The peso reached its strongest level to the US dollar since December 2015 on Wednesday morning. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar / Cuartoscuro.com)
The Mexican peso strengthened to 16.82 to the US dollar on Wednesday morning on the back of data that showed that annual inflation in the United States slowed to 3% in June, its lowest level in over two years.
It’s the second time in a week that the USD-MXN exchange rate has dipped below 17 after the greenback briefly went under that level last Wednesday.
According to data from the financial and media company Bloomberg, the 16.82 rate – the peso’s strongest position since December 2015 – was reached at 8 a.m. Mexico City time.
The peso had weakened slightly by 9 a.m. to trade at 16.83 to the dollar.
Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at the Mexican bank Banco Base, noted on Twitter that the peso strengthened following the publication of U.S. inflation data that showed a rate in June “below the expectations of the market.”
The decline in the inflation rate in the United States makes it less likely that the U.S. Federal Reserve will raise interest rates later this month. The dollar strengthened last week after positive private employment data in the U.S. raised expectations that the Fed would increase its interest rate from the current 5% to 5.25% range.
Analysts cite the Bank of Mexico’s high benchmark interest rate – currently 11.25% – and the significant difference between that rate and that of the Fed as one factor in the current strength of the peso. Strong incoming flows of foreign capital and remittances are among the other factors cited.
Mexico’s currency has appreciated significantly this year after starting 2023 at about 19.5 to the U.S. dollar.
President López Obrador has celebrated the success of the peso in 2023, and asserts that his government’s management of the economy is a major reason for the gains it has made.
When the greenback dipped below 17 last week, he said he was “very happy” because a stronger peso reduces public debt contracted in dollars.
Protestors released the weapons and hostages seized on Monday. (Dassaev Téllez Adame/Cuartoscuro)
Protestors in Guerrero who had blockaded the Autopista del Sol highway on the southern outskirts of state capital Chilpancingo intermittently since Monday agreed to end their protest on Tuesday afternoon, releasing their 13 hostages and returning weapons, handcuffs and an armored troop carrier they’d seized from their law enforcement captives.
After a brief respite from another blockade yesterday, the highway was blocked again in both directions by 6:30 a.m. Tuesday, according to the federal roads and bridges agency Capufe. Media reports said the protesters used stones, tires and vehicles to block the highway.
Images of protestors driving the seized Black Mamba around the city were circulated on social media. (Vianey Ponce Gómez/Twitter)
The protesters were mostly residents of the nearby mountain communities of San Miguel Totolapan and Heliodoro Castillo. They said they want the government to fulfill a promise to invest 5 million pesos (US $293,000) to improve local roads, of which they say only 500,000 pesos (US $29,000) have been delivered.
However, authorities claim that Monday’s protest was in fact sparked by the arrest of two members of the Los Ardillos criminal group.
“Yesterday in Chilpancingo, there was a demonstration initiated at the will of two people identified as criminal leaders, who were arrested in possession of cartridges, magazines and drugs and linked to various crimes in this region,” said Rosa Icela Rodríguez, head of the Ministry of Citizen Security and Protection (SSPC) at President López Obrador’s daily press conference Tuesday morning.
Rodríguez condemned the actions of protestors and claimed that many had been forced to demonstrate by criminal groups. Footage on social media appeared to show a large crowd cheering, as a “Black Mamba” troop carrier was used to break open a gate. At around 11 a.m. local time, Guerrero Minister of Government Ludwig Reynoso Núñez initiated talks with community leaders to discuss their demands.
Protestors said they were protesting a promised 4.5 million peso infrastructure project yet to materialize. (Dassaev Téllez Adame/Cuartoscuro)
While the highway was cleared around 7 p.m. on Monday, protestors left with 13 captives and the armored vehicle belonging to the Public Security Ministry. The captives — five members of the National Guard, five state policemen and one federal and two local government officials — were released early Tuesday afternoon after lengthy negotiations.
It is unclear what protesters were promised in return.
