What’s on in the Riviera Maya this October?

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September 30, 2024

Find Mexican tradition, Maya mystique, Catholic reverence and a sprinkle of Halloween mischief at Isla Mujeres' Luz y Vida festival this month. (Light and Life Festival)

October is my favorite time of year in the Riviera Maya. There’s amazing food and deep spiritual cultural connections in every community. It’s leading up to one of Mexico’s biggest celebrations, Día de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead.

I had great fun last year getting my face painted. Every town, every community and every person I’ve met during this time of year has been warm and welcoming. It is a time for human kindness and family.

Here in the Riviera Maya, you’ll also see and experience the beautiful Maya tradition of Hanal Pixan. Hanal means food, and pixan means soul. In Mayan, these two words together mean food for the soul. Traditional altars will start appearing in early October. So, you can expect to see them in hotels, businesses, schools, homes and above all, in cemeteries.

October 1 – Explore the Universe in 3D at Cozumel Planetarium

Planetarium Cha’an Ka’an in Cozumel has the only 3D projection screen in Latin America. Lie back and enjoy soaring through the stars, exploring black holes and nebulas and learning about the vast frontier of space. The planetarium is open every day except Sundays and only costs 70 pesos ($3.50 US) for residents or 150 pesos ($7.50 US) for tourists. The show goes for nearly an hour and is so amazing it feels like five minutes. There are plenty of activities for the kids — everything from robotics programs to bird watching — as it doubles as a science museum.

October 4 – Jazz Under the Stars, Playa del Carmen

Enjoy a night of Jazz Under the Stars full of great music, a four-course meal and a welcome cocktail at The Fives Downtown in Playa del Carmen. This musical journey from the Caribbean to Europe is performed by Europe’s acclaimed Ernesto Montenegro Quintet, who will captivate you while you relax on the rooftop bar with Caribbean views. It’s 990 pesos, and you’d better hurry; the limited seating is filling up fast.

All of October – Swim with Turtles in Akumal

May through November is the best time to swim with sea turtles in Akumal. There are usually some sea turtles present year-round, but during these months, you’re almost guaranteed to have a turtle or two to keep you company while snorkeling.

You have a couple of options for seeing the turtles. Pay the 300 pesos ($15 US) and enter the marine park where you can pick up a guided snorkel tour. Or, walk further into town with your snorkel gear and enjoy a free swim/snorkel by walking into the water from one of many beachside restaurants.

October 10-15 – Mocha Fest Cancún

It’s five days of fun at the annual Mocha Fest in Cancún. With free shuttles, great entertainment and all-inclusive hotels, you don’t have to lift a finger. All you do is have fun. Music, pool parties, brunches, lingerie parties and there’s even a bikini booze cruise. You can get tickets through Eventbrite or book with the hotels.

October 17-20 – XVI Cozumel Island Bird Festival

This free Festival de las Aves Isla Cozumel is four days of nature-loving fun. I’ve bookmarked this one for the free bird-watching tours, educational sessions, lectures and art. Plus, it’s very kid-friendly, with plenty of activities each day. A lot happens at the Planetarium during the festival. They also have an amazing 3D digital dome to explore the universe after the day’s activities. I’ll be attending this one for sure, so be sure to say hi if you drop by!

All of October – Watch a Maya Rain Ceremony, Playa del Carmen

Watch a Mayan Rain Ceremony, Playa del Carmen — Watch a Maya Rain Ceremony in Playa del Carmen.

Watch a breathtaking display in Parque Los Fundadores, the main park along Playa del Carmen’s Quinta Avenida downtown. Performed since pre-Columbian times, the Papantla Flyers perform a spectacular aerial Maya Rain Ceremony. Climbing a huge pole several stories high, they spiral down to earth, representing rain, hanging by their feet as they glide slowly upside down. It’s free, and the flyers can be found in the park daily. Just be sure to leave a tip.

October 26-Nov 2 – Costume Diving Cozumel

Be it ghost or ghoul, Wonder Woman or witch, grab your favorite costume and head to Cozumel’s crystal clear waters. After all, we’re famous for scuba diving and water sports!

Join Tri-State Scuba’s annual costume dive pilgrimage to Cozumel. All divers are welcome, from any part of the world. Be sure to book in advance and get great prices as it’s about to hit high season. Then prices rise!

October 28-Nov 1 – Luz y Vida (Life and Light) Festival Isla Mujeres

The Light and Life festival begins with the lighting of the Grand Altar and ends with a huge street parade of catrinas and catrines (skeletons). It wraps up every facet of Mexico’s Day of the Dead holiday with breathtaking costumes, street parades, dancing and music over five days. In the festival’s words, “Luz y Vida is a five-night festival blending Mexican tradition, Maya mystique, Catholic reverence and a sprinkle of Halloween mischief.” Entry is free; the organizers just ask you to dress for the occasion and join in the fun.

October 30 – Festival of Life and Death Traditions

Discover the famous Day of the Dead traditions of the Yucatán Peninsula, when we welcome the souls of our loved ones back from the afterlife for a visit. Held at Xcaret, just outside Playa del Carmen, this festival lasts until November 3. It includes concerts, plays, dances and an All Saints Day mass. Plus, there are exhibitions and workshops at the Interactive Hacienda. Price is 825 pesos, and children 0-4 are free.

October 31 – Meet the Maya King of the Underworld

Mayan Day of the Dead celebrations — Maya Day of the Dead celebrations.

Join Pueblo del Maíz, the Maya cultural center in Cozumel for Maya Day of the Dead celebrations! There is a fun show to descend into Xibalba (the Maya underworld) to meet the King of the Underworld. Listen to the Maya legends and songs, then enjoy traditional foods of the Yucatán Peninsula, like cochinita pibil. My favorite is the traditional cacao hot chocolate to dunk your pan de muerto in. Admission was 25 pesos last year, but check closer to the time for definite pricing.

No matter where you are in the Riviera Maya, there’s a Day of the Dead celebration in the last week of October. They are terrific and very welcoming, so be sure to find out about one near you.

Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over seven years now, she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere else anytime soon.

How did Mexico change during AMLO’s six-year term?

By

MND Staff

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September 30, 2024

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AMLO held his final morning press conference on Monday, Sept. 30. Since leaving the presidency, he has retired from public life. (lopezobrador.org.mx)

This Monday, Sept. 30, is the final day of the (almost) six-year term of President Andrés Manuel López Obrador.

AMLO, as Mexico’s leader is best known, was sworn in as president on Dec. 1, 2018, after winning the 2018 presidential election with over 53% of the vote.

AMLO's presidential portrait now hangs in the National Palace. — AMLO’s presidential portrait, by the painter Jorge Ermilo Espinosa, now hangs in the National Palace. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)

The Tabasco-born septuagenarian has been in office for five years and 10 months, a period during which he presided over more than 1,400 morning press conferences, or mañaneras.

López Obrador was a spritely 65-year-old when he assumed the presidency, and — despite the inevitable aging process, the weight of the job and six years of early starts — the president has maintained his energy, enthusiasm and penchant for lengthy oratory throughout his term in office, even after he encountered health challenges such as repeated bouts of COVID and a fainting episode during a visit to the sultry city of Mérida.

