The people of Santiago Xalitzintla keep Popocatépetl from erupting with chants and Indigenous prayers that blend native tradition with Catholic motifs. (Hilda Ríos/Cuartoscuro)
Two volcanoes crown Mexico City:Popocatépetl and its sleeping lover, Iztaccíhuatl. Their loving gaze sometimes makes us forget that they are two terrifying colossi, harboring fire and fury. As Mexicans from the central region of the country, we’re very used to seeing them guarding the capital — when the smog allows it, of course.
None of this would be possible, according to local folk stories, if it were not for the villagers of Santiago Xalitzintla in the central state of Puebla, who were entrusted with keeping Popocatépetl calm. Who are they? And how do they ensure that the volcano won’t erupt in anger?
The volcano’s legendary guardians
With roughly 2,000 inhabitants, Santiago Xalitzintla is a small town with a big responsibility, including preparing the volcano’s favorite dish. (Hilda Ríos/Cuartoscuro)
Nestled near the volcano’s crater, Santiago Xalitzintla is a town of just over 2,000 inhabitants, according to the most recentINEGI census. Belonging to the municipality of San Nicolás de los Ranchos, in the central state of Puebla.
The inhabitants live at an average altitude of approximately 2,560 to 2,626 meters above sea level (masl), and the Popocatépetl crater is about 12 kilometers away. Mexico City, by contrast, is only at 2,240 masl.
Pronounced “Shalitzintla,” it is historically the village of the guardians who calm the raging colossus. Thanks to the shamans who live there, says the local legend, the volcano remains calm.
These guardians, though legendary, are indeed real people. In Santiago Xalitzintla, volcanologists and civil protection specialists regularly conduct “field visits aimed at documenting daily practices of forest care and response to wildfires,” according torecords from the Department of Social Anthropology at the Universidad Iberoamericana in Mexico City.
The people of Santiago Xalitzintla are resilient: in addition to facing a semi-cold climate for much of the year — given the altitude — they deal with intense summer rains and the risk of frost in winter. And not only that. Despite the real risks of living in the jaws of the volcano, they have repeatedly refused to abandon the town, even in the face of its furious activity.
The last serious alert was in May 2023, when “Don Goyo” (as the volcano is affectionately known) began to spew “gas, water vapor, ash and igneous rocks.” Even that, however, wasn’t enough to prompt the residents to leave their hometown.
How dangerous is the Popocatépetl volcano, exactly?
Popocatépetl can be seen from more than 100 kilometers away, including in Mexico City, given clear conditions. The smoke, water vapor, ash and gases it often expels are a constant reminder of the power it still possesses. (SchneidIt/Wikimedia Commons)
To better understand the morphology, history and hazards of the Popocatépetl volcano, MND spoke to volcanologistHugo Delgado Granados, from the Institute of Geophysics at UNAM. A specialist in volcanic hazard and risk assessment, he has dedicated years to monitoring volcanic emissions.
Dr. Delgado began his scientific research in 1983. After years of studying the volcano, he knows that its most ancient rocks are 538 million years old. However, he said in an interview, the volcano is older than that: “This volcano is actually a volcanic complex made up of four volcanoes that have been created and destroyed: Tlamacas Volcano, Nexpayantla Volcano, Ventorrillo Volcano, El Fraile Volcano and Popocatépetl itself, which is the current volcano,” the specialist told MND.
Probabilities for violent eruptions
The last violent eruption, according to records from the Institute of Geophysics, happened more than 1,300 years ago, “and a similar eruption could happen again in the future, but not in the near future,” Delgado clarifies.
Regarding how dangerous the volcano still is, Delgado defers to probability: “In the case of Popocatépetl, low-magnitude eruptions are the most likely.” In that sense, the specialist explains, “Yes, it is a dangerous volcano because it is highly likely to develop low-magnitude eruptions.”
He notes, however, that the real risk lies in how great a population could be affected by the volcanic activity. “Volcanoes like Popocatépetl can pose a high risk at any given time, particularly if they affect infrastructure rather than the population.”
The specialist explained how, in the past, fumaroles and other emissions from Popocatépetl have forced authorities to close airports, “resulting in significant costs due to disruptions to air travel”. Which is to say, “Popocatépetl is a hazardous volcano, yes, but with low risk, as long as it remains at its current eruptive magnitude level.”
The climate and the imminent danger of living near the jaws of Popocatépetl are some of the challenges faced by the inhabitants of Santiago Xalintzintla. (Hilda Ríos/Cuartoscuro)
Meaning, it’s “not necessarily a threat to the safety of the population.”
Those who celebrate the birthday of ‘Don Goyo’
Every year, the townspeople at Santiago Xalitzintla celebrate Popocatépetl’s birthday on March 12. This is a special day for the community, as it coincides with the feast day of Saint Gregory the Great. On this day, the inhabitants climb the volcano with offerings, food and flowers to ask “Don Goyo” for peace and a good harvest.
In addition to the traditional offerings made to the volcano (which blend elements of local Indigenous tradition with Catholic customs), they sing “Las Mañanitas” to the volcano and prepare mole with rice, supposedly Popocatépetl’s favorite dish.
So yes, in addition to the complex monitoring system designed by UNAM and the National Center for the Prevention of Disasters (Cenapred), the residents of Santiago Xalitzintla are keeping a close eye on the volcano. Just as the authorities established 13 monitoring stations that transmit real-time data on events recorded by the sensors to Mexico City, the residents are closely watching the spirit of the volcano, which they refer to as “Gregorio Chino Popocatépetl.”
Birthday festivals and events for the volcano
According to legend, “an elderly man appeared on the slopes of the volcano” who shared the same name. This figure was the personification of the volcano’s spirit, and he manifested himself to warn the inhabitants when Popocatépetl was active.
On March 13 and 14, the town of Santiago Xalitzintla will host a festival featuring music, dance, gastronomy and crafts. The Santiago Xalitzintla auxiliary council, in collaboration with the municipal government, is organizing the event, which “seeks to pay homage to Popocatépetl, a symbol of strength, history and deep-rooted tradition for the surrounding communities,” asdescribed by the local authorities. Only in this way, according to oral tradition in the village, can the spirit of “Don Goyo” be at peace — although sometimes he gets annoyed and exhales powerful plumes of smoke.
Andrea Fischer contributes to the features desk at Mexico News Daily. She has edited and written for National Geographic en Español and Muy Interesante México, and continues to be an advocate for anything that screams science. Or yoga. Or both.
Julián Quiñones joins his teammates in celebration after he scored Mexico's first goal in a 2-0 win over South Africa in the World Cup opener in Mexico City. (Edgar Negrete Lira / Cuartoscuro.com)
Mexico’s long-awaited World Cup homecoming began with a win — and, just as importantly, with a statement.
Under a bright midday sun and a wall of green Thursday at Estadio Azteca, El Tri opened the first 48‑team World Cup with a resounding 2-0 victory over South Africa, easing some of the pressure on a team and a country desperate to make the most of playing on home turf.
Veteran striker Raúl Jiménez headed in Mexico’s second goal in the 67th minute, his 42nd lifetime goal for El Tri but first in World Cup competition. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)
With temperatures around 24 degrees Celsius (75 Fahrenheit), Mexico dominated from the start, feeding off the noise of more than 80,000 fans and pinning Bafana Bafana (the South Africa team) deep in its own half.
The first goal came inside nine minutes, when South African midfielder Sphephelo “Yaya” Sithole gave the ball away in a dangerous area.