In his Tuesday morning press conference, President López Obrador called on locals “not to allow themselves to be manipulated by those who direct these gangs that are linked to crime.” He insisted that the disturbance would be resolved without force.
During the second protest, most businesses in Chilpancingo were shut, public transport was reduced, and state Education Minister Marcial Rodríguez Saldaña said schools would remain closed as there was no way to ensure pupils’ safety.
Security forces say that the protests were a reprisal for the arrest of two local gang leaders. (Dassaev Téllez Adame/Cuartoscuro)
The protests ended peacefully, and the road is once again open as normal.
The Defense Ministry has identified 16 criminal groups operating in Guerrero, including Los Ardillos. These groups are competing for control of drug sales, extortion and kidnapping rackets and control of opium production in the area, competition that has driven a wave of homicides in the area.
In June of 2022, local taxi drivers blocked theAutopista del Sol highway in the same area to protest the state government’s failure to provide security for transport workers.
Mexico has scored in the top rankings of the annual expat survey for five years. (Humphrey Muleba/Unsplash)
Mexico has once again ranked highly as a place for expats to live and work.
According to the Expat Insider 2023 survey by global expat network Internations, 90% of expats living in Mexico say they’re happy with their life in the country, compared to 72% of expats living in other locations around the world.
While Mexico has long been considered a retirement hub for U.S. expats, respondents in the new survey average 54.6 years old, suggesting that the digital nomad trend has attracted a greater number of younger, working expats than in the past. (Internations)
The survey, launched in 2014, ranks 53 destinations based on five indicators: quality of life, ease of settling in, working abroad, personal finance and an “expat essentials” index, which covers housing, administration, language and digital life.
Over the last decade, expats in Mexico have consistently ranked the country among the Top 5 in the world, mainly due to the ease of settling in, locals’ friendliness to foreigners and the ease of building one’s own community.
Mexico expats said they found it easy to settle in (the nation ranked at the top of this list for the fifth consecutive year) due to locals’ friendliness and the ease of building friendships with Mexicans. Around three out of four expats (74%) said they find it easy to make friends with local residents compared to the global average of 43%.
This result could explain why foreigners in Mexico said they have a personal support network in the country — it ranked No. 2 on this survey question — and why Mexico ranked No. 4 for expats reporting that they’re overall happy with their social lives.
Mexico’s outstanding food and drink options helped contribute to its continued success as an expat destination. (Unsplash)
Mexico secures another number-one ranking for welcoming expats. Many expats cited how simple it was to get used to Mexican culture.
Mexico ranked No. 6 in the affordable-living category, with respondents saying it was easy to find housing that’s affordable. According to Expat Insider, 71% of expats in Mexico are happy with the general cost of living here — compared to only 44% globally. Unsurprisingly, a whopping 80% reported being satisfied with their financial situation, compared to 58% globally.
Expats here also said they felt satisfied with their work-life balance living in Mexico. The country ranked No. 1 on how expats here feel about their personal career opportunities here. Mexico also ranked the country high among others for fair pay: it ranked No. 5.
However, going deeper, the quality of life questions revealed mixed results. While the highest-ranking answer that Mexico expats gave for moving here was for a better quality of life (16%), Mexico ranked No. 45 among countries on a question about how expats felt about political stability in their adopted country. In addition, 18% of respondents who live in Mexico said they don’t feel safe here. That was more than double the global average of 8%.
Mexican weather and culture scored highly in the survey. (Delfina Beach Club)
On the positive side, Mexico expats gave high ratings to the country’s leisure options: it ranked No. 2. Expats reported loving Mexico’s culinary variety and its wealth of dining options, which sent Mexico to the top of the class with a number-one ranking. It ranked slightly lower on its culture and nightlife options (No. 3).
Where do most respondents hail from? Unsurprisingly, the United States (45%) topped the list. Coming in second was Canada, at a much lower 6%, which tied with Germany, also comprising 6%.
Among respondents, Mexico expats average out to 54.6 years old, possibly suggesting that the digital nomad trend may be changing Mexico’s expats demographics, attracting a greater number of younger, working expats than before. Expats here were also split nearly down the middle in terms of gender, with men making up 52% and women 48% of respondents.
