Tuesday, June 17, 2025

Huckster, madman, candidate: the unusual life of Nicolás Zuñiga

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Historian Borja Torres portrayed Nicolás Zuñiga y Miranda as a calm gentleman who went crazy each election year, entering a state of fury in his desire to be president. (National Archives)

One of the most colorful — and perhaps tragic — characters in the political history of Mexico was Don Nicolás Zúñiga y Miranda. Known as the “perpetual candidate,” he ran for president nine times in 30 years (1894–1924), never garnering more than a few thousand votes. 

After each defeat, he would declare electoral fraud and announce that he was the “legitimate president” of Mexico.

Zúñiga y Miranda was born in Zacatecas in 1865 and studied jurisprudence in Mexico City, although there is no evidence he ever practiced law. He first rose to fame in 1887 when he claimed he had invented a machine — the seismeon — that could predict earthquakes. With chance in his favor, he successfully predicted an earthquake in 1887. 

Shortly afterward, he predicted a second earthquake would happen on August 10 of the same year, one that he said would cause the Popocatépetl volcano to erupt and would destroy Mexico City.

People panicked, abandoned their homes and left the city or gathered in squares and parks on the designated day. But when the earthquake didn’t occur, an angry mob delivered Zúñiga y Miranda a public beating that sent him to the hospital. 

He disappeared from public view for a while, then suddenly reappeared in 1896, announcing he would run as “the people’s candidate” against President Porfirio Díaz.

Mexican president Porfirio Diaz
Zuñiga y Miranda ran for president against Porfirio Díaz four times, and twice the dictator jailed him. (National Archives)

A group of men opposed to Díaz told Zúñiga y Miranda that they would back him, hoping that he could defeat Mexico’s dictator, who had been elected in 1876 and with the exception of a few years where he was ousted, had stayed in power ever since. 

But Díaz arrested Zúñiga y Miranda and imprisoned him a month before the election, releasing him only after the election was over and Díaz had been reelected.

After his release, Zúñiga y Miranda founded the newspaper La Voz Zúñiguista (The Voice of Zúñiga) and published an article titled “I Am the President.” Upon seeing it, Díaz was enraged and ordered that Zúñiga y Miranda be sent back to prison for another six months. 

Upon this release from prison, however, it became obvious that the months of solitary confinement had impaired Zuñiga y Miranda’s mental faculties. The people started referring to him as el loco.

But he was persistent and continued to run for president as an independent candidate. He ran against Díaz four times, as well as against Francisco Madero (1911), Venustiano Carranza (1917), Álvaro Obregón (1920) and Plutarco Elías Calles (1924). 

He was also a candidate in 1914. Mexican presidential elections have always been contentious, but 1914 was one of the most interesting scenarios.

In his earlier political life, Zuñiga y Miranda did attract some support for his campaign, but he never got more than a few thousand votes. (National Archives)

Francisco I. Madero was elected president in 1911 but assassinated in 1913 by Victoriano Huerta, who then took his place as president. People in the capital were so angry that they voted for Zúñiga y Miranda instead, even though he was by then a known loco.

He received more votes than Huerta, but there were other contenders in the race, and the Mexican Revolution had just entered a new stage of warring factions. The election was annulled, and Zuñiga y Miranda lost yet again.

After each defeat, he would declare electoral fraud and insist he was the legitimate president. 

According to Ecuadorian historian Rodrigo Borja Torres, author of a biography of Zúñiga y Miranda, newspapers of the time wrote that “Díaz realized that Zúñiga was not a danger to him… The political class took [his candidacy] more as a joke.”

But Zúñiga y Miranda kept declaring himself the “legitimate president” and walked the streets of Mexico City greeting people as if he were. It made him a source of amusement and derision: people would mockingly greet him with “How are you today, Mr. President?” or “Good morning, Mr. President.”

Diego Rivera mural
Zuñiga y Miranda was famous enough that Diego Rivera included him in his mural filled with figures from Mexican history. He is the figure in the foreground touching his top hat. (INBAL/Twitter)

Historians say that in moments of lucidity, his proposals were populist in nature. During his one-man campaigns for president — he had no staff and he did no debates — he promised that if he won, eggs would cost two centavos, rents would drop by 80% and students would have open accounts at the best restaurants and free scholarships to study abroad. 

He had no real proposals for achieving these lofty promises.

Historian William H. Beazley recounts that Zúñiga y Miranda was sincere in his awareness of social problems of the time and thought that  poverty, especially rural poverty, impeded the nation’s progress.

But at one point, he proposed teaching jiu-jitsu tactics to the Mexican army. He also suggested a meeting of municipal authorities to analyze the effect the stars had on international politics.

During World War I, he announced he was organizing a séance — he called himself a spiritualist — in order to invoke the spirits of Aristotle, the King of Spain, the Kaiser of Germany, the King of England and the Tsar of Russia as a way to achieve peace in Europe.

