Neos airlines' planned weekly flights from Milan's international airport to Cozumel marks the island's first-ever direct air route from anywhere in Europe. (Neos)
Mexico is set to expand its international connectivity this coming winter with a new route between Milan and Cozumel operated by the Italian airline Neos, and three new connections from Mexico City to the United States offered by Aeroméxico.
The flight between Milan’s Malpensa Airport and Cozumel will begin operations on Dec. 24, with weekly Thursday flights operating onboard a Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft.
Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama made the announcement of the first-of-its-kind route from Milan to Cozumel: “We continue to open new doors to the world so that more visitors — travelers of all kinds — can discover the beauty of Cozumel.” (Mara Lezama)
Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama referred to the new service as the island’s first direct air connection with Europe.
“We continue to open new doors to the world so that more visitors — travelers of all kinds— can discover the beauty of Cozumel, the ‘Island of the Swallows,’ and everything our Mexican Caribbean has to offer,” Lezama said.
She highlighted the expansion of Cozumel’s airport, which includes a new terminal. According to local media, the airport reported 65% completion in July and is expected to be operational by early 2027.
Aeroméxico’s expansion in the US
Aeroméxico has scheduled daily flights from Mexico City International Airport (AICM) to Santa Ana/Orange County, California; Fort Lauderdale, Florida; and Portland, Oregon.
According to the global aviation analytics company Cirium, cited by Aviation Club Center, the services are set to begin on Jan. 10, 14, and 21, 2027, respectively, using Boeing 737 aircraft. These dates are subject to change before operations commence.
The expansion follows the U.S. Department of Transportation’s decision on Oct. 16 to lift restrictions that had prevented expanded operations from AICM and AIFA. The dispute centered on the allocation of airport slots and the relocation of cargo flights to Felipe Ángeles Airport.
Aeroméxico’s three new services will bring the airline’s total to 21 weekly departures to the U.S.
Guadalupe Taddei announced her resignation on Sunday, marking the first time since the Federal Electoral Institute (the INE's predecessor) was founded in 1990 that a president of the electoral authority has resigned. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)
Amid allegations of corruption, the president of the National Electoral Institute (INE), Guadalupe Taddei, announced her resignation on Sunday.
“After deep reflection, I have decided to present my resignation tomorrow, Oct. 26, to the Chamber of Deputies of the Congress of the Union,” Taddei said in a statement.
#BoletínINE 📄 | Mensaje de la Consejera Presidenta del Instituto Nacional Electoral, Guadalupe Taddei Zavala.
“… This decision reflects my conviction that protecting the [National Electoral] Institute and allowing it to continue fulfilling its constitutional mission, must always take precedence over any temporary or personal interest,” she said.
It is the first time since the Federal Electoral Institute (the INE’s predecessor) was founded in 1990 that a president of the electoral authority has resigned. Luis Carlos Ugalde, a former chief of the electoral authority, told Bloomberg Línea that both allegations of corruption against an electoral chief and Taddei’s resignation as INE president are “unprecedented.”
Taddei’s announcement came after Mexican media outlets, including Reforma, El Universal and Latinus, reported last week on alleged irregularities in INE contracts and her ties to businessman José Alfredo Hernández Casillas. The outgoing INE president reportedly has a close personal relationship with Hernández, whose family’s companies have received lucrative INE contracts.
In an article published on Monday under the headline “Taddei is leaving,” the newspaper Reforma noted that it documented how Hernández — who is linked to various electoral materials suppliers — “obtained [electoral authority] contracts since Taddei presided over the electoral organization of Sonora” between 2014 and 2021.
Taddei’s “closeness” to Hernández allowed the latter to obtain contracts awarded by high-ranking INE officials, Reforma reported. The newspaper also reported that Jonathan Navarrete Torres, an employee of Hernández, was on the INE’s payroll as Taddei’s chauffeur without actually working in that role.
Taddei’s ties to businessman José Alfredo Hernández Casillas are the subject of scrutiny. (Social media)
In addition, Reforma reported on Monday that it had “revealed” that seven INE suppliers remained under investigation by the federal government’s Financial Intelligence Unit for money laundering and “simulation” in bidding processes. The allegation is that seven companies linked to Hernández and his brother feigned competition for contracts awarded by the INE and the State Electoral Institute in Sonora under Taddei’s leadership.
Reforma also noted that video footage had emerged showing Taddei and two of her children socializing with Hernández.
“One video filmed by the businessman shows a son of Taddei [Jorge Francisco Piñeda Taddei] enjoying a stay at the most expensive hotel in Paris,” Reforma reported. “‘Paris at your feet, young man,’ the businessman says in the video, boasting about the gift.”
The ASF launches an investigation
In light of the various media reports about alleged corruption at the INE, the Federal Auditor’s Office (ASF) announced on Friday that it had begun an investigation into allegations regarding the “improper use of public resources.”
In a statement, the ASF said the investigation “covers” the INE, state-based electoral authorities, companies, public servants and suppliers “that are related to each other.”
The ASF said there is “already evidence … related to irregularities in several contracts” as well as “conflicts of interest, collusion and triangulation of resources.”
It said it would investigate allegations involving the INE with “complete independence, objectivity and technical rigor.”
“A Mexico without corruption is possible,” concluded the ASF statement.
Taddei: ‘Each allegation must be examined with evidence’
In her statement on Sunday, Taddei acknowledged the accusations that have been leveled against her.
“I am aware of the allegations that have circulated in the media and on social media in recent days, including rumors, fabrications, leaks and accounts whose authenticity, context and purpose — as in all cases — must be verified and corroborated,” she said.
“… Each allegation must be examined with evidence and through institutional channels,” Taddei said.
In a separate statement on Saturday, she said that “no hiring process, public servant or supplier is above the law.”
Taddei also said that some high-ranking INE officials had been stood down, but she didn’t name them.
The outgoing INE president said on Sunday she was resigning “with calmness and dignity” after dedicating 33 years of her life “to electoral service in Mexico.”
Taddei said her decision “does not relieve anyone of the duty to clarify, with transparency, rigor and due process, the events that must be investigated.”
Guadalupe Taddei became president of the INE in April 2023 during the presidency of Andrés Manuel López Obrador. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)
The 63-year-old Sonora native began what was supposed to be a nine-year term at the INE in early 2023. Mexico News Daily reported at the time that Taddei had family links to both the federal government and the ruling Morena party.
The opposition National Action Party (PAN) said at the time that it was “completely unacceptable that the person who seeks to preside over our electoral umpire is clearly linked to Morena.”
