Saturday, September 13, 2025

‘Across the waves’: The Mexican waltz that defined American folk

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Juventino Rosas. (Gobierno de México)

I was recently talking to a Mexican friend about people whose work defined our respective countries. Other friends trotted out the usual suspects – “William Shakespeare,” “Winston Churchill,” “Isembard Kingdom Brunel” and so on. When it was his turn to think of some notable Mexicans, my friend began with the same somewhat tired list; Benito Juárez, Emiliano Zapata and Diego Rivera. Then he turned to me and said “Did you know a Mexican wrote ‘The Blue Danube?’” 

I didn’t, and that was partly because he turned out to be incorrect. It turns out that while Mexican authorship of “Blue Danube” is something of a common misconception in Mexico, the song he was referring to is arguably even more recognized than Johann Strauss’ Viennese waltz.

You actually already know the song. It plays at the circus, at the sports game, the carnival, in movies and even in video games like “Forza Horizon.” The tune has become synonymous with good old-fashioned leisure, but its composer and an enormous influence on U.S. folk genres remain relatively unknown, even in his home country.

“Sobre las olas” was composed by Juventino Policarpo Rosas Cadenas back in 1888 and is more than the soundtrack to a daring trapeze routine. After experiencing a revival in the mid-20th century, the song has become a mainstay of classical music and New Orleans jazz, country, bluegrass and tejano – many of the more traditional U.S. and Mexican folk genres. 

Juventino Rosas: Mexico’s most important classical composer

Born in Santa Cruz, Guanajuato – now Santa Cruz de Juventino Rosas, for reasons that will become obvious – in 1868, Rosas began his career as many aspiring musicians have: on the street. Joining up with a dance band in Mexico City, the young Otomí composer and his family walked the 180 miles from their hometown to what was then the Mexico City suburb of Tepito when Juventino was just seven years old.

Poster announcing the piano adaptation of “On the Waves” already under the label of Wagner and Levien Sucs. (Gobierno de México)

Success very quickly followed the young violinist, and by 18, he had performed for legendary opera singer Angela Peralta – the “Mexican Nightingale” – and for President Porfirío Díaz. Despite these enormous achievements, young Rosas had an uneasy relationship with the formal musical establishment, dropping out of the city’s conservatory twice before taking any formal exams. 

By the end of the 1880s, the now-teenaged Rosas toured with a military band, finding himself in Michoacán. A few years later, he was further north still, working in Monterrey. Here, Rosas joined a touring band, traveling through the U.S. on his way to perform at the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago.

Death and success

The World’s Fair gig was high profile enough to land Rosas a job traveling Cuba with an international crew of musicians. Sadly, he contracted spinal myelitis while touring the island and succumbed to the infection shortly afterward, aged only 26. He was buried in Cuba but his remains were later repatriated to Mexico in 1909. Thanks to his posthumous stardom, Rosas was buried in the Panteón Civil de Dolores cemetery in the prestigious Circle of Illustrious Persons, next to presidents, artists and revolutionary heroes. 

He published 25 compositions in his lifetime – mostly Mexican danzas and European waltzes, almost entirely through the Mexican publishing house ​​Wagner y Levien. “Sobre las olas” itself was sold for a mere 45 pesos – though it reportedly made its new owner hundreds of thousands when it became a fixture of the European waltz scene.

“Sobre las olas” did not make much of a splash in Rosas’s lifetime. However, in the early part of the 20th Century, the song exploded in popularity. 

Author José Emilio Pacheco once remarked, “Only one other waltz vies with the ‘Blue Danube’ for the privilege of being played around the world every day, every hour. It is ‘Sobre las olas’, the best-known musical composition among those produced by the Mexican arts.”

“Sobre las olas,” George Lewis and Americana

While the song became a smash hit on the European and Latin Waltz circuits, its life in the early 20th century is still more remarkable. The evolution of U.S. southern folk genres – particularly New Orleans Jazz, Tejano, Bluegrass, and Country and Western – owes Rosas a significant debt, and the song became a mainstay for musicians across the country.

While other traditional Mexican songs often formed part of early jazz repertoire – notably “Cielito Lindo” and “La Bamba” – none has been elevated to the status of Rosas’ magnum opus.

While it is well known as the classic crooning track “The Most Wonderful Night of the Year,” it is New Orleans Jazz where the song became most notable. Jazz scholar Paul Tighe explains how the song became so symbolic of early jazz that British audiences actually wept when first hearing it performed. 

The song was closely associated with legendary jazzman George Lewis – a man who had supposedly never left New Orleans and was, therefore one of the purist players of the genre. His rendition of “Sobre las olas” was now tied to the legend that he had recorded it while recovering from an attack in a hospital in 1943.  

