The Veracruz Reef System (Sistema Arrecifal Veracruzano) is the largest coral reef system in the Gulf of Mexico. (Victoria Razo/Cuartoscuro)
Dozens of people gathered Sunday at the boardwalk in Veracruz to protest against the expansion of the local port and raise awareness about the protection of the Gulf of Mexico’s coral reefs.
The group of protesters, which included activists, environmentalists, jaraneros musicians, son jarocho dancers and local residents, objects to the construction of a breakwater of more than 3,000 meters on the La Gallega reef, which is part of the Veracruz Reef System.
Ahead of the protest, Ana León Malpica, student, activist and creator of the blog Hablemos de Biología (Let’s Talk about Biology), told local media that one of the objectives of the protest is to demand a comprehensive environmental impact study as ordered by Mexico’s Supreme Court of Justice (SCJN) in 2022.
“The scientific community is truly outraged because they’re going to build on the La Gallega reef, which was excluded from the [boundaries] of the protected area by private interests, precisely to do this [breakwater]. They removed these reefs with the excuse that there was no longer any salvation for them,” León said. She added that the protest also seeks to increase visibility of Veracruz’s reefs, as many people aren’t aware that there are reefs in the area.
The SCJN’s ruling in 2022 recognized that the environmental impact statements for the project were fragmented, lacking a “comprehensive” view of the cumulative consequences for reefs and wetlands of this type of construction project. It thus ordered the cancellation of the original environmental permits and ruled that the authority responsible for the work had to carry out a new unified environmental impact study.
Although a new environmental impact study was submitted to the authorities in December 2022, lawyers interviewed by Mongabay in May assert that it does not address the SCJN’s observations.
According to scientists, port expansion activities have altered sedimentation and breeding patterns in the affected reef area. (Victoria Razo/Cuartoscuro)
According to the Court, “in order for the environmental assessment to be truly comprehensive, all cumulative, synergic or residual impacts must be considered,” Jorge Lu Palencia told Mongabay. Lu Palencia asserts this was not done and that the 45 reefs originally excluded from the assessment area have not been reintegrated or evaluated in the new impact study.
The Veracruz Reef System (Sistema Arrecifal Veracruzano) is the largest coral reef system in the Gulf of Mexico. According to scientists, port expansion activities have altered sedimentation and breeding patterns at the partially destroyed Punta Brava and Punta Gorda reefs. There are also elevated organic matter levels in the La Blanquilla reef linked to construction sediment disturbance and wastewater discharge in the area.
Construction on the project, which will extend through December 2028, will cost over 20 billion pesos (US $1 billion) and includes complementary infrastructure in electricity, port security and customs.
The price of a four-year temporary residency visa will increase from 11,984 pesos (US $650) to 23,968 pesos ($1,300). (Unsplash)
Mexico’s 2026 national budget will include a 100% increase in the fees charged for temporary and permanent residency visas, as the government looks to counteract the impact of digital nomadism in the country.
The cost of immigration permits for migrants — regardless of vocation — will double next year, according to the 2026 federal budget, which was submitted to Congress on Sept. 8. If the budget is approved, the federal fiscal law will be amended to reflect this price increase.
“The proposed increase seeks to guarantee a fair and proportional contribution, based on the intensive use of infrastructure and specialized human resources,” the proposal states.
The proposal will see a 100% increase in the cost of one-year temporary permits from 5,328 pesos (US $290) in 2025 to 10,656 pesos ($580) in 2026.
Two-, three- and four-year temporary permits will increase from 7,984 pesos ($435), 10,112 pesos ($550) and 11,984 pesos ($650) to 15,968 pesos ($870); 20,224 pesos ($1,100); and 23,968 pesos ($1,300), respectively.
Meanwhile, the price of permanent residency permits will increase from 6,494 pesos ($355) in 2025 to 12,988 pesos ($705) in 2026.
“In Mexico, the arrival of a foreign population has brought on changes and affected sectors such as housing, gastronomy, local commerce and recreational and collaborative spaces,” Mexico’s Finance and Public Credit Ministry (SHCP) stated in its initiative briefing. “While boosting consumption and productive activity, [this] requires the design of equitable, safe, orderly and correct migration public policies.”
The Mexican Treasury “dedicated a very long discussion to the operational aspect of these types of [economic] contributions,” Finance Minister Édgar Amador said at a press conference at the National Palace on Sept. 8, in reference to the price increase.
“There is a very detailed discussion there with the National Migration Institute (INM), for example, on the issue of digital nomads,” said Amador.
According to the proposal, a 50% discount may be considered for residency applicants under certain conditions, in accordance with Migration Law Regulations.
The Public Ministry of Paraguay said that it received an extradition request from Mexico for Bermúdez. (SSPC/Cuartoscuro)
Hernán Bermúdez Requena, a former security minister in the state of Tabasco who is accused of heading up a crime organization, was arrested in Paraguay on Friday, Mexican and Paraguayan authorities said.
The Public Ministry of Paraguay said in a statement that it was involved in an “international cooperation procedure” that resulted in the arrest of Bermúdez, alleged leader of La Barredora, a crime group linked to the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG).
It noted that the arrest — which was filmed — occurred for “extradition purposes.”
