Monday, August 25, 2025

Wasting away again in Ajijic

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The Margaritaville website says the community will have a total of 192 residences plus "resort-style amenities and an island-inspired feel." (margaritaville.com)

“It’s in the tropics somewhere between the Port of Indecision and Southwest of Disorder, but no parallels of latitude or longitude mark the spot exactly. You don’t have to be a navigator to get there. Palm trees provide the camouflage…”

Singer Jimmy Buffett

Scores of Jimmy Buffett fans, I’m told, embrace life at “a new latitude,” the promise of their spiritual guru, a 76 year-old billionaire who continues to tour, write books, and inspire millions of baby boomers longing for life’s perfect sunset. Buffett’s multiple businesses include a real estate collection of lifestyle communities for 55 and over, open in Florida, South Carolina, Texas, and coming soon to Mexico.

In 2024,, Latitude Margaritaville International is set to open on the northwest shore of Lake Chapala. This new Buffett venture will soon offer “Parrot Heads” (Buffet’s followers) a new roost in Jalisco state, adjacent to the village of Ajijic, whose fame with foreigners dates to the 1940s. 

A new twist on the overseas living experience is now upon us. What could possibly go wrong? Are Lake Chapala and the rest of Mexico ready to welcome Margaritaville to the homeland of margaritas?

Lake Chapala’s one attempt at a United States-style senior care model (formerly marketed as “La Pueblita”) went into receivership in 2022, the victim of the pandemic and a marketing pitch that never caught on. Latitude Margaritaville International and its partner Levy Holding will take over the ill-fated, 200-unit facility of unfinished condos and casitas.

A rendering of Latitude Margaritaville International, set to open in Lake Chapala, Jalisco by early 2024. (margaritaville.com)

“With the success and demand for Margaritaville-branded residential communities in the U.S., we’re always looking for licensing opportunities and destinations that are compelling and dynamic. Lake Chapala was exactly that,” according to Jim Wiseman, president of development at Margaritaville, the parent company of the Latitude Margaritaville real estate collection. “As a popular destination for expats, and with its diverse offerings and incredible climate, the area brings together elements of both active and laid-back lifestyles, and a dedication to community – all a major part of the way of life at Latitude Margaritaville International.”

The project will open for sales this summer, with move-ins happening in the spring of 2024, according to the Margaritaville website. Pastel-hued renderings also give us some clues about how the company will recruit “Parrot Heads” to Lake Chapala. An updated artist’s rendition of the existing pool area features giant macaws, a “Salty Rim Bar & Grill” logo, and Jimmy Buffett-inspired slogans and affirmations scrawled on walls and awnings. 

That’s all fine. Who wants another abandoned real estate eyesore?

But bringing the Margaritaville brand to Lake Chapala – the birthplace of overseas living in Mexico (a heritage we lakesiders proudly embrace) – has some of us wondering how this will all go down. Buffet’s Margaritaville is the first corporate brand to parachute into the lakeside senior living landscape, and it will certainly impact the surrounding area. Will it further accelerate our community’s transformation from a lakeside village to something else? It’s very likely.

Ajijic, Jalisco
View of Lake Chapala and Ajijic at sunset. (Somniphobiac/Creative Commons)

It wouldn’t be fair to lay blame at Margaritaville’s door for Ajijic’s growing challenges: rickety roads, crumbling sidewalks, traffic snarls, water shortages, the rising cost of living, and lost village identity. 

That blame could be placed on local authorities for abandoning any attempt at urban planning or growth impact abatement. Also responsible are foreign-born “invaders” who come here with U.S. lifestyles, affluence, and attitudes that foster what are essentially two community circles, the Mexicans and the outsiders; sometimes polarized, sometimes united.

Will the Margaritaville brand bring new residents with global views and attitudes congruent with making Mexico a better place to live? Will Margaritaville’s “55 and better” communities start popping up across Mexico? 

Or, will it be just another gated community, this time bringing a Floridian vibe to the more muted, rural Lake Chapala area?

I’m hoping the model finds its footing, creates some good-paying jobs, raises living standards for our Mexican neighbors, and helps Mexico attract the inevitably growing share of Americans who can’t afford to retire up north.

I don’t personally know any “Parrot Heads”. They could all be civic-minded, progressive, and giving. They could help make the places they live in more prosperous. Or, will Mexico’s quest to attract foreign capital create another island of exclusivity that’s disassociated from the community’s needs – especially in a town like Ajijic, struggling to define its future?

If nothing else, it’s a homecoming of sorts for the drink that inspires followers to embrace “life on the other side.” I’m keeping an eye out for my “lost shaker of salt.” And hoping for the best. 

Writer Greg Custer (www.mexicoforliving.com) has worked in Mexico tourism for over 40 years. He’s lived lakeside in Ajijic since 2015 and helps Americans explore Mexico for living opportunities.

Here’s why you should already be on the bus to Taxco

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Taxco, Guerrero
Taxco is one of Mexico's most charming towns, and boasts what might be considered Mexico's most beautiful church. (Gob. de Mexico)

I recently succumbed to a strong urge to shake things up for a night. I googled “day trips from Mexico City” and was, as expected, bombarded with an abundance of blogs written by luxury travelers or backpackers — all of  which suggested a quick jaunt to Taxco. 

So I booked myself a trip to this Guerrero city by bus, leaving early on a Wednesday morning, to return late on a Thursday afternoon. I figured it would be a fun little adventure to get my creative juices flowing and teach me a thing or two about Mexican culture.

Taxco's iconic white Volkswagen taxi's are some of the few vehicles able to cope with the steep hills of the city.
The winding, colonial streets of Taxco are more reminiscent of Europe than Guerrero. (Chris Havler-Barrett)

After about three hours of careening in and out of winding mountain roads, we drove underneath a set of bright white arches. From here, a sweeping scene of hundreds of thousands of rectangular, white-washed facades with burnt orange, terracotta roofs unveiled before me. 

The buildings were perched on the slopes of the mountains, with a serpentine road cutting through the center. Peppered throughout the structures were palm trees, magenta bougainvillea, and rooftop terraces with blue umbrellas. I had to shake my head a few times… No, brain, I am not in Italy, though it would appear to be so. 

Because the town’s incline is reminiscent of San Francisco, not just any vehicle will survive the uphill battle. Taxis here are all old white Volkswagen Beetles that can, according to my taxi driver, withstand the steep climb in any kind of weather.  

This brings me to the first of many things you should definitely do in Taxco.

Taxis in the city of Taxco
Taxco’s iconic white Volkswagen taxis are some of the few vehicles able to cope with the steep hills of the city. (freetworoam)

Suggestion #1: Take a ride in a punch-buggy taxi

The old town is centered around its zócalo, home to arguably the most beautiful church in all of Mexico — a dusty rose-colored stone with incredible carvings and two multicolored mosaic-tiled domes. 

Suggestion #2: Climb the 140 stairs leading you to the top of the tower in the Church of Santa Prisca.

For the views you’ll get, 50 pesos is a fantastic investment.
The streets that spider off of the zócalo also lead you to a variety of jaw-dropping views. Every time you turn a corner, you’re hit with another vista that seems better than the last. 

And if you have the quads for it, continue up to…

You are never more than a short climb away from an incredible view. (Anagoria/Wikimedia)

Suggestion #3: Capilla de Ojeda.

I happened to bump into this small church on an early morning walk and caught an unobstructed glimpse of the entire city before me, with a very slight mist above the mountains. It was a stunner, and my nalgas have been delightfully sore ever since.

Suggestion #4: Have breakfast at Casa Spratling.

At this point, I was hungry and wanted to try out a recommended establishment: Casa Spratling, named after William Spratling, who, shortly after the Mexican Revolution, brought Taxco silver back to the international stage.  

I arrived too late for meal service but not too late to meet the owner, a Mexican woman of Italian heritage who welcomed me with a local mezcalito. She showed me her gallery, which included Spratling-style jewelry and antiques. It was a charming restaurant that offers a unique array of Italian-Mexican fusion dishes that I’ll have to try next time.