“The pedestal that this song was placed on shows it was a major part of the set and is identified with Lewis as early as 1943,” he explains.

“When he toured Britain in 1957, when people saw him – when people heard him for the first time, people wept because they thought they were hearing the essence of New Orleans Jazz,” Tighe continues. “The song remained prominent in his live performances until his death in 1968.”

This was 80 years after Rosas first published the song, which had taken on a new life. The adoption of “Sobre las olas” was actually part of a wider trend of Latin music entering the U.S. cultural sphere. According to Tighe, legendary Jelly Roll Morton – one of the progenitors of the New Orleans scene – described the importance of infusing Mexican and Latin sounds into the genre. 

“As Morton told the Library of Congress, ‘If you can’t manage to put tinges of Spanish in your tunes, you will never be able to get the right seasoning for jazz.’”

As New Orleans jazz became a starting point for a variety of other southern folk genres, the new life that Lewis had afforded it meant that it was borrowed by other artists across a variety of genres. Willie Nelson recorded it on his seminal “Red Headed Stranger” album. The Beach Boys released it under the title “Carnival” and the Atari video game company released it as the soundtrack to Pitfall II: Lost Caverns (albeit in a very bleepy style) on their Atari 2600 console. 

The song also regained its Mexican roots somewhat, becoming a staple of early Tejano music. The genre would eventually morph into what we now know as Norteño, but few songs in the early days of the style better represented the fusion of north and south quite like “Across the Waves.”

It is a shame that Rosas has never truly gained the recognition he deserves for his work as a musical innovator. The genres that picked up his tune have all become iconic – but whatever the size of their modern audiences, they all owe their debt to an Otomí man who lived a short yet brilliant life more than a century ago.

By Mexico News Daily writer Chris Havler-Barrett

Wet and cold weather in the forecast across Mexico

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The thirteenth cold front of the season will bring rain and chilly temperatures to the central region of the country. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

Another cold, wet start to the week is in the forecast for much of Mexico, as the thirteenth cold front of the season moves across the country.

The cold front is expected to concentrate over southeast Mexico and will interact with channels of subtropical moisture and low pressure to bring torrential rain (150-250 mm) to Chiapas, Tabasco and the south of Veracruz.

Conagua projection 04/12/23
Rain is forecast for much of the central and south of the country. (Conagua)

Intense rains (75-150 mm) are also forecast for Campeche, Oaxaca and Yucatán, and very heavy rain (50-75 mm) is predicted for Puebla. The central region of the country is expected to see heavy rains (25-50 mm) or showers, with lighter, scattered rains in the northwest.

The National Meteorological Service (SMN) warns that the heaviest rains may be accompanied by lightning, strong winds and hail, and could cause flooding in low-lying areas. Residents should remain alert to instructions from Civil Protection.

These weather systems will again bring cold air and gusts of up to 90 kilometers per hour to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, with waves of up to 2-4 meters high in the Gulf of Tehuantepec. The coast of Veracruz will see waves of 1-2 meters high and feel gusts of up to 70 kilometers per hour.

Minimum temperatures may drop as low as -10 degrees Celsius in the mountainous regions of Baja California, Chihuahua, Durango and Sonora, and as low as -5 degrees Celsius in Coahuila and Zacatecas, with snow and ice possible.

Mexico City is expected to remain cooler – with high peaks across the country seeing snow. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)

Snow is also likely in mountain ranges over 4,200 meters above sea level across the center and northeast of the country. The lower-lying areas of this region are likely to have a cool, fresh day, possibly dropping to near-freezing temperatures at night.

At the other end of the scale, maximum temperatures could hit 40 degrees Celsius in Chiapas and on the coast of Guerrero and Oaxaca, and 35 degrees Celsius in Campeche, Colima, Michoacán, Nayarit, Quintana Roo, Sinaloa and Yucatán.

Monday in Mexico City will be cloudy and cool, with temperatures ranging between 10 and 20 degrees Celsius.

Mexico News Daily

Young woman dies after shark attack in Melaque, Jalisco

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Beach where woman was brought ashore after shark attack
The woman was brought ashore after the attack on Saturday, but had already died from blood loss. (Social media screen captures)

A 26-year-old woman died Saturday after she was attacked by a shark while swimming at a beach in southern Jalisco.

María Fernanda Martínez Jiménez was swimming with her 5-year-old daughter at a coastal aquatic park in Melaque when she was bitten on her upper leg. The attack occurred at around 11 a.m.