The suspect, security minister during the governorships of Adán Augusto López Hernández (2019-2021) and Carlos Manuel Merino Campos (2021-2024) in the Gulf coast state of Tabasco, fled Mexico from Mérida, Yucatán, in early 2025. He was detained at a home in an exclusive area of Asunción, the capital of Paraguay.
Federal security authorities in Mexico said in a joint statement that they were involved in the arrest of Bermúdez, also known as “El Abuelo” (The Grandfather) and “Comandante H” (Commander H).
They said that the 72-year-old former state security minister was wanted on charges of criminal association, extortion and express kidnapping.
In a social media post, President Claudia Sheinbaum thanked the president of Paraguay, Santiago Peña, for his “collaboration” in the arrest of Bermúdez, who held other security positions in Tabasco before becoming security minister in 2019.
“Our strategy of attention to the causes [of crime] and zero impunity reduces violence in our country,” she added.
López Hernández, the governor who appointed him as security minister, has faced questions over what he knew about the alleged criminal activities of his police chief.
He relinquished the governorship of Tabasco to become interior minister in the federal government led by former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador.
After the arrest of Bermúdez, López Hernández — now the ruling Morena party’s top senator — reiterated his willingness to speak to authorities about the case against his former security minister. Opposition politicians have claimed that it is not possible that he was unaware that his security minister in Tabasco headed up a criminal organization.
López faces allegations that, in his capacity as notary public, he helped Bermúdez and his brother set up shell companies utilized to carry out illegal activities as well as earn millions in state-issued contracts.
The regular extradition process in Paraguay takes 60 days, meaning that the former security minister is expected to return to Mexico in November.
Bermúdez is currently in the custody of Paraguay’s National Anti-Drugs Secretariat (SENAD).
The Public Ministry of Paraguay said that it received an extradition request from Mexico in accordance with an extradition treaty between the two countries.
During the Friday night raid at the house where Bermúdez was hiding, authorities seized “assets that could constitute important evidence for the open [criminal] process” in Mexico, the Public Ministry said.
Paraguayan President Peña said on social media that his government dealt a “forceful blow” to “transnational organized crime” by arresting Bermúdez.
Former security minister Hernán Bermúdez (middle) was reportedly involved in migrant trafficking, drug trafficking, fuel theft and extortion. (X)
He described “El Abuelo” as “one of Mexico’s most wanted capos,” or crime bosses, and an ally of the CJNG.
Peña said that Paraguayan authorities had collaborated closely with Mexico’s National Intelligence Center on the operation to arrest Bermúdez.
“I recognize and value the commitment of the president of Mexico, @Claudiashein, whose cooperation was key to achieving this great accomplishment,” he added.
“Paraguay won’t be a refuge for criminals and will remain resolute in the fight against organized crime,” Peña said.
La Barredora
La Barredora is a Tabasco-based criminal organization said to be affiliated with the CJNG, one of six Mexican cartels designated as foreign terrorist organizations by the United States government.
The crime group is allegedly involved in a range of illicit activities, including migrant trafficking, drug trafficking, fuel theft and extortion.
The newspaper Excélsior reported last month that “the structure” of La Barredora “is characterized by operating from the inside of public institutions, especially in security areas, which allowed it to expand without facing an effective response from the state.”
Martial joined Monterrey from Athens’ AEK, where he had spent a single season after leaving Manchester United after nine seasons at the iconic club. (Rayados)
French international and former Manchester United midfielder Anthony Martial sent a message to fans of Monterrey Rayados this weekend, after becoming the latest high profile player to join Mexico’s Liga MX.
In a brief video address confirming his signing, Martial, 29, greeted fans in French. “Hello Rayados family, I’m Anthony Martial. I’m very happy to join Monterrey. Let’s go Rayados!” he told the club’s social media channel.
The Frenchman made his name in northern England, where he played 317 matches, scoring 90 goals, and winning the Europa League, two FA Cup titles, a League Cup and the FA Community Shield.
Martial is the third major European player to join the league this year, after teammate Ramos and Welsh international Aaron Ramsey, who joined UNAM Pumas last month. The league has seen an influx of high profile talent, including Allan Saint-Maximin at América and Brazilian João Pedro at Atlético San Luis.
In an official announcement, Monterrey outlined his extensive career achievements, before finishing, “His talent, speed and ability to finish in key moments will be an asset to the team’s quest to achieve its goals. Welcome to Monterrey, Anthony!”
How did Mexico win Independence from Spain? When? Why? Leigh Thelmadatter has the answers to all these and more, as we dive into the Mexico News Daily archive for a history lesson. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)
This article was originally published in 2021.
So Mexican Independence Day is coming up, and if you’re not Mexican, you probably wonder: why do the festivities start the night before?
Grito de Independencia 209 Aniversario. Presidente AMLO
Well, Mexicans’ love of partying may be part of the reason but not the main one. It has to do with how independence from Spain was achieved.
Mexico’s struggle came at a time when much of the New World was itching to throw off European rule and Spain was weak because, both from Napoleonic invasion and internal instability. The War of Independence wasn’t one campaign led by the same set of actors from beginning to end. It was a series of insurrections for over a decade in danger of collapsing on more than one occasion.
The first of these insurrections was led by Miguel Hidalgo, the name most strongly associated with the Independence story. He has a street named after him in the center of just about every town or city.