Suggestion #5: Don’t get a margarita, but do get a drink upstairs at Bar Berta.

Bar Berta
Bar Berta is a whimsically decorated, historic bar with amazing views from its balcony seating. (Manuel Cuevas)

I later wandered back toward the zócalo to eat, and Bar Berta caught my eye. Established in 1930, its balcony seating is at eye level with the church. Prime real estate. The view, the people-watching, the sounds — it was all so perfect. The margarita was not so much, but I would not hesitate to return again and again for that view.

By the time I got to Bar Berta, I was borderline starving, and for that reason perhaps made a shortsighted restaurant decision. There are plenty of highly rated options in town, including:

I chose none of them. While my main dish at the restaurant I did choose left a bit to be desired, the view was great. My wine was crappy, but my guacamole was excellent, and with that vista, I was happy as a clam.

Hotel Los Arcos, Taxco, Guerrero
Ideally located Hotel Los Arcos will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to Mexico’s colonial era. (Hotel Los Arcos)

Suggestion #6: Consider a stay at Hotel Los Arcos

After I’d had my visual fill, I wandered downhill to my room at Hotel Los Arcos, a colonial house constructed in 1572 with a charming central courtyard and simple rooms. 

The location is ideal, right next door to the Humboldt Museum and within walking distance of everything I wanted to see. There’s a lovely roof deck that guests don’t seem to know or care about but where I enjoyed the sparkling skyline before bed.

Suggestion #7: Get coffee at Nueve 25.

Taxco is a sleepy place in the morning, and not many coffee shops were open when I started exploring around 7 a.m. To my delight, I did discover Nueve 25, a ventanilla-style cafe where you order your beverage from a window. My cappuccino was delicious. 

Taxco silver
Taxco’s silver is world-renowned. (Government of Mexico)

Suggestion #8: Get yourself lost in the Taxco Tianguis

Under no circumstances should you skip this market, which has enough going on for a whole article in itself. I don’t know how to describe it, other than comparing it to an octopus. There is allegedly a central hub of some kind, although in practice it’s difficult to find. 

But from the middle of the market extends an uncountable number of streets, tunnels, and stairs absolutely full of food vendors. Aside from fresh juices, flowers and pig heads, one can also purchase ceramics, herb capsules and cell phone covers. 

Suggestion #9: Visit the Mines inside Posada de la Misión.

After I’d had my juice and was well-fueled, I moved on to my next stop: located inside the impressive Posada de La Misión hotel are pre-Hispanic mines, discovered in 2013 underneath the hotel bar. Admission buys you a 45-minute underground tour, a drink and insight into Taxco’s fascinating history.

La Casa de las Lagrimas in Taxco, Guerrero, Mexico
If these walls at La Casa de las Lagrimas could talk, they’d have such a story to tell. Luckily, it has tour guides who know its telenovela-like history. (La Casa de las Lagrimas/Facebook)

Suggestion #10: La Casa de las Lágrimas.

The house is preserved beautifully, as are the antiques that feel almost stuffed inside. There are giant windows, traditional talavera tiles and underground tunnels that once served as escape routes for its previous wealthy owners.

La Casa de las Lágrimas, or Casa Figueroa, manages to weave money, politics, love, scandal and murder into a 20-minute tour. 

It was a pleasant and unexpected little stumble that rounded out two perfect days spent in an absolutely spellbinding town.

Bethany Platanella is a travel and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. With her company, Active Escapes International, she plans and leads private and small-group active retreats. She loves Mexico’s local markets, Mexican slang, practicing yoga and fresh tortillas.  Sign up for her (almost) weekly love letters or follow her Instagram account, @a.e.i.wellness.

16 soldiers arrested in Nuevo Laredo extrajudicial killings case

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Mexican army soldiers on patrol in Guerrero
Soldiers on patrol in Guerrero in May. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)

Sixteen soldiers have been arrested and ordered to stand trial on charges related to the alleged murder of five men in Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas, last month.

Security camera footage disseminated by the media last week provided compelling evidence that soldiers executed presumed criminals they had already disarmed — and attempted to cover up their crime.

Footage of military killing civilians in Nuevo Laredo
Video footage that circulated online appears to show soldiers shooting the five men after they had already disarmed them. (Twitter)

President López Obrador said last Wednesday that it appeared there had been an “execution” on May 18 and pledged that the culprits would be punished.

The Ministry of National Defense (Sedena) said in a statement Saturday that the Military Justice Prosecutor’s Office last Thursday arrested 16 soldiers involved in the incident.

It said that a military court granted warrants for the arrest of the soldiers on charges they committed “crimes contrary to military discipline.”

A military judge ruled last Friday that the soldiers must face trial and remain in preventive detention, Sedena said. They are being held in a Mexico City military prison.

Sedena said that the arrest of the soldiers and the judge’s ruling that they must stand trial are “independent” of an investigation being carried out by the Federal Attorney General’s Office. Cases of alleged military abuses against civilians are heard in civilian courts, meaning that the soldiers could face a separate trial on murder charges in a civil proceedings.

The apparent massacre in Nuevo Laredo on May 18 occurred less than three months after soldiers killed five other apparently unarmed men in the northern border city. Federal prosecutors in April formally accused four of those soldiers of murder.

Mexico News Daily 

Ruling party Morena to announce presidential candidate on Sept. 6

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Aspiring Morena candidates at council meeting
The six aspiring candidates at the Sunday meeting of the Morena National Council, with Morena party president Mario Delgado. (Mario Delgado/Twitter)

The ruling Morena party on Sunday determined many of the key rules for the process to select its candidate for the 2024 presidential election, and said that the winner — who will head up the defense of President López Obrador’s so-called “fourth transformation” of Mexico — will be announced Sept. 6.

At a meeting of the Morena National Council (CNM) in Mexico City, officials approved an agreement that stipulates that a maximum of six aspirants will be permitted to participate in the selection process.

Morena candidates
From left to right, the six aspiring candidates: Manuel Velasco, Marcelo Ebrard, Adán Augusto López, Claudia Sheinbaum, Ricardo Monreal and Gerardo Fernández Noroña. (Morena/Twitter)

National polls will be conducted between Aug. 28 and Sept. 3 to choose a new standard bearer for Morena, which was founded by López Obrador last decade and is now Mexico’s dominant political party.

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum, Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard, Interior Minister Adán Augusto López Hernández and Senator Ricardo Monreal are the main “pre-candidates” seeking Morena’s nomination.

Gerardo Fernández Noroña, a Labor Party (PT) deputy, and Senator Manuel Velasco of the Ecological Green Party (PVEM) are also interested in competing for the candidacy but are  awaiting the formal endorsement of their parties, which are Morena allies.

According to the rules approved on Sunday, each of the aspirants are required to formally register their intended participation in the Morena selection process this week and must resign their current positions the same day, if they haven’t already done so.

Marcelo Ebrard stepped down as Foreign Affairs Minister today to focus on his campaign. He’s seen here participating in a Chiapas event last week with President López Obrador’s brother Pío López Obrador. (Marcelo Ebrard/Twitter)

Ebrard, one of the leading contenders to win the Morena nomination, announced last week that he would step down as foreign minister today.

A total of five surveys will be carried out to determine Morena’s candidate for the presidential election, which will be held June 2, 2024.

Morena will conduct one of the surveys, while private polling companies — to be selected randomly from a pool of firms nominated by the aspirants — will carry out four “mirror polls.”

The surveys will likely include a range of questions to assess perceptions on things such as the pre-candidates’ honesty and knowledge of the country, according to the newspaper El País, which spoke with Morena party Secretary General Citlalli Hernández.

4 hopefuls for Mexico's Morena Party nomination presidential candidate in 2024 with President Lopez Obrador
President López Obrador, center, with the four main contenders for the party’s presidential candidate in 2024, seen from left to right: Foreign Minister Marcelo Ebrard, Interior Minister Adán Augusto López, Senate Majority Leader Ricardo Monreal and Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum. (Presidencia)

The respondents will also be directly asked who their preferred candidate is, according to Hernández, but responses to all questions will be weighted equally.

