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New statues on Paseo de la Reforma honor six Indigenous women

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Paseo de las Heroinas
Mexico City's Paseo de las Heroinas honors important women in Mexican history with statues. (Instagram)

From the towering Angel of Independence, where the remains of Mexico’s founding heroes rest, to the anti-monuments erected by social movements, the statues and markers along Mexico City’s Paseo de la Reforma both commemorate the nation’s long history and show how different parts of society dispute the meaning of that history or fight to make their voices heard in its telling.

When we watch Women’s Day marchers paint the metal barriers around the Caballito statue or relatives of victims of forced disappearance turn the Glorieta del Ahuehuete roundabout into the Glorieta de las y los Desaparecidos, we’re seeing disputes over the nation’s collective story. In that sense, President Claudia Sheinbaum’s unveiling of six new statues of historical figures on Reforma, all Indigenous women, is a highly symbolic intervention by the state — especially since one of the figures commemorated has for generations been a synonym for treason to the country.

 

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The president said as much at the unveiling ceremony on Wednesday morning, calling the new monuments “a firm symbol against racism, classism and misogyny.” The new statues form part of the existing Paseo de las Heroinas (Promenade of the Heroines), a sculpture walk established during Sheinbaum’s tenure as Mexico City’s head of government, which introduced statues of female heroes of the country’s history onto Reforma for the first time. So who are the six Indigenous women joining the Paseo de las Heroinas?

Malintzin: The interpreter, revisited

Malinche
Long represented as a traitor, Malintzin is now looked at differently by historians. (Public Domain)

The strange group of foreigners to whom she was given as a slave in 1519 called her Marina, to which the Mexica (Aztecs) added the honorific “-tzin,” making her Malintzin, which the Castillians turned back into Spanish as Malinche. In Mexico, that name means everything from a preference for European trends to outright treason.

In another time, Malintzin’s inclusion in the Paseo de las Heroinas might have been highly controversial. But artists and scholars of Mexican colonial history have done much in recent years to rehabilitate her image from that of a traitor to that of a gifted polyglot and enslaved woman who did what she could to survive in a world turned upside down. President Sheinbaum’s own government staged Mujeres del Maíz at the end of 2025 to “revalorize, recognize and vindicate Malintzin in a different way,” in the president’s words.

Tz’akbu Ajaw: The Red Queen of Palenque

Red Queen of Palenque
The Red Queen of Palenque is best known for her extraordinary funeral mask. (ProtoplasmaKid/Wikimedia Commons)

In 1994, 24-year-old archaeologist Fanny López was helping to stabilize Temple XIII of Palenque, one of the most important city-states of the Classic Maya period, located in modern-day Chiapas. Palenque had been famous for decades as the site where the fabulous tomb of Pakal the Great, lord of Palenque and the fifth-longest-reigning monarch in world history, had been found in 1952.

López discovered that Temple XIII held a tomb too, and as the Chiapas native and her team slid back the lid of its sarcophagus, their eyes met something incredible: the remains of a woman wearing an enormous malachite mask, surrounded by treasures and covered entirely in crimson cinnabar dust. Clearly, this woman had been important and had some relationship to Pakal, but there were no glyphs to tell for certain who she was. Was she the king’s mother? His grandmother? The answer has not yet been definitively proven, but most specialists now believe that the noblewoman, who has come to be called the Red Queen for how she was buried, was Ix Tz’akbu Ajaw, Pakal the Great’s wife.

Much is still unknown about the Red Queen’s life. Born around A.D. 610 into the royal family of Uhx Te’ K’uh, a Maya city in present-day Tabasco state, Lady Tz’akbu Ajaw married Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal as a teenager. Their two sons would both succeed their father and rule Palenque, showing the truth of Tz’akbu’s name, which means “Queen of Countless Generations.”

Pakal earned the sobriquet of “the Great” by leading Palenque out of a period of political turmoil and into its period of greatest wealth and splendor through an ambitious program of public works. Tz’akbu Ajaw’s name and titles feature prominently on the monuments of her husband’s time, suggesting an important role in Palenque’s public life.  

Tecuichpo: Last empress of the Mexica

Tecuichpo
Tecuichpo Ixcaxochitzin was her original first name, which translates from ancient Náhuatl to “Divine Lady” and “Cotton Flower,” respectively. (ProtoplasmaKid/Wikimedia Commons)

When she died in 1551, Isabel Moctezuma was the richest woman in the colony of New Spain, holding extensive tracts of land and Indigenous slaves. This is not only remarkable because she was an Indigenous woman, but because she certainly died poorer than she was born: Isabel, also called Tecuichpo, was born Tecuichpoch-Ixcaxochitzin. Her parents were Moctezuma II, the Mexica king who ruled over most of Mexico and was overthrown by the Spanish, and Teotlalco, a princess of the city of Ecatepec. 

Despite being a woman living in a world rocked by colonial invasion, Tecuichpo exercised what agency she had as an important noblewoman. First wed as a child to her father’s general, Atlixcatzin, Tecuichpo married Cuitlahuac and then Cuahtemoc, Moctezuma’s successors as leaders of the Triple Alliance, before being wed to a series of Spanish conquistadors.

In the Americas, Spanish colonialism was most effective wherever it came up against a settled, stratified society whose ruling class it could decapitate and replace, which meant that cooperative Indigenous nobles were key in setting up the new colonial order. After accepting Christian baptism and a new name, Doña Isabel was recognized as her father’s legitimate heir, a status she used to recover some of Moctezuma’s possessions through the Spanish courts. As royally certified nobility, Isabel’s descendants among Europe’s aristocracy, including the current dukes of Alba and Segorbe in Spain, continue her father’s line today.

Ñuñuu Dzico Yecu: Shield of Jaltepec 

Six Monkey
Known by many names, from Ñuñuu Dzico Yecu to Six Monkey and War Quechquemitl, she’s remembered as a Mexican heroine. (INAH)

The Ñuu Savi, better known as the Mixtecs, are one of Mexico’s largest Indigenous groups today. The Mixtec peoples never unified as a single empire; they were traditionally divided into competing kingdoms called ñuu. That competition was to mark the life of Lady Six Monkey, named for the day of her birth and born into the ruling family of the city of Jaltepec in the late 11th century. Her early years took place in the context of bloody struggle with Jaltepec’s rival kingdom of Tilantongo, and as a teenager, she became engaged to the ruler of the city of Huachino. When noble vassals of Huachino opposed the match and publicly insulted her, Six Monkey went on the offensive, leading troops against the rebels, capturing their cities and taking them back to Huachino for ritual execution. Her campaign — a striking example of the gender equality that could be found among Mixtec elites — was a total success, and Six Monkey took the name War Quechquemitl, for the garment she wore from then on, decorated with symbols of war.

The second part of Lady Six Monkey-War Quechquemitl’s life was shaped by her conflict with the man who would become one of the most powerful rulers in Mixtec history: Lord Eight Deer Jaguar Claw, king of Tututepec. A member of the ruling family of Tilantongo, Eight Deer had forged a huge sphere of influence in Oaxaca by the turn of the 12th century and had long nursed a grudge against Jaltepec and Huachino.