Hidalgo is considered to be the father of his country, but he was also a “father” in the sense that he was a priest — and despite this, because he sired five children that he acknowledged. It is because of him that Independence Day celebrations begin late on September 15 even though the official holiday is the 16th.
At 11 p.m. on September 15, 1810, Hidalgo climbed the bell tower of the church in Dolores (now Dolores Hidalgo), Guanajuato, to call the parishioners and exhort them to overthrow the colonial government. He had been planning a rebellion with others in Querétaro, but the plot had been discovered, so his choices were to start immediately or get arrested.
Little did he know how quickly the small crowd that night would swell as it marched toward Mexico City.
Portrait of Miguel Hidalgo that hangs in the Independence Museum in Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato. (File photo)
With mayhem along the way, the mob/army made its way to the outskirts of the Valley of México. There, they defeated the royal army at Monte de las Cruces, but in a decision that still causes debate, Hidalgo decided not to descend into the capital but rather retreat to Guadalajara.
Eventually, this decision cost Hidalgo his head, literally, as it was hung from the Alhondiga building in Guanajuato after his execution in Durango.
Hidalgo’s insurgency lasted less than 10 months, but it is the best remembered. After his death, the fighting waned in central Mexico but resurfaced elsewhere, especially in Morelos, Guerrero and Oaxaca. Several important leaders emerged, including Mariano Matamoros, Vicente Guerrero, Guadalupe Victoria and Ignacio López Rayón.
The movement, however, coalesced around José María Morelos. His importance is such that he appears alongside Miguel Hidalgo on the 200 peso bill. He understood military tactics better than Hidalgo and brought guerrilla strategies into the struggle.
Morelos and the other rebels mentioned above also had political skills. They formulated documents called “plans” to articulate their goals and rationales. This concept would be central in the chaotic century that followed Mexico’s separation from Spain.
I should mention that many current history books list Morelos as a mestizo — someone whose ancestry was a mix of Spanish and indigenous. However, at the time of his birth, he was classified as “Spanish” (likely criollo, i.e., a child who had been born in the New World whose parents had been born in Spain), even though he did have some indigenous ancestors on one side of his family.
Mexico City residents gather for the traditional Independence Day “grito.” (Cuartoscuro)
This may reflect the attitudes of both time periods since he was a descendant of the conquistador Hernán Cortés, but today’s politics favor historical figures of indigenous or mixed heritage in a number of ways.
Morelos’s primacy lasted from 1811 to 1815. His success in the south of the country forced the Spanish viceroy to reorganize his army. But Morelos was captured, interrogated, tried and executed by firing squad. With his death, the insurgents abandoned any form of conventional warfare.
The next major phase came under the leadership of Vicente Guerrero, a mestizo with African heritage. With the death of Morelos, the viceroy thought the rebellion was all but over and even offered amnesty to insurgents. Many accepted, only to take up arms again when the opportunity arose.
This phase of the war, from 1816 to 1820, was a kind of stalemate between insurgents and royal forces. Insurgents attacked roads and convoys but launched few major attacks.
But Spain itself was embroiled in internal struggles after Napoleon was ousted in 1813. Support for royal troops in Mexico was lacking. A number of royal officers, Agustin de Iturbide among them, saw the writing on the wall, especially when a December 1820 offensive failed to decisively destroy the insurgents.
However, the insurgents were not in a great position either. Despite the fact that mestizo rebels had done most of the heavy lifting for a decade, it seemed rather likely that the criollo class would take over an independent Mexico (and indeed, that is what happened). Guerrero decided that his best bet was to join forces with Agustín de Iturbide’s faction and force the viceroy to accept an independent Mexico.
Agustín de Iturbide entered Mexico City in 1821. His name is relatively unknown, although he was Mexico’s first head of state. (File photo)
This viceroy, Juan O’Donojú, was indeed the last to rule New Spain in the king’s name. He signed the Treaty of Córdoba acknowledging Mexico’s independence on September 27, 1821, 11 years after Hidalgo rang the church bell in Guanajuato.
Spain did not immediately recognize this treaty, and it would take several more years before Mexican troops would expel the last of the Spanish army from the port of Veracruz, the same place where Cortés had invaded Mexico 300 years before.
Mexico’s Independence Day begins the night before with a reenactment of Hidalgo’s Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores). This reenactment is done at exactly 11 p.m., one of the few things that must be done on time here. When I attended my first Grito reenactment at Mexico City’s zócalo in 2005, President Fox arrived late, and the crowd responded by calling him an obscene term.
Everywhere across the country, after the leader of the country and those of the states and municipalities repeat Hidalgo’s words (more or less) and ring the bell, fireworks — and, yes, lots of drinking — commence until the early morning hours.
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 22 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture, in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta.
Every September 16th, Mexico comes together to take part in the grito, a commemoration of Mexico's independence heroes. How did this tradition come about?(Mireya Novo/Cuartoscuro)
This Monday night, people across Mexico will reenact the Grito de Dolores, the call to rebellion that the priest Miguel Hidalgo made on Sept. 16, 1810, starting the Mexican War of Independence. So why do we celebrate a day earlier? For that matter, what’s with the bell that the president rings? Read on for the history of Mexico’s Independence Day celebrations: On Monday night, whether you’re shouting “Viva!” in reply to your city’s mayor or the nation’s president in the Zócalo of Mexico City, don’t be left wondering why.
