Thursday, June 26, 2025

State by Plate: The wines of Querétaro

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Querétaro’s high-altitude vineyards produce some of Mexico’s best wine. (Querétaro Travel)

Of Mexico’s 19 protected denominaciones de origen, nearly half are given to spirits (tequila, mezcal, bacanora, sotol, charanda, and raicilla) or coffee-growing regions (Chiapas, Pluma, and Veracruz). Notably missing from the list is wine. There is no comparable designation in Mexico to something like the AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) in France, or the AVA (American Viticultural Area) in the U.S., which tells you that a wine came from say, Champagne or Napa Valley, and that it’s from a growing area with a long-standing reputation for quality.

As of March 2025, however, Mexico does have one wine-growing area that has been granted an indicación geográfica (or IGP) by the Instituto Mexicano de la Propiedad Industrial (IMPI), a designation that is reserved for products that showcase characteristics and quality unique to their geographic region. No, it wasn’t for one of the renowned valleys of Baja California, the state that produces upwards of 70% of all wine made in Mexico. Nor was it given to Coahuila, site of the oldest winery in all of North America (Casa Madero). Instead, the IGP was announced for Querétaro.

The annual wine and cheese festival in Tequisquiapan is one of Querétaro’s most popular attractions. (Feria Nacional del Queso y el Vino)

What, you didn’t know Querétaro was the country’s premier producer of sparkling and effervescent wines? Well, it is.

How wines are grown in Querétaro

Although wine grapes were planted in Querêtaro as far back as 1531, the state’s wine industry is relatively young, and many of the state’s 50-plus wineries opened within the last two decades. The most important opening, however, was that of Freixenet Mexico, which began producing sparkling wines in the state in 1986. 

Freixenet, of course, is the largest producer of Cava in Spain, a sparkling wine made using the traditional method of champenoise that, like champagne in France and Prosecco in Italy, very much has a denomination of origin. This means that the name Cava cannot be used in Mexico. Thus, sparklers from Freixenet Mexico’s flagship brand, Finca Sala Vivé, and other notable Querétaro producers like San Juanito Vitivinicola, Viñedos La Redonda, and De Cote Casa Vitivinicola label their wines as vino espumoso.

Wineries in Querétaro often use grape varieties like macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada that are also used in Spain for Cava. The terroir, though, is very different. Despite not being in a traditional wine-growing latitude, growers in Querétaro can produce high-quality wines thanks to two factors: vineyards planted at high altitudes between 6,200 and 7,000 feet above sea level (1,900 to 2,300 meters), and superb calcium-rich clay soils.

These conditions have not only proven fertile for sparkling wines, but also table wines made from international grape varieties such as merlot, syrah, chardonnay, and sauvignon blanc, allowing Queretaro to produce an estimated 3.5 million bottles annually, and build a wine industry that brings in around 4 billion pesos (US $208 million) a year. 

Not only is sopa queretana delicious, but it also played a pivotal role in the writing of Mexico’s constitution. (Stay QRO)

Included in the wine industry, it should be mentioned, is wine’s traditional pairing partner, cheese. Querétaro is an excellent Mexican producer of sheep, cow, and goat milk-based cheeses, most notably from Rancho San Josemaría in the Huimilpan municipality, which has been honored with 10 medals at the World Cheese Awards and Concours International de Lyon, and has established itself as the most awarded artisanal cheesemaker in all of Latin America. 

La Feria Nacional del Queso y el Vino, y La Ruta del Queso y el Vino

The most spectacular showcase for these two regional products, wine and cheese, is what, since 1976, has been known as the Feria Nacional del Queso y el Vino in the pueblo mágico of Tequisquiapan. However, this year, the event has been renamed Festival Internacional del Arte, Queso, y Vino and will take place May 22 through June 8 with an expanded focus that includes art exhibitions, music, and dance. Organizers are expecting this change to grow attendance from the traditional 60,000 or so to as much as 100,000. As always, however, wine tastings and cheese samplings will continue to be a focus of the event.

Queretaro-bound travelers who won’t be there in time for the festival can still sample wine and cheese to their heart’s content, thanks to the year-round Ruta del Queso y el Vino, which stretches some 35 kilometers from Tequisquiapan to Bernal, with stops at Ezequiel Montes and other viticultural hotbeds along the way. Harvest season is June to September, so this is the optimal time for those who want to stomp some grapes. But the wine pouring never stops.

The signature food dishes of Querétaro 

Naturally, there’s more than just cheese to eat in Querétaro. The state is also famed for iconic namesake dishes like sopa queretana and enchiladas queretanas. The former was legendarily created during the Mexican Revolution era, as the story goes, as nourishment for congressmen drafting the country’s constitution in 1917. The three essential ingredients are chicken broth, avocado, and fried crispy tortilla strips, but yes, cream and queso are frequently added, too.

Enchiladas queretanas are the emblematic dish in Querétaro. (Querétaro Travel)

Enchiladas queretanas have an even longer past, with their roots in Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past, when ingredients like corn and chilies became staples of the national cuisine. Guajillo chilies, in particular, cooked in milk, give enchiladas queretanas their distinctive flavor. Milk, along with pork, was added after the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century, leading to the dish’s reputation as one of the first mestizo culinary recipes. It was in cookbooks by the 19th century and is still a staple in Querétaro homes and restaurants.

Barbacoa, meanwhile, is not nearly as famous in Querétaro as it is in Hidalgo, but it’s made much the same way: lamb is wrapped in maguey leaves and slow-cooked in underground pits. The most famous practitioner of this style needs no introduction to almost anyone who has driven through Querétaro. Barbacoa Santiago, a premier purveyor of the traditional delicacy, is located at Km 152 on the Mexico-Querétaro highway, just after the Palmillas toll booth, where it has exerted a magnetic force on truckers and anyone else driving by since 1982, when it was opened by its namesake, Don Santiago. More great barbacoa has followed, including an abundance at the annual Feria de la Barbacoa y el Pulque in Boyé, but Barbacoa Santiago remains the mecca.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Puerto Vallarta is evolving to welcome the next generation of travelers

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Zona Romantica in Pueto Vallarta
Long gone are the days that Puerto Vallarta was a gift shop and a couple of cheap bars. The new city is vibrant, cultured and ready to welcome a new breed of traveler. (Vallarta Adventures)

When I first started coming to Puerto Vallarta more than a decade ago, the travel ‘map’ of the city was simple. Tourists stuck to the beachside trifecta: the Malecón, the Zona Romántica and the Marina. I was no different. I was drawn to the cobblestone streets of the Centro, the ocean views and the restaurants lining Los Muertos Beach. But over the years, as I returned again and again, and eventually moved here in 2024, I’ve watched Puerto Vallarta quietly, but profoundly, evolve.