Colombian-born Julián Quiñones, who became eligible for Mexico after naturalizing while playing in Liga MX, pounced and drove a low shot through the goalkeeper’s legs to make it 1-0.
The 29-year-old forward, now with Al‑Qadsiah in Saudi Arabia after leaving Club América in 2024, arrived as the Saudi Pro League’s top scorer with 33 goals in 31 games last season.
Mexico carved out a series of chances before halftime, including a shot that clanged off the right post, but the score remained 1-0.
Four minutes into the second half, Sithole was shown a red card for hauling down a Mexican player, putting South Africa a man down. The 61st-ranked visitors already had their hands full against 13th‑ranked Mexico.
The second goal arrived in the 67th minute, with veteran striker Raúl Jiménez heading in the ball from close range. He then pointed to the sky with tears in his eyes after notching his first World Cup goal, having gone scoreless in six matches across the 2014, 2018 and 2022 tournaments.
It was his 46th for Mexico’s senior national team, putting the 35-year-old six short of Javier “Chicharito” Hernández’s all‑time mark of 52.
South Africa’s chances soured further when Themba Zwane was sent off for striking a Mexican player in the face, leaving Bafana Bafana with only nine players. Later, Mexico’s César Montes was also dismissed, making this the first World Cup opener ever to feature three red cards.
Mexico gave teenager Gilberto Mora his World Cup debut in the 66th minute. At 17 years, 240 days, he became the youngest Mexican man ever to appear at a World Cup and the sixth youngest ever (behind No. 5 Pelé).
With the victory, Javier Aguirre, in his third stint as head coach of El Tri, has run his current unbeaten streak to nine matches. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)
Mexico’s starting goalkeeper was Raúl Rangel, 26, signaling a move toward the future. Guillermo “Memo” Ochoa, 41, is on Mexico’s World Cup roster for a record sixth time, but he watched from the bench.
Sharing the hosting duties with the United States and Canada, Mexico is staging the men’s World Cup for a record third time, after 1970 and 1986.
This is the first World Cup with 48 teams, split into 12 groups of four. The top two in every group, plus the eight best third‑place teams, advance to the newly formed Round of 32.
El Tri returns to action against South Korea in Guadalajara on June 18 and is back at Azteca on June 24 against Czechia. There will also be games in Monterrey, but El Tri won’t play there.
If Mexico wins the group, it could potentially remain in the country for knockout games in the next two rounds.
South Africa is playing in its first World Cup since it hosted in 2010, when its own opening game was a 1-1 draw against Mexico in Johannesburg. It has suffered three straight group-stage exits.
The game marked Mexico’s first win in a World Cup opener, after previously losing five and drawing two. It extended its current run under third-time head coach Javier “Vasco” Aguirre to seven wins and two draws in nine matches.
Mexico showed up throughout the capital on Thursday for their team. (Photo by Tom Buckley)
Cheers cascaded across all 16 Mexico City boroughs and echoed off buildings surrounding neighborhood parks as El Tri cruised to a 2-0 victory over South Africa in the Inaugural Match of the 2026 World Cup.
Capitalinos — including President Claudia Sheinbaum and Mayor Clara Brugada — crowded into the 18 free Fan Fest sites across the city to watch Javier Aguirre’s team kick off the tournament, erupting in glee just nine minutes into the match when Julián Quiñones drilled a low shot through the legs of South African goalie Ronwen Williams.
🚨 “¡GOOOOOOOL!”: Claudia Sheinbaum celebra el primer gol de #México ante Sudáfrica en el Mundial 2026.
— Luis Alberto Medina (@elalbertomedina) June 11, 2026
The euphoria was doubled in minute 67 when Raúl Jiménez, all alone at the back post, nodded home a spot-on cross from Roberto Alvarado to make it 2-0.
The victory capped off a day that started before dawn for some fans, hundreds of whom lined up outside the barricades in the Centro Histórico as early as 3 a.m. to gain entry to the FIFA Fan Fest in the Zócalo.
By 8:30 — a full hour before security opened the gates — there were nearly 15,000 Team Mexico supporters, most sporting El Tri jerseys, waiting patiently in line. A half-hour before 1 p.m. kick-off, the Zócalo had reached its capacity of 40,000 and police were forced to direct late arrivals toward the Fan Fest in Plaza Garibaldi about 2 kilometers to the north.
Hours before the inaugural ceremonies began at Estadio Azteca, fans were in a convivial mood at the Parque Las Americas in the Benito Juárez borough south of downtown. A city official told Mexico News Daily that people started arriving and settling into seats in the northeast corner of the 5-hectare park (12 acres) before 8:30, a full 4 ½ hours before kickoff.
While a small group of kids played soccer on the sidewalk and scads of dog-owners walked their pets — many clad in Mexico jerseys — Sofia Stainer and her band took the stage to warm up a crowd that needed little priming.
The 600 or so colonia Narvarte residents were in a jovial mood, city officials occasionally producing more chairs as the viewing area — positioned under a giant tarp on the basketball court in front of a massive screen — began to fill up.
While the media (rightfully) focused on the security measures in place around the stadium and in the Centro Histórico (where thousands of striking teachers had set up encampments), there was virtually no police presence at the Parque Las Americas, nor was one needed.
Just under 1,000 Narvarte residents attended the Parque Las Americas Fan Fest on Thursday in Mexico City. (Photo by Tom Buckley)
When Oaxaca singer-songwriter Lila Downs finally started the pre-game show at the stadium at 11:40, the nervous anticipation turned into exhilaration. The Narvarte crowd erupted in cheers and the cheers only grew louder when she was followed to the midfield stage by Maná, a best-selling group from Guadalajara. In unison, fans young and old sang along to the band’s 1992 smash hit “Oye Mi Amor.”
For her part, President Sheinbaum watched the inaugural day’s events at the Fan Fest located in the Deportivo Hermanos Galeana in the Gustavo A. Madero borough — about 11 kilometers north of the National Palace.
Sitting next to the mayor in the front row, Sheinbaum leaped out of her chair when Jiménez scored, raised both arms in celebration, hugged Brugada and proudly waved a Mexican flag as the crowd around her cheered.
Earlier, Mexico fans had already started gathering at the iconic Angel of Independence Monument on Reforma Avenue, the traditional spot where Mexicans go to cheer sporting triumphs.
Although not an official Fan Fest site, big screens were set up at the monument, attracting large crowds to the roundabout. Before the game had ended — with Mexico leading comfortably — thousands more had gathered, more than 20,000 eventually reveling and frolicking in the rain while chanting “¡México, México, México!”
The World Cup is finally underway and while El Tri will rest up to prepare for their second match (against South Korea in Guadalajara on June 18), capitalinos — and Mexicans across the country — were expected to celebrate long into Thursday night.
Opening day of the World Cup dominated the atmosphere and the president lent some perspective to it by reminding the press of the Social World Cup program that had given away more than 500 game tickets to deserving "ordinary" (i.e. non-government) Mexicans. (Andrea Murcia / Cuartoscuro.com)
Sheinbaum’s mañanera in 60 seconds
⚽ The Social World Cup for ordinary citizens: As Mexico kicked off its third FIFA World Cup hosting stint Thursday, the president brought up the Social World Cup program, noting that it had received little publicity with so much other activity taking place. Through the program, some 500 tickets were distributed exclusively to ordinary citizens — not public officials.