1812: The first commemoration
This balcony in Hidalgo is believed to be the spot where the first grito took place in 1812. (Criterio Hidalgo)
By 1812, the initial victories of the insurgents were over, and they had suffered major setbacks. Miguel Hidalgo and several other independence leaders had been captured and executed in Coahuila a year earlier. With independence forces scattered, new leaders emerged, including José María Morelos and the lawyer Ignacio López Rayón. Together, they established the Council of Zitácuaro, the first attempt at an insurgent government.
Royalist forces captured Zitácuaro in early 1812, and López Rayón was forced to stay on the move. On Sept. 13, he arrived in Huichapan, in what is now Hidalgo state. On the 16, a midnight mass was held to commemorate the two-year anniversary of the beginning of the independence struggle. Afterwards, López Rayón and his subordinate Andrés Quintana Roo appeared on the balcony of a house in Huichapan’s main square and gave the first ever commemoration of the call to arms Hidalgo had made in Dolores two years earlier, celebrating with cannon fire, ringing bells and choir music. Huichapan is now a Pueblo Mágico, and you can visit El Chapitel, the house where López Rayón celebrated this first Grito, for yourself.
1813: Morelos makes it official
With the Zitácuaro Council uprooted, the more militarily capable Morelos took charge of the insurgency. In 1813, he assembled the Congress of Chilpancingo in present-day Guerrero to bring the pro-independence factions together. It was this body that first declared independence from Spain, something Hidalgo had never done, and adopted “Sentimientos de la Nación,” a document authored by Morelos which became the precursor to the Mexican Constitution.
The very last article of “Sentimientos de la Nación” established September 16 as a national holiday, “the anniversary of the day in which the voice of Independence was raised and our holy Freedom began.” How much celebrating the insurgents actually did during the rest of the Independence War is unclear: In 1815, Morelos was captured and shot by colonial troops, and the movement was again dispersed, leading to the stalemate between insurgents and royalists that would make the war drag on for six more years.
1825: The first celebration as a republic
President Guadalupe Victoria is believed to have given independent Mexico’s first grito. (Fity)
In 1825, former insurgent leader Guadalupe Victoria became the first sitting president to celebrate Independence Day, giving the first Grito in Mexico City’s Zócalo. The celebrations were toned down that year due to a measles epidemic that was ravaging the country. There was still a parade, however, as well as fireworks, music and a ceremony on the Alameda Central that saw the liberation of enslaved people and war orphans presented to their new guardians.
Wait — 1825? The observant reader will note that Mexico had already been independent for four years by that date. What explains the missing years? Mexico moved through several forms of government in its first years as an independent country. From 1822 to 1823, it was the Mexican Empire under Emperor Agustín, whose Independence Day celebrations focused more on September 27, the day his army marched into Mexico City. In October 1824, Mexico’s first democratic elections chose Guadalupe Victoria as president. Victoria, a liberal, had joined the republican revolt against the Empire, and he reinstated Morelos’ old celebration of September 16 as Independence Day. For much of the rest of the century, the day a Mexican celebrated independence was determined by their politics: liberals celebrated on the 16, while conservatives celebrated on the 27.
1896: The Bell of Dolores makes it to Mexico City
Every president puts their own touch on the traditional phrasing of the Grito, but since 1896, there has been at least one element in common in the capital’s ceremony: the bell that Hidalgo rang when he gave the Cry of Dolores. Cast in 1768, the bell was originally known as the Esquilón San José and hung in the Church of Nuestra Señora de Dolores, where Hidalgo called the faithful to revolt. In 1896, President Porfirio Díaz, de facto dictator of Mexico, ordered it brought to the capital. That year’s independence celebrations kicked off with a parade escorting the bell to the National Palace, where it was installed in a niche above the central balcony and still hangs today.
A commonly-told story says that Díaz moved Independence Day celebrations to the 15 to coincide with his own birthday, but this is most likely untrue. Father Hidalgo is said to have made the Grito de Dolores during a 6 a.m. mass on September 16, and that was the time that most commemorations aimed for in the following years. In an age before electric lighting, it was hard to stay awake through the night for the Grito, and many Mexicans adopted the tradition of holding the ceremony at around 11 p.m. long before Díaz came to power.
When it comes to Mexico's elderly, they are often treated much better than in other countries. Why? (Pixar)
For Día de los Muertos 2024, I was in Mérida, Mexico — that fascinating city where old-world mansions and Mexican culture collide. The parade, set amongst limestone colonial facades and bustling cafés, was appropriately otherworldly. Oversized devils and demons danced through the streets. Gallant skeletons and costumed monsters turned nightmares into fantasy and excitement under the darkened skies.
What caught my attention most however, was another group in the parade. Not monsters, but beautifully dressed elderly individuals in traditional garb — women in spectacular embroidered dresses gracefully swishing their skirts, men gallant and gentlemanly, all elegantly holding candles and engaged in a synchronized dance. I was mesmerized. The wizened dancers were beautiful to behold. They were dignified, almost luminous. Seeing their beauty and respectful inclusion in the day’s events made me wonder about cultural differences — the perception of aging, the treatment of the elderly. And what does it mean when, in America, Nana is sent to a nursing home while, in Mexico, Abuelita performs a vital role for a very long time in her family unit?