Today, the city’s tourism geography has exploded far beyond the usual zones, thanks in part to shifting traveler preferences, new resident demographics and major infrastructure investments. From foodie-favorite neighborhoods to far-flung mountain villages, the “new” Puerto Vallarta is a sprawling, layered, international city.

An aerial view of Banderas Bay, home of the Vallarta mud turtle
The new Puerto Vallarta is bigger, better and more encompassing than ever before.. (puertovallarta.net)

The rise of new neighborhoods

It’s impossible not to notice the buzz around Versalles, a formerly sleepy residential neighborhood that has transformed into the city’s culinary darling. Think cozy bistros, gourmet bakeries, taco stops and even Tokyo-level sushi bars. 

Nearby, 5 de Diciembre offers that same local slice of life with a side of sea views. Creeping up the hills just north of the Centro, the neighborhood has drawn in both visitors and full-time residents with its colorful streets, hidden taquerias and walkability.

“There’s definitely a growing interest among visitors to explore more than Marina Vallarta, Downtown and the Zona Romántica,” says Luis Villaseñor, Director of the Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board. “The trendy neighborhoods now include Versalles and 5 de Diciembre. These are places with strong culinary identities, walkable layouts and a sense of authentic Vallarta life.”

Villaseñor highlights other neighborhoods gaining traction including Fluvial Vallarta, with its wide boulevards and family-friendly cafes; Emiliano Zapata, the oldest neighborhood in town and home to classic markets and mezcal bars; and El Palmar de Aramara, an area poised to become a culinary destination in its own right, with its proximity to the cruise terminal and local market. 

As someone who has lived in neighborhoods all over the city, I have wandered these “newer” neighborhoods for years and I can say the energy is different. They are less touristy and more lived-in, though their evolution is happening at a lightning pace. 

New areas of the city, like Versalles, are opening up to tourism and expanding what Puerto Vallarta offers visitors to the Jalisco city. (Venecia-Palm Springs)

Why the shift?

So what’s behind the migration away from the old guard of Vallarta neighborhoods? 

“In recent years, the city has experienced an increase in housing and tourist apartment demand that has expanded to new neighborhoods,” said Villasenor. This trend skyrocketed during the pandemic and hasn’t slowed down.

Puerto Vallarta gets around 4 million tourists per year. Local government estimates that there are around 40,000 U.S. and Canadian citizens who now also call Puerto Vallarta home. According to Mexico Life Realty, over the past year, the housing market in Puerto Vallarta has seen a steady increase in the number of active listings, growing from 542 in April 2024 to 674 in March 2025.

As demand for longer stays and remote work setups surged, so too did the development of boutique condos, coliving spaces and Airbnb-ready units, especially in outlying areas. This demand has prompted a wave of infrastructure upgrades. Roads have been paved, sidewalks widened, bike lanes installed. 

Roaming beyond the port

PV cruise ships
Puerto Vallarta has become a staple of the cruise ship itinerary. (Danya Soto/Vallarta Life)

Puerto Vallarta’s evolution isn’t limited to urban neighborhoods. More travelers are trading beach loungers for boots and backpacks, seeking out off-the-grid experiences in the greater Banderas Bay and Sierra Madre regions.

Among the top draws is Yelapa, a boat-accessible fishing village with a bohemian soul. Think eco-retreats, cliffside yoga decks and no cars in sight. For those who crave even more solitude, Mayto offers raw beaches and some of the best stargazing in the state.

In the Sierra Madre highlands, the Pueblos Mágicos of Mascota and San Sebastián del Oeste offer cool mountain air, Spanish architecture and coffee farms worth the trek. Don’t skip Tehuamixtle, a coastal village famous for fresh oysters. If you’re lucky, you may be led to a palapa where you can slurp them straight from the sea.

A new type of visitor

With the expansion of options comes a broader audience. The city now attracts a diverse mix of residents and long-stay travelers who are younger, more mobile and more entrepreneurial. 

“The digital nomad generation has discovered Puerto Vallarta,” says Luis Villaseñor. “It’s now a base for young families, Gen Z entrepreneurs and remote workers from the U.S., Europe and Canada.”

This influx has changed the vibe of the city in important ways. Coworking spaces have popped up all over town. Wellness tourism is booming, and there’s a deeper demand for community-led cultural experiences. 

Co-working spaces are becoming a feature of the Puerto Vallarta travel scene. (Coworker)

Villaseñor says that Puerto Vallarta has also become a sanctuary, attracting migrants and people in transit seeking a safe, open and inclusive place to land.

Building for the future

All of this growth, and the pressure it brings, has not gone unnoticed. Traffic is unbearable. The arrivals terminal at the airport is chaotic. And the city, overall, feels filled to the gills. 

The government has responded with major infrastructure initiatives to ensure Puerto Vallarta stays livable. Among them are the expansion of the city’s international airport, including the construction of Terminal 2, which is expected to double capacity by 2026; and the Las Juntas road interchange, which will alleviate congestion and better connect the city to Riviera Nayarit and the interior highlands.

In 2024, the government of Jalisco, through the Puerto Vallarta Tourism

Board, allocated more than 178 million pesos to public infrastructure, says Villasenor. This included the access route to the International Convention Center and the integral rehabilitation of the entrance boulevard to Puerto Vallarta, adding wider sidewalks and bicycle lanes. Public transportation is also improving with new eco-friendly buses and the Red Jalisco project has installed more than 300 free public Wi-Fi points citywide. 