While the survey saw responses from 171 different nationalities in 172 counties, the ties between Mexico and the United States may well have helped Mexico’s rankings, thanks to geographical and cultural closeness between the two nations. Expat Insider claims that the survey reflects expat attitudes in each country rather than a concrete ranking of international destinations.
To round out the Top 5, Spain came in second, followed by Panama, Malaysia and Taiwan.
Rainbow woman Ixchel rules the cycles of the moon and the harvest, making her one of the most revered — and feared — deity in Mayan pantheon. (Twitter)
One of Mayan mythology’s most important deities is the moon goddess Ixchel, or Ix Chel (pronounced Ishchel). Ixchel’s powers include everything governed by the cycles of the moon — water, fertility, harvests, pregnancy — as well as love and sexuality. She is also the patroness of the arts, textiles, painting, medicine and healing.
The Maya believe in the duality of the universe. Reflecting this duality, Ixchel is benevolent but can also be powerful and destructive. With her power, she can give life; but she can also take it away. She provides both rain for the harvests and medicines for healing, but she is also destructive, sending floods, diseases and curses that can affect the harvests and endanger people’s lives.
A ceramic artifact depicts Ixchel with a rabbit, representative of the moon in Mayan culture. (INAH)
The story of Ixchel originated in the Yucatán Peninsula and Guatemala in 1500 B.C. Part of her power comes from controlling the cycles of the moon which govern sowing and harvesting. She is often pictured alongside Chaac (the god of rain) because of their shared association with rain and crops. But she is depicted in many different incarnations.
In some paintings, Ixchel is depicted as a beautiful young maiden accompanied by a rabbit (who has his own place in Mayan mythology and also represents the moon). In other images, she is a woman weaving on a waist loom that represents the thread of life — it symbolizes the umbilical cord and the placenta. At times, she is also portrayed as a fierce older woman emptying a jug of water onto the earth, resulting in storms and devastation that destroys crops and ends lives.
In her role as a “punisher,” Ixchel is shown with symbols of death and destruction around her: a snake wrapped around her neck; her feet transformed into menacing claws and her skirt made of bones that form crosses.
She is also known by several different names, among them are Rainbow Woman (Ixchel), Big Rainbow (Chak Chel), White Moon Lady (Sak U’Ixik), Lady of the First Brush (Ix Chebel Yax) and Goddess of Childbirth (Sinal).
Isla Mujeres, an island destination off the coast of Cancún, was named Island of Women by the Spanish after they saw all of the statues to Ixchel. (Archive)
As the moon waxes and wanes, Ixchel changes from a young maiden to an old woman. It is said that with each cycle, she is reborn and allows the maidens (the stars) to fall in love.
Ixchel’s origin myth says that she was weaving on her waist loom one day when she caught the eye of Itzamná (the god of heaven and wisdom who would become her husband). As he is said to reside in the sky, Itzamná is sometimes referred to as the Sun King. According to myth, he’s the son of the creator god Hunab Ku and created the Mayan calendar, as well as the Mayan hieroglyphic writing system.
Together, Ixchel and Itzamná created Bacab — the four deities that hold up the corners of creation.
Their 13 children included Hun Hunahpu (the god of maize), Yum Kaax (the god of wild plants and animals who protected the harvest from predators), Ek Chuah (the god of cocoa and war and the patron of merchants), other sons who were gods of sacrifices and stars, and daughters who were goddesses of water, night and paradise.
Ixchel was such an important goddess that festivities celebrating her role in childbirth and medicine take place in the Mayan “zip” month of Aug. 21 to Sept. 13. She has two important temples: one on the island of Cozumel and one on a high cliff on the southern tip of Isla Mujeres, where it is said you can see a beautiful rainbow. In fact, the island was named Isla Mujeres by the Spanish, who saw all the statues to Ixchel and — not understanding the symbolism — called it the Island of Women.