The 26-year-old victim studied marine biology. (@kirschner1 / X)

According to local Civil Protection chief Rafael Araiza, Martínez was trying to lift her daughter onto a floating play platform 25 meters from the beach when the shark attacked. The young girl was not harmed.

Civil Protection authorities in Cihuatlán, the municipality where Melaque is located, said in a Facebook post that its personnel rushed to the beach after they received news of the attack.

But Martínez, who lived in a nearby town and reportedly worked at a local hotel, had already died due to blood loss.

Civil Protection personnel who spoke with the Milenio newspaper said that the woman’s leg was completely severed. Authorities didn’t say what type of shark attacked Martínez, and it was unclear whether anyone actually saw it.

Shark warning for some Jalisco beaches
The local government urged caution to swimmers in the area. (Civil Protection La Huerta/Facebook)

There was initially some conjecture that a crocodile caused the fatal injury.

Beaches in Melaque and the nearby town of Barra de Navidad were closed after the attack. The municipal government of La Huerta, which neighbors Cihuatlán, warned of the presence of a shark off the coast of southern Jalisco and advised citizens to “take precautions” at local beaches.

The Centro Universitario de la Costa Sur, a University of Guadalajara campus where Martínez studied marine biology, expressed its condolences in a post on social media.

Shark attacks are quite rare in Mexico, but not unheard of. A United States tourist was bitten on the leg in 2019 while he was swimming at a beach in Troncones, Guerrero, while a U.S. diver was bitten on the arm in Magdalena Bay off the Baja California Sur coast in another non-fatal attack the same year.

A 37-year-old scuba diver died in 2018 after he was attacked by what is believed to have been a shark in the waters off Puerto Peñasco, Sonora.

With reports from Milenio, López-Dóriga DigitalInfobae and AP

The week in photos from Mexico: Guadalajara to Valle de Bravo

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Man in a church with a cross
Nov. 23: A man with his son, carrying a photo of a deceased friend while attending mass in the Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City. (MOISÉS PABLO/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Take a visual tour of the week in Mexico – from the Guadalajara international book fair to a traditional procession in Cuernavaca – with this selection of pictures from around the country.

Valle de Bravo, México state

Protest in Valle de Bravo
Nov. 25: Residents of Valle de Bravo protest by the Miguel Alemán reservoir, which has reached its lowest point in 25 years. The reservoir is part of the Cutzamala system, which supplies water to Mexico City. (CRISANTA ESPINOSA AGUILAR /CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Mexico City

Nov. 25: Women march for justice on International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women in Mexico City. (GRACIELA LÓPEZ /CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Cuernavaca, Morelos

Nov. 26: Dancers in traditional costumes participate in the celebration of the church of Cristo Rey in Cuernavaca. (MARGARITO PÉREZ RETANA/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

San Nicolás de los Garza, Nuevo León

Nov. 27: The women’s soccer team Tigres beat América and became the league’s 2023 champions. (GABRIELA PÉREZ MONTIEL / CUARTOSCURO.COM)

San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas

Nov. 28: The designer “Kabura Recycled” presented at a fashion show, with 40 outfits made entirely of recycled materials. (ISABEL MATEOS /CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Guadalajara, Jalisco

Nov. 29: At the 37th edition of the Guadalajara International Book Fair (FIL), one of the largest of its kind, thousands of attendees peruse the books on sale. (FERNANDO CARANZA GARCIA / CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Samuel García is back as Nuevo León governor, ending 2024 campaign

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Samuel García video message
García had published a video on X late Friday confirming his intentions to continue with the presidential campaign, but as of Saturday, he has resumed gubernatorial duties. (Samuel García/X)

Samuel García’s quest to become Mexico’s next president appears to be over, as a messy political situation continues to play out in the northern state of Nuevo León.

The 35-year-old would-be presidential candidate for the Citizens Movement (MC) party announced in the early hours of Saturday morning that he had reassumed his position as Nuevo León governor, a move that will prevent him from contesting the June 2, 2024 election.

Luis Enrique Orozco
Luis Enrique Orozco was appointed the interim governor of Nuevo León on Wednesday following chaos in the state Congress. (Cuartoscuro)

“Nuevo León, I already communicated to the cabinet that I legally and formally reassumed [gubernatorial] duties. I have convened [the cabinet] first thing tomorrow morning to continue building the new Nuevo León,” García wrote on the X social media platform.

His resumption of duties was also notified in the Nuevo León government’s official gazette.

The governor requested and was granted six months of leave in order to seek the MC nomination and campaign for the presidency ahead of the 2024 election.