Even maritime mobility is being upgraded, with new docks in Mismaloya and the Centro to enhance coastal boat routes to Yelapa, Boca de Tomatlan and other beach enclaves. 

Puerto Vallarta is no longer just a beach town for vacationers. It’s a multifaceted destination with layers of culture, community and creativity. As a resident who first arrived as a tourist, I’ve had a front-row seat to watch the city grow in real-time. It’s not just the map that has changed. It’s the story Puerto Vallarta is telling the world. 

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

Taste of Mexico: Tongue tacos

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Here in Mexico, we use every part of the animal. Even the tongue. (Animal Gourmet)

Smell and taste are the senses that can instantly transport you to specific places, moments, and people. What might seem disgusting and unpalatable to some is, for me, one of the most beautiful memories of my childhood: tongue tacos. More specifically, I only love the ones from “Tacos Don Fello” in the Coyoacán market on Higuera Street.

When I was three or four years old, my parents would sit me at the taco counter, and I would happily devour three or four tongue tacos. They would pour my soda, which came in a glass bottle, into a small plastic bag (yes, it was the ’90s), which made me so happy.

Coyoacán’s small food market on Calle Higuera is home to Mexico’s best tongue taco. You heard it here first. (Sabores Mexico)

After I finished my tacos, my parents would take me to buy little toys or trinkets. The most insignificant moment, eating tacos and taking a walk, was for me such an amazing moment.

Yes, we eat the head.

As a country, we have faced many crises and have learned to make full use of every animal and every harvest. Eating beef heads is a long-standing tradition that has evolved over time. From the 17th to the 19th century, much of the beef was consumed in dried forms, such as tasajo or cecina. The remainders — such as the loin, ribs, organs, and head — was cooked in barbacoa or other stews. 19th-century recipes for beef head barbacoa are common in many Mexican cookbooks from that era.

According to locals from Jalisco, in 1936, two men established the first taco stand in Arandas, Jalisco, selling head tacos. I completely believe this claim. My only evidence is that the founder of “Tacos Don Fello” in Coyoacán is also from Jalisco, and they certainly know what they’re doing.

Don’t worry, this isn’t Indiana Jones.

No one’s going to open a tray and reveal a split-open monkey head. What you see is a tortilla filled with meat. The type of filling depends on your preference: there are tacos made with brain, tongue, cheek, and eye. They are steamed to preserve their texture and are kept covered with plastic wrap. When the taquero peels back the plastic, the aroma is incredible. He takes two tortillas, which have been warmed alongside the meat, grabs your chosen meat, places it on a very old chopping board, chops it finely, scoops it up, and puts it on your plate. It’s like poetry. Finally, a sprinkle of cilantro, some onion, and salsa complete the taco.

 

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Une publication partagée par Mexico News Daily (@mexiconewsdaily)

A challenge for you

I understand that Coyoacán may be quite a long way from you, and if you’re not in Mexico, finding beef heads (or even tortillas) could be quite challenging. However, here’s a simple recipe that uses one of the easiest and most tender parts of the head: the tongue.

Tongue tacos

Ingredients

1 clean beef tongue
Salt to taste
1/2 onion
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves
1 kilo (2.2 lbs) tomatillos, cooked
15 sprigs of cilantro, washed
3–5 serrano chiles
1 small garlic clove
Salt to taste
1 kilo corn tortillas
1 onion, chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped

Instructions

  1. Cook the tongue: Place the tongue, salt, half an onion, bay leaves, and two garlic cloves in a large pot. Cover with water and cook over medium heat until tender—about one hour for every 500 grams (1.1 lbs) of tongue.
  2. Chop the cooked tongue: Once cooked, remove the tongue from the pot and let it cool until you can handle it. Peel off the outer skin and cut the tongue into cubes or thin slices.
  3. Make the salsa: While the tongue is cooking, boil the tomatillos until they are soft but not bursting. Blend the tomatillos with cilantro, one serrano chile, one garlic clove, and salt.
  4. Assemble and enjoy: Steam the tortillas, fill them with the chopped tongue, and top with the salsa, diced onion, and additional cilantro to taste.
  5. Enjoy it.

Amigos, I understand that asking you to try tongue tacos isn’t easy. Stepping out of our comfort zone can be a real challenge. However, consider that if someone hadn’t dared to pick a prickly pear, pre-Hispanic peoples might not have survived, and Mexico could look very different today.

If my grandparents hadn’t introduced me to atole de cáscara — a cacao drink that resembles raw petroleum — I wouldn’t know that it’s my favorite. Likewise, if my parents hadn’t given me a tongue taco when I was around three or four years old, it wouldn’t be one of my favorite tacos today. So, take a risk with that first bite. You might just discover a new favorite flavor. Finally, when introducing new flavors to someone, you could be creating a beautiful and lasting memory for them.

So, have you tried tongue tacos? Would you dare to give them a chance?

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

Claudia’s Chinese car conundrum: A perspective from our CEO

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GAC Chinese cars sit on a stage in a Mexican showroom in front of a banner reading "GAC Hybrid: Mas confiabilidad"
The Mexican market for cars from Chinese brands like GAC is growing despite the U.S.-China trade war. (GAC Motors)

Claudia Shienbaum’s job as president of Mexico is getting increasingly difficult.

I have previously written and spoken about the many challenges she faces, from a slowing economy in Mexico to an aggressive President Trump in the U.S. She has many significant and complex decisions to make on trade, infrastructure, health care, judicial reform, the cartels, education and other policy issues with the U.S.

One of the more complicated choices she faces is regarding Chinese cars and Chinese investment in Mexico. Let me explain.

Since the signing of NAFTA over 30 years ago, Mexico has steadily increased its automotive vehicle production to become one of the world’s largest auto producers. In 2024, Mexico produced nearly 4 million vehicles — a record for the country and a 5.5% increase from 2023. Nearly 88% of Mexico’s production is exported, with over 80% going to the United States.

The country has developed an equally impressive auto parts production industry of over US $120 billion with 87% being exported. The result of this growth has placed Mexico in fifth place globally for vehicle production and fourth place globally for auto parts production.