Pilgrims in canoes travel from the port of Xcaret to the island of Cozumel, also known as the Mayan Sacred Journey, in honor of Ixchel. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)
Historically, Maya women and girls would make a pilgrimage to Ixchel’s temple on Cozumel twice in their lives, leaving in canoes from Puerto de Poló (today the site of the Xcaret theme park and resorts). The first trip took place when a girl’s mother took her to the temple; then, when the girl became a mother, she took her daughter to the temple.
Once there, they would leave offerings of flowers and food and images of the goddess. This ceremony would be accompanied by dancing and singing.
This Mayan sacred journey is still enacted every year on May 26. Beginning at Xcaret, hundreds of Mayan canoes filled with pilgrims cross the Caribbean Sea to the island of Cozumel to visit Ixchel’s temple and receive her blessings.
Uxmal, located 50 miles from Mérida, also has a large temple dedicated to Ixchel: the Pyramid of the Magician, a reference to her magical ability to turn the Sun King’s favor into a bountiful harvest.
According to myth, when Ixchel dies, dragonflies sing over her for 183 days, after which she comes back to life and goes to find her husband in his palace. On the way there, she flirts with his brother Morningstar. Itzamná responds by flying into a jealous rage, and Ixchel hides from him in her Temple of Night. From there, she continues to nurture Earth’s pregnant women.
As the goddess of fertility and childbirth, Ixchel is responsible for the formation of the baby in the womb and decides whether the child will be male or female. To ensure a successful birth, Maya midwives place Ixchel’s image under the birthing bed.
Dancers honor Ixchel in Cozumel as part of an annual pilgrimage to her temple on the island. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)
Due to the importance of Ixchel to the Maya — especially to women — the Pueblo del Maíz theme park has organized a festival to celebrate the goddess since 2018. There is also a celebration on the island of Cozumel.
The Walk to Ixchel is held each year on the full moon in June, and consists of a 7-km walk across the island, ending at the effigy of Ixchel, where they leave offerings and sing and dance to the goddess.
Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher. She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán in 2021 and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.
A recent survey of industrial park owners found that overall warehouse space in such parks is nearing 100% occupancy, as more and more foreign companies relocate to Mexico. (Nigel Tadyanehondo/Unsplash)
A survey conducted by BBVA Research and the Mexican Association of Private Industrial Parks (AMPIP) has forecast that by 2025, 453 new foreign companies will relocate to Mexico as nearshoring in Mexico continues to prove an attractive option for international manufacturers.
But to seize the opportunity, the report suggests, Mexico must improve its energy policy, ensure water supply and reduce bureaucracy.
From 2018-2022, 830 foreign companies relocated here, says the report, which found that at least 453 more foreign businesses are planning to relocate by 2025. (NAI Mexico)
The report anticipates and quantifies the effects of nearshoring in the country, as well as outlining Mexico’s industrial investment future. If the study’s predictions come true, that would be a 9.1% increase over the previous cycle studied by the report — 2018–2022.
During that earlier period, 830 new foreign companies relocated to Mexico, says the report, or an average of 17 companies per month. This was in part due to tensions between the United States and China. Also during that period, 21% of companies surveyed by BBVA and AMPIP said they expanded their premises in Mexico within an industrial park.
Only 1.4% of respondents said they reduced their space.
As of March, AMPIP members operated a total 430 industrial parks in 21 Mexican states, hosting more than 3,800 companies. Of these companies, some 80% were foreign firms. AMPIP parks also reported an occupancy rate of 97.9% — an increase of 1.8% over 2019 — and a 30% average growth in inventories.
The northern and Bajío-west markets reported the most dynamic growth: by the end of 2022, inventory in the two markets had grown at an average rate of 35%, while the Mexico City metropolitan area reported a 17% growth during the same period.
Brembo was among the first international companies to nearshore in Mexico. (Gobierno de Nuevo León/Cuartoscuro)
The only major challenges facing foreign companies looking to relocate here are infrastructure constraints — such as the supply of clean electricity at competitive prices, drainage system capacity, water supply, public safety and efficiency in legal proceedings.