And so he became famous as the “perpetual candidate.” Historians have studied him with great curiosity, books have been written about his life, newspapers have likened him to Don Quixote de la Mancha and his character makes an appearance in Juan Bastillo Oro’s 1944 film “Mexico of my Memories.”

Death notice of Nicolas Zuniga y Miranda in 1925
The “perpetual candidate” had found enough fame throughout his life that his death in 1925 warranted a notice on the front page of the newspaper El Universal. (El Universal)

Zúñiga y Miranda was also immortalized by Diego Rivera in 1947 in his mural “Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park,” where he is pictured speaking with Porfirio Díaz while a newsboy stands behind them holding up a newspaper announcing Zúñiga y Miranda’s candidacy for president. 

Was he a madman or just another politician obsessed with becoming president? Probably both.

Historian Borja Torres portrayed him as a calm gentleman who would go crazy each election year and enter a state of fury in his desire to be president.

Perhaps historian Guillermo Mellado in his book “Don Nicolás de México” best sums up his life with this anecdote:

One morning, Zúñiga y Miranda awakened early. Still in his underwear, he went to the dresser and removed a tricolor sash from a drawer. Reverently, he crossed it over his chest, turning from side to side in front of a mirror to admire his reflection.

When his landlady walked in, he told her, “Don’t go. I called you because I wanted you to be the first lady to recognize me as the President of the Republic.”

In 1925, an impoverished Zúñiga y Miranda died in the Mexico City neighborhood of La Merced. Although he had made a career of running for president, he never achieved his dream of actually becoming the president of Mexico.

Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher. She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán in 2021 and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.

Heat wave pushes temperatures up to 45 C in parts of Mexico

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A woman dances in a fountain during a heatwave
In Mexico City, some are taking to public fountains in an effort to escape the punishing heat. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)

The third heat wave of the year currently sweeping Mexico is expected to bring scorching temperatures across the country.

Temperatures of up to 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees Fahrenheit) are expected in 24 of Mexico’s 32 states. 

Conagua heat map
Government forecasts show that temperatures are likely to be above 40 degrees across nearly all of the country. (Conagua)

Only the central states of Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, Guanajuato, Querétaro, México state and Puebla will escape the most punishing heat — although temperatures are still expected to rise to as high as 40 C. Tlaxcala and Mexico City expect temperatures to remain between 30 and 35 degrees Celsius.

Rains, hail and thunderstorms are also forecast in Campeche, Chiapas, Quintana Roo and Yucatán. Heavy rainfall could increase river and stream levels and lead to flooding and landslides in these areas. 

Faced with these extreme conditions, the National Meteorological Service (SMN) has issued warnings urging residents to take all necessary precautions, stay informed on weather conditions and follow prevention measures issued by Civil Protection authorities. These measures include staying hydrated and avoiding prolonged sun exposure.

The extreme temperatures that began on June 1 have caused at least one death. A 78-year-old woman in Hermosillo, Sonora passed away while walking outdoors, according to the newspaper El País.

The extreme weather conditions are caused by El Niño, a climate pattern characterized by the warming of ocean surface temperatures. It occurs cyclically in the Pacific Ocean and has a significant impact on global weather patterns, causing altered rainfall, droughts, floods and temperature shifts.

With reports from El Economista and El País

Mexican film production broke records again in 2022

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Despite a decline in funding, Mexican cinema remains stronger than ever, after another record year. (Chris Murray/Unsplash)

Mexico produced more films than ever in 2022, despite an increasingly difficult funding environment caused by reductions in government support for the industry.

In its Statistical Yearbook of Mexican Cinema, the Mexican Institute of Cinematography (Imcine) recorded 258 Mexican feature films produced in 2022, surpassing the previous record set in 2021.

Mexican film production
Production levels in the Mexican cinema industry have continued to rise, though the industry remains Mexico City-centric. (Imcine)

“For the second consecutive year after the pandemic, when production collapsed, the indexes have risen sharply, and this year, the number of feature films is 258,” Imcine General Director María Novaro said.

“[This is] a number similar to last year, and a record for Mexican cinema throughout its history. Not even in the golden age [of Mexican cinema, from the 1930s to about 1960] was so much cinema produced.”

Novaro said that the increased number of productions over the last two years demonstrated real growth in the sector, not just a return to pre-pandemic levels. Film production rebounded 133% between 2020 and 2021, but those sorts of numbers hadn’t been expected to last into 2022.

Novaro also praised the diversity in Mexico’s film industry, claiming it is “more diverse, inclusive, egalitarian and decentralized than ever.” She highlighted that 21 feature films were made by indigenous or Afro-descendant filmmakers in 2022 — although this is a drop from the 31 such productions in 2021.