(Vania Valadez Jalife)
Perceptions of aging: U.S. vs Mexico
There is, at its heart, a cultural difference in how aging itself, is seen in Mexico versus the United States. In the U.S, aging is something to resist or conceal: wrinkles are “problems,” old age is synonymous with fragility. In Mexico, the language itself reflects a different value system. Spanish speakers use the expression “más grande” (literally “bigger” or “greater”) to describe someone older, suggesting stature, growth, and respect rather than decline. There is an inherent message built into this expression — one that starkly differs from the English language expression “older. These linguistic differences are the initial window into the perception of elders and aging in Mexico versus the US.
Nursing home vs family home
The statistics alone reveal a profound cultural divide. Nursing homes in the United States house over 1.3 million residents, representing 2.3% of the population over 60 (Statista, 2014). In Mexico, that figure plummets to just 25,357 residents, a mere 0.16% of the elderly population. This isn’t simply about economic considerations in elder care; it’s about fundamentally different approaches to aging within society.
In Mexico, the elderly aren’t just dependents awaiting care — they perform crucial functions within the household. A 2012 study on caregiving and elderly health in Mexico revealed that Mexican elderly contribute both economically (through pension contribution to the househand) and socially. Many remain active in households, either through domestic tasks or helping care for grandchildren. The data shows that while some elderly require support with activities of daily living (basic self-care tasks like bathing and eating) and instrumental activities of daily living (more complex tasks like managing finances and transportation), others remain independent and contribute to family well-being.
Interestingly, the study also found that care from daughters, significantly reduced the probability of death and slowed decline in functional ability. Sons’ care showed no statistically significant protective effect, highlighting the gendered nature of effective eldercare.
(Gabriela Pérez Montiel/Cuartoscuro)
The implications are complex. Families — especially daughters — play a central role in supporting elderly health in Mexico and this informal care demonstrably saves lives. However, relying on informal care can reduce public costs but may create economic and emotional burdens for caregivers, potentially affecting their labor force participation and well-being. Informal care in Mexico, particularly from daughters, improves elderly survival and functional health, but the gendered burden on caregivers raises important social and policy concerns.
Elderly depictions in Mexican literature
In Mexican literature, abuelas are often portrayed as matriarchs and cultural guardians, — preserving family traditions, rituals, and memory — while embodying both nurturing and restrictive roles. These roles are often shaped by patriarchal systems, as in “Like Water for Chocolate” by Laura Esquivel, where Mama Elena enforces strict family rules with an iron fist. They are keepers of history and tradition; bringers of healing and wisdom.
Abuelos, by contrast, appear as gentle mentors and storytellers, guiding younger generations with patience and lived experience. In “Dear Abuelo” by Grecia Huesca Dominguez, the grandfather is a comforting figure who represents home and continuity between tradition and the present. In some works, however, elderly men are cast as solitary or enigmatic.
Across Mexican and broader Hispanic literature, abuelos and abuelas embody cultural preservation, familial authority, and intergenerational continuity. Aging is portrayed with complexity and respect. In contrast, Anglo-American literature takes a more individualistic bent, with grandparents highlighted for quirks or companionship rather than cultural gatekeeping — think Grandpa Joe in Roald Dahl’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
A bridge between the living and the afterlife
The U.S. might view aging as decline; Mexico often views it as continuity. The difference is not just in how people age, but in how they are seen, respected and integrated into the living fabric of community. Día de los Muertos itself exemplifies respect for elders — living and departed. Ancestors are honored as sacred, continuing to participate in family life through ofrendas, food, and ritual. The holiday also serves as a metaphor for the elderly in Mexican culture — as essential participants in a living tradition, carriers of ritual, culture and tradition. Ancestors are sacred, death embraced rather than hidden, and elders stand as bridges between past and present, the living and the dead.
Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at medium.com/@monicabelot.
Mexico's answer to Machu Picchu: Palenque (Nellie Huang)
After spending 15 years traipsing through 150 countries as a travel writer, I’ve had my fair share of “pinch me” moments. I’ve stared eye-to-eye with a Silverback gorilla in Uganda, felt the earth tremble under the hooves of a million wildebeest on a Serengeti safari, and drifted to sleep amidst the symphony of the Amazon rainforest. Yet, after all these epic encounters, my adopted home of Mexico still astounds me with its own treasures — places that don’t just rival the big hitters but hold their unique, powerful magic.
This new series is all about celebrating just that. Through the coming months, we’re going on a journey through Mexico, unearthing incredible experiences and lesser-known sites that, in my opinion, are comparable to some of the world’s most deeply moving places. We’ll explore beyond the postcards and discover the unspoken secrets of the country.
For the second installment of the series, prepare to be impressed if you’ve ever dreamt of, or perhaps experienced, the magic of Machu Picchu. Allow me to introduce you to a remarkable peer right here in Mexico: the ancient city of Palenque.
Machu Picchu vs. Palenque
Nellie Huang has visited over 150 countries, but is currently celebrating the glories of Mexico in sites like Palenque. (Nellie Huang)
I know what you’re thinking, ‘How can Machu Picchu, the iconic city of the Inca in Peru, be similar to Palenque, nestled deep in the jungles of Chiapas?’ And you’re right, they sprang from different cultures, thrived in different landscapes, and are separated by thousands of miles. Yet, both these archaeological marvels speak volumes about human ingenuity and ambition. They were built by incredibly advanced civilizations, achieving architectural and astronomical feats that still astound us today.
