Mexico election results: Morena falls short of a supermajority in the Senate

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June 10, 2024

President López Obrador at a press conference — President López Obrador showed the Morena coalition's anticipated congressional seats at the Monday morning press conference, following the publication of final election results. While the allocation of seats will not be confirmed until August, Morena and its allies will have a supermajority in the lower house and will be just shy of one in the upper house. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)

Final election results indicate that Mexico’s ruling Morena party and its allies easily won a two-thirds majority in the lower house of Congress, but fell just short of a supermajority in the Senate.

Morena will thus have to seek support from a few opposition senators in order to approve the constitutional reform proposals submitted to Congress by President Andrés Manuel López Obrador in February.

Mexico's Constitution in Congress — López Obrador has proposed 20 constitutional reforms before the end of his term on Sept. 30, 2024. (Cuartoscuro)

López Obrador, Morena’s founder, will hand over the presidential sash to Claudia Sheinbaum on Oct. 1, exactly one month after the new Congress is sworn in.

Proportional representation seats won’t be officially allocated until August, but June 2 results announced by the National Electoral Institute (INE) on Sunday indicate that Morena and its allies, the Labor Party (PT) and the Green Party (PVEM), won 370 of 500 seats in the Chamber of Deputies and 82 of 128 seats in the Senate, according to the newspaper El Economista.

A two-thirds majority is 334 seats in the Chamber of Deputies and 86 seats in the Senate.

Morena’s national president, Mario Delgado, was slightly more optimistic about the rewards the Morena-PT-PVEM coalition will reap from its strong showing in the elections on the first Sunday in June.

He posted an infographic to social media that showed that the three allied parties will have 372 seats in the Chamber of Deputies and 83 in the Senate.

“Thanks to all of you Plan C is a reality!” Delgado wrote above the image, referencing López Obrador’s much-touted plan to gain sufficient support for his reform proposals by winning supermajorities in Congress.

A group of politicians at a podium — The Morena party national president, Mario Delgado, showed optimism about Morena’s results in the Senate. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro.com)

“With a qualified majority in the Chamber of Deputies and a majority in the Senate, we will deepen the transformation in order to continue building a country with wellbeing and shared prosperity,” the Morena national president added.

Delgado has expressed confidence that gaining the support of a few opposition lawmakers to approve constitutional reforms will not be an overly difficult task.

Among López Obrador’s planned reforms are ones to disband several autonomous government agencies, change Mexico’s electoral system, overhaul the pension system, incorporate the National Guard into the military and allow citizens to directly elect Supreme Court justices and other judges.

Critics say that some of the proposals will reduce checks and balances on executive power in Mexico.

Preliminary results indicating that Morena and its allies would have the numbers in Congress to approve the proposals with little or no negotiation with opposition parties caused the Mexican peso and the Mexican Stock Exchange (BMV) to lose significant ground last week.

The BMV has recovered some of its losses, but the peso remains well below its pre-election level. It was trading at just above 18.30 to the US dollar at midday Mexico City time on Monday.

Rogelio Ramírez de la O and Claudia Sheinbaum — Rogelio Ramírez de la O will stay on as Finance Minister “indefinitely” and has laid out a list of economic commitments endorsed by President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum. (Claudia Sheinbaum/X)

President-elect Sheinbaum last week sought to calm markets by announcing that Finance Minister Rogelio Ramírez de la O would remain in his position when she takes office and endorsing a set of economic commitments outlined by Ramírez de la O.

She also said there would be broad dialogue about the reform proposals, but López Obrador appears determined to get at least some of them — especially his proposed judicial reform — approved before his term as president ends.

Political makeup of Mexico’s Chamber of Deputies

As mentioned earlier, proportional representation seats — 200 in the Chamber of Deputies and 32 in the Senate — will not be officially allocated until August. Legal challenges could affect the final allocation of seats in both houses of Congress.

The governing alliance

According to the newspaper El Economista, Morena won 245 seats in the lower house of Congress, the PVEM won 77 and PT won 48. The three parties together would thus have 270 seats.

INE results show that Morena won 40.8% of the vote in the Chamber of Deputies election, the PVEM attracted 8.4% support and the PT received 5.5% of all ballots cast.

The three-party coalition known as Let’s Keep Making History thus won 54.7% of the vote. It will have more than triple the number of seats of the three-party opposition bloc.

The PVEM, which was previously an ally of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), will be the second biggest party in the Chamber of Deputies after Morena.

The opposition

Once the recently-elected lawmakers assume their positions on Sept. 1, the National Action Party (PAN) will have 68 seats in the lower house of Congress, the PRI will have 33 and the PRD will have three, according to El Economista.

Thus, the three-party alliance made up of the PAN, the PRI and the PRD will have 104 seats.

Strength and Heart for Mexico, as the coalition is called, supported Xóchitl Gálvez in the presidential election. She attracted 27.45% of the vote, well behind Sheinbaum with 59.75%.

INE results show that the PAN won 16.9% of the vote in the Chamber of Deputies election, the PRI attracted 11.1% support and the PRD received 2.4% of all ballots cast.

Thus, Strength and Heart for Mexico won 30.4% of the vote.

The Citizens Movement (MC) party won 10.9% of the vote and will have 25 seats in the lower house, according to El Economista. Its presidential election candidate, Jorge Álvarez Máynez, attracted 10.3% support on June 2.

One of the 500 members of the lower house of Congress is set to be an independent.

Deputies serve three-year terms.

A chart showing the composition of Mexico's Senate before and after the June 2, 2024 elections — With 82 senators, the Morena-PVEM-PT bloc is just 4 seats shy of a supermajority in the Senate. (polls.mx)

Breakdown of Mexico’s Senate

The governing alliance

According to El Economista, Morena won 60 seats in the Senate, the PVEM won 14 and the PT won eight. The Morena-led coalition will thus have 82 seats in the upper house.

INE results show that Morena attracted 40.8% of the vote, the PVEM had 8.9% support and the PT received 5.5% of all ballots cast.

Thus, the Morena-led coalition won 55.2% of the vote in the Senate election, narrowly beating its result in the Chamber of Deputies election. Despite that, its percentage of seats in the Senate will be lower than in the Chamber of Deputies.

The opposition

According to El Economista, the PAN won 22 seats in the Senate, the PRI won 16 and the PRD won two. That gives the three-party opposition bloc a total of 40 seats in the upper house.

INE results show that the PAN received 16.8% of the vote, the PRI got 10.9% and the PRD attracted 2.3% support. Combined support for the three-party alliance in the Senate election was 30%.

MC attracted 10.9% support in the Senate election and will have six senators as of Sept. 1, according to El Economista.

Senators serve six-year terms.

Mexico News Daily

5 Mexican LGBTQ+ authors to enjoy this Pride Month

By

Camila Sánchez Bolaño

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June 10, 2024

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Authors Calle and Poché are part of a new wave of Latin American LGBTQ+ writers. Celebrate Pride Month with some of the best authors the scene has to offer. (Calle y Poché/Instagram)

As Mexico moves toward greater inclusivity, our personal libraries and reading lists reflect a greater variety of voices and experiences. Reading Mexican LGBTQ+ authors goes beyond supporting diversity; it enriches our lives by promoting empathy, understanding, and personal growth. By embracing new perspectives, we contribute to a more inclusive society and deepen our appreciation for the shared human experience.

Read on to learn more about eight authors whose works offer unique and valuable perspectives.