Seeking to stop Eight Deer’s rise, Six Monkey had his brother assassinated in 1100 and moved to crush her rival in open warfare. She lost, and Huachino was destroyed, while Six Monkey and her husband were captured and executed by Eight Deer. But the queen got some measure of revenge in the end: Six Monkey’s son Four Wind was taken by Eight Deer as a hostage, raised in his court and eventually installed as the puppet ruler of Jaltepec. Four Wind never forgot what Eight Deer had done to his mother: As a grown man, he led a rebellion against Eight Deer, executing the great lord and marrying his daughter so that the three cities were finally united as Six Monkey had dreamed of. 

Xiuhtzaltzin: First queen of the Toltecs

Xiuhtzaltzin
Xiuhtzaltzin, queen of the Toltecs, ruled alongside Mitl, her husband, the king. (Facebook)

The fall of the great city of Teotihuacán marked the beginning of Mesoamerica’s Postclassic period, and one of the cities that came to fill the space left behind was Tollan, in what is now Tula, Hidalgo. Tollan’s inhabitants, the Toltecs, left no written records, so much of the information we have on them comes through the oral histories of the Mexica — whose civilization rose centuries after Tollan’s fall and who may have called all great builder cultures Toltecs — as viewed through the lens of Spanish chroniclers. That means that taking narratives about the Toltecs at face value can be tricky, but the exceptional circumstances of the reign of Xiuhtzaltzin might point to her actually having existed. 

Only men could succeed to the throne of Tollan, and Xiuhtzaltzin’s husband was Mitl, the 11th king of the city. When Mitl died, the throne should have passed to their son. But Xiuhtzaltzin was so beloved by the Toltecs, tradition says, that her son declared that he would rather be his mother’s vassal than her successor, and so Xiuhtzaltzin became the only woman ever to rule Tollan. If Xiuhtzaltzin’s face looks familiar to you, that’s not by coincidence: 2025 was declared the Year of the Indigenous Woman by the federal government, and the steely-eyed woman in a huipil and earrings who appeared on the government’s official letterhead for all of last year is a representation of Xiuhtzaltzin herself.

Eréndira: Warrior princess of the Purépechas

Eréndira
Eréndira, as represented in the famous mural by Juan O’Gorman. (Radhee/Wikimedia Commons)

When the Spanish arrived in Mexico in 1519, the Mexica were the great power in the country’s Central Highlands; second after them were the neighboring Purépecha, who ruled much of Western Mexico. The Purépecha polity had its seat in Tzintzuntzán, Michoacán, and its last king was Tangaxuan II. Not believing that he could resist the Spanish, Tangaxuan accepted baptism and chose to become a vassal of the invaders when they reached his domains in 1522. Though they looted his city anyway, the Spanish allowed him to continue ruling until 1530, when the infamous conquistador Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán tortured and burned him at the stake. 

Legend tells that Tangaxuan’s daughter Eréndira, infuriated by her father’s weakness in the face of the Spanish, took it upon herself to lead the Purépecha resistance. Part of her story revolves around Eréndira becoming the first Indigenous person to learn to ride a horse, and the figure of the princess on a white horse leading Indigenous combatants against the Spanish invaders is a powerful symbol of the Purépechas and the state of Michoacán, depicted in artwork like Juan O’Gorman’s famous mural at the Gertrudis Bocanegra library in Pátzcuaro.

Was Eréndira real? It’s hard to say. Colonial-era records don’t mention her, although the “Relación de Michoacán,” set down around 1540 by Franciscan friars in the region, does mention women as part of the anti-Spanish resistance. She first appears in collections of Michoacán’s oral stories collected in the early 20th century, but what’s clear is that her story, a tale of the thirst for dignity triumphing over acquiescence, is a much older one. 

Diego Levin is a historical researcher.

A tale of two lost wallets

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Wallet with credit cards
A missing wallet became a lesson in Mexican values for Sarah DeVries. (Emil Kalibradov/Unsplash)

About 17 years ago, when I still lived in Querétaro, my sister came for a visit. I took some money out of my Mexican account and put it, along with my bank card, in a little card-sized wallet.

Before I realized it was truly missing a couple of days later — I was absolutely sure it was in the house somewhere — I got a call. A taxi driver had turned the card and wallet in at a Bancomer branch, and they were holding it for me. 

The wallet and bank card were turned in at the nearest branch, but the cash was not. (Srkgoqpxtbtl/Blogspot)

“And the cash?” I said hopefully. I’d taken out a hefty sum of about 4,000 pesos to spend while my sister was visiting (this was back when the dollar was closer to 10 pesos than to 20).

The guy laughed. 

“Oh no, of course there was no money in there,” he said. “I’m amazed even the card was returned — you should count yourself lucky!”

I went to get my card and tried not to be too sad about the lost money, which at the time represented almost a full quincena (two weeks of pay) for me. Since then, I’ve been much more attentive to my personal belongings.

Lost in a car wash

I recalled this incident last week when I went to get my driver’s license renewed where I live now in Xalapa — a very cold 3.5 hours of standing in line.

As I got closer to the bank clerk-style windows, I noticed that people were swiping their cards to pay the license fees. “Oh good!” I thought. For once, I wouldn’t have to take a sheet of paper, go to the X24 — a convenience store chain similar to OXXO — pay in cash and then return. Score!

X24 store Mexico
A trip to the X24 store to pay for the license renewal wasn’t necessary, but money to pay was. (Facebook)

I felt in my purse for my wallet; I then looked down and did some digging. It was not there. Oh no.

I glanced at the friendly-seeming older guy I’d been chatting with in line behind me. Could he have taken it? A quick study of his non-bulging pockets reassured me he hadn’t — my wallet is pretty big, so at least it would have been noticeable.

The next step was to call my partner, who’d dropped me off and then taken the car for a car wash before taking it for verification — Mexico’s equivalent of getting your car’s annual emissions inspection. 

This was followed by a fruitless search of car verification centers that actually had the requisite sticker for the car to verify said verification — he was all over the place.

“I don’t see it,” was his first response, and my heart plummeted.

“No, wait!” He looked in the back seat and found it sitting there, having gone through a solo car wash with various workers cleaning the car’s interior.

Car wash Mexico
The car had been washed but the wallet was thankfully left untouched. (Facebook)

“Oh no. Check to see if the money’s still there,” I said. 

Miraculously, it was — 2,000 pesos — as were all my bank and credit cards. I kept a close eye on my bank account for any unfamiliar transactions, of which there were none.

Thank you, thank you, honest car wash workers! Heads, I win. It could have been so much worse.

A one-in-a-million miracle

Little did I know that a couple weeks before, a friend had had an even more miraculous wallet rescue.