There is no doubt that Mexico has changed in myriad ways during “the AMLO years,” a period the president hoped would come earlier, but which did not due to his defeat in both the 2006 and 2012 presidential elections.

Outlined below are 12 of the changes that occurred in Mexico during the term of the nation’s popular — yet polarizing — president, who plans to spend his retirement at his ranch in the southern state of Chiapas.

Mexico’s minimum wage almost tripled

The minimum wage was just 88.36 pesos per day when López Obrador took office in late 2018.

It is now 182% higher at 248.93 pesos (US $12.65) per day in most of the country, thanks to sizable annual increases during the presidency of AMLO, who has been a strong advocate for higher wages for Mexico’s lowest-paid workers.

AMLO, in a business suit, points at a screen showing a bar chart of the minimum wage over the years — López Obrador increased the minimum wage every year that he was president, starting in 2018. (LopezObrador.org.mx)

Between 2020 and 2023, Mexico’s minimum wage increased more in real terms than that of any other member country of the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, or OECD.

Consumer prices also went up

Inflation has been a hard-to-beat scourge during López Obrador’s presidency, especially in the latter half of his six-year term, or sexenio.

AMLO inherited high inflation from his predecessor, Enrique Peña Nieto, with the annual headline rate reaching 4.72% in November 2018, the month before he took office.

By February 2020, just before the COVID pandemic took hold in Mexico, annual inflation was more or less under control at 3.70%, a rate within the Bank of Mexico’s target range of 3%, give or take one percentage point.

However, in the post-pandemic period, inflation reached its highest level in more than two decades, hitting 8.70% in August 2022 and remaining at the same level the following month.

Before those peaks, the federal government implemented an anti-inflation plan. While the impact the plan had is debatable, Mexico’s headline rate has declined significantly since the second half of 2022, and fell to its lowest level since April in August.

However, inflation has mainly been on the rise this year, and given that the scourge reached its highest level in more than 20 years on AMLO’s watch, the current six-year term of government will be remembered by many as a time of significant cost pressures.

AMLO celebrated his final mañanera with a hearty breakfast of tamales and barbacoa on Monday. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)

Poverty declined

As federal officials have frequently highlighted, poverty rates have fallen during the term of the current government, which has spent huge amounts of money on welfare and social programs.

While the number of Mexicans living in poverty increased by 3.8 million between 2018 and the end of 2020, largely due to the impact of the COVID pandemic, the figure decreased by 8.9 million in the subsequent two years.

Data published by the National Council for the Evaluation of Social Development Policy showed that 46.8 million Mexicans were living in a “situation of poverty” in 2022, down from 51.9 million at the start of López Obrador’s presidency.

Among AMLO’s favorite maxims are the following: “For the good of all, the poor come first” and “There can’t be a rich government with a poor people.”

The peso strengthened, but not by much

The day before AMLO took office — Nov. 30, 2018 — one US dollar was worth 20.24 pesos, according to the currency exchange website xe.com.

Shortly after 2 p.m. Monday, five years and 10 months after López Obrador took office, one greenback was buying 19.69 pesos.

Thus, the peso has appreciated around 2.8% against the US dollar during the current government.

AMLO at a press conference — In AMLO’s last year as president, the peso spent several months at an exchange rate below 17 to the US dollar. (Gob MX)

The peso’s strongest position during AMLO’s sexenio was 16.30 to the greenback in April, an appreciation of over 24% compared to the exchange rate at the close of markets on Nov. 30, 2018.

However, the peso has weakened considerably in recent months, in large part due to concern over the federal government’s judicial reform, which was signed into law earlier this month after approval by both houses of Congress.

Mexico became the world’s 12th largest economy

According to the International Monetary Fund, Mexico became the 12th largest economy in the world in 2023.

When AMLO took office in 2018, it ranked 15th.

López Obrador faced some turbulent economic times as president. The Mexican economy contracted 8.5% in 2020 as the coronavirus pandemic and associated restrictions ravaged the economy.

During AMLO’s six-year term, accumulated GDP growth was just 5.28%, meaning that average annual growth was just 0.86%.

The Mexican economy grew considerably more during the sexenios of Vicente Fox (2000-06), Felipe Calderón (2006-12) and Enrique Peña Nieto (2012-18).

Foreign investment increased

Foreign direct investment (FDI) in Mexico totaled US $36.06 billion in 2023, an increase of 14.1% compared to 2018.

BYD executives stand in front of a BYD Dolphin Mini model — Chinese automakers, particularly BYD, have significantly increased their investments in Mexico since 2018. (BYD Auto Mexico/Facebook)

López Obrador has frequently said that his government has made Mexico an attractive place to invest, although investors have expressed significant concern about federal policies and laws, including the recently-enacted judicial reform.

While the increase in FDI is a positive, the low levels of “new investment” – i.e. investment by companies that didn’t previously have a presence in Mexico – has worried some experts, especially considering that the country is currently amidst what has been described as a “once-in-a-generation opportunity” to attract foreign capital.

Some observers believe that the judicial reform will act as a significant deterrent to nearshoring to Mexico, but soon-to-be president Claudia Sheinbaum has asserted that investors have nothing to worry about.

The USMCA took effect

The North American Free Trade Agreement, or NAFTA, was still in effect when AMLO took office on Dec. 1, 2018.

But just over 1 1/2 years later, on July 1, 2020, the pact was superseded by the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement, or USMCA (known as T-MEC in Mexico and CUSMA in Canada).

While the USMCA was negotiated before López Obrador was sworn in, the president has championed the agreement and the trade relationships Mexico has with the United States and Canada.

During his presidency, Mexico became the world’s biggest exporter to, and top trade partner of, the United States.

A review of the USMCA is scheduled for 2026.

Large infrastructure projects sprang up all over the country

A number of large infrastructure projects that didn’t exist before AMLO took office now dot the Mexican landscape. Among the projects built by the federal government are:

The Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) just north of Mexico City, which opened in 2022.
The Tulum International Airport, which opened late last year.
The Olmeca (Dos Bocas) Refinery on the Tabasco Coast, which has begun refining but is not yet operating at full capacity.
The Maya Train railroad, most sections of which are in operation.
The Puerto Peñasco solar plant, which began operations last year.
The Federal Center for the Storage and Distribution of Health Supplies, a government facility in México state known as the “Well-Being Mega Pharmacy.”

A photo of the maya train is presented — The Maya Train was López Obrador’s most important infrastructure project in the southeast. (Tren Maya/X)

Some of the projects have been criticized on environmental grounds, or because they haven’t alleviated the problem they sought to ease, such as significantly reducing pressure on the Mexico City International Airport in the case of AIFA.

However, López Obrador has argued that the various government-built projects will help spur the Mexican economy and set up the country for a prosperous future.

Morena seized political control of most of Mexico

As Mexico News Daily previously reported, the National Regeneration Movement (Morena), the political party founded by López Obrador, has become Mexico’s most dominant political force in recent years.