When asked about specific problems hindering nearshoring, 91% of those surveyed reported energy-supply issues. Other concerns cited by survey respondents include water scarcity (63%) and bureaucracy (74%).
The report concludes that Mexico must focus on developing renewable energies — not only for more efficiency and cost-effectiveness but also to improve Mexico’s emissions record. In the medium term, this could increasingly become a nonnegotiable requirement for companies in considering relocation.
The report concludes that addressing these issues “would favor Mexico both in terms of competitiveness and in compliance with international agreements related to climate change.”
In the same way,” it also said, “a regulatory improvement in terms of procedures and permits could be an initial step to reduce the number of drawbacks [to nearshoring].”
Despite high temperatures in the north of the country, much of Mexico is facing heavy rain, say authorities. (Victoria Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)
Heavy-to-intense rains are expected across Mexico this Tuesday, according to the National Meteorological Service (SMN), while temperatures remain very high in the north.
The conditions are caused by Tropical Wave 11, a low-pressure zone currently sweeping the west of Mexico and which has a high probability of cyclonic development, will bring heavy rains, thunderstorms and strong gusts of wind in Jalisco and Guerrero, the SMN said.
Heavy rains have been forecast across much of Mexico, including Morelos, which has already seen torrential downpours related to unpredictable weather conditions in the Pacific. (Margarito Pérez Retaño/Cuartoscuro)
“Higher intensity rainfall could be accompanied by lightning, strong gusts of wind and hailstorms and cause landslides, increased levels of rivers and streams, overflows and flooding in low-lying areas,” the SNMwarned in a statement.
Heavy rains area also predicted in many parts of the country on Tuesday afternoon:
50 to 75 millimeters are predicted for Chihuahua, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Michoacán, Oaxaca y Chiapas
Torrential cloudbursts bringing 25 to 50 millimeters of rain are predicted for Sonora, Durango, Zacatecas, Colima, Guanajuato, México state, Mexico City, Morelos, Tlaxcala, Puebla, Veracruz y Campeche
The rest of the country will see lighter showers, the SMN said.
Temperatures in the valley of Mexico are expected to remain cool, even in the face of a heatwave in the north of the country. (Victor Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)
During Tuesday afternoon, a new Tropical Wave 12 is expected to enter over the Yucatán Peninsula and interact with existing low pressure zones to cause heavy rains in Oaxaca and Chiapas.
Despite the rain, high temperatures will prevail across much of the country, with temperatures as high as 40 to 45 degrees Celsius (104 F to 113 F) in Baja California, Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Tamaulipas and Yucatán.
Temperatures of 35 C–40 C (95 F–104 F) are forecast for the states of Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Veracruz, Tabasco, Campeche and Quintana Roo.
At the other extreme, temperatures as low as 0 to 5 degrees Celsius (32 F to 41 F) are predicted for some mountain areas of Baja California, Hidalgo, Puebla and Tlaxcala.
The Valley of Mexico will likely remain temperate, with some rains on Tuesday afternoon.
The victims were aboard a sightseeing helicopter in Nepal that takes people to Nepal's impressive mountain peaks, including Everest. (Manang Air)
Five Mexican tourists died on Tuesday in a helicopter crash near Mount Everest, in Nepal.
The crash occurred in the Lamajura area as the helicopter was returning to Kathmandu after a sightseeing trip to the world’s highest mountain. There were no survivors.
One of the victims, Abril Sifuentes González, posted a photo of herself in front of the Taj Mahal days before the accident. (Instagram)
The five passengers killed in the crash — all of them Mexican nationals — were identified as Fernando Sifuentes, Abril Sifuentes González, Luz González Olacio, María José Sifuentes and Ismael Rincón. The Nepalese pilot, identified in a Manang Air press release as Chet B. Gurug, also died.
Mexico’s Ambassdor to India Federico Salas told the news outlet Infobae that the victims were family members originally from Nuevo León.
