Privacy for sunbathers has been easier to find on Tulum beaches lately as hotel occupancy plummeted in September. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)
A sharp drop in hotel occupancy in the Quintana Roo resort destination of Tulum is causing alarm among the local tourism and commercial sectors, with videos circulating on social media showing empty streets, restaurants and beaches.
Hotel occupancy fell by 17.5 percentage points in September compared to the same month last year, from 66.7% to 49.2%, according to the state Tourism Ministry (Sedetur).
High prices for attractions, especially for foreign tourists, have been cited as a possible reason for the dip in tourists to Tulum. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)
Mayor Diego Castañón did not deny the low figures, attributing them to a slower-than-usual low season. But he claimed that the seriousness of the situation has been exaggerated by a smear campaign orchestrated by the private sector and social media influencers.
He assured the media that tourism to Tulum should rebound from November through the end of the year.
The governor’s interpretation of the tourism drop is not universally shared, especially since the slowdown began to be noticeable over the summer, typically a high season for the beach destination.
Jorge Portillo Mánica, a member of the Tulum City Council, reported that during the 2025 summer break, hotels in the area of Tulum had reached a mere 15% occupancy.
“This isn’t a game,” Portillo said back then. “Tulum is experiencing its worst tourism crisis, and the sargassum is compounding the worst tourist season in history.”
Haydee Hernández, head of the Tourism Promotion for the Tulum City Council, told the news outlet Animal Político that one of the causes behind the atypical tourism drop during this slow season is the large quantities of sargassum washing up on the coast.
The noxious seaweed invaded Quintana Roo’s beaches with unprecedented intensity for much of the year. The situation became so critical over the summer that nearly all beaches from the northern part of Tulum to the southern coast of Playa del Carmen, as well as the eastern part of Cozumel, were on red alert.
“Even small shops wanted to sell you a soda for 200 pesos. I hope they saved up for the time they [now have] to enjoy it,” a user said in a post with over 69,000 likes.
In Mesoamerican cosmogony, the scorpion was a prominent celestial deity associated with Venus, the morning star, which in turn was linked to Tláloc and Quetzalcóatl, deities of rain and wind, respectively. (J. Neely et al., Ancient Mesoamerica 2025)
A 1,400-year-old scorpion-shaped effigy mound discovered in the Tehuacán Valley in the state of Puebla might have served as an astronomical observatory, researchers say.
The discovery, disclosed in the University of Cambridge’s Ancient Mesoamerica journal, has been described as “unprecedented.” Effigy mounds — prehistoric earthen mounds shaped like an animal, spirit or other figure — are common in the midwestern United States, but extremely uncommon in Mesoamerica.
Archaeologists came across the mound and plaza complex in 2004 while conducting a survey to document the prehistoric canal systems in the central portion of the Tehuacán Valley, about 160 miles southeast of Mexico City.
The scorpion-shaped mound is strategically placed in the center of the largest preserved prehistoric irrigation system in Mesoamerica, comprising approximately 100 square kilometers of canals that have functioned continuously for more than 4,000 years.
Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), which collaborated on the research, said in a press release that, based on the evidence gathered, the site appears to have been “part of a civic/ceremonial complex possibly used for astronomical observation.”
Researchers surmise that the orientation of the scorpion-shaped structure allowed the ancient inhabitants of the Tehuacán Valley to observe exactly when the sun rose over specific points of the mound during the solstices, enabling them to optimize their crops in one of Mexico’s driest regions.
If it was used for solar observation, researchers said it could provide “an insight into the integration of calendrical ritual with the surrounding complex system of fields and irrigation canals.”
The scorpion mound is 62.5 meters (205 feet) long, its body, head and pincers extending in an east-northeast orientation. It is 13.2 meters (43 feet) wide by 80 centimeters (31 inches) high and the space between the pincers is 22.1 meters (72.5 feet).
In Mesoamerican cosmogony, the scorpion was a prominent celestial deity associated with Venus, the morning star, which in turn was linked to Tláloc and Quetzalcóatl, deities of rain and wind, respectively.
Also uncovered at the site — within the tail and stinger of the scorpion — were large quantities of ceramics, including surface-decorated and polychromes, indicating a Late Classic and Postclassic occupation.
The discovery of the ceramics not only revealed the mound’s age, but also hinted at its social and economic significance.
The ceramic diversity — the materials correspond to ceramics from Cholula, the Mixteca region of Oaxaca and the Gulf of Mexico — suggests the site was a fundamental part of the valley’s commercial and social networks with the main power centers of Mesoamerica.
A modern offering was found on top of the head, according to INAH. The offering consisted of two light and dark brown tripod vessels containing tobacco and chili peppers, suggesting that the site continues to be part of the cultural practices of the present-day population.
The cozy confines of NPR's "Tiny Desk" has hosted some of the world's most talented singer-songwriters, and now Macario Martínez is one of them. (YouTube)
A Mexico City street sweeper whose sweet, simple music turned him into a viral sensation eight months ago reached another plateau last week with an appearance on NPR’s celebrated “Tiny Desk Concert” series.
Less than 24 hours later, the yearning lyrics and simple guitar of “Sueña Lindo, Corazón” (“Sweet dreams, sweetheart”) had captivated thousands on social media.
“Life demands a lot, and I’m just a street sweeper who wants you to hear his music,” he posted, drawing empathy nationwide.
Flash forward to last Friday, when Martínez followed in the footsteps of an eye-popping list of major stars who had made “Tiny Desk” appearances over the past 17 years — including Sting, Dua Lipa, Alicia Keys, Ed Sheeran, Jackson Browne, Adele, John Legend, Bad Bunny, Dave Matthews and Justin Bieber.