Exactly who will be polled and the number of respondents are yet to be determined, but Morena has previously indicated that selection of a candidate will be a task for its members.

The official campaign period for the Morena hopefuls will begin next Monday June 19 and run through Aug. 27. López Obrador, members of his cabinet, Morena governors and all other officials from that party as well as the PT and the PVEM are barred from speaking out in favor of any of the pre-candidates under the rules approved at Sunday’s meeting.

Speaking after the meeting, CNM president and Sonora Governor Alfonso Durazo said that the aspirants would have to formally commit to “the fundamental ethical principles of our movement,” including by making an undertaking “to not lie, steal or betray the people.”

They will also have to pledge to put Mexico’s poorest and most vulnerable people first and always adhere to the law, Durazo said.

Morena national president Mario Delgado told the same press conference that the pre-candidates have been directed to carry out “austere” campaigns with no squandering of money on self-promotion.

Mario Delgado, leader of Morena
Mario Delgado, Morena national president, at the council meeting on Sunday. (Mario Delgado/Twitter)

“We want them to go with [and meet] the people [of Mexico],” he said, adding that no debates between the aspirants — for which Ebrard strongly advocated — will be held.

“It has to be a fraternal contest, and there can’t be insults between colleagues; there has to be complete respect,” said Delgado, who left the lower house of Congress in late 2020 to assume the national leadership of Morena.

The aspirants who finish second and third in the selection process will be guaranteed cabinet roles — provided Morena wins the presidency — or leadership positions in Congress, while the other contenders will be allocated proportional representation seats in the federal legislature, according to Durazo.

Delgado said that the aspirants have been forbidden from “speaking ill of or discrediting” the selection process backed by the CNM, and that they must commit to accepting the results of the polls. The pre-candidates are also banned from speaking with “reactionary” and “conservative” media outlets opposed to the López Obrador administration.

Delgado said that the “route” to determine who will “coordinate the defense of the fourth transformation” has now been established, although some important details — such as the questions to be included in the polls and the number of respondents — haven’t been finalized.

“It’s an unprecedented process because it’s inclusive, democratic, transparent … and it ends forever the dedazo, or imposition [of successors by sitting presidents],” Delgado said. “That’s why today is a historic day for our movement.”

At Sunday’s CNM meeting, the six aspirants pledged to maintain unity as they compete with each other to secure the Morena nomination. Polls indicate that whoever Morena puts forward is likely to win the presidency on June 2, 2024.

Sheinbaum, the pre-candidate considered most likely to win Morena’s nomination, said on Twitter Sunday that a “historic agreement of unity” was reached at the CNM meeting.

“That gives me a lot of happiness and the conviction to move forward,” said the mayor, who would become Mexico’s first female president if she wins next year’s election.

Sheinbaum on Monday morning on her way to a meeting with the president. (Claudia Sheinbaum/Twitter)

“The desire of the people of Mexico to continue the transformation that President López Obrador began, and [what would be] the great feat of having, for the first time, a woman as the national coordinator of the transformation, gives us encouragement,” she wrote.

Ebrard, who is seen as Sheinabum’s main rival, said that a “real competition” between the aspirants has now begun.

“A direct debate hasn’t been accepted yet, [but] we’re going to continue insisting on one. But everyone has to present their proposals — if you don’t, how will you win support?” he added.

Va por México coalition
The PAN-PRI-PRD party leaders at their June 5 press conference. (Marko Cortés/Twitter)

There is currently little clarity about who will face off against the Morena candidate.

The parties of the opposition Va por México alliance — the National Action Party, the Institutional Revolutionary Party and the Democratic Revolution Party — announced in January that they would field a common candidate at the election, and at a joint press conference on June 5, the party leaders said they would announce their selection method by June 26.

Another opposition party, Citizens Movement (MC), has indicated it will also field a presidential candidate, but a recent Reforma newspaper poll found that MC — which is in power in Nuevo León and Jalisco — has national support of just 5%.

With reports from El País, El Financiero, and Reforma 

Is it Claudia? The prospect of Mexico electing a female president

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Illustration of Claudia Sheinbaum by Angy Marquez
(Illustration: Angy Márquez)

When I was in first grade, we had to go around the class saying what we wanted to be when we grew up. When I said I wanted to be the president, a chorus arose among my classmates: a girl can’t be president!

Now, there are plenty of reasons why I personally cannot be president; is it my tendency to cry about everything? My disinterest in large swaths of policy? My IQ? Come on, what? 

But being a girl is not one of them.

My own life has seen some near misses when it comes to seeing a woman in the highest office. We all remember, of course, Hilary Clinton’s 2016 presidential campaign and her shocking loss that pretty much no one — least of all, Donald Trump — was expecting. 

I still suspect that election night must have been the moment some trickster grabbed the steering wheel and plunged us all off into the bizarre dimension we’ve been stuck in ever since. A clue to my theory: my dog suddenly couldn’t walk that day because of a tumor that had just started pressing on her brain, which is a bad omen if I ever saw one.

Then, during the primaries leading up to the 2020 elections, I was sure that Elizabeth Warren would win the Democratic nomination, and I let myself get excited again. 

But the thing about presidential candidates is that frontrunners don’t just gracefully step aside to give someone else a chance; if they’re there, it means they think they deserve to be president. People like that don’t give up when they’re so close.

Sure, there have been women executive leaders in other countries, but I want to see it in one of my countries. The possibilities are there, but getting close to it, at least in the U.S., has been tricky, like trying to fish a little piece of eggshell from the yolk. It only looks like it will be easy to grasp.

In the U.S., female candidates have received much more scrutiny and criticism than their male counterparts; the same people who had enthusiastically backed male candidates and held the party line were suddenly policy experts engaged in microscopic-level investigation of all the things Hilary Clinton had done since elementary school. 

The same characteristics voters liked in men were seen as unbecoming in women (a man’s assertiveness is a woman’s bitchiness), and many progressives made a big show of saying they were going to “hold their nose and vote for Clinton,” as if she were some cartoon villain. How’s that for enthusiasm?

For all that show of nose-holding, we wound up covered in vomit for the next four years. It’s true, I’m still bitter.

When Elizabeth Warren suddenly disappeared from the list of presidential candidates in 2020, I gave up on seeing a woman in the White House anytime soon. 

But now there’s the real possibility of a woman as this nation’s chief executive. A divorced Jewish woman, at that (both of her parents were the children of Eastern European immigrants to Mexico). 

Before going on, I feel the need to state the obvious, lest readers think I’m simply militant: no, I would not just vote for a candidate with no other criteria just because they’re a woman. If U.S. Rep. Marjorie Taylor Greene were running for president, I’d campaign hard against her. 

Still, the prospect of a woman president in Mexico excites me. And I think that Claudia Sheinbaum, currently the mayor of Mexico City, could make a formidable candidate — and even a good president. In fact, two women candidates may compete for the presidency in 2024 if aspiring opposition candidate Lilly Téllez is nominated.

Sheinbaum’s popularity has been growing, and she is now widely considered the top pick for the ruling Morena Party’s presidential nominee. And unless those tricksters show up and jerk the steering wheel again, all signs seem to point to the Morena candidate becoming our next president. 

She’s certainly as qualified for the job as anyone else is. The fact that current president López Obrador seems to adore her might be a plus or a minus, depending on how you view the president.

But despite her popularity with the current chief executive, she’s got plenty of accomplishments under her belt in her own right. A physicist with a doctoral degree in environmental engineering (hey, wasn’t Angela Merkel a chemist? Bodes well so far!), Sheinbaum was on the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change that won a Nobel peace prize in 2007 and has been working in government for over two decades now. 

As mayor of Mexico City, she was nominated by the City Mayors Foundation in 2021 for the World Mayor prize and has worked hard to improve and protect the environment, something I think should be a top priority for any world leader these days.

I have some reservations — mainly about how much control the current president will have over her from behind the scenes.

Hopefully, not much. Sheinbaum, while an enthusiastic proponent of the president’s agenda, has not been afraid in the past to contradict him, especially when it comes to women’s rights. I would hope that she also wouldn’t be afraid to contradict him on the environment, and there are lots of questions that I would like to see asked of her over the coming year.

