Sunday, May 4, 2025

Living a borderless life: Meet Carlos Arce

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Carlos Arce
Carlos Arce was born in Mexico, studied and worked in the U.S., and has now returned to San Miguel de Allende. (Courtesy)

Carlos Arce identifies with the lyrics of his favorite song “No Soy de Aquí, Ni Soy de Allá”, “I’m not from here and I’m not from there.”  Born in Mexico, he moved to the US at an early age, and returned to his homeland only recently, in his 80s. He chose to settle in historic San Miguel de Allende, where he first came as a young man in the 1960s. 

After achieving great success in the US, he chose to re-invent himself and invest his time and money in Mexico: acquiring a hotel and coffee shop, and playing an active role in the community, serving on the board of the local bilingual library.  

Carlos Arce as a boy
As a boy in California, Carlos excelled at his studies. (Courtesy)

Carlos was an accomplished academic researcher and entrepreneur. He is also the proud grandfather of seven, all pursuing their individual visions: from a musician, an audio engineer, a medical student, an AI engineer to a fashion designer, scattered across the U.S., Canada and France.  

“My family reunions today represent many identities; Mexican, Puerto Rican, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino, Native American, African American, and all sorts of European and northern African origins,” Carlos says.  

Carlos was aware that his parents and grandparents hailed from the western mountains of Chihuahua, the Sierra Tarahumara, but he and his brother have made discoveries about his deeper origins which span seven generations in this region of Indigenous peoples, goat and cattle farmers, and miners, likely drawn to this area since the late 17th century.

Carlos’s grandparents split their time between New Mexico and Chihuahua in the early 20th century, when the border was more porous. His family embraced cross-cultural life between the two countries. His father Francisco lived in the U.S. during the Great Depression before returning to Mexico, marrying, and then rejoining his brother José in California in 1954, when Carlos was 13, and his younger brother was six years old.  

These years were spent in the Sacramento valley, where his father and uncle worked hard in the rice fields, gaining trust and respect from their employer which allowed the family to purchase a first home. 

At the small catholic school, where the nuns had no experience with immigrants, Carlos was placed in a different grade each week, all the way up to 7th, which he now remembers with amusement as the chairs got bigger by the week! His schooling in Chihuahua had been excellent, so he aced all the subjects, foreshadowing a bright academic trajectory ahead.

With the 1957 Soviet launch of Sputnik, the first artificial Earth satellite, the space race began; the U.S. turned its focus on students, like Carlos, with strong math and science skills. Fortunately for Carlos, he had the luck of being mentored by Charles Lindquist, a Swedish-American math and physics teacher, who made Carlos his teaching assistant. Lindquist put Carlos forward for Berkeley, MIT, Stanford, and Caltech and he earned merit scholarships to all of them.

He chose Berkeley because it was the closest to home.

Carlos remembers when he started, he developed a class schedule that would keep him in the class from 9 a.m. – 3 p.m. every single day, five days a week, having no clue that he was only supposed to take up to 15 hours of classes per week. The faculty advisor didn’t even lift his head when he looked at Carlos’s schedule and threw it back at him, but a fellow student he befriended told him a secret that would transform his college career: if a signature was scribbled on his class card, no one would notice. Carlos could design his own class card and therefore, create his own schedule!

Carlos Arce on a motorcycle trip
Carlos went on a motorcycle adventure through South America for two months in the 1960s. (Coutesy)

During these college years Carlos became an avid cyclist, road-tripping from Berkeley to Vancouver, Canada. In 1963, he bought a motorcycle and went on his first long ride down to South America through Mexico, stopping in San Miguel de Allende for a month.

Carlos’s motorcycle journey in South America lasted for two months  He loaded his bike on the boat at the Panama Canal heading to Turbo, Colombia, a port city that lies near the southeastern tip of the Darién gap, 340 km north of Medellín.

It was on this grand and risky adventure that he truly grew to appreciate diversity of race and class. He had a natural passion for observing, asking questions and most of all, for feeling at home wherever he went. 

Due to his scientific bent and social commitment, he shifted from engineering and physics to eventually graduate with a dual major in anthropology and math in his almost seven years as an undergrad. He then became a committed ethnographic and social researcher, and was able to discover the country he loved and was most curious about; his own, Mexico; its people, and their dispersal.    

During those college years he was inspired by two professors who were pioneering quantitative anthropology, examining massive quantities of behavioral data and parsing it into separate components around culture, folklore, ethnic relations, and more – essentially building affinity models to track how culture and cultural perceptions evolve.

He started his career after completing a PhD in 1974, working at the Survey Research Center in Ann Arbor, Michigan, and in 1984 he started up his own survey research company. He met his wife Johanna, who became his invaluable partner in both life and work.

His work centered primarily on quantitative research, asking “the difficult questions” and probing difficult topics, especially around intercultural differences and relations, delivering the insights his clients sought. After 25 years, Carlos and Johanna successfully sold their first company to a German firm, and a few years later, sold a second research company focused on GPS technology.

By this time, Carlos was in his 70s, and the call to pursue new horizons beckoned. He’d lived a full life in academia, and the adventure of successful entrepreneurship. His heart still belonged to Mexico, to San Miguel de Allende, the city he’d fallen in love with on his motorcycle journey in 1962. It was time for him to bring all that he had gained back to his homeland.

Canadian and Argentine killed in separate incidents in Oaxaca

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Benjamin Gamond, left, and Victor Masson, right, both killed in Oaxaca in May 2023
From left to right: Benjamín Gamond, 23, of Argentina, and Victor Masson, 27, of Canada, were killed in different parts of Oaxaca in unrelated incidents. (Social media)

Two foreign men — a Canadian and an Argentine — have been killed in the southern state of Oaxaca in recent days.

Victor Masson, a 27-year-old from Québec, was shot and killed in the coastal town of Puerto Escondido on Monday, while Benjamín Gamond, a 23-year-old man from Córdoba, died in a Mexico City hospital on Monday after he was attacked with a machete in Oaxaca’s Lagunas de Chacahua National Park last Friday. Both were apparently visiting as tourists in Mexico.