Like his predecessors, Martínez played in NPR’s famous cramped space, behind a work desk surrounded by shelves cluttered with books, memorabilia and office supplies — an unlikely venue that’s nevertheless coveted by top-of-the-line musicians.
He appeared during Hispanic Heritage Month in the U.S., which runs from Sept. 15 through Oct. 15. During that timespan, NPR Music has “rebranded” the series “El Tiny” and has been celebrating with appearances by Cuban-American superstar Gloria Estefan, Colombian pop star Carlos Vives, Argentine rock icon Fito Páez and others.
Macario Martinez: Tiny Desk Concert
Martínez played with four musicians and a distinctive array of traditional instruments — including the “mosquito” jarana jarocha (the smallest version of a guitar-shaped instrument from Veracruz) and a quijada de burro (a “jawbone of a donkey” that makes a distinctive rattling sound when struck).
He debuted songs from his upcoming album, “Si mañana ya no estoy” (“If I’m Not Here Tomorrow”), due for release later this month, with a set list of “Sueña Lindo, Corazón,” “Estrellas,” “Enhierbado” and “Azul.”
“Sueña Lindo, Corazón” was Martínez’s original viral hit, which has largely been scrubbed from online. In the months since then, an “official” video of the song — which includes lyrics that translate to “How come the not-knowing hurts so much?” — has been released.
Going into the final song of his set, Martínez spoke about himself and his bandmates.
“We all come from pretty remote places in Mexico,” he said in Spanish. “Each of us, we’ve been through a lot in our lives. And today, life’s path brought us here. This song is called ‘Azul’, and long live Mexico.”
Municipal, state and federal authorities, including the army, contributed to the disaster response, which included the use of boats to rescue stranded residents. (Pablo Lemus/Facebook)
Torrential rain fell in Puerto Vallarta on Saturday night and Sunday morning, flooding more than 1,000 homes and claiming the life of a man whose vehicle was swept into a canal.
Associated with the remnants of Tropical Storm Raymond, the storm lasted almost nine hours, according to media reports. The heavy rain was accompanied by strong gusts of wind and lightning.
A number of canals in Puerto Vallarta overflowed as a result of the rain, while several main roads were flooded.
Jalisco Governor Pablo Lemus said on social media on Sunday evening that 703 homes, 85 businesses and two schools had been flooded.
On Monday morning, Jalisco Civil Protection chief Sergio Ramírez López said that 1,260 “affected homes” had been counted in the Pacific coast city.
The Jalisco Civil Protection Unit said Sunday night that its personnel had carried out a range of “support actions” in response to the flooding, including rescuing people, monitoring “vulnerable areas,” cleaning up roads and conducting a preliminary evaluation of damage.
Municipal, state and federal authorities, including the army, contributed to the disaster response, which included the use of boats to rescue stranded residents.
Shelters were set up in different parts of Puerto Vallarta to provide temporary accommodation for people who were forced to leave their homes.
Parts of Puerto Vallarta saw 178.3 mm of rain occumulate over the weekend. (Conagua)
Mayor Luis Ernesto Munguía said on social media that he and the Puerto Vallarta municipal government were saddened to see that “many families” had lost “everything” due to the flooding.
He said that municipal authorities acted “immediately” to deliver bed bases and mattresses so that members of affected families could “at least sleep peacefully.”
Munguía also said that municipal authorities delivered “several refrigerators” to families who lost theirs due to flooding.
In Jalcocotán, a community in San Blas, dozens of families had to go to a shelter because their homes were flooded, the newspaper Informador reported.
Man found dead in vehicle
A man died after his vehicle was swept by floodwaters into a canal. The man’s body was found inside his SUV in the El Contentillo canal in the La Floresta neighborhood, according to media reports. The vehicle only came into clear view after the water level in the canal dropped on Sunday.
The La Jornada newspaper reported that “an indeterminate number” of vehicles were swept away by floodwaters in Puerto Vallarta during the lengthy storm on Saturday night and Sunday morning.
Soldier electrocuted, but reported in stable condition
Jalisco Civil Protection authorities said that a soldier was electrocuted in an unspecified “incident” while contributing to the disaster relief efforts in flooded areas of Puerto Vallarta.
He was transferred to the hospital and reported to be in “stable” condition.
An aerial shot of Álamo, Veracruz, which was inundated by rainfall from the simultaneous passage of Hurricane Priscilla and Tropical Storm Raymond. (Alan Scholes/Cuartoscuro)
The death toll from incidents related to flooding in Mexico last week has risen to 64, the federal government reported on Monday morning.
An additional 65 people are missing, indicating that the number of rain-related fatalities is likely to continue to rise.
Among the cities and towns where streets, homes and businesses have been inundated with water are Poza Rica (pictured above), Álamo and Tuxpan in Veracruz; Huehuetla in Hidalgo; and Huauchinango in Puebla. (Jessamyn Nazario Mendo/Cuartoscuro)
The deaths occurred across four states that received extremely heavy rain last week, according to information presented by national Civil Protection chief Laura Velázquez at President Claudia Sheinbaum’s morning press conference.
Veracruz is the worst-affected state with 29 fatalities and 18 people missing.
In Hidalgo, 21 people have died and 43 people are missing.
Puebla has recorded 13 deaths and four people are missing.
Among those who died are victims of drownings in flood waters as well as people buried by landslides.
Velázquez said that the four states where fatalities occurred, as well as San Luis Potosí, received heavy rain between Oct. 6 and 9. The precipitation was associated with Post-Tropical Cyclone Priscilla, formerly a hurricane, and Tropical Storm Raymond. Various rivers burst their banks and landslides occurred in several states as a result of the torrential rain.