Nepal’s Civil Aviation Authority (CAAN) reported that the helicopter went missing at 10:13 a.m. local time,eight minutes after takeoff, but did not specify what caused the crash. Lhakpa Sherpa, a resident of the area who joined the search and rescue operation, told local media that the helicopter had hit a tree and then crashed to the ground.
A local airport official said that the helicopter’s flight path had been changed due to bad weather, which also delayed the rescue mission.
According to Mexico Ambassador to India Federico Salas, the five victims besides the pilot, who also died, were from a Nuevo León family. (Federico Salas/Twitter)
“Due to adverse weather conditions, helicopters could not land at the crash site [and] have now landed at Bhakanje … which is the nearest appropriate place to the crash site,” CAAN saidin a statement.
A few hours later, CAAN confirmed that all six bodies had been airlifted to Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital in Kathmandu for an autopsy before they would be handed over to next of kin.
The Mexican Embassy in Indiasaid on Twitter that its officials were “in continual communication with the authorities of Nepal regarding the tragic helicopter accident.”
Tourist flights to Everest are uncommon after the mountaineering season ends in May, as the monsoon season brings heavy rains, poor visibility and unpredictable weather conditions.
All six victims were taken to the Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital in Katmandu for autopsies. (Tribhuvan University)
Nepal’s challenging terrain, coupled with a lack of pilot training and with maintenance issues, have given the country a reputation for poor aviation safety.
This crash is the latest in a series of helicopter and airplane accidents in the country over recent years.
Hotel Real de Minas in San Miguel de Allende is one of the largest and oldest in the region. (Courtesy)
When it comes to finding high-quality accommodation in this enchanting UNESCO World Heritage site, the region’s largest and longest-standing hotel – Hotel Real de Minas – provides a wide range of features.
Situated just a short walk from the bustling main square and San Miguel de Allende’s main attractions, shops and restaurants, it’s an ideal base for exploring all the city has to offer. The hotel reflects the rich cultural heritage of the city with its colorful facades, intricate tile work, delightful courtyards and gardens and even an old bullring; without a doubt, the most original event space in town!
Hotel Real de Minas is not only a 214-room hotel, it is a favorite event space in San Miguel de Allende. (Courtesy)
We talked to one of the fourth-generation owners from the illustrious hoteliers, Grupo México Real, about the contemporary upgrades that have enhanced this classic Mexican hospitality experience.
“Our mission is to provide as many top-notch amenities and services to our varied clientele; the family, the business traveler, the adventurous tourist and the younger travelers that are flocking to our beautiful city,” says Isabella Castro. “We have 214 fully equipped and spacious rooms – including air conditioning, TV and work space – from the standard to the superior suite. And we’re pet friendly!”
Castro highlights the grand lobby, salon and bar as an airy and relaxed area to hang out and enjoy drinks and eats.
“We’re honored to host music, traditional dance and entertainment on special evenings,” she continues. “Guests can savor our traditional Mexican cuisine as well as international dishes, and the breakfast and Sunday brunch bar, offering a variety of dishes and fresh local fruit juices, is a popular scene!”
The serene pool at the Hotel Real de Minas. (Courtesy)
You’ll know you’re in Mexico, and not just your average small city hotel, because the authentic cultural flavor is in the details: the vibrant murals, artwork and the exceptional warmth and attentiveness of the staff.
“The staff here go the extra mile, whether it’s helping with transport, tours, reservations or local know-how. We want to provide the full Mexican experience!” Isabella says.
The hotel has hosted the renowned international tango festival, and even the occasional ballet performance.
“We celebrate our city’s rich artistic heritage, and take pride in sharing our country’s unique cultural gems. That extends to our family’s museum-quality art pieces on display, and the architectural and design features.”
The old bullring is a unique event space. (Courtesy)
The hotel is also well-equipped to host both intimate and large scale events. With eleven spacious and versatile rooms, your family gathering or business meeting, wedding reception or corporate conference can be gladly accommodated, and their professional event planning team ensures a seamless production from start to finish.