However, due to his dissatisfaction with opposition parties’ appointment of an interim governor considered sympathetic to their political agenda and the Supreme Court’s ratification of that appointment, García ultimately decided to eschew the leave period authorized by the state Congress.

Samuel García pre-campaign rally
García had already launched an attention-grabbing pre-campaign tour of the country as the representative of the Citizens Movement party for 2024. (Samuel García/X)

Luis Enrique Orozco, a former deputy attorney general with ties to the Institutional Revolutionary Party, was sworn in as interim governor at the tail end of a chaotic congressional session on Wednesday, and arrived at the Nuevo León Palace of Government shortly after midnight Saturday to commence his term.

The Supreme Court ruled late Friday that Orozco’s appointment was valid – although the Federal Electoral Tribunal had ruled that an MC-affiliated politician should replace García – and he officially became interim governor at 12 a.m. Saturday.

Orozco’s tenure apparently lasted less than an hour, although he claimed he was still interim governor even after García announced his return, and asserted he wouldn’t leave the position until he received an official order to do so.

As he was holding a press conference in the Palace of Government patio, Orozco was informed by government secretary Javier Navarro that García had decided to reassume his position as governor.

García – who arrived at the Palace of Government at 12:50 a.m. to resume his gubernatorial duties – was legally required to leave the position to contest the 2024 presidential election. He is precluded from participating unless he goes on leave.

Just hours before announcing his decision to reassume his position as governor, García said he was planning to continue campaigning for the presidency and expressed confidence that he would never return to the top job in Nuevo León because he believed he would win next year’s election.

With the Nuevo León governor now effectively out of the race, the contest to succeed President López Obrador is between Claudia Sheinbaum, the candidate for the ruling Morena party, and Xóchitl Gálvez, who will represent the Broad Front for Mexico opposition alliance.

Sheinbaum, former mayor of Mexico City, is the clear frontrunner, with recent polls showing she has around 50% support, compared to about 25% for Gálvez. The polls showed Garcíaa controversial former senator who assumed the governorship of Nuevo León in late 2021 – in a distant third place.

With reports from Reforma, Milenio, El Universal and López-Dóriga Digital

What we can all learn from immigrants: A perspective from our CEO

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Travis Bembenek moving to Mexico
Travis Bembenek and his wife embarked on the adventure of moving from the U.S. to Mexico. (Courtesy)

Just a few nights ago my wife and I watched the recently released movie “A Million Miles Away” – a true story about José Hernández, the son of Mexican migrants who started as a farm worker, and became an engineer and an astronaut. He was the first Latino to fly to the space station in the NASA space shuttle.

I am not one to cry, but I must admit that it was tough to keep a dry eye throughout much of the movie. I was overcome with a mix of emotions from sheer joy, admiration and respect for the real-life characters of the Hernández family.

I have learned first-hand throughout my life to always bet on hard-working immigrants.  The risks they have taken, the courage, tenacity, and perseverance they have demonstrated to pick up and make such a massive change cannot ever be underestimated.

It was also a classic story of a relentless pursuit of an American dream. A significant inspiration for my wanting to leave a comfortable corporate life in the United States came from working with immigrants.

When we left the corporate world and decided to move to Mexico, I said to my wife: “now it’s time for me to become an immigrant.”

I understand that my circumstances were much different than those of most immigrants, but I still wanted to feel the excitement, the stress, the fear of the unknown, and the need to “just put your head down, work damn hard, and figure things out” that so many immigrants feel.

Travis in San Miguel
Travis lives now in San Miguel de Allende. (Courtesy)

If you think about it, when you become an immigrant, it’s the ultimate bet on yourself – and that’s not easy. When you bet on yourself, there is no one but yourself to blame if things don’t work out well.

For most of my adult life I have been surrounded by immigrants. While growing up, my parents owned a commercial cleaning company in Madison, Wisconsin that I worked at throughout high school and college. The majority of the employees were immigrants, most from Mexico, but also many from other parts of Latin America, Eastern Europe, and even Africa.

I marveled how most of them finished an 8-hour day job to then go directly to work another 8-hour night shift for my parents’ company. Weekend overtime opportunities? They were always the first to raise their hands. I couldn’t help but be amazed and respect their incredible work ethic – while at the same time keeping a strong sense of family and community.

Many of them had left members of their families behind to come work in the United States, yet they maintained a laser-sharp focus on making enough money to go back to their home country. or to help their family members come live with them in their newly adopted country.

Later on, in my professional career and in leadership roles for my company’s Latin American division, we often worked to help our employees who were looking to move to other countries within the region.