Flooding affected scores of municipalities across Veracruz, Hidalgo, Puebla, Querétaro and San Luis Potosí. Flooding and landslides caused “132 interruptions” to federal highways, reported Jesús Antonio Esteva Medina, federal minister for infrastructure, communications and transport. All but two of those interruptions have been cleared, Sheinbaum said.
Many secondary highways and other roads were also cut off by flooding and landslides. The director of the Federal Electricity Commission, Emilia Esther Calleja Alor, reported that almost 263,000 electricity customers in flood-affected states lost power in recent days. She said that electricity service had been restored for 84% of those customers by 6 a.m. Monday.
Among the cities and towns where streets, homes and businesses have been inundated with water are Poza Rica, Álamo and Tuxpan in Veracruz; Huehuetla in Hidalgo; and Huauchinango in Puebla. Dozens of shelters were set up to provide emergency accommodation to people forced to evacuate their homes. Authorities have also provided medical assistance and meals, and distributed groceries and water.
National Defense Minister Ricardo Trevilla said Monday that 7,347 members of the Mexican Army and the National Guard were deployed to Veracruz, Hidalgo, Puebla, Querétaro and San Luis Potosí to respond to the flooding and damage caused by the heavy rain. In addition, 3,300 members of the Mexican Navy were deployed to Veracruz, Puebla, Hidalgo and San Luis Potosí, said Navy Minister Raymundo Morales.
Navy Minister Raymundo Morales said on Monday that an additional 3,300 members of the Navy were deployed to Veracruz, Puebla, Hidalgo and San Luis Potosí to assist with clean-up and aid delivery. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)
Helicopters, boats, heavy machinery, mobile kitchens and water treatment systems and drones, among other equipment, have supported efforts to respond to the prevailing conditions.
Trevilla said that the Air Force established three air bridges on Sunday to get supplies to communities in Veracruz, Hidalgo and Puebla.
Authorities are set to commence a damage census on Monday. Sheinbaum said that it is estimated that 100,000 homes have been damaged by flooding, and pledged to provide support to the affected people. Those people will receive initial financial support in the coming days, said Welfare Minister Ariadna Montiel. Assistance to replace damaged electrical appliances and other household items will be provided sometime after the census has been completed.
Sheinbaum said “there are sufficient resources” to respond to the flooding and assist affected people.
Sheinbaum visits flood-affected areas, faces criticism from locals
Sheinbaum visited various flood-affected municipalities on Sunday, including Poza Rica in Veracruz, where angry residents accused authorities of failing to adequately respond to the situation.
“… The governor isn’t doing anything,” complained the woman, referring to Rocio Nahle.
Another Poza Rica resident complained that the army “doesn’t want to go into houses” to help people. “There are families that haven’t received help yet,” he said.
Other residents pointed out that people are missing, with one person asking the president what her “message” was for them.
Sheinbaum told residents that her government was committed to assisting the clean-up efforts in Veracruz and ensuring that people had food to eat and clean water to drink.
Sheinbaum also visited flood-affected parts of Puebla, including Huauchinango and the community of La Ceiba, located in the municipality of Xicotepec.
On Friday, the Marigalante experienced a critical failure in its bilge pumps, which are designed to remove water from the ship’s hull. (pirateshipvallarta.com)
The Marigalante, the pirate ship that for decades sailed across Banderas Bay, now lies submerged, a dramatic casualty of flooding and mechanical failure that has shaken Puerto Vallarta’s tourism community and saddened locals and residents who considered it a symbol of their coastal home.
The incident occurred on Friday afternoon, Oct. 10, when the wooden galleon-style vessel began taking on water. Authorities confirmed that no tourists were aboard, and all crew members were safely evacuated. However, despite hours of intervention from emergency teams and the Mexican Navy, the vessel ultimately succumbed to the flooding.
According to initial reports, the Marigalante experienced a critical failure in its bilge pumps, which are designed to remove water from the ship’s hull. Without their functioning, the ship gradually flooded from the inside. At one point, water levels reportedly reached 1.5 meters inside the lower deck.
Crews from the Jalisco State Civil Protection Unit (UEPCBJ), local fire departments and the Navy responded quickly, attempting to stabilize the ship and repair the pumping systems. Efforts briefly slowed the flooding, but by the late afternoon on Friday, structural damage and water weight overcame the vessel’s buoyancy. The ship began to tilt and lose balance before the stern sank, after which towing vessels and civil protection personnel maneuvered the ship to bring it closer to shore.
The Marigalante, an ornate, wooden replica of Christopher Columbus’s Santa María, has long been a fixture of Puerto Vallarta’s skyline. Measuring approximately 60 meters, with towering masts and capacity for over 240 passengers, the vessel was the centerpiece of nightly pirate-themed dinner cruises and daytime snorkeling tours.
For thousands of visitors each year, the ship was more than just a tour; it was an experience. From staged sword fights to cannon fire, fireworks at sea and costumed pirates swinging from ropes, the Marigalante was a rare blend of historical fantasy and ocean adventure.
Its departure every evening was a ritual observed from the Malecón, beachside hotels and rooftop bars alike. The ship’s silhouette at sunset, its glowing lights at night, its booming cannons and its fireworks created an unmistakable presence. Part entertainment, part mythology.
News of the incident quickly spread across social media, where residents and fans of the ship expressed sadness and disbelief.
One Reddit user posted:
“Famous ship MARIGALANTE sank, reasons unknown… we’re still watching.”
Local media emphasized the safety success. No tourists were on board, and no injuries were reported. Still, the emotional and cultural loss is evident.