After recently-elected governors are sworn in, Morena will govern 23 of Mexico’s 32 federal entities. When López Obrador was elected president on July 1, 2018, the party wasn’t in power in any of the country’s states.

Claudia Sheinbaum will head up Mexico’s second successive Morena party federal government after she takes office this Tuesday. She has pledged to build the “second story” of the “transformation” of Mexico initiated by López Obrador

The main reason for Morena’s remarkable electoral success is undoubtedly AMLO, who has remained popular throughout his presidency and whose policies are supported by tens of millions of Mexicans, including many of the nation’s most disadvantaged people.

Morena supporter in the Mexico City main square — AMLO helped push the Morena party to its current popularity. (Cuartoscuro)

Homicides increased, then decreased

Murders increased early in López Obrador’s term, peaking at close to 37,000 in 2020, making that year Mexico’s most violent on record.

However, homicide numbers have decreased every year since then, falling to just over 31,000 in 2023, according to the national statistics agency INEGI, making last year the least violent year since 2016.

Nevertheless, in terms of total homicides, AMLO’s sexenio is the most violent on record, with close to 200,000 victims.

The president has blamed the high levels of violence on the security situation he inherited from his predecessors. He has been especially critical of the militarized “war” on drug cartels initiated by Calderón shortly after he took office in 2006.

López Obrador continued to use the military for public security tasks, but repeatedly stressed that his security strategy prioritized addressing the root causes of crime over combating criminals with force.

The military assumed more responsibility

In addition to carrying out public security tasks, Mexico’s armed forces took on a wide variety of other non-traditional jobs during López Obrador’s presidency.

President López Obrador walks with the directors of Sedena and Semar during the Independence Day military parade on September 16, 2024. — President López Obrador has relied heavily on the military, using it for public security, infrastructure construction and a wide range of other tasks. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

They included building some of the infrastructure projects listed above, managing ports, airports and customs offices and distributing vaccines during the COVID pandemic.

AMLO has denied claims that his heavy reliance on the military has resulted in the militarization, or increased militarization, of Mexico. He has expressed high levels of trust in the armed forces, even though the military has been accused of involvement in serious crimes, including the abduction and presumed murder of 43 students in Guerrero in 2014.

He fought for the repatriation of former defense minister Salvador Cienfuegos after his arrest in the United States in 2020 on drug trafficking and money laundering charges.

On Monday morning, López Obrador signed a decree to promulgate a constitutional bill that places the National Guard under the control of the Ministry of National Defense.

The bill was approved by both houses of the Morena-dominated Congress earlier this month, ensuring that the military will have even more responsibility – and power – during the federal government led by Claudia Sheinbaum.

Various constitutional changes were made

In addition to the judicial and National Guard reforms mentioned earlier, some other constitutional amendments were made during AMLO’s term as president.

The government repealed Peña Nieto’s education reform before enacting a new one, and also made changes to provisions in the constitution related to tax, welfare and health care.

López Obrador sent a large packet of constitutional reform proposals to Congress in February, including bills aimed at disbanding a number of autonomous government agencies, guaranteeing that annual minimum salary increases outpace inflation and banning fracking and genetically modified corn.

Most of AMLO’s 18 constitutional reform proposals will be considered during the sexenio of Sheinbaum, who has expressed support for many of the initiatives put forth by her political mentor.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

Arrests made in murder case of high-ranking Mexico City security official

By

MND Staff

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September 30, 2024

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Nine suspects in Milton Morales Mexico City murder case — Authorities have arrested nine suspects in connection with the murder of Morales in July and are still looking for two other alleged participants. (SSC_CDMX/X)

A total of nine people suspected of taking part in the July murder of a top Mexico City security official have been arrested, according to the Mexico City Security Ministry (SSC CDMX).

Milton Morales Figueroa, director of the strategy, tactics and special operations unit of the SSC, was shot to death while he was off duty on July 21 in Coacalco, a municipality just north of Mexico City.

Milton Morales Figueroa was head of the Mexico City strategy, tactics and special operations unit of the Mexico City Security Ministry (SSC).

In a Monday morning press statement, the SSC reported that it had carried out a joint operation with México state and Hidalgo state authorities that resulted in the arrests of six suspects over the the past 10 days.

Mexico City Security Minister Pablo Vázquez Camacho posted a message on X announcing that to date, a total of nine suspects have been apprehended for their alleged participation in the “cowardly” assassination, while two others are still being sought in connection with the crime.

Among the six arrested most recently, the authorities identified Jorge Leonel “N”, aka “Leo,” as the alleged shooter.

“Leo” was detained on Sept. 19 in the state of Hidalgo. The SSC says the suspect has a criminal record in Mexico City and was previously jailed in the capital’s Reclusorio Sur prison for larceny. Evidence suggests “Leo” agreed to carry out the hit to pay off a debt, according to the investigation led by the SSC.

The other five suspects arrested this month were identified as Jesús Octavio “N,” (aka “El Pinto”), José Manuel “N” (aka “Manu” or “El 16”), Juan Carlos “N”, Rafael “N” (aka “El Bombón”) and Raúl “N” (aka “Racafa”).

According to the results of the SSC’s investigation, on the morning of July 21, “Leo” met four of the suspects at an auto mechanic’s shop in México state.

“Leo,” Juan Carlos and Jesús Octavio boarded a white Chevrolet Aveo and staked out Morales’ house. They then tailed Morales when he drove away in the company of his wife. Jesús Octavio allegedly supplied “Leo” with the 9 mm pistol and identified the target as he walked from his car to chicken shop.

“Leo” reportedly fired six shots at Morales, hitting him at least twice — once in the head and once in the back — then climbed back in the Chevy Aveo and fled. A 77-year-old man was also injured in the attack.

Omar García Harfuch and Claudia Sheinbaum — Omar García Harfuch is the incoming federal security minister for the Sheinbaum administration. He had previously worked closely with Morales. (Cuartoscuro)

According to investigators, the co-conspirators dropped “Leo” off in Pachuca, the Hidalgo state capital, where he had been hiding since the murder.

The authorities have yet to identify the mastermind of the homicide, though the working hypothesis is that Morales was killed in retaliation for his success in cracking down on gangs working in the Mexico City metropolitan area.

Morales, responsible for investigating “high-impact” crimes in the capital, was expected to move to a ranking position in the federal government under President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum, who will take the oath of office on Tuesday.

The 40-year-old official worked closely with Omar García Harfuch — who will lead the federal security ministry — when the latter headed up the Mexico City Security Ministry from 2018-2023. Morales and García Harfuch first worked together almost 16 years ago when both were employed by the now-defunct Federal Police agency.

With reports from Reforma, Infobae and El Universal

Hofusan Industrial Park announces US $1B expansion plans in Nuevo León

By

MND Staff

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September 30, 2024

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Hofusan Industrial Park model — Hofusan Industrial Park in Nuevo León is home to 40 companies today and has already invested US $1 billion in its facilities to date. (Government of Nuevo León)

The Chinese and Mexican-owned Hofusan Industrial Park has plans to invest US $1 billion to expand its facilities north of Monterrey, Nuevo León, according to a statement by Governor Samuel García.