Hers was 100% higher stakes. She took a bus from Xalapa to TAPO, one of Mexico City’s main bus terminals, and a taxi from TAPO to the Mexico City airport — the one that has more than seven passengers a year.

Once at the airport, she had a terrible realization: Her wallet, where she carried her passport as well, was no longer with her. At first, she thought she’d dropped it somewhere in the airport. With her limited Spanish, she proceeded to find every security worker along the way to ask them if they’d seen it. This took a while.

Mexico City’s TAPO bus station was the site of another unlikely miracle. (Travel Mexico Solo)

Needless to say, she missed her flight.

Later, she figured she must have left it in the taxi. But how would she get back to TAPO with no money? Luckily, she remembered that she’d stashed about US $40 in her backpack, so she exchanged it for pesos and took the Metrobus back to TAPO. Most of those hearing about her plan were not optimistic.

“Your wallet is long gone,” someone told her. “You’ll never get it back.” 

“It would be a miracle,” another said. “Literally a one-in-a-million miracle if you got it back.”

“I have to try,” she kept answering.

Back at TAPO, she approached the window where she’d bought her taxi ticket. She hadn’t looked at the driver’s name, but she remembered the car color: a kind of odd creamy beige. 

TAPO terminal
Back to the TAPO terminal to try to track down a taxi driver, who miracle of miracles, was found and still had the wallet. (Thelmadatter/Wikimedia Commons)

The dispatcher wasn’t sure which driver it was, but she called around to all the different cabs, one by one, until someone was able to tell her which driver it probably was. Success!

And guess what — one-in-a-million. The driver had the wallet! Another car — my friend never really figured out why — returned her wallet to her. And inside was everything: cash, cards, passport, IDs.

Wow, wow, wow!

During all this, she’d gotten on the phone with the airline to explain the situation. 

“You’ll have to pay the difference for a flight tomorrow,” they’d told her. She was looking at a painful US $700 credit card charge.

But guess what: She got to the ticket counter in Mexico City, explained what had happened, and the agent simply printed her another ticket, no charge.

Benito Juarez International Airport
She made her flight after all, thanks to an honest taxi driver in Mexico City. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

A more honest Mexico?

I tell these two anecdotes here because they’re just so freaking heartwarming. Mexico is famous for many positive things, but let’s be honest: Honesty — see what I did there? — is not one of them. For my friend and me, the honesty and integrity of two ordinary working people saved our butts.

Whether people in general are becoming more honest or the stars simply happened to align for us, I do not know.

But boy am I glad we both got to have one less gigantic problem to deal with.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Sheinbaum responds to Trump’s Cuba threat: Friday’s mañanera recapped

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After an update on security in Baja California, President Sheinbaum went into detail about Mexico's response to a new threat from U.S. President Trump against countries — like Mexico— that supply oil to Cuba. (Gabriel Monroy / Presidencia)

President Claudia Sheinbaum held her Friday morning press conference in Tijuana, the largest city in the state of Baja California.

“Today we’re going to finally inaugurate the first stage of the viaduct,” she said at the start of the mañanera.

Sheinbaum said that the second stage of the elevated roadway that will connect the Tijuana International Airport with the Playas de Tijuana borough of the northern border city will open next month.

Homicides declined significantly in Baja California in 2025

Early in the press conference, National Public Security System chief Marcela Figueroa reported that the average daily homicide rate in Baja California declined from 6.5 in 2024 to 4.7 last year, a reduction of 28%.

The daily homicide rate in Baja California in 2025 was the lowest of the past eight years, she said.

Still, Baja California ranked as Mexico’s third most violent state last year in terms of total homicides, with more than 1,700 according to data presented by Figueroa earlier this month.

The National Public Security System director, Marcela Figueroa, said homicides in Baja California declined 28% last year. (Gabriel Monroy / Presidencia)

San Felipe, located on the Gulf of California, ranked as Mexico’s fourth most violent municipality in 2025 based on its per capita homicide rate, according to crime data website elcri.men.

Tecate ranked as the 43rd most violent municipality in the country, while Tijuana ranked 45th, according to elcri.men.

Tijuana recorded more than 1,000 homicides last year, making it Mexico’s most violent city in terms of total murders.

More than 5,000 people arrested in Baja California since Sheinbaum took office 

Between Oct. 1, 2024 — the day Sheinbaum was sworn in — and Jan. 15, a total of 5,509 people were arrested in Baja California for allegedly committing “high-impact” crimes, such as murders and kidnappings, Security Minister Omar García Harfuch reported.

He said that in the same period, authorities seized 1,253 firearms in the state, and confiscated more than 30 tonnes of narcotics, including 242 kilograms of fentanyl.

García Harfuch also said that authorities have dismantled three methamphetamine labs in Baja California during the past 15 months. Since the national strategy against extortion was launched last July, 70 people have been arrested in the state for allegedly committing that crime, he said.

Later in the press conference, García Harfuch said that “a cell of Los Chapitos” — a faction of the Sinaloa Cartel controlled by sons of imprisoned drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán — was to blame for an attack on two Sinaloa state deputies in Culiacán on Wednesday.

Sheinbaum responds to US plan to impose tariffs on countries that supply oil to Cuba 

A reporter asked the president about “this new threat from President Trump” to impose tariffs on countries that send oil to Cuba, which, according to a report by the Financial Times this week, has just “15 to 20 days” of oil left.

The question came a day after Trump issued an executive order declaring a “national emergency” because, the U.S. president claimed, “the policies, practices, and actions of the Government of Cuba constitute an unusual and extraordinary threat … to the national security and foreign policy of the United States.”

 

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The executive order asserted that “Cuba welcomes transnational terrorist groups, such as Hezbollah and Hamas, creating a safe environment for these malign groups so that these transnational terrorist groups can build economic, cultural, and security ties throughout the region and attempt to destabilize the Western Hemisphere, including the United States.”

In his executive order, Trump also said that he had determined that it was “necessary and appropriate to establish a tariff system,” under which “an additional ad valorem duty may be imposed on imports of goods that are products of a foreign country that directly or indirectly sells or otherwise provides any oil to Cuba.”

The executive order, the Associated Press reported, “would primarily put pressure on Mexico, a government that has acted as an oil lifeline for Cuba and has constantly voiced solidarity for the U.S. adversary even as Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum has sought to build a strong relationship with Trump.”

Mexico is the top oil supplier to Cuba, but state oil company Pemex canceled plans to send a shipment of crude to the Communist-run island this month. That move, Sheinbaum said earlier this week, was a “sovereign decision” rather than an act of succumbing to pressure from the United States, which is pressing for regime change in Cuba.

On Friday morning, Sheinbaum thanked the reporter for his question about Trump’s executive order before proceeding to read out a prepared statement.

“Number 1: Mexico unequivocally reaffirms [its commitment to] the principle of sovereignty and free self-determination of peoples, a fundamental pillar of our foreign policy and of international law,” she stated.