The pirate ship was one of Puerto Vallarta’s most profitable and popular attractions. Its sudden disappearance could have a ripple effect across the local economy. Hundreds of people relied directly or indirectly on its operation, from crew and performers to tour agencies, restaurants, vendors and even beach photographers. During peak season, the ship often ran multiple sailings per day, and its absence will leave a notable gap in the region’s experience offerings.
For tourists who booked ahead for holiday cruises, refunds will be offered. Tour operators will likely try to redirect guests to alternative tours, but the unique nature of the Marigalante means there is no true substitute.
As of this writing, the Capitanía de Puerto, along with federal maritime authorities, are leading the investigation into the cause of the flooding and the sequence of events. A full inspection of the vessel’s systems and maintenance history is expected.
Gilberto Mora lit up the FIFA U20 World Cup, leading Mexico to a quarter final appearance. Who is the Mexican wunderkind and why should we be watching him? (Omar Martínez/Cuartoscuro)
Aside from perennial underachiever England, there may not be another soccer nation that is simultaneously as large and promising, yet consistently underwhelming and disappointing as Mexico. With every decade, no matter how tantalizing they appear to be on paper, the nation’s soccer hopes are inevitably spoiled by malediction, misfortune and mismanagement.
At the highest level of international soccer competition, Mexico somehow squanders its golden opportunities and has failed to advance beyond the fifth game in the World Cup.
Mora plies his club trade with Club Tijuana Xoloitzcuintles de Caliente. (Football Talk)
Call it bad luck, sure. But it also points to a lack of team cohesion, effective coaching, and, importantly, a composed and transcendent star who can usher in victory in the most crucial moments. However, it appears the current Mexican generation may have finally found their guy — well, it’s actually a kid.
Right now, Gilberto Mora is the most touted Mexican prospect of the modern era. He has already been dubbed by the media as “El Chamaco” (“the kid”), “Morita” (“little Mora”) and “Crackito” (“the little crack,” which is Spanish slang for anyone who is exceptionally great). There’s a reason for all the hype, too.
The 16-year-old made an impact in this year’s Gold Cup tournament when he became the youngest player in FIFA history to win an international senior trophy. His accomplishment surpassed former record holders — Brazilian icon Pele and Spanish wunderkind Lamine Yamal, who both previously were the youngest champions in FIFA history.
Though Mora is certainly not at the level of those global studs quite yet, all signs have indicated that he has a talent and composure at the youth level that El Tri hasn’t known since Carlos Vela and Giovani Dos Santos, who together delivered Mexico its first World Cup title by defeating Brazil in the Under-17 category in 2005.
Mexican fans have been enjoying Mora domestically for the past year: He currently stars for Club Tijuana in Liga MX, though there is increasing chatter about the teenager drawing serious attention from the likes of Real Madrid and Barcelona. He is consistent in every game he plays, controlling the tempo, setting up his teammates and scoring when needed — no easy feat for a 16-year-old boy going up against grown, fully developed men.
With his recent success, he is no longer Mexico’s best-kept secret either. Making his debut in Chile this fall — at the U-20 World Cup for male stars under 20 years old — he has suddenly burst onto international soccer’s radar.
Mora’s performances have captivated Mexican fans in Chile. (FIFA/X)
In his first two appearances against Brazil and Spain, he assisted and scored twice to keep Mexico afloat in a “Group of Death” that also included Morocco. Mexico would later go on to defeat the group-leading Morocco with — you guessed it — a game-winning goal from Mora himself.
Overall, Mora single-handedly accounted for four of Mexico’s five total goals in the group stage, helping Mexico avoid a single defeat.
His “I’m Him” moment came in the final minutes of Mexico’s clash against Spain. In a must-win situation against the highly ranked Spaniards, the Mexico U-20 team were down 2-1 and all but finished. With less than four minutes of regulation left, Mexico was on the hunt and placed an aerial pass into the box. A Mexican attacker went up and headed the ball awkwardly, but by the grace of the soccer gods, it found the team’s best player: El Crackito.
Mora, who was behind two defenders and his own teammates, one-touched it with his right foot and put it cleanly into the opposite back corner of the net, past the leaping goalkeeper who reacted to the play by falling to the ground on his knees in defeat. In a critical scenario, Mora delivered for his team, and for Mexico.
Like any sports icon in the making, Mora has already faced his fair share of antagonists and disbelievers. Leading up to Mexico’s elimination game against the host nation, Chile, in the Round of 16, Chilean news outlet Desde La Tribunapublished an image of Mora’s face overlaid with blackberries being turned into fruit jam by a Chilean player (the definition of “mora” in Spanish is blackberry). The joking caption read: “It’s time to make blackberry jam.”
The headline and image received significant backlash from many soccer fans in both nations, claiming it was in bad taste (no pun intended). Meanwhile, Chile was crushed in a decisive Mexican triumph in which Mora assisted on two of Mexico’s four goals and was then subbed out to conserve the star for Mexico’s following match.
Up to this point, Mexican fans have rejoiced in Mora’s talents with a euphorically comedic and celebratory spin of their own. In the internet age, goofy memes and Tweets have abounded. There’s a video of a child in his underwear impressively dribbling the ball in his living room with the caption: “Me as a 30-year-old pretending to be Gilberto Mora at 3 a.m.”
There’s a GIF of WWE commissioner Vince McMahon vehemently smelling a wad of cash in his hands, with the text reading: “[Club Tijuana owner and former Tijuana mayor] Jorge Alberto Hank imagining all the money he’s going to make from selling Gilberto Mora.” There is also a series of Tweets begging Mora to not succumb to the temptations of alcohol, women and fame as previous Mexican soccer stars have been known to do: “This is the future of Mexican soccer if Gilberto Mora doesn’t discover alcohol,” one says, accompanied by a montage video of the Portuguese prodigy, Cristiano Ronaldo — a legend known for his extreme discipline and focus on physical health — having fun as an innocent young man.