“The company has informed me that they have already invested over US $1 billion, and they plan to continue expanding with an additional US $1 billion,” García posted on his X account on Saturday, along with a video taken at the company’s facilities.

Samuel García with state officials and Hofusan Industrial Park executives — García (center) met with executives from Hofusan Industrial Park to discuss their expansion plans. (Government of Nuevo León)

Furthermore, García said Hofusan Industrial Park has plans to develop an area of hotels, housing and shopping malls.

“New roads, new outposts and the remodeling of the Colombia-Laredo customs office has attracted large companies from around the world to invest in Nuevo León,” García said.

César Santos, the president of the board of Hofusan Industrial Park, added that they are “very grateful” to García’s government for having improved the access road to the park, which went from being “a rural road to a four-lane highway.”

Developed by the Chinese companies Holley Group and Futong Group along with the Mexican Santos family in 2017, Hofusan Industrial Park occupies an area of 8.47 square kilometers located 20 km north of Monterrey — about 200 km from Laredo, Texas.

Mexican and Chinese business people at Hofusan Industrial Park — The industrial park has been one of the key players in the arrival of Chinese manufacturers to the northern state of Nuevo León. (Hofusan Industrial Park NL/X)

The industrial park currently houses 40 businesses and is projected to eventually include 100 industrial buildings.

Some of the park’s largest companies include Hong Kong-based furniture manufacturer Manwah and Chinese home appliance manufacturer Hisense. The park also houses manufacturers in the auto parts and automotive industry.

Nuevo León was the third biggest recipient nationwide of the announced FDI during the first six months of 2024, accounting for 9% of the total. Some recent big announcements include U.S. software giant Oracle’s plans to bring a hyperscale cloud region to Nuevo León, and Chinese Boda International Holding Group’s plan to invest US $850 million to build smart homes as part of a community development program.

Nuevo León’s ability to attract FDI is due in part to the efforts of Governor García, who is entering the second half of his term and has made attracting nearshoring companies a priority.

A study by the Mexican Institute for Competitiveness (IMCO) and the Friedrich Naumann Foundation for Freedom (FNF) found that Nuevo León is among the best-prepared states in Mexico to accommodate nearshoring investments, along with Aguascalientes and Coahuila.

With reports from El Economista

More rain in the forecast for flooded Guerrero, Oaxaca

By

MND Staff

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September 30, 2024

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Areas including southern Guerrero and coastal Oaxaca as well as the Isthmus of Tehuantepec across to the Gulf could see considerably more rain today and throughout the week. — Areas including southern Guerrero and coastal Oaxaca as well as the Isthmus of Tehuantepec could see considerably more rain today and throughout the week. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)

As residents of Mexico’s Pacific coast area reel from the effects of Tropical Storm John, today’s weather forecast suggests there is little relief in sight.

In its Monday morning weather bulletin, Mexico’s national weather agency (SMN) reported that intense rains are forecast to continue in Guerrero, Chiapas and Oaxaca.

Se pronostican #Lluvias intensas en regiones de #Guerrero, #Oaxaca, #Chiapas, #Tabasco, #Veracruz, #Yucatán y #QuintanaRoo.

Ve el #Pronóstico completo de lluvias ⬇️ pic.twitter.com/RIBVZGGRKc

— CONAGUA Clima (@conagua_clima) September 30, 2024

These three storm-battered states could see an additional 75-150 millimeters of rain on Monday. Guerrero is especially vulnerable to flooding and landslides after John dumped rain on its coastal mountain region for the better part of last week, leaving at least 23 dead across the state.

Farther north along the Pacific coast, Colima, Jalisco and Michoacán are projected to see 50-75 mm of rainfall.

According to the weather agency Meteored, unstable tropical systems featuring tropical waves, monsoon troughs and tropical cyclones threaten to bring torrential rains across Mexico this week.

As a result, areas including southern Guerrero and coastal Oaxaca, as well as the Isthmus of Tehuantepec extending to the Gulf, could see considerably more rain today and throughout the week. The SMN alerted the public to be on the lookout for mudslides and flash flooding, especially where the ground has already been saturated with rain.

The "Diamante" resort zone of Acapulco was under water on Monday. — The “Diamante” resort zone of Acapulco, Guerrero, was under water on Monday. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)

The SMN reported at 6 a.m. on Monday that there are currently two low-pressure areas in the Pacific that could develop into tropical cyclones.

The first, off the coast of the states of Oaxaca and Guerrero, has a 20% chance of becoming a tropical cyclone in 48 hours but a 70% chance of becoming a storm in the next seven days. The SMN said this system is located roughly 200 kilometers south-southwest from Punta Maldonado, Guerrero, the spot where Hurricane John came ashore exactly one week ago.

The second system is located about 160 kilometers offshore from Pijijiapan, Chiapas, and has just a 20% chance of becoming a cyclone in the next week. The fourth cold front of the season is forecast to arrive by the weekend, contributing to the inclement conditions in Mexico’s storm-affected regions.

Across the country on the Gulf coast, Tabasco and Veracruz will see 75-150 mm of rain, while Campeche, Quintana Roo, Puebla and Yucatán are projected to get 50-75 mm of precipitation.

The Central American Gyre (CAG) is the main contributor to the weather conditions in Mexico’s southeast and along the eastern Gulf of Mexico. An early and late-season source of tropical development, the CAG can bring dangerous levels of rainfall in a very short period.

Meteored says the CAG will primarily affect the weather across the Yucatán Peninsula and up into the Gulf of Tehuantepec this week.

With reports from Meteored, MVS Noticias and Infobae

Acapulco airport closed to commercial flights due to flooding

By

MND Staff

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September 30, 2024

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Members of the National Guard are carrying out cleaning and water pumping tasks, along with airport employees, but authorities say the closure will continue until further notice.(@Garcimonero/X)

The Pacific coast resort city of Acapulco, which was devastated by the impact of Hurricane Otis last October, was drenched last week by Hurricane and Tropical Storm John, disrupting all commercial flights.

Runways at Acapulco International Airport are flooded, restricting operations to only rescue flights. According to a statement on the airport’s X account, members of the National Guard are carrying out cleaning and water pumping tasks, along with airport employees, but authorities say the closure will continue until further notice.

⚠️ ¡Atención! El Aeropuerto Internacional de Acapulco ha suspendido sus operaciones ya que se encuentra inundado tras la tormenta tropical John; las autoridades informaron que reanudarán los vuelos cuando mejoren las condiciones.

📹: @AztecaNoticias pic.twitter.com/NyHBjj4bNB

— Político MX (@politicomx) September 27, 2024

The newspaper El Universal reported that an Aeroméxico airplane was stranded at the airport and that the parking lot at Terminal 2 — inaugurated six years ago by former President Enrique Peña Nieto — also remains flooded.

Juan Ramos, the head of monitoring at the Acapulco Civil Protection Communications Center, told the newspaper El País that in just four days, from Sept. 23 to 27, Acapulco was soaked by an entire year’s worth of rain.