On a lighter note: is there anyone that doesn’t love that no-nonsense let’s-get-to-work ponytail? Sheinbaum is 60 years old with two grown children (and recently became a grandmother), but hey, 60 is the new 40! Her spunky attitude says this lady is ready to rock and roll.

Sheinbaum is not perfect, it’s true. But in a world where “good enough” is often the enemy of “good,” I’d like to pre-request that everyone just freaking calm down a bit. 

Mexico, a country suffering from femicides and rampant sexism and discrimination, may very well soon have a woman president.

I’ve been burned before, both by elections in my own country and by the great contrast between López Obrador the candidate and López Obrador the president.

But hey, a girl can dream, right?

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of Mexico News Daily, its owner or its employees.

Medicine, media and Moctezuma: the week at the mañaneras

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AMLO at the morning press conference
President López Obrador's daily morning press conferences this week covered everything from Foreign Affairs Minister Ebrard's resignation to the alleged extrajudicial killings by soldiers in Nuevo Laredo to the "headdress of Moctezuma" in Vienna. (Gob MX)

With gubernatorial elections in México state and Coahuila now over, focus on the 2024 presidential contest has intensified.

The ruling Morena party, which President López Obrador founded, is gearing up to choose its new standard bearer via an internal survey process, prompting Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard to take the decision to step down this coming Monday to focus on winning the nomination.

Claudia Sheinbaum, President Lopez Obrador, Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard
AMLO between the two presidential frontrunners for the Morena party, Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum (left) and Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard (right). (Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro)

AMLO, who contested the 2006 and 2012 presidential elections before his emphatic 2018 triumph, reaffirmed his commitment to not “tip the balance” in favor of any of the so-called pre-candidates, emphasizing at his Wednesday press conference that times have changed and that he, as president, would not anoint a successor.

Colloquially known as mañaneras, his morning pressers this week were – as always – wide-ranging, with the elimination of daylight saving time, an apparent army massacre and efforts to repatriate a pre-Hispanic headdress among the topics discussed.

Monday

After a brief introduction from AMLO and the weekly update on gasoline and grocery prices from consumer protection agency chief Ricardo Sheffield, Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas offered a report on the response to the June 5, 2009 fire in a daycare center in Hermosillo that claimed the lives of 49 young children and injured more than 40 others.

“Today, on the anniversary of the terrible tragedy of the ABC daycare fire, we want to reaffirm our commitment to, and solidarity with, the relatives of all the victims and the survivors,” Encinas said.

He said that compensation has been paid to 142 “direct and indirect victims,” including families of deceased children, injured children and adults and children “exposed” to the tragedy.

Zoé Robledo, head of the Mexican Social Security Institute (IMSS), noted that two former IMSS officials who held positions related to overseeing daycare centers were arrested in November 2020 in connection with the fire.

He said that the officials have been ordered to stand trial and that the Federal Attorney General’s Office is currently working to complete its investigation.

Alejandro Encinas at morning press conference
Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas at the Monday press conference. (Gob MX)

Yucatán Governor Mauricio Vila also addressed the press conference, and during an update on infrastructure projects in the state noted that López Obrador had authorized the Ministry of National Defense to build a branch line of the Maya Train railroad “practically” to the port in the Gulf of Mexico town of Progreso.

“This will help us a lot because we’ll bring the train closer to the port, and we hope to build a classification yard that allows us to make the connection from the Trans-Isthmus train project to the Maya Train [railroad] and the port in Progreso,” he said.

During his Q & A session with reporters, López Obrador congratulated the people of México state and Coahuila who “exercised their right to freely elect” new governors on Sunday.

“There were no major problems, people participated and there were no post-electoral protests,” he said.

AMLO also congratulated the winners of the gubernatorial elections – Morena candidate Delfina Gómez in México state and PRI-PAN-PRD candidate Manolo Jiménez Salinas in Coahuila.

The president told reporters that he had been “reflecting” on the “political composition in the states” in the wake of the elections, and noted that Morena will control 22 states “with the triumph of the maestra [teacher] Delfina.”

“The Green Party has one [state], Citizens Movement has two, the PRI has one and the PAN has five. That’s the way it is,” he said.

AMLO stressed that the federal government will continue to treat all states equally, regardless of whether they have a government that “belongs to the movement that supported me” or not.

“All the welfare programs are universal. It’s not, ‘let’s see, what party are you from?'” López Obrador said after asserting that previous federal governments treated states differently depending on which party was in power at that level.

“We have good relationships with the governors. Here is an example of how we’re working in a coordinated way, regardless of party backgrounds,” he said, referring to the government’s relationship with Vila, a PAN governor who is vying to represent the opposition Va por México alliance at next year’s presidential election.

Acknowledging that the 2024 presidential election is just one year away, AMLO said that “the important thing” to do in the lead-up to that contest is “strengthen democracy – not just as a political system … but as a way of life.”

“[We need] democracy in the family, democracy at school, democracy in unions, … democracy in the broad sense,” he said.

Among other remarks, López Obrador said he was in favor of the installation of a monument to recognize the life and work of Dora María Pérez Vidal, a Tabasco-born singer known as La Chaparrita de Oro who passed away last Sunday.

“She represents the music of Tabasco, she’s a musical ambassador of Tabasco, as was Chico Che,” he said.

Tuesday

AMLO’s engagement with the press began approximately 30 minutes into his mañanera, but he immediately called on his education minister to respond to a question about the dismissal of teachers during the 2012-18 government led by former president Enrique Peña Nieto.

“During the previous six-year period of government there was a very powerful campaign against teachers, against their educational activity, denigrating the work they did, … making it appear like teachers weren’t really committed to their work,” Leticia Ramírez Amaya said.

She noted that the current government repealed the previous government’s education reform, which forced teachers to undergo controversial evaluations, and asserted that the vast majority of educators who lost their jobs during the Peña Nieto years have been reinstated.

“Almost 95% of the teachers who were affected by the poorly-named education reform have been reinstated,” she said, adding that the government intends to resolve every case in which a teacher challenged the grounds of his or her dismissal.

López Obrador was later asked about his meeting on Monday with Morena governors and the aspirants to the ruling party’s candidacy for the 2024 presidential election.

“We got together to congratulate the maestra Delfina, we were all very happy. And we also met to [talk about] maintaining unity. … We’re doing very well, we’re fine and in a good mood,” the president said.

Celebratory dinner by Morena Party figures for governor elect of Mexico state, Delfina Gomez
AMLO told reporters that he took the opportunity at a celebratory dinner for Mexico state governor elect Delfina Gómez to speak to the four main presidential hopefuls. (Andrea Murcia Monsivais / Cuartoscuro.com)

“I can’t say any more about the issue,” he added before noting that he has committed to not “tip the balance” in favor of any of those seeking the Morena party nomination, among whom are Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum, Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard and Interior Minister Adán Augusto López.

One reporter put it to the president that electricity use has increased due to the elimination of daylight saving time.

“Look, we haven’t had increases in use beyond what economic growth and population growth demand,” López Obrador responded.

“[Eliminating] daylight saving time was a very good decision, it was accepted by the majority of people, and there are studies that prove that the time change affected [people’s] health. So, there is no problem [and] the price of electricity hasn’t increased,” he said.

Toward the end of his Tuesday presser, AMLO directed Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell to meet with a reporter who raised the case of Lauro Hinostroza – a Peruvian shaman detained at Mexico City airport last year for possession of ayahuasca – and advocated the changing of laws that allow authorities to “criminalize those with ancestral knowledge” who work as curanderos, or healers.

“Explain to her what the health plan is with regard to traditional medicine, with regard to healers,” he told López-Gatell before indicating his openness to the use of medicinal plants in Mexico’s public health system today.

“It’s the original medicine of our country. We suffered from the smallpox pandemic because the healers didn’t know how to treat it because it was an unknown disease,” López Obrador said.

“That’s why it decimated the population in the entire colonial period after the invasion, but before that, in the time of pre-Hispanic civilizations, it was the traditional healers [who treated people] with traditional medicine,” he said.