There are also humorous subcommentaries on the internet about the biases against Mexican soccer players on the international level: One meme shows photos of Mora imagined as a player from various countries: Gilberto Mora in Mexico, but also “Gilbertinho Moura” in Brazil, “Gil Morata” in Spain, and “Gilbert Blackberry” in England. As the nations change, he draws an increasing amount of monetary value. In all, the memes reveal a nation of tormented soccer fans who hope “Morita” doesn’t lose his way and gets fairly compensated for his talents.
At this stage, Mora appears to be a sterling midfielder, but he undoubtedly has much to achieve before cementing himself as a Mexican soccer fixture, let alone an international force. In Mexico’s quarterfinal match against Argentina (the nation with the most U-20 World Cup trophies in the world, having already won six), Mora failed to make any real impact. It was his first game of the tournament without an assist or goal, and he was largely absent from the action.
Some of Mora’s biggest detractors have criticized his height and size — he is listed at 5-foot-6 and 140 pounds but seems even smaller beside his peers. In the 2018 FIFA World Cup, the average height of defenders was 6 feet (at 5-foot-7, Lionel Messi is an exception, but it’s uncommon). Only 16 years old, Mora will certainly grow. But his frame is naturally undersized, and has been used to criticize his top-end potential against the world’s best players.
Just like the senior men’s team, Mexico’s U-20 squad fell victim to the “fifth-game curse” when it lost to Argentina. Though Mora’s presence wasn’t enough to break the hex, he will certainly have more opportunities, as he is slated to play for El Tri in the 2026 World Cup, in what will likely be the first of many for the kid who is shaping up as Mexican fans’ best hope for its first-ever World Cup victory.
Alan Chazaro is the author of “This Is Not a Frank Ocean Cover Album,” “Piñata Theory” and “Notes From the Eastern Span of the Bay Bridge” (Ghost City Press, 2021). He is a graduate of June Jordan’s Poetry for the People program at UC Berkeley and a former Lawrence Ferlinghetti Fellow at the University of San Francisco. His writing can be found in GQ, NPR, The Guardian, L.A. Times and more. Originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, he is currently based in Veracruz.
Dr. Molina in front of the clinic she coordinates in Zihuatanejo. (Clinica El Limón)
Imagine coming to work one day to find your workplace, a medical clinic, empty and completely cleaned out of everything: surgical supplies, hospital beds and medicine. Everything, right down to the toilet paper. This was the sight that greeted Doctor Arena Antonia González Molina one morning at the Clinica El Limón in Colonial El Limón, a poor neighbourhood in Zihuatanejo.
But first, let’s backtrack.
Clinica El Limón is located in the colonia of the same name in the popular resort destination of Zihuatanejo. (Unsplash/Maximilian Csali)
Dr. Molina’s story
Dr. Molina studied medicine at the well-respected Universidad Michoacana de Nicolás, Facultad de Medicina, and graduated in 2015. She did her internship at General Hospital in Zihuatanejo. Eventually, Molina landed a job with the government, which not only paid her bills but also gave her some financial freedom. It was during this time that she met Dr. Roderick Hernandez, who had opened Clinica El Limón along with several others. Molina decided to donate some of her time and expertise to helping those in need, while also using the clinic to treat her own patients. Dr. Serralde, with whom Molina had previously worked, had come to Zihuatanejo as a tourist years ago and fallen in love with the area. Serralde now practises at the clinic once a month and is a world-renowned phlebologist, lymphologist, venous ultrasonographer and podiatric surgeon.
At first, Molina worked at Clinica El Limón on a part-time basis, but it soon became apparent that the clinic was struggling financially, seeing only about 20 clients a month. Still, the sight that greeted Molina that fateful morning, less than a year later, shocked her to the core.
Some staff members fled, while others resigned to pursue more lucrative employment opportunities. Yet, the community’s resilience shone through as they rallied around the clinic, determined to keep it afloat.
A commitment to care
Unwilling to “pack it in,” Molina, with the blessing of founder Dr. Roderick Hernandez and Dr. Serralde, decided to quit her government job and devote her full attention to keeping the clinic operating as the clinic coordinator. Luckily, Dr. Serralde, upon learning of what might have been a robbery, came to the rescue, bringing, among other things, monitors, beds, medicine and other essential supplies. He paid the nurses and cleaning staff, but Molina herself does not take a salary.
With limited experience running a business, Molina reached out to a couple of Canadian friends: Larry Wright, a philanthropist in the area, well known for his work raising funds and awareness for a school located at the garbage dump, and Ray Lenovitch, for advice. The pair suggested a GoFundMe page, and they raised 150,000 pesos, while Lenovitch held a private fundraiser in his home. It was enough to pay off most of the bills and debts and keep the lights on, but barely.
Surmounting challenges big and small
However, money wasn’t the only problem the fledgling organization faced. Many years of neglect and mismanagement had resulted in a major strike against them with the Federal Commission for Protection Against Sanitary Risk (Cofepris). This organization governs all the hospitals and clinics in Mexico. Threatened with closure, Molina and Semalde faced the task of making the necessary changes to bring the clinic up to code. Among the grievances was the clinic’s lack of an agreement with a biological waste collector. There were also many maintenance issues, including cleanliness problems, such as mould on the floors of the surgical floor, and numerous other problems crucial to their future.