“[Number] 2: The application of tariffs on countries that supply oil to Cuba could trigger a humanitarian crisis of great reach, directly affecting hospitals, food supply and other basic services for the Cuban people. [That is a] situation that must be avoided through respect for international law and dialogue between the parties,” said Sheinbaum, who has said that Mexico could mediate talks between the U.S. and Cuban governments.

“[Number] 3: I have instructed the minister of foreign affairs to immediately establish contact with the U.S. Department of State in order to precisely know the reach of the order that was published [by Trump] yesterday, and also to let them know that we have to prevent a humanitarian crisis for the Cuban people,” the president continued.

“And [number] 4: Mexico will seek different options … to help, in a humanitarian way, the people of Cuba, who are going through a difficult time.”

Sheinbaum stressed that her government needs to find out “the reach” of Trump’s executive order because, “we don’t want to put our country at risk in terms of tariffs.”

She also emphasized that “there are other ways to support” the people of Cuba apart from with oil.

The United States is sending food, it’s sending other support,” Sheinbaum noted.

“Mexico will always show solidarity [with Cuba],” she added.

Sheinbaum suggests US could send oil to Cuba

Later in her press conference, Sheinbaum was asked whether Mexico would stop sending oil to Cuba if it meant that the U.S. would impose additional tariffs on Mexican goods.

“We’re going to wait,” the president responded, stressing once again that her government needs greater clarity about the Trump administration’s plans.

She subsequently told reporters that Mexico has only sent a minimal amount of oil to Cuba, although the exact quantities shipped to the Communist-run island in recent times are disputed.

A Pemex storage facility with a Mexican flag
Mexico, via its state oil company Pemex, became the lead supplier of oil to Cuba after oil exports from Venezuela — the island’s previous top supplier — dropped in 2025. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

“Yesterday, the director of Pemex … [said that] what has been sent … is less than 1% of what Mexico produces,” Sheinbaum said, referring to shipments corresponding to contracts between the state oil company and Cuba as well as oil given to the Caribbean island as humanitarian aid.

She went on to say that in Mexico, in Cuba, and in “other places around the world,” refined oil is used to fuel cars, public transport and power plants.

“Let’s imagine there is no electricity. Without electricity, hospitals don’t work, refrigerators don’t work, and a humanitarian situation is created, … a situation that impacts people’s lives,” Sheinbaum said.

“Our interest is that this doesn’t happen with the Cuban people. And I believe it’s not just our interest, the interest of the government, but the interest of all the people of Mexico,” she said.

“And that’s what we want to express to the U.S. government — that it’s very important that there isn’t a situation of humanitarian crisis on the island,” Sheinbaum said.

“So I gave instructions to the Minister of Foreign Affairs [Juan Ramón de la Fuente] to speak about this with the U.S. government, or [to propose] that they send oil [to Cuba]. It’s a matter of support for the Cuban people,” she said.

“Of course, we don’t want to risk there being more tariffs on Mexico, do we? Rather, via diplomatic channels, we simply seek a scheme of dialogue, of communication, that ensures there is not a serious situation for the Cuban people, who are already going through a very difficult situation,” Sheinbaum said.

Trump issued his executive order, titled “Addressing Threats to the United States by the Government of Cuba,” the same day as he spoke to Sheinbaum by telephone.

Sheinbaum reiterated on Friday that she and Trump didn’t discuss Cuba during their 40-minute call.

“We spoke about the Mexico-United States relationship. The issue of Cuba wasn’t discussed,” she said.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies (peter.davies@mexiconewsdaily.com)

Tourism Ministry, seeking to reactivate local tourism, opens new beach access points in Tulum

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Tulum beach
The four new access points, in addition to the seven recently added, will be in Jaguar Park. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro.com)

The Tourism Ministry has confirmed that there will soon be four new public beach access points in Tulum as part of its plan to reactivate tourism in the popular resort destination in the state of Quintana Roo.

Tourism Minister Josefina Rodríguez has been on record declaring that the opening of beaches is a priority of the government’s comprehensive strategy for the Mexican Caribbean.

Josefina Rodriguez
Tourism Minister Josefina Rodríguez has long supported increased beach access for the public living in or visiting Tulum, Quintana Roo. (Alain Hernández/Cuartoscuro.com)

“Beaches are not a privilege, they are a right,” Rodríguez said, emphasizing the goal of diversifying what’s on offer to tourists and reducing the effects of seasonality.

Rodríguez told reporters that a key element of the Tulum Reborn tourism development plan is to guarantee the right to freely enjoy the beaches. The plan was launched in November in response to a decline in tourism which, some critics said, was partly due to restricted access to beaches.

“Tulum currently has seven new public access points, and four more will be added next week,” she said, adding that the new access points are located within Jaguar Park, “a space with top-tier infrastructure that combines conservation, recreation and tourism.”

All the access points feature appropriate signage as well as spaces such as the sports corridor, which allows tourists and residents to enjoy recreational activities in proximity to the sea free of charge.

Rodríguez also said “a permanent dialogue is being maintained with hotel owners” to ensure public access in Tulum’s Hotel Zone. “This is in accordance with federal decrees that establish the right of way when there is not enough public access,” she said.

Additionally, an inter-institutional assessment in conjunction with the Agrarian, Territorial and Urban Development Ministry and the Environment Ministry has been ongoing for more than three months and includes adjustments to federal regulations, as well as land-use planning in coordination with the municipal and Quintana Roo governments.

Similar forums are taking place in Baja California and in destinations such as Acapulco.

Sectur is also conducting a nationwide assessment to identify and establish new public access points to the country’s beaches and is developing a National Registry of these access points.

With reports from Periodismo Objetivo and Reportur 

Looting report leads to discovery of millennium-old Zapotec burial chamber

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Huitzo tomb
The remarkably preserved tomb lies in in the municipality of San Pablo Huitzo in Oaxaca state’s Central Valleys region, former territory of the Zapotec nation. (Secretaría de Cultura/Cuartoscuro)

A 1,400-year-old Zapotec tomb carved into a hillside in the state of Oaxaca is being hailed as Mexico’s “most significant archaeological discovery of the last decade.”

President Claudia Sheinbaum said as much last week when she announced the find at a press conference. A delegation led by Mexico’s Minister of Culture Claudia Curiel de Icaza made a subsequent on-site visit this week.

 

The entrance to an ornate carved stone Zapotec tomb in Hutizo, Oaxaca
The unusually well-preserved tomb is expected to give new insight into the worldview of Zapotec people who lived over a millennium ago. (Gerardo Peña/INAH)

“Stabilization work is underway to open it to the public at the end of the year,” Curiel said. “It is one of the most important findings of Zapotec culture … due to its state of preservation and the information it will provide us about the cosmogony of these peoples.”

“This site is something wonderful,” added Oaxaca Governor Salomón Jara Cruz, who was part of the contingent that was able to go into the tomb. “Finding such beautiful [and ancient] remains is something unique.”

The tomb — dated to about 600 AD and known as Tomb 10 of Huitzo — lies in the newly registered Cerro de la Cantera archaeological site, in the municipality of San Pablo Huitzo. 