So far so good, right? But things quickly become more complicated. To help me understand what is going on not only in the Mexican auto market but also globally, I sat down with Michael Dunne of Dunne Insights. Dunne has spent over 30 years working in the global auto market and is one of the best people globally to talk to when looking to understand trends and future projections for the industry.

Michael Dunne poses for a professional photo
Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek sat down with Michael Dunne to get his take on the challenges facing Mexico’s auto industry. (Dunne Insights)

Here are some key takeaways from our conversation.

1. Mexico’s domestic car industry sales last year were nearly 1.5 million vehicles, an increase of nearly 10%. Surprisingly, only 34% of the cars sold in the country last year were produced domestically while 66% were imported. Think about that for a moment. Mexico exports 88% of its own car production and yet imports 66% of its domestic car sales! About one third of the imports are from China, meaning Chinese-made vehicles made up about 20% of the domestic car market last year — up from almost nothing just a few years ago.

2. Despite Mexico exporting 88% of its own vehicle production, the country is now the No. 1 importer of Chinese-made cars, just recently overtaking Russia. It’s a significant milestone: Russia is geographically close to China, no longer has much of its own auto industry, and is geopolitically close to China. Mexico, on the other hand, is far from China, has its own massive auto industry, is geopolitically close to the U.S. … and yet it is now importing more Chinese cars than any other country?

3. “From China” doesn’t always mean “Chinese.” Although Mexico is increasingly importing a variety of Chinese brands like BYD, JAC, GAC, etc., it is in fact General Motors cars made in China that make up the largest percentage of imports into Mexico. So despite GM having four plants in the country, the vast majority of its production is exported. GM has such significant overcapacity in China that it has looked to other markets to export its Chinese-made vehicles and Mexico has become the preferred export market for its cars.

4. Several Chinese auto firms have expressed interest in building plants in Mexico, with market-leading BYD teasing the announcement now for over a year. No major announcement has yet been confirmed, but the rate at which impressive-looking Chinese auto dealerships have been being built across the country has shown no sign of a slowdown. There is even a new BYD dealership quickly going up in San Miguel de Allende, where I live. It’s hard to imagine a significant announcement of a new plant taking place in the current trade climate since the start of the second Trump administration.

5. Chinese-made cars have made huge strides in quality, innovation and price over the past several years. According to Dunne, the average new Chinese car export is priced at U.S. $19,000, compared to US $48,000 for a new U.S. car. China by far leads the world in electric car (and battery) production. Ironically, nearly 80% of the cars imported into Mexico from China are gasoline-powered (from plants that have overcapacity due to limited demand in China for gasoline-powered cars).

BYD charging station
Despite China’s dominance in the electric vehicle market, less than a quarter of Chinese vehicles imported into Mexico are electric. (File photo)

6. The USMCA agreement that replaced NAFTA is set to be renewed in 2026. The original plan of what was to take place in 2026 was not a “renegotiation,” but rather a renewal — but that was before Trump starting making threats to violate the agreement even before the official renewal process began. Trump has threatened tariffs on Mexico (in clear violation of the agreement), then acted on this threat and placed tariffs, then removed them, and then threatened tariffs again on Mexico for non-trade reasons (like the border and fentanyl). He has also pressured auto companies around the globe to increase investment in the U.S. and told them to not expect to be able to import autos into the U.S. from any other country (including Mexico) without tariffs. In fact, there have even been rumors (which the company later denied) that Honda was looking to move production from Mexico to the U.S.

7. No matter what happens with the USMCA renewal, it’s difficult to imagine any vehicle companies announcing significant new investments in Mexico anytime soon. It looks like most auto industry foreign direct investment, which historically represents 15% to 20% of the country’s total FDI, is going to be frozen. This means that a significant driver of Mexico’s GDP growth will likely be stalled for some time.

So where does that leave us? The vast majority of Mexican auto production is exported to the United States, and Trump has been continually threatening to put tariffs on those products sooner or later. A majority of domestic auto sales in Mexico is imported, with Chinese-made cars making up nearly a third of those imports and General Motors being the largest importer.

President Sheinbaum has several options. She could stop any new Chinese auto FDI into Mexico, which would be a significant bargaining chip to the U.S. and Canada for the USMCA renewal. Given what we have seen thus far, that will not be enough.

Sheinbaum on the U.S.-Mexico water dispute
Mexico’s trade relationship with China could be on the bargaining table as the Sheinbaum administration negotiates with the U.S. on tariffs. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)

So should she stop any and all Chinese-made imports from coming into the country, even if they are GM cars? That would be viewed very positively in the USMCA discussions, but it would also deny Mexican consumers access to low-cost, high-quality and increasingly electric Chinese-made cars. Given Trump’s desire to put tariffs on all cars not made in the USA (including those made in Mexico), perhaps her administration can avoid tariffs on Mexican-made cars by stopping all Chinese imports — but is that really a best case scenario for Mexico? Talk about a conundrum.

Dunne thinks Mexico could offer a quota to limit the percentage of domestic car sales allowed to come from China tariff-free to appease USMCA negotiators. Anything above that quota could be subject to higher levels of tariffs. This approach might allow Mexican negotiators to walk the tightrope of avoiding tariffs from the U.S. while still allowing a limited number of Chinese cars into the country.

These types of policy changes might help Mexico keep what it has in terms of current production, but clearly does not bode well for future growth and FDI in Mexico’s auto industry. Adding in the threat of robotics and rapidly advancing artificial intelligence on the factory floor, it’s possible the auto industry will no longer be a job creator in the future and actually might need less labor. Dunne says he has never seen anything like what is happening in the auto industry today; the situation is more dynamic, fast-paced, uncertain and unpredictable than at any other time in his career.

Perhaps President Sheinbaum’s plan to have a locally-produced Mexican electric car called the “Olinia” isn’t such a crazy idea after all.

What do you think Claudia should do? Let us know in the comments!

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.