Left to right: Victor Masson and girlfriend
Masson, a mortgage advisor from Québec, with his Mexican girlfriend, who told police that her last communication with Masson was a text in which he warned her to call 911 if he sent her a text saying, “danger.” (Social media)

Masson, who was visiting Puerto Escondido with his Mexican girlfriend, was reportedly shot in the back while driving a rented car in the neighborhood of Arroyo Seco.

Oaxaca Attorney General Bernardo Rodríguez Alamilla said Wednesday that the shooting could be related to an argument Masson had with four people in a Puerto Escondido restaurant/bar.

He said that the Canadian man went on his own to an establishment in the El Adoquín area last Sunday and met two men and two women. There was an altercation between the tourist and the four people when they were paying the bill, Rodríguez said.

The attorney general said that Masson subsequently called 911 and reported that he had been robbed.

Crime scene at Lagunas de Chacahua National Park in Oaxaca, Mexico
Gamond’s assailant, identified by authorities as Cruz Irving, 21, attacked him and Gamond’s two Argentine companions with a machete in Oaxaca’s Lagunas de Chacahua National Park. Gamond died in a Mexico City hospital. (Twitter)

“The most solid line [of investigation] we have is the altercation he had with these people,” Rodríguez said, adding that authorities are working to identify them.

Gamond, the Argentine victim, was targeted in a machete attack allegedly perpetrated by a man from Guerrero. He suffered severe head injuries while two other Argentines who attempted to repel the aggressor sustained non-fatal wounds.

The alleged perpetrator, identified as 21-year-old Cruz Irving, was arrested and placed in preventive detention on charges of attempted murder. Given that Gamond died, the suspect will be tried for murder.

Rodríguez said Wednesday that Gamond and his friends, Macarena González and Santiago Lastra, arrived in Chacahua last Thursday and were looking for surfing instructors when they had their first contact with the accused.


Gamond was a member of the Tala Rugby Club in Córdoba, Argentina. The club posted this tweet in Gamond’s memory on Monday.

 

“We have established that on May 12, at about two in the afternoon, they went out to eat, [and] the accused intercepted them and apparently attacked them without reason,” he said.

The attorney general said that drug use appeared to be a factor in the attack based on the behavior of the accused when he was arrested.

“It’s a terrible event,” he said. “The crimes under investigation are assault and homicide.”

According to press reports, Gamond’s family donated seven of his organs before his remains were returned to Argentina, saying that it had been Gamond’s wish to do so.

Oaxaca Government Secretary Jesús Romero said that the two murders were isolated incidents and stressed that Oaxaca is a safe state.

Data presented by federal Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez this week showed that there were 299 homicides in Oaxaca in the first four months of the year, making the southern state the 13th most violent of Mexico’s 32 entities.

With reports from Infobae and El País

Attorney General charges 4 former officials in Pegasus spyware probe

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The Attorney General's Office announced Monday that it will prosecute four ex-officials for the illegal purchase and use of Pegasus to spy on civilians between 2012 and 2018. (Photo: Archive)

The Federal Attorney General’s Office (FGR) announced Monday that it is prosecuting the former head of the now-defunct Criminal Investigation Agency (AIC) and three other ex-officials in connection with an “illegal” purchase of the Pegasus spyware system in 2014.

The FGR said in a statement that ex-AIC head Tomás Zerón, who the federal government is attempting to extradite from Israel, former Federal Ministerial Police chief Vidal Díazleal, and two other former senior law enforcement officials, Judith Araceli Gómez Molano and Rigoberto García Campos, were responsible for a 460 million peso (US $26 million) purchase of the spyware by the PGR, as the Attorney General’s Office was formerly called.

Tómas Zerón, former head of the now-defunct Criminal Investigation Agency (AIC), will face charges of torture and tampering with evidence if he is successfully extradited from Israel.
Tómas Zerón, former head of the now-defunct Criminal Investigation Agency (AIC), will face charges of torture and tampering with evidence if he is successfully extradited from Israel.

The Pegasus suite of spyware, which can infiltrate and extract information from cellphones, is made by the Israeli cyber-intelligence firm NSO Group.

The FGR said the four ex-officials are accused of embezzlement, fraud, abuse of power and criminal association in connection with the purchase.

“The operation amount was 460 million pesos for a system that this new administration doesn’t have, that the [current] Federal Attorney General’s Office has never used and which was purchased illegally,” it said.

The FGR said it has requested on three occasions that an initial hearing be held at a Mexico City federal court and is awaiting a response.

Former President Felipe Calderón and then-President-elect Enrique Peña Nieto at a 2012 meeting.
Former President Felipe Calderón and then-President-elect Enrique Peña Nieto at a 2012 meeting. (Ariel Gutiérrez)

The federal government said in July 2021 that the administrations led by former presidents Felipe Calderón (2006-2012) and Enrique Peña Nieto (2012-2018) spent approximately US $300 million between 2012 and 2018 to purchase spyware from NSO Group.

Santiago Nieto, who was head of the government’s Financial Intelligence Unit (UIF) at the time, spoke about an alleged kickback scheme in which some of the money paid to NSO Group was apparently funneled back to officials.

Among the government departments that bought and/or operated Pegasus during the previous two governments were the Defense Ministry (Sedena), the federal Attorney General’s Office (when it was known as the PGR) and the now-defunct Center for Investigation and National Security.

The New York Times reported in April on an initial deal between the Mexican military and NSO Group in 2011, in which the military became “the first client ever” to purchase Pegasus.

AMLO showing contract between Mexican government and NSO spying company
In July 2021, AMLO showed reporters a contract between the former president Enrique Peña Nieto’s government and the NSO Group to buy Pegasus spyware. He said that his government wouldn’t spy on citizens. (Gob MX)

Journalists, activists, opposition figures and others, including at least 50 people close to President López Obrador, were potentially targeted with Pegasus by the Peña Nieto government, according to a 2021 report by The Guardian newspaper.

The Times said it had “found that Mexico has continued to use Pegasus to spy on people who defend human rights, even in recent months.” Meanwhile, civil society organizations and media outlets published an investigation late last year entitled Ejército Espía (The Spy Army), finding that Sedena illegally used Pegasus spyware against journalists and human rights defenders in 2019, 2020 and 2021.

Luis Fernando García, executive director of Red en Defensa de los Derechos Digitales (Digital Rights Defense Network), one of the organizations that contributed to the Ejército Espía investigation, said in a radio interview Monday that the FGR’s prosecution of Zerón and three other former officials “in no way satisfies the need for justice” in cases related to the use of Pegasus during the current government and previous ones.