🍎 A shift in strategy in dealing with striking teachers: As protesting teachers caused roads around the city to be shut down and threatened to block the Zócalo World Cup Fan Fest themselves, Sheinbaum announced that her government will bypass negotiations with the dissident CNTE union’s leadership and instead consult with over 1 million teachers directly, school by school, beginning in August.
🕯️ Mothers of the disappeared: Interior Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez spoke of the previous night’s march by families of missing persons and their supporters, revealing that the government is investigating how some Jalisco participants were bused in. She stressed, however, that the families’ grievances are legitimate.
🤝 USMCA on the table: Sheinbaum rejected the idea of replacing the trilateral USMCA with multiple bilateral agreements, calling the pact one of U.S. President Trump’s “great achievements” from his first term and arguing that a strong North America is better placed to compete with China.
Why today’s mañanera matters
Thursday morning’s press conference was unlike any other in recent memory. With the opening ceremony of the 2026 FIFA World Cup set to take take place just a few hours later and only some 15 kilometers away, the president’s briefing was delivered in the context of a capital city distracted by World Cup fever.
Which is not to say there weren’t serious issues to discuss. For one thing, the dissident CNTE teachers’ union had spent the week staging marches near the Estadio Azteca (Mexico City Stadium) in an open attempt to disrupt smooth logistics operations.
Against that charged backdrop, Sheinbaum used the mañanera to signal a major shift in how her government plans to handle the CNTE standoff, while also defending the USMCA trade deal and addressing the government’s handling of protesters from the families of the disappeared.
The World Cup, and who gets to go
The government used Thursday’s conference to call attention to the Social World Cup, a government program dedicated to bringing the tournament’s social benefits beyond the stadiums. Officials from the Education Ministry and IMSS reported that more than 1.2 million youths participated in community work to rehabilitate 4,150 sports courts nationwide, and that 6,004 murals were painted across the country.
Some 500 World Cup tickets allocated to the federal government were distributed entirely to citizens — not a single ticket went to a government employee. Winners included students, artisans, senior soccer players and children with Down syndrome who competed in specially organized tournaments.
One standout was Estrella, a student from a SETI vocational high school in Tamaulipas and daughter of a single maquiladora worker, who won first place at a 2025 international science and technology competition in Chile and was selected to do the opening coin toss at the inaugural match, as was later seen by millions of viewers.
“We decided that no tickets would go to public officials — they all had to go to the people,” Sheinbaum said.
CNTE conflict: Going around the union
The most politically significant announcement of the morning had to do with the teachers’ union standoff, which has threatened to disrupt the World Cup festivities as union teachers stage disruptive protests in Mexico City. Education Minister Mario Delgado said the government held a fourth consecutive round of talks Wednesday with the CNTE — the National Coordination of Education Workers — over two core demands: abolition of the teacher career evaluation unit (Usicamm) and a pension overhaul. After hours of negotiations, the CNTE announced it would march near the stadium anyway.
Sheinbaum responded by announcing she would sidestep the union leadership. Starting in August, during the pre-semester week that teachers use to prepare for the new school year, the government will consult every teacher in Mexico directly — school by school.
“The teachers should decide,” she said. “Not just a union leadership, but the teachers themselves.”
“We’re going to go directly to the teachers to tell them what we are doing, without any intermediaries,” she said, but acknowledged that many teachers will still have union representation through the SNTE, a teachers union older and bigger than the CNTE.
On pensions, Sheinbaum rejected the CNTE’s call to simply repeal the 2007 ISSSTE reform ISSSTE head Mario Batres added that the government had come to every meeting with detailed proposals, while the CNTE “never presented a counterproposal.”
Education Minister Mario Delgado took the podium and questioned whether the CNTE’s actions were more political than labor-related. (Andrea Murcia / Cuartoscuro.com)
For that reason, Delgado suggested that the CNTE’s actions are not in the interests of its members. “It’s more a political interest driving them right now,” he said, referring specifically to the decision to protest near the Estadio Azteca on the day of the World Cup inauguration. “It’s an attempt to damage Mexico’s image internationally.”
Families of the disappeared march
Interior Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez came to the podium and reported on two separate protests that took place in Mexico City on Wednesday evening. A march by roughly 2,000 people commemorating the 1971 Halconazo massacre passed without incident. A second, nighttime mobilization brought together hundreds of mothers and families of disappeared persons, accompanied by search collectives.
Rodríguez said federal officials from the National Search Commission and the Executive Commission for Victim Attention were present throughout the march. She expressed solidarity with the families, but noted that some participants from Jalisco had arrived on organized buses, and said authorities were investigating who paid for the transportation.
“We have respect and solidarity for the mothers and searching families,” Rodríguez said. “[But] we are also gathering information to determine the origin of any financial support and whether there was any intention beyond the legitimate demand for justice that the families are leading.”
Interior Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez reiterated her support for the families of disappeared persons, but had questions about the financing of the bus transportation that brought people to Mexico City from Jalisco. (Andrea Murcia / Cuartoscuro.com)
Sheinbaum, asked directly whether she suspected a specific political actor was financing transportation, said the government had only confirmed that people from Jalisco arrived by bus, stressing that the information was preliminary and did not delegitimize the families’ cause.
Sheinbaum on USMCA: ‘I believe the treaty will hold’
The president argued that the treaty benefits all three countries equally, pointing to the spike in U.S. vehicle prices as evidence that tariffs on Mexico had backfired. She also reminded reporters that Trump himself negotiated the USMCA in his first term. “It is one of his great achievements,” she said.
She pointed out that Trump’s negative comments this week had been made before, choosing as an ironic example Trump’s statement that the USMCA is better than NAFTA was. “That’s something we agree with,” she said.
Her conclusion? “We believe the USMCA will hold,” she said flatly.
Portions of this story were drafted with assistance from Claude. The article has been revised and fact-checked by a Mexico News Daily staff editor.
Guadalajara fans cheer on Mexico in the downtown Plaza Liberación Fan Festival. (Charlotte Smith)
It didn’t matter to anyone gathered at Plaza Liberación today that they weren’t inside Mexico City Stadium watching the 2026 World Cup’s inaugural match with their own eyes. To the tens of thousands of supporters packed shoulder-to-shoulder beneath Guadalajara’s sky, they had front-row seats to the most beautiful game of their lives.
Long before kickoff, the heart of Guadalajara had transformed into a celebration of football and Mexican culture.
Members of the World Cup Organizing Committee inspected the Fan Festival facilities at Plaza Liberación in downtown Guadalajara two days before the competition’s inaugural match.(Fernando Carranza García / Cuartoscuro.com)
As part of the official FIFA Fan Festival, Plaza Liberación came alive hours before the match began. Musicians performed on stage, traditional dancers entertained crowds gathered throughout the square, and supporters from across Mexico and around the world filled the historic center.
Families arrived draped in Mexican flags, friends painted their faces in national colors, and chants broke out spontaneously as anticipation built toward kickoff.
By match time, every available space in front of the giant screens had been claimed. Fans stood shoulder-to-shoulder in the shadow of Guadalajara Cathedral, creating an atmosphere that felt far closer to a packed stadium than a public plaza.
And then it was time! The opening match of FIFA World Cup 2026, and Mexico was its star.
The energy was already electric as Mexico and South Africa entered the pitch, but it reached another level just eight minutes into the game.
Raúl Jiménez scored Mexico’s opening goal of the tournament, and Plaza Liberación erupted. A deafening roar swept across the square as strangers embraced and fans jumped into one another’s arms.
Massive Mexican flags waved above the crowd as celebrations soared, and the sound echoed through downtown Guadalajara, bouncing off the surrounding historic buildings, and for several unforgettable moments the city seemed to shake.