“If contracts were rigged, we are very concerned that elections will be rigged as well,” said PAN national president Jorge Romero.
Sheinbaum endorses Taddei’s decision to resign
At her Monday morning press conference, President Claudia Sheinbaum described Taddei’s decision to step down as INE president as “good.”
“… Obviously, an investigation has to be carried out. … There has to be an audit in order to review the suspicions or the allegations there have been regarding abuses or privileges within the INE,” she said.
Sheinbaum stressed that there will be no interruption to the INE’s work despite Taddei’s decision to resign. One of the INE’s electoral councilors will head up the electoral authority until the Chamber of Deputies appoints a new president.
The INE’s main focus is currently the federal, state and municipal elections that will be held on June 6, 2027.
A partial blockade is slowing down traffic in Toluca, México state. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Truckers from around the country are protesting and blocking roadways to demand greater security, primarily disrupting traffic at points of entry to the Mexico City Metropolitan Area and in the states of Veracruz and Oaxaca.
Most protests are partial blockades, although a total blockade has been reported along national highway 135D between Tehuacán and Oaxaca.
⚠️ PRESENCIA DE MANIFESTANTES ⚠️
Se informa a las personas usuarias que se registra presencia de manifestantes en diversos puntos de las autopistas administradas por CAPUFE.
🔴 CON CIERRE A LA CIRCULACIÓN:
🔘 Autopista Tehuacán – Oaxaca, Plaza de Cobro Tehuacán, en ambos sentidos.
🟢 SIN INTERRUPCIÓN A LA CIRCULACIÓN:
🔘 Autopista Puebla – Acatzingo, km 134 (Parque Industrial Chachapa), dirección Acatzingo.
🔘 Autopista Nuevo Teapa – Cosoleacaque, km 19 (Poblado San Francisco Tierra Nueva), dirección Cosoleacaque.
🔘 #AutMéxicoPuebla, Plaza de Cobro San Martín, dirección Puebla.
🔘 Autopista Acatzingo – Cd. Mendoza, Plaza de Cobro Esperanza, en dirección Acatzingo.
🔘 Libramiento Oriente de Saltillo, Plaza de Cobro La Carbonera, dirección Puerto México.
🔘 Autopista Guadalajara – Colima, Plaza de Cobro Acatlán, dirección Colima.
🔘 Libramiento Cuernavaca, km 93, dirección CDMX.
🔘 Autopista Cd. Mendoza – Córdoba, km 269 (Poblado San Cristóbal), ambos sentidos.
🔘 Autopista Tehuacán – Oaxaca, Plaza de Cobro Huitzo, en ambos sentidos.
Cualquier cambio o novedad se dará a conocer en nuestros medios de contacto ☎️ 074 | 𝐗 @CAPUFE.
Over the weekend, national trucking associations said the indefinite national strike could involve as many as 1 million trucks, while warning the public of potential disruptions to the supply of goods and fuel.
Industry representatives have sought to explain the reasons for their strike action, telling the media they “are not seeking to harm families, but rather want answers to their legitimate demands.”
Truckers face what they describe as a “double imposition” — paying steep taxes and high private toll fees, only to receive low-quality, dangerous highway infrastructure in return.
The truckers also object to proposed changes to the toll tax incentive, urging President Claudia Sheinbaum to review the proposal in the 2027 federal budget.
The budget submitted by the Finance Ministry last month would slash fiscal incentives for the freight transportation sector by lowering the annual corporate revenue limit required to qualify for the highway toll tax credit from 300 million pesos down to 250 million pesos.
The lower threshold would impact mid-to-large freight and transport companies making between 250 million and 300 million pesos annually by locking them out of the incentive program.
The National Chamber of Freight Transportation, the largest trucking association in Mexico, claims that the sector is already suffering due to soaring diesel costs and high toll fees. They warn that removing the toll tax safety net will dramatically increase operational costs for dozens of companies, potentially forcing some into bankruptcy.
They also argue it is unfair for the government to strip away tax credits while treating organized crime’s grip on transport routes as “an acceptable condition of doing business.”
Through September, the sector has recorded 1,105 cargo truck robberies and 15 driver fatalities this year.
Truckers previously blockaded highways in April to highlight the need for stronger road security, teaming up with farmers demanding fairer conditions for agricultural producers. They also staged similar actions in November 2025, again teaming up with farmers citing rural sector grievances.
"Many congratulations to President Lula and the people of Brazil. It's a breath of fresh air for Latin America and the Caribbean. We're very, very happy," Sheinbaum said on Monday following Sunday's presidential election in Brazil. (Saúl López/Presidencia)
Sheinbaum’s mañanera in 60 seconds
🇧🇷 Sheinbaum celebrates Lula’s victory in Brazil: The president said she was “very, very happy” about Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva’s win in Sunday’s presidential run-off, calling it “a breath of fresh air for Latin America and the Caribbean.” She described the result as “the defeat of a rightist movement” and said Lula’s administration is “similar” to hers. Sheinbaum said she would speak with Lula at midday Monday to congratulate him.
🗳️ Sheinbaum endorses Taddei’s decision to resign from the INE: Sheinbaum described Guadalupe Taddei’s decision to step down as National Electoral Institute (INE) president as “good.” She said an investigation and an audit are needed to review the allegations of abuses of power or privileges while serving at the electoral authority. Taddei announced her resignation amid corruption allegations related to INE contracts awarded to companies linked to José Alfredo Hernández Casillas, who is reportedly close to the outgoing INE president. Sheinbaum stressed that the INE’s work will continue without interruption ahead of the June 6, 2027 elections.
📈 Sheinbaum touts August economic growth: The president called year-over-year economic growth of 3.5% in August “very good news.” She said construction, including housing and public infrastructure projects, helped drive the expansion, with construction activity up 7.9% annually in August, according to INEGI. Sheinbaum also pointed to electronics production as a growth driver.
Lula’s surprise victory over Flávio Bolsonaro, son of former Brazilian President Jair Bolsonaro, halted a right-wing wave that has recently swept over Latin America.
Sheinbaum made it abundantly clear that the triumph of the 80-year-old incumbent Brazilian president pleased her. She said she would speak with Lula at midday Monday to congratulate him.
Lula’s victory in Brazil after finishing behind Bolsonaro in the first round earlier this month means that the Sheinbaum administration retains an important ideological ally in the region at a time when various other Latin American countries, including Argentina, Chile, Colombia and El Salvador, are ruled by right-wing governments.