No matter the challenges, Dr. Molina is always eager to find solutions. (Clinica El Limón)
Dr. Molina rolled up her sleeves and got to work, along with five nurses, a cleaning lady and a kind neighbour. They scrubbed the clinic from top to bottom, eliminating mold in the surgical department by removing the tiles. Then the team painted and repaired until everything was spotless and functional once more, essentially restructuring the entire clinic from top to bottom.
How the clinic survives
The result was that, except for a couple of minor issues still to be addressed, the clinic is legally up to code and in accordance with medical standards. They ran the clinic for another month, but as patient numbers dwindled, Molina faced the difficult decision to reduce the staff to just herself and one student nurse. Despite the financial restraints, Molina is determined to keep the clinic open to help those in need.
“We have many locals who can’t afford medical care. Even though our fee is on par with everyone else at 500 pesos, some can’t even pay that. Some clients have zero money and could only pay with produce, or a few coins —whatever they could afford. We had one client pay with candy. We will treat them anyway.”
However, Molina now has hope for the future, as the “high season” is soon upon them, and people will be returning to Mexico to escape the cold winters. This influx of patients brings a renewed sense of hope and purpose to the clinic.
“We have many English-speaking clients, mostly expats who appreciate that I speak English,” she said. “And lots of word-of-mouth.”
Patients are impressed
Indeed, patients are effusive in their praise. Richard Black, for example, an expatriate from the United States, had this to say of his experience with Dr. Molina. “Dr Molina is the best! She is very professional, knowledgeable, courteous, efficient, friendly, and her bilingual language skills are much appreciated,” said Black. “Always taking time to explain things about my health issues in a way that I can comprehend! She is helpful far beyond my previous experience with doctors! She is wise beyond her years, and I am lucky and happy to know her.”
Clinica El Limón has built a reputation for quality care amongst both expats and zihuatanejenses alike. (Clinica El Limón)
Dolores Crowton from Detroit, Michigan, was also laudatory. “Yes, she (Molina) is so wonderful. Being alone in Mexico and elderly … She was like a beacon of light! Never had a doctor so caring.”
Sylvia Otero from Zihuatanejo added, “Dr. Molina has given us excellent medical care. My mother has suffered for many years with varicose ulcers, but Dr. Molina was able to heal her in a very short time. In my case, Dr Molina detected a brain tumor, and thanks to her, I was operated on and now I am completely well. Dr. Molina is a human being who is always willing to help her patients. We are older people, so when necessary, she comes to our home.”
A plan for the future
Dr. Molina told me her commitment to quality care is unwavering. “I assure patients that the clinic’s focus is on providing accurate diagnoses, avoiding unnecessary consultations and prescribing effective medications. The clinic’s independence from any specific pharmacy ensures that its recommended health plans can be trusted.” She added, “We prioritize solving the root of the problem, not just prescribing medication, and we bring in specialists as needed, ensuring comprehensive and effective care.”
As to what the future holds, Molina said, “To become self-sufficient as we treat the people of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo. For me, the clinic is a labour of love. We are gaining an excellent reputation for quality care and want to continue doing that.”
“I can get a job anywhere,” she says. “I have bills to pay, too and right now I could make more money selling tacos on the street. And there is equipment we still need. But I am committed to this clinic.”
When asked how she plans on ensuring the financial sustainability of the clinic in the long term, she said, “We are making some agreements with insurance companies so that they send us more patients to the clinic. And we plan to do more publicity to get the word out that we are open for business.”
Want to support quality healthcare in Zihuatanejo? Clinica Limón’sGoFundMe campaign remains open for those who’d like to contribute.
The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.
The name Manuel Raga Navarro is legendary in two countries: Mexico and Italy. Who was the first non-U.S. player to be drafted by the NBA? (eBay)
Few people, unless they are serious basketball fans, will remember Manuel “Manolo” Raga Navarro. However, he is still considered the most successful Mexican basketball player of all time and is noted as being the first Mexican to be drafted for the NBA. This part of the story, if not a myth, is often misunderstood, but we will address that later.
Born in Villa Aldama, Tamaulipas, in 1944, Manolo started playing in local basketball leagues. Although basketball in Mexico has never acquired the popularity of soccer, it has always had a cult following of players and local fans. Its roots often lie in the poorer regions of the county, in part because the enthusiasm for the sport has been driven by migrant workers returning from the United States with a passion for basketball. Basketball had several advantages over soccer. In mountainous or heavily farmed regions, or in crowded working areas of a city, it required far less space than a football pitch. And, thanks to Mexico’s climate, any small outdoor court that can be constructed is generally usable throughout the year.
How Raga rose to fame
Manuel Raga wears his signature uniform number, 15, while playing for the Italian basketball team Ignis Varese. (Facebook)
Back in the 1960s, most teams were linked to military, government or educational establishments, and Raga played for the Instituto Tecnológico of Ciudad Madero. Although he was “only” 1.88 meters tall (about 6’2”), that was above average height for a Mexican boy of this generation, and he also had an incredible ability to jump. The recognized measurement of this is the Sargent Jump, leaping upwards from a standing position to see how far you can reach up with your hand. A vertical jump of 70 centimeters (27 inches) is considered above average. Modern basketball players sometimes score over 89 centimeters (35 inches). Manolo is said to have been able to leap an impressive 109 centimeters (42 inches).
Even with this natural ability, Manolo would never have attracted much attention playing in the amateur and regional leagues of the time. What brought him into a brighter spotlight was that the Mexican team was the strongest in the Central American region, regularly qualifying for international events. He was 19 when he made his debut at the 1963 World Championships in Brazil, where he scored 24 points against Canada and 20 against Uruguay. The following year, he made the first of three Olympic appearances. International exposure helped improve his game, and by the time the Olympics came to Mexico in 1968, he was, along with Arturo Guerrero, the star of the Mexican team. His play was noted for covering the whole court, leaping to take rebounds, and having an excellent jump shot.