Every attack afterward brought forward chants of “¡México! ¡México!” Every dangerous chance drew gasps from the crowd. Every defensive stop was met with thunderous applause.
Though the action was unfolding miles away, nobody in Plaza Liberación felt removed from the moment. They weren’t simply watching the World Cup; they were living it.
And when the final whistle sounded on Mexico’s 2-0 victory, the celebrations began all over again.
Tens of thousands of fans braved long lines to experience Mexico’s first win of the 2026 World Cup at Guadalajara’s Plaza Liberación Fan Festival. (Charlotte Smith)
What had started as anticipation in the morning had turned into jubilation by afternoon, with fans savoring both a winning start to the tournament and a day they will remember long after the World Cup 2026 is over.
Today’s gathering marked a major milestone for Guadalajara, one of three Mexican host cities for the 2026 FIFA World Cup. While matches will be played at Estadio Akron during the tournament, the first being South Korea vs. Czechia later this evening, Plaza Liberación has become the beating heart of the city’s fan celebrations, serving as the centerpiece of the official FIFA Fan Festival.
City officials and organizers have emphasized that Guadalajara’s role in the World Cup extends beyond hosting matches. The goal is to showcase the region’s culture, hospitality, traditions, and passion for football to a global audience.
Judging by the scenes on opening day, residents have enthusiastically embraced that mission.
With weeks of competition still ahead, today’s scenes at Plaza Liberación offered a glimpse of what promises to be an unforgettable World Cup summer in Guadalajara.
For one afternoon, the historic square became more than a public gathering place. It became a stadium without walls, a festival without limits, and the emotional center of a football-mad nation welcoming the world.
Charlotte Smith is a writer and journalist based in Mexico. Her work focuses on travel, politics, and community. You can follow along with her travel stories at www.salsaandserendipity.com.
The magnificent "Woven Sky" canopy is not only a pleasing work of art combining traditional Mexican and World Cup motifs, but also a source of shade for strollers and outdoor diners along one of the greater Guadalajara area's more popular pedestrian walkways, as well as a tourist attraction. (Fernando Carranza García / Cuartoscuro.com)
A massive and colorful hand-embroidered canopy has been installed over a pedestrian street in the municipality of Zapopan in the urban area of Guadalajara, Jalisco, as part of the host city’s World Cup decorations.
Dubbed the “Woven Sky,” the monumental installation extends over 220 meters of the pedestrian corridor of Andador 20 de Noviembre in Zapopan’s historic center, from the Arches of Zapopan to the entrance of the main square.
Lo que se hizo en Zapopan merece reconocimiento. Más de 250 mujeres de Etzatlán tejieron una obra monumental que hoy luce rumbo al Mundial 2026. Trabajo, talento, identidad y tradición mexicana. Quedó espectacular. Felicidades a quienes hicieron posible este proyecto. pic.twitter.com/TK8Luwhxkn
— José Ramón Fernández (@joserra_espn) June 10, 2026
Made of 1,400 kilometers of thread, the canopy honors the seven national teams that will play at the local Estadio Akron (named Estadio Guadalajara during the tournament) with motifs and colors from the flags of Colombia, South Korea, Uruguay, Spain, Czech Republic, Democratic Republic of Congo, and Mexico.
The crochet design features an Aztec serpent that travels along the pedestrian walkway shedding its skin as it passes the totems of each country. Each tree-like totem is covered in even more colorful hexagons, evoking the connection between heaven and earth.
Beyond serving as a decorative element, the Woven Sky provides shade for pedestrians and those sitting on the terraces of the cafes and restaurants that line the street.
The magnificent canopy is the work of over 200 women artisans from the Etzatlán Weavers Association, a group of artisans from the nearby town of Etzatlán, who in 2019 broke the Guinness World Record for the largest crochet canopy.
Following the women’s collective receiving the Guinness World Record, Zapopan has decorated the Andador 20 de Noviembre with various canopies several times to showcase Jalisco’s diverse cultural expressions.
The canopy has become a tourist hotspot ahead of the tournament, with families traveling from neighboring states to see the display.
Security forces have taken control over major streets near Estadio Azteca on Thursday, including the Calzada de Tlalpan shown here, controlling access and preparing to deal with any contingency that may occur in the vicinity of the stadium. (Estrella Josanto / Cuartoscuro.com)
While Mexico City was in the grip of World Cup fever on Thursday morning, security forces were busy working to contain protests and demonstrations near the stadium and elsewhere.
The inaugural match featuring El Tri was set to begin at 1 p.m. but would be preceded by a two-hour concert featuring Maná, Lila Downs, Shakira and Burna Boy. City and federal officials have been on high alert for any contingency that may occur in the vicinity of the stadium.
Problematic marches that started the night before the World Cup opener were renewed Thursday, in this case by supporters of the families of the disappeared, who marched up streets from the south toward the stadium. (Alberto Roa / Cuartoscuro.com)
Capital police had set up checkpoints and traffic control measures near the venue earlier in the week and city officials issued advisories for motorists and commuters, offering alternate routes around the chaos expected in southern Mexico City as 80,000 fans descended on Estadio Azteca (re-dubbed Mexico City Stadium for the duration of the World Cup).
Mexico City International Airport (AICM) authorities on Thursday warned travelers to get to the terminal early for departing flights as striking teachers had been demonstrating on highways nearby and blocking two Metro stations in the vicinity. Access to the airport grounds was being heavily restricted — only travelers with valid boarding passes and employees were being permitted to enter.
The teachers — members of the dissident CNTE union — have announced plans to disrupt major events on Thursday, including the opening match. Throughout the week, they have blockaded major highways and downtown intersections and federal government buildings, while negotiations aimed at halting the strike have stalled
On Wednesday night, security forces prevented a march staged by search collectives seeking to publicize the plight of mothers looking for members of their families who have disappeared from reaching the stadium. The protesters — calling Mexico the World Champion of Disappearances — began another march toward the stadium early Thursday.
Around 200 officers with riot gear were stationed on the side lanes of the Periférico Ring Road south of the stadium on Thursday and detours and checkpoints were heavily manned on Tlalpan Avenue both north and south of Estadio Azteca. Only local residents with valid registration papers and ticket holders were allowed to pass.
In the city center where dozens of teachers’ encampments have shut down vehicular traffic and commerce since June 1, organizers decided to open the FIFA Fan Fest in the Zócalo after having expressed uncertainty about the feasibility of encouraging fans to come downtown. Hundreds of capital riot police have been manning barricades and limiting access since the teachers arrived 11 days ago.
City authorities finally gave the go-ahead late Wednesday and fans of the national team demonstrated that they would not be dissuaded from ensuring that the World Cup would be a national celebration.
Hundreds descended on the Historic Center before dawn, lining up at the barricades as early as 3 a.m. Media reports indicated that there were nearly 15,000 fans in line a full two hours before the doors opened at 9:30 a.m.
Photos can help to capture the landscape and rich textures of a city like San Miguel de Allende. But so, too, can sounds. (Expedia)
“Yes, he had heard it all his life, but it was only now that his ears were opened to this sound that came from darkness, that could only come from darkness, that yet bore such sure witness to the glory of the light,” wrote James Baldwin in “Go Tell It on the Mountain.”
Our friends and family tell us a lot when they send us photos of the places they’ve visited: about the food, the architecture, the streets and the plant life. We hear their stories, we see the photos and we vicariously experience what they saw, smelled, tasted and touched. They tell us about health care and the food. We ask them about dress codes, best restaurants, museums, theatre, traffic and crime rates.