First it was the Colombians looking for better opportunities elsewhere, then a huge flow of Venezuelans and Argentinians. I remember countless conversations with the employees and often their families to understand their motivations and ambitions so I could figure out how we could best help them.

It’s hard to forget the looks on the faces of the families as they agreed to take a new job in a new country, an unknown adventure and challenge in a unique way for each member of the family.

I feel that much of present-day wealthier society’s ills come from essentially a “comfort crisis.” If you haven’t read it, the book “The Comfort Crisis: Embrace Discomfort to Reclaim Your Wild, Happy, Healthy Self” by Michael Easter is a great one.

Immigrants know what it’s like to embrace discomfort – they have personally made the choice to do it. I personally have benefited from and enjoyed the process, despite it not being easy, and I think many others would too.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

But what does it meme? The week in Mexican memes

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This week's curated collection of Mexican memes.

If you’re on a quest to understand Mexican humor – or at least to find the best Mexican memes to share with your friends – we’ve got you covered! Here’s this week’s curated collection with a translation, background, any relevance to current events, and hopefully, a good chuckle.

Meme Translation: “Shakira after paying 7 million Euros.” “Me after paying my electric bill.”

What does it meme? If you’ve been following celebrity news, which I highly recommend as a nice respite from the regular news, then you might know that beloved Colombian singer-songwriter Shakira – who, by the way, is responsible for teaching me, like, 20% of the Spanish I know – was charged by Spanish authorities for tax evasion. Luckily, she can pay the bill, and hey, at least she’s not a US citizen.

For most of us, even the regular bills hurt, more so lately as the peso continues to strengthen against the dollar. At least we can laugh about it, right?

Meme Translation: “Were you a good dog?” “Yes! I sat. I was loyal and provided love to my human family.” “And you, were you a good cat?” “You’re sitting in my chair.”

What does it meme? Y’all have probably figured out by now that I’m a sucker for cute animal memes. No matter what language they’re meowing in, cats seem to be known the world over for their entitled attitudes!

 

Meme Translation: “Me: I wasn’t even that drunk.” “My friend: Dude! You cried over the song La Vaca Lola, because she has a tail (a butt) and you don’t.”

What does it meme? “La Vaca Lola” is a beloved children’s song in preschools all over the country, and likely all over the Spanish-speaking world. It goes like this: “La vaca Lola, la vaca Lola, tiene cabeza y tiene cola, y hace muuu!It’s one of those songs that everybody knows because they learned it as kids, kind of like Twinkle Twinkle, Little Star. So what had that girl upset?

“Cola” can have a few meanings in Spanish, and one of them is, to put it politely, “butt.” I guess it hurts to feel outdone by a cartoon cow!

Meme Translation: “My preferred hobbies: – squeeze, but not strangle; – help the early riser; – make people so they come together; – know why I do things; – have perfect timing; – need another angel in Heaven; – work in mysterious ways.”

What does it meme? Chances are that you recognize some form of these phrases in English; many of them are ways that people describe the wisdom of their favorite god. In Spanish, some of them even rhyme! “Al que madruga, Dios le ayuda.” (In English, that’s “God helps the early riser,” though I prefer another version that I know for certain is true, “El que madruga, no encuentra nada abierto” – “The early riser finds nothing open.”)

Meme Translation: This meme, of course, has no words, unless you look at the signs. The first one says “Pasteles,” (cakes) and the second one likely says “Panadería” (bakery), or possibly, simply “Pan” (bread).

What does it meme? Ah, the famous bolillo: the bread roll you see adorning a tree placed in front of the baked goods section of a grocery store! Bolillos are the kind of bread often used to make tortas. They’re cheap, they’re sturdy, and they can last for a while. Go to Mexico City, and you’re likely to find all kinds of things stuffed between two slices of bolillo. In fact, chilangos (as Mexico City residents are often called), often get made fun of for putting pretty much any kind of food between two slices.

Meme Translation: (on screen) “How do you make a voodoo doll?” “Finally done…oh yeah, that feels good.”

What does it meme? There have been a lot of adorable voodoo doll memes in which kind acts are done to the dolls instead of evil ones, and they are just too sweet and wholesome not to share. Another of my favorites says something like, “Can whoever has my voodoo doll please give it a kiss on the forehead and put a little spending money in its pocket?”

Meme Translation: “She said to do whatever I wanted to her, so I made her my princess.” “Article 12 – In the United States of Mexico no titles of nobility shall be given.”

What does it meme? This is one of my favorite memes of all time and makes me literally laugh out loud. The top panel is practically nausea-inducing with that prince-rescuing-the-loose-woman-teaching-her-to-value-herself trope, so the panel of the Dwight Schrute-like judge saying, basically, “absolutely not” just floors me.