The FGR noted in its statement that the investigation into the PGR’s 2014 purchase of Pegasus is “independent” of another case related to “several illegal interventions” carried out with the spyware during the Peña Nieto administration.

In October 2022, a group of journalists denounced the current administration for employing the same spyware to gather intelligence illegally. (Victoria Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)

Despite evidence to the contrary, López Obrador asserts that his government does not spy on anyone and only performs “intelligence work” to combat organized crime.

His administration has been asking Israel to extradite Zerón to Mexico, where he faces charges related to the disappearance of 43 students in Guerrero in 2014.

The former AIC chief had led the investigation into the disappearance of students of the Ayotzinapa Rural Teachers’ College. He now faces charges in connection with the case, including torture and tampering with evidence.

“I say to the authorities of Israel, how can … [you] protect torturers,” López Obrador said Monday after calling on Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu to follow through on the “commitment” to extradite Zerón.

With reports from Proceso, Animal Político and Aristegui Noticias 

Coahuila and México state elections on June 4 have big stakes for PRI

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Manolo Jiménez Salinas, candidate for governor in Coahuila, Mexico
Manolo Jiménez Salinas is the PRI"s chance to hold onto power in Coahuila's governor's office. (Alejandro Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

Voters in México state and Coahuila will go to the polls on June 4 to elect new governors for six-year terms that will commence later this year.

Citizens in Coahuila will also elect representatives to the state’s 25-seat unicameral Congress.

Mexico state governor Alfredo del Mazo and Coahuila governor Miguel Ángel Riquelme
The current governors in México state, Alfredo del Mazo, left, and Coahuila, Miguel Ángel Riquelme, right. Both are governors in states that are seen as major tests for the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) this election, as the party risks losing strongholds. (Moises Pablo Nava and Victorial Valtierra Ruvalcaba/Cuartoscuro)

With election day fast approaching, Mexico News Daily has prepared a guide to the contests in both México state — Mexico’s most populous state — and Coahuila, the country’s third largest state by area.

Who is currently in power?

The governors of both México state and Coahuila are representatives of the Institutional Revolutionary Party, or PRI, which has been in power in the two states without interruption since the first half of the 20th century.

The México state governor is Alfredo del Mazo Maza, whose father and grandfather previously held the same position. The Coahuila governor is Miguel Riquelme Solís, a former mayor of Torreón.

The PRI has a majority in the Coahuila Congress, while no party has a majority on its own in the 75-seat México state legislature, whose elections were last held in 2021.

Candidates for Mexico state gubernatorial election in 2023.
In México state, the next governor will be a woman, as the two major candidates are women.

Who are the candidates?

A female governor will take office for the first time in México state in September as both candidates are women.

Alejandra del Moral Vela, a former mayor of Cuautitlán Izcalli who was social development minister in del Mazo’s government until last October, will represent an alliance made up of the PRI, the National Action Party (PAN) and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD).

The candidate for Morena (the party founded by President López Obrador) and its allies is Delfina Gómez Álvarez, who also contested the 2017 gubernatorial election in México state. Gómez was education minister in López Obrador’s government between February 2021 and September 2022.

The Coahuila gubernatorial election is a four-way contest between former Saltillo mayor Manolo Jiménez Salinas, ex-senator Armando Guadiana Tijerina, former deputy security minister Ricardo Mejía Berdeja and ex-deputy Lenin Pérez Rivera.

Jiménez, who served as minister of inclusion and social development for one year in the current state government, will represent a PRI-PAN-PRD alliance, while Guadiana, a septuagenarian civil engineer, is the candidate for Morena.

candidates for gubernatorial race in Coahuila
In Coahuila, it’s a four-way gubernatorial race, with former mayors, congressmen and even AMLO’s former deputy security minister (Mejía Berdeja) in the running.

Mejía, a Torreón native who vied for Morena’s candidacy, will represent the Labor Party, which is an ally of Morena at a federal level, while Pérez, a former mayor of Ciudad Acuña, is contesting the election on a ticket supported by a local party called Democratic Unity of Coahuila (UDC) as well as the Ecological Green Party of Mexico (PVEM).

What are the most important issues?

MÉXICO STATE

Del Moral and Gómez faced off in a first debate last month and will go head-to-head in a second debate this Thursday. The designated topics for the two debates are indicative of the issues that matter most to the approximately 12 million eligible voters in México state.

The topics considered at the April 20 debate were:

  • the fight against corruption
  • gender violence
  • public services
  • culture and recreation
Union convention in Mexico state
México state Governor Alfredo del Mazo speaks at a meeting of state unions. Jobs are a major issue in this state’s gubernatorial election. (File photo/State of México)

Those up for discussion at this week’s showdown are:

  • security and justice
  • economy and employment
  • education
  • the environment and sustainable development

COAHUILA

The candidates for governor in Coahuila have already participated in two debates, one on April 16 and another on May 1.

Among the topics considered were:

  • education
  • water and sustainable development
  • the state’s financial situation
  • health
  • governance and security
Cow dead from dehydration in Ramos Arizpe, Coahuila, Mexico
One issue on voters’ mind in Coahuila is water sustainability, especially with the state government attracting more and more foreign companies. Last year, Coahuila suffered intense drought, and farmers saw significant losses when they couldn’t find water for their animals. Here is seen a cow that died from dehydration in Ramos Arizpe, also a state manufacturing hub. (Alejandro Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

What are the candidates saying on social media?

Alejandra del Moral Vela (PRI-PAN-PRD alliance), Twitter, May 15:

“Mothers and fathers and our girls and boys deserve a government that understands their needs, that is sensitive to their problems and that seeks solutions. … I want to be your governor because I want to reconcile the government with society, doing everything necessary so that México state families do well.”

Delfina Gómez Álvarez (Morena), Twitter, May 15:

“To the women of México state, I want to say that you’re not alone. Each step that we take together will be a step toward equal rights. Our fight is to guarantee a world in which each woman is free to dream, act and live as she chooses. Together we are the engine of change!”

Manolo Jiménez Salinas (PRI-PAN-PRD alliance), Twitter, May 16:

“In Coahuila, we will promote more programs and social projects for vulnerable groups and for the countryside. My commitment is to work for a more inclusive state with a better quality of life for everyone.”