“We are happy!” Sheinbaum declared at the very start of her mañanera as she made an L sign with her thumb and index finger.
“We’re very happy with Lula’s triumph in Brazil,” she said.
“Many congratulations to President Lula and the people of Brazil. It’s a breath of fresh air for Latin America and the Caribbean. We’re very, very happy,” Sheinbaum said.
Later in the press conference, she described Lula’s victory as “very important.”
“It’s the triumph of a president, of a people’s movement, of a government that represents its people,” Sheinbaum said.
“It’s the defeat of a rightist movement,” she added.
🇧🇷 La presidenta Claudia Sheinbaum expresó su gran alegría por el triunfo electoral de Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva en Brasil, calificándolo como “una bocanada de aire fresco” para América Latina y el Caribe.
Destacó que esta victoria representa el triunfo de un movimiento popular sobre uno de derecha y reconoce el trabajo del pueblo brasileño para revertir el resultado de la primera vuelta.
Asimismo, mencionó que sostendrá una llamada telefónica con Lula para felicitarlo y que evaluarían el momento oportuno para retomar proyectos conjuntos, incluyendo la colaboración entre PEMEX y Petrobras.
Sheinbaum described Lula’s administration as “similar” to hers before saying that “it makes us feel very happy that a movement like the one Lula represents in Brazil won.”
Sheinbaum endorses Taddei’s decision to resign
Sheinbaum described Taddei’s decision to step down as INE president as “good.”
She noted Taddei made her decision amid allegations of corruption.
“Obviously, an investigation has to be carried out. … There has to be an audit in order to review the suspicions or the allegations there have been regarding abuses or privileges within the INE,” Sheinbaum said.
Sheinbaum stressed that there will be no interruption to the INE’s work despite Taddei’s decision to resign. The electoral authority’s main focus is currently the federal, state and municipal elections that will be held on June 6, 2027. The “electoral process” ahead of those elections officially began last month.
Sheinbaum touts strong economic growth in August
Sheinbaum said that year-over-year economic growth of 3.5% in August was “very good news.”
Sheinbaum noted that construction, including housing and public infrastructure projects, is helping to drive growth. Construction activity increased 7.9% in August compared to the same month of last year, according to INEGI.
The Cordillera Challenge is a 130-kilometer, multi-day endurance race that crosses some of El Salvador’s most stunning natural landscapes. (La Cordillera Challenge/Facebook)
A delegation of high-performance Mexican athletes will travel to El Salvador to participate in next month’s Cordillera Challenge, a 130-kilometer mountain race with over 6,300 meters of positive elevation gain.
The participation of the four runners is part of a government-sponsored agenda seeking to strengthen sporting and cultural ties between both countries.
María Lorena Ramírez Hernández, an Indigenous ultramarathon runner originally from the Sierra Tarahumara in the state of Chihuahua, will lead the delegation.
The Cordillera Challenge — a 130-kilometer, multi-day endurance race taking place from Nov. 6-8 — will traverse some of El Salvador’s most stunning natural landscapes, including Lago de Coatepeque (a 115-meter-deep crater lake), the Izalco and Ataco volcanoes and the coastal sandbar known as Barra de Santiago.
Mirna Beatriz de la Cruz, leader of México Imparable, a government initiative that links sport and cultural identity to promote athletic talent and give visibility to Mexico’s Indigenous peoples, will also attend the 3-day event.
Upon establishing México Imparable in August 2025, President Claudia Sheinbaum described the initiative as “a symbolic action that represents the strength and resilience of all the Mexican people, particularly the indigenous communities.”
México Imparable’s agenda in El Salvador includes the photo exhibition “Mexico, Land of Champions,” which will be inaugurated on Nov. 3 at the National Library in San Salvador.
The exhibition — sponsored by the Mexican Embassy — includes images of daily life, traditions and the rich cultural heritage of the Sierra Tarahumara’s Indigenous communities.
Through portraits of its inhabitants, their customs, their relationship with the land and their connection to sport, the exhibit seeks to introduce the Salvadoran public to the cultural diversity of the Rarámuri and highlight their contribution to Mexico’s heritage.
From stone heads to silver dollars and tacos to tequila, these are 10 objects that define Mexico's history. (Mexico News Daily)
In January 2010, Neil MacGregor of the British Museum started to broadcast his new series, “A History of the World in 100 Objects.” It was a magnificent success, and a bestselling book followed. Since then, there have been numerous other titles, from “The History of Football in 100 Objects” to “A History of Food in 101 Objects.”
The idea is such fun that MND asked contributor Bob Pateman to put together his very own “A History of Mexico in 10 Objects.”
1. The Olmec stone heads — the start of Mexican civilizations
Colossal Olmec head statue, now preserved at Mexico’s Xalapa Museum of Anthropology. (Utilisateur: Olmec/Wikimedia Commons)
The Olmecs, the Mexican mother culture, thrived in the lowlands of southeastern Mexico between 1500 and 400 B.C. San Lorenzo and La Venta became the biggest communities on the continent, the builders of palaces and pyramids.
The most striking of their artwork was the giant heads carved from boulders that had been brought from the distant Sierra de los Tuxtlas mountains. Mysterious and haunting, 17 of these heads have been discovered.
Item selected: Colossal Head 1 was the first to be discovered and is the largest, at 2.84 meters (9 feet 4 inches) and 25.3 metric tons. With its direct stare and elaborate headdress, it is also one of the most haunting.
Where it is: Colossal Head 1 can be seen in the Xalapa Museum of Anthropology in the city of Xalapa, Veracruz.
2. The Mexica statue of Coatlicue
Mexica statue of the god Coatlicue, carved during the 15th century. (“Luidger”/Wikimedia Commons)
Pre-Hispanic Mexico was a mosaic of different societies that interacted through trade, politics and war. The Mexica flourished for little more than 200 years, but during that time they acquired previously unheard-of levels of wealth and power.
There is no lack of amazing objects to represent them, with gems ranging from feather headdresses to giant stone calendars.
Item selected: The giant statue of the earth and mother goddess Coatlicue. This was carved around A.D. 1500 at the height of Mexica power. It stands 2.5 meters tall and weighs between 2 and 3 metric tons. It is an interwoven collage of snakes, claws, skulls, and human hearts and hands. Threatening and powerful, Coatlicue was clearly a god you didn’t mess with!
Where it is: The National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
3. A memory of a lost empire — the Florentine Codex
Although the Mexica did not have an alphabetic writing system, they produced wonderful books that recorded their myths, economic records, history and laws in pictograms and glyphs. Written on bark, skin or cloth, they were targeted by the Spanish, and only a handful escaped the flames.