“It was a lot of water,” Ramos stressed. “It was an extraordinary phenomenon that has surpassed all the statistics.”

Officials have reported that the number of dead in Guerrero has risen to 23, while 5,000 people have been displaced in the coastal city due to severe flooding and landslides.

Claudia Sheinbaum, who will be sworn in as Mexico’s new president on Tuesday, said her first trip as president would be to Guerrero, where she will “assess the damage” and ensure residents get “all necessary assistance.”

Meanwhile, another low-pressure system is developing off the coast, and more heavy rains are in the forecast for the area.

“It is essential that we remain alert and prepared. We will continue to report,” Guerrero Governor Evelyn Salgado wrote on her X account on Monday.

Which roads are closed in Guerrero?

John also wreaked havoc on highways in Guerrero, including several sections of the Chilpancingo-Acapulco highway, the Iguala-Chilpancingo highway and the Acapulco-Zihuatanejo highway. Authorities are working to repair damage caused by fallen trees, landslides and road collapses.

With reports from La Jornada, El Universal and El País

Death toll from ‘John’ rises to 29 as southwestern Mexico deals with widespread damage

By

MND Staff

-

September 30, 2024

6

The Zona Diamante district, where numerous resorts and luxury condominiums are located, is one of the worst affected areas of Acapulco after the passage of Hurricane John. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)

Hurricane John, which made landfall in Mexico twice last week, claimed 29 lives in three Pacific coast states, including more than 20 in Guerrero, according to news reports.

The EFE news agency and other media outlets reported that the death toll from John rose to 29 on Sunday after authorities confirmed four additional hurricane-related fatalities in Guerrero.

Guerrero's capital of Chilpancingo, located about two hours north of Acapulco, saw major flooding, causing homes to collapse. — Guerrero’s capital of Chilpancingo, located about two hours north of Acapulco, also saw major flooding that caused dozens of homes to collapse. (Dassaev Téllez Adame/Cuartoscuro)

The hurricane made landfall for the first time last Monday as a powerful Category 3 storm, slamming into the coast of southern Guerrero near the state’s border with Oaxaca.

After weakening and drifting offshore, John regained strength in the Pacific Ocean before making landfall for a second time last Friday as a tropical storm on the coast of the neighboring state of Michoacán.

According to reports, 23 of the 29 fatalities linked to Hurricane John occurred in Guerrero. Five deaths reportedly occurred in Oaxaca — where at least 80 landslides were reported — and one fatality was reported in Michoacán.

Some of the victims were killed in mudslides while others were swept away by raging floodwaters. The storm also caused significant damage to homes, commercial establishments and other structures, including bridges.

Authorities have begun cleanup efforts but there is still a lot of mud in the affected areas. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)

Powerful winds and the accompanying storm surge, as well as sinkholes caused by torrential rain, caused some buildings to collapse, including at least 13 restaurants in Acapulco, according to EFE.

The BBC reported that some places affected by John, described as a “zombie storm” because it returned to hurricane strength after initially dissipating, have “had almost a year’s worth of rainfall over a matter of days.”

On Sunday, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador provided an update on the situation in Acapulco, a city that still hasn’t fully recovered from the devastation wrought by Hurricane Otis, which made landfall as a Category 5 hurricane in October 2023.

Citing the latest report of Civil Protection authorities, López Obrador said that floodwaters were receding but noted that there is “a lot of mud in the streets.”

Authorities have begun cleanup efforts, electricity services have been reestablished and evacuations have been completed, the president said.

Residents of Chilpancingo received blankets and other essential items from local civil protection authorites. — Residents of Chilpancingo received blankets and other essential items from local civil protection authorities. (@PC_Guerrero/X)

“There are 1,000 people in shelters; they are guaranteed three hot meals a day and health services, and are given groceries and water,” he wrote.

“There is no looting,” López Obrador said, highlighting that the security situation in Acapulco has not significantly deteriorated, as occurred after Hurricane Otis.

“Unfortunately, the number of deceased people, according to the state Attorney General’s Office, is 15,” López Obrador said, apparently referring to hurricane-related fatalities in Acapulco.

He also said that “the first phase” of “humanitarian rescue” efforts carried out by the army, navy and National Guard were almost complete. López Obrador added that a “house by house” census would be carried out to assess damage and provide “direct support” to victims.

Boats are the only mode of transport — or evacuation — for some acapulqueños

With some neighborhoods in Acapulco completely under water, many acapulqueños, as residents of the city are known, have had to rely on boats to get to and leave their homes.

The Zona Diamante district, where numerous resorts and luxury condominiums are located, is one of the worst affected areas.

Among those who have had to use the services of lancheros (boatmen) are hundreds of residents of the Vicente Guerrero 2000 residential complex, located near an overflowing lagoon in Acapulco.

“What we want the most is for the rain to stop,” Cyndi Viridiana Gómez told the newspaper El Universal while on her way home — by boat — from a shopping center.

“When it stops raining, the water will go down and we’ll be able to clean up and see what [still] works and what we’ll have to throw out,” she said, referring to furniture and domestic appliances.

El día de hoy, con #FuerzaOperativaGuerrero en marcha, hemos desplegado 33 motos acuáticas, 3 lanchas y un catamarán, logrando rescatar a cerca de mil 123 personas en Acapulco.

Tenemos un gran compromiso con ustedes, no vamos a parar hasta llegar y apoyar a las familias… pic.twitter.com/drmzuvddoe

— Evelyn Salgado Pineda (@EvelynSalgadoP) September 28, 2024

Armando Vázquez, another resident of the Vicente Guerrero 2000 complex, told El Universal that his home was flooded with “almost two meters” of water.

“We left by boat,” said Vázquez, who acknowledged it would take some time for the floodwaters to recede.

Some acapulqueños were forced to climb onto the roofs of their homes to take refuge from rising waters. Over 5,000 people had to be evacuated, authorities said.

One Acapulco resident, Bárbara Encinas, told the AFP news agency that the situation was “critical” and that she and other locals were “desperate.”

“We still haven’t recovered from Hurricane Otis,” she said. “Now, we’re in a situation that appears to be worse.”

Marta Soteldo, another Acapulco resident, told AFP that she became “sick with nerves” when strong winds whipped up dust and lifted sheet roofs off homes early last week.

“Children became hysterical,” she added.

Some 25,000 military and National Guard personnel were deployed to coastal Guerrero to assist affected residents and contribute to cleanup efforts.

“We’re rescuing those who were trapped by flooding in neighborhoods in Acapulco,” López Obrador said late last week.

AMLO, who will cede the presidential sash to Claudia Sheinbaum on Tuesday, said that the amount of rain that fell during four consecutive days in southern Pacific coast states “hadn’t been seen in a long time.”

Sheinbaum to visit Acapulco on Wednesday

A day after she is sworn in as Mexico’s first female president, Claudia Sheinbaum intends to travel to Acapulco to assess the situation in the storm-ravaged city.