Alejandra del Moral Vela, candidate for governor in Mexico state.
Alejandra del Moral Vela meets with members of vulnerable groups in México state, where she’s running for governor. Both she and her main competitor Delfina Gómez are focusing on supporting families, children and women. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Armando Guadiana Tijerina (Morena), Twitter, May 15:

“The ONLY transformation project of ‘you know who’ [López Obrador] is in Morena. That’s why this June 4 [we need a] massive vote for Morena!!

Ricardo Mejía Berdeja (Labor Party), Twitter, May 14:

“We’re going all out against the corrupt. No half measures, no tepidness.”

Lenin Pérez Rivera (PVEM-UDC), Twitter, May 12:

“During this campaign, we’ve carefully listened to you. That’s why I reiterate: your dreams and hopes are possible if we get the PRI out of Coahuila! We’re committed to working tirelessly for the wellbeing of all.”

What have the polls found?

Morena’s Delfina Gómez appears on track to seize the coveted prize that is the governorship of Mexico’s most populous state. The newspaper El País analyzed the results of dozens of polls conducted in 2023 and reported Monday that Gómez has average support of 57.8%, compared to 41.8% support for del Moral.

The results of several polls conducted in May also indicate that the Morena candidate will prevail in México state on June 4.

In Coahuila, PRI-PAN-PRD candidate Manolo Jiménez Salinas is likely to win on the first Sunday in June, poll results indicate. Collated poll results published on the polls.mx website show that Jiménez has average support of 47%, 20 points clear of Morena’s Guadiana.

Mejía is in third place with average support of 17%, while Pérez lags in fourth spot with just 7% of poll respondents nominating him as their preferred leader of Coahuila.

Coahuila dubernatorial hopeful Manolo Jiménez Salinas
Coahuila hopeful Manolo Jiménez Salinas (PAN-PRI-PRD alliance) is favored in polls to win the governor’s race. (Manolo Jiménez Salinas/Facebook)

What’s the bigger picture?

The elections in México state and Coahuila will take place less than a year before voters go to the polls to elect a new president and renew both houses of federal Congress. All political parties will thus be watching the contests very closely to glean any information that could help them electorally in 2024.

Neither Morena nor the opposition Va por México (PRI-PAN-PRD) bloc have chosen their presidential candidates for June 2, 2024, but they are expected to begin their respective selection processes shortly after the México state and Coahuila elections.

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum and Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard are the leading Morena hopefuls, while Va por México is expected to have a wide field of potential candidates from which to choose.

Among the possible opposition candidates are Senator Lilly Téllez, Yucatán Governor Mauricio Vila, former tourism minister Enrique de la Madrid and former Mexico City mayor and current Senator Miguel Ángel Mancera.

Mexico News Daily

Popocatépetl volcanic activity puts area on high alert

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Popocatépetl emitting smoke and ash
The volcano had an active night, with 94 recorded emissions. It was filmed by the webcamsdemexico website, which has a camera trained on the active volcano. (Webcams de Mexico)

The Popocatépetl volcano has registered recent intense activity, putting the area on high alert. 

The government of Puebla city and other surrounding municipalities are reviewing evacuation routes and shelters to prepare for explosive activity. In the last 24 hours, 94 emissions of water vapor, gasses and ash were registered by the monitoring systems of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) and the National Center for Disaster Prevention (CENAPRED). 

“The explosions taking place inside Popocatépetl… are a normal phenomenon and not necessarily indicative of increased volcanic activity,” the institutions emphasized in a joint statement. Both stressed that the volcano is being monitored. Reports will be published daily at 11 a.m. summarizing the past 24 hours of volcanic activity. Any abnormal events are reported immediately, officials said. 

An explosion of incandescent material on Monday morning can be viewed on the Webcams de México Twitter account. 

Current volcanic activity represents a Phase 2 Yellow Alert on the Volcanic Alert Traffic Light (Semáforo de Alerta Volcánica) emergency system, activating a security radius of 12 kilometers around the volcano past which the public is forbidden from entering.The warning indicates an increase in activity and warns of light to moderate ashfall in nearby areas, as well as the possibility of mudslides and debris flow. 

Already, ashfall has prompted health authorities to recommend that residents use face masks, as it poses a considerable risk of respiratory disease and conjunctivitis. The Health Ministry recommends that residents of the following municipalities use face masks and, in some cases, protective eyewear: 

Popo ash cloud
Flights past the volcano caught impressive plumes of ash breaking through the clouds. (Twitter)
  • Santiago Xalitzintla
  • San Nicolás de los Ranchos
  • San Pedro Benito Juárez
  • Guadalupe Huexocuapan
  • Atlixco
  • Cuautlancingo
  • Huaquechula
  • Ocoyucan
  • Puebla
  • San Andrés Cholula
  • San Diego La Mesa Tochimilzingo
  • San Gregorio Atzompa
  • San Jerónimo Tecuanipan
  • San Pedro Cholula
  • Santa Isabel Cholula
  • Teopantlán

Authorities also urged citizens to focus on warnings by state and municipal governments or the Ministry of Defense and to avoid paying attention to alarmist content. All measures and evacuation routes have been planned, they said, although evacuation will only occur once the volcano reaches a Red Alert on the Traffic Light system. 

According to the Public Security Ministry, over 3,000 vehicles are prepared to evacuate the 13,000 inhabitants living in the risk area. 

With reports from Sin Embargo, Expansión and Cenapred-UNAM

Molino de los Reyes: A magical weekend in Tlaxcala

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Molino de los Reyes hotel in Tlaxcala
Located just two hours from Mexico City, Tlaxcala is a hidden gem worth exploring. (Molino de los Reyes/Facebook)

“I keep dreaming of Molino.”

That was the message I received from my good friend Melissa a day after we returned from our girls’ getaway. The heaviness of Zona Maco and its swarming crowds effectively drove us out of Mexico City and into the leafy, peaceful enclave of Tlaxcala in February.

It had been months since I first visited Molino de los Reyes and I’d been hankering to spend a full weekend there ever since. I’d booked us a room within minutes.