The Flying Mexican in Italy
Raga needed a challenge beyond Mexico and it was an Italian club that gave him the opportunity. Basketball, at the time, was not widely popular in Europe, but had a reasonable following in Spain and Italy. While not approaching the popularity of soccer, basketball in these countries received a fair amount of news coverage, and with that came sponsorship. The biggest clubs used this money to supplement their squads by signing good American players. Another advantage was that many of the big basketball teams were associated with a major sports club, and these often had world-class facilities.
Varese, where Raga came to play, was different. It was a small town of some 70,000 people in the lakes and foothills of Northern Italy. The community was enthusiastic sports fans, being close to the ski slopes and a center of Italian cycling. The community was too small to support a first-rate soccer team, but building a world-class basketball team seemed an attainable goal. The great Italian team at the time was Simmental Milano, and Varese were already their closest rivals. However, this was a one-sided rivalry; between 1957 and 1967, Milano won 9 titles, Varese 2.
Changing the fortunes of Ignis Varese
Several events in the late 1960s would change this balance. Ignis, a local firm that made kitchen equipment, provided sponsorship. Former player Giancarlo Gualco became the sporting director, bringing a love for the club and a dream of greater success. Dino Meneghin, a two-meter giant, was emerging as the most promising Italian player of his generation. Money was made available to attract foreign stars, and rather than pick some young American just out of college, Gualco took a gamble. He brought in the unknown Manuel Raga Navarro. Italian sports fans in the 1960s were not noted for their cultural sensitivity, and Raga was given the nickname “Indian.” His likeable personality and exciting style of play quickly won the support of the fans, and he became known as “The Flying Mexican” or “The Phenomenon.”
Driven by the Meneghin partnership, Ignis Varese won the Italian League in 1969. “The Flying Mexican” scored 418 points and, more remarkably for a relatively short player, grabbed 98 rebounds. The league title gave Ignis entry to the European Cup. This was the height of the Cold War, and there was a strong East versus West rivalry in the competition. Eastern European teams had the advantage of a system where players had token jobs and could train full-time.
Contesting the European Cup
Raga was an athletic specimen, known for his impressive 42-inch vertical leap. (Public Domain)
This coincided with a generation of particularly talented Russian players, men who would controversially take the Olympic title from the USA in 1972. Many of these players wore the colours of CSKA Moscow, the team Varese met in the 1970 final. Staged in a brand new stadium in Sarajevo, Ignis won 79-74 with Raga contributing 19 points. It was here that he met Esma Smais, a player at the local Zeljeznicar club, and a rapid romance and marriage followed.
It was European basketball that brought attention from the NBA team Atlanta, who expressed an interest in signing both Meneghin and Raga. The Italian team wouldn’t consider letting Meneghin go, and Atlanta was not willing to pay the US $35,000 fee that Varese was asking for Raga. However, Meneghin and Raga went into the record books as the first foreign players to be included in an NBA draft.
League titles and international play
The following year, Varese retained their Italian title but lost to CSKA in the European final. 1971-1972, Raga’s third season in Italy, saw Milano win the league, but he notched 20 points as Varese beat Jugoplastika Split for their second European title. There was the feeling that Varese was one player short of a team that could dominate both Italian and European basketball, so they brought in Bob Morse.
Morse was a big man, two meters (6’6”) tall, and he had been a prolific scorer during his college career. He was good enough to play in the NBA, but felt he would always be the sixth man, coming off the bench for a few minutes each game and probably being blamed whenever things went wrong. He was an intelligent and cultured man who saw the possibility of a better life in Italy. A place where the family could sit down and have dinner together without the television playing. He would stay in Varese for nearly a decade, and when he returned to the States, he taught Italian in a local College.
An interlude in Switzerland
The Italian League only allowed one foreign player, and Raga had to be sacrificed. He stayed with the club and played alongside Morse in Europe, where the rules were more relaxed. The 1973 final saw them face CSKA for the third time, and with Morse and Raga combining for 45 points, Varese won 71-66. In 1973-74, they returned to the final for a classic game, which they narrowly lost to Real Madrid. That summer, Raga played for Mexico in the World Championships in Puerto Rico. Helped by the fact that Mexico played in the lower classification section during the second half of the competition, he and teammate Arturo Guerrero were the tournament’s two highest scorers. With Morse established as Varese’s top foreign player, Raga moved on to Switzerland, where he won three championships with Federale Lugano. His international career ended with a third Olympic Games in Montreal in 1976.
A legacy in basketball
In 1991, Raga was an assistant coach on the Mexico national team that won the silver medal at the Pan-American Games in Havana, but he never took to coaching. He now lives quietly in Tamaulipas with his second wife, former Cuban volleyball player Lucia Urgelles. His career is better appreciated in Europe than it is in Mexico. In 2010, he was made an Honorary Citizen of Varese, while FIBA nominated him as one of the “50 Greatest EuroLeague Contributors.” And yes, he is still in the record books as the first foreigner to be included in an NBA draft.
Manuel Raga - FIBA Hall of Famer 2016 Class
Bob Patemanis a Mexico-based historian, librarian and a life-term hasher. He is editor of On On Magazine, the international history magazine of hashing.
The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve is a UNESCO site and one of Mexico's best preserved natural wonders. It's also really easy to get to. (Explore Le Monde)
Welcome back to the series where we unravel the world-class secrets hidden within Mexico. Each article is our challenge to ourselves to find the wilder and lesser-known experiences here in this global icon, our adopted home of Mexico.