A man with a camera
Targeted incentives could help attract film production companies from the U.S., says a recent report by UK-based Olsberg SPI. (Ruben Ramirez/Olsberg SPI)

One hundred forty-two of these films, or about 55%, were made in Mexico City in 2022, up from 35% in 2021, suggesting that Mexico is still struggling to decentralize the industry. However, 2022 did see an increase in films made by women, from 25% to 32%.

The explosion of Mexican cinema has taken place despite an increasingly difficult funding environment. In 2022, 46% of Mexican films relied on some public financial support, but government support for the industry has been sharply reduced under President López Obrador’s austerity measures, which have cut arts and culture funding down to just 0.25% of the federal budget, according to the Mexican think-tank Fundar. That is the lowest figure seen in decades.

In November, the Mexican Academy of Cinematographic Arts and Sciences (AMACC) said it will suspend the 2023 Ariel Awards because of a “serious financial crisis” as a result of these cuts.

“The state, which was the motor and support of the academy for a long time, has renounced its responsibility as the main promoter and disseminator of culture in general, and of cinema in particular,” the AMACC said at the time.

International analysts have also suggested that a lack of financial incentives is holding back Mexico’s film industry. In late May, the international creative consultancy Olsberg SPI said that Mexico could become a global audiovisual production hub if it offered federal production incentives such as cash rebates or tax credits. 

The Olsberg report also said that Mexico’s talent base, relatively low costs, infrastructure and proximity to the United States were highly attractive to foreign production companies, and the country would be “primed for immediate growth” if these incentives were introduced.

With reports from Sin Embargo and Infobae

After threats, Tijuana mayor will reside in military barracks

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Tijuana Mayor Montserrat Caballero
Tijuana Mayor Montserrat Caballero said that the move was a "sacrifice," but explained, "I have a child, I have a family and I have a commitment to my city." (Montserrat Caballero/Facebook)

With her life apparently at risk, the mayor of Tijuana is moving into military barracks in the northern border city.

Morena party Mayor Montserrat Caballero announced Monday that she will live in barracks in the south of the city for an undefined period after receiving threats from presumed members of crime gangs.

Arrest in Tijuana
The mayor says her life is being threatened by criminals because she is taking them off Tijuana’s streets. Her city has the most homicides in all Mexico.

She attributed the threats to the positive security results the Tijuana government has achieved since she took office in late 2021.

“Why am I receiving threats? Because we deliver results,” Caballero told a press conference.

The mayor said that Tijuana police have detained thousands of alleged criminals since she was sworn in and have seized more firearms than any other force in the country.

Caballero also said that personnel with the National Guard — under the army’s control —suggested that she move to the barracks for security reasons.

“I hope that it’s temporary,” she said.

“… It’s not [about] the protection of an [ordinary] citizen, it’s the protection of the citizen that has seized the most weapons of [the past] three administrations,” she said.

Tijuana Mayor Montserrat Caballero and U.S. Ambassador to Mexico Ken Salazar
Caballero, seen here with U.S. Ambassador to Mexico Ken Salazar, must navigate not only constituent satisfaction but also the relationships between her border city and the U.S. (Montserrat Caballero/Twitter)

Caballero, who admitted to being afraid and concerned about her safety, described her decision to move to the barracks as a “sacrifice.”

“I have a child, I have a family and I have a commitment to my city,” she said.

Her announcement on Monday came almost four weeks after a vehicle in which one of her bodyguards was traveling was shot at. The man suffered minor injuries caused by broken glass. The Baja California Attorney General’s Office is investigating the incident.

As Tijuana’s mayor since 2021, her tenure has not been without controversy. In 2022, in response to a wave of organized crime violence in her city, she released a video in which she told criminals to “only make those who owe you debts pay,” i.e., not ordinary Tijuana citizens. Critics said that her statement was turning a blind eye to criminal behavior.

Tijuana Mayor Montserrat Caballero, center
Following a wave of violence in her city in 2022, Caballero made a statement directed at organized crime via video that provoked controversy. She told criminals to target “those who owe you debts,” not bystanders. (Tijuana City Council)

In response to criticism, Caballero said that her words were taken out of context.

While data presented by Mayor Caballero shows that some crimes — including business robberies and vehicle theft — have declined in Tijuana, the city remains Mexico’s murder capital. Drug cartels covet control over Tijuana due to its proximity to the United States.

There were over 1,800 homicides in Tijuana between June 2022 and May 2023, according to statistics presented by federal Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez at President López Obrador’s morning press conference on Tuesday.

That figure is almost double the number of homicides in the same period in Ciudad Juárez, Mexico’s second most violent city over the past year.

With reports from El País, Infobae and El Financiero

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbuam announces resignation

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Claudia Sheinbaum
Mexico City's mayor Claudia Sheinbaum announced she would step down on Friday to focus on winning the Morena party nomination for 2024. (Daniel Augusto / Cuartoscuro.com)

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum announced Monday that she will step down on Friday to focus on securing the ruling Morena party’s nomination for the 2024 presidential election.