The president-elect said in a social media post that she had spoken to Guerrero Governor Evelyn Salgado and agreed to visit Acapulco on Wednesday afternoon with members of her cabinet.

In addition to assessing the situation on the ground, Sheinbaum said that federal authorities would look at plans “to continue with all the help necessary for Guerrero” to recover from Hurricane John.

“In the same way, we will continue the support that the government of President López Obrador is providing to Oaxaca and Michoacán,” she said.

“We are humanist governments,” Sheinbaum said, referring to the current federal administration, and that which she will lead for six years starting on Tuesday.

With reports from El Universal, EFE, BBC, Infobae and AFP

Cracked sidewalks and crowded streets: A New Yorker’s reflection on CDMX

By

Monica Belot

-

September 29, 2024

16

CDMX v NYC — The beating urban hearts of two very very different areas, Mexico City and New York City are worlds apart, despite their similarities. (Anton Lukin/Paul Huisman/Unsplash)

After nearly two years spent living in Mexico City, I’ve recently returned to my native New York City for work. And, after my love affair with CDMX, the transition has been a difficult one. Despite NYC being my home for 12 years. I’m seeing it with new eyes and, sometimes, the culture shock feels like a rude awakening. I’ve been roughly thrown back into the crowded hustle of New York life, where the frenetic energy is akin to furiously paddling to stay afloat in freezing waters inundated with swimmers — all wearing fixed smiles that barely conceal their harried eyes. The sense of ambition permeating the concrete jungle of New York is palpable, driven by a survival instinct that jarringly kicks in, screeching “Achieve! Accomplish! Now! Hurry! Run! WIN! This busyness is at the heart of the argument between the CDMX vs NYC question — how do you want to live your life?

A brief Google search yields hundreds of results unpacking the difference between Mexico City and New York City, most focusing on “functional” factors: things like weather differences, city size, population statistics, transportation systems, and walkability. And truly, many of these logistical components are useful to know. Yet aside from the surface level differences between the two cities, there is something much more profound characterizing each core of the two metropoles. What is it that really defines the soul of each city?

Hustle vs. Flow

Grand Central Station New York City — Both are megacities, but the flow of the crowds in NYC and CDMX couldn’t be more different. (Nicolai Berntsen/Unsplash)

Life in Mexico City unfolds at a more deliberate pace. Mornings stretch slowly, work often happens at outdoor café tables dappled by gentle sunshine, and activities are punctuated by walks through streets filled with lush foliage and a sense of community. Mexico certainly has its own challenges, but I’ve found it to be a place where time seems to flow rather than race, and where life is lived rather than conquered. This difference in urban rhythm goes beyond mere surface happenings; it reflects a difference in cultural values and approach to life.

Urban Migration

With the recent surge of digital nomads, Mexico City has become a central place on the map for young professionals seeking non-traditional lifestyles. Remote work opportunities have given individuals (myself included) the ability to leave the crowded, stressful environments of cities like New York, and work from anywhere in the world.

For many expatriates, particularly those from high-pressure, over-achieving urban centers, Mexico City has become a sanctuary, providing a sense of refuge and unprecedented calm. A friend once characterized it succinctly: New York taught me how to hustle. Mexico City taught me how to live.

However, this influx of remote workers hasn’t been without controversy. While many Mexicans warmly welcome outsiders, there’s a growing undercurrent of resentment among some locals. They view digital nomads, with their comparatively high salaries, as catalysts for gentrification and rising costs of living. The tension highlights the complexities of globalization and cultural preservation in today’s world.

Lingering versus loitering

Taco stands are a social hub for Mexicans of all classes, uniting people in a way that feels impossible in New York. (Janet Glaser)

A friend from my writing group in Mexico City once brought up the distinction between the concepts of “lingering versus loitering.” It’s interesting food for thought. In New York, efficiency reigns. Public spaces often seem designed to discourage unproductive loitering, pushing people onward into the cycle of perpetual motion. Mexico City, however, embraces the art of lingering. Streets become impromptu social centers, neighbors exchange greetings, and conversations bloom in unexpected corners. Taco stands on the streets are hubs of prolonged banter, meal-sharing and conversation. While New Yorkers wear their busyness and efficiency as a badge of honor, chilangos (Mexico City locals) are renowned for their warmth. It’s a city where “Cómo estás?” is more than a passing greeting – it’s an invitation to connect and catch up.

Nature and cracked sidewalks

The interplay of nature and urban spaces marks another significant difference between the two cities. In many parts of Mexico City, nature is deeply integrated into the city. The streets of Condesa, for instance, are a lush blend of jungle-like foliage and urban boulevard replete with cafes and shops. Trees are omnipresent, and plants decorate balconies and building facades, creating a sense of living in nature with a “city experience”. In New York, by contrast, it’s not uncommon to walk for blocks encountering nothing more than a sickly bush, allocated a tiny square of the sidewalk, struggling to survive in the harsh environment.

Meanwhile, Central Park might be the jewel of Manhattan, but Mexico City’s Chapultepec Park — twice the size — blows it away. Central Park is a weekend spot for most, while opportunities to walk through lush parks or greenery on one’s daily route in Mexico City abound. In New York, nature feels like a rare afterthought. In many parts of Mexico City, it’s part of everyday life.

Aerial image of Chapultepec park — An aerial view of the giant Bosque de Chapultepec in Mexico City. (Santiago Arau/Gob MX)

Once in Roma Norte, I recall sitting at a cafe table next to a couple from New York. The two were complaining about the annoyance of walking on Mexico City’s cracked, sometimes uneven sidewalks. I mulled over their conversation for longer than I probably should have. To me, these imperfect sidewalks, largely a result of the city’s seismic activity, represented something beautiful. The cracks allowed the tree roots and shoots to creep through among the urban setting. They served as a metaphor for the lack of perfection-focused commerciality that characterizes many US cities. They reflected the balance between urban development, and the respect for nature that characterizes Mexico’s indigenous heritage and deep-rooted connection to the natural world.

Must love dogs: Mexico edition

An unexpected but delightful aspect of life in Mexico City is its vibrant dog culture. It’s a pup-lover’s paradise. Canine companions are nearly everywhere, seamlessly integrated into the city’s daily life. You’ll find them lounging on sidewalks while their owners enjoy a meal at a café, happily walking off-leash through the streets, playing in dog parks, and even hanging out inside restaurants. This canine-friendly atmosphere is facilitated by the city’s abundance of natural elements, its overall dog-loving community, and the numerous small parks with dedicated canine areas scattered throughout the city

Being surrounded by these furry friends wherever you go, not only adds an extra layer of warmth to the city; it allows for greater interaction as smiles are exchanged in passing at silly canine antics, and passersby stop to pet the furry buddies and briefly converse with their owners.

From tacos to bagels

Taco Bagel — Apologies to both the NYC and CDMX communities. (Härkis)

The culinary scene of New York and Mexico City offers another interesting point of comparison. New York, true to its reputation as a global melting pot, offers a plethora of diverse ethnic cuisines. Mexico City, while not matching this level of global variety, offers something perhaps more valuable — an incredible depth of flavor in its local cuisine and produce.