Wednesday

“We’re going to start with the water projects we’re building. … Water is fundamental, it’s health, it’s life,” López Obrador said at the beginning of his presser.

“So we’re reporting on the projects we’re completing across the entire country – dams, aqueducts, very important water projects.”

Germán Martínez Santoyo, general director of the National Water Commission (Conagua), noted for the second time in as many weeks that the government is investing over 93 billion pesos “with complete transparency and zero corruption” in 15 priority water projects.

Construction of the La Libertad dam in Nuevo León is 65% complete, he said.

The Conagua chief said that the federal and Nuevo León governments are each investing 3.68 billion pesos in the project and that it will benefit 500,000 residents of the northern border state, which suffered a severe drought last year. Martínez said that the dam is expected to be completed by the end of the year.

The El Cuchillo II aqueduct, also in Nuevo León, will be built in “record time,” he said, without mentioning a completion date. The project will benefit all residents of Monterrey, Martínez said.

Iñáki Echeverría spoke about the project he is managing – the Lake Texcoco Ecological Park, which is under construction on a México state site where the previous federal government began building a new Mexico City airport.

The park encompasses “an area of 14,300 hectares that was protected by you, Mr. President, on March 22, 2022 through a decree that converted it into a natural protected area,” he said.

Echeverría said that the park is 17 times the size of the Chapultepec Forest in Mexico City and will “improve the living conditions” of all residents of the Valley of Mexico, including by helping to reduce air pollution. The project is 65% complete, he said.

Iñaki Echeverría at press conference
Iñaki Echeverría discusses the Texcoco project at the morning press conference. (Daniel Augusto / Cuartoscuro.com)

AMLO returned to center stage to take reporters’ questions and was immediately asked about the decision by Foreign Minister Ebard to resign to focus on winning the ruling Morena party’s nomination for the 2024 presidential election.

The president said that Ebrard is resigning because the process to find a Morena candidate has “already started,” although the ruling party has not yet defined exactly what that process will entail.

López Obrador said it’s “possible” that other aspirants to the Morena candidacy will announce their resignations in the coming days.

The selection of a presidential candidate via an internal survey is an “unprecedented event, something never seen”, AMLO said, noting that previous presidents imposed a person of their choosing – a so-called tapado – in a move colloquially known as a dedazo.

“The president was the one who designated his successor, we’re talking about centuries, and for the first time there is no tapado, there is no dedazo, there is no imposition,” he said.

Later in his presser, the president fielded a question about the alleged murder by the army of five men in Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas, on May 18.

“It appears that there was an execution and that can’t be allowed, we’re not the same as previous governments,” he said.

“When there is abuse, … when human rights are violated, the culprits have to be punished. The process to deepen the investigation has already begun,” López Obrador said, adding that all the soldiers involved in the incident will face justice.

“In the past, massacres were ordered from above,” while the Nuevo Laredo incident, which followed a similar event in the same city earlier this year, is among “isolated cases” of extrajudicial killings that have occurred during the current government, he said.

“When they happen, they’re punished, they’re not allowed. In other words, we’re not the same,” AMLO said.

Among other remarks, López Obrador noted he would meet with United States Secretary of Transportation Pete Buttigieg later in the day to discuss Mexico’s efforts to recover its Category 1 aviation safety rating with U.S. authorities, which it lost in 2021.

“At 12 I’m going to [the] Felipe Ángeles [International Airport] and we’re going to meet [there]. We’re going to address the Category 1 thing because we already did everything [required],” he said.

Thursday

Before opening the floor to questions, López Obrador offered “two pieces of good news” in the economic realm – annual inflation declined to 5.84% in May and the Mexican peso “continues to strengthen” against the US dollar.

“It’s a phenomenon, look at this, 17.37 pesos per dollar. When we arrived [to government] it was at over 20 [to the dollar] and the forecast of our adversaries was that it was going up to 30,” AMLO said.

AMLO at Thursday press conference
The president discussed his administration’s economic policies at the Thursday morning press conference. (Gob MX)

Responding to a question about the public health system, the president claimed that the current level of medication supplies is sufficient for two years.

“People are still complaining that they can’t find medicines,” countered a reporter, prompting López Obrador to present data to back up his claim.

“We’re making progress and when I finish [my six-year term] – before I finish – this system will be much better than other public health systems around the world,” AMLO said.

He subsequently accused the reporter of bias. “I’m sure that on your radio station, if we do an analysis of the past month, [we’ll find that] all the stories are against us,” he said.

“… I’m absolutely certain that your radio station dedicated itself to attacking us this [past] month. Not just [then], but for some time now.”

Turning his focus to the contest between those vying for the Morena party’s nomination for the 2024 presidential election – currently one of the hottest topics in Mexico – López Obrador noted that the “rules” for the selection process will be set at a meeting of the Morena National Council this Sunday.

Asked how he felt about “presidential succession,” he responded:

“Very good, very good, because I have a lot of confidence in the people, … full confidence in the people. The people of Mexico are in a phase of [political] awakening, and are among the most politically aware people in the world – that’s exceptional, it’s extraordinary.”

Later in his presser, the president addressed a recent outbreak of violence in a southern region of Mexico’s southernmost state.

“We’re attending to what is happening on the border between Chiapas and Guatemala. … There is an organized crime presence, … that’s why [there have been] these confrontations. But we’re acting, the National Guard is there and a program to strengthen the welfare programs is about to be applied,” he said.

“It’s a bit like what we did in Aguililla, in Michoacán, where it wasn’t just about [having] the presence of the National Guard but also strengthening the welfare programs, and in that way we managed to calm things down and guarantee peace in Aguililla. We’re doing the same thing in … Chiapas,” López Obrador said.

Toward the end of his presser, AMLO expressed confidence that United States authorities would soon reinstate Mexico’s top-tier aviation safety rating.

“The transportation secretary is a very respectful person, attentive and I’m sure we’re going to have good news,” he said a day after meeting Buttigieg.

“I don’t want to set deadlines because they’re fatal. You’ll say to me, ‘What happened? Nothing yet?’ It depends on the paperwork and there in [the United States] there are also rheumatic elephants you have to push,” López Obrador said, employing a term he frequently uses to describe slow-moving bureaucracy.

Friday

The president dove straight into responding to reporters’ questions at the beginning of his final press conference of the week.

“The disappearance [of people] and later finding the victims in clandestine graves is very regrettable,” López Obrador said when asked about abductions and homicides in Jalisco, where the remains of missing call center workers were found last week.

He said that the federal government is working with the Jalisco government on that case and others, and that the United States government has offered “some recommendations” to assist the investigation into the disappearance of eight Zapopan-based call center workers.

“Regarding missing people in the country, a new census is being carried out in order to have complete certainty how many there really are,” AMLO added.

“State governments, state Attorney General’s Offices are helping us … in order to have … a reliable census because [the register] needs updating,” he said.

Over 112,000 people are officially registered as missing in Mexico, but López Obrador said there are cases in which disappearances remain on the register even after those who vanished are found.

The president was later asked about Mexico’s attempt to retake possession of the penacho de Moctezuma, a feathered headdress that is thought to have belonged to the Mexica huey tlatoani, or emperor, at the time of the Spanish conquest.

The government of Austria has demonstrated a “very arrogant attitude,” AMLO responded.

“In recent times they’ve argued or claimed that it can’t be moved because it would be destroyed. That’s something that has no basis, in our opinion. The truth is they don’t want to hand it over,” he said of the penacho, which is on display at the Weltmuseum Wien, an ethnographic museum in Vienna.

A modern copy of the headdress is displayed in the National Museum of Anthropology and History, in Mexico City.
A replica of the artifact is displayed in the National Museum of Anthropology and History in Mexico City. (Thomas Ledl)

“And as tends to happen in these cases, it’s not just governments that consider themselves owners of things that don’t belong to them, but also associations of experts.”

AMLO noted that his wife traveled to Austria in 2020 and delivered a letter to the country’s president asking for a loan of the headdress for an exhibition commemorating the 500th anniversary of the fall of Tenochtitlán.