Under selection process rules approved at a meeting of the Morena National Council on Sunday, aspirants to the party’s candidacy must resign their positions this week. The winner of a polling process will be announced on Sept. 6.

Morena candidates at council meeting
Sheinbaum (center) with other Morena party aspirants for the nomination, from left to right, Marcelo Ebrard, Adán Augusto López and Ricardo Monreal. (CNM/Twitter)

Speaking at a press event in the capital, Sheinbaum said her aim is to become “the first woman in the history of Mexico to lead the fate of the nation.”

She also said she wanted “provide continuity” with her “own stamp” to the “transformation” of Mexico initiated by President López Obrador.

Sheinbaum, a physicist and engineer who was a member of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change that won the Nobel Peace Prize in 2007, said that she is the only Morena presidential aspirant with a scientific background.

“I’ve participated in the fight for the rights of the people of Mexico, democracy, freedom, social and environmental justice and women’s rights since I was 15 years old,” she added.

Campaign slogan on building
The “#EsClaudia” (“It’s Claudia”) slogan has been appearing around the country in support of the aspiring candidate. (Graciela López Herrera / Cuartoscuro.com)

Sheinbaum, who will outline her achievements of the past 4 1/2 years in an address on Thursday, also said that “the time for women” has arrived. It is not yet clear who will replace her as mayor of Mexico City.

Sheinbaum, who was chief of the Mexico City borough of Tlapan between 2015 and 2017 and served as environment minister in the 2000-2005 Mexico City government led by López Obrador, is considered the leading Morena aspirant among a field of four main “pre-candidates” and two peripheral ones.

The results of a recent Reforma newspaper poll showed that she was the preferred Morena candidate of 31% of respondents, while 26% nominated Marcelo Ebrard, who resigned as foreign minister on Monday.

The other aspirants to the ruling party’s candidacy are Interior Minister Adán Augusto López Hernández, Senator Ricardo Monreal, Labor Party Deputy Gerardo Fernández Noroña and Green Party Senator Manuel Velasco.

The presidential election will be held on June 2, 2024, with the successful candidate to take office four months later.

Party leaders of the opposition Va por México alliance said last week that they would announce their candidate selection method by June 26.

With reports from El País

AMLO names former UN official as Mexico’s new foreign affairs head

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Mexico's foreign minister Alicia Barcena
Alicia Bárcena was the executive secretary of the UN Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC) between 2008 and 2022. She's currently Mexico's ambassador to Chile. (Rogelio Morales Ponce/Cuartoscuro)

President López Obrador announced Tuesday that former United Nations official Alicia Bárcena will replace Marcelo Ebrard as foreign affairs minister.

Bárcena, who was executive secretary of the UN Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC) between 2008 and 2022 and is currently Mexico’s ambassador to Chile, will assume the role in 10 days, the president said.

President Lopez Obrador with photo of Alicia Bárcena
President López Obrador announced Bárcena’s appointment Tuesday morning at his daily press conference. Bárcena’s naming to the post must be ratified by the Senate. (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

“She has an extensive career in the field of diplomacy. She is a very intelligent and capable woman,” López Obrador said.

He said that Deputy Foreign Affairs Minister Carmen Moreno Toscano will take charge of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in the period before Bárcena starts.

The appointment of the new foreign minister, which must be ratified by the Senate, comes after Ebrard stepped down on Monday to focus on campaigning for the Morena nomination for the 2024 presidential election.

López Obrador will also have to replace Interior Minister Adán Augusto López Hernández as he too is vying to secure Morena’s candidacy, and under Morena’s selection process rules, he must resign this week.

Mexico's President Lopez Obrador, left, with Alicia Barcena
“She’s a professional, a diplomat, a woman with convictions, with principles,” said President López Obrador, seen here with Bárcena at the UN Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean Summit in 2022. (Presidencia)

With Bárcena as foreign minister, Mexico will be “well-represented” on the world stage, the president said.

“She’s a professional, a diplomat, a woman with convictions, with principles, and she will help us in this last stretch in government,” said López Obrador, whose six-year term ends Oct. 1, 2024.

He also said she is well-known in the entire region of Latin America and the Caribbean as a result of her work with ECLAC.

Bárcena studied biology at the National Autonomous University and later completed a Master in Public Administration degree at Harvard University. She was a deputy environment minister in the federal government in the 1980s before becoming head of the National Institute of Fishing near the end of that decade.

Alicia Barcena with Cofepris officials in Mexico
Bárcena, who studied biology at the National Autonomous University, visiting Mexico’s health regulator, Cofepris, on Saturday to discuss the creation of pan-Latin American and Caribbean medications agency. (Alicia Bárcena/Twitter)

Bárcena has also worked in academia, and held other high-ranking United Nations positions before becoming ECLAC chief. She served as acting chef de cabinet in the office of former UN secretary-general Kofi Annan in the mid 2000s, and as under-secretary-general for management during the tenure of Ban Ki-moon.