Fruits and vegetables in Mexico City seem to taste more like themselves than anywhere. This quality of ingredients often differs from that of New York, where — perhaps as an analogy for the city itself — things often “look” great but can lack depth of flavor.

This difference might be attributed to Mexico’s agricultural practices, which are less reliant on GMOs, herbicides and large-scale corporate farming. Government initiatives in Mexico have prioritized a reduced dependence on chemical inputs in agriculture, and strong support of smallholder farmers and traditional farming methods. The result is that the food in Mexico, from street tacos to high-end restaurants, is consistently outstanding.

Choose your own adventure

New York’s efficiency and drive have fueled incredible achievements and innovations, while Mexico City’s more relaxed approach fosters a different kind of creativity and human connection.

In the end, perhaps it’s not about which city is better, but about one’s ability to cultivate the hustle when needed, but also to remember the art of lingering, of savoring, of truly living – no matter where you make your home. For now, I’m counting down the days until I can return to my little nest in Condesa.

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.

Puerto Vallarta after dark: A night owl’s guide

By

Meagan Drillinger

-

September 29, 2024

0

La Santa nightclub, Puerto Vallarta — Puerto Vallarta comes to life when the sun goes down. Check out these top class night spots to dance, drink and dine the night away. (Discovery Vallarta)

When the sun goes down, the beaches of Puerto Vallarta make way for moonlit streets and pulsing energy. This energetic Pacific coast city transforms into a playground for night owls, offering everything from cold Coronas and classy cocktails to sweaty dance floors and divey dens. Speaking as a laid-back lounge lover and a dancer-til-dawn in this city over the past 11 years, it’s undeniable that Puerto Vallarta has some of the best nightlife in Mexico. Here are some of the city’s best nighttime haunts.

Colibri: A mixology masterpiece

Mixology is elevated into a high art form at Colibri. (Colibri)

Colibri is a sexy, dimly lit cocktail bar in the heart of Centro, just steps from the Malecón. Designed like a tropical speakeasy, the green glow of neon lights washes over the foliage-filled courtyard. But this isn’t your typical rum and Coke kind of place: here, bartenders are artists, crafting cocktails that are as photogenic as they are potent and delicious. Try the Papu’s Sazón, a mezcal-based cocktail served with green tomatillo jam, pineapple juice and a spicy homemade jalapeño liqueur.

Mr. Flamingo: Open-air street party

If you’ve got a good buzz going, the next stop has to be Mr. Flamingo. On a buzzy corner in the Zona Romántica, Mr. Flamingo is one of Puerto Vallarta’s most popular and lively gay bars. With its open-air design, neon pink flamingos and an incredibly bubbly and inclusive ground, this is the place in town to grab a margarita and dance to an infectious playlist of pop, retro and Latin hits. The crowd often spills into the street, creating a block-party vibe that is impossible to avoid. Don’t be surprised if you end up staying longer than planned.

El Tasting Room: For low-key wine lovers

El Tasting Room: A big night on the town, but make it classy. (El Tasting Room/Instagram)

If the idea of downing tequila shots at Mr. Flamingo doesn’t appeal to you, no worries— Puerto Vallarta has something for every kind of night owl. Enter El Tasting Room, an intimate wine bar that offers a world-class selection of wines in an upscale yet approachable environment. Whether you’re a wine aficionado or someone who just wants to enjoy a good glass of cabernet, the staff will help guide you to a great pour. Plus, they serve tapas, which is great if you need a little refuel.

Bar La Playa: Effortlessly cool

Sometimes all you need is a hole-in-the-wall bar with great drinks and good vibes. That’s exactly what you’ll find at Bar La Playa. This unassuming bar, also in Zona Romántica, has garnered a local cult following for its strong drinks and welcoming atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you can pull up a stool, chat with strangers and see where the evening takes you.

The Top Sky Bar: Rooftop vibes

Dinner with a view can be yours at The Top. (The Top Sky Bar)

You can quite literally elevate the night at The Top Sky Bar. Perched high above the city, this chic rooftop bar has sweeping views over the Bay of Banderas and the lights of Zona Romántica and beyond. The ambiance is equal parts trendy and romantic, making it a prime spot for either a date night or a group hangout. Order a mojito and soak in the ocean breeze. It’s a great spot for sunset, too.

La Santa: Late-night salsa

Let’s be honest. No Puerto Vallarta nightlife guide would be complete without a nightclub. If you’re looking for a glamorous late-night spot where you can dance until your feet hurt, head to La Santa in the Zona Hotelera. This exclusive club attracts a fashionable crowd ready to party in style. With state-of-the-art lighting, booming music and high-end cocktails, La Santa is definitely on a whole new level. VIP tables line the dance floor, so if you’re feeling fancy, this is the spot to splurge.

La Bodeguita del Medio: Classic salsa

Don’t worry: you don’t need to dig deep into your pockets to enjoy a good night of salsa in Puerto Vallarta. Trade the club beats for something more classic at La Bodeguita del Medio. This iconic Cuban bar on the Malecón brings Havana’s vibrant energy to Vallarta, complete with live salsa music, dancing and, of course, mojitos. You’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Cuba as the dance floor starts to heat up. Even if you don’t know how to salsa, this is still an incredibly fun atmosphere for drinks and people-watching.

Roxy Rock House: Rock it out

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If rooftop lounging is a little too fancy for you, fear not. Vallarta’s nightlife goes in every direction. Get the best in rock’n’roll energy at Roxy Rock House. A tribute to classic rock, the bar features live bands and a playlist that skews heavily toward rock classics. The grungy, unpretentious vibe makes it a great place to grab a beer and jam out to playlists that feature bands like The Rolling Stones and Metallica.

El Soñador: A local gem

Tucked away in the Zona Romántica, this bi-level bar is all about ambiance, great drinks and a social atmosphere. The relaxed, dimly lit El Soñador has pool tables on the first floor and an open-air rooftop area with neon signs and sexy graffiti. The bartenders are always smiling, and you’ll find a great mix of locals, expats and tourists.

Mandala: A Malecón maybe

I can’t write about Puerto Vallarta’s nightlife without mentioning at least one of the legendary late-night dance clubs on the Malecón. There are three that most tourists gravitate to: La Vaquita, Zoo Bar and Mandala. All three have the same high-octane energy, extravagant design, bottle service and high prices. They’re fun for a night if you’re 25 and it’s your first time in Puerto Vallarta. But other than that, I’d say walk you can probably skip these.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Mexico City

By

Greg Custer

-

September 29, 2024

8

Where to live in Mexico 2024 guide: Mexico City — Few cities anywhere in the world can pretend to boast even a fraction of the history and importance of Mexico City. The capital is a riot of color, life and chaos - and it is uniquely perfect for Mexico living.

This series has explored over two dozen locations for viable, sustained overseas living across a broad diversity of physical and cultural spaces. Saving for last the “Gran Manzana” of Latin America — Mexico City — was not by accident. As this series’ creator, I needed some reflection, writing about Mexico’s other potential living spots as prep to reflect on this week’s essay. Even with this buffer, should I write about a place that’s embraced and showered with praise for all its “culture” and “diversity”? Or should I fall into the “Gringo Go Home” narrative that foreigners (especially Americans) should just pack up and go back to their original Starbucks?