After acknowledging that the mission failed, López Obrador indicated that Mexico would continue to pressure Austria to return the artifact.

“Everything that was stolen, everything that was [illegally] removed from Mexico has to be recovered, in this case and others,” he said.

A reporter subsequently noted that there will soon be just two Institutional Revolutionary Party, or PRI, governors – Esteban Villegas in Durango and Manolo Jiménez in Coahuila – due to Morena’s victory in México state, and asked AMLO about the relationship the federal government will have with the governments they lead.

“[Jiménez] is now governor-elect and later he will be governor … and we need to have good coordination and work together because it’s not a partisan issue, it’s not about our ways of thinking, which might be different,” López Obrador said.

“We have to serve the people of Coahuila … and all the people of Mexico. … I’ve always said that the party [you represent] is one thing and government is another. Party, as its name indicates, is a part, one part. The government represents everyone, the budget the government manages is for all people. So there will be a good relationship,” he said.

“…  We’ve been supporting both states with welfare programs. In the case of Durango, the Sowing Life [reforestation/employment] program is being implemented … and we’re building roads in the most remote communities of Durango and we’re doing it jointly with the state government. And the same thing for Coahuila, the welfare programs are continuing,” López Obrador said.

Among other remarks, AMLO offered a synopsis of the economic situation in Argentina, where annual inflation is over 100%.

“What happened in Argentina? Why is the crisis in Argentina so deep? Because, in complicity with international financial bodies, the government of [former president Mauricio] Macri put Argentina into debt, but with no limit,” he said.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

The art (and controversy) of promoting Mexico with Wixárika beads

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Cesar Menchaca and his work
Cesar Menchaca brought Huichol art to the world. As his retrospective opens in Mexico City, the author asks, where is the line between innovation and appropriation? (Leigh Thelmadatter)

Cesar Menchaca puts the work of Wixárika (Huichol) artists in spaces it might never otherwise be.

Born in 1967 in Mexico City, Menchaca defines himself not as an artist or anthropologist, but as “an entrepreneur-lover of art and Mexican culture.”

That love can be seen in the works and exhibitions of his Menchaca Studio, established in 2010 in part of his home.

The organization’s mission statement says that the goal is to “create artistic pieces with high cultural value by fusing Mexican art of all types with contemporary art.” The studio succeeds most with eye-catching reinterpretations of Wixárika art, but they and similar reworkings of traditional Indigenous art can raise questions.

Menchaca’s work has also been used to promote sporting events. These trophies with beaded American footballs were sponsored by both the U.S. embassy and the Foreign Affairs Ministry to celebrate 200 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries. (Menchaca Studio)

Menchaca’s involvement in the field is relatively recent: born to a family of 14 in one of the downtrodden neighborhoods surrounding the Virgin of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City, he worked his way out of poverty. 

His journey began in fashion, founding brands like ¡Qué Chingón!, which had some success exporting to the U.S. But textiles is a fickle business, and pressure from Chinese clothes makers bankrupted him by 2010. 

Around this same time, he became attracted to Wixárika art because he saw “for just how little the artisans had to sell their work out on the street,” and he knew he could develop a much better market. 

Although Menchaca is a self-taught artist, he does not get involved in the creative process. His main talent is pairing contemporary and Wixárika artists affiliated with his studio to create works for high-profile international audiences. 

Calaca Wixarika
One of a series of calacas or Catrinas that the studio has made. Although the skeletal figures are indeed authentically Mexican, they do not really figure into the culture of the Wixárika. (Leigh Thelmadatter)

The studio is a major promoter of Wixárika beadwork worldwide — its work has been displayed in the Americas, Europe, the Middle East and Asia in famous luxury hotels, skyscrapers and sporting events. At the Burj Khalifa, the studio exhibited a bronze Mexican eagle studded with 3 million Swarovski crystals. The Sport Summit Mexico Exhibit received a soccer ball with 3.8 million beads. 

Menchaca has also done works for the NFL, Formula 1, Longines Global Champions Tour México, the Russia 2018 Soccer World Cup and the Hotel Presidente International. He has even collaborated with Cirque du Soleil in Montreal and various other corporations to decorate watches, wine bottles and more.

In Mexico, his work has been exhibited at the Palacio de Bellas Artes and Paseo de la Reforma in Mexico City. A retrospective exhibit called “Pasiones” (Passions) has been touring Mexican cities.

The works are aimed at audiences that would probably never give Wixárika work a second (or even a first) glance. Themes vary widely, but most relate to Mexico in one way or another. But the purpose here is not an authentic recreation of Wixárika culture or art, nor is it to educate the public about either in any depth. At most, the pieces function as a kind of introduction to Mexican culture, and with luck, some will read the labels and learn the words Wixárika or Huichol.

Beaded mountain bike exhibited in the esplanade of Paseo Arcos Bosques shopping center in Mexico City. (Menchaca Studio)

Although those who place the beads are Wixárikas from western Mexico, there can sometimes be very little from that culture in the design or execution. The base sculpture is made from resin, bronze, carbon fiber and brass, while the beads are fastened with modern adhesives. Such materials are far more durable than the traditional wood and Campeche wax. 

In about the past decade, Menchaca estimates, his collaborations have placed more than 150 million beads and other tiny objects. Some projects have used crystals (including the aforementioned Swarovski), sequins, and for one project, bits of plastic recovered from ocean-dumped garbage. 

In the choices of form and decoration, primary attention is paid to making works that draw attention. Wixárika elements can be secondary or even nonexistent.

Reinterpretations, especially those with significant or controlling interest by non-Indigenous people, risk significant criticism. There needs to be a balance between two competing, even contradictory goals; respecting the originating culture (avoiding kitsch) and creating art that the market will accept.

The sea turtle and globe are decorated with a combination of traditional Wixárika beadwork and rounded bits of ocean-recovered plastics to bring attention to pollution. (Leigh Thelmadatter)

All Mexican folk art faces the same pressures to change to meet market conditions, but Wixárika art has an added issue: its elements have religious meaning. 

“For the Huichol, art is prayer and direct communication with and participation in the sacred realm,” said Peter Furst, an early researcher and author of “Visions of a Wixárika Shaman.”  

“[Art] is meant to assure the good and beautiful life; health and fertility of crops, animals, and people; prosperity of the individual, the kin group, and the larger society,” Furst says. 

The studio is by no means the first or only organization to reinterpret Wixárika art and broaden its appeal. Depending on your point of view, projects like these are a bridge between cultures, cultural appropriation or maybe a bit of both. The issue of how, how much, and even whether traditional works should be modified at all continues to be debated. 

Changing attitudes have led to efforts to establish “communal rights” over traditional art and designs in Mexican law, although its successful implementation is in doubt — and what this might mean for the studio remains unclear.

Menchaca is certainly aware of the issues surrounding his work but defends it, saying that even if the sculpture is of a very “non-Mexican” endangered rhinoceros “… it also represents the similar danger [of disappearing] that aspects of Mexican culture face.” 

His ocean-waste exhibit at the Tianguis Turístico is anything but kitsch. It not only has a serious message, the integration of bits of plastic with more traditional beadwork perhaps affirms Wixárika respect for nature in the modern world.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Seeking the perfect steak: whispered secrets and urban legends

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Salting a steak
The perfect steak is a fine at. Make sure to sprinkle salt from 10-12 inches above your steak for maximum coverage.

I don’t have much of a red-meat-eating history, and — full disclosure — rarely, if ever, cook it at home. I have never barbecued. (Eaten, yes, but cooked it myself? No.)

I don’t get excited about bloody juices oozing from a “perfectly cooked” burger or roast beef sandwich, and, after a more-than-20-year stint as a strict vegetarian, still cringe in the meat section of the supermarket. (Let’s not even talk about the mercado! Shudder.) 

