Many cultures have contributed to the iconic dishes that make up Mexican cuisine. Nuevo León’s beloved goat-based cabrito, for example, has Sephardic Jewish roots. Its history dates back to 15th-century Spain and is associated with one of that nation’s darkest episodes. In 1492, the year of Columbus’ first voyage of discovery, the Alhambra Decree was issued in Spain, expelling from the country all Jews and Muslims who refused to convert to Christianity.
Those who did change faiths became known as conversos. However, it wasn’t enough to simply become a Christian in name only. This was the era of the Spanish Inquisition, whose stated purpose was to combat heresy by means that included torture and putting heretics to death.

How Nuevo León was settled
The first Sephardic Jews from Portugal and Spain arrived in Mexico as converso conquistadors under Hernán Cortés in 1519. However, it was the New Kingdom of León, established in 1579 via a decree by King Felipe II, that would later become the preferred landing spot for conversos. Among these New Christians were crypto-Jews, who were ostensibly Catholic but still practiced Judaism privately.
The reasons for this were not only that the man named as governor by the king, Luis de Carvajal y de la Cueva, was the son of conversos, but the fact that he was permitted to populate the area with settlers exempted from the law of limpieza de sangre (blood purity), meant to prevent Jewish and Muslim converts to Catholicism from participating in some areas of civic life, such as holding public office, and intermarriage between traditional Catholic families and New Christians.
That’s not to say that Nuevo León was a paradise of tolerance in the 16th century. Carvajal himself later died in a Mexico City prison after he was accused of secretly practicing Judaism, and several members of his family were burned at the stake. However, conversos in Nuevo León did face less scrutiny from the Inquisition, which had spread to Mexico by 1571.
The origins and preparation of cabrito

This history was extraordinarily influential in the development of cuisine in Nuevo León. Goats, for instance, were introduced to the state by the Spanish in the 16th century and proved much more suited to the climate and terrain than lamb, although this livestock too was introduced.
Cabrito is made from kid. That name suggests goats under one year of age, although regionally, the goats chosen are typically only between 28 and 40 days old. This is so they’re only milk-fed since their flavor changes when they begin getting other nourishment.
The reason for this requirement is unusual: goats are born with stomachs featuring four compartments. Before they’re weaned, they use only one part. Afterward, they use all four, which causes them to lose fat around their kidneys. Only males are slaughtered, with the females reserved for milk production— another Nuevo León staple, with nearly 4,000 liters produced annually.
Several ways of preparing cabrito have evolved over the centuries, but the most traditional and visually distinctive is cabrito al pastor. The kid is splayed out on a spit, with the length of the rod running parallel to the spine, a butterfly-style set-up that resembles nothing so much as a crucifixion. No, there is no known religious significance for this.
The kid is then spit roasted at an angle over a bed of mesquite coals for two to three hours.
Cabrito evolutions and variations

Cabrito al pastor, as it was made in the 16th century, relied on the tenderness of the kid for its natural flavors. Several parts are still prized for these natural flavors, even though spicy Mexican flavors have added complexity to the dish as it has evolved. The fatty area around the kidneys, called riñonada, is the most sought-after delicacy. But machito, meaning organ meats like heart and liver, entrails and fat, is likewise popular.
“It’s a style that was imported to Mexico, but the way we eat cabrito today is totally Mexican, with tortillas and spicy salsas,” explains author and restaurateur Juan Ramón Cárdenas, per Vice. “There’s also a side dish with more Mexican influence called fritada de cabrito, where the kid’s entrails are cooked in its blood. This is certainly not an entirely Jewish dish because, as far as I understand, Jews don’t eat blood.”
Although northern states such as Coahuila are known for great cabrito, Monterrey, the capital of Nuevo Leon, remains the mecca thanks to iconic purveyors such as El Gran Pastor and El Rey del Cabrito.
In addition to the fritada and al pastor styles, there’s also a variation known as cabrito en salsa, in which the portioned kid is braised in a tomato-based sauce with onions, garlic, serrano chili peppers and seasonings such as bay leaves, black pepper and oregano.
The land of green gold
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The latter is also a specialty in Nuevo Leon, especially in the small town of Higueras, where it’s known as oro verde (green gold) and serves as the centerpiece of the annual Feria del Orégano in April.
Mexico is the world’s second largest producer of dried oregano, behind Turkey. Although Nuevo Leon is not its top oregano-producing state, it is known for the quality and diversity of its oregano: six different species are grown in the state.
“It’s an oregano that competes with that of Turkey and Italy in every way. If we’re talking about flavor, consistency and aroma, it’s a quality oregano,” Higueras’s Mayor, Rafael González Martínez, has proudly noted.
Monterrey is a Mexican beverage giant
Monterrey is a significant manufacturing center, and several of the country’s biggest food and drink producers are headquartered or have facilities here. Most notable, perhaps, is Fomento Económico Mexicano (FEMSA), operator of the largest Coca-Cola bottling group in the world by sales volume and of Oxxo, the largest convenience store chain in Latin America, with over 20,000 locations in Mexico serving 13 million customers daily. The company started as Cerveceria Cuauhtémoc in 1890, selling Carta Blanca. However, after a merger to become Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma in 1985, the brewery operation was acquired by Heineken in 2010 in exchange for stock.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.