Alex Toledo

Alex Toledo is a young author who has captured the attention of many with his short stories and novels that explore urban life and the experiences of modern youth. His fresh and dynamic style combines humor, introspection and a critical look at social structures.

Toledo is known for his ability to capture the voice of a generation facing unique challenges. He began writing texts for media aimed at the LGBTQ+ community and later started his own blog, where he initially discussed how he rediscovered his sexuality. In addition to making content for social networks, he has dedicated himself to writing diverse stories.

Recommended books: “Se curan rotos, descosidos y deshilachados” (They Heal Broken, Unstitched and Frayed”) and “Ni siempre, ni nunca (ni tú, ni yo)” (Not Always, Not Ever (Not You, Not Me)”.

Rafael Cabrera

Rafael Cabrera is a contemporary author and journalist whose work has been instrumental in representing cultural diversity in modern literature. Cabrera is noted for his ability to weave complex narratives that are deeply personal and universally resonant.

He is the investigative journalist who became famous for co-authoring the investigation of President Enrique Peña Nieto’s administration, which Cabrera says is “a gay report, with great humor.” Although he hasn’t dabbled in writing about LGBTQ+ issues, we highly recommend you follow him.

Recommended book: “Debo olvidar que existí” (“I Must Forget that I Existed”) which is a portrait of Mexican novelist, screenwriter and journalist Elena Garro — credited with initiating Mexico’s magical realism genre — and the circumstances under which she wrote “Los recuerdos del porvenir” (“Memories of the Future”).

Luis Zapata

Luis Zapata, a veteran of Latin American literature, is a very influential figure in Mexican gay literature. His works often address issues of sexuality and marginalization, providing a platform for voices that are often silenced.

Zapata is celebrated for his courage in tackling taboo subjects and for his ability to humanize characters struggling with social and personal adversity. The author died in 2020, but his work is a legacy that reflects, far from clichés and prejudices, the life of flesh-and-blood people who live among us.

Recommended book: “El vampiro de la colonia Roma” (“The Vampire of the Roma Neighborhood”). This book is the watershed moment at which LGBTQ+ literature in Mexico came out of hiding.

Clyo Mendoza

Clyo Mendoza Herrera is one of the most profound voices in contemporary fiction and poetry that recovers the voices of native peoples, victims of gender violence, and desolate spaces. In 2017, she became the youngest writer ever to win the poetry prize in Mexico’s Sor Juana Inés International Literature Contest.

Clyo writes poetry and novels, where she explores different literary techniques, using free verse and automatic writing.

Recommended book: “Furia” is a journey through madness. The book offers a poignant questioning of love and violence, the way they often seem to be intertwined and the suffering both bring.

Reyna Barrera

Reyna Barrera’s work, deeply influenced by her cultural heritage, offers an introspective look at the struggles and triumphs of women in diverse contexts.

She has dedicated her life to social justice and freedom, participating in countless strikes and marches for the causes she believes in, especially minority rights. Her testimony to lesbian love has been an inspiration to many who fight for equality and acceptance of sexual diversity in Mexico and around the world.

Beginning her literary career in the 1980s, she has explored themes of love and sexuality and has been a staunch advocate for freedom of expression and gender equality. Barrera is a powerful and necessary voice in contemporary literature, and her work promises to continue to impact readers of all ages.

Recommended book: “Sandra, secreto amor.” (“Sandra, Secret Love”). In this book, Barrera achieves a perfect narrative style in the conception of a still forbidden plot that questions gender and sexuality norms in Mexican society.

Mexico is home to writers from all over the world, and there are three LGBTQ+ Latin American writers who have adopted Mexico and have been adopted as Mexicans. They deserve the spotlight, too.

Calle and Poché

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Una publicación compartida por Calle y Poché (@calleypoche)

This pair of super popular Colombian content creators and romantic partners have together become an icon of the Latin American LGBTQ+ community by defending their civil rights and being open about their personal life and their lesbian relationship. They have over 7 million subscribers to their YouTube channel.

Recommended book: “Sí, si es contigo,” (“Yes, If It Is With You”) a novel about first love and how painful and wonderful it can be. And the sequel “¿Y si no es conimgo?” (“And If It Is Not With You?”)

José Ignacio Valenzuela

The author is also known as “Chascas” by his younger audience. He stands out among LGBTQ+ writers coming from Chile, a place where there is still much to be done to guarantee the right to gender and sexual diversity. Valenzuela and his partner recently went through the process of adopting a child, and he writes about that experience.

Recommended book: “Gente como yo” (“People Like Me”) is the story of a gay couple in search of parenthood, inspired by Valenzuela’s personal experiences. And “Un día con papá y dada” (“A Day With Papa and Dada”), a children’s book dedicated to his daughter, Leonora.

The writers mentioned here are just a tiny sample of the talents that enrich the Mexican literary world. We invite you to share this article and recommend in the comments other Mexican LGBTQ+ writers you think deserve to be better known.

Camila Sánchez Bolaño is a journalist, feminist, bookseller, lecturer, and cultural promoter and is Editor in Chief of Newsweek en Español magazine.

3 easy ways to make your Mexican home more sustainable

By

Ana Paula De la Torre

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June 10, 2024

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An eco home — Whether a new build or an existing home, converting your home to a sustainable one is always a great decision. (La Casita Ecológica Sierra Gorda/Facebook)

The concepts of self-sufficiency and self-sustainability are more prevalent than ever, largely due to people’s desire for autonomy and independence and the fact that both contribute to increased sustainability in the world, a Sustainable Development Goal recognized by the United Nations as urgent to achieve the necessary energy transition. This has led to a new wave of sustainable homes in Mexico, designed to help the environment and deliver savings to homeowners.

It is becoming increasingly evident that energy sovereignty on the national level is crucial in reducing the global carbon footprint. Some nations have greater potential to achieve this, depending on their access to clean energy sources.

Modern, eco-friendly designs have become popular in Mexico in recent years. They combine stunning architecture with ingenious cost savings and energy reduction. (CC)

In the case of Mexico, the abundance of sunlight for approximately 12 hours a day, most of the year, makes certain areas ideal for generating sustainable homes with renewable energy. This particularity is advantageous as factors like cleaning, water purification systems, temperature control and water management systems can rely on the renewable energy sourced from the sun.

According to the Geophysical Institute of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), a square area of Mexico measuring 50 kilometers per side receives sufficient solar radiation throughout the year to fulfil the energy requirements of a population of 120 million people. Just imagine the possibilities!

How can I make my Mexican home more sustainable?

Energy

Achieving self-sufficiency in electricity production is within reach. Angel de la Torre is an early adopter of solar panel implementation in the ranching industry in Mexico. He was able to recoup his investment within five years both at home and in his business, achieving complete energy self-sufficiency.

David Andrew Henry, a Canadian economist and specialist in strategic planning, has resided in Yucatán for 20 years. “I installed 16 solar panels five years ago for $9,000,” he told Mexico News Daily. “My monthly bill from the Federal Electricity Commission (CFE) is now only 110 pesos. It has been my most beneficial investment. Prior to installing the solar panels, I used to worry about CFE surcharges, constantly telling myself not to use the air conditioner too much to avoid higher costs.”