Tlaxcala or Tuscany? This magical mill-turned-hotel is straight out of a fairytale. (Molino de los Reyes/Facebook)

When we arrived at the hotel, the manager Juan and two of his staff met us at the entrance. I felt like total royalty and loved it. Juan led us to a couch to relax for a moment while he told us a brief but fascinating history about the creation of the establishment. 

The magical mill-turned-hotel’s unique origins were quite literally born out of a love story. If I’ve piqued your interest, you’ll have to head to the website and book a few nights, as the telling of its fairytale history is an indulgence reserved only for guests.

We were then treated to a relaxing 10-minute head and neck massage. When it was done, we floated back to the couch to test out a variety of unlabeled scents and to select a favorite for our rooms. The in-house spa’s menu has been specially curated for Molino de los Reyes and all its products are vegan and allergen-free.

We opted for a little tour of the property. Once a wheat mill, the gritty stone edifice is now flush with bright bougainvillea. If it weren’t for the cornfields surrounding the property, you’d think you were in the heart of Tuscany. 

The welcome massage and handpicked room scent will have you feeling like royalty at Molino de los Reyes. (Molino de Reyes/Facebook)

Molino’s award-winning restaurant is perched above a waterfall whose calming sound elevates your dining experience. The interior decor is quirky and vibrant, bursting with eclectic antique furniture. 

Loveliest of all was not the magenta accent wall or the custom-built indoor temazcal, though; these details come in a close second. It’s the staff.

By day two, my preference for lemon water had been noted, and it was waiting for me in the morning. The polite masseuse painstakingly removed cactus needles from my friend’s hand after a scrape with the pesky plant during a short hike. Management, including the owner and her family, took the time to speak with each and every guest during dining hours. It felt safe, comfortable and – dare I say it – full of love!

The family feel of Molino de los Reyes makes total sense: what started as the weekend home of owner Erika Cisneros’ grandparents eventually turned into a family business. 

On the menu at Molino de los Reyes, find a variety of flavors including Tlaxcala regional favorites and creative takes on Italian classics. (Molino de Reyes/Facebook)

Fragments of the clan’s history are sprinkled throughout the property: Erika’s father’s artwork hangs on the walls, furniture once belonging to her aunts and uncles fills the sitting areas and family recipes straight from the kitchens of her grandmother and great-grandmother are on the menu.

When I asked Erika her thoughts on taking over such a precious heirloom, her response was clear. 

“I’m happy, I’m thankful and I’m committed. When we decided to open this up to the public, our objective was to share what we had always enjoyed, to share the love story of my grandparents, and to share my family recipes. I want everything to be great: the hotel, the food, the staff; everything has to match the quality of the space.”

It’s a space you might not want to leave. 

But you should, since the hotel is just a 15-minute drive from the center of Tlaxcala, which is itself very charming. The biggest draw, I found, was the lack of foreign tourists. There were certainly visitors, but the visitors were Mexican, and we felt as if we had stumbled upon a hidden gem.

The historic center of Tlaxcala is located just 15 minutes from Molino de los Reyes. (Wikimedia Commons)

As a history nerd, the second biggest draw for me was being where the Indigenous Tlaxcaltecas forged the pivotal alliance with Hernán Cortés and Spain that would eventually lead to the defeat of the Mexica (also referred to as Aztecs) — a decision whose consequences last well into the present day.

The Tlaxcaltecas not only helped Spain defeat Tenochtitlán but would help them invade northern Mexico, Central America, and places as far away as the Philippines, earning privileges that they would keep throughout the colonial period.

The town square is tiny and, like one would expect from a quaint Mexican pueblo, brilliant and energetic. We perused an outdoor market, popped in to several lovely churches, stumbled upon a live saxophone concert and snuck pictures of our fair share of quinceañeras. (All my favorite things!)

There were plenty of restaurants where we could have dined and people-watched at our leisure, but the restaurant at Molino was so excellent it felt like sacrilege to skip a meal there.

Simple roasted shrimp at an upscale dining event at Tlaxcala’s Molino de los Reyes. (Molino de Reyes/Facebook)

Things to see in town:

The murals in the Government Palace: In the style of Diego Rivera but actually painted over 30 years by the equally-talented local artist Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin, another representative of Mexico’s muralist movement. 

Basilica of Our Lady of Ocotlán: An important pilgrimage site in Mexico, this gold-laden cathedral seems to also attract 15 year-olds in a variety of glittering princess dresses.

The Zócalo: on a weekend, catch the local textile market in Tlaxcala city’s downtown plaza. Odds are high that you’ll run into a local musical performance too.

Plaza de Toros: I’m having a hard time determining the functionality of this 19th-century bullring. I also know it’s controversial. However, the ring itself is impressive and can be seen from an overlook above. It’s worth a picture, if only for its sheer size.

Paseo de Tranvía: If leisure is what you’re after, hop on the tiny tourist tram that bobbles around town for an hour. Never a bad idea.

Sawdust carpet in Huamantla, Tlaxcala, Mexico
One of Huamantla, Tlaxcala’s famous sawdust carpets, created every August for its Noche Que Nadie Duerme (Night When No One Sleeps) festivities. Last year, the municipality attained a Guinness record for the longest sawdust carpet, at 3,939.53 meters long. (Photo: Webcams de México)

Things to see outside of town:

Cacaxtla Archeological Site: About 40 minutes from downtown Tlaxcala, history buffs will delight in one of Mesoamerica’s best preserved archaeological monuments and its still-intact and very colorful paintings.

Firefly Sanctuary: This is an all-around YES. Catch nature’s unforgettable light show between June and August at the sanctuary, one hour’s drive from the center of town.

Huamantla: Another reason to visit in August. This Pueblo Mágico, a mere 45 minutes away, celebrates Our Lady of Charity the Virgen de la Caridad with “The Night That No One Sleeps.” Streets are decorated with multicolored sawdust murals, and the Virgin Mary — adorned in tapestry and gold — is surrounded by a “carpet” of flowers, seeds, dried fruits and glass. Truly a sight to behold.

Bethany Platanella is a travel and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. With her company, Active Escapes International, she plans and leads private and small-group active retreats. She loves Mexico’s local markets, Mexican slang, practicing yoga and fresh tortillas.  Sign up for her (almost) weekly love letters or follow her Instagram account, @a.e.i.wellness

April registered lowest national homicide rate in 6 years

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Mexico Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodriguez
One of the statistics that Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez highlighted was that the daily average number of homicide victims has stayed the same or gone downward since 2018, when President López Obrador took office. (Presidencia)

Last month was Mexico’s least violent April in terms of homicides in six years, government data shows, but murders increased slightly in the first four months of 2023 compared to the same period of 2022.

Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez presented data at President López Obrador’s press conference on Tuesday that showed there were 2,428 homicides in April, a 5.1% decline compared to the same month of 2022.

Santiago neighborhood in Merida, Mexico
Yucatán (home to Mérida, pictured here) had Mexico’s fewest homicides between January and April, according to the Security Ministry. It only had 12 in the year’s first four months. (Jorge Zapata/Unsplash)

The last time there were fewer homicides in the month of April was 2017, when there were 2,104.

Last month was the fifth least violent month in terms of homicides since López Obrador took office in December 2018. The least violent was February 2022, with 2,258 homicides.

Data presented by Rodríguez also showed that there were 9,912 homicides between January and April, a 0.3% increase compared to the same period of 2022.

There have been an average of 83 homicides per day so far this year, a 7% decrease compared to the daily average across 2022 and a 17% decline compared to 2019, the government’s first full year in office.

Homicide numbers for Mexico 1990-2023
Security Ministry numbers show that homicide numbers per year during President López Obrador’s presidency have been trending downward but have a long way to go to return to the numbers of his predecessors. The divisions begin with each president’s first full year as president, with the exception of Carlos Salinas.

Rodríguez said that 47.3% of all homicides in the first four months of the year occurred in just six states. Guanajuato was the most violent state with 1,084 homicides followed by México state, with 917; Baja California, with 721; Chihuahua, with 694; Jalisco, with 672; and Michoacán, with 600.

Violence in Guanajuato, which has been Mexico’s most violent state in recent years, is concentrated in a relatively small number of municipalities where rival criminal groups frequently clash.

According to the elcri.men crime data website, nine Guanajuato municipalities are among the 50 most violent in the country based on per-capita homicide rates over the past 12 months. They are Pueblo Nuevo (No. 1); Salvatierra (8); Tarimoro (11); San Francisco del Rincón (31); Celaya (33); Villagrán (36); Purísima del Rincón (41); Salamanca (46); and Valle de Santiago (49).

The least violent state between January and April was Yucatán, where just 12 homicides were recorded, followed by Baja California Sur with 15 murders and Aguascalientes with 37.

Funeral of Terea Mayegual, killed madre buscadora in Guanajuato
Funeral for Teresa Mayegual, a madre buscadora (searching mother of the disappeared) who herself was shot dead by an unknown killer while riding her bicycle in Celaya, Guanajuato, earlier this month. According to the elcrim.en website, Celaya is one of nine Guanajuato state cities and towns on its list of the 50 most violent in Mexico. (Diego Costa Costa/Cuartoscuro)

Rodríguez also presented data for a range of other crimes. Among those that declined in the first four months of the year compared to the same period of 2022 were femicides (the killing of women and girls on account of their gender), financial crimes, organized crime offenses, robberies of businesses, muggings, extortion and cattle theft.

Among those that increased were firearms offenses, tax crimes and robbery of transport trucks.

Rodríguez highlighted that robberies in general declined 29.2% in April compared to December 2018, the month the government took office, while vehicle theft fell 50.2% to 7,173 reported incidents last month. The security minister said that fewer vehicles were stolen in April than any other month on record.

Data showed that there were 72 kidnappings in April, compared to 49 in the same month last year and 172 in December 2018. There were 60 femicides last month compared to 88 in April 2022 and 101 during the government’s first month in office.

“We’re going to continue working with the women’s institutes, with the National Commission to Prevent and Eradicate Violence Against Women, … in order to continue reducing this crime,” Rodríguez said.

Mexico News Daily 

Over 2,400 migrants expelled to Mexico since expiration of US Title 42

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Migrants at the US-Mexico border in Tijuana on May 11.
The transition from Title 42 rapid deportation to Title 8 processes, which impose harsher penalties for attempted re-entry, has gone smoothly according to the U.S. and Mexican governments. (Omar Martínez/Cuartoscuro)

The United States has expelled at least 2,400 migrants to Mexico since the pandemic-era immigration restrictions known as Title 42 expired on Thursday night.

These deportations use another set of immigration laws known as Title 8. Although some of the migrants affected are Mexican citizens, the majority are from countries such as Cuba, Venezuela, Haiti, Nicaragua and other Central American nations.

Migrants being transported from Reynosa to interior of Mexico by immigration authorities
U.S. Customs and Border Protection shared this image of Mexican authorities transporting migrants from Reynosa after being expelled from the U.S. last weekend. (CBP/Twitter)

In a bilateral agreement announced in January, Mexico agreed to accept up to 30,000 foreign migrants expelled from the U.S. per month, or around 1,000 a day. These include migrants who accept “voluntary return” to Mexico rather than undergoing deportation proceedings, an option previously only available to Mexican citizens.

“This is the first time the Government of Mexico has accepted returns of non-Mexican nationals at our land border under Title 8 processes. And that’s been working well over the last few days,” said Blas Nuñez-Neto, assistant secretary for border policy at the Department of Homeland Security.

The names of Titles 42 and 8 both refer to the U.S. Code, which categorizes all permanent federal laws. Title 42 of the Code, which covers public health, includes a 1944 law that empowers the President to prohibit the entry into the U.S. of citizens of foreign countries whenever the Surgeon General determines “the existence of any communicable disease” in those countries that poses a “serious danger” to public health.

Unlike Title 42, which allowed U.S. authorities to immediately expel undocumented migrants without recourse to an asylum hearing, under Title 8, asylum seekers must be granted at least an initial interview.

INM and Guardia Nacional agents move migrants in Tapachula.
The National Guard has been deployed to assist with migrant processing in Tapachula, Chiapas. (DAMIÁN SÁNCHEZ/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

However, in a move that has faced legal challenges from the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), the Biden administration has made it much harder for migrants to claim asylum by prohibiting asylum to migrants who have transited through another country where they could have made a claim.

Moreover, asylum seekers are obligated to apply for asylum interviews via the CBP One app, a platform that has been criticized for its bugs. According to CBP (Customs and Border Protection), over 83,000 individuals have successfully used the app in its first four months of operation.