Why I still love Los Cabos

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Sunset over the ocean in Cabo San Lucas with sailboats in the water
Writer Chris Sands has watched his adopted home of Los Cabos go through many changes since he arrived 15 years ago. Despite this, it remains a place as magical as it ever was. (Oasissamuel/Shutterstock)

Los Cabos is a very different place now than the one I first fell in love with. When I came on a monthlong vacation in 2010 and never left, it was because of several magical moments — sunset sails aboard antique ships as the sun sank behind Land’s End, dirt roads leading to hidden hot springs above deserted beaches, humpback whales breaching majestically, Champagne pool parties at Nikki Beach — that convinced me this place was like no other on Earth. 

I wasn’t close to being the first to come to this conclusion. Many of the first people I met were Americans, Canadians and Chilangos who had been residents, or at least seasonal residents, since the 1970s (or even before). The Los Cabos they originally experienced was even wilder and more unspoiled than the one with which I was captivated. 

A view of the Los Cabos marina, surrounded by palm trees with condos in the background
In the last decade, Cabos’ populations and tourist visits have exploded, sending Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo from towns to cities practically overnight. (Shutterstock)

They had already seen profound changes, but nothing like what was coming. Between 2010 and 2020, the population of Cabo San Lucas more than tripled, growing from 68,463 to 202,694. The Los Cabos municipality has exploded: Its population increased by more than 50% between 2010 and 2025, with the number of tourists growing by about 300%.

Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo went from towns to cities in the blink of an eye. Along with city size, they soon acquired city problems, starting with housing issues and outdated roads teeming with traffic. Many of the ocean views that used to be ubiquitous started disappearing behind the new resorts and other buildings being built. That trend continues, by the way. Construction is distressingly constant.

Despite these transformative and, from my perspective, not exactly welcome changes, I still love Los Cabos and can’t imagine living anywhere else. Here are a few reasons why.

Wow-factor moments still happen all the time

Los Cabos is unique geographically. Bounded by two major bodies of water — the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean — it also boasts a variety of land-based terrains, from desert and mountains to beaches and palm-tree-filled oases.

Los Cabos beach at sunset
Despite the changes Cabos has gone through, there are still plenty of magical moments still to be found across the cape. (Kurt Nichols/Shutterstock)

The upshot is that hardly a day goes by that I’m not in awe of something. Sometimes it’s a sight I’ve seen before, like a 40-foot-tall Cardón cactus, whales breaching, or whale sharks swimming just below the surface. Other times, it’s just the magnificence of the views from places like Cerro del Vigía, Cerro de la Zeta, or the Mirador Santiago de Yola. Or being on the road with the ocean on one side and mountains on the other. 

Seeing the sun come up from El Vigía never fails to inspire, nor does watching the sun set over Land’s End. You can experience the latter at a few restaurants — notably, Manta and Sunset Monalisa — but it’s even better on the water, preferably on a sailboat. When I first got to Los Cabos, I worked briefly for the Sunderland, a 1885 gaff-rigged schooner. That was a boat on which to watch a sunset … until it sank, anyway. 

Marlin fishing put Los Cabos on the map. However, there’s wildlife of all kinds here. Yes, that categorization includes a few residents, but despite their occasional quirks and colorful eccentricities, they are great neighbors. So are the whales, sharks, sea turtles, sea lions, and the bewildering abundance of fish. 

Look up and you’ll see frigate birds, turkey buzzards and the occasional hawk. Wander around on land and you’re bound to encounter lizards, scorpions, road runners and who knows what else … small deer if you climb into the Sierra de la Laguna, free-range Chinampo cattle in the foothills. 

Los Cabos isn’t one place, it’s many

It’s hard to get bored in Los Cabos when you have so many day trip options … including in the neighboring municipality of La Paz. Several amazing destinations — Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, of course, but also La Paz, Todos Santos, Cabo Pulmo, Los Barriles, and El Triunfo — are two hours or less away by car. 

Each of these places has its distinct charms and attractions. La Paz, the state capital, is home to arts, culture, some dining and drinking options worth driving for, a three-mile-long malecón, and some of the most spectacular beaches in Mexico. Todos Santos has the best boutique hotels in Baja, Cabo Pulmo has some of the best diving in North America, and the old mining town of El Triunfo is also worth visiting for its festivals and museums, and for the winding, picturesque roads through the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna that it takes to get there. 

That’s not even mentioning Santiago, El Pescadero, or Los Cerritos — the latter home to a Pacific Coast beach where I’ve spent many an enjoyable day … you get the picture. There’s a lot to do here, and a lot of amazing places, including a few I didn’t mention. 

You don’t have to be a tourist to enjoy world-class amenities

The upside of all the development in recent years is a host of incredible dining destinations. When I moved to Los Cabos 15 years ago, the idea that its restaurants would one day be recognized by the Michelin Guide was laughable. No disrespect is intended to El Pollo de Oro or El Torito, two places I used to eat at all the time and still occasionally do. The food is great at both, and many other old-school haunts.

While there are fine dining choices in Cabos at resorts targeted at tourists, a wealth of farm-to-table and fine dining options aimed at residents have developed here over the years as well. (Los Cabos Tourism Board)

But the options are now vastly expanded, and that goes not just for eateries, but also for spas, swimming pools, and golf courses. Los Cabos locals love a good day-pass option, and with good reason: There are more great hotels here than you can shake a stick at. Spending a day poolside at any of them is always fun, as is the chance to enjoy food at 13 Michelin Guide-recognized restaurants.

We likely have too many golf courses, considering Baja California Sur simultaneously has more coastline and less fresh water than any other state in Mexico. But we have 18 and counting, many of which feature world-class layouts from big names like Jack Nicklaus or Tiger Woods, and at least three of which have been rated among the top 100 in the world. If you love to play, which I do, these are pretty sweet amenities … and yet another in a long list of reasons to love Los Cabos.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

The remittance tax in the United States: A bad, cruel idea

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Donald Trump
A new U.S. tax on foreign remittances looks set to target some of the most vulnerable communities in Mexico. Sarah DeVries asks why. (Council on Foreign Relations)

It costs a lot of money to not have a lot of money.