Item selected: Ironically, the Spanish, who tried so hard to burn all the Mexica “books,” produced one of the finest. Franciscan friar Bernardino de Sahagún worked with Nahua elders and artists to document the culture and history of the Mexica people. It was a mammoth work, 2,500 pages organized into 12 books, recording the story of an empire that was in the process of being destroyed.
Where it is: The Florentine Codex is housed in the Laurentian Library of Florence.
4. A Spanish silver dollar
The Spanish “piece of eight,” mined and minted in Mexico, became a globally accepted currency as early as the 16th century. (Bank of Canada Museum/Instagram)
The Spanish colonies in the Americas became rich from their silver mines, and for 350 years Mexico led the way. Much of the raw metal was turned into coins known as the Spanish dollar or, later, the Spanish peso. The amount of silver in each coin was equal to eight Spanish reales, and for smaller purchases, a coin could be cut into bits, which is why pirates referred to them as pieces of eight.
Mexico sat at the center of an international trade network that stretched from China to the Ottoman Empire, and the Spanish dollar became the world’s first international currency.
Item selected: Produced in the millions, the coins can be acquired for as little as US $100. However, everything depends on rarity and the history of the coin, and the highest auction price is US $587,500 for a coin minted in Mexico in 1538. This was the first dollar-sized silver coin ever struck in the New World, and this particular example was salvaged from the underwater wreckage of the Golden Fleece, a vessel that sank in the northern Caribbean around 1550.
Where it is: Only three coins of this standard are known to exist, and all are in the possession of unknown private collectors.
On Sept. 16, 1810, the Roman Catholic priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla entered the parish church in Dolores and rang the bell to gather the villagers. This is seen as the symbolic start of an 11-year war that would bring Mexican independence from Spain.
Every year, the bell is rung on the night of Sept. 15 as the president of Mexico starts Mexico’s Independence Day celebration.
Item selected: The bell dates to 1768 and was cast in bronze in the small town of Dolores. It is 1.77 meters in height and weighs approximately 750 kilograms.
Where it is: Since 1896, the bell has hung above the central balcony of the Palacio Nacional.
6. The world’s oldest tequila bottle
Tequila is a billion-dollar industry in Mexico, and the drink is deeply woven into national culture. (Gobierno de México)
Tequila can trace its roots back to the drink pulque. The Spanish brought in the technology to distill a clearer, more alcoholic version, which became known as mezcal.
This was displayed at the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago, where it was labeled as “mezcal from the village of Tequila.” The name was reduced to simply tequila, and a legend was born.
Today, the tequila industry is worth around US $12 billion, and the drink is deeply interwoven into Mexican history and culture.
Item selected: The oldest known tequila bottle. Before 1880, tequila was sold in large wooden barrels to bars or to regional distributors, and you took it home in your own bottle or jug. A José Cuervo bottle dating to 1905 is the oldest verified surviving bottle of tequila.
Where it is: Displayed in The Tequila House in Parral, Chihuahua, as part of a collection of more than 3,000 vintage bottles.
7. Looking good! — A mariachi outfit
Pedro Infante (center) in the iconic charro suit he wore in the 1955 film, “Los Gavilanes.” (Google Arts and Culture)
Mariachi music traces its origins to Jalisco, emerging from a combination of Spanish strings and Mexican folk music with just a trace of African influence.
The first mariachi bands performed in the simple white cotton shirts, trousers and leather sandals of the farms, but during the early 1900s, musicians started to adopt the dandy dress of the Mexican cowboy. Costumes reached a new height in the 1940s when mariachi bands appeared in Mexican movies.
Item selected: The iconic mariachi costume is the black charro suit and tejana hat that Pedro Infante wore in the 1955 movie “Los Gavilanes.”
Where it is: A collection of authentic costumes, hats and cinematic memorabilia — including the famous mariachi outfit — is on display in the Museo El Rincón de Pedro Infante, in the actor’s hometown of Mazatlán.
8. A painting from Mexico’s most beloved artist
“Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird” is a famous 1940 painting by Frida Kahlo. (Harry Ransom Center)
Mexico has produced some wonderful artists, from the masterful landscapes of José María Velasco to the blending of styles and cultures in the work of Rufino Tamayo. However, nobody has captured the love of the country more than Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, and, as time goes by, it is Frida who is emerging as the real superstar of the partnership.
Her paintings have pride of place in art galleries around the world, and the auction record for one of her paintings stands at US $54.7 million for her 1940 self-portrait “The Dream (The Bed).”
Item selected: “Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird.” Painted in 1940, this is a complex work full of symbols. The thorn necklace is a reference to both Christ and her own pain. While the hummingbird is usually a symbol of love, this one is dead and still, a reflection of Frida’s own disastrous relationships. With its colors, animals and plants and the artist’s simple peasant dress, there is also something notably “Mexican” about the work.
Where it is: “Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird” is in the permanent collection of the Harry Ransom Center at the University of Texas at Austin.
9. Tacos — the food that fuels Mexico
The origins of the taco are still debated, but Mexico’s beloved comfort food favorite is thought to date to the 18th century. (Jeswin Thomas/Unsplash)
The origins of the taco are debated. Some argue that they predate the arrival of the Spanish; others that the idea came across from Spain, perhaps with miners or even with Hernán Cortés himself.
Whatever the origins, there is nothing more Mexican than a small corn or wheat tortilla filled with a piping hot and juicy filling. It is the food that fuels the country every morning.
Item selected: What represents Mexican street food better than small, semi-mobile taco stands? It is not only a place to eat, but a spot to stand and chat.
Where it is: We are looking for a small stand with umbrellas, a few plastic chairs and a bright advertising sign. Shouldn’t be too hard to find!
Sport has a special place in Mexican society, from bullfights to lucha libre to the passion generated by big soccer games. Sport has also helped Mexico stake its place on the world stage, hosting the 1968 Olympics and three World Cup tournaments.
If there is one sport that is special to Mexicans, it is boxing, and for many, the greatest Mexican fighter of them all is Julio César Chávez. Over a 25-year career, he was a six-time world champion across three different weight classes. To get there, he had to go through many personal challenges, the kind of background that endears a fighter to Mexican fans.