So my challenge with this column was figuring out what I could possibly write about steak that steadfast meat-eaters wouldn’t already know. Here’s what I came up with: 

  • Debunking some common steak myths 
  • How to find what you want from a Mexican butcher, who may or may not know the English names for the cuts you’re looking for
  • Chef’s tips for turning your steak dinner at home into a restaurant-worthy meal
  • Recipes to liven up your regular repertoire 

The world of steak is full of whispered secrets and urban legends. Does bone-in steak have more flavor than boneless? Should you season the meat before or after you cook it? Never flip your steak more than once!

Chances are you’ve heard these and other warring pieces of advice about how to cook the best steak. Rather than discuss them one by one, this excellent article explains in detail the truth behind each. 

A perfect steak
Following some simple guidelines will yield that perfect, melt-in-your-mouth steak you’re looking for.

Because we’re in Mexico, it’s helpful to know the Spanish names for the cuts you’re looking for. Depending on where you live, many, if not most, butchers will know the English names, but cut and packaged beef or restaurant menus may only have the Spanish name. (Big-box stores like Sam’s, Costco and Walmart will be the exceptions.)

Here’s a great chart with English and Spanish names of all the cuts of beef to help you in a pinch.

I can’t tell you how many blogs, recipes and articles I’ve read and videos I’ve watched about cooking steak in the past few weeks. One of my favorites is “Red Meat Lover,” with host Joey Brisket (hah).

He does indeed love red meat, and his YouTube channel is full of lively, fun and informative videos, many of them testing different methods and theories about how to cook the perfect steak. In this video he experiments with three types of salt — kosher, Himalayan pink and regular table salt — for seasoning steak. 

Chefs recommend using kosher salt because the large, coarse, uneven grains dissolve slowly into the meat, tenderizing and flavoring as they go. (If you can’t find kosher salt, chances are you can find coarse grain salt, often from the Mexican state of Colima.)

The fine, even grains of regular table salt will dissolve too quickly and run off the meat before they do the job you want them to. Also, salting steak from 10–12 inches above is not just for show; it allows for maximum spread and coverage. Try it and see! 

Salt
The large, chunky and uneven grains of kosher salt are the best for salting steak properly.

True or false: thick-cut steaks taste better.

True! A steak that’s at least an inch — or even better, an inch and a half — thick is going to end up with a juicy inside and that crispy, luscious outside that you’re looking for. A thinner cut will be dry and overcooked before the outside is done. 

Last but not least: buy a meat thermometer. This one little piece of equipment will help you immeasurably in cooking the perfect steak.

Always insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat. It will continue cooking a few minutes after you take it off the heat, so you want to do that when the internal temperature is about 5 degrees lower than your desired doneness.

  • Rare: 120 F (49 C) (very red/pink)
  • Medium: 140 F (60 C) (slightly pink)
  • Well-done: 160 F (71 C) (all brown)

And let the meat rest before slicing, about 5 minutes, loosely covered with foil or not; this helps the juices stay in the meat.

Butter-Basted Pan-Seared Steak

  • 1 large bone-in T-bone, ribeye, Porterhouse or New York strip steak
  • Kosher salt and black pepper
  • ¼ cup vegetable or canola oil
  • 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • Optional: fresh thyme or rosemary, ½ cup finely sliced shallots (optional)

Pat steak dry with paper towels. Season liberally on all sides, including edges, with salt and pepper. If desired, let steak rest at room temperature for 45 minutes or refrigerated and loosely covered for up to 3 days.

In a 12-inch, heavy-bottomed cast-iron skillet, heat oil over high heat until just beginning to smoke. Carefully add steak and cook, flipping frequently, until a pale golden-brown crust starts to develop, about 4 minutes total.

Add butter, herbs and shallots (if using) to skillet. Continue cooking, flipping occasionally and basting with foaming butter. If butter smokes excessively or steak begins to burn, reduce heat to medium.

To baste, tilt pan slightly so butter collects by the handle. Use a spoon to pick up butter and pour over steak, aiming at light spots.

Continue flipping and basting 8–10 minutes until thermometer inserted into thickest part of tenderloin side registers desired doneness. Transfer steak to platter; pour pan juices on top. Rest 5–10 minutes and serve.

cutting meat for fajitas
Fajitas are always better if you let the meat marinade for a while first. (Usman Yousaf/Unsplash)

Fajita Marinade

For best flavor, grind your own chili powder from equal parts ancho and guajillo chiles.

  • ½ cup soy sauce
  • ½ cup fresh lime juice
  • ½ cup canola oil
  • ¼ cup packed brown sugar
  • 1 Tbsp. chili powder 
  • 1 Tbsp. minced garlic 
  • 2 tsp. ground cumin 
  • 2 tsp. black pepper

Whisk together all ingredients in medium bowl; marinate meat in covered bowl or zipper-lock bag at least 3 hours.

Steak Sauce

  • 1 cup ketchup
  • ¼ cup water
  • ¼ cup dried shiitake mushrooms
  • ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
  • ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • ¼ cup white vinegar
  • ½ cup chopped white onion
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 3 Tbsp. soy sauce
  • 2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
  • 1 Tbsp. dry mustard powder

Combine ketchup, water, mushrooms, Worcestershire, lemon juice and vinegar in saucepan. Whisk in remaining ingredients. Over medium heat, simmer 45 minutes, until sauce is thick and pourable and flavors have melded.

Strain out solids. Serve warm poured over skirt steak.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

AMLO predicts ‘good news’ for FAA rating after Buttigieg meetup

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Mexico President Lopez Obrador meets with US Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg
President López Obrador spoke with U.S. Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg about Mexico's improvements in aviation safety and the development of commercial routes to the new AIFA airport. (lopezobrador.org.mx)

A day after meeting with United States Secretary of Transportation Pete Buttigieg, President López Obrador said Thursday that he expects “good news” with regard to Mexico’s desired recovery of its top-tier aviation safety rating with U.S. authorities.

In May 2021, the United States Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) announced that it had downgraded Mexico’s aviation safety rating from Category 1 to Category 2 after finding that it wasn’t meeting standards set by the International Civil Aviation Organization, a specialized agency of the United Nations.

Wednesday’s gathering was held at the new Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA), AMLO’s answer to the growing logistical and structural problems at the International Airport of Mexico City (AICM). (lopezobrador.org.mx)

The downgrade prevents Mexican airlines from adding new routes to the United States, a situation seen as a significant hindrance to the success of the Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA), which opened in March 2022.

López Obrador and other high-ranking Mexican officials met with Buttigieg at AIFA on Wednesday, after the transportation secretary flew into the new army-built airport. United States Ambassador to Mexico Ken Salazar also attended the talks.

Speaking at his morning news conference on Thursday, López Obrador said that U.S. authorities are “reviewing the entire process” that has been carried out to assess Mexico’s suitability for a Category 1 rating.

“Everything that they demanded has been fulfilled. … there is one more step to be taken in the United States. The transportation secretary is a very respectful person, attentive, and I’m sure we’re going to have good news,” he said.

Mexico lost its Category 1 safety rating over a year ago due to non-compliance with minimum International Civil Aviation Organization safety standards, related to matters like technical expertise, personnel training and record keeping.
Mexico lost its Category 1 safety rating over a year ago due to noncompliance with minimum International Civil Aviation Organization safety standards, related to matters like technical expertise, personnel training and record keeping. (Twitter)

“I don’t want to set deadlines because they’re fatal. You’ll say to me, ‘What happened? Nothing yet?’ It depends on the paperwork, and there in [the United States], there are also rheumatic elephants you have to push,” López Obrador said, employing a term he frequently uses to describe slow-moving bureaucracy.

The FAA is not the only entity that has raised questions about aviation safety in Mexico.

The International Federation of Air Line Pilots’ Associations said in May 2022 that it appeared that air traffic controllers at the Mexico City International Airport (AICM) had received “little training and support” on directing flights operating in the new airspace configuration precipitated by the opening of AIFA north of the capital.

The National Air Traffic Controllers Union subsequently acknowledged that its members lacked training. Some currently working at Mexican airports were approved for entry to training courses in 2019 despite failing admission tests, a 2021 audit found.

That revelation, published by the Reforma newspaper last year, came shortly after two dangerous incidents at AICM were caused by air traffic control errors.