For anyone who’s had to deal with Mexican bureaucracy, most authorities’ lack of a sense of humor…and of romance, at that, is most certainly recognizable.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

A balance between art and nature, Tepoztlán’s sculpture garden

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One of the various sculpted fountains on the property shows how the natural surroundings interact with the sculptures. (Alejandro Linares)

Eduardo Olbés began his path to becoming a successful sculptor in his native Philippines. In his youth, he worked as an apprentice to a cabinet maker in Manila, then found his way to Godard University in Vermont, where he studied wood carving.

Life took Olbés to Mexico, where he developed his true passion – stone – preferring to call himself a pedrero (stone carver) rather than a sculptor. Upon arriving in the Pueblo Mágico of Tepoztlán in 1975 at age 24, he knew he had found the place to live and work the rest of his life. For over 40 years, he has produced works from his La Iguana de Oriente (Eastern Iguana) workshop, exhibiting in Mexico City, Manila, Los Angeles, New York and Barcelona. 

Volcán (1997) by Olbés topped with Tepoztlán cloud with Chalchitepetl in the background. (Alejandro Linares)

Olbés’ work is influenced by his origin and heritage but more so by the natural beauty of Tepotzlán’s mountains in northern Morelos. 

About a decade ago, Olbés decided to pay back the area so generous to him by establishing a sculpture park: Dilao.

In 2012, he found land “dripping with beauty,” the artist says, under the watchful grave of Chalchitepetl (Treasure Hill) at the entrance to Tepoztlán coming in from Mexico City. Dilao is from his native Tagalog and means “yellow,” referring to the wildflowers that carpet the site’s five hectares. He quickly began work reforesting much of it, likely saving the land from residential development. 

Dilao officially opened in November 2019, at the height of the wildflower season, featuring 80 works by Olbés himself and a select number of other artists whose work he admires and fits with the garden’s mission. 

Olbés in his La Iguana de Oriente workshop in Tepoztlan (courtesy Dilao/Eduardo Olbés)

However, not all of the garden’s artworks follow the same figurative aesthetics of Olbés. For example, Julio Martínez Barnetche’s work is more abstract and even didactic. Federico Silva’s work in metal tends to be geometric. Valentina Glez. Wohlers creates a mix of classical and whimsy furniture, and multidisciplinary artist Ivan Puig is regarded for his installation work. 

Olbés says that in the past, many sculptors’ work was intertwined with architecture, which formed the context. Much modern architecture leaves classical sculpture behind, so Olbés uses Dilao to show how the outdoors can provide the setting for three-dimensional art. “Dilao is a bridge between nature and art. It’s like a symbiotic relationship;” The plants and landscape contextualize the work, Olbés says. Much of the property allows wildflowers and grasses to grow exuberantly, cut only during the dry season for safety concerns. At the most intimate level, most sculptures are framed by carefully placed plants that create mini-sanctuaries,  inviting visitors to focus on the piece. 

There is no set path to follow in Dilao; in fact, part of the charm is to happen upon a sculpture as you wander. Not only do you get to view the pieces from however many angles you wish, but you are also free to touch them, despite the fact that many are made of semi-precious stones such as jadeite and onyx. 

Dilao is a private and independent initiative that relies on visitors and events to survive. In addition to the sculpture garden, it has an impressive outdoor pavilion with marble floors and tropical hardwood trunks to hold up the roof. A bar and restaurant called Las Nubes (The Clouds) has been added recently, and work on a new parking lot is set to begin. 

Portal Rosa (1995) of Texas pink granite by Olbés in the garden. (Alejandro Linares)

The site has hosted homages to Mexican artists, musical events, dance recitals, weddings and more. Still, Olbés is particularly interested in getting the general public into the site on Tepoztlan’s busy weekends to truly appreciate what the garden offers. Only a couple hundred visitors every weekend offset maintenance costs. 

Dilao is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday, rain or shine, with guided tours on Saturdays at noon. The general entrance fee is $100 pesos, which includes parking. 

Dilao has been compared to Edward James’ Surrealist Garden in Xilitla, but one crucial difference exists. Olbés conceived Dilao with a socially conscious perspective: “[Tepoztlán] has been my home for over 40 years and I have to care for it. Here, my children and grandchildren were born. I created Dilao because I care about Tepoztlán and [Dilao] is a letter [to the town] about how much I love it as an artist.” 