Item selected: A world championship belt. When British fighter Tom Cribb defeated his American challenger, Tom Molineaux, in the early 1800s, King George III presented Cribb with the first championship belt in boxing history. There are no pictures of the gift, but it is said to have been made from lion skin with a silver buckle. This started a tradition that continues today, with boxers receiving a championship belt on winning a world title.
Where it is: Two of Chávez’s six belts are believed to have gone to private collectors. Four remain in his private collection.
Bob Patemanlived in Mexico for six years. He is a librarian and teacher with a Master’s Degree in History.
FIL Guadalajara, Latin America's premier book fair, returns to the metro area in November. (FIL Guadalajara)
Exciting music and book festivals are coming to town, while city leaders commit to addressing a critical shortcoming in Guadalajara: the lack of green spaces for public recreation.
A new urban park is coming to land that once housed the Oblatos prison
The Guadalajara City Council recently announced that it will renovate this public land with the aim of creating a new urban forest, with designated areas for sports facilities and family fun.
This initiative is critical to address the dire shortage of parks and other green spaces for residents’ enjoyment in the Guadalajara Metro Area (GMA). On World Environment Day in 2019, María Guadalupe Garibay Chávez of the University of Guadalajara shared findings that the GMA has a mere 1.4 square meters per resident of public green space, falling well short of the World Health Organization’s recommended 9 square meters per resident.
The city plans to invest more than 100 million pesos (US $4.9 million) in the project, with work to be carried out in phases so that park activities can continue during construction.
One of the most visible — and welcome — changes will be the elimination of vast areas of concrete. The project calls for removing approximately 6,300 square meters of concrete, with more than 600 trees planted in its place.
While the construction of a new swimming pool is a showpiece, the project also calls for the renovation of multipurpose courts, the frontenis area and the baseball diamond. There will be new spaces for calisthenics and boxing, with other areas repurposed to create children’s play areas.
In addition to sports facilities, the new park will provide a variety of areas to socialize and gather with friends and family. Park trails and walkways will be renovated, with the goal of expanding the availability of green spaces for city residents.
Outside park boundaries, improvements are planned for street lighting, sidewalks and intersections to make accessing the park safer and easier.
The new park, which has not yet been named, will be located at Calle Sebastián Allende 200, Colonia La Penal, on Guadalajara’s east side near the Cristóbal de Oñate station on Line 2 of the light rail.
The FIL Guadalajara prepares to welcome Salman Rushdie as keynote speaker
Acclaimed author Salman Rushdie will be the keynote speaker at the 2026 FIL Guadalajara. (Elena Ternovaja/Wikimedia Commons)
The FIL Guadalajara, Latin America’s premier book festival, has an exciting program in the works for its 40th edition. British American writer Salman Rushdie is slated to open the program with a keynote lecture Nov. 28 at the Juan Rulfo Auditorium of Expo Guadalajara.
The announcement was made earlier this month by the FIL’s director, Marisol Schulz, who noted that this year’s festival will encompass “more than 3,000 activities that over nine days will center the conversation on literature, thought, scientific outreach, art, music, film, gastronomy, comics, the publishing business, programs for professionals and, of course, the formation of readers.”
In total, more than 900 authors from 41 countries are expected to take part in this year’s FIL, where Italy returns as the guest country of honor after 18 years.
This year’s FIL will also pay tribute to Juan Rulfo, 40 years after his death, with an immersive pavilion devoted to the universe of “Pedro Páramo” and a panel featuring Juan Carlos and Juan Pablo Rulfo, writer Élmer Mendoza and photographer Rogelio Cuéllar.
Nicaraguan writer Gioconda Belli is set to receive the 2026 FIL Prize for Literature in Romance Languages, and Italian author Alessandro Baricco will open the Salón Literario Carlos Fuentes.
No tickets will be sold specifically for Rushdie’s keynote address. Entry requires a general admission ticket to the FIL paired with mandatory online pre-registration due to the strict security protocols necessary to ensure the author’s safety.
Keep an eye on the official FIL Guadalajara website or its press announcements as the fair approaches for the exact date the pre-registration link goes live.
For more information about the general program and specific events, visit the website’s calendar page.
Cost: General admission tickets are available online from the FIL website or in person at FIL’s main office, with prices starting from 40 pesos (US $2) for adults and 30 pesos (US $1.50) for children.
Returning to Guadalajara next month for its fifth edition is the Día de Campo festival. Unlike the typical music festival experience these days, Día de Campo bills itself as an intimate, low-key event — a chill day in the park with fantastic music, not a drunken bacchanal.
This year’s festival is moving to a new venue, Titanes GDL, which sits across from Parque Metropolitano. It is reachable by taxi from downtown Guadalajara in about 20 minutes.
Headlining Día de Campo this year is Santa Pirata, a new side project by Arcade Fire’s frontman Win Butler. The band includes Haitian musician and Arcade Fire member Paul Beaubrun and DJ Cosmo Gonik. Santa Pirata blends DJ sets with live instrumentation, featuring Butler on drums and Beaubrun on bass and guitar.
Also performing this year in its Guadalajara debut is Chet Faker. Australian musician Nick Murphy has been performing under the moniker Chet Faker for the past 15 years, combining soul, R&B and electronic music with catchy, danceable beats. The artist is touring in support of his new album, “A Love for Strangers.”
Other confirmed artists for Día de Campo 2026 are Argentina’s Grammy-nominated Bándalos Chinos, known for its synth-pop, funk and indie rock, Norway’s Kakkmaddafakka, CocoRosie and Alanis Yuki.
Date: Nov. 29, 2026, starting at 1 p.m.
Location: Titanes event space next to Parque Metropolitano in Zapopan
Cost: Available on Boletomóvil starting at 1,323 pesos (US $65).
MND writer Dawn Stoner is reporting from Guadalajara.
Carlos Fuentes was a major voice, not only in Mexican literature, but world literature. (Librerías Gandhi)
Mexican author Carlos Fuentes entered my life with the soft insistence of a truth you recognize before you can name it. In a house where books functioned as liturgy and political arguments were my family’s daily prayer, politics and fiction braided until nationhood itself could only be discussed through story.
Friends learned to avoid politics and religion in polite conversation. But at our table, it was compulsory.
Encountering Carlos Fuentes
Between my mother’s journalistic and analytic perception and my father’s artistic view of the world, I first encountered Carlos Fuentes. It was an introduction that felt less like discovery than initiation.
I first found “La Muerte de Artemio Cruz” (“The Death of Artemio Cruz“) rummaging through my parents’ bookshelves as a teenager, that furtive, holy act of taking what the house has to offer.