After a long career in the United Nations, Bárcena took up the position of ambassador to Chile last September, becoming Mexico’s first female head of mission in the South American country.

She replaces a foreign minister who became well known on the world stage, as Ebrard stood in for López Obrador at numerous international meetings, forums and summits.

One of Bárcena’s main responsibilities will be to collaborate with United States officials on shared challenges, including immigration flows through Mexico to the U.S. and the fight against the smuggling of narcotics and firearms.

Mexico's new foreign minister, left, Alicia Barcena, greets outgoing foreign minister Marcelo Ebrard
Outgoing Foreign Minister Marcelo Ebrard described Bárcena’s 14-year tenure at the ECLAC as “brilliant.” (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)

In a Twitter post, Ebrard congratulated his successor and wished her well in her new role.

“Alicia collaborated closely with us during her brilliant tenure at the head of ECLAC and showed her ability and commitment to the best causes,” he wrote.

With reports from Reforma and El Universal 

Wasting away again in Ajijic

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The Margaritaville website says the community will have a total of 192 residences plus "resort-style amenities and an island-inspired feel." (margaritaville.com)

“It’s in the tropics somewhere between the Port of Indecision and Southwest of Disorder, but no parallels of latitude or longitude mark the spot exactly. You don’t have to be a navigator to get there. Palm trees provide the camouflage…”

Singer Jimmy Buffett

Scores of Jimmy Buffett fans, I’m told, embrace life at “a new latitude,” the promise of their spiritual guru, a 76 year-old billionaire who continues to tour, write books, and inspire millions of baby boomers longing for life’s perfect sunset. Buffett’s multiple businesses include a real estate collection of lifestyle communities for 55 and over, open in Florida, South Carolina, Texas, and coming soon to Mexico.

In 2024,, Latitude Margaritaville International is set to open on the northwest shore of Lake Chapala. This new Buffett venture will soon offer “Parrot Heads” (Buffet’s followers) a new roost in Jalisco state, adjacent to the village of Ajijic, whose fame with foreigners dates to the 1940s. 

A new twist on the overseas living experience is now upon us. What could possibly go wrong? Are Lake Chapala and the rest of Mexico ready to welcome Margaritaville to the homeland of margaritas?

Lake Chapala’s one attempt at a United States-style senior care model (formerly marketed as “La Pueblita”) went into receivership in 2022, the victim of the pandemic and a marketing pitch that never caught on. Latitude Margaritaville International and its partner Levy Holding will take over the ill-fated, 200-unit facility of unfinished condos and casitas.

A rendering of Latitude Margaritaville International, set to open in Lake Chapala, Jalisco by early 2024. (margaritaville.com)

“With the success and demand for Margaritaville-branded residential communities in the U.S., we’re always looking for licensing opportunities and destinations that are compelling and dynamic. Lake Chapala was exactly that,” according to Jim Wiseman, president of development at Margaritaville, the parent company of the Latitude Margaritaville real estate collection. “As a popular destination for expats, and with its diverse offerings and incredible climate, the area brings together elements of both active and laid-back lifestyles, and a dedication to community – all a major part of the way of life at Latitude Margaritaville International.”

The project will open for sales this summer, with move-ins happening in the spring of 2024, according to the Margaritaville website. Pastel-hued renderings also give us some clues about how the company will recruit “Parrot Heads” to Lake Chapala. An updated artist’s rendition of the existing pool area features giant macaws, a “Salty Rim Bar & Grill” logo, and Jimmy Buffett-inspired slogans and affirmations scrawled on walls and awnings. 

That’s all fine. Who wants another abandoned real estate eyesore?

But bringing the Margaritaville brand to Lake Chapala – the birthplace of overseas living in Mexico (a heritage we lakesiders proudly embrace) – has some of us wondering how this will all go down. Buffet’s Margaritaville is the first corporate brand to parachute into the lakeside senior living landscape, and it will certainly impact the surrounding area. Will it further accelerate our community’s transformation from a lakeside village to something else? It’s very likely.

Ajijic, Jalisco
View of Lake Chapala and Ajijic at sunset. (Somniphobiac/Creative Commons)

It wouldn’t be fair to lay blame at Margaritaville’s door for Ajijic’s growing challenges: rickety roads, crumbling sidewalks, traffic snarls, water shortages, the rising cost of living, and lost village identity. 

That blame could be placed on local authorities for abandoning any attempt at urban planning or growth impact abatement. Also responsible are foreign-born “invaders” who come here with U.S. lifestyles, affluence, and attitudes that foster what are essentially two community circles, the Mexicans and the outsiders; sometimes polarized, sometimes united.