It is in the state’s Central Valleys region, former territory of the Zapotec nation, about 35 kilometers northwest of Oaxaca city.

Tomb 10 was discovered last year (no exact date was given) after an anonymous report of looting, which led the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) to start rescue excavations that uncovered the chamber.

According to INAH, the funerary complex belongs to the Late Classic period (600 AD to 900 AD), a time in Mesoamerican history when major city-states flourished and then began to decline.

INAH specialists say the crypt, reached by a shaft, is a stepped-vault chamber made with limestone slabs and gray quarry stone, covered with stucco and measuring about 5.55 meters in length.

One of its most striking features is an owl sculpture over the entrance. In Zapotec cosmology, owls symbolize night and death; its beak covers the stuccoed and painted face of a Zapotec lord, likely an ancestor for whom the tomb was dedicated and who served as an intercessor with the gods.

A lintel above holds a frieze of stone slabs engraved with calendrical names, while the jambs show a man and a woman — who “may have served as guardians of the site” — with headdresses and artifacts in both hands.

hints of paint remain on an ancient mural in a Zapotec tomb in Huitzo, Oaxaca
Hints of color are still visible on the murals and carvings inside the tomb, one of which shows figures carrying bags of copal incense. (Gerardo Peña/INAH)

Inside, sections of mural painting in ocher, white, green, red and blue depict “a procession of figures carrying bags of copal incense and walking toward the entrance.”

Tomb 10 appears linked to the ancient kingdom of Huijazoo, whose capital stood on a nearby hill, Cerro de la Campana. Tomb 5, which was discovered in 1985, is well-documented in scholarly works and the media. 

Given the proximity between Tomb 5 and Tomb 10, INAH considers the area to have been an acropolis contemporary to Monte Albán, the great Zapotec capital of its time.

With reports from El País, El Diario de México and Infobae

Government deploys 1,600 troops to Sinaloa following attack on legislators

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Security forces have arrived en masse in Culiacán and Mazatlán in Sinaloa state in response to an armed attack on two state legislators that left both gravely injured. (José Betanzos Zárate/Cuartoscuro.com)

After an armed attack on two state legislators, the Defense Ministry (Sedena) has deployed 1,600 soldiers to the troubled state of Sinaloa which has been struggling to cope with a civil war between rival factions of one of Mexico’s most powerful drug cartels.

A car in which Representatives Sergio Torres Félix and Elizabeth Montoya were riding was attacked by gunmen around noon Wednesday by unknown assailants who fled the scene before authorities arrived.

army vehicles in Culiacán
The newly deployed troops have established their presence in the state capital, while Representatives Sergio Torres Félix and Elizabeth Montoya remain hospitalized from the attack. (José Betanzos Zárate/Cuartoscuro)

During her Thursday morning press conference, President Claudia Sheinbaum said arrests had been made in connection with the attack. Then on Friday, Security Minister Omar García Harfuch said early investigations indicate that a sub-faction of Los Chapitos — part of the Sinaloa Cartel — are likely responsible for the attack.

Sheinbaum also said she intends to go ahead with a working visit to Sinaloa in early February as planned.

The internecine fighting involving the Sinaloa Cartel began in September 2024, the month before Sheinbaum took office. Ending the persistent violence there has been one of the top priorities of her security strategy, but the results have been far from encouraging

Among the Sedena personnel on the ground in Sinaloa are 90 members of the Army’s Special Forces Corps. The security forces arrived on Thursday via four heavy Air Force transport aircraft and were deployed to the state capital Culiacán and the coastal city of Mazatlán.

The deployment of additional soldiers comes less than a week after hundreds demonstrated in Culiacán to protest the killing of a civilian during a botched military operation. A 24-year-old man was shot while driving in the state capital, apparently in a case of mistaken identity.

The status of the two Citizens Movement lawmakers remains critical but stable. 

Due to the severity of his condition, Torres has been in intensive care, where he is sedated and intubated. Following lengthy surgical procedures, Torres is said to be doing well although the next 72 hours will be crucial.

Montoya lost an eye in the attack after being injured by shrapnel and projectiles. She underwent facial reconstruction surgery and is said to be recovering well.

After visiting the two lawmakers, Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha said Torres’ vital signs are responding well to the trauma after being shot in the head and in the torso. As for Montoya, Rocha said she was conscious and is able to hold a conversation.

Members of the Army, the National Guard and state police officers are deployed around the private clinic where Montoya is hospitalized, and another contingent is on patrol at a focused-care hospital where Torres was transferred to recover from the head injury.

The security forces are also expected to participate in an ongoing search-and-rescue operation looking for 10 mining engineers kidnapped at a site near Concordia, about 83 kilometers (51 miles) northeast of Mazatlán.

With reports from Infobae, La Jornada, El Financiero and El País

Maya Train tickets go on sale in Europe

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The Maya Train speeds through a forest
Thanks to a partnership with the Germany company Flix, Maya Train tickets will soon be on sale in Europe. (Maya Train)

Tickets for the Maya Train will go on sale in Europe starting Feb. 1, thanks to a collaboration with the German transport company Flix

Flix, a German mobility and technology company that operates mainly under the FlixBus and FlixTrain brands, will distribute Maya Train tickets on its website, app and physical stores across Europe.

A map of the Maya Train's route
The Maya Train, which was completed in 2024, runs a 1,554-kilometer loop around the Yucatán Peninsula, connecting the region’s archaeological sites, beaches and cities like Mérida and Cancún. (Ruta Tren Maya)

Until now, the Maya Train only sold tickets in Mexico. With this alliance, it will open its international sales in the European market for the first time.

The Mexican passenger train will now be integrated into Flix’s catalog, which operates in more than 40 countries and connects hundreds of destinations, making it easy to include the Maya Train in international itineraries.

Tourism Minister Josefina Rodríguez Zamora said that the tickets’ availability in Europe will allow foreign travelers to plan their trips further in advance, while helping advertise the train across the pond. She remarked that the addition of the Maya Train to Flix’s network “strengthens the country’s tourism competitiveness by integrating digital tools that simplify the travel experience and bring the destinations of the Maya World closer to a greater number of international visitors.”

With this collaboration, Mexico seeks to reduce logistical barriers by allowing European travelers to plan, book and pay for their rail journeys before arriving in Mexico, just as they would with a bus or train within Europe.

Meanwhile, head of the Maya Train Óscar David Lozano pointed out that the alliance also seeks to redistribute the tourist flow towards local communities to strengthen community tourism.

According to official data by the Tourism Ministry (Sectur), the Maya Train offers 20 daily commercial runs and has transported 2.15 million passengers since it began operations in December 2023. During the recent winter holiday period, it recorded a peak of 9,844 passengers in a single day.

The Maya Train, one of the signature projects of former President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (2018-2024), runs for 1,554 kilometers (966 miles) across five states in southern Mexico: Chiapas, Tabasco, Campeche, Yucatán and Quintana Roo.