The UN Human Rights Commissioner and Human Rights Watch have both expressed concern about how these policies will affect the rights of asylum-seekers, and Amnesty International has characterized the mandatory use of CBP One as the sole means of seeking asylum in the US as a “clear violation of international law.” 

Under Title 8, if their U.S. claim is rejected, migrants may be deported and banned from entering the U.S. for another five years, and criminally prosecuted if they attempt reentry. Under Title 42 expulsions, migrants were not further penalized for attempted reentry, although, according to medical anthropologist and migration writer Levi Vonk, CBP has regularly applied five-year bans – technically called expedited removal – to migrants “since at least the Obama administration,” a practice which continued under Title 42.

“It seems that Title 8 will issue five-year bans across the board no matter what, whereas before, although the bans were issued widely, they were not issued unanimously or in a standardized way,” Vonk told Mexico News Daily. “Title 8 standardizes a practice that was already in place.”

US President Biden with cabinet members
President Joe Biden in a Thursday meeting with Secretary of State Antony Blinken (left) and Secretary of the Department of Homeland Security Alejandro Mayorkas (on Blinken’s right) to regional migration management policies. (The White House/Twitter)

However, U.S. border authorities report they have seen a 50% drop in border crossings since Title 42 expired: from more than 10,000 encounters per day in the middle of last week to 4,200 on Saturday.

Likewise, Mexican Foreign Minister Marcelo Ebrard said on Friday that the end of Title 42 had gone smoothly, with no reports of “confrontations or situations of violence at the border,” despite an estimated 15,500 migrants in the region hoping to cross.

This was in stark contrast to fears raised over previous weeks that Title 42’s expiration could trigger chaotic scenes at the border, with even greater numbers of migrants seeking asylum.

“It is still early. We are in day three. But we have been planning for this transition for months and months,” U.S. Homeland Security Secretary Alejandro Mayorkas said on Sunday.

Preparations have included “dissuasive patrols” by the Mexican National Guard (GN) at the northern border, aimed at avoiding confrontations with groups of migrants.

Last week, President López Obrador announced stepping up National Guard presence on Mexico’s southern border, emphasizing that members of the GN were instructed to “not use force” with migrants, who have continued arriving in large numbers.

The New York Times reported that, according to National Immigration Institute (INM) data, Mexico issued 30,000 humanitarian visas in Chiapas from April 2 to May 3, which is triple the monthly average.

With reports from Reforma, Reuters and CBS

Mexico protests Texas’ resumption of truck border inspections

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Delays at the Matamoros/Brownsville border
The increased scrutiny of vehicles crossing into the U.S from Mexico has led to delays lasting up to 27 hours, say Mexican authorities. (US CBP)

The Economy Ministry (SE) has urged the government of Texas to cease inspections of cargo at the Matamoros-Brownsville border crossing, asserting that the measure is causing large financial losses for both Mexican and United States companies.

In a statement issued Monday, the SE expressed “serious concerns” about inspections of northbound freight trucks and urged their removal. It said that the inspections began on May 8, three days before the expiration of the United States pandemic-era Title 42 migration expulsion policy.

Colorful but worn tents in front of the Rio Grande, with a highway overpass in the background.
Inspections by the state of Texas reportedly began on May 8, shortly before Title 42 COVID-19 immigration restrictions were lifted, as large numbers of migrants congregated at border crossings in Mexico. (Cuartoscuro.com)

The ministry said that the federal government would file a complaint with the Trade Facilitation Committee established by Mexico, the United States and Canada when they entered into the free-trade pact known as USMCA in 2020.

The SE said that the objective of the inspections at the Matamoros-Brownsville crossing was to combat the smuggling of migrants, but asserted that “sub-national governments” don’t have the authority to take action against that crime.

The “actions” implemented by the Texas government “are motivated by an anti-Mexican vision that is far removed from the social, cultural and economic integration between Mexico and Texas,” it said.

“Suffice to say, our country is the main trade partner of that state, and this relationship is worth an average of US $231 billion a year.”

A car passes through a scanner along the U.S. border.
Vehicles entering Mexico are usually subject to scrutiny — such as this car in 2022 — but recent, more stringent security checks of cargo trucks, which sometimes carry illegal migrants over the border, have caused severe delays at the Brownsville crossing. (Josh Denmark/U.S. CBP)

The SE said that Texas’ inspections are causing delays of eight to 27 hours for northbound freight trucks, a wait that “mainly affects perishable products.”

The inspections are causing losses in the millions of dollars for both Mexican and U.S. companies, the ministry said.

“It is United States consumers who pay the price of these policies; … It’s in everyone’s interests to reestablish normality at the border,” the SE said.

The Economy Ministry said it has “initiated constructive dialogue with the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) to find a solution to a problem that, we recognize, is caused by a sub-national authority.”

The SE, the statement added, expressed its concerns in a May 12 call with the USTR and “emphasized that these obstacles to trade are incompatible with the existing market access agreements between Mexico and the United States.”

“In coming days, the government of Mexico will submit the case to the USMCA Trade Facilitation Committee,” the ministry said.

A stringent inspection policy for commercial vehicles enacted last year by the Texas government to detect drugs and migrants trying to enter the U.S. illegally also caused long delays at the border and heavy financial losses.

That policy came to an end eight days after it was implemented in April 2022 thanks to agreements that governors of Mexican border states reached with Texas Governor Greg Abbott, who accuses the United States government and President Joe Biden of failing to secure the border with Mexico.

Mexico News Daily 

In Yucatán, teachers prepare small villages for a big train’s changes

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Leobardo saluting
Leobardo Cox Tec, a teacher of traditional jaraná dancing, salutes the crowd as he utters the famous phrase ‘and now let the jarána begin’ at this year’s Vaquería festival.

Teachers from a remote village in the state of Yucatán have returned home to rescue fading traditions and prepare for drastic changes they believe will be brought on by the arrival of the Maya Train. 

Opponents of the 948-mile-long railway megaproject connecting the country’s neglected and impoverished southeast say the Maya Train is environmentally destructive, will expropriate community lands and will infringe on indigenous rights. They claim it will promote harmful patterns of unsustainable development with industries like tourism and logging. 

Maya train construction site
The Maya Train project runs close to several small villages throughout the Yucatán peninsula. Critics believe it will negatively affect their culture and traditions.