In fact, I’d say one of the ways that the rich stay rich is by charging everyone else as much as they possibly can while paying as little as they can. One way this can happen is through interest on credit, often needed these days even for the bare essentials. It also happens through late fees, payday loans and cash checking centers. In the United States, even the cap on social security taxes allows the rich to simply stop paying it after their income reaches a certain point. Plenty of other US tax policies allow wealth to stay concentrated, too.

Dollars
(Giorgio Trovato/Unsplash)

Take me. Now, I don’t consider myself poor — not in Mexico, anyway. But around this time last year, I lost my “main” job. Odd jobs — and writing for this publication — kept me afloat somewhat with the essentials that had to be paid in cash. But for everything else, I used my credit cards. Luckily, I have US cards and pretty good credit, so especially compared to Mexico, interest rates I paid and still pay were and are fairly low.

Still, it’s been rough, and I’m in a hole that’s going to take me a while to dig myself out of. My cards are getting dangerously close to being maxed out. And though I make at least the minimum payments faithfully every month and have never missed a payment, my previously “excellent” credit is now simply “average.”

Add to that “processing fees” from services like Paypal and Stripe — employers often determine how one can get paid — and you’ve got a smaller chunk of change already, even before paying self-employment taxes. Nickled and dimed, indeed.

Luckily, I have what I think and hope will be a steady job for the foreseeable future, with better pay that I’m used to. Even so, it’s going to take sucking in my gut for the rest of the year to get out from under this mountain of debt, and a not-insignificant portion of my payments now are simply interest charges.

All this is to say that I know from very personal experience what a difference a five percent tax on remittances, like the kind proposed by the Trump administration in the U.S.,  could make on working people just trying to send money home. With prices ever-increasing and all our economic futures uncertain, every dollar or peso truly does count.

This is a situation that many people find themselves in all over the world. Salaries and wages have not kept up with inflation or the cost of living on either side of the border. Mexico is at least working on raising the minimum wage. But in the States, there are, sadly, many accounts of people working full-time jobs and living in their cars or in shelters. It’s just really hard to keep up for lots and lots of people.

Many communities in Mexico, particularly in the impoverished south of the country, are dependent on remittances from the United States. (Cuartoscuro)

Many of those hard-working people up north are immigrants. Many keep for themselves the bare minimum for survival, preferring to send the rest to family back home. Relatives back home, meanwhile, count on that money to get by; often, entire families do. And though not all workers have legal status, they do pay US taxes.

The proposed tax on remittances is deeply unfair, but it is also deeply unsurprising. After all, the overall policy of the new presidential administration seems to be a sort of reverse Robin Hood: take from the poor to give to the rich. As they work at figuring out how to pay for a gigantic tax break for the wealthy, they’re cutting off money for everyone else wherever they can. Essential social services are dwindling, even when they weren’t all that strong to begin with. Even people who thought they were safe are feeling this wealth transfer.

Programs that provided not only services but jobs are disappearing, no matter what contracts say. Major services are being decimated, stable jobs replaced with an overworked few, plus AI. My father is terrified he’ll stop getting his social security. Hopefully that won’t happen. But if a problem arises, who will be staffing the offices that might be able to help him?

Cutting services isn’t the only way the Trump administration is looking to pay for this tax cut, though. The world has been watching in horror as he’s levied nonsensical tariffs on allies and enemies alike, ignoring all previous agreements.

There’s a new Baby Godzilla in town, and the tantrum is in full swing.

We know that Trump considers tariffs a “great deal” for the U.S. But even more money is needed to fund that tax cut, and we are definitely not asking Jeff Bezos or Elon Musk to pay it.

So who can we charge beyond all the people we’re already charging? One of the political right’s favorite boogeymen, of course: the immigrant.

Because it’s not enough that they’re already living in even more precarious situations than citizen workers are, especially with ICE now running around like the Gestapo. They need to be punished for having dared to enter the country in the first place. This goes for legal immigrants, too. “Everything you get to do here is a privilege, not a right,” the message seems to be.

In a perfect world, remittances would not be necessary. Everyone would be able to make the amount of money they need for them and their families to survive and thrive wherever they wished to live.

But that is not our world, and many families’ survival depend on that money sent back home. Let’s at least not pile on the cruelty.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

The MND News Quiz of the week: May 24th

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News quiz
(Mexico News Daily)

What's been going on in the news this week? Our weekly quiz is here to keep you on top of what’s happening in Mexico.

Get informed, stay smart.

Are you ready?  Let’s see where you rank vs. our expert community!

Which film festival is returning to Mexico City this week?

Which Mexican archeological site has allowed tourists to climb a pyramid for the first time since 2020?

Which European capital announced direct flights to Cancun?

Interior Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez invited which head of state to Mexico this week?

What was the name of the Mexican Navy vessel that struck the Brooklyn Bridge last weekend?

Due to rising violence in the city of Culiacán, what was evacuated from the Sinaloan capital?

Sony Pictures this week announced a new historic TV series based on which Mexican regent?

Isaac del Toro became the first Mexican to lead which cycling race this week?

A Mexican man deported from the United States earlier this week was sent to which country?

Mexico City's 24-hour Mercado Jamaica specializes in the sale of what?

Sheinbaum responds to US border militarization: Friday’s mañanera recapped

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President Sheinbaum smiles at her morning press conference
Border militarization, the correct response to narco violence and Vicente Fox's take on judicial reform were topics of discussion at President Sheinbaum's Friday press conference. (Presidencia)

The military build-up on the United States’ southern border, a controversial comment by a Michoacán mayor and a former president’s opposition to the upcoming judicial elections were among the issues President Claudia Sheinbaum spoke about at her Friday morning press conference.

Here is a recap of the president’s May 23 mañanera.

Sheinbaum responds to United States’ militarization of its southern border 

A reporter asked Sheinbaum about a United States Embassy social media post in which it said that the U.S. government “has designated certain areas of the southern border of the United States as areas of national defense.”

In keeping with that, the U.S. Northern Command said on Thursday that “1,115 service members were approved to deploy to the Southern Border” as part of the U.S. Department of Defense’s “continued whole-of-government approach to gain full operational control of the southern border.”

Thousands of active-duty U.S. troops have already been deployed to the United States’ border with Mexico as U.S. President Donald Trump seeks to stop the entry of drugs, and migrants between official ports of entry.