There’s also my hesitation to tell you about living in one of the most complex neighborhood landscapes in this hemisphere, when this publication has some fine local correspondents living daily lives in this pulsating mass of humanity.

Catedral de la Ciudad de México — The Mexica and Spanish past stand shoulder-to-shoulder with modern day Mexico across swathes of the city. (Laurentiu Morariu/Unsplash)

As one of my favorite travel writers, Brit, Kate Simon puts it, “At one moment it’s a garbage heap, the next it’s the garden of Eden.” This sentiment certainly applied a generation ago, when Mexico City was presented to the world as a doomsday landscape of unregulated sprawl. It still is, but the 16 boroughs and over 1,800 neighborhoods are unquestionably better managed than before.

Before deciding to live here, you’ll need to honestly ask yourself the following questions:

Can you live and recreate at over 7,000 feet, some months with inversion layer smog? Can you embrace public transportation mobility and casually rub shoulders — and other body parts — with total strangers? Will you accept the flood of urban, external stimuli with a very low likelihood of finding fluent English speakers? Will your curiosity be enough motivation to get out of whatever comfortable colonia you settle into, and relish pockets of human expression across 3,000 square kilometers of sprawl? That is, of course, before the risk of a serious earthquake — the most recent serious event was in 2017 and evacuation alarms remain a common occurrence.

If you live in Mexico and hope to ever claim you “know” your adopted nation, you really must spend some time here. Sadly, most foreigners and nearly all of my lakeside expat friends and acquaintances have not made the effort. I suspect this applies to my coast-hugging fellow countrymen and women who are living a “real” Mexico existence without feeling the need to get acquainted with the city that’s the economic, cultural, political, and “everything Mexico” touchstone. And it takes more than an escorted four-days seeing the old buildings, ruins and mercados or double-decker red bus “highlights” tour to imprint how CDMX is likely the most captivating urban space you’re likely to ever experience. That’s before we even begin to talk about the food.

View of Mexico City Reforma — Ultra-modern Mexico sits side-by-side with traditional neighborhoods in a way not often seen elsewhere in the country. (Anton Lukin/Unsplash)

Anyone who claims they don’t like this place has either made only a drive-by attempt, glancing from a distance or not been exposed to places and micro spaces that defy and compensate for the city’s glaring urban challenges, whether they be traffic, political protests, seasonally poor air quality, tarp settlements or citizen indifference to what’s crumbling around them. In each of the four areas targeted in our ratings there are utterly fascinating, often hidden, treasures of ingenuity and artistic exuberance.

Tell me you can walk the Centro Histórico and the Diego Rivera National Palace murals and not be in utter awe, or have a white linen late afternoon lunch at the San Angel Inn with a shrug, or wander the Museo de Arte Popular past Miguel Covarrubias’s monumental map of Mexico mural with indifference, or see the sunken stone baths used by Mexica royalty in Chapultepec Park and not surrender to the grandeur of this seven thousand foot high, volcano encircled, former lakebed that’s been witness to more history, triumph and tragedy than anywhere else on the continent.

The city’s districts are unlike anything most North Americans can even imagine. Mexico City housed three million residents as recently as the 1950’s, (22 million today in the metro area, almost one-fifth of all Mexicans), across a gigantic, flat valley floor, dotted with 16th century satellite “pueblos,” with dusty dirt roads connecting to the capital’s government buildings, colonial-era elite residences and a grid-like central city core. As the city spread, small towns were gobbled up and often obliterated. Yet some spaces survived, and as a result, the Mexico City of today feels more like a jamboree of competing small towns than a coherent city.

Condesa, Polanco and La Roma

Parque España, the beating heart of the upmarket districts of Condesa and Roma. (Naya Homes)

What is there to say about the “Expat triangle” of western Mexico City that hasn’t already been said? Art, culture, parks, history, Michelin-star dining, architecture and probably the highest standard of living in all of Mexico is found here. There is easy access to the rest of the city, metro stops abound and Benito Juarez International Airport is close enough that even in bad traffic, you’ll make your flight.

San Ángel

The city’s southern area is where colonia life takes its deepest breath. It’s greener, at a slightly lower elevation, more residential, and further away from the city’s clogged center and industrial north. Places like San Ángel, Coyoacan, and Chimalistac are delightful, but hardly undiscovered.

San Ángel is a picturesque village that has somehow maintained the atmosphere of a remote mountain retreat. In colonial days it was an enclave for the city’s aristocrats. Its meandering cobblestone streets, thick-walled opulent mansion estates, small plazas and parks make San Ángel a pleasant respite from the city’s clamor. The lovely Plaza San Jacinto is a square that invites relaxation and contemplation, especially mid-week, sans the weekenders visiting for the famous Bazar del Sabado, Mexico City’s most beloved weekend “artsy” hang-out.

Coyoacán

Coyoacán lies about a mile east of San Angel and is also a throwback to Mexico City’s colonial days. Following the conquest, it nearly replaced Tenochtitlan as the site for the new capital. Coyoacán is larger and has a more bohemian, young intellectual beat. And of course, there is magnificent UNAM, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s a wonder to behold of early urban planning, striking architecture, murals, the Olympic and Azteca stadiums and green spaces.

Santa Fé

Santa Fe, Mexico City — (Marquitored/Reddit)

Modern Santa Fé, built on top of what was once a municipal dump, is the business hub of the 21st Century capital. Living here feels more like Singapore or Hong Kong than Mexico at times, with towering, modern blocks, replete with every amenity you could ask for, perfectly sculpted parks, and recently, modern transport connections to the city center. Despite this, it is still somewhat removed from the heart of the “real” Mexico City, and is devoid of much of the culture that makes the capital such a truly magical place. Traffic can be an absolute nightmare — a salient warning when you consider it can be up to 3 hours from the airport at peak rush hour.

All of this wonder and diversity comes with a disclaimer from our resident “colonia-ista,” Bethany Platanella: “If you plan to visit as many alcadías as possible, please do your due diligence before going! Areas like Iztapalapa, Xochimilco, Tlalpan, and parts of Cuauhtémoc are not safe and should be avoided, especially at night. We recommend taking a guided tour where possible.”

Finally, as if all this weren’t enough, Mexico City is an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding states of Hidalgo, Puebla, Mexico, Morelos and others. Within two hours by bus or car, urban inconveniences melt away as rural Central Mexico unfolds in a mosaic of colonial towns, little-visited ancient ruins, Spanish-inspired cities, alpine forests and lush semi-tropical valleys. So, for the urban-inclined, Mexico City can be the perfect place to “dig in,” while “getting out” offers a lifetime of “real Mexico” escapes.

The ratings

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here, including ratings for Yucatán, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, the Baja California peninsula, Jalisco, Guanajuato, Northern and Mid- Pacific trios of beachside cities and three major Bajío metropolitan areas.

Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.