The proposed December completion date leaves surrounding rural villages with little time to adapt to the imminent increase of visitors and to protect their treasured traditions from becoming commercialized folklore. 

Yet in Yaxcabá, near Chichen Itzá (18 miles away) and a town of only 3,000 people, some locals are fighting back to prevent what they fear will be the misrepresentation of their heritage.

“Mayan culture today is endangered on two fronts: a lack of interest and its commercialization,” said Leobardo Cox Tec, 26, a Yaxcabá local and a third-generation Yucatec jarána instructor. 

The traditional music and dance has been performed by the Maya since the colonial era. 

Leobardo Cox Tec’s jaraná students prepare for the annual Vaquería festival in their hometown of Yaxcabá, Yucatán.

“We need to find a balance where tourists experience our traditions in their original context.

Yucatec jarána is traced back to the 17th century, when Spanish colonizers gradually integrated their European customs with the existing indigenous and mixed-race cultures. This created a unique fusion of music and dance that became part of the identity of Yucatán and was passed down through oral tradition. An age-old phrase, “and now let the jarána begin,” continues to launch popular festivals today, with the entire village dancing once the announcement is made. 

The music has a bright and percussive sound well-suited to its lively rhythms, with counts of six by eight or three by four. Dancers make pairs or small groups and perform a series of moves involving intricate footwork with complex choreography that can take years of training to master.

Cox Tec’s earliest memories involve dancing at 6 years old to jarána on the radio in his grandfather’s house. As one of the main jaráneros in the village, his grandfather taught him all he could to help him achieve a dance diploma from the University of Bellas Artes in Izamal, Yucatán, in 2017. Cox Tec now has over a decade of teaching under his belt.

A Maya festival in the Yucatán
Village festivals in Yucatán are mostly inaugurated with Yucatec jarána and dance, which dates back to the 17th century.

“The music was always playing in the background in his house, so I always associated it with happiness and family,” said the young but experienced dance tutor. “By the time I was old enough to take serious lessons from my grandfather, jarána was part of my soul.”

Cox Tec believes youngsters are abandoning the dance played at most Yucatec village festivals in favor of more commercialized versions performed for small groups of tourists. He claims dance schools in the state capital, Merida, fail to teach the traditions of “real jaráneros” like his grandfather. 

Jarána is a manifestation of our identity as Maya people, but the lure of the city offers more money to become a performer,” he said. “Consequently, a tradition with its origins in the villages is at risk of being replaced by a plastic version. Commercialized classes leave out moves that have existed for hundreds of years as vital components of jarána because they are not considered popular for tourists. This mentality causes cultural erosion.” 

Leobardo offers classes free to locals as his grandfather did before him, and feels he follows the legacy he has inherited. His two dozen or so students train up to five times a week for a whole year to perform in the largest annual festival in Yaxcabá – the Vaquería (a Yucatec-style rodeo). 

According to him, the ideal scenario for visitors to experience Mayan culture at its roots is through sustainable tourism that gives something back to rural villages. 

“This would provide a better experience for everyone involved,” said Cox Tec. “Young people would also be encouraged to learn the music and dance in its correct context rather than aspire to perform for an exclusive crowd for a few extra pesos.” 

“Jarána has always been a vocation and a way of life,” he added. “Preparing local dance groups for the village festivals like the Vaquería is intertwined with our Mayan heritage, but that culture is rapidly dying out. We should not be at war with modernization, but we need to find a compromise.”

Another teacher from Yaxcabá, Don Milner Pacab Alcocer, 52, has grown up speaking Maya and has taught the language for 26 years. It is Mexico’s second most widely used indigenous language behind Nahuatl and may originate from an ancestral version spoken some 5,000 years ago, known as Proto-Mayan

Don Milner with a group of Maya
Don Milner Pacab Alcocer (center) wants his students to reconnect with their elders in their native Maya tongue instead of in Spanish.

Today, there are around 500,000 speakers in Yucatán, according to the government’s National Institute of Indigenous Languages ​​(INALI). Yet the southern state registered the second largest decline of native speakers in the country, with nearly 20,000 fewer speakers than the previous census. 

This puts the Maya language in “medium risk degree of disappearance,” Inali has warned.

According to Pacab, the rapid decline of the Maya language in urban areas forced him to work in the city of Mérida when he finished his teacher training. Despite his protests that his village also had few Mayan speakers, authorities gave him a choice: teach in the city or relinquish his diploma. 

In response, Pacab decided he would give free weekend Mayan language classes to his community in order to restore local pride in what used to be their native tongue.

Pacab’s students take part in a learning game where the penalty for failing to keep the cloth straight involves a short conversation in Maya.

“Colonial Spaniards came and told us our language and culture was worthless,” he said. “Mayan was considered the language of the poor and ignorant that had to give it up to avoid damnation. It is an emotional burden for our people that continues to this day. 

“Speaking Mayan was restricted behind closed doors at home, and what we want now is for it to flow in the streets.”

Pacab said he and many others suffered from a domino effect as children, where it was considered embarrassing to speak Mayan because of the prejudice against it. Youngsters were rarely encouraged to pick it up and were spoken to in Spanish, despite their grandparents conversing in Mayan between themselves. 

Pacab feels, although middle-aged people living in villages may know a few words and phrases, they tend to stick to Spanish and make little effort to recognize their national identity. As a result, most Yaxcabá inhabitants under the age of 30 neither speak nor understand Mayan. Another hurdle facing the restoration of the language in remote villages is that most of the elderly generation who know the language cannot read or write it. 

Pacab said conversing in Maya is still sometimes scorned by the community because it is considered detrimental towards finding employment that requires exclusively Spanish speakers.

“Some believe the only way to survive in the city is to forget where you come from,” he said. “When the elderly Maya speakers pass away, nobody will remain to teach the next generation. It is a tragedy that the language could die out because of this reason. Maya contains a complex structure that rivals any language while offering a window into an ancient culture that was never completely eradicated but placed on the sidelines.” 

“Language is like a tree with many branches,” he said. “Each one can represent music, dance, theater and poetry.”

“Without it,” he added, “many things will be lost. But I hope the message gets out there that our traditions are in danger of disappearing.”

Mark Viales writes for Mexico News Daily.