“Forty-five years ago, my grandfather foresaw the future popularity of San Miguel and set about creating a magnificent space that could expand and evolve to suit the changing times. Whether you want to host a garden party, entertain clients, plan a romantic getaway or family holiday, he wanted to appeal to Mexican nationals and the influx of curious international visitors. And he wanted to celebrate the best of Mexico. We’re proud to be one of the founding hotels of San Miguel, one that has modernized with the times.”
Additional perks, perfect for kids and adults alike, include a spectacular pool, set in the central garden area, a gym, spa and billiards, as well as the welcome convenience of an on-site pharmacy and shop.
Zeferino restaurant is popular with locals as well as visitors. (Courtesy)
You won’t want to miss the stylish and spacious restaurant, Zeferino, which offers classic Mexican fare, and is popular with visitors and locals. The neighborhood also offers a plethora of new bakeries, cafes, bars and stores. Right opposite the hotel, you can bask in the peaceful flower-filled beauty of Parque Guadiana and check out the organic market, Mercado Sano, which hosts the popular outdoor food and crafts market every Saturday.
Your stay wouldn’t be complete without enjoying cocktails on the roof-top terrace, which boasts views of the city’s iconic landmarks, including La Parroquia church, and the dramatic mountains behind which the sun sets magnificently every evening.
Delicious Mexican fare served at Zeferino restaurant. (Courtesy)
San Miguel de Allende is a mecca for international visitors, and many of those are fast turning into residents! Voted “best small city in the world” three times by Condé Nast Traveler, it retains a certain magic that enticed explorers decades ago.
Hotel Real de Minas is an integral part of the city’s notable history that still draws in the “cool crowd”. As popular as it’s been with Mexicans for decades, it has now become a mainstay of the influx of new international travelers.
Without a doubt, this hotel should be top of your list for charm, comfort, character and the authentic San Miguel experience.
Henrietta Weekes is a writer, editor, actor and narrator. She divides her time between San Miguel de Allende, New York and Oxford, UK.
Mexico's tourism industry is thriving after a brief slowdown in April. (Wikimedia Commons)
The number of foreign tourist arrivals in Mexico grew 9.3% in May, to 3.3 million, said the Institute of National Statistics and Geography (INEGI).
Including domestic tourists, a total of 5.9 million people visited Mexican tourist attractions in May, a figure 14.2% higher than last year. The increase in tourist numbers comes after a slowdown in April, which saw a 1.9% decrease compared to April 2022.
276,000 more tourists visited Mexico in May 2023, although overall spending is lower than in 2022. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)
Despite this slowdown, INEGI says that 276,000 more international tourists visited Mexico this May than during the same month in 2022. The months registering the most visitors are December and June.
The decline in tourist numbers during April was the first month since April 2021 that numbers fell, as the Mexican tourist industry — a critical component of the economy — continues to rebound after extensive disruptions related to the COVID-19 pandemic.
While absolute numbers of tourists are higher, per capita spending has dropped compared to 2022 — a total of 7.4% lower — for an average spend of US $652 per tourist. Lower spending is likely a reaction to the stamina of the superpeso, which briefly strengthened to below 17 pesos to the U.S. dollar last week. The figure is some US $15 million less than what tourists spent in the same period last year.
Spending by tourists in April was also down 5.2% compared to 2022.
However, the increased number of visitors meant that total revenue still rose by 1.2%. Visitors who arrived via air had a higher average spend of US $1,096, according to INEGI figures.
Mitla has been partially restored, allowing visitors to get a scale of the once-grand city. (Photos by Joseph Sorrentino)
There has perhaps never been a more interesting time to visit the Mitla archaeological site southeast of the city of Oaxaca, with news this month that researchers have discovered what is likely a pre-Hispanic burial temple for the ancient city’s rulers.
Mitla was once an important Zapotec and Mixtec city, an example of two Mesoamerican peoples coexisting peacefully.