 With reports from El Financiero and Lider Mexico

A last-minute surge in exports saved Mexico from recession in 2025

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tomatoes awaiting shipment
Mexico's exports exceeded US $664.8 billion, a 7.6% increase compared to 2024. Despite the Trump tariffs, more than 83% of the exports went to the U.S. market.  (Adolfo Vladimir /Cuartoscuro)

Mexico’s economy avoided a recession in 2025 as gross domestic product (GDP) rebounded in the final quarter thanks to growth in trade and stronger performances in the industrial and manufacturing sector.

GDP grew by 0.7% in 2025, according to preliminary data released by the national statistics agency INEGI. 

Unquestionably, the biggest contributor to Mexico’s limited success was exports

During the year, shipments of goods abroad exceeded US $664.8 billion, a 7.6% increase compared to 2024. Despite the multitude of tariffs imposed by Trump, more than 83% of these exports went to the U.S. market. 

Analysts cited by the newspaper El País agree that the performance of exports and the private sector’s residential construction were the driving forces behind Mexico’s economic growth in 2025, despite a collapse in public investment “due to the significant spending cuts implemented by the Sheinbaum administration to reduce the fiscal deficit.”

Bloomberg News reported that the growth can also be attributed to the strong performance of the agricultural sector, which rose 0.6% in the fourth quarter compared to the same period of the previous year. Industry and manufacturing grew just 0.3%, while the services sector accelerated to 2% year-on-year.

Defying the Trump tariffs 

In a year marked by  U.S. trade aggression, the record-breaking performance of exports prevented Mexico’s GDP from dipping into recession. Even so, the preliminary data represents the slowest growth since 2020 when COVID-19 seriously disrupted economies across the globe.

Last year’s GDP growth was lower than in 2024, when the Mexican economy registered a 1.2% increase. It also marked a fourth consecutive decline since a 5% rebound in 2021 as the economy recovered from the pandemic.

Paradoxically, even though U.S. tariffs further clouded the outlook for Mexico as soon as U.S. President Donald Trump took office in January 2025, Latin America’s No. 2 economy enjoyed strong exports. 

Additionally, the strong performance of primary and secondary activities overcame a sluggish third quarter, when the economy contracted by 0.3% quarter-on-quarter.

Mexico’s economic growth accelerated in the fourth quarter of 2025. From October to December, the Mexican economy grew by 0.8% compared to the previous quarter. And compared to the same quarter of 2024, the Mexican economy grew by 1.4%. 

What went right and what went wrong

Alfredo Coutiño, director for Latin America at Moody’s Analytics, said that in addition to the strong exports, cash transfers from the Sheinbaum administration and the increase in the minimum wage helped keep the Mexican economy afloat. 

“Furthermore, the easing of U.S. tariffs and [Mexico’s] efforts to comply with [US-Mexico-Canada trade agreement] rules reduced the impact of tariffs and protected the trade balance, preventing the economy from falling into negative territory,” he said, adding, however, that Mexico’s overall economic performance was “mediocre” in 2025.

Gabriela Siller, director of analysis at Banco Base, told El País that the rise in informality has also pushed Mexico into an economic stagnation trap exacerbated by a decline in fixed investment, the drop in productivity and the weakening of its institutions.

Coutiño also described a “chronic anemia” in productive investment in Mexico, as well as a climate of uncertainty surrounding constitutional reforms, which discouraged private investment. 

Marco Oviedo, Latin America strategist for XP Investments, concurred, saying the controversial judicial reform remains an issue of concern. 

“Investment stalled after the reform was announced, and this is evident both in the number of employers, which has been declining, and in the informal sector, which continues to grow,” he said.

The outlook for 2026 seems more promising, however. 

Oviedo says the first six months of 2026 could see manufacturing and construction as driving forces, reflected in both investment and private consumption in anticipation of the FIFA World Cup for which Mexico will serve as co-host.

With reports from El País, La Jornada and El Economista

How an 81-year-old gringa launched a Mexican opera company

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Kate Burt
81-year-old Kate Burt (center) hasn't let age slow her down, founding Opera Guanajuato in her adopted home. (Facebook)

In 2009, at age 65, New York City mezzo-soprano, stage director, costume designer and high school theater teacher Kate Burt moved to the city of Guanajuato. While studying Spanish, she approached the University of Guanajuato and asked if she could audit theater and voice classes. 

“Sitting in on classes that focused on voice, music and theater was my way of learning vocabulary related to things I loved,” she says. “I just listened until I could talk.” 

Learning Spanish through music

Pastorela in Mexico
Burt’s introduction to theater in Mexico was via the pastorela, a traditional folk play. (Edgar Negrete/Cuartoscuro)

After a year, she not only knew how to say “B minor” in Spanish but also had gotten to know many key people in the local performing arts community. 

Knowing Burt had designed costumes for little theaters in the U.S., the director of a Guanajuato children’s theater workshop asked her to create angel wings for an upcoming pastorela. Burt sewed the 2-meter-high wings on her treadle sewing machine, hand-painting the cloth feathers. 

When the wings were finished, she started to climb into a taxi to go to the theater and realized they wouldn’t fit, so she slipped them on over her clothes and walked across town to the theater. 

“I imagine I looked muy rara,”  Burt chuckled. “Lots of folks pointed and stared and asked why I was wearing them. I think it was good publicity for the pastorela.” 

Getting involved in theater

On the way, she ran into the University of Guanajuato music school’s director of voice, who asked her if she would teach acting skills to voice students. Although she didn’t know it yet, teaching acting skills for three semesters would lead Burt to start directing and producing plays and operas in 2012. 

The first play was one she was reading as a Spanish-learning exercise

Opera Guanajuato
Burt’s involvement with theater led to her founding of the Opera Guanajuato. (Facebook)

“It was so hilarious that I decided to look for actors to perform it,” she said. “I learned so much colloquial Spanish directing that play.”

When Burt came to Guanajuato, she had no plans to start an opera company. 

“But it seemed strange to me that a city with so much culture, theater, a superb orchestra and beautiful venues had virtually no opportunities for singers to perform,” she said. “The organization evolved slowly. Little by little, we built scenes, did small productions — and then larger ones.” 

The birth of Opera Guanajuato

Burt is now the director of Opera Guanajuato (OG), an associación civil (non-profit) that she founded in 2018, whose mission is to provide opportunities for Mexican singers, actors, musicians, dancers and designers to participate in opera and theater productions. OG also offers one or two scholarships a year to help talented singers with limited means. 

Almost all the adult and children’s choir members are Mexican, giving them the once-rare opportunity to perform. OG holds open auditions, and Burt listens to singers from all over the country. They produce two to three plays or chamber operas a year, including “Hansel and Gretel, “The Magic Flute,” and “Amahl and the Night Visitors.” They offer the productions not just in Guanajuato but also in other towns in the state, like San Miguel de Allende and Irapuato.