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Nut mixes: Always a crowd pleaser

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All of these nut mixes are perfect for gifting, too. (Unsplash)

I love having get-togethers with friends, whether it’s the holiday season or not. And while I can put together a multi-course, sit-down dinner for six and make it look easy, I’m not very good at making snack-type things – appetizers and munchies to eat before the main meal. Those I struggle with. 

Over the years, I’ve compiled a handful of tried-and-true recipes to help me with what seems like such a silly problem. Spiced nut mixes, whether savory or candied, are some of my mainstays. They’re easy to make, always delicious, seem very special, and everyone loves them. Plus, they’re a conversation starter!

Except for the Hot Honey Mix, all of these recipes use raw nuts that are spiced and then roasted in the oven at a low heat. Remember that nuts burn quickly, going from “not ready” to “oh no!” in the blink of an eye. Use a timer and keep a close watch. Because of their natural oil content, nuts continue to cook for a few minutes once you take them out of the oven. Err on the side of caution and do a taste test to check if they’re done.

All of these nut mixes are perfect for gifting, too. Pack in a pretty jar or cellophane bag tied with a ribbon, and you’re good to go. They’re easier to make than cookies and will be just as well-received. 

Molly’s Candied Pecans

  • 2 cups raw pecan halves
  • ½ cup packed light brown sugar 
  • 2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar, the best you can afford or find
  • 2 Tbsp. olive oil
  • ½ tsp. flake sea salt

Heat oven to 325F (165C). Spread pecan halves on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake about 10 minutes, until lightly toasted and fragrant; set aside. Boil brown sugar, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until mixture is foamy and slightly thickened, 2–3 minutes. Add pecans and cook, stirring constantly, until well coated, about 3 minutes. You want to cook the nuts in the syrup long enough that when they cool they will be crunchy. Spread on a prepared baking sheet and sprinkle with sea salt; let cool completely. Break into bite-size pieces before serving. Try not to eat them all at once.

Mexican Spiced Chocolate Pecans

  • ½ cup dark brown sugar or grated piloncillo
  • ¼ cup cocoa powder
  • 2 Tbsp. minced dark chocolate
  • 2 tsp. kosher salt
  • ½ tsp. cinnamon
  • ½ tsp. cayenne 
  • ¼ tsp. nutmeg
  • 1/8 tsp. allspice
  • 1/8 tsp. ground ginger
  • 1 large egg white
  • 4 cups raw pecans (about 1 lb.)

Preheat oven to 300F (150C). Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a medium bowl, stir together sugar, cocoa powder, chocolate, salt, cinnamon, cayenne, nutmeg, allspice, and ginger.

In a large bowl, lightly beat egg white until slightly foamy. Stir in spiced sugar until a smooth batter forms (it will start out looking dry but will loosen as you stir). Fold in pecans until evenly coated. Spread glazed pecans in a single even layer on the prepared baking sheet and bake until nuts are lightly toasted, about 25 minutes.

Let cool, stirring nuts every few minutes to prevent sticking. Once cool, break up any remaining clumps and serve. Nuts can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a week.

Perfect Nut Mix. (Unsplash)

Hot Honey Nut Mix

  • 4 cups unsalted, roasted whole nuts (such as cashews, pecans, pistachios or a mix)
  • 1 cup seeds (such as pumpkin, sesame, millet, quinoa, sunflower, nigella or a mix)
  • ¼ cup honey
  • 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter or coconut oil
  • 1 tsp. red-pepper flakes or cayenne powder
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. brown or turbinado sugar
  • Optional: ½ tsp. cinnamon, ½ tsp. ground ginger

Heat oven to 325F (165C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, combine nuts and seeds. Stir in cinnamon and ginger, if using.

In a small saucepan on the stove or in a bowl in a microwave, combine honey, butter, red pepper flakes or cayenne and ½ tsp. salt. Heat until butter melts. 

Pour the honey butter mixture over the nuts and seeds and stir until well coated. Dump onto the prepared baking sheet and spread out in an even layer. You want the nuts spread out as much as possible.

Bake, stirring occasionally, until nuts are tacky and look and smell toasted, 20-25 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately sprinkle over the remaining ½ tsp. salt and all of the sugar. Let cool on the baking sheet, then transfer to a bowl and serve. Store in an airtight container up to four days. Makes about 6 cups.

Smoky Candied Almonds

  • ½ cup dark brown sugar or grated piloncillo
  • 2 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 tsp. smoked paprika
  • ½ tsp. cayenne pepper
  • ½ tsp. Old Bay seasoning
  • ½ tsp. black pepper
  • 1 large egg white
  • 4 cups whole, raw, skin-on almonds (about 1¼ lbs.)