Cutting-edge technology revealed the presence of a large system of rooms beneath the “Columns of Life” in the main temple. (Arxproject)
The Spanish-built San Pablo Church sits atop the ruins of Mitla, located 40 km (25 miles) southeast of the city of Oaxaca, in an area that’s been occupied for at least 2,000 years. Beginning as a Zapotec village, it eventually became an important political and religious center after the fall of the Mesoamerican city of Monte Albán around A.D. 750.
While Mixtecas occupied the city around A.D. 1,000, the Zapotecans continued to inhabit the city after the Mixtecas arrival. Some of the decorations on the buildings show the influence of both of these cultures, as well as that of the mysterious Teotihuacán. At its peak, between A.D. 750 and 1521, the city had approximately 10,500 inhabitants.
Eventually, however, Mitla fell to the Spanish in 1521.
The name Mitla is a Spanish transliteration of Mictlán, a Nahuatl word that means “place of the dead.” Zapotecans called it Lyobaa, which has been translated as “place of rest.” It’s believed that Milta was a sacred city and one that was considered by its inhabitants to have an entrance to the underworld, where a number of important priests and rulers of Mitla are entombed.
Many of the ornamentation at Mitla is intricately carved and supported without any adhesive.
Recently, an archeological survey by a team of international scientists using imaging technology has revealed what the researchers believe is that supposed entrance to the underworld: a hidden pre-Hispanic temple that may have ended up beneath the main site in the colonial era or later due to volcanic activity.
According to Spanish accounts, missionaries sealed all entrances to the temple upon learning about it. Dominican priest Francisco de Burgoa’s 1674 account claimed that the Spanish clergymen believed it was a “back door to hell.”
Of course, this “place of the dead” is currently underground and has yet to be excavated, so there is nothing to see at the moment. But there is plenty to explore at Mitla.
Mitla’s visible ruins consist of five compounds, referred to by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) as groups.
The Church Group, also called the Northern Group, and the Columns Group are the most extensively excavated. The Arroyo Group, the Adobes Group (also called Calvario) and the Southern Group have only been partially excavated. Each group consists of rectangular patios surrounded by rooms.
The main entrance to the ruins leads to the Church Group, where, as its name suggests, the Spanish built San Pablo Church in the 16th century, using materials from destroyed indigenous structures.
Exterior of the main building in the Columns Group. Inside this one are six columns.
The Spanish razed many pre-Hispanic sites — especially those considered to have political or religious significance — and built over them to demonstrate Spain’s power. Zapotecan and Mixtecan royalty and religious leaders lived in the structures of the Church Group before they were displaced by the Spanish.
According to local legend, it is the altar of this church that obscured the mouth of a tunnel to the supposed “backdoor to hell.”
A short walk away is the Columns Group, so called because of the six columns still standing in one room; these had served at one time to support a roof. The buildings located here were most likely used for civic and religious activities. Tombs 1 and 2, which once held the remains of royalty, are also located here.
Every structure in Mitla is covered with intricate geometric patterns made from thousands of small stones. Amazingly, no mortar or any kind of glue was used to keep them in place, and each design is unique. The first European explorers who chanced upon Mitla’s ruins called them “friezes grecas” because of their similarity to Greek designs. Though historically impossible, this comparison is not baseless; the patterns are meandering and continuous. Some have suggested they resemble ancient textile designs that have been used as storytelling tools.
The Church Group and Columns Group are adjacent, but the other three sites are a short distance away. Unfortunately, signs showing how to get to them are nonexistent, but I was able to get there by asking a couple of people.
When I finally did get to the Arroyo and Adobe groups, the entrance gates were locked. I asked a guard at Group of the North why those sites weren’t open and was told it was the responsibility of the local government, not INAH, to open them. He had no idea why they were closed. Given his answer, I decided not to try to make the trek to reach the Southern Group.
The nearby town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla is a pueblo magico, filled with lovely colonial-era buildings, cafés and restaurants. Adjacent to the ruins are large outdoor artisans’ markets that are definitely worth visiting. The site’s open daily and although there are websites claiming it opens at 8 a.m. or 9 a.m.; it opened at 10 a.m. on the day of my visit.