But what of the sounds?
The soundscape of a destination
Niagara Falls without the roar of the water is still beautiful, but at best it’s a partial experience. Bird-watching without the accompanying chirps and whistles is gorgeous, but just a portion of what makes it special. And I wonder: Is a concert, even one with all the staged visual effects, still a concert if one cannot hear the music?
We know at an intellectual level that sounds make distinctive contributions to landscapes. We know that some are associated with pleasure, some with danger and that some sounds are natural, others constructed. I’ve recently learned that they’re so significant that they’ve become an area of study for geographers and cultural anthropologists.
Knowing that sounds often contribute to our experience, we seek out particular ones, say bird songs and the sound of a creek on a nature hiking tour. But, for the most part, we snap our photos. Rarely do we attempt to capture the sounds, even more rarely to describe them. The result is that sounds become background and context, rarely the focus of our experience. And, after we’ve heard them a few times, we tend to ignore and stop listening to them.
Listening is not the same as hearing
Auditory experiences, our distinctions between what is “noise” and “disturbance,” what’s a “warning,” vary with our attention, what we decide, consciously or not, is worth listening to.
My wife, having had to repeat herself several times, insisted that I have my hearing checked. I was relieved when the audiologist told me that my hearing is okay. But that meant one of two things: my wife’s mumbling or I’m not listening to her. The audiologist just shrugged when I asked which it might be. My wife, on the other hand, is sure which of the two it is.
The questions, then, are: What do I take from what I hear? What do I listen to and what do I ignore? What might the sounds to which I listen (and the silence!) reveal about the life of the environments I inhabit? What am I missing if I don’t listen?
The sounds of Mexico and of San Miguel de Allende
Mexico’s urban soundscapes are apparently among the most distinctive on the planet. So distinctive are they, in fact, that the federal government actually observes a “National Sound Week,” and several “sound walks” have been organized in major cities. Among these is Mexico City, where artists are attempting to preserve the capital city’s rich soundscape.
Mexicans generally, the people of San Miguel de Allende (SMA) in particular, live life loudly. Sounds from the cacophonous to the sublime dramatically add to and complement all the other wonderful, justifiably touted features that make SMA one of the world’s most remarkable, top-rated cities.
The city’s most famous sounds, the church bells, ring to mark significant moments in life. At the end of wedding ceremonies, they joyfully peal. At the beginning of funeral services, they clang slowly, solemnly honoring the departed. With each of the many churches (more than 40 in the city) having its own calendar, parish bells are rung on different schedules. Depending on one’s location, one might hear bells from more than one church.
There are two types of church bells: those rung by pulling on a rope and those rotated to create the more melancholic sound heard on somber occasions such as the Day of the Dead and Holy Week. Not to be confused with the church bells, the clock bells mark the passage of time.
Weekend sounds in SMA
On weekends, especially during festivals or wedding parades (callejoneadas), we make our way to the Jardín Allende, the beautifully coiffed garden in front of the Parroquia, the splendid church in the center of the city. There, local families, their work and school done for the week, lovers of all nationalities congregate. Under the moonlit skies, ice cream in hand, we can (try to) listen to three mariachi bands, all competing for our attention, playing at the same time, their music continuing despite the church bells.
At the Saturday Organic Market (Tianguis Orgánico), talented local musicians entertain while people eat, shop and meet with friends old and new. There are great classical music concerts. There’s opera, tango and flamenco, mambo and samba, klezmer, jazz and blues — all heard at a multitude of restaurants and bars. And, there’s even a longstanding jazz and blues festival that, in recent years, has featured Herbie Hancock as well as the Gypsy Kings.
On occasion, in front of the Parroquia, a temporary stage will be erected on which special bands perform. The local people in the audience know many, maybe most, of the songs by heart. Though we rarely know what they’re singing, we get it at some level and happily join in.
The difference between music and noise pollution
Unfortunately, the sounds of music do not all resolve harmoniously. As tourism thrives, the increase in music has raised some concerns. For some who crave tranquility and serenity, it is experienced as “noise pollution.”
The SMA day starts with roosters and, depending on where one lives, practicing school marching bands, both of them off-key.
We wake to the sweet, if monotonous, cooing of mourning doves and to the song of the ubiquitous white-winged dove’s four-note song: “Who cooks for you?”
Throughout the day and night, our neighbourhood is a ruckus of barking dogs. When the sun goes down, in the middle of the night and even at first light, they yelp and snarl from behind closed doors and windows. During the day and until nighttime, we’ll sometimes see them, staring down on us from rooftops, edgy, their bodies tensed as if for battle, teeth bared, barking and snarling as we hurriedly move past.
In sharp contrast, often hidden from sight behind doors, courtyards and shaded gardens offer soft, serene soundscapes: rustling trees, trickling fountains and birdsong.
A huge colony of noisy monk parakeets nests in the trees near the San Juan de Dios market in the Las Cuevitas community. To us, their sounds are confused mayhem. Apparently, however, they have individual voice prints that allow them to recognize each other.
Other sounds that define the city
When we walk during the day, we hear the happy sounds of children playing in their schoolyards, in front of the churches and in the Parque Juarez. My wife disagrees with me that children cry less in SMA than they do in Canada. But we both agree with our friend, Betty Ann, that people laugh more in SMA.
We hear the sounds of traffic: diesel buses alternating with the multitude of taxis, cars, trucks and ever-increasing numbers of motorcycles, revving and speeding, then slowing for the multitude of speed bumps on the cobbled streets. In some areas of the city, horses and donkeys clip-clop.
The sound of fireworks marking festivals often brings on the night. If and when they continue throughout it, they might mark a death.
The streets of SMA produce a potpourri of sound: street vendors, selling baked goods, blare their presence as they rattle through the cobblestone streets. The knife and scissor sharpener makes his weekly rounds, pushing his stone pedal-operated wheel, announcing his arrival in the neighbourhood with a loud Pan-type flute, sometimes whistling a series of four notes, sometimes a single, mournful cry.
Delights for the senses and sometimes not
The music of the ice-cream vendor, a playful, somewhat jarring combination of honky-tonk piano and clown horns, daily gets our attention, but more importantly, lets residents know that ice-cream is available. Played out of a railway speaker, the Nieto gas truck squawks and buzzes its scratchy harmonies as the announcer tells us about his product.
A ringing handbell means “The garbage truck is here. So bring out your trash.” A steam whistle announces the arrival of the camoteros vendor selling oven-roasted sweet potatoes from his little rolling stainless steel oven. The water guy delivering garrafiñas of distilled water yells at the door once a week.
One of my favourites, the old-appliance truck with its loudspeaker incessantly playing the monotonous recording by an 11-year-old girl: “Se compran colchones, tambores, refrigeradores, estufas, lavadoras,” which translates to “We buy mattresses, drums, fridges, kitchen stoves and washers.”
San Miguel de Allende is, as we’ve written elsewhere, a delight for all the senses — sight, of course, taste, smell and touch — but we miss something extraordinarily important if we fail to experience the city’s special sounds.
Bruce Sarbit is a Canadian who happily winters in San Miguel de Allende.
George Aronson and Lynn Padwe are professional photographers and videographers who split their time between San Miguel de Allende and New York City.