If you’ve ever been drawn to the crystal-clear, turquoise waters of Florida’s natural springs, then get ready to be captivated by Sian Ka’an.
At Sian Ka’an, you’ll find glassy spearmint freshwater at a refreshing temperature in a natural, lush green setting. (Outdoorsy Diva)
Just a short drive from the hedonistic beaches of Tulum lies a secret world that feels a million miles away. Sian Ka’an, a massive and highly protected nature reserve, is where the jungle meets pristine wetlands and the Caribbean Sea. It’s a place still ruled by nature, where the water is impossibly clear and the silence is only broken by the call of exotic birds.
Few visitors venture beyond Tulum’s beach road to find it, and that’s precisely why I love it. It’s a powerful reminder of the raw, untouched beauty that still exists in Mexico if you just know where to look.
Florida springs vs. Sian Ka’an
Florida’s 700 natural fountains rank among the world’s greatest wonders. To snorkel in Florida’s springs is like taking a weightless flight through an underwater garden shaped by water clear as glass, gnome-like rock formations and aquatic plants. If you’re lucky, you can even spot manatees, otters, loggerhead musk turtles and even alligators that call these springs home.
On land, Florida and Tulum couldn’t seem more different. But dive under the water surface, and you’ll find that Sian Ka’an and Florida’s springs are almost identical, thanks to a remarkable connection hidden deep underground. Both get their stunningly clear, fresh water from massive underground aquifer systems flowing through limestone.
This geological connection is why the Yucatán Peninsula is famous for its cenotes — natural sinkholes that are essentially tunnels into the same kind of subterranean rivers that feed Florida’s springs. The result is the same kind of magic: glassy spearmint freshwater at a refreshing temperature in a natural, lush green setting.
Where the sky is born
Visits to Si’an Ka’an, which has an incredible array of wildlife, are only possible on guided tours. (Manuel Quesada/Unesco)
Now, let me introduce you properly to Sian Ka’an. In the Mayan language, its name means “origin of the sky” or “where the sky is born.” The moment you see the vast, open wetlands reflecting the clouds, you’ll understand why.
Established as a protected biosphere reserve in 1986 and named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, it covers a staggering 1.3 million acres of tropical forests, mangroves, marshes and a section of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef.
This place is a biodiversity hotspot, providing a sanctuary for an incredible array of wildlife. We’re talking jaguars, pumas, tapirs and hundreds of bird species. In the water, you can find manatees, crocodiles, four species of sea turtles and countless fish. It’s a complex, thriving ecosystem where everything is interconnected, from the freshwater channels to the saltwater bays.
The biggest difference between Sian Ka’an and Florida’s springs? Scale and wildness. While Florida’s springs are often beautifully maintained state parks, Sian Ka’an is sprawling and untamed, giving you that same freshwater thrill with an added dose of raw adventure.
Highlights of Sian Ka’an
Because Sian Ka’an is so strictly protected, it’s one of the best-preserved patches of wilderness in Mexico. Visits are only possible on guided tours, which helps to limit the environmental impact we have. There are two main entry points, one through the lagoon side and the other from the ocean, each offering completely different experiences.
For anyone who loves the Florida springs experience, the Muyil entrance to the lagoons of Sian Ka’an is your golden ticket. Located just a 20-minute drive from Tulum, this is the freshwater part of the reserve. Your adventure starts with a walk through the jungle to Muyil ruins, a small, undervisited Mayan archaeological site.
Muyil’s Temple 8, known as the Pink Palace, is considered to have been the city’s center of civic and religious life. (File Photo)
From there, take the boardwalk to get to the lagoons, where local Mayan guides will be ready for you — a boat trip costs around US $50 per person, and all of the fee goes to the Mayan community of Sian Ka’an. You’ll weave through a series of ancient canals hand-dug by the Mayans over a thousand years ago for trade.
And here comes the best part: floating through the ancient Mayan channels. The gentle current will carry you effortlessly through the mangroves for about half an hour. It is pure bliss — peaceful, otherworldly and the closest you’ll get to the lazy river floats of Florida, but with a history behind it.
Flanked by tall reeds and ancient Mayan ruins, these canals feature clear-as-glass water with a perfect sandy floor and tiny fish scuttering about.
Choose your adventure
If your heart is set on experiencing the wild, oceanic side of Sian Ka’an, getting to the remote village of Punta Allen is an adventure in itself. Be warned: the journey is the main obstacle. The 56-kilometer (35-mile) stretch of unpaved road from Tulum is notoriously rough; it requires a grueling, four-hour crawl over countless potholes that can become a muddy mess after the rain.
Trust me when I say a 4×4 vehicle is essential: We drove our Volkswagen Beetle and wrecked the suspension — but we survived!
This challenging journey is your ticket to a truly castaway paradise, where you can spend a few days spotting wild dolphins and manatees, snorkeling on the Mesoamerican reef, experiencing rustic village life and leaving Wi-Fi and phone signals behind.
Thankfully, there are easier options for getting there: Book a guided day tour that includes transfers from your hotel in Tulum and a boat trip from the Sian Ka’an Visitor Center for a full day of adventure; you’ll skip the treacherous drive and have a marine safari with a knowledgeable guide. These all-inclusive trips, typically costing around US $200, handle all the logistics.
A wild heart awaits
Ultimately, the magic of Sian Ka’an lies in its raw, untamed spirit. It offers the same soul-soothing experience that makes Florida’s springs so beloved, but in a wilder, natural setting.
If you’re looking for a place where the water is pure, the history is palpable, and the adventure feels boundless, it’s time for an adventure in Sian Ka’an.
Nellie Huang is a self-proclaimed Mexico-holic obsessed who lived in the Riviera Maya for a few years. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.
