Schell (@jschellart)

“There is something about the grittiness of the worker pieces, and also the passenger pieces,” Schell said. “[They show] a love for everyday people and the work they do and the sacredness of all that.”

Schell said that “the fact that Mexico City exhibits art in the subway should be recognized … as completely unique and a testament to how it celebrates the arts as a city.”

As for his own opportunity to display his work to the millions of people who use the metro on a daily basis, he said:

“Like a lot of things in life, there was timing and luck involved, and being ready to take an opportunity. Muraling and street art weren’t a saturated market yet and my pieces looked unique enough to the metro authorities that they offered me the gigs.”

Schell told MND that having his murals on display in the Mexico City Metro is a “huge honor” and noted that “public transportation continues to be a source of inspiration for [his] paintings.”

“There’s something really fascinating about it all from a compositional and aesthetic standpoint: perspective, shiny metal, hundreds of different people. I just love it from an artistic standpoint,” he said.

Schell also said that “public art, particularly when it’s not embedded with too much corporate sponsorship, is incredibly important as it brings aesthetic awareness and thought, and all the vibrancy that comes with that, to the masses.”

Mexico City Metro users get that in spades.

Other must-see sights on the Mexico City Metro

Virtually all of Mexico City’s metro stations — if not all — have something of artistic and cultural value that will demand your gaze, even just for a minute or two. Many can hold your attention for much longer than that, provided you’re not in a rush to get anywhere.

A magic moment on Mexico City’s metro. (Peter Davies)

Want a Lacandon Jungle experience? Head to the Viveros station on Line 3. Want to learn about the Metro system’s history (and see its now obsolete paper tickets)? Pay a visit to the Metro Museum at the Mixcoac Station (Lines 7 and 12). Interested in Mexico’s rich history of caricature and political cartooning? Get off (or on) at Zapata station on Line 3, and catch a movie — free of charge — while you’re there. Feel like immersing yourself in the world of Mexican boxing history? Knock yourself out at the Garibaldi/Lagunilla station (Lines 8 and B).

The list goes on.

The iconography of the metro — including pictograms for each and every station — is also worth checking out. Just look up when you’re on a train and you’ll see the symbols of the line you’re traveling on maps above the windows. In the 1960s, American graphic designer Lance Wyman led the initiative to design icons to visually identify the different stations. They were (and still are) especially useful for passengers with limited literacy skills.

Toward the end of my recent day of metro traversing, I was treated to an in-carriage show by two young magicians, who performed a variety of impressive tricks — their sleight of hand art — and thus added some exuberance and awe to an otherwise ordinary trip. At the end of the performance I handed over a ten-peso coin, double the amount I paid to view all the other cultural attractions in the Metro.

But even with the additional outlay, my cultural excursion in the Mexico City Metro was still a bargain — and an enriching experience in the depths of this enchanting and amazing city.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

UNESCO adds Mexico’s historic aerial photo archive to Memory of the World Register

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ICA photo archive Mexico
The photo archive comprises 1,165,700 photos taken between 1932 and 1994,  with images representing roughly 85% of Mexican territory. (@ICAMexico/X)

Iconic aerial photographs taken by Mexico’s Civil Engineers Associates Foundation were among 74 collections selected for UNESCO’s international Memory of the World Register. The entries came from 72 countries and four international organizations.

UNESCO’s Executive Board declared the Aerial Photography Series of Mexico’s Ingenieros Civiles Asociados (ICA) Foundation to be “of exceptional universal value” during its 221st session on Thursday.

ICA’s aerial photo archive provides a unique perspective on the evolution of Mexico City and other regions throughout the country’s history, offering valuable insights into urban development and infrastructure.

Catherine Bloch, the president of the Mexican Committee of the Memory of the World Register, described the collection as wholly unique among global archives.

“[The archive] provides a map of how the country has changed which is important not just for Mexico, but for the world,” she said. “It is a phenomenal portrait and very few nations have such a historical record.”