Pilots of a Volaris plane narrowly averted a disaster on May 7, 2022, after they were cleared to land on a runway occupied by another aircraft. A similar incident occurred four days later.

The FAA concluded a review of Mexico’s aviation safety last week, according to Mexico’s Ministry of Infrastructure, Communications and Transport (SICT), which said that a final report on the results of the audit would be issued in the coming weeks.

The ministry said that Mexican officials responded to 316 questions from U.S. experts on a range of topics, including air safety and related legislation.

In addition to the improvements requested by the FAA, the government has made renovations to Mexico City’s aging Benito Juárez airport, which has struggled to keep up with the volume of flight traffic. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

The news agency Reuters reported that in the two years since Mexico lost its top-tier safety rating, “the country has revamped its aviation standards, replacing officials and most recently overhauling its civil aviation law.”

Although López Obrador said before his meeting with Buttigieg that discussions would focus on the recovery of Mexico’s Category 1 rating, a joint statement issued by the United States Department of Transportation and SICT on Thursday didn’t specifically mention that issue.

However, it did say that the Mexican and U.S. governments are both “committed to the successful development of AIFA in ways that will bolster the U.S.-Mexico air transportation relationship.”

The statement said that “strong transportation links between Mexico and the United States are essential to our two countries and our economies” and that López Obrador and Buttigieg “discussed approaches to further strengthen these links, deepen our people-to-people ties, and support continued integration of North American supply chains.”

One issue already identified: AICM apparently received little training and support as to how to direct flights operating in the new airspace configuration created when Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) opened north of the capital.
AIFA is projected to completely relieve the AICM of cargo traffic, which “will give the country’s economy a boost,” according to Mexico’s customs chief. (Gob MX)

“… We discussed further steps our governments can take to promote the expansion of commercial operations at AIFA, including the flexibility and support that will help U.S. carriers to successfully launch operations there,” it added.

On social media, López Obrador said that he and Buttigieg spoke about the transfer of cargo airlines to AIFA — the government published a decree in February indefinitely suspending cargo operations at AICM — as well as the recovery of the Category 1 rating.

The U.S. transportation secretary responded to the president on Twitter, writing that they shared a “good discussion on steps our governments can take to support operations at Felipe Ángeles International Airport and to help U.S. carriers succeed there in ways that strengthen supply chains for both nations.”

Mexico News Daily 

5 spots to find the great outdoors in Querétaro state

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Las Adjuntas
Las Adjuntas, in Querétaro's Sierra Gorda, is great for kayaking. (3rios Kayak)

José Ramón Jardón is an avid outdoorsman who has lived in the city of Santiago de Querétaro for more than30 years. “I like hiking, rock climbing, and camping. I spend as much time as I can outdoors.”

Jardón liked the outdoors so much that he started a business that takes people to his favorite sites. That was in 2019, and it proved to be wonderfully successful throughout the COVID-19 pandemic.

José Ramón Jardón, founder and chief guide of Jardón Outfitters.
José Ramón Jardón, founder and chief guide of Jardón Outfitters.

“There was nothing else people could do then,” he says. “The only safe place to go was out into nature.”

Over the four years since he opened his business, Jardón has amassed a list of great sites you can easily reach if you live in Querétaro — or plan to visit! Listed below are just a few: 

El Cerro del Zamorano 

“This is the highest mountain in the state of Quéretaro, 3,360 meters above sea level, and it is truly my favorite place to escape to,” says Jardón. “There’s a very old forest on top of the mountain, filled with hiking and biking trails, and there’s a large deer and cougar population in the area. I know a fellow from Eastern Michigan University who spent two years up there taking pictures of the cougars.”

Cerro del Zamorano mountain forest in Queretaro, Mexico
A path through the lush forest covering the Cerro del Zamorano. (John Pint)

The Cerro del Zamorano is about a two-hour drive from the city of Querétaro. 

“Usually I would leave town at 7 a.m,” says Jardón. “It’s a scenic route all the way, with some great lookout points where you can admire the massiveness of the mountain you’re approaching — which by the way, is an extinct volcano.”

Up on top, he says, you’ll find yourself among oyamel firs, pine trees and Texas madrones. The oyamel grows only above 2,100 meters and is the preferred tree of the monarch butterfly. 

The madrone, also called the strawberry tree, is covered with very smooth, red bark and is also known as the lady’s leg tree. 

“This bark,” says Jardón, “is paper-thin and makes the very best tinder you could ever hope for.”

El Doctor

El Doctor is the name of a small town located about 100 km northeast of Querétaro. 

Mountains near El Doctor, Queretaro
The mountains near the town of El Doctor are perfect for climbers. Note the climber in center. (Jardón Outfitters)

“Near El Doctor there is a great rock climbing area with astonishing views,” says Jardón.  “When you look down, you discover that you are actually up above the clouds. This is something you can really appreciate if you go there during the rainy season.”

Every year, during Holy Week, the people of El Doctor do a dance wearing “devil masks,” perhaps representing Judas. At the end of the celebration, the masks are burned.

“The town is cozy and friendly,” Jardón says, “and there are some good places to eat, but the main reason to go to this area is for rock climbing. However, I don’t recommend it for beginning hikers because it is so steep. This impressive site is located about 1 hour and 40 minutes from Querétaro.”

Río Escanela

The Escanela is a beautiful river surrounded by forest, located 7.4 kilometers from Pinal de Amoles in the Sierra Gorda, about two and a half hours by car from Querétaro.

“The color of the water,” says Jardón, “is turquoise-blue, and when you jump in, you find it’s crystal clear and perfectly clean. At one point, the river passes through a short cave with impressive waterfalls called El Puente de Dios (God’s Bridge).

Escanela River in Queretaro, Mexico's Sierra Gorda
Hiking along the Río Escanela, also in the Sierra Gorda, is like walking into a piece of paradise. (John Pint)

This river is also home to the extremely rare Mexican axolotl, so there are well-marked areas where you should stay out of the water. If you take your time, this might make for a nice two-hour walk, there and back.

Jardón adds that the Escanela is popular with tourists and can be packed with people in the summer or during holidays. Go there on a weekday, and you and the axolotls may have the whole place to yourselves.

Bucareli

This visit starts out in Querétaro and takes you to Pinal de Amoles, which, at 2,400 meters above sea level, is one of the highest municipalities in the Sierra Gorda. From here, you’ll descend 1.3 kilometers in altitude to Bucareli, one of the range’s lowest towns.

“It’s hard to get there,” comments Jardón, “but it’s worth the trip because you get to experience a lot of different environments. This might be a three-and-a-half-hour drive, and about one hour of that drive is on back roads, so I recommend going in a high-clearance vehicle. I don’t suggest doing it in a car.”

Your visit to Bucareli takes you from high forest to semi-desert. After that, you enter a real desert. But once you get there, you find yourself in a semi-tropical environment.

Here you’ll find one of the oldest monasteries in the Sierra Gorda. now transformed into a museum, though its church is still in use. After walking around town, you can go hiking by the river. The surrounding massive mountains make this experience truly scenic, says Jardón.

Concá

This is another of Jardón’s favorite sites. It’s located 220 km northeast of Querétaro, but getting there takes close to four hours. 

The town of Concá is famous for its Árbol Milenario (thousand-year tree), a Montezuma cypress measuring 22 meters in diameter and said to be 1,000 years old.

Clouds over town of El Doctor, Queretaro
Near the town of El Doctor, there are places where you can get high enough to see the clouds below you. (John Pint)

“Eight kilometers from Concá, there’s a spectacularly beautiful place called Las Adjuntas,” Jardón told me, “where two rivers — the Santa María and the Ayutla — meet under huge weeping willows.”

This location is great for swimming and kayaking, the latter of which you can do with local companies, Jardón says. 

There are, of course, plenty of touristy outdoor attractions in the state of Querétaro, such as the 433-meter-tall Peña de Bernal natural monolith — one of the world’s largest. But if you yearn for peace and quiet (i.e. fewer people) as well as fresh air, you would do well to go to Jardón Outfitters’ website or call them at 442-359-3916 (WhatsApp).

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.