Sheinbaum said on Friday that the United States has “the right to do in their country what they determine.”

US deploys over 1,000 additional troops to border with Mexico

“We also have the right to say we don’t agree,” she added.

Sheinbaum went on to say that “from the first moment” that the United States “increased the military presence on the southern border of their country, we sent a note.”

She was referring to a diplomatic note her government sent to its U.S. counterpart in April after United States Secretary of the Interior Doug Burgum announced “the emergency withdrawal and transfer” to the U.S. Army “of administrative jurisdiction over approximately 109,651 acres of federal land along the U.S.-Mexico border.”

In that note, Sheinbaum said on April 16, the Mexican government acknowledged that what the U.S. does “in its own territory” is “a decision for them,” but also expressed its expectation that U.S. military actions wouldn’t “cross the border” and that there would continue to be “the same collaboration there has been until now in security matters.”

On Friday, the president said the diplomatic note set out that Mexico respects what the United States does “in their country,” but also advised the U.S. to “always remember territorial sovereignty.”

She has said on repeated occasions that Mexico will never accept any kind of U.S. intervention in Mexican territory.

A full moon rises over the Mexico-U.S. border wall
Sheinbaum cautioned the U.S. against letting military activity along the international border cross into Mexican territory. (Omar Martínez/Cuartoscuro)

On Friday, Sheinbaum stressed that “people don’t migrate for pleasure,” but rather out of “necessity.”

“We’re always going to say that the best way to address migration is with cooperation for development, supporting the communities from which people migrate out of need,” she said.

“… That will always be our position … but they’ve taken the decision to put more military presence on their border to avoid migration. We believe that the orientation should be different,” Sheinbaum said.

Mayor who called for police to use lethal force against armed criminals is ‘wrong,’ says Sheinbaum 

A reporter asked the president her opinion on a declaration by the mayor of Uruapan, Michoacán, that municipal police should “shoot down” armed criminals.

Mayor Carlos Manzo made the declaration this week after a municipal employee, identified as Adriana Cerca, was shot dead outside a school in Uruapan.

“If you see they are shooting, you have to shoot them down. If they are attacking citizens, you have to shoot them down. No consideration should be given to these scum of society,” Manzo said.

Sheinbaum said that the mayor is “wrong” to hold such a view.

“Rule of law,” she said.

“In other words, for a person who commits a crime there is an accusatory criminal system in Mexico. What there has to be is an investigation or an arrest in flagrante, and evidence to determine whether a person is guilty or not,” Sheinbaum said.

The president said that what the mayor had proposed was to “go back to the war against the narco,” a reference to the militarized fight against drug cartels initiated by former president Felipe Calderón shortly after he took office in 2006.

“That had a cost and continues to have a very high cost in our country,” Sheinbaum said.

The president has pledged that her government won’t pursue the kind of militarized “war” against cartels that Calderón undertook, but her administration has ramped up enforcement against criminal organizations, leading to speculation that it has abandoned the “not bullets” part of the “hugs, not bullet” security strategy of Andrés Manuel López Obrador.

Sheinbaum: People have the right to protest, rather than vote, on June 1

A reporter noted that former president Vicente Fox has called on Mexicans to not vote in the judicial elections on June 1, but rather protest.

On social media in recent days, Fox has railed against the judicial elections and the 2024 judicial reform on repeated occasions.

“My entire life I’ve called [on people] to vote but on June 1 you won’t be exercising your vote, you’ll be legitimizing a farce,” he wrote in one post to X.

Fox, president between 2000 and 2006, said in another post that “the judicial reform is an authentic rotten apple.”

“Don’t bite it, don’t bite the hook,” he wrote.

In yet another post earlier this week, Fox wrote:

“The election of judges by popular vote places at risk judicial independence and the transparency of the system. We will not allow justice to be politicized and become an extension of political interests.”In response, Sheinbaum said that “Mexico is free” and people “can exercise their right to protest.”

“They can call on people to ‘not vote.’ That’s their right,” she said.

“… What do we call [on people to do]? To vote, to freely exercise the right to vote, that’s what we’re calling for,” Sheinbaum said.

She said that on June 2 last year, the Mexican people didn’t just vote to elect a female president, but also for “constitutional changes.”

“… That was our slogan throughout the entire campaign, there is no surprise. The people decided that the profound transformation of our country should continue. And the people will come out and vote [on June 1],” Sheinbaum said.

The president argues that the elections are necessary to rid the judiciary of ills such as corruption and nepotism.

There are a range of concerns about the popular election of judges, including that the ruling Morena party will attempt to stack the courts with judges sympathetic to their cause.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

Mexican photographer Graciela Iturbide wins Spain’s Princess of Asturias Arts Award

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A portrait of Gabriela Iturbide
In her long artistic career, Iturbide documented scenes of everyday life in Mexico with a "profound, respectful and evocative gaze.” (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)

Mexican photographer Graciela Iturbide, renowned for her haunting black-and-white images that bridge documentary realism and poetic symbolism, has been awarded the 2025 Princess of Asturias Award for the Arts.

The prestigious honor recognizes her five-decade career capturing Mexico’s cultural essence and global human experiences through a lens that jurors called “a profound, respectful and evocative gaze.”

Iturbide, 83, learned of the award Friday in a predawn call to her Mexico City home. “I’m very happy and very pleased for photography in Mexico,” she told the newspaper El Universal, emphasizing that the win celebrates all of the country’s “incredible” photographers.

Despite the accolade, she kept to her routine on Friday: finalizing images for a book and hosting friends for lunch.

“Nothing special. That’s how I celebrate,” said Iturbide, who also won the prestigious William Klein Prize from the French Academy of Fine Arts two years ago.

Her new award is one of eight bestowed annually for the past 45 years by the Princess of Asturias Foundation, a nonprofit based in Spain. The awards recognize outstanding achievements in artistic, scientific, technical, cultural, social and humanitarian fields at an international level.