The Inca carved Machu Picchu into a mountain ridge, constructing a city where stones fit together so tightly like a perfect jigsaw puzzle. The Maya of Palenque, masters of stone, built intricate temples and palaces that rose majestically from the dense rainforest, often with rich carvings and sophisticated structures. Both cultures were master urban planners, laying out entire cities with admirable precision, aligning their temples and avenues to the sun, moon, and stars.
The Inca kingdom
High in the mountains of Peru, Machu Picchu reigns over the valleys below. (Peru.travel)
Perched majestically in Peru’s Sacred Valley, this spectacular 15th-century Inca citadel is one of a kind. Built around 1450 AD by the powerful Inca emperor Pachacuti, this “Lost City of the Incas” remained hidden from the Spanish for centuries, only to be rediscovered in 1911.
And what a discovery! Its sheer beauty is outstanding: intricate stone construction without mortar, sophisticated agricultural terraces, and a stunning harmony with the natural mountain landscape. Often shrouded in a mystical mist, it’s an ethereal place that whispers tales of a powerful, spiritual civilization. It’s no wonder UNESCO named it a World Heritage site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
But here’s the reality check: Machu Picchu can get very busy, especially during peak travel season, and having to jostle with the crowds can take away a bit of its magic. Besides, its remote, mountaintop location means getting to Machu Picchu requires some serious planning and a considerable budget. It’s a fantastic, once-in-a-lifetime journey, for sure, but it’s definitely not easily within reach, compared to the sprawling Palenque ruins.
A powerful Maya city
Palenque was a powerful Maya city in antiquity. (Gobierno de México)
Rising from the thick jungle of Chiapas, Palenque presents a surprisingly similar, yet distinctly Maya, narrative. This was a powerful Classic Maya city-state that flourished between 600 AD and 800 AD. At the height of its power, Palenque commanded a substantial region, extending its reach across portions of modern-day Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Belize, and southern Mexico.
What I love about Palenque is how it makes you feel like a modern-day Indiana Jones, discovering a lost ancient treasure. The massive palaces and soaring temples are still partially swallowed by the jungle, having withstood centuries of tropical downpours, encroaching roots, and the silent passage of time. In fact, archaeologists claim that they have excavated only 10% of this sprawling ancient city; most of it remains buried beneath the earth.
Keep your eyes peeled – I spotted quite a few spider monkeys swinging through the canopy, a coati or two trotting past me with their fluffy tails in the air, and colorful macaws flying overhead. The ancient city is nestled within Palenque National Park, a protected expanse of lush, tropical rainforest. You’ll certainly hear the constant gurgling of running streams and hidden waterfalls, and if you’re lucky, the booming roars of howler monkeys echoing through the trees.
Highlights of Palenque
King Pakal’s sarcophagus and mask are on display in the on-site museum. (Nellie Huang)
Palenque’s most iconic structure is the Temple of the Inscriptions, a pyramid unique in Mesoamerica for being built specifically as a funerary monument for a ruler – the revered King Pakal. Descending into his tomb, which features intricate carvings, is an utterly electrifying sensation.These days, they seal the burial chamber, but make sure to visit the on-site museum, where you can see the sarcophagus and the legendary jade mask of King Pakal on display.
Then there’s the grand Palace complex, with its distinctive four-story tower, courtyards, and elaborate stucco carvings depicting historical events and mythological scenes. It’s less about sheer monumental size and more about exquisite craftsmanship, artistic expression, and a profound understanding of astronomy and religion.
Palenque remains one of the few archaeological sites in Mexico where you can still climb the pyramids. Ascending the steps of the Temple of the Cross or the Temple of the Sun offers sweeping views over the entire archaeological zone and the endless jungle canopy beyond. I sat up there for at least an hour, just staring out into the wilderness and soaking in the sound of nature.
How to make the most of your visit
Palenque’s Maya Train station is no less grand than the ruins themselves. (Arch Daily)
Getting to Palenque is a journey far less complicated and costly than reaching the heights of Machu Picchu. The nearest airport is in Villahermosa (VHM), two hours away by ADO bus from the town of Palenque. From here, colectivos (mini buses) are constantly shuttling visitors to the ruins — it’s a very easy and affordable 15-20 minute ride. Alternatively, catch the new Maya Train and travel in comfort from Cancún all the way to Palenque via Mérida and Campeche.
You’ll want to set aside a good half-day to truly soak in all that Palenque has to offer. My top tip: come early and enter the gates as they open at 8 am. I remember being one of the very first to step inside, watching as the ancient pyramids emerged, almost magically, from the low-hanging morning clouds – a truly unforgettable sight! Consider hiring one of the licensed local guides available right at the entrance. A good guide, with their deep knowledge of the Maya culture and the site’s hidden gems, can truly make a world of difference.
Waterfalls and natural pools
Waterfalls and natural pools are an added attraction at Palenque. (Roberto Barrio)
After a day of exploring the ruins in the sweltering heat, it’s worthwhile cooling off at the nearby Misol-Há and Agua Azul waterfalls. I could have spent all day swimming in the turquoise pools and marveling at the cascading waters here.