Will the Margaritaville brand bring new residents with global views and attitudes congruent with making Mexico a better place to live? Will Margaritaville’s “55 and better” communities start popping up across Mexico? 

Or, will it be just another gated community, this time bringing a Floridian vibe to the more muted, rural Lake Chapala area?

I’m hoping the model finds its footing, creates some good-paying jobs, raises living standards for our Mexican neighbors, and helps Mexico attract the inevitably growing share of Americans who can’t afford to retire up north.

I don’t personally know any “Parrot Heads”. They could all be civic-minded, progressive, and giving. They could help make the places they live in more prosperous. Or, will Mexico’s quest to attract foreign capital create another island of exclusivity that’s disassociated from the community’s needs – especially in a town like Ajijic, struggling to define its future?

If nothing else, it’s a homecoming of sorts for the drink that inspires followers to embrace “life on the other side.” I’m keeping an eye out for my “lost shaker of salt.” And hoping for the best. 

Writer Greg Custer (www.mexicoforliving.com) has worked in Mexico tourism for over 40 years. He’s lived lakeside in Ajijic since 2015 and helps Americans explore Mexico for living opportunities.

Here’s why you should already be on the bus to Taxco

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Taxco, Guerrero
Taxco is one of Mexico's most charming towns, and boasts what might be considered Mexico's most beautiful church. (Gob. de Mexico)

I recently succumbed to a strong urge to shake things up for a night. I googled “day trips from Mexico City” and was, as expected, bombarded with an abundance of blogs written by luxury travelers or backpackers — all of  which suggested a quick jaunt to Taxco. 

So I booked myself a trip to this Guerrero city by bus, leaving early on a Wednesday morning, to return late on a Thursday afternoon. I figured it would be a fun little adventure to get my creative juices flowing and teach me a thing or two about Mexican culture.

Taxco's iconic white Volkswagen taxi's are some of the few vehicles able to cope with the steep hills of the city.
The winding, colonial streets of Taxco are more reminiscent of Europe than Guerrero. (Chris Havler-Barrett)

After about three hours of careening in and out of winding mountain roads, we drove underneath a set of bright white arches. From here, a sweeping scene of hundreds of thousands of rectangular, white-washed facades with burnt orange, terracotta roofs unveiled before me. 

The buildings were perched on the slopes of the mountains, with a serpentine road cutting through the center. Peppered throughout the structures were palm trees, magenta bougainvillea, and rooftop terraces with blue umbrellas. I had to shake my head a few times… No, brain, I am not in Italy, though it would appear to be so. 

Because the town’s incline is reminiscent of San Francisco, not just any vehicle will survive the uphill battle. Taxis here are all old white Volkswagen Beetles that can, according to my taxi driver, withstand the steep climb in any kind of weather.  

This brings me to the first of many things you should definitely do in Taxco.

Taxis in the city of Taxco
Taxco’s iconic white Volkswagen taxis are some of the few vehicles able to cope with the steep hills of the city. (freetworoam)

Suggestion #1: Take a ride in a punch-buggy taxi

The old town is centered around its zócalo, home to arguably the most beautiful church in all of Mexico — a dusty rose-colored stone with incredible carvings and two multicolored mosaic-tiled domes. 

Suggestion #2: Climb the 140 stairs leading you to the top of the tower in the Church of Santa Prisca.

For the views you’ll get, 50 pesos is a fantastic investment.
The streets that spider off of the zócalo also lead you to a variety of jaw-dropping views. Every time you turn a corner, you’re hit with another vista that seems better than the last. 

And if you have the quads for it, continue up to…

You are never more than a short climb away from an incredible view. (Anagoria/Wikimedia)

Suggestion #3: Capilla de Ojeda.

I happened to bump into this small church on an early morning walk and caught an unobstructed glimpse of the entire city before me, with a very slight mist above the mountains. It was a stunner, and my nalgas have been delightfully sore ever since.

Suggestion #4: Have breakfast at Casa Spratling.

At this point, I was hungry and wanted to try out a recommended establishment: Casa Spratling, named after William Spratling, who, shortly after the Mexican Revolution, brought Taxco silver back to the international stage.  

I arrived too late for meal service but not too late to meet the owner, a Mexican woman of Italian heritage who welcomed me with a local mezcalito. She showed me her gallery, which included Spratling-style jewelry and antiques. It was a charming restaurant that offers a unique array of Italian-Mexican fusion dishes that I’ll have to try next time.

Suggestion #5: Don’t get a margarita, but do get a drink upstairs at Bar Berta.

Bar Berta
Bar Berta is a whimsically decorated, historic bar with amazing views from its balcony seating. (Manuel Cuevas)

I later wandered back toward the zócalo to eat, and Bar Berta caught my eye. Established in 1930, its balcony seating is at eye level with the church. Prime real estate. The view, the people-watching, the sounds — it was all so perfect. The margarita was not so much, but I would not hesitate to return again and again for that view.