The book is a slow, terrible confession. It follows a revolutionary soldier who becomes a wealthy businessman and, on his deathbed, confronts the compromises that made his life
possible.
The son of a diplomat and later one himself, Fuentes often thought of himself as a “gypsy in a black tie.” (INBAL)
I asked my father if I might read it. He agreed with the tolerant risk of someone who knows the power of literature. I was too young to understand everything —too young for many of the dates and alliances and the dense historical scaffolding —but not too young for the voices.
The blunt honesty of Fuentes’ interlocutors cut into me. Their phrases echoed family stories, private grievances and the way a father’s silence sometimes explained more than his sermons.
I went to sleep that night with the book heavy under my pillow, feeling the first tremor of an allegiance.
Fuentes liked to say that the Latin American novel rescues what official history neglects. It is an attractive aphorism: literature as a salvage operation, novels as lifeboats ferrying the lives, rumors and embarrassments that governments prefer to let sink.
But his claim is more than rhetoric. Read Fuentes and you find not an inventory of facts but a map of forces —the informal routines, petty calculations and generational betrayals —through which Mexican politics actually works. He is not interested in vindicating every detail of the public record. He excavates the subterranean arithmetic of power. The small acts and grand illusions that produce regimes.
A ‘gypsy in a black tie’
If Fuentes’ vantage feels panoramic, it is because it was cultivated that way. Born in 1928 in Panama to a cultured, liberal diplomatic family, he spent his early years amid the humid expanses of Montevideo and Rio de Janeiro. Those tropical afternoons —book-lined, humid and full of foreign tongues —were where Fuentes first fell in love with literature. Alfonso Reyes, the Mexican humanist and a central pillar of the country’s intellectual life, became an early mentor who guided him through the literary world.
The young Fuentes absorbed European and Latin American canons with equal appetite, continued his journey to Washington with his family. They stayed eight years in the American capital amid tense Mexico–U.S. relations following President Lázaro Cárdenas’ 1938 nationalizations.
Made in Mexico: Carlos Fuentes
Distance sharpened his sense of Mexico as a nation, and of his identity as Mexican in a foreign country, as he turned into a schoolyard enemy thanks to the “Tata Lázaro initiative.” Watching his country from abroad, he did not simply miss home. He began to interrogate it. He traced a family history animated by wider European convulsions — ancestors who fled Germany and Spain and settled in Veracruz, establishing a coffee hacienda, and he learned how much a personal identity could be a palimpsest of political choices and historical happenstance.
Then a pivotal evening at a New York cinema, where he watched “Citizen Kane” with his father, supplied a kind of formal revelation: narrative could reveal the way private lives braided into public histories. He decided then to write within those intersections.
The acquisition of a global perspective
Fuentes’ early reading list —Stevenson, Dumas, Miguel Zévaco, Jules Verne —reads less like a curriculum than a confession. He wanted plot and spectacle, but with an eye to the moral and historical sediment underneath.
A teenage posting in Chile broadened that sensibility further. Latin American politics did not respect borders. The authoritarian and reformist rhythms he observed in Chile and Argentina taught him that patterns reverberated across the continent, that the fate of one republic often presaged the anxieties of another.
He returned to Mexico, weary of the peripatetic diplomat’s life — the “gypsy in a black tie” as he called it —and enrolled at UNAM to study law at Alfonso Reyes’ encouragement. The law sharpened him. Fuentes would later borrow Stendhal’s praise for the Napoleonic civil code —“clear, concise and effective” —and insist that legal training gave a novelist a discipline of clarity.
Yet his impulse was to use that clarity to break forms with novels that could capture the messy simultaneity of Latin American time.
Fuentes’ first book, “The Masked Days,” was published in 1954 when he was only 26 years old. (Librerías Gandhi)
At age 26, he published his first book, “Los Días Enmascarados” (“The Masked Days”), 1954, a collection where myth and the fantastic meet a restless modernity. His true breakthrough came with “La Región Más Transparente” (“Where the Air Is Clear”), 1958, a book that announced, with a kind of civic thunder, a new way of seeing Mexico City.
From that moment, he was no longer an apprentice. He was a national habit.
A life stranger than fiction
Fuentes’ public life was as complicated as his fiction. His unique voice made him central to Mexican culture to the point where presidents listened carefully to what Fuentes and other Mexican intellectuals had to say about their regimes. Later, he accepted the ambassadorship to France (1975–1977), a decision tied to a friendship with President Luis Echeverría that earned both praise and censure.
When the following president, Gustavo Díaz Ordáz, took office, he resigned from his role as ambassador in protest to the Tlatelolco massacre in 1968, an act that marked him among writers who believed conscience could not be compartmentalized.
He would reflect on this episode as a reminder that the line between cultural influence and political entanglement is rarely neat. Fuentes moved in circles of power even as he remained a sharp critic.
He was, by any measure, prolific, writing more than seventy books — including novels, essays, short stories, scripts and plays —along with a steady stream of articles across the Americas.
Critics who catalog his work point to recurring obsessions: the mestizo nature of Mexican identity, the ways power shifts under pressure, and, when left to its own inertia, the precariousness of state narratives that tidy over contradictions.
But to reduce Fuentes to a set of themes is to miss his artistry, which is the ability to render political life in the language of human habit: betrayal as domestic pattern, corruption as genealogy and revolution as a choreography of broken promises.
If a reader wants a beginning, here are five texts that make his method and moral urgency plain.
1. “La Región Más Transparente” (“Where the Air Is Clear”), 1958
A portrait of Mexico City through a chorus of characters —peasants, intellectuals, opportunists, dreamers —this novel critiques a hopeful bourgeoisie who believes concentrated wealth will somehow be redistributed by fate. The city is staged as myth and machinery, a place where pre-Hispanic ghosts brush against neon and where national identity is debated in salons and tenements alike. Fuentes anticipates the rupture generation’s disillusionments, sketching a metropolis both magnet and mirror.
“The Eagle’s Throne” was one of Fuentes’ best later works, published in 2003. (Penguin Random House)
2. “La Silla del Águila” (“The Eagle’s Throne”), 2003
Set, proleptically, in 2020, told through letters after a communications collapse, it narrates a corrupt election, the corrosive compromises of those who seek higher office, and the blunt interventions of foreign powers —most pointedly the United States. It is less a speculative thriller than a study in how institutions erode when informal networks take precedence over civic duty.