Misol-Há, about 20 kilometers (12 miles) from Palenque town, is famous for its single, dramatic curtain of water plunging into a large, swimmable pool. Continuing along the same direction, about 40 kilometers (25 miles) further are the popular Agua Azul waterfalls. Here, you can dive into the turquoise pools and unwind in a series of cascades. However, be warned: the row of souvenir shops and eateries that line the falls can become busy and noisy!
If you only have time for one waterfall, make it the Roberto Barrios waterfall. It’s considerably more beautiful and less crowded than the other falls. I found it a lot more authentic and intimate, but there are no facilities here, so pack some snacks. At roughly 15 kilometers (9 miles) from Palenque town, it’s in a different direction than Misol-Há and Agua Azul. You can easily hire a taxi from Palenque town to hit these falls, just make sure to confirm the return journey options!
A deep dive into Maya history
Maya art at the on-site museum in Palenque. (Nellie Huang)
If Machu Picchu captured your imagination with its ancient secrets and mountain-shrouded mystique, then Palenque in Mexico is undoubtedly your next journey. While its Peruvian counterpart stands as a majestic wonder, Palenque provides that same deep connection to an ambitious, innovative ancient civilization, but in a setting that feels distinctly wilder, more intimate, and more easily accessible. It’s a journey into a living legend, one that not many people know about!
Nellie Huang is a self-proclaimed Mexico-holic and features writer for Mexico News Daily. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.
When people think of Puerto Vallarta, the mental picture is classic: palm-fringed beaches and sunset margaritas. Barbells and burpees are rarely part of the dreamy scenario. As someone who has called the city home for quite some time, I’ve always known Puerto Vallarta to be much more than a place for indulgence. It’s also a hub for fitness and wellness. Over the years, I’ve been a bit of a gym rat here, bouncing between different spots around town. Back when I first arrived, I trained at The Fit Club in the Zona Romantica, which at the time was one of the only gyms in town. Fast forward to today, and Puerto Vallarta has become a city fully focused on physical health, with gyms in every neighborhood and a growing community of athletes.
Traditional Gyms
These days, you can take your pick from a wide variety of fitness centers. Puerto Vallarta is home to Evolution Fitness & Gym, Power Fit Pro Gym, Big Apple Gym, and Optimus Gym, to name just a few, each with its own loyal following. Some are all about heavy lifting and bodybuilding, while others have sleek cardio machines and a more modern, boutique vibe. Currently, I belong to Anytime Fitness at Plaza Caracol, which gives me the flexibility to work out around my travel schedule. The point is, there is no shortage of options, whether you want heavy weights, boutique training, or just a quick treadmill session. And unlike many resort towns, Puerto Vallarta’s gyms are used as much by locals as they are by visitors, which makes them feel more rooted in the community than in the tourist trade.
Running and having fun are not mutually exclusive in Puerto Vallarta. (Costa Endurance Club)
But one of the best things about Vallarta is that residents and visitors don’t have to confine themselves indoors to stay active. The city’s greatest asset is its natural landscape, which doubles as a workout playground.
Running Clubs
If you’re the kind of person who thinks “fun” includes sprinting at dawn, Puerto Vallarta has not one, but two top-tier running and endurance groups.
Costa Endurance Club is a runner’s dream: a high-octane crew that trains several times a week with long-distance runs around the Malecóon and around Puerto Vallarta. Whether you’re prepping for your first Ironman or just want to see what your lungs and legs are made of, this group brings the energy and the camaraderie. Check their Instagram page for updates on upcoming runs.
Then there’s Nova Runners, a friendly, more laid-back running club that’s about good vibes and consistency. You’ll often see them jogging in the evenings, weaving through different neighborhoods around the city. They typically meet in front of the Nissan dealership at 8:30 p.m. It’s the perfect way to stay fit and meet fellow pavement-pounders without feeling like you’ve stumbled into boot camp.
Outdoor Gyms & The Stadium
For those who like fresh air with their fitness, Puerto Vallarta delivers. The Estadio Municipal in the Hotel Zone is home to a 400-meter track that’s open to the public, along with an open-air gym area complete with weights and calisthenics equipment. I’ve seen it buzzing at all hours: early risers doing interval training, families with kids running sprints, and retirees walking laps at their own pace.
Yoga, Pilates & Wellness
Maintain your flexibility in Puerto Vallarta at Flying Heart Yoga. (Flying Heart Yoga)
Not everything here is about brute strength or speed. Vallarta has embraced a slower, more mindful side of wellness, too. Studios like Flying Heart Yoga and Taraka Yoga offer classes ranging from restorative flows to power sessions. Pilates reformer studios are also gaining traction, particularly in neighborhoods like Marina Vallarta.
Hiking in the Sierra Madre
When I want a workout that doubles as an adventure, I hit the trails. The Sierra Madre mountains that frame Puerto Vallarta are laced with hiking routes that locals often use for cardio. Popular treks include the Boca de Tomatlán to Las Animas trail, the thigh-burning climb to Mirador de la Cruz with its sweeping city views, and the jungle hike to Quimixto waterfall. For many of us, hiking isn’t just recreation — it’s the ultimate workout, with steep climbs and tropical heat pushing both body and mind.
Water Workouts
And then, of course, there’s the Bay. Stand-up paddleboarding is a great core workout, while surfers head to Sayulita and Punta Mita to test their balance and endurance. Open-water swimmers often train along the coastline, and kayaking to Los Arcos is another way to combine fitness with fun. There’s nothing like watching the sunrise over the mountains from the seat of a kayak. In Vallarta, it’s nearly impossible not to be drawn to the water as part of your fitness routine.