By the time I got to Bar Berta, I was borderline starving, and for that reason perhaps made a shortsighted restaurant decision. There are plenty of highly rated options in town, including:

I chose none of them. While my main dish at the restaurant I did choose left a bit to be desired, the view was great. My wine was crappy, but my guacamole was excellent, and with that vista, I was happy as a clam.

Hotel Los Arcos, Taxco, Guerrero
Ideally located Hotel Los Arcos will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to Mexico’s colonial era. (Hotel Los Arcos)

Suggestion #6: Consider a stay at Hotel Los Arcos

After I’d had my visual fill, I wandered downhill to my room at Hotel Los Arcos, a colonial house constructed in 1572 with a charming central courtyard and simple rooms. 

The location is ideal, right next door to the Humboldt Museum and within walking distance of everything I wanted to see. There’s a lovely roof deck that guests don’t seem to know or care about but where I enjoyed the sparkling skyline before bed.

Suggestion #7: Get coffee at Nueve 25.

Taxco is a sleepy place in the morning, and not many coffee shops were open when I started exploring around 7 a.m. To my delight, I did discover Nueve 25, a ventanilla-style cafe where you order your beverage from a window. My cappuccino was delicious. 

Taxco silver
Taxco’s silver is world-renowned. (Government of Mexico)

Suggestion #8: Get yourself lost in the Taxco Tianguis

Under no circumstances should you skip this market, which has enough going on for a whole article in itself. I don’t know how to describe it, other than comparing it to an octopus. There is allegedly a central hub of some kind, although in practice it’s difficult to find. 

But from the middle of the market extends an uncountable number of streets, tunnels, and stairs absolutely full of food vendors. Aside from fresh juices, flowers and pig heads, one can also purchase ceramics, herb capsules and cell phone covers. 

Suggestion #9: Visit the Mines inside Posada de la Misión.

After I’d had my juice and was well-fueled, I moved on to my next stop: located inside the impressive Posada de La Misión hotel are pre-Hispanic mines, discovered in 2013 underneath the hotel bar. Admission buys you a 45-minute underground tour, a drink and insight into Taxco’s fascinating history.

La Casa de las Lagrimas in Taxco, Guerrero, Mexico
If these walls at La Casa de las Lagrimas could talk, they’d have such a story to tell. Luckily, it has tour guides who know its telenovela-like history. (La Casa de las Lagrimas/Facebook)

Suggestion #10: La Casa de las Lágrimas.

The house is preserved beautifully, as are the antiques that feel almost stuffed inside. There are giant windows, traditional talavera tiles and underground tunnels that once served as escape routes for its previous wealthy owners.

La Casa de las Lágrimas, or Casa Figueroa, manages to weave money, politics, love, scandal and murder into a 20-minute tour. 

It was a pleasant and unexpected little stumble that rounded out two perfect days spent in an absolutely spellbinding town.

Bethany Platanella is a travel and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. With her company, Active Escapes International, she plans and leads private and small-group active retreats. She loves Mexico’s local markets, Mexican slang, practicing yoga and fresh tortillas.  Sign up for her (almost) weekly love letters or follow her Instagram account, @a.e.i.wellness.

16 soldiers arrested in Nuevo Laredo extrajudicial killings case

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Mexican army soldiers on patrol in Guerrero
Soldiers on patrol in Guerrero in May. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)

Sixteen soldiers have been arrested and ordered to stand trial on charges related to the alleged murder of five men in Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas, last month.

Security camera footage disseminated by the media last week provided compelling evidence that soldiers executed presumed criminals they had already disarmed — and attempted to cover up their crime.

Footage of military killing civilians in Nuevo Laredo
Video footage that circulated online appears to show soldiers shooting the five men after they had already disarmed them. (Twitter)

President López Obrador said last Wednesday that it appeared there had been an “execution” on May 18 and pledged that the culprits would be punished.

The Ministry of National Defense (Sedena) said in a statement Saturday that the Military Justice Prosecutor’s Office last Thursday arrested 16 soldiers involved in the incident.

It said that a military court granted warrants for the arrest of the soldiers on charges they committed “crimes contrary to military discipline.”

A military judge ruled last Friday that the soldiers must face trial and remain in preventive detention, Sedena said. They are being held in a Mexico City military prison.

Sedena said that the arrest of the soldiers and the judge’s ruling that they must stand trial are “independent” of an investigation being carried out by the Federal Attorney General’s Office. Cases of alleged military abuses against civilians are heard in civilian courts, meaning that the soldiers could face a separate trial on murder charges in a civil proceedings.

The apparent massacre in Nuevo Laredo on May 18 occurred less than three months after soldiers killed five other apparently unarmed men in the northern border city. Federal prosecutors in April formally accused four of those soldiers of murder.