Opera in the park

Burt has used her creativity in other ways as well, like offering opera scenes in Guanajuato’s Mercado Hidalgo, where singers would appear among the tortilla and cheese puestos. 

Kate Burt
Burt has ensured that opera is taken to the people, including performances in Guanajuato’s Mercado Hidalgo. (Facebook)

“The reaction was tremendous,” she says. “People sometimes say, ‘We can’t go to the theater — the show times don’t work for us — but please bring them back to the market.’”

She believes children are a conduit for helping the public become familiar with opera. 

“When we involve children, they bring their aunts, uncles, grandparents, cousins — the whole family — to the theater. Many who had never been to an opera say, ‘Wow, I didn’t know about that. When is the next one?’” 

Challenges to overcome

The biggest challenge at first, of course, was language. She chuckles over the mistakes she made, like asking a waiter for el cuento (a short story) instead of la cuenta (the check). 

“The poor waiter looked terrified!” Her friend corrected her and they all had a good laugh. 

After mastering Spanish, “there was the process of understanding that Mexican culture is very distinct from my culture, and requires a foreigner to listen sensitively and ask open questions.”

Concert in Guanajuato
Given her belief in children as the best conduits of opera, Burt has also been active in concerts, like this one at the Casa de la Cultura in Guanajuato. (Facebook)

Another challenge has been dealing with the tax structure and administrative demands, involving extensive unanticipated paperwork. She relies on an accountant to deal with SAT, Mexico’s IRS. The accountant is one of four part-time staff, along with a choral director, an administrative assistant, and a publicist, all of whom have other full-time jobs. Soloists, pianists and orchestra musicians are also paid. 

To pay their salaries, OG does private fundraising, and Burt — who owns a rental house in Colorado — invests some of her own money into the company. 

“We would love to have a permanent home where we could rehearse and perform,” she says. 

Taking advantage of local support

If you have an idea, she suggests getting to know local people who have an interest in your area of expertise. Find out what they’re already doing, ask open questions, listen respectfully and see where an unfilled need exists. 

With local support, you, too, might start something as exciting as an opera company.

Louisa Rogers and her husband Barry Evans divide their lives between Guanajuato and Eureka, on California’s North Coast. Louisa writes articles and essays about expat life, Mexico, travel, physical and psychological health, retirement and spirituality. Her recent articles are available on her website, authory.com/LouisaRogers.

8 foreigners on why they left everything for Mexico City — and whether they’ll stay

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Nighttime light sweep on an avenue in Colonia Condesa in Mexico City
Mexico City is home to many millions of people, including foreigners attracted by the lifestyle. (Alcaldía Cuauhtémoc)

A 2024 New York Times report notes that Mexico is home to over 1.6 million U.S. citizens — the largest American community abroad. But it’s more than Americans: Argentinian, Spaniard, Chinese and Russian populations have all grown significantly, with Mexican authorities reporting a 64% year-on-year increase in Russian migrants in 2024. The stereotypical CDMX immigrant — a digital nomad typing furiously from a café while nursing the same almond-milk cappuccino for hours (yes, I’m describing myself) — isn’t the full story. 

This article follows eight foreigners who’ve chosen Mexico City as home: a Siberian artist, a British designer, an American photographer and business owners from Venezuela to Israel. What they discovered is a city of contradictions: welcoming yet isolating, affordable yet expensive, home and foreign all at once. And somehow that’s exactly what keeps them here.

Why they left their old life behind 

Mexico City
Everyone who moves to Mexico City has different reasons for doing so. (Roman Lopez/Unsplash)

Anastasia’s move to Mexico City wasn’t entirely intentional. The multidisciplinary artist and sustainable streetwear designer had been living in New York for six years when she visited family in Russia. Upon her return, her U.S. visa was unexpectedly denied. Despite everything she owned still being in New York, she decided to move to Mexico City — permanently.

“What once felt like an abrupt disruption became one of the greatest gifts of my life,” she said. “I never felt that I fully belonged in my country, and I always knew my life would unfold across different parts of the world. Mexico felt like a warm embrace — a true home.”

In Venezuela, Orlando was earning US $38 a month. He left partly out of necessity, partly in search for the right place to build a career: San Francisco, Santiago, Buenos Aires, São Paulo, Bogotá. It was years of bouncing between cities before settling in Mexico City eight years ago, where he founded Meaningful, a 25-person growth marketing studio. 

“I wanted to reconnect with my Latino roots and the Venezuelan community,” he said. “Mexico gave me all of that.”

An injury during a trek in Japan left U.S. citizen Logan with medical bills and drained savings. The cheapest flight west landed him in Mexico City. “Everything felt in flow. Life was working out here.” 

The writer, photographer, and filmmaker has been here ever since.

CDMX city scene
Mexico City has an appealing energy and vibe (Jezael Melgoza/Unsplash)

Love brought Luke from Nottingham, England, seven years ago after meeting his Mexican wife while she studied abroad. They now await their first child.

Is Mexico City actually affordable?

As of 2024, Mexico City is the most expensive city for internationals to live in Latin America. While many publications blame gentrification, the reality is more complex: Food inflation rose 4-5%, and entertainment and services costs have surged. Mexico City’s size, tourism and concentration of higher-income residents mean businesses can — and do — set premium prices.

Is it still more affordable than living north of the border? Alexander, a German-born U.S. citizen who runs a bespoke events agency in Mexico, thinks so, though he acknowledges the privilege.

“You can have a better life when making U.S. dollars, but let’s not forget that things are getting more expensive.”

This is particularly impactful for families. As mental health clinic owner Jessica points out, earning potential often drops when moving here, and with children, costs multiply in unexpected ways. In Australia, where she’s from, childcare and schools operate on the assumption that both parents work — systems are heavily subsidized and organized around full work days. In Mexico, roughly 18% of public schools participate in after-school care programs.

The assumption is that family members are available for support, and, if a parent works, the family probably has access to Mexican social security benefits (IMSS), which include free healthcare. Without that built-in network, expats end up paying for nannies, inconvenient school days and private healthcare. The affordability equation changes significantly as circumstances shift.

Angel de la Independencia
The cost of living shouldn’t be the reason anyone moves to Mexico. (Luis Dominguez/Unsplash)

But everyone interviewed agreed on one thing: The cost of living shouldn’t be your primary motivation. Orlando, who works with clients like DoorDash and Raycast, puts it directly.

“Come here to continue producing, creating wealth and building happiness for yourself and the people around you,” he said. “Don’t come just to settle and chill, especially if you’re young.”

Logan was even more blunt.

“Pick a better reason!” he said. “Only stay when you fall in love with it.”

The benefits of living in Mexico City

Nearly everyone mentioned Mexico City’s warm, welcoming energy. Logan said he’s watched life unfold without the usual struggle. 

“I’m shocked by how I’ve found projects here,” he said. “It often feels like I’m being pulled into things when, all my life, I’ve pushed to make anything happen for myself.”