Specialty & Group Fitness
Beyond the mainstream, Vallarta has plenty of niche fitness options. CrossFit enthusiasts can drop into local boxes like CrossFit Vallarta, while dance lovers can join salsa or Zumba classes that double as cardio workouts. Boxing gyms and martial arts studios add variety, offering high-intensity training with a strong community feel.
Puerto Vallarta’s fitness culture is just as well-rounded as its nightlife or dining. From traditional gyms where I’ve logged countless hours to running clubs, stadium tracks, yoga studios, jungle trails, and ocean workouts, this city offers something for every style of fitness.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
Zapote negro is an underrated taste of Mexico. (Wikimedia Commons/Critical Miami)
There are flavors that define a childhood, and then there are those you spend most of your childhood avoiding. For me, that flavor was zapote negro with orange: a jet-black ice cream that, to my young mind, looked more like an oil spill than a treat. I remember the way my grandparents and parents smiled as they offered it to me, almost reverently. I was convinced they were lying. How could something so dark, so suspicious, be delicious, an iconic taste of Mexico?
I resisted for years. Then one day, I took a bite.
Once you take a bit of black zapote, you’ll wonder why you ever doubted its deliciousness. (Facebook)
It was a quiet betrayal of my younger self. Sweet, smooth, and with a citrusy edge, it tasted like nothing I’d ever had — except perhaps the chili-laced lollipops I used to hoard. I’d wasted years in stubborn ignorance. Now, whenever I spot a black zapote at the market, I’m reminded of my mistake — and feel a tinge of shame. So allow me to save you the trouble: this strange-looking fruit is a Mexican treasure worth discovering.
Tliltzapotl
In the language of the Mexica, it was called tlilzapotl, or “black sweet fruit.” According to legend, it was a gift from Tzapotaletnan, fruit goddess. Eating it was not a ritual act — but it did carry a trace of the divine.
That sense of wonder still lingers today. The flesh of a ripe zapote negro is soft and custard-like, dark as ink, with a flavor that conjures comparisons to chocolate pudding or burnt caramel. It is deceptively delicious.
It was not only delicious, it was also a medicine. Pre-Hispanic cultures used zapote as a natural sedative, a laxative and even a remedy for skin and liver ailments. It soothed the body, calmed the nerves, and pleased the palate. The Maya, Zapotec, Totonac, Mixe, and Huastec peoples all cultivated it and gave it their own names. Their own stories. The fruit grew across a vast swath of Mesoamerica — from the coastal plains of Jalisco and Veracruz to the jungles of Chiapas and the Yucatán Peninsula. Even down to Colombia.
Zapote negro in colonial eyes
When Spanish friars like Bernardino de Sahagún encountered the fruit, their reaction seemed not unlike my childhood one. Surely, they must have thought, this was a mistake—rotten, perhaps, or simply unfit for European taste. While zapote negro was never really banned, like other Indigenous staples such as quelites, it remained largely on the margins. It was a food for Indigenous people and mestizos, but it rarely appeared on the tables of colonial elites.
Its flavor, its form, its rapid spoilage — it all made the fruit an outsider in its own land.
A crusade for black zapote
What black zapote looks like before it’s picked from its eponymous tree. (Gobierno de Mexico)
I’ve long believed in the quiet defense of native Mexican ingredients. I’ve asked you before to reconsider beans, to embrace quelites, to look at tortillas not as vessels, but as culture. And now, I find myself campaigning for the black zapote — a fruit once so familiar in my childhood that I hardly noticed it, and now so rare I have to Google it for my friends.
Its appearance works against it. The skin stays green even when ripe, and the flesh turns black. If you leave it too long, it grows melancholic and decays. It looks like something you should throw away. But bite into it at the right moment, and it will surprise you.
I don’t want this flavor to disappear.
One more reason
If I still haven’t convinced you to try this fruit, maybe its health benefits will. A whopping 21% of a single zapote is pure fiber. It’s packed with antioxidants and bursting with vitamins A, C and E.
Translation? It helps regulate blood sugar, supports your digestive system, and acts as a natural sedative for those nights when sleep won’t come. It’s wellness wrapped in dark pulp.
Traditional black zapote dessert
This is one of the simplest, most beloved ways to enjoy black zapote in Mexico. It’s halfway between a dessert and a soft embrace.
Black zapote desserts are an excellent way to highlight the fruit’s delicious qualities. (Instagram)
1. Strain the zapote pulp through a fine sieve to remove seeds and smooth the texture.
2. Gradually mix in the orange juice until evenly combined.
3. Add lime juice to brighten the flavor and prevent discoloration.
4. Taste. If it needs more sweetness, add honey.
5. A dash of rum adds complexity, if you’re feeling bold.
6. Chill for at least two hours.
7. Serve cold, garnished with slices of orange or mandarin. And if you serve it to someone who has never seen zapote before, be sure to watch their expression — it’s a gift in itself.
To the ancient world, it was sacred. To me, it’s a reminder of all the things I dismissed too soon. But to all of us, it can be a window into a more generous way of understanding Mexican food. It’s complex, contradictory, nourishing — just like the culture that birthed it.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