3. “Tiempo Mexicano” (“Mexican Time”), 1971
An essayistic meditation on temporality and national memory. Fuentes argues that Mexican time is not linear but circular and overlapping. Epochs coexist and narrate one another. He examines who is given the right to remember and how state and culture conspire to shape collective consciousness. Here, his faith in youth and his hope that new generations could craft a more democratic nation glimmer most clearly.
4. “Nuevo Tiempo Mexicano” (“A New Time for Mexico”), 1994
Written in the wake of 1994’s ruptures —the Zapatista uprising in Chiapas and the peso’s collapse —this book is more sober. Where earlier essays were buoyed by the possibility of reform, “A New Time for Mexico” reflects on the hard limits of institution-building amid enduring inequality and the new economic realities shaped by NAFTA.
5. “El Espejo Enterrado” (“The Buried Mirror: Reflections on Spain and the New World”), 1992
Perhaps my favorite, a sweeping cultural history that traces five centuries of Hispanic America. Fuentes is at once historian and storyteller. He narrates the persistence of colonial and Indigenous legacies as the subterranean currents of identity. The book is elegiac and exuberant, a reminder that culture is not a surface polish but an accumulated architecture.
Because he converts complexity into clearness without flattening it. He is not a historian in the archival sense. Dates and citations are subordinated to moral geometry.
But he is remarkably precise in diagnosing how power, memory and myth conspire to produce national life. His prose wants to unsettle complacency. He hoped readers would argue with his books, not to annul them but to enlarge the conversation.
Fuentes belonged to an erudite generation that could look at Mexico from both inside and outside. The diplomat’s gaze that knows protocol and the exile’s view that knows perspective.
He understood how the Mexican Revolution’s promise had been domesticated: the postrevolutionary bourgeoisie reproducing prerevolutionary hierarchies, the Institutional Revolutionary Party’s (PRI) transformation from the Party of the Mexican Revolution (PRM) into an apparatus that welded party to state, and how industrial growth often masked social exclusion.
But perhaps his clearest insight is cultural. The revolution’s deepest achievement was not the redistribution of land or the construction of institutions alone, but the knitting together of a fragmented populace so disparate communities could finally perceive one another.
To read Fuentes is to feel history as a kind of weather: sudden, changeable and always shaping the small gestures of private life. His novels let you listen to Mexico’s interiors — the whispered bargains, the private prayers and public betrayals. They teach patience.
Political truths are rarely delivered in headlines. They arrive through accumulations of habit and choice, through the intimate narratives that novels can, more truthfully than manifestos, deliver.
If you find a copy of his work, take it. Fuentes will not hand you a neat syllabus of reform. Instead, he will offer scenes and voices that make the stakes of politics unavoidable. His writing insists upon engagement.
Not mere consumption, but conversation,argument, indignation, laughter and, sometimes, renewal. In that stubborn insistence lies his lasting invitation: to read Mexico not as a place to be explained, but as a country alive with stories that refine what we think we know.
María Meléndez is a writer and art historian. She works at the Mexican Cultural Institute of the Embassy of Mexico in Washington, D.C.
The US is not only loath to ease tariffs on some Mexican products, it wants to add a surcharge to trade negotiations. (This image was generated using AI tools)
WASHINGTON, District of Columbia — Bilateral trade talks between the United States and Mexico came to a sudden halt Thursday after U.S. Commerce Secretary Howard Lutnick submitted a revised 400-page framework requiring Mexico to pay a 25% duty on existing 25% tariffs, alongside a surcharge on the bilateral trade talks themselves.
According to sources familiar with the negotiations, the impasse arose when U.S. officials clarified that “tariff relief” was a procedural misunderstanding, proposing instead a compound tariff architecture in which every imported vehicle, steel beam or aluminum bracket would incur levies not only on its material value, but on the accumulated administrative cost of discussing those levies.
Trade talks to reduce U.S. tariffs on steel, aluminum, and autos have stalled. Could more tariffs be the solution? (Carlos Aranda/Unsplash)
Under the proposed U.S. structure, if a Mexican-assembled automobile crosses the border into Texas, it will be subject to a baseline auto tariff, an additional fee for utilizing the border bridge, and a 12.5% “consultation duty” designed to cover the U.S. Department of Commerce’s operational expenses during the hours spent resisting tariff reductions.
“Our stance has always been entirely reasonable,” said a senior U.S. official speaking on the condition of anonymity to discuss sensitive diplomatic friction. “Mexico asked for tariff cuts. We offered to cut the paper on which the tariffs are printed, but the ink used to print that paper remains subject to a 50% national security surcharge. If we do not tax the negotiations, we risk incentivizing future diplomacy, which could destabilize key domestic industries that rely heavily on trade deadlock.”
Mexican negotiators reportedly spent three hours attempting to calculate the effective compound tax rate on a single domestic brake pad before realizing the total duty exceeded the market value of the vehicle containing it. The Mexican delegation subsequently offered to suspend its own automotive parts tariffs for five years, only to be informed that concessions were subject to a 10% entry levy upon arrival at Washington Dulles International Airport.
Despite the procedural logjam, both governments publicly denied that negotiations had broken down. In a Thursday afternoon address to federal deputies, Ebrard maintained an unflappable optimism, assuring lawmakers that Mexico remains uniquely positioned to enjoy the most sophisticated, multi-tiered tariff relationship in the Western Hemisphere.
“We are making extraordinary, unprecedented progress toward defining the precise parameters of our disagreement,” noted a member of Mexico’s negotiating team. “Our position remains strong, our position remains favorable, and we fully expect that by Friday, we will have secured a formal agreement specifying the exact date on which we will resume failing to agree.”
At press time, U.S. officials were reportedly reviewing a proposal to implement a 5% ad valorem tariff on all future press releases issued by the Mexican Ministry of Economy that contain the word “constructive.”
Two men share a drink of mezcal after their hard work. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Nestled between the Pan-American Highway and the Rio Grande, all along the Ruta Caminos del Mezcal, exist hundreds of palenques, or small farms that carry the ancient practice of mezcal production. Tourists come in droves to watch the mules pull the great stone wheel of the tahona in slow circles, crushing roasted agave before it is fermented, distilled and enjoyed.
I had the pleasure of learning about this age-old practice firsthand, a practice that existed long before it became a spectacle for curious travelers, while living and volunteering at one of these fabled farms.
How community and ecology sustain mezcal production
The land once belonged to the Zapotecs, an ancient civilization known for its profound connection to the natural and spiritual worlds. Inhabiting the land for more than 2,500 years, the Zapotecs were first overtaken by the Aztecs beginning in the late 15th century, and subsequently by the infamous Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés.