Mexico's offense celebrates after delivering a home-turf win, featuring goals by Julián Quiñones and Raúl Jiménez. (Edgar Negrete Lira / Cuartoscuro.com)
Peter Davies, MND’s chief writer, was at Mexico City Stadium today for the opening ceremony and first match of the 2026 FIFA men’s World Cup. He and other reporters provided on-the-ground updates from Mexico City throughout the day.
Lives updates concluded at 4:35 p.m.
I’m signing off from Mexico City Stadium, where I’ve spent the last 10 hours. Thanks for following MND’s updates from the stadium. What a day for Mexico! —Peter Davies
A lone fan waits by the exit of Mexico City Stadium after Thursday’s match. (Peter Davies)
Updated 4:29 p.m.
While many fans have left the stadium area, a large number are celebrating Mexico’s victory right next to the arena. Beer and food outlets are plentiful and an impromptu dance party has begun. Some fans are celebrating by being dowsed in beer and flung up into the air.
Mexican fans celebrate their team’s win outside Mexico City Stadium. (Peter Davies)
Updated 4:08 p.m.
A group of fans from South Africa were disappointed with the result but enjoyed the stadium experience and interacting with Mexican fans. They hope South Africa will bounce back in their next match against the Czech Republic in Atlanta next week. —Peter Davies
A group of South Africa fans interview by MND’s Peter Davies. (Peter Davies)
Updated 3:46 p.m.
Fans continue to stream out of the stadium here as light rain falls in the capital’s south. Most will be heading for public transport, especially the light rail, which connects to the CDMX system. Some delays getting onto transport are likely due to the huge number of people at the stadium today (more than 80,000), but from my current vantage point the departure process appears to be running smoothly. —Peter Davies
Light afternoon showers greeted fans as they exited Mexico City Stadium. (Peter Davies)
Updated 3:39 p.m.
In case you were wondering, this is how much beer cost at the Mexico City Stadium today. Those are large cans — the size of two regular beers. 300 pesos is about US $17… And yes, a lot of it was drunk! —Peter Davies
At left, a menu shows beer prices at Mexico City Stadium. At right, trash bags and cans provide evidence that the prices didn’t discourage fans from partaking. (Peter Davies)
Updated 3:25 p.m.
The stadium emptied out quickly after the match, as fans rushed to beat traffic. —Peter Davies
Mexico City Stadium after Mexico vs. South Africa match. (Peter Davies)
Updated 3:11 p.m.
The final whistle has blown here at Mexico City Stadium. It’s a first-up win for El Tri, with a goal in each half sealing the deal 2-0. Mexico will go straight to the top of Group A with 3 points for the win. Mexico was the stronger side on the day, and is a deserved winner. South Africa wasn’t helped by being reduced to nine men due to two its players receiving red cards. Mexican defender César Montes also got a red card in injury time, but by that stage of the match the result was already settled. Quiñones, the Colombian-born, first-half goal-scorer, was named man of the match. —Peter Davies
A goal by Raúl Jiménez sealed Mexico’s lead in minute 67 of the opening match. (Peter Davies)
Updated 2:56 p.m.
South Africa is now down to nine men after a second player, Themba Zwane, was given a red card in the 84th minute. Mexico is dominating possession even more than before now — not surprising given that it is 11 players vs. nine. —Peter Davies
Updated 2:35 p.m.
¡Goooooooool! El Tri is now leading 2-0 after Mexican striker Raúl Jiménez headed a cross into the back of the South African net. Once again, the stadium erupted. Mexico looks hard to beat now with just 20 minutes of regular time remaining.
Jiménez, a 35-year-old Hidalgo native, is a celebrated footballer, with a long club career and over 100 appearances for El Tri. —Peter Davies
GOL DE RAÚL JIMÉNEZ, PRIMER GOL EN MUNDIALES EN SU CARRERA!!!
South Africa is down to 10 men after Yaya Sithole was given a red card for a foul on Mexican player Brian Gutiérrez. It will be hard for Bafana Bafana, as the South African team is known, to keep pace with El Tri with just 10 players, but for now, in the 63rd minute, the score remains 1-0 in Mexico’s favor. —Peter Davies
Updated 2:18 p.m.
Mexican fans I spoke to at half time were relatively happy with the first half, but rued the missed chances. They are confident that Mexico will prevail, predicting at least two more goals for the home side in the second half. One of the fans I spoke to is Isael Gutiérrez, manager of the Tijuana-based regional Mexican band Grupo Firme. Gutiérrez, who is at the match with his 15-year-old son, said that football in Mexico is a celebration that brings people together. He predicted a 3-0 victory for Mexico. —Peter Davies
Isael Gutiérrez, manager of the celebrated norteño band Grupo Firme, with his son and MND Chief Staff Writer Peter Davies at the World Cup opening match. (Peter Davies)
Updated 1:58 p.m.
It’s half time here at Mexico City Stadium. Mexico will take a 1-0 lead into the second half after a Julián Quiñones’ goal in the ninth minute. On two occasions, El Tri very nearly added to the scoresheet in the final minutes of the first half, but couldn’t quite find the back of the net. One of the shots hit the right post. Mexico looked the better team in this first half. It had close to 60% of ball possession and had three shots on target to South Africa’s one.
The atmosphere has been electric and looks set to build in the second half as Mexican fans attempt to will their team to a second goal. Quiñones, the goal scorer, is a native of Colombia, but a nationalized Mexican. He made his debut for the national team in 2023. He plays his club football in Saudi Arabia. —Peter Davies
Mexican fans predicted their team would keep scoring to seal a 1-0 lead as it heads into the second half of the 2026 World Cup’s opening match. (Peter Davies)
Updated 1:18 p.m.
¡Goooooooool! Mexico has opened its account at this World Cup! Julián Quiñones slotted the ball into the back of the net, sending tens of thousands of fans into raptures. The score stands at 1-0 Mexico after 10 minutes. —Peter Davies
— TV Azteca Deportes (@AztecaDeportes) June 11, 2026
Outside the stadium’s main entrance, a group of student protesters is launching traffic cones and other barriers at a group of police in an attempt to breach the stadium. Facing dozens of police in riot gear, they have not made headway. —Caitlin Cooper
Updated 1:09 p.m.
The 2026 FIFA World Cup is underway! Mexico had the kickoff and maintained possession very early in the match. The stadium is abuzz.
Mexico took possession and made first shot on goal: a hard, low strike toward the left post that was saved by the South African goalkeeper. —Peter Davies
Updated 12:59 p.m.
The Mexican and South African flags have been unveiled on the pitch. The teams are also walking onto the pitch ahead of the 1 p.m. start of this opening World Cup match. The excitement is building in the stadium, as fans rise to their feet for the national anthems. The South African anthem played first, followed by that of Mexico. Mexican fans were in good — and loud — voice. Play is now imminent.
Just before play, fans began throwing thousands of cardboard sombreros toward the pitch. None have made it far, landing instead among the thousands of spectators. —Peter Davies
The Mexican and South African flags are unveiled as each team walks onto the pitch. (Peter Davies)
Updated 12:49 p.m.
Mexico has announced its starting 11 for today’s match. Raúl Rangel is the starting goalkeeper, while the defensive players are Jesús Gallardo, Johan Vasquez, Cesar Montes and Israel Reyes. In the midfield, El Tri will start with Álvaro Fidalgo, Brian Gutiérrez and Erik Lira. Up front are Julián Quiñones, Raúl Jiménez and Roberto Alvarado.