Solar panels can provide homes with the power they need to run and allow electricity to be sold to Mexico’s national provider. (CC)

In terms of gas consumption, Mexico City’s UNAM University reports that household use accounts for 63% of the LPG gas consumed in the country. Solar water heaters can play a crucial role: on average, you could recoup your investment in two years and reduce your gas consumption by up to 75%.

Temperature

It is crucial to leverage your environment in terms of location and materials, preferably starting from the construction phase. David Henry implemented adjustments for temperature control: “In this Yucatán region, many houses have flat concrete roofs that absorb and retain heat throughout the day, radiating temperatures of 40 to 50°C round the clock”.

To address this, he added 4 inches of styrofoam insulation under the roof, allowing him to cool the room to a comfortable 25°C. “This temperature is maintained for approximately an hour without needing to run the air conditioning,” Dr. Henry told me.

“I recently installed a new 12,000 BTU mini-split unit, and the cold air stratifies. Another important factor is to install the diffusers at a lower height. In my case, they are positioned at 2 meters (6 feet) from the ground, whereas in Yucatán, most are typically installed near the ceiling,” he says.

Adobe house — Adobe is a thermal material that keeps the house at a comfortable temperature, no matter the conditions outside. (Expedia)

Water

Becoming more self-sufficient and sustainable often begins with the fundamentals: water collection. Mexico is home to rain harvesting initiatives like Isla Urbana, a social enterprise that has developed cost-effective rainwater collection systems. So far, they have implemented 30,700 systems, benefiting at least 584,834 individuals.

Installing this type of system is incredibly simple in addition to being a responsible choice. Water-saving devices are also highly significant. For instance, a toilet saver can be very cost-effective, saving up to 1.5 liters of water per flush. A faucet aerator can work wonders, saving up to 9.5 liters per minute. A showerhead saver can save up to 16 liters per minute. Numerous options are available that are as efficient, if not more, than the products offered by Isla Urbana, and are equally cost-effective.

Another effective method to enhance water sustainability in your home is to treat greywater. Greywater describes wastewater from sinks, laundry rooms, showers and washing machines. This type of water is generally less harmful to health and the environment compared to the blackwater generated by toilets. With an appropriate treatment system, greywater can offer essential nutrients that plants require for growth, making it suitable for reuse. Various filters are available on the market to meet your specific needs in this area.

Tips to make your home more sustainable

Plants and seeds — Ensuring your home is eco-friendly can lead to great savings and help the planet at the same time. (Markus Spiske/Unsplash)

As mentioned earlier, energy efficiency plays a crucial role in achieving a more sustainable home, alongside other key aspects such as effective water management and temperature control systems. Additionally, implementing proper waste management practices, including separating organic waste for composting and recyclable waste, is essential. While some cities in Mexico may mix waste in garbage trucks, it is possible to research alternative ways to dispose of recyclable materials directly.

For the best outcomes, expert advice can help identify the necessary resources available on the market. Enhancing the sustainability of your home contributes positively to Mexico and the environment — and potentially your finances as well.

Ana Paula de la Torre is a Mexican journalist and collaborator for various outlets including Milenio, Animal Político, Vice, Newsweek en Español, Televisa and Mexico News Daily.

I was only going to stay a year, but now it’s been 7!

By

Bel Woodhouse

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June 9, 2024

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67a19614_z copy — A short trip to Mexico became anything but, thanks to the stunning beauty of the country and the people. (Expedia)

People often ask why I love Mexico. The answer is a simple one.

Mexico took me by surprise. A delightful surprise. Originally wanting to move to Valencia, Spain, my plan was to move from Antigua Guatemala, where I’d lived for two years, to Mexico where it was easier to become a resident (back then) and apply for Spanish visas.

Then I fell in love.

With the warmth of the people and the amazing variations in cultures; Mexican, Mayan and other indigenous groups. I fell in love with the art, the textiles and fabrics, as well as the incredibly talented artisans bringing it all to life with amazingly vibrant color. Yes, the colors, most of all, the quintessentially joyful Mexican colors, are what I fell in love with. And let’s not forget the food.

The amazing food, made fresh daily like a gift, made my tastebuds dance. I mean if you’ve never had a tlacoyo stuffed with beans and topped with perfectly sautéed huitlacoche drizzled with cream then I’d love to be there when you do. My taste buds rejoiced and I’ve never had a more perfect breakfast. No wonder it’s been a favorite since pre-Hispanic times. Like your Grandmother’s recipes, which always seem to taste amazing, these traditional recipes have been handed down for hundreds (if not thousands) of years, and you just don’t mess with perfection.

All of these things blew me away and that’s why I decided to stay another year, then another. Now, it’s been seven and delightful surprises still pop up all the time. Just today, I was delighted at the optometrist.

My glasses needed repair, which will take two weeks. Without them, I am lost but was delighted that a pair of readers in my prescription was only twenty-five pesos.

To clarify, I live on Cozumel, an island in the Riviera Maya region of the Mexican Caribbean, so repairs take longer because my glasses have to be sent to the mainland. While that’s less than ideal, I was delighted that replacements in my prescription were available so cheaply that I picked up two pairs just in case I misplaced one.

That’s the thing about Mexico. Even if you are inconvenienced, there is always a quick (and normally cheap) fix to get you through. Yes, even though there has been a lot of discussion lately about the cost of living increase, it is still a lot cheaper than in the US.

As Mexico Correspondent for International Living, I travel regularly. Every time I go to the US to speak at conferences or attend boot camps, I am always taken aback by the difference in the price of things. Out of curiosity, I asked my friend in the US, who recently bought a pair of cheap reading glasses from the pharmacy, how much they were. She replied, “Oh nothing, they were ten or fifteen dollars.”

Even at that ‘cheap’ price they are still ten times more expensive in the US. My cheap is a different cheap. My prescription twenty-five peso reading glasses (US $1.50) compared to fifteen dollars, I know which cheap I’d prefer for the same glasses.

Optometrists in Cozumel — While there has been a noticeable rise in the cost of living, Mexico still offers excellent value for residents. (Optica Caribe)

So, when I hear people complaining about inflation, I’m still thankful that I live in Mexico because today’s little excursion to the optometrist would have been ten times more expensive if I didn’t live here.

Plus, the warmth of the Mexican people is evident in every daily interaction. Like a local, I caught the combi — a collectivo which is a local van transport — to the optometrist. As soon as the door slid open there were smiling faces and as I sat was met with a chorus of buenos diás. Now when was the last time you got on a bus and everyone smiled and said good morning?

The same thing happened when I entered the optometrist’s shop. All the staff wore big smiles, and another chorus of buenos diás met my ears. Now, I don’t know about you, but that’s how I like to start my day — with smiling faces and people warmly saying good morning.

This is why I stay. This is why I love it here. It hasn’t changed in seven years, though prices have gone up. More foreigners arrive each year after realizing how relaxing and wonderful it is, but the local people never change.

There is a genuineness here and all through Mexico. Last month, I went on a work trip to San Miguel de Allende. From passing people in the street to the cleaner sweeping the steps of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel early one morning to the driver who I called every time I needed a ride. Every single one of them was lovely, warm, full of smiles, and most importantly, were angels when listening to my bad Spanish.

As you can see, I was only supposed to stay a year but even now seven years I fall a little more in love each day with no plans of leaving just yet. Spain can wait. Or perhaps become an extended vacation at some point because Mexico has embraced my heart and soul.

Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.