Mexico News Daily 

Ruling party Morena to announce presidential candidate on Sept. 6

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Aspiring Morena candidates at council meeting
The six aspiring candidates at the Sunday meeting of the Morena National Council, with Morena party president Mario Delgado. (Mario Delgado/Twitter)

The ruling Morena party on Sunday determined many of the key rules for the process to select its candidate for the 2024 presidential election, and said that the winner — who will head up the defense of President López Obrador’s so-called “fourth transformation” of Mexico — will be announced Sept. 6.

At a meeting of the Morena National Council (CNM) in Mexico City, officials approved an agreement that stipulates that a maximum of six aspirants will be permitted to participate in the selection process.

Morena candidates
From left to right, the six aspiring candidates: Manuel Velasco, Marcelo Ebrard, Adán Augusto López, Claudia Sheinbaum, Ricardo Monreal and Gerardo Fernández Noroña. (Morena/Twitter)

National polls will be conducted between Aug. 28 and Sept. 3 to choose a new standard bearer for Morena, which was founded by López Obrador last decade and is now Mexico’s dominant political party.

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum, Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard, Interior Minister Adán Augusto López Hernández and Senator Ricardo Monreal are the main “pre-candidates” seeking Morena’s nomination.

Gerardo Fernández Noroña, a Labor Party (PT) deputy, and Senator Manuel Velasco of the Ecological Green Party (PVEM) are also interested in competing for the candidacy but are  awaiting the formal endorsement of their parties, which are Morena allies.

According to the rules approved on Sunday, each of the aspirants are required to formally register their intended participation in the Morena selection process this week and must resign their current positions the same day, if they haven’t already done so.

Marcelo Ebrard stepped down as Foreign Affairs Minister today to focus on his campaign. He’s seen here participating in a Chiapas event last week with President López Obrador’s brother Pío López Obrador. (Marcelo Ebrard/Twitter)

Ebrard, one of the leading contenders to win the Morena nomination, announced last week that he would step down as foreign minister today.

A total of five surveys will be carried out to determine Morena’s candidate for the presidential election, which will be held June 2, 2024.

Morena will conduct one of the surveys, while private polling companies — to be selected randomly from a pool of firms nominated by the aspirants — will carry out four “mirror polls.”

The surveys will likely include a range of questions to assess perceptions on things such as the pre-candidates’ honesty and knowledge of the country, according to the newspaper El País, which spoke with Morena party Secretary General Citlalli Hernández.

4 hopefuls for Mexico's Morena Party nomination presidential candidate in 2024 with President Lopez Obrador
President López Obrador, center, with the four main contenders for the party’s presidential candidate in 2024, seen from left to right: Foreign Minister Marcelo Ebrard, Interior Minister Adán Augusto López, Senate Majority Leader Ricardo Monreal and Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum. (Presidencia)

The respondents will also be directly asked who their preferred candidate is, according to Hernández, but responses to all questions will be weighted equally.

Exactly who will be polled and the number of respondents are yet to be determined, but Morena has previously indicated that selection of a candidate will be a task for its members.

The official campaign period for the Morena hopefuls will begin next Monday June 19 and run through Aug. 27. López Obrador, members of his cabinet, Morena governors and all other officials from that party as well as the PT and the PVEM are barred from speaking out in favor of any of the pre-candidates under the rules approved at Sunday’s meeting.

Speaking after the meeting, CNM president and Sonora Governor Alfonso Durazo said that the aspirants would have to formally commit to “the fundamental ethical principles of our movement,” including by making an undertaking “to not lie, steal or betray the people.”

They will also have to pledge to put Mexico’s poorest and most vulnerable people first and always adhere to the law, Durazo said.

Morena national president Mario Delgado told the same press conference that the pre-candidates have been directed to carry out “austere” campaigns with no squandering of money on self-promotion.

Mario Delgado, leader of Morena
Mario Delgado, Morena national president, at the council meeting on Sunday. (Mario Delgado/Twitter)

“We want them to go with [and meet] the people [of Mexico],” he said, adding that no debates between the aspirants — for which Ebrard strongly advocated — will be held.

“It has to be a fraternal contest, and there can’t be insults between colleagues; there has to be complete respect,” said Delgado, who left the lower house of Congress in late 2020 to assume the national leadership of Morena.

The aspirants who finish second and third in the selection process will be guaranteed cabinet roles — provided Morena wins the presidency — or leadership positions in Congress, while the other contenders will be allocated proportional representation seats in the federal legislature, according to Durazo.

Delgado said that the aspirants have been forbidden from “speaking ill of or discrediting” the selection process backed by the CNM, and that they must commit to accepting the results of the polls. The pre-candidates are also banned from speaking with “reactionary” and “conservative” media outlets