Graciela Iturbide has won international acclaim for her evocative documentary photography. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)

In recent years, recipients of the Arts award have included American actress Meryl Streep, Spanish singer Carmen Linares, Serbian performance artist Marina Abramović, Spanish dancer María Pagés, Italian musician Ennio Morricone, American composer John Williams, British theater director Peter Brook, American filmmaker Martin Scorsese and South African artist William Kentridge.

The awards will be presented in October at a ceremony in Oviedo, the capital of the Principality of Asturias, an autonomous community and historic region in northwest Spain. Spain’s King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia will present the awards at the 133-year-old Campoamor Theatre, with 19-year-old Princess Leonor presiding.

Jurors praised Iturbide’s “innovative perspective” and “hypnotic world” blending harsh realities with “spontaneous magic.”

Born in 1942, Iturbide abandoned film studies in 1969 to train with her photography mentor Manuel Álvarez Bravo, becoming his assistant. The Mexican, who died at 100 in 2002, was one of the most important figures in 20th century Latin American photography.

Iturbide went on to take photographs in many countries — including in Cuba, Germany, India, Madagascar, Hungary, France and the U.S. — but has always remained deeply rooted in Mexico’s cultural landscape.

A late 1970s project documenting Mexico’s Seri and Juchitán communities in the Sonoran desert yielded her seminal 1989 book “Juchitán de las Mujeres,” showcasing matriarchal Zapotec life.

An open book of photographs
Iturbide documented life in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in her celebrated book, “Juchitán de las Mujeres.” (Toluca Ediciones)

She is also recognized for her series depicting Frida Kahlo’s bathroom, shot 20 years ago at the Casa Azul (Frida Kahlo Museum) in Coyoacán. Some of her photos of Kahlo’s prosthetic leg, corsets and other medical objects (needed after she suffered traumatic injuries in a 1925 bus-streetcar collision) were shown in the 2023 exhibit “Kahlo Without Borders.”

Exhibitions at the Centre George Pompidou in Paris, San Francisco’s Museum of Modern Art and the Hokkaido Museum of Photography in Japan cemented her global stature.

“Photography is a ritual,” Iturbide said. “To photograph the most mythological aspects of people, then step into darkness to develop, to select the most symbolic images.”

The jury highlighted her “transcendental vision” of landscapes and objects, noting her evolution from portraiture to capturing “the primitive and contemporary” alike.

The Asturias Foundation called her oeuvre “essential for understanding Latin American photography,” a sentiment echoed by art critic Aline Ordaz.

“Her images aren’t just seen — they’re felt,” Ordaz wrote, citing their power to spark dialogue on “identity, gender, and resilience.”

Iturbide’s nomination was submitted by Spain’s ambassador to Mexico, Juan Duarte Cuadrado. She was selected unanimously from 49 candidates across 19 nations. The arts prize includes 50,000 euros (962,000 pesos) and a “trophy” designed by the late Spanish abstract artist Joan Miró.

Other 2025 Princess of Asturias awards announced so far are the Communications and Humanities Award to South Korean-born philosopher Byung-Chul Han, the Literature Award to Spanish novelist and playwright Eduardo Mendoza, and the Social Sciences Award to the Princeton University sociologist and demographer Douglas Massey.

The categories yet to be announced are Sports, International Cooperation, Concordia (issues of humanity, peace and progress), and Scientific and Technical Research.

With reports from EFE, El Debate and El Universal

Any remittance tax is ‘absolutely unjust,’ Sheinbaum says, after US House lowers proposed tax to 3.5%

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Clients wait in line at Western Union, a popular money transfer service.
Remittances are a lifeline for millions of Mexican families. (Archive)

The U.S. House of Representatives on Thursday passed legislation that would impose a 3.5% remittance tax on funds sent abroad by individuals who are not U.S. citizens, disappointing some Mexican officials.

Whereas Mexico’s Ambassador to the U.S. Esteban Moctezuma celebrated the reduction of the tax from the initial proposal of 5%, Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum has said that any tax is unacceptable, arguing that such a measure would violate treaties prohibiting double taxation.

On Friday, Sheinbaum called for the creation of a permanent binational panel to address issues of fiscal fairness and economic sovereignty.

The proposal — part of a broader fiscal package sponsored by U.S. President Donald Trump — now moves to the U.S. Senate, where Republican leaders hope to secure final approval before July 4.

Remittances are funds sent by migrants to friends and families in their home countries. Mexico received US $64.7 billion in remittances last year, a 2.3% increase over 2023 and the 11th consecutive year of growth.

Remittances are the largest single source of foreign income for Mexico — the world’s second-largest recipient of remittances after India — and last year’s total represented roughly 4.5% of GDP, according to the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS).

The Mexican Institute of Finance Executives (IMEF) said a tax would “negatively impact the state-level GDP in regions heavily reliant on remittances.”

According to CSIS, remittances provide “supplemental income for Mexican households [and] a stable flow of developmental finance to the poorest subregions of the country.”

As of 2022, the average remittance transaction sent to Mexico amounted to approximately US $390. CSIS said that, considering Mexico’s average monthly salary is roughly 6,150 pesos (US $297), such transactions can contribute a sizable portion — or even the entirety — of a family’s income.

“This income is particularly essential for the nearly 60% of Mexicans engaged in informal labor who often lack employment stability and safety nets to ensure consistent income,” the CSIS said.

A map of remittances sent to Mexico by region, from 2020-2023.
Remittances play a crucial role in regional economies, especially in states with a long migration tradition. (CSIS)

News of the proposed tax prompted Mexico’s Foreign Affairs Ministry to issue a statement on May 16 saying it would “pursue the strongest political and legal defense” against the proposed remittance tax.

Foreign Affairs Minister Juan Ramón de la Fuente said the proposed tax on remittances “has no justification and we disagree with it.” De la Fuente said the bill targets people who have already paid taxes and who contribute significantly to the U.S. economy.

“[The] remittances represent only 18% of all income earned by our compatriots, with the remainder staying in the United States,” he said.

Mexican lawmakers traveled to Washington, D.C., to lobby for the elimination of the tax. They argued that the measure was essentially double taxation, since immigrants are already required to pay U.S. income taxes regardless of their immigration status

With reports from El Universal, Infobae and El Economista