Preheat oven to 300°F (150C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or grease with oil or nonstick cooking spray. In a medium bowl, stir together sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne, Old Bay, and black pepper.

In a large bowl, lightly beat egg white until slightly foamy. Stir in spiced sugar until a smooth batter forms (it starts out looking dry but loosens as you stir). Fold in almonds until evenly coated. Spread glazed almonds in a single even layer on the prepared baking sheet and bake until nuts are lightly toasted about 25 minutes.

Let cool, stirring nuts every few minutes to prevent sticking. Once cool, break up any remaining clumps and serve. Nuts can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

‘Tis the season for poinsettias, the Christmas flowers native to Mexico

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The Spanish word for poinsettias translates as Christmas Eve, after the time of year in which this Mexican native flower blooms. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Thank you, Mexico!

Thank you, Mexico?!

Indeed, a big reason why it looks like Christmas every December is the appearance of thousands if not millions of bright red poinsettias — Mexico’s gift to the Yuletide world.

Called nochebuena in Spanish, the flowering plant is native to Mexico and is grown predominantly in six states and the federal district. According to the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (SADER), the leading producer by state is Morelos followed by Michoacán, Mexico City and Puebla.

How poinsettias became a Christmastime favorite

Before the arrival of the Spanish in 1519, the plant was ornamental and grown in the gardens of rulers such as Moctezuma II and Nezahualcóyotl.

A poinsettia shrub 3 or 4 meters tall in a park
The most commercial poinsettias are small, the shrub can actually grow up to 4 meters tall. (Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0)

Many cultures in Mesoamerican considered red to be related to power, and the Mexica (Aztecs) used poinsettia pigment to dye textiles. In those times, green parts of the plant were used to increase breast milk production and help fight skin infections.

Franciscan monks from Spain used the flower to decorate their altars in Mexico and started calling it nochebuena because it bloomed during the Christmas season (Christmas Eve is known as nochebuena in Spanish).

Many of those monks were based in what is the current state of Guerrero, which Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. minister to Mexico, visited at Christmastime 1825. Also an amateur botanist, Poinsett (for whom the plant was named, duh) sent some specimens to the Bartram Botanical Garden in Philadelphia.

When the poinsettias were exhibited there in 1829, they were a huge hit, and their star status grew even more after they were introduced in Europe. They spread from country to country and became a highly recognizable icon of Christmas.

White and red poinsettias in a netted growing structure.
The poinsettia flower’s roots trace back to the state of Guerrero, Mexico, though most of the country’s Christmas flowers are grown in Morelos. (Dassaev Téllez Adame/Cuartoscuro)

How many varieties are there, and where are they grown? 

Although nearly 100 varieties of poinsettia are known, SADER said no more than 30 varieties are grown in Mexico where the red flower accounts for 90% of production. There are also white, yellow, pink and salmon colors, as well as striped and marbled varieties.

In the wild, it grows in states along the Pacific Coast from Sinaloa to Chiapas, and a genetic study traced its roots back to northern Guerrero. It likes dry, tropical forests and altitudes between 1,000 and 2,000 meters.

Growers usually plant seeds in May, as the plants take approximately six months to reach maturity. However, if a cutting, sprig or small plant is used, growth time is reduced to six to 11 weeks.

In Mexico, the plant is also called Christmas Flower, the Star of Christmas, Easter Flower or Easter Fire Flower (it often blooms around Easter time). In Nahuatl, its name is cuetlaxochitl, which means “flower that withers.” Euphorbia pulcherrima is its scientific name.

Poinsettia plants are shrubs or small trees. Its flowers are made up of red bracts (modified leaves), which are often confused with petals.

Poinsettias in an urban area, with Mexico City's statue of the Angel of Independence in the background
Native nochebuenas decorate avenues of the nation’s capitals ahead of the holiday season. (@timeoutmexico/X)

Where to buy them in Mexico during the holiday season

One of the best places is in Mexico City at the Festival de Flores de Nochebuena, which runs through Dec. 17. Thousands will be on sale on Paseo de la Reforma Avenue.

Although one can purchase poinsettias pretty much anywhere at this time of year, one of the advantages to the festival is being able to buy directly from members of the estimated 5,000 rural families — including producers, day laborers and merchants — in the federal district that depend on poinsettias for their livelihood.

The festival will have various varieties, with prices generally range from 20 to 90 pesos (US $1.16 to $5.24), according to an organizer.

In all of Mexico, 2022 production of poinsettias was 21.5 million plants with a value of 902.7 million pesos (US $52.5 million), according to SIAP. That was an increase of 24.2% over the 17.3 million plants of 2021.

With reports from El Economista, Infobae and National Geographic en Español