ICA’s aerial photo archive comprises 1,165,700 photos taken between 1932 and 1994,  with images representing roughly 85% of Mexican territory. The collection also includes birds-eye photos of El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras, Belize and Guatemala.

The archive is separated into three series: vertical (taken from directly overhead and comprising more than 900,000 photos), oblique (taken from an angle less than 87 degrees) and mosaic (geometric compositions using the vertical photos). 

Researchers have used the ICA collection to analyze the changes and transformations that have occurred in Mexico over time.

In 2019, the Dolores Olmedo Museum celebrated ICA’s 70th anniversary by curating the Mexico City Landscape exhibit. The exhibit juxtaposed three murals (by Juan O’Gorman, Francisco Eppens and Luis Nishisawa) with ICA’s aerial photographs to illustrate Mexico City’s evolution from centuries-old capital to modern metropolis.

Established in 1992, the Memory of the World Program aims to promote the preservation of — and universal access to — the documentary heritage of humanity. It is a compendium of documents, manuscripts, oral traditions, audio-visual materials, library and archival holdings deemed to be of universal value. 

Known as “documentary heritage collections,” the program features international, regional and national registers. With this week’s entries, the global register now totals 570 collections.

Mexico boasts the most entries to UNESCO’s World Memory Register in the Americas with 115 across all three registries, including 18 regional items and 15 international items. The country’s 44 exclusive entries rank sixth worldwide.

In February, UNESCO inscribed eight collections featuring items about architecture, literature, radio journalism, photojournalism, radio dramas, letters and diaries into Mexico’s national register. Two other collections were added to UNESCO’s regional register.  

The previous Mexican collection added to the international registry, back in 2017, was the Manuel Álvarez Bravo Archive of Negatives, Publications and Documents.

Among the Mexican entries in the international registry are the works of Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, a collection of 92 codexes, the original negative of Luis Buñuel’s film “Los Olvidados” and Puebla’s Palafox Library

With reports from Reforma and La Jornada

Fyre Festival 2 abandons Playa del Carmen plans

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Fyre Festival 2 postponed
Fyre Festival 2 changed its location to Playa del Carmen shortly after Isla Mujeres officials stated that they had not received any information about the event from the organizers. (Fyre)

Fyre Festival 2, which was scheduled to take place from May 30 to June 2 in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, has been postponed indefinitely, according to its organizers. 

In an email to ticket holders, organizers said that “the event has been postponed and a new date will be announced.” They also said that a refund had been issued. 

 

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A post shared by Billy McFarland (@pyrtbilly)

Tickets for Fyre Festival 2 range between US $1,400 and $1.1 million. According to its creator, Billy McFarland, there are 1,800 tickets for sale.

Fyre Festival 2 is the sequel to the ill-fated event in 2017, for which McFarland faced criminal charges of fraud in the United States. After spending three years in prison, McFarland announced earlier this year that there would be a second edition of the festival in Mexico.  

This week’s announcement is the second time in three months that organizers have changed the festival’s venue. In February, they announced it would take place on Isla Mujeres in the Riviera Maya. Later, in March, they said the festival would move to Playa del Carmen. 

Shortly after, local authorities in Quintana Roo said that no person or company had yet requested permits for the event.   

However, early in April, McFarland claimed that they had been working directly with the government of Playa del Carmen and their officials since March 5, 2025, to ensure a safe and successful event. 

In a post on Instagram, he published 14 screenshots of emails, social media posts and official documents from the municipal government of Playa del Carmen and payment slips, arguing that his team had followed the proper processes and obtained all relevant permits for the event.

“All media reports suggesting our team has not been working with the government of Playa del Carmen are simply inaccurate and based on misinformation,” McFarland wrote in the post. 

Despite the controversy, organizers said in the Wednesday email update verified by The New York Times that the event is still happening — just in a different location. Details about the musical lineup also remain nebulous.

“We are vetting new locations and will announce our host destination soon,” the email said. “Our priorities remain unchanged: delivering an unforgettable, safe and transparent experience.”

Organizers advised ticket holders that they will be able to repurchase tickets once the new date is announced, “if it works for your schedule.”

With reports from ABC News