— Mexican National Team (@miseleccionmxEN) June 11, 2026
South Africa has also announced its starting 11. In goal is Ronwen Williams, while the defenders are Aubrey Modiba, Mbekezeli Mbokazi, Nkosinathi Sibisi, Ime Okon and Khuliso Mudau. The starting midfielders for South Africa are Teboho Mokoena, Siphephelo Sithole and Jayden Adams. Up front are Lyle Foster and Iqraam Rayners. —Peter Davies
The Mexican and South African teams are now warming up on the pitch. These two teams also met in the opening match of the 2010 World Cup, hosted by South Africa. That match ended in a 1-1 draw. Today’s match will be played in warm conditions in the Mexican capital. It is now 22 C, but high in the stands at least, it feels warmer. Many fans left their seats at the end of the opening ceremony for a bathroom break or purchase refreshments. Beer is a definite top seller.—Peter Davies
The day is warming up and long lines are forming at refreshment stands, as fans take advantage of a break between the opening ceremony and the start of the inaugural World Cup match: Mexico vs. South Africa. (Peter Davies)
Updated 12:08 p.m.
The high-energy opening ceremony wrapped up around noon. Various groups of performers entered, and later, exited center stage: female dancers in folkloric Mexican dress, warrior-type figures, and many more. Performers including Shakira, Danny Ocean, Burna Boy, J Balvin, Los Ángeles Azules and Maná provided an upbeat soundtrack to the spectacle. Fireworks exploded intermittently, leaving smoke lingering above the pitch. A cry of “Viva México” likely elicited the largest cheer of the ceremony. A large FIFA sign suspended above the center of the pitch made it clear that this is a global event put on by football’s governing body. We’re now less than an hour away from kickoff! —Peter Davies
The opening ceremony of the World Cup kicks off in Mexico City Stadium ahead of the Mexico vs. South Africa opening match. (Peter Davies)
Updated 11:59 a.m.
At the Parque Las Américas Fan Fest, cheers erupt as Lila Downs begins her performance to officially kick off the opening ceremonies. As Mexican rock band Maná begins to play, the cheers grow even louder and the entire plaza sings along. —Tom Buckley
Even pets are picking sides: A dog sports an El Tri jersey at the Parque Las Américas Fan Fest in Mexico City. (Tom Buckley)
Updated 11:53 a.m.
Outside the stadium, 60 rows of police and security agents await behind a barricade on Tlalpan Avenue, near the Registro Federal light rail station. Past the barricade traffic is minimal and foot traffic flows smoothly. Pedestrians, scooters and bicyclists — some decked in team colors and jerseys — pass by, going to and from the stadium. —Caitlin Cooper
Updated 11:48 a.m.
The opening ceremony of the FIFA World Cup is underway at Mexico City Stadium. At the start of the ceremony, hundreds of performers took to the pitch, which had been draped with a kind of large greenish/bluish flag. A large replica of the World Cup trophy is at the center of the pitch and surrounding it are dancers in pre-Hispanic style penachos (headresses), and scores of gold-clad performers. The circular visual they together created was reminiscent of the Aztec sun stone. —Peter Davies
Updated 11:18 a.m.
Mexican fans have just erupted as it was announced over the sound system that the Mexico team was arriving at the stadium. The team’s green bus appeared on the large screen, adding to the expectation. El Tri has been training at the Mexican Football Federation’s High Performance Center in southern Mexico City. President Sheinbaum presided over an official “sendoff ceremony” for the team at the facility on Monday, during which she presented the national flag to veteran goalkeeper Guillermo Ochoa. —Peter Davies
🚨⚽ #ONMundialista | ¡El Tricolor ya va en camino al estadio!
At the Parque Las Américas Fan Fest, one of 18 around the city, roughly 400 people gathered under a marquee on the basketball court in the Benito Juárez borough listening to live music as the opening ceremony draws near. Crowds continued to arrive steadily to the event, which was already standing-room only. —Tom Buckley
Crowds gather at the Parque Las Américas Fan Fest in the Narvarte neighborhood of Mexico City. (Tom Buckley)
Updated 11:02 a.m.
While the main World Cup focus today is on the Mexico vs. South Africa match in Mexico City, there is another game tonight. South Korea will take on the Czech Republic at the Guadalajara Stadium at 8 p.m. The four teams playing today are all in Group A in the 48-nation tournament. Mexico’s second match will take place in Guadalajara next Thursday night. The first match in Mexico’s third World Cup host city, Monterrey, will be played between Sweden and Tunisia this Sunday night. —Peter Davies
Fans burst into applause as announcers trumpeted the arrival of El Tri at Mexico City Stadium Thursday morning. (Peter Davies)
Updated 10:53 a.m.
Outside of the station of Tlalpan y Tezozomoc the search collective protest march had to stop, briefly. The road is closed. But the demonstration continues, now grown in numbers and crossing the overpass to continue towards the stadium.
It’s has been over two hours since the search collective march set off from el Parque Cerro San Antonio, but energy and visibility has only grown. Walking against the stream of traffic, cries for the government to take responsibility in identifying the missing spouses, children, brothers, and sisters are amplified through megaphones and the sound of a metal pan rapped with a stick.
Students in balaclavas were seen dashing across the road near La Virgen station. A skull and crossbones cape flapped from the shoulders of one young man, who sprinted away after graffitiing the main street’s wall in rebuke of government inaction. —Millie Deere
Updated 10:50 a.m.
The Mexico City Stadium is filling up and is already very loud! Music is playing, fans are chanting and announcements are being made over the stadium loudspeakers at deafening volume. The pitch looks an absolute picture — in pristine condition. Flags of perhaps all, or at least most, of the world’s countries adorn the stadium roof. Right now, Zayu the jaguar — Mexico’s World Cup mascot — is making an appearance on the large screen, eliciting cheers. We are now around 40 minutes away from the start of the opening ceremony. —Peter Davies
The excitement and volume climbed as fans poured into the stadium Thursday morning. (Peter Davies)
Updated 9:52 a.m.
Mexico City Stadium, known colloquially as “The Colossus of Santa Úrsula,” previously hosted World Cup matches, including the finals, in 1970 and 1986. Apart from football (soccer) matches, the stadium has hosted boxing events, NFL matches and large concerts of artists such as Michael Jackson and U2. Pope John Paul II even appeared here at an event in 1999. —Peter Davies
Fans and media gather outside the stadium Thursday morning. (Peter Davies)
Updated 9:43 a.m.
As a result of the protests, some metro stations have been closed, leaving stadium-goers to find their own routes. The closed stations include the Line 2 station Ermita; the stations of Pino Suárez, Hidalgo, Bellas Artes, Allende, Zócalo/Tenochtitlan, Chabacano, San Antonio Abad, Viaducto and Xola on Line 2; and Hidalgo and Universidad stations on Line 3.
Actualización sobre el cierre de estaciones en la Red, debido a manifestaciones al exterior.
Se suma al cierre temporal la estación Ermita de la Línea 2 del @MetroCDMX para el público usuario.
Asimismo, permanecen cerradas las estaciones Pino Suárez de la Línea 1; Hidalgo, Bellas…
While fans begin to fill the stadium, protestors march on nearby thoroughfares, seeking to bring attention to causes ranging from Mexico disappearance crisis to teacher salaries. After a brief stop under the overpass by Las Torres station on Calzada de Tlalpan to hold its ground, a rally in support of Mexico’s missing persons has begun to march again in the direction of Mexico City Stadium (Estadio Azteca), where the opening match of the World Cup will be held this afternoon.
Various groups and independents, including Colectivo Mariposas Destellando, are marching to raise awareness of the over 130,000 still disappeared people in Mexico, and to exert pressure on the government to do more to identify their missing loved ones.