Although the group suffered decimation from disease and invasion, around 500,000 Zapotec speakers remain in the Oaxaca region. That air of tradition survives in the people and culture of Oaxaca today: in the emphasis on community, in farming and ecological initiatives, in spiritual practice and myth, and most notably, in mezcal.
This part of the agave plant is sometimes known as the piña, as it resembles a pineapple. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Oaxaca, the mezcal capital of the world, is also known for its ecological initiatives and Earth-centered culture, and remains a place of continual education and philosophy for anyone passionate about a lifestyle that benefits the planet.
Indigenous and mestizo communities own nearly 82% of the state’s 6.1 million hectares of forest, managing them collectively rather than as private property. Zapotec is still spoken in several municipalities, and local mythology and spiritually driven land stewardship make the state an example of an ecologically sustainable community.
First sip goes to the Earth and ancestors
In Zapotec tradition, mezcal brings people closer to the spirits. Across Oaxaca, it is common to pour the first sip for the thirsty earth and for ancestors long gone.
As the glasses are raised and the offering given, participants speak the word “Dixeebe” over the anointed ground. Dixeebe is a Zapotec salutation used to express deep reverence for the spirit of Earth. The gesture is small, but it is a daily reminder to put the needs of the Earth, and of those no longer living on it, before one’s own. Repeated across a community, it builds a culture devoted to a better planet for all of us.
This inherent reverence and respect for the Earth reverberates through small, traditional mezcal-producing palenques across the Oaxacan region.
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The agave hearts arrive for processing at Casa Cabrón. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
The working men are happy after a delivery of agave hearts to their palenque. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
The agave hearts need to be cut up after they have been delivered. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
In artisanal methods, agave is cooked in pit hearths and clay or brick ovens. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Mezcal history is inspired by pre-Columbian Indigenous fermentation and Asian distillation techniques brought from the Philippines. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Mezcal can be produced from any agave plant in Mexico, unlike tequila, which needs to be made with a specific type of blue agave. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Casa Cabrón produces artisanal mezcal crafted with traditional methods. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Mezcal history is inspired by pre-Columbian Indigenous fermentation and Asian distillation techniques brought from the Philippines. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
A man walking through agave hearts at Casa Cabrón. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
The agave hearts are also commonly referred to as maguey. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
The author of this article, Abigail-Rose Maley, involved in the process of making mezcal. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Casa Cabrón produces artisanal mezcal crafted with traditional methods. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Making mezcal in the traditional way requires stamina. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
Protecting the land is protecting mezcal
For Miguel Ángel Zamora, mezcal maestro at Casa Cabrón in Unión Zapata, protecting the land and protecting mezcal are inextricably linked. Casa Cabrón is one of many family-run palenques in Unión Zapata that remain true to the traditional culture of mezcal production.
Regarding his production process, Zamora says, “That connection (to the Earth) is so important for life in general, and can also be achieved through mezcal. But first, we must be conscious of producing it in a conscious way.”
He goes on to say, “We must care for Mother Earth, because from her flows the medicine that heals our soul, mind, body and life.”
Mezcal history is inspired by pre-Columbian Indigenous fermentation and Asian distillation techniques brought from the Philippines. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
‘Revealing a bit of life’s magic’
The mezcal production process begins on monthly cycles.
During harvest day, jimadores use machetes to cut and carve the agave plants’ core and prepare them for pickup. After the batch is cut and ready, workers from the palenque or neighboring farms retrieve the haul from the mountains and bring it back to the palenques for production.
“For me, producing mezcal means revealing a bit of life’s magic, the magic of transformation,” Zamora says. “It means showing the world that processes rooted in great love and respect for Mother Earth foster life, enjoyment, bliss and joy.”
The following day the crew and I headed back to the harvesting site promptly at 4:45 a.m. to pick up the agave and deliver it. The trip to the Sierra Mixe mountains was a generous three hours, even with our skilled, quick driver.
The haul of agave is sorted in the mountains before it’s brought back to the palenque. (Abigail-Rose Maley)
As we maneuvered the mountains’ impressive turns, the men talked of the prior night’s full moon, healthy horses and newly bought motorcycles. My traveling companions would point out edible plants, dangerous cacti or friends’ palenques, all the while passing snacks over my shoulder.
Once we arrived at the agave harvesting site, beverages were shared over small coolers, while the workers formed assembly lines — one man lifted the cut-down plant, tossed it to the next, and finally threw it into the back of the exporting truck.
Despite the physically demanding work and intense heat, there was no shortage of laughter. It was easy to mistake our hard work for a friendly reunion.
Although larger mezcal corporations have pitched their tent along the mezcal route in recent years, family-run mezcal farms remain, with their beliefs intact and traditions upheld. Contrasts between old and new, nature and machines, are everywhere in Oaxaca. Local ruins exist amongst modern towns. Spanish churches are built upon ancient Zapotec temples.
Nowhere is this divide clearer than at the Church of San Pablo in Mitla. An ancient Zapotec ceremonial site, this once-great temple was torn down and rebuilt by Spanish Dominican friars, turning the structure into a Catholic institution. However, the original Zapotec foundations remain, creating a haunting visual representation of religious syncretism within the region and the enduring Indigenous presence.
As I walked through the ruins, our guide, a local Zapotec historian and teacher, led us past fallen walls and shrunken tombs that once sheltered a people defined by their relationship to the natural world. Spirals of life and death decorated the low-hanging frames, and old women passed, the numinous melody of the Zapotec language drifting in their wake.
A palenque worker covers his mouth from the smoking of the mezcal process (Abigail-Rose Maley)
We had brought our guide freshly distilled mezcal to taste, and he insisted we pour the first sip for the thirsty ground and the ancestors. We stood together, surrounded by the imposing walls of the temple’s spiritual resilience, and poured the first sip of mezcal onto the ancient stone floors.
We saluted using the Zapotec word dixeebe, while remembering all those who had been at this very spot before us.
The Zapotec civilization may have been nearly lost to time, but its beliefs and the spirit of its people live on in Oaxaca and, evidently, around the world, carried in the smoky, sultry, handmade spirit of mezcal.
Abigail Rose is a journalist, archaeologist and storyteller with a hands-on, in-the-field approach to journalism. She reports on local environmental initiatives, cultural stories and frontline conflict through writing, photography and video. Her work has taken her across Colombia, Peru, Oman, Greece, Mexico, Ecuador, Germany, Italy and the U.S., with her next project bringing her to Oaxaca, Mexico.