The golfer’s guide to Mexico – Where to play the country’s best courses

By

Chris Sands

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June 9, 2024

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home_getting_here — Mexico has some of the best golf courses in the world, with some of the most incredible and must-play holes in the sport. (TPC Danzante Golf Resort)

Mexico is one of the world’s best but most underrated golfing destinations, with great courses in almost every region. At their best, these courses feature world-class designs from very familiar names — most notably Jack Nicklaus and Greg Norman — in spectacular natural settings. Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of these golf meccas are found in well-traveled resort areas. That makes them easy to find for most vacationers but also increases competition for tee times.

However, there are plenty of hidden gems, too, including outstanding layouts in some unexpected places.

The top golf destinations in Mexico

Golf locales like Los Cabos, the Riviera Maya and Puerto Vallarta aren’t just popular with tourists. They’ve also proven increasingly popular for the PGA, LPGA and LIV Golf Tours.

Los Cabos

Cliffside 17th hole at Danzante Bay. It is probably the definitive bucket list golf hole in Mexico, and one of the few worldwide worth traveling to see in person. (TPC Danzante Golf Resort)

Cabo is especially notable, as it’s the golf capital of Mexico and, indeed, all of Latin America. Eighteen courses are currently open, with up to six more being planned or under construction. With only one exception — the modest Vidanta course that started the golf trend in 1987 — all are world-class layouts from a who’s who of big-name designers, including Nicklaus, Norman, Tiger Woods, Davis Love III, Fred Couples and Tom Weiskopf. Love’s links-style Dunes Course at Diamante in Cabo San Lucas is the most highly rated, peaking at 34th in Golf Digest’s listing of the “World’s 100 Greatest” layouts. However, it was a neighboring course, Woods’ parkland El Cardonal, that was chosen to host the first PGA event in Los Cabos, the World Wide Technology Championship in 2023, after it was moved from Mayakoba on the Rivera Maya due to drama surrounding the Saudi-backed LIV Tour (of which that course’s designer Greg Norman is CEO).

The TPC Danzante Bay Golf Resort in Loreto, another Baja California Sur destination, is also a must visit thanks to its Rees Jones design and stunning backdrops featuring offshore islands.

Quintana Roo

The picturesque Greg Norman-designed El Camaleón Mayakoba Golf Course on the Riviera Maya. (Fairmont Hotels and Resorts)

The state of Quintana Roo isn’t far behind Los Cabos in its number of world-class golf layouts. It makes sense, since about 20 million people annually travel to its best-known resort area, Cancún.

Like Los Cabos, the best courses in Cancún come from high-profile former players. Three-time major champion Nick Price crafted the world-class El Tinto Course at Cancún Country Club; another major champion, Tom Weiskopf, designed Puerto Cancún; and the greatest champion of them all, Nicklaus, laid out Riviera Cancún.

Norman’s then-newly opened El Camaleón Mayakoba Golf Course became the first official PGA Tour event in Mexico following its premier on the Riviera Maya in 2007. Thanks to its mix of divergent terrains — from jungle and wetlands to coastline holes boasting Caribbean vistas — it’s one of the most memorable regional loops and now serves as a LIV Tour stop each year. It’s located just north of Playa del Carmen. Nicklaus’ Cozumel Country Club is the top golf spot on the eponymous nearby island.

Puerto Vallarta and Nuevo Vallarta

On the 6th green at the Jack Nicklaus-designed Quivira Golf Club in Cabo San Lucas. (Quivira Los Cabos)

Nicklaus put Los Cabos on the golfing map and then did the same for Nuevo Vallarta with his superb Bahía and Pacífico courses at Punta Mita; and Puerto Vallarta with his course at Vista Vallarta. Norman’s Vidanta Vallarta course also deserves plaudits, since it’s now the site of the oldest pro tournament in the country, the Abierto Mexicano de Golf. The event has been played since the 1940s, including at several locations and as a stop on several tours — Challenger, Nationwide and the PGA Tour Latinoamérica, to name a few — before it graduated to the PGA rota in 2022.

Mexico City

Club de Golf Chapultepec in Mexico City has hosted the National Open 18 times. In recent years, it has also played host to the WGC-Mexico Championship, treating galleries to the sight of golf balls sailing massive distances due to the course’s nearly 8,000 feet in elevation. Laid out by Scotsman Willie Smith during the Mexican Revolution and renovated by Percy Clifford in the early 1970s, it hosted the WGC event for only four years, 2017 through 2020, before it was moved due to pandemic conditions and then dropped from the rotation. It’s private, so it’s not playable unless you know a member. This, it should be mentioned, is an issue at many courses in Mexico City, including Nicklaus’ Bosques Real and Cañadas de Santa Fe courses.

Lorena Ochoa and LPGA landmarks

Tres Marías Golf Course in Morelia, designed by Jack Nicklaus. (Tres Marías)

It’s worth noting that Mexico’s most accomplished golfer, retired star and World Golf Hall of Fame member Lorena Ochoa, has also been associated with domestically hosted tournaments. She is a three-time winner of the LPGA-sponsored Tres Marías Championship, held between 2005 and 2010 at the Jack Nicklaus-designed Tres Marías Residential Golf Club in Morelia, Michoacán. She never won her eponymous tournament, the Lorena Ochoa Invitational, contested between 2008 and 2017, which originally saw top money winners on the tour playing John Bredemus’ Guadalajara Country Club layout, considered one of the best in the country. But that might be because she retired in 2010, prior to the event’s relocation to the likewise acclaimed Lawrence Hughes and Percy Clifford-designed Club de Golf México in Mexico City.

The legacy of the “Golden Amigo”

What quickly becomes apparent to anyone playing golf in Mexico is how many of the best courses were designed by the “Golden Amigo,” Jack Nicklaus. It’s all the more remarkable considering the 18-time major champion didn’t design his first course in Mexico until 1993, when he completed the first 18 of 27 holes at Palmilla in Los Cabos.

In the three decades since, Nicklaus has crafted five more courses in Los Cabos; two at Puerto Peñasco in Sonora; and one each in Campeche and Mérida, among many others, including previously mentioned loops on the Riviera Maya and in Puerto Vallarta, Nuevo Vallarta and Mexico City. All are of excellent quality.

His El Jaguar course is a particularly underrated gem. Crafted around lakes, sacred Maya cenotes and ancient archaeological remains, Nicklaus’ 7,282-yard layout is a master class in integrating a course within its natural setting. The course features an unusual five par-3s and five par-5s to accommodate its picturesque routing. But it’s bookending par-4 holes at 9 and 18 that are among the best golf holes in the country.

A brief history of Mexican golf

As Nicklaus’ legacy suggests, just as in the United States, where Scottish immigrants played an outsize role in the game’s development, golf in Mexico has benefitted from international influences. The first golf links ever built in the country — the six-hole Santa Gertrudis course laid out at Orizaba in Veracruz in 1894 — was the work of Scottish employees at a local jute factory. A dozen more courses had been built by the mid-1920s, including layouts in Guadalajara, Mexico City, Monterrey, Pachuca, Puebla and Tampico.

Another wandering Scot, Alister MacKenzie — best known for designing golf courses at Augusta National and Cypress Point — is also listed as the architect of record for Club Campestre de Tijuana. However, some sources alternatively credit prolific American designer William Bell. What is known definitively is that as part of the Agua Caliente Club property during the Prohibition Era, the course hosted a PGA tournament whose field included golf legends Gene Sarazen, Bobby Jones, Walter Hagen and Horton Smith. Sarazen, the winner, pocketed $25,000.

There’s no doubt regarding the number of courses Percy Clifford designed in Mexico. The esteemed Mexico City native is responsible for at least 40, including memorable loops at Club de Golf México in his hometown; Querétaro Golf Club; Los Tabachines in Cuernavaca, Morelos; and Bajamar in Ensenada, Baja California. As recently as 1980, it was estimated that he was responsible for designing half the courses in the country. He was also an exceptional golfer, winning the National Amateur six times and the National Open five times.

Bucket list holes and experiences

Hole routing along the Pacific Ocean coastline at Quivira Golf Club. (Clint Johnston/Quivira Los Cabos)

No country on earth has more awe-inspiring, one-of-a-kind golf holes than Mexico. The cliffside 17th hole at TPC Danzante Bay is probably the definitive bucket list golf hole and one of the few worldwide worth traveling to see in person. Set just south of Loreto in Baja California Sur, the bunker-wrapped, sheer, cliff-framed green for the 178-yard par-3 gives way to breathtaking panoramic views of the Sea of Cortez and offshore islands of Bahía de Loreto National Park.

“I think most people would agree that the location of the 17th hole at TPC Danzante Bay is one of the most spectacular in the world of golf,” noted course architect Rees Jones rather modestly, after spending seven months on the iconic hole before the course opened in two phases in 2016 and 2017.

The “Whale’s Tail,” a par-3 at Nicklaus’ sublime Pacífico layout at Punta Mita is likewise celebrated, as it showcases the only ocean-based green in the world. The hole isn’t even in the actual routing, and is known colloquially as “3b.” But the 194-yard shot from the blacks is a must-try for visitors. However, if you want to putt, you’ll have to contrive to arrive during low tide, when the green is reachable via a stone pathway that’s usually underwater.

It’s the only ocean island golf hole in the world. The one-of-a-kind par-3 “Tail of the Whale” at Jack Nicklaus’ Pacifico layout at Punta Mita. (Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita)

The Nicklaus-designed Quivira Golf Club is also notable for its magnificent coastal scenery. The par-4 sixth is the most famous, featuring a small rocky outcropping where players can aim for the green, itself jutting out from a cliffside above the crashing Pacific. For those who find the 310-yard tee shot daunting, don’t worry: there’s a comfort food station on the way up the mountain that will provide liquid courage. Or you can hit a safer shot into the fairway and follow it along its sloping route down to the sea. The par-3 14th, meanwhile, also requires a tee shot that risks a lost ball falling hundreds of feet into churning ocean waters below. But at 148 yards, it’s short enough that most golfers should be able to land the shot safely.

Oso and Lobo, two friends who are scratch golfers and have played most of Mexico’s 230 or so courses, consider the question to be one of quality plus amazing settings. They love the holes mentioned above, but other favorites include the 6th and 18th at Tres Vidas, an Acapulco loop from Robert von Hagge; number 2 on the same designer’s Laguna Course, one of three nine-hole layouts at Isla Navidad in Manzanillo; and the ninth hole at El Tamarindo, a David Fleming design also found in the state of Jalisco. It just goes to show that when it comes to lists of the best golf holes, it’s best to make your own.

What to know when planning a Mexican golf trip

Before you start planning the list of the Mexican golf courses you want to play on your next vacation, make sure you have tee-time access. Some golf courses are public, while others are restricted to guests staying at certain resorts. Golf in Mexico is expensive enough — the best resort courses cost $200 and up for greens fees — without factoring in luxurious hotel accommodations.

Besides budgeting, your main concern should be ensuring your itinerary of courses doesn’t include an area covered by a travel advisory from the U.S. State Department. Los Cabos, Mexico City and the Riviera Maya are safe. But Mazatlán, home to several good golf courses including Robert Trent Jones Jr.’s Estrella del Mar, is currently a no-go. Sinaloa, the state where Mazatlán is located, is on the “don’t travel” list, as is Michoacán, where Nicklaus crafted 27 holes at the Tres Marías Residential Golf Club.

So pay attention to these factors. Otherwise, just have fun, hit it straight and enjoy the views.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

A wish list for President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum from our CEO

By

Travis Bembenek

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June 8, 2024

35

President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum — Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek shares his wishlist for President-elect of Mexico, Claudia Sheinbaum. (Cuartoscuro)

To begin with, congratulations are most definitely in order for Mexico’s first female president. ¡Felicidades Presidenta Sheinbaum!

I am excited about Mexico’s future and am hopeful and optimistic that President-elect Sheinbaum will do well in leading the nation. However, I’ve come up with a wish list for her term based on what I think are important issues for the country that she will need to address.

Claudia Sheinbaum and Travis Bembenek — During the presidential campaign, Travis had the opportunity to attend a presentation by Claudia Sheinbaum. (Courtesy)

Be a president for all Mexicans

Make it clear with some initial gestures that you will be the president of all Mexicans. Unfortunately, AMLO’s leadership has been characterized as accelerating the polarization in politics in Mexico. As we have seen in other countries around the world, this is not productive nor healthy for the future of the country. Demonstrate that you will take immediate steps to reduce the polarization in Mexican politics by taking into account important priorities from the opposition candidates.

Make it clear how your leadership will differ from AMLO

On day one, make it clear if and how your leadership and policies will be different than AMLO’s. One of the biggest concerns and complaints from people who disagree with AMLO’s policies is that they think you will be a “puppet of AMLO’s” and not act independently. Be specific in telling us how you will be different.

Be proactive on nearshoring

Recognize the massive opportunity that Mexico has for foreign direct investment (FDI) with the nearshoring trend and make it clear that Mexico is open for business and investment. Understand that the investment is not guaranteed and must be earned with the trust of businesses, entrepreneurs and investors.

Don’t hold on to the “super peso”

Understand that a strong peso — although politically popular — is not necessarily a good thing for Mexico and many Mexicans. Do not link your administration’s success to the strength of the peso.

Make changes to improve security

Take serious, innovative steps towards improving the security situation in the country. Understand that there is nothing holding back Mexico’s potential more than both the perception and unfortunate reality of violence throughout the country.

Make Mexico a leader in renewable energy

Be bold with a vision to make Mexico a world leader in solar power generation and water reuse and recycling technologies. Mexico needs to show strong leadership in these areas and every peso invested here will pay tremendous dividends to future generations of Mexicans. Inspire us with your experience and leadership in this area.

Re-engage with the global community

AMLO wrongly pulled back on participating in global leadership gatherings. Mexico’s voice and leadership on global affairs is more important than ever. Be crystal clear on the strategic importance of a strong free trade agreement in which the US, Canada and Mexico are aligned and cooperating on global trade issues, especially in regards to China.

Address infrastructure gaps

The infrastructure investments made in the southeast during AMLO’s term have been impressive. However, there are still significant infrastructure improvements needed in the north and central parts of the country to accelerate nearshoring investments. Not urgently addressing this will ultimately hurt Mexico’s ability to fully take advantage of this opportunity.

Re-think public companies

Reconsider the role of the Mexican government in areas where private enterprise can help fund and accelerate growth. The state-run companies of CFE and Pemex are unfortunate examples of what can go terribly wrong when the government attempts to run companies. Take a hard look at what can be done to improve these businesses, consider how private investment can help, and reconsider AMLO’s recent moves to have the government involved with building airports, highways and operating Mexicana airlines, etc.

Think big and bold

Inspire confidence from everyone in the country. Surprise your critics with your ability to think and act beyond your political party. Mexico has a historic opportunity given the current geopolitical situation worldwide. It truly is Mexico’s opportunity to shine – but you have to believe it, make all Mexicans believe it and make the world believe it!

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

Taxistas, Baristas and Tailors: Why making connections is easier in Mexico

By

Louisa Rogers

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June 8, 2024

9

An old woman tailor — Creating so called "weak ties" in Mexico provides a valuable sense of community not always found in the rest of the world, explains Louisa Rogers. (María Ruiz)

The manager of Ahorremas, my local food shop in Guanajuato, is a lovely, friendly guy named Oscar. I chatted with him the other day and discovered that he lives an hour away, which makes for a long day, but that he wouldn’t want to move closer because of his family. He also told me that one of his cashiers was a law student at the University of Guanajuato who worked at the shop to help pay her expenses because she came from a poor family. After our conversation, I told the young woman about Brillantes Caminantes, a local nonprofit that provides scholarships to economically marginal students, and she applied for one. Such is the power of making connections in Mexico.

Oscar is what sociologists call a “weak tie,” a term which refers to a friendly connection with someone who is not a close friend–as opposed to a “strong tie,” a family member or friend you know deeply. My husband Barry and I have an abundance of weak ties in Guanajuato, including our seamstress, Perla; my watch repairer, Rodolfo; the guy who fixes appliances at the nearby market, Rogelio; and another guy who created windows for our patio, Armando. When I broke the lid of my crock pot by accidentally dropping it on the kitchen floor, Armando crafted me a new one made of silicon.

Butcher in a market — Everyone you regularly see in Mexico has the potential to become a weak tie, and improve your life. (Tomas Acosta)

We find it particularly easy to make weak ties in Mexico, even with the language and cultural barriers. Whether they’re repair people, small business owners, tailors, baristas or taxi drivers, here are some reasons why we find it easy.

First, Mexicans tend to be friendly and warm. They appreciate efforts at speaking Spanish and are forgiving of errors, so you don’t have to be fluent, although it helps to have at least a few basic phrases, which also shows respect for the culture. I’m fluent, which makes it easier, but Barry is not. Even so, every fall, returning to Guanajuato after spending part of the year in California, he goes to his favorite cafe for the first time in months, and the barista greets him, calling out, “¡Hola, Barry! ¿Cómo estás?” ― as if he’d never been away.

Another reason why it’s easy is that Mexico is filled with solo or family-run small businesses and repair shops. Unlike Americans, Mexicans still repair items rather than replace them, so we frequent repair shops often and interact with the owners. As anywhere, small business owners are likely to be friendlier than cashiers in huge, institutional chain department stores.

Also, Mexicans are often outside and on foot. Studies show it’s easier to form connections outside than in, and it’s obvious why it’s easier to meet another pedestrian in person than in a car. Jessica Finley, a former researcher in the field of Health Geography at the University of Minnesota, found that people feel more comfortable approaching strangers in parks than on city streets. They’re more likely to pet a stranger’s dog, chat with someone sitting on the grass, or exclaim to another person about the beautiful view. In Mexico, all you have to do is take a seat on a bench at your local jardín or zócalo and you’ll find someone to chat with.

Barista at Cafe Tal Guanajuato — Whether a tailor, a grocery store manager or a barista, life in Mexico is just waiting for you to connect. (Cafe Tal/Facebook)

When we do get in a car, like a taxi or Uber, we always enjoy talking to the driver. I usually sit in the front, both because my Spanish is better and because, even with hearing aids, I miss things sitting in the back. We’ve chatted with drivers about their marriages, divorces, kids, if they have a trabajo fijo (day job), and, in one case, even the driver’s vasectomy. “La fábrica está cerrada,” he told us (The factory is closed).

Even weak ties can have a lasting and profound effect on a person. Fifteen years ago, my sister died in New York City. Although I was by her side during her death, I was in Mexico before and after, and one street musician was particularly kind to me. A man with a leathery, time-worn face, Javier was a well-known character around town who would sit on the sidewalk of the pedestrian street below our house, strumming his guitar and singing John Lennon ballads in English. He once told me he lived in a cinder-block structure somewhere on the edge of town, reading Kant in bed until it was too dark to see. When I returned from New York and told him tearfully that my sister had died, he took my hand and gave me a long gentle look with his soulful eyes. I felt cradled by his kindness.

About a year later, Javier disappeared. I kept expecting him to show up again on the street, singing and playing his guitar, but he never did. I still miss him.

Another acquaintance I think a lot about ― a local shopkeeper and owner of a quesadilla joint near our home ― died during COVID-19. His wife, Aracelli, told me when we ran into each other at Ahorremas. Because condolence cards aren’t easily available in Mexico, I wrote her a letter sharing all my memories of her lovely husband, Juan.

While both strong and weak ties are valuable, I never realized how important light, easygoing connections can be until we moved to Guanajuato. Where once I dismissed them as superficial, now I cultivate them with enthusiasm, appreciating how much joy and pleasure they bring to my life.

Louisa Rogers and her husband Barry Evans divide their lives between Guanajuato and Eureka, on California’s North Coast. Louisa writes articles and essays about expat life, Mexico, travel, physical and psychological health, retirement and spirituality. Her recent articles are on her website, https://authory.com/LouisaRogers

The dog days come early: Mexico’s climate crisis

By

Sarah DeVries

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June 8, 2024

15

Sequía El Centenario-3 — Mexico is dry. Really dry. Recent years have seen increasingly long droughts and crippling heatwaves. Sarah Devries gives her thoughts on the new climate reality. (César Gómez/Cuartoscuro)

My partner often compares me to levadura (yeast — specifically, the kind we use to make beer): if the temperature is not exactly to my liking, I simply cannot (or will not) thrive. This heatwave in Mexico has me absolutely beaten.

You might have heard people declare themselves “Team Calor” or “Team Frío,” but I’m neither. Put me in any conditions that aren’t in the range of 19-24 degrees centigrade with a slight breeze and perhaps a bit of refreshing afternoon rain, and I’m 100% complaining about it.

Are the days of comfort long gone?

Five heat waves are expected in Mexico during the first half of 2024, and rainfall is lower than ever. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

I blame the root of my discomfort on the fact that I grew up in a place where every building and dwelling had climate control, and have long theorized that the comforts one enjoyed as a child will always be bitterly missed if taken away later in life.

The absence of climate control where I live hasn’t been an issue. My city, in particular, is well-known for its mild temperatures — not too hot, not too cold — daily afternoon showers and evening fog, perfect for a warm cup of coffee or hot chocolate to go with your pan.

But along with the rest of Mexico, things are changing. Even around this usually drizzly cloud forest, we’ve had forest fires. Forest fires! I’ve never even tried to build a backyard campfire in my city because the wood is forever damp, and now it’s all kindling? Esto no pinta bien.

If you’ve been following the news, you know how dire the situation is: we’ve had heat wave after heat wave hit us over the past two months, and there’s seemingly no end in sight. I check my weather app hopefully and desperately daily, but the 10-day forecast shows only bright, sunny days, all between 30-34 degrees Celcius. And as you can probably guess — and have likely witnessed if you live here — the lack of rain is doing nothing for our water shortage problem. In my city, we’re rationing, so each “zone” gets water pumped to them once every five days.

Water in Xalapa is being rationed to ensure the supply does not run out. (Yerania Rolón/Cuartoscuro)

We’re dirty and our plants are dying

Yikes.

So what’s causing all of this?

It’s true that spring is typically the hottest season of the year, at least in the southern half of the country; this has been true for a long time. Counterintuitively, for most of us who come from north of the Mexican border, summer is the time when it cools down, as it brings the beginning of the rainy season.

But things are different now. I’ve experienced Xalapa during the springtime for 22 years now, and can say this with certainty: the infernal heat (and drought, before unheard of around here) that falls on us each spring is becoming more intense and hanging around much longer than it used to. A week without rain used to be unimaginable. It’s now been two full months.

Much of Mexico is currently trapped in a “heat dome,” which is as miserable as it sounds: the atmospheric pressure is essentially trapping the heat around us (think of it as an extended, cozy snuggle-fest with Satan, or all of being, basically literally, trapped in a boiling pot together). We’ve also got a La Niña cycle at play, which tends to warm things up in general as well.

Oh, and monkeys too

A man in in the jungles of Chiapas feeds water to a howler monkey that's weak and dehydrated from a heat wave in Mexico. — Temperatures in Mexico have been as high as 45 degrees Celsius (113 F) in recent weeks. Howler monkeys have been found dead in the southern rainforests as a result of heat exhaustion. (Cobius/Facebook)

And let’s not forget our own collective contributions: climate change is coming for us all, and is being felt worldwide somewhere between much quicker than the mildly optimistic predictions by climate scientists and slightly slower than the 2004 disaster movie The Day After Tomorrow. Back when they were talking about an increase of 1-3 degrees over the next century, it didn’t sound that dire. We didn’t think about that having actual effects on the weather as it does, preferring instead to imagine someone simply upping the thermostat a couple of imperceptible notches.

Isn’t this the way of humans? Spin our thumbs and whistle while allowing the seeds of our own destruction to be planted, then act shocked when those inevitable fruits arrive?

These are the fruits, people. It’s probably not going to get better at this point, but it can definitely get way, way worse. Are we sufficiently panicked now? Monkeys are dying. Monkeys. In case you forget, we are also, basically, monkeys, and the heat has already come for plenty of us, too.

What to do?

For now, emergency measures: take some cold showers, drink lots and lots of water, be out of the heat as much as you can. If you don’t have air conditioning, as many Mexican homes do not, be strategic about air movement: keep the curtains closed when the sun is beating down, lest you create an oven within an oven of your house. When it cools off at night, open the windows to let a bit of freshness in.

President elect, Claudia Sheinbaum in Xalapa. Does the former climate scientist hold the answers to reducing the impact of climate change on Mexico? (Alberto Roa/Cuartoscuro)

You’ll likely need to do your best to conserve the rationed water, as well. If you wash clothes twice a week, make it once. Try not to flush the toilet more than necessary. You might need to let a few outside plants go if they can’t be brought in and need water every day.

Will our new president, unlike her predecessor, privilege the environment over Mexico’s state-owned electrical company? Will she be the harbinger of a true transformación of Mexico’s energy and conservation strategy?

I sure do hope so.

In the meantime, grab some icepacks and hunker down. We’ve still got a ways to go.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Matryoshkas & Mariachi: The Eastern Europeans of Mexico City

By

Monica Belot

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June 8, 2024

4

Matryoshkas — Mexico City is home to a surprising number of Russian speakers, each with their own stories, skills and hopes for life in the country. (Miriam Oh/Unsplash)

Lately, I’ve been hearing more and more Russian spoken on the multicultural streets of Mexico City. As the American-born daughter of Soviet immigrants, my ears are particularly attuned to the cadence of Russian mingling with Spanish. These newcomers are not tourists, and their presence piques my curiosity. What are they doing here? What are they like? And what has their experience in Mexico been?

There’s an unexpected and somewhat humorous connection between Mexican culture and post-Soviet media. During my childhood, I spent a significant amount of time with my Babushka Maya on weekends and after school. Together, we avidly watched “Гваделупе” (Guadalupe), a Mexican telenovela dubbed into Russian and broadcast on Eastern European TV networks.

It turns out that during the early 1990s, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, underfunded Russian television studios struggling to meet the public’s rapidly growing demand for entertainment began buying licenses for many Latin American telenovelas and dubbing them into Russian as a quick solution. The Russian-speaking public loved it. The drama of the Mexican telenovela resonated with post-Soviet viewers all too familiar with their own domestic trials and tribulations. Beyond this, there are many other fascinating connections between Eastern European and Mexican history.

No Politics, just pierogies in Mexico’s Russian-speaking circles

Screenshot of a Russian chat — The ground rules for a VERY active Russian-language group chat in Mexico, with nearly 6000 members.

Statistics up to 2020 show only a modest number of Russian-speaking immigrants in the area. It was only after the outbreak of the Russia-Ukraine war in the region that we began to see a greater influx of immigrants from both countries, along with a diverse mix of Eastern Europeans from across the former USSR.

Russians, Ukrainians, Armenians, Uzbekistanis, Georgians, Belarussians and more intermingle, coexisting harmoniously in Mexico despite regional conflicts back at home. Some are economic migrants or entrepreneurs seeking new opportunities abroad, while others are refugees fleeing violence and danger. But whether pushed or pulled, they’ve all converged in this unexpected Latin American enclave, forging new lives interconnected by their shared Eastern European heritage. Supportive WhatsApp and Telegram groups of Russian-speakers in Mexico have amassed thousands of active participants, with one important stipulation pinned in the group rules: no discussion of politics.

A century of asylum in Mexico

Mexico has a history of welcoming Soviet dissidents. When Europe and the United States shut them out, Mexico embraced the socialist “undesirables” who fell afoul of the USSR, from Leon Trotsky and his followers to the later internationalist militants who split from Stalin’s “socialism in one country” policy in the 1930s.

Molokane women — Molokane migrants to Mexico in 1947. (Molokane)

Mexico’s neutral stance — enshrined in foreign policy since 1930 — has made it a haven for those fleeing conflict. This doctrine advocates for non-intervention in external geopolitical issues, allowing Mexico to remain neutral in most international disputes. Mexico’s neutrality helped the country play a crucial role in mediating a solution to the Cuban Missile Crisis in 1962, the closest the United States and Soviet Union ever came to nuclear war. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, many highly educated Russian immigrants — including scientists, mathematicians, chemists, and physicists — were warmly received in Mexico, taking up positions in various research institutions.

Today, many Russians have come to Mexico to escape mandatory conscription and an authoritarian regime, while Ukrainians are fleeing the direct dangers of war.

Slavs in Mexico: Traditionalists or assimilators?

Ukrainian immigrant Nastya Krivets. (Monica Belot)

In conversations with several interviewees and reading through group chat conversations, it became clear that two contrasting mentalities towards life in Mexico have emerged within the Eastern European community: those who cling tightly to their own communities and those who embrace their new surroundings.

Those who remain firmly ensconced in their familiar cultural bubble often perceive Mexico as unsafe. They frequently express nostalgia for their homeland, reminiscing about the life they left behind, complaining about the country’s shortcomings and viewing themselves as separate from the broader Mexican community.

On the other hand, there is an equally prominent set who enthusiastically immerse themselves and celebrate transcultural mingling. This group enjoys embracing Mexican culture and life, quickly picking up the Spanish language. Nastya Krivets, a Ukrainian brand and web designer, embodies this mindset. “My assignment here is to integrate. Not all of the Slavs have that mentality,” she explains. Nastya prefers making international friends through multi-cultural business and networking events rather than seeking out her compatriots.

Despite these differences, Eastern Europeans in Mexico City know how to enjoy life, whether they stick to their own communities or branch out. The community hosts a variety of events, from underground dance clubs to women’s brunch groups and cooking get-togethers. These gatherings often highlight their knack for turning any occasion into a celebration. It’s not uncommon for a dance party to spontaneously erupt, fueled by music from a phone speaker and the enthusiasm of just a few friends in someone’s living room.

Sunshine and smiles

Russian immigrant Egor Nekrasov, pictured in Condesa. (Monica Belot)

What draws these immigrants to Mexico? Beyond the straightforward immigration process and potential for political asylum, it’s many of the same things that captivate us all: the beautiful weather, the food and the warmth of the Mexican people.

Mexican friendliness contrasts sharply with Eastern Europeans’ often reserved demeanor. Egor Nekrasov, a Russian interviewee, hypothesizes that during the Soviet era, looking too happy could provoke suspicion from authorities. Nastya adds that people of the region are often wary of insincere smiles, making Mexico’s genuine warmth especially appealing.

Then there’s the food. While Russian cuisine has its delights, both Nastya and I agree that it never quite reached the heights of other global cuisines. This stagnation is likely due to the Soviet Union’s restrictive environment and decades of economic hardship, which stifled culinary innovation. In contrast, Mexico offers a vibrant food scene that offers a stark departure from the often simpler, heartier fare of Eastern Europe.

Eastern European ingenuity meets Mexican opportunity

Russian Entrepreneurs Vadim & Igor of Sobaka Pizzeria. (Monica Belot)

Beyond the cultural draws, Mexico offers fertile ground for business opportunity, which allows the post-Soviet spirit of ingenuity — often born of necessity — to thrive. Egor Nekrasov expresses his admiration for his compatriots: “I see them around the world and I’m impressed.” He says. “They know how to hustle, they know how to make money and survive under the most adverse conditions. They’re like sharks. They try everything.” Egor himself embodies this ethos, juggling an array of hustles from tutoring to bartending to curating vintage pop-up events around the city for his brand Chinaski Vintage.

In Roma Sur, Russian entrepreneurs Igor and Vadim exemplify the scrappy entrepreneurial spirit. A former restaurateur and classical pianist, respectively, Igor and Vadim recently launched Sobaka Pizzeria. After finding a small space and remodeling it themselves, the two bought a portable personal-sized pizza oven and now serve the community with Sobaka’s fresh, simple menu. The pair have found it significantly easier to launch and sustain a small business in Mexico than in Russia.

Entrepreneurial stories like this are plentiful. Egor jokes about a friend who bought an enormous quantity of coffee beans and is now hustling to sell them around town. These stories reflect the dynamic and enterprising nature of the community in Mexico City.

Slavic businesses to check out in Mexico City

Some other Eastern European businesses in the capital include:

Boris Delicatessen: A hidden gem located next to the Russian Embassy, this store offers a variety of Eastern European goods, from matryoshka dolls to canned and deli specialties, including frozen vareniki.
Kolobok Restaurant: Established in 2001, this popular spot now boasts multiple locations in Nápoles, Santa María la Ribera, Polanco and Escandón. It offers a wide variety of Slavic and Baltic dishes including borscht, vareniki, shuba and sweet syrniki.
Escuela de Idioma y Cultura Rusa: This Russian school in Mexico City offers classes, courses and workshops on Russia, its people and its language.
Le Beauty Studio: Ukrainian-owned, this studio exemplifies Slavic beauty expertise. “Slavic beauty masters are renowned worldwide,” says Nastya Krivets. “The beauty standards are so high that you can always expect exceptional service.”

“Contrary to stereotypes, it takes more than a couple of shots of strong vodka to get Slavs to open up and bond,” says Egor Nekrasov. But once you’re in, you’re in for a fascinating and lively adventure. To be sure, as the Eastern European influence continues to blend in with the warm cultural fabric of Mexico, its contribution promises to be an exceedingly interesting one over time.

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.

Historic steam locomotive ‘The Empress’ arrives in Mexico City

By

MND Staff

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June 7, 2024

3

Bystanders gather to watch the passage of the Empress, a black steam locomotive, through Tula de Allende, Hidalgo, on its way to Mexico City. — Bystanders gather to watch the passage of the Empress through Tula de Allende, Hidalgo. (Francisco Villeda/Cuartoscuro)

A large crowd turned out in Mexico City on Friday to see Canadian Pacific 2816, a steam locomotive known as the “Empress” that has just completed a lengthy journey to the Mexican capital from Calgary, Canada.

Built by Montreal Locomotive Works for the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1930, the 4-6-4 Hudson-type steam locomotive and its carriages departed Calgary on April 24 on its “Final Spike Anniversary Steam Tour,” a journey that “serves as a reminder of our past and a celebration of our future,” according to Keith Creel, President and CEO of Canadian Pacific Kansas City (CPKC).

An old-fashioned black steam locomotive known as "The Empress." — Canadian Pacific 2816, the steam locomotive known as “The Empress.” (Wikipedia)

The tour celebrates the first anniversary of the merger of Canadian Pacific and Kansas City Southern.

“Our combination on April 14, 2023, brought together two railroads with long and proud histories that together created the first and only railroad network connecting North America,” Creel said in January when the schedule for the Final Spike tour was announced.

Before reaching Mexico City, the “Empress” made stops in Canadian and United States cities, and in Monterrey, Nuevo León.

At all the stops members of the public had the opportunity to see CP 2816 up close and learn about the locomotive and the history of Canadian Pacific and Kansas City Southern.

Ramón Andrade García dressed as Harry Potter for a photo shoot in front of the historic steam locomotive known as The Empress. — Ramón Andrade García dressed as Harry Potter for a photo shoot in front of the historic train. (Ramón Andrade García)

One person who went to see the almost 100-year old locomotive in the Nuevo León capital was Ramón Andrade García. He attracted attention because he dressed up as Harry Potter for a photo shoot in front of the steam-locomotive-led train, which resembles the Hogwarts Express.

A tragic accident

On its way to the capital, the “Empress” was involved in a tragic accident when a 29-year-old woman got too close to the tracks and was hit and killed by one of the locomotive’s pistons as she was taking a selfie. The accident occurred as the train passed through the municipality of Nopala de Villagrán, Hidalgo.

In Mexico City, the “Empress” stopped in the Miguel Hidalgo borough on Friday, where hundreds of people came out to admire the locomotive and its adjoined carriages.

At nearly 100 years old, the Empress keeps chugging along

The locomotive pulled passenger trains for 30 years through the 1930s, 40s and 50s before its retirement in 1960. It was subsequently put on display at Steamtown U.S.A, a steam locomotive museum that ran excursions between New Hampshire and Vermont.

Canadian Pacific reacquired the train engine in the late 1990s and put it back into service in 2001 as part of the company’s steam program.

Having reached its final destination in Mexico, the “Empress” will now return to Canada in what appears will be its final journey.

The last “event stop” of the Final Spike tour is July 6 in Winnipeg, the capital of the province of Manitoba. The locomotive will arrive in Calgary on July 10.

With reports from Excélsior, El País and Expansión