“Donde están? Donde estan? Nuestros jumps donde estan?” they shout.
The rally is fronted by a street-wide banner of near to 250 faces, mostly men, who have yet to be identified. The nuclei of the protest, donning green T-shirts with their children’s faces, are mothers, who take it in turns to call the name of their missing child, holding a microphone to each other’s mouths.—Millie Deere
Updated at 9:06 a.m.
It’s now 9 a.m. and there is quite a buzz in the Mexico City Stadium media center. There are journalists, photographers, TV reporters and camera operators from around the world. A reporter from Xinhua, the Chinese news agency, approached me to ask about my internet connection — neither of us were able to connect to any of the open Wi-Fi signals. Getting through initial security checks was easy and quick. We are now 2 1/2 hours away from the start of the opening ceremony. Among the star-studded line-up for the ceremony are Shakira, J Balvin (another Colombian singer) and Mexican band Maná.—Peter Davies
Mexican fans arrive at the stadium, ready to cheer on their team. (Peter Davies)
Updated at 8:52 a.m.
El Tri, Mexico’s national football team, comes into its World Cup opener in good form. Mexico won its final warm-up match against Serbia 5-1 in Toluca, México state, last Thursday night. El Tri also won a warm-up match against Australia in the Rose Bowl, in California, on May 30. The score in that match was 1-0. Mexican fans will be hoping that Mexico can notch up another victory today at Mexico City Stadium, a huge arena best known as Estadio Azteca (Azteca Stadium). Head coach Javier Aguirre is managing El Tri at the World Cup for a third time this year. Aguirre, a former World Cup player himself (Mexico ’86), managed Mexico at the World Cups in 2002 in South Korea and Japan, and in 2010 in South Africa. Mexico was knocked out at the round of 16 stage in both those tournaments. —Peter Davies
Updated at 8:32 a.m.
One notable absentee at today’s opening ceremony and inaugural match will be Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum. She decided to give away the ticket she received last year from FIFA President Gianni Infantino. In the president’s place at the Mexico City Stadium today will be Yolett Cervantes Cuaquehua, a 21-year-old woman from the Gulf coast state of Veracruz. She won the president’s ticket in a soccer ball juggling competition run by the federal government. Cervantes received her ticket at Sheinbaum’s press conference on May 29.—Peter Davies
Updated at 8:14 a.m.
It’s only 8 a.m. but it’s already starting to get warm here. After a lot of recent rain, it’s a clear, sunny morning in Mexico City. The forecast is a high of 24 C, a temperature that could be reached while Mexico and South Africa are on the pitch. A reminder to our readers: Mexico City sits at an altitude of over 2,000 meters. That altitude could also affect players, although El Tri has plenty of experience playing in Mexico City. The South African team has been training in Pachuca, which is also situated more than 2,000 meters above sea level. —Peter Davies
A pair of fans hailing from Nuevo Laredo predicted a 4-1 victory by Mexico in today’s match. (Peter Davies)
Updated at 7:50 a.m.
It’s not yet 8 a.m. and the atmosphere is already building outside the stadium as Mexican fans arrived dressed for the occasion. There is also a lot of color — especially green, of course — and some fans have dressed in uniquely Mexican costumes: lucha libre masks, mariachi costumes, pre-Hispanic dress, and women in colorful folkloric skirts. —Peter Davies
Fans sport traditional mariachi costumes and folkloric dresses on their way to the stadium. (Peter Davies)
Updated 7:28 a.m.
It wouldn’t be a World Cup match in Mexico without an OXXO in the stadium precinct! This one is doing a brisk trade at 7:30 a.m. —Peter Davies
An OXXO outside Mexico City Stadium, on Circuito Estadio de Azteca. (Peter Davies)
Updated at 7:05 a.m.
I’ve arrived at Mexico City Stadium after a smooth, hassle-free trip on the metro and light rail. At 7 a.m. local time, a good number of fans have already reached the stadium. Security is tight, with a large presence of National Guard Officers and Mexico City police. —Peter Davies
MND Chief Writer Peter Davies at Mexico City Stadium. (Peter Davies)
Corona Extra ranked as Mexico's favorite beer in a recent poll, with just over a third of respondents preferring the brand. (Shutterstock)
The FIFA men’s World Cup kicks off today and that means many Mexicans will be having their first World Cup beer of the 23rd edition of the tournament.
We reported last month that beer sales in Mexico are expected to spike during the 39-day tournament. Sales are likely to be particularly strong when the Mexican national team is playing, as is the case today.
In that context, we decided to make beer the focus of this week’s “Mexico in Numbers” article.
While buying a beer at an OXXO, supermarket or corner store is a simple exercise in Mexico, we found that reliable, up-to-date data related to the country’s favorite alcoholic beverage was harder to come by.
Nevertheless, we managed to compile a range of cerveza-related numbers, a selection of which are presented below. ¡Salud!
Corona Extra — an iconic Mexican beer that celebrated its 100th birthday last year — was the clear winner, with 36.1% of those polled saying that it was the beer they consumed the most.
Victoria ranked as the second most popular beer, with 27.6% of respondents saying that the Grupo Modelo-produced brew was their go-to.
Ranking third to fifth were Tecate Original (15.5%), Modelo Especial (8.6%) and Michelob Ultra (8.5%).
Beer is the favorite alcoholic beverage of most Mexicans
Citing its own research as well as data from Deloitte, Kirin, the Ministry of Agriculture, the Bank of Mexico and the Beer Institute, Polls MX also reported last year that 15% of Mexican beer drinkers prefer to drink from cans, and that per capita beer consumption in Mexico was 79.8 liters per year.
From coronitas to caguamones
Bottled and canned beer comes in various sizes in Mexico. Here is a brief guide to those different sizes and their names (or colloquial names) in Mexico.
Bottled beer
210-ml bottles: Corona Extra and Victoria are both sold in bottles of this size. Small bottles of Corona are called Coronitas (little Coronas). Other brands are also sold in similarly-sized small bottles. One example is Tecate Light, branded as Tecatita Light. Small bottles of beer are also known as ampolletas (vials) and cuartitos.
355-ml bottles: This is the standard size of bottled beer in Mexico. A bottle of this size is called media or simply a botella.
940-ml bottles: Bottles of this size are colloquially called caguamas or ballenas in Mexico. Bottles of this size are also known as “tamaño familiar” (family size). The name caguama comes from the bottle’s supposed similarity to a loggerhead turtle, which is known in Mexico as a caguama. In some parts of the country, beer bottles of this size are called ballenas (whales), due to their supposed similarity to the large marine mammals.
1.2-liter bottles: Bottles of this size are colloquially known as caguamones. That’s right, the word caguamón refers to a large loggerhead turtle.
Canned beer
355-ml cans: This is the standard size of canned beer in Mexico. A can of this size is simply called a lata (can).
473-ml cans: Cans of this size are often called latones (large cans).
710-ml cans: These even larger cans of beer are also known as latones.
Caguamas and caguamones. (Jonathan Reynaga / Pexels)
Mexico’s biggest brewers are owned by foreign companies
Mexico’s beer market is dominated by two players: Grupo Modelo, which makes Corona, Victoria and Modelo Especial, among other beers, and Heineken México, which produces Tecate, Dos Equis and Indio, among other beers.
Heineken, a Dutch company, acquired the Monterrey-headquartered Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma Brewery from the Mexican company FEMSA in a $7.6 billion deal in 2010.