Mexico City
Mexico City welcomes those with ambition and plans. (Oscar Reygo/Unsplash)

Luke, who runs the motion design agency Only the Bold, assumed creative meetups would be easy to find in a city this size. Even though he arrived before the pandemic, he discovered that in-person networking events were hard to find. So he and a Mexican friend started Motion Design México together to fill the gap. Rotem, an Israeli who left international tech to open Pasta Mestiza, found meeting people the easiest part of the transition.

The quality-of-life shift was universal, especially for those fleeing fast-paced cultures. Alexander left U.S. stress behind: 

“Back home, everyone seems to be stressed, working like crazy just to pay bills. Once I came here, this all changed. I feel happier and more relaxed.”

Daily rhythms reflect this slower pace. Monica, a New Yorker who opened Curiosa Cafe in Mexico City’s Condesa neighborhood, starts mornings walking her dogs through Parque México. Orlando does the same along tree-lined Avenida Ámsterdam. Alexander works from coffee shops he’s not tried yet and then explores new neighborhoods when done for the day. And Mexico taught Anastasia something unexpected: the beauty of spending more time alone.

Do expats feel welcome?

But feeling welcome and feeling at home are different things. Everyone interviewed has built a real life in Mexico City. Whether they feel truly accepted is more complicated.

Rotem felt welcomed from the start, but the real test came during the peak of the Israel-Palestine war. 

A banner reading "La Gentrificación no es progreso, es despojo" hangs over a Mexico City street
“Gentrification isn’t progress, it’s dispossession,” reads a banner hung in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City in July. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)

“Some tourists who came to eat in Pasta Mestiza would turn around when they realized I’m from Israel,” he said. “Not one Mexican reacted that way — they were always empathetic, even asking about my family.” 

In six years, Orlando said he has had only one negative experience: a bank representative who took issue with his Venezuelan roots.

How long did it take for the city to feel like home? For some, like Anastasia, it was immediate. For Jessica, it’s been more cyclical. 

“There are times when it felt like home and times when it didn’t,” she acknowledged.

Rotem captures the duality.

“I have moments where I can still feel on vacation, like being at a wedding and having chilaquiles at 1 a.m., then washing them down with tequila and dancing to banda music. That’s probably something I’ll never get used to — and I’m happy for that.”

Two young men and two young women dine and converse around a restaurant table with Mexican food in a bright, tree-shaded courtyard restaurant.
Spanish language fluency makes it easier to make friends and fit in. (Christian Rojas/Pexels)

Does Spanish fluency increase belonging? Everyone interviewed has at least an intermediate understanding of the language, although mastery remains elusive for most. 

Luke feels language is crucial, especially in social settings, where being able to keep up with fast-paced conversations is the difference between being a spectator and a participant: 

“Something that haunts me is that you could replace me with a potted fern, and nobody at the party would spot the difference. At that point, I’m essentially a less aesthetically pleasing version of a houseplant.”

Navigating Mexico City’s systems and challenges

Jessica, who’s lived in Mexico’s capital the longest, experienced something no one warns you about. 

“I feel the initial arrival is easier — the romance phase with great weather, affordable rent, friendly faces and delicious fruit. What was harder was not being prepared for how culture shock reveals itself the further you integrate. It’s not something you go through once at the start. It’s cyclical. The hardest times have been much later, in my experience.”

Mexico’s systems are proof of this. In Australia, the U.S., Canada and the U.K., rules-based environments mean that by following regulations, you’ll be protected. Consumer protection bodies can pressure banks and companies to honor refunds or compensate for errors. In Mexico, however, consumer protection agencies like Profeco exist on paper, but fines for illegal behavior go to the state rather than the harmed party — enforcing your rights usually means hiring a lawyer.

Mexico City
Bureaucracy and the amount of traffic can be off-putting. (Roger Ce/Unsplash)

Monica misses the “customer is always right” mentality when dealing with suppliers for her cafe. Opening even a small business involves navigating multiple offices and portals — often in person — that can delay opening for weeks. Mexico’s tax collection agency, known as the SAT, relies heavily on a specific method of electronic invoicing, so a missing or incorrect factura can result in losing a deduction entirely — even if the expense was documented by other means. 

For Jessica, this makes running a business feel precarious. The moment one link fails — an unhelpful bank, a supplier who won’t honor a contract, a permit delayed with no explanation — the whole structure wobbles, and there’s no obvious safety net.

Both Monica and Logan also said they faced landlord struggles. Each was threatened with illegal lease termination when higher-paying tenants appeared. Logan fought back. 

“I scared him off with a legal text asserting my tenant rights, opening a case with PROSOC [Mexico City’s housing rights agency] and asking for his CFDI [proof that he was declaring the rental income from Logan to the SAT] and facturas, because I suspected he wasn’t paying taxes.”

Luke acknowledges the broader tension. 

“The anti-gentrification movement is understandable, but it’s a reminder that you will always be seen as an outsider,” he said, then turned philosophical. “Ultimately, I think the answer is a reflection of your own internal reality, and we can create whatever reality we choose.”

Will they stay?

Mexico City zocalo
Most foreigners who move to Mexico City fall in love with the city. But not everyone wants to stay forever. (Bhargava Marripati/Unsplash)

Can they imagine leaving? Some can, but not yet.

Anastasia isn’t quite ready.

“I’m still a bit traumatized by visa experiences, and nothing is ever guaranteed,” she said.

Luke joked he’d need “a world war, another pandemic or free tickets to Disneyland” to consider leaving Mexico. Orlando said he’d reconsider living here if democracy were threatened or if he needed better schools and safety for a future family.

The common thread is family. Rotem thinks about it often.

“The distance from my family is a big factor,” he said. “I believe that at some point I’ll want to spend more time with my parents, helping them when they get older.” 

Xochimilco ecological park
There’s a pull between missing family and wanting to start one’s own. (Roberto Carlos Román Don)

Jessica feels the same pull.

“As my parents age, it’s a thought that is often on my mind. The thrill of adventure is giving way  to the pull of family, familiarity and a feeling of security.” 

Monica and Logan said they would only leave Mexico for safety crises or family emergencies.

But none are planning exits now. Logan, a year and a half in, is still in the honeymoon phase. Orlando’s gratitude for Mexico has only grown — so much so that he became a Mexican citizen six months ago. 

“The more grateful I became, the more it felt like mine,” he said. 

Jessica captures it best.

CDMX
Mexico City is welcoming, but it can also become isolating for those who have moved from other countries. (Carlos Aranda/Unsplash)

“My Mexico journey is far from complete — it’s now a permanent part of my story and my life, and I suspect it will remain so in some form or another.”

Those contradictions promised at the start — welcoming yet isolating, affordable yet expensive, home and foreign all at once — aren’t problems to solve. They’re the reality of building a life in a place that isn’t yours by birth but that becomes yours through commitment.

Luke offers the final word: 

“I believe people should be free to move where they want, even for economic reasons,” Luke says. “It comes down to a base human level: Are you being a good neighbor? Contribute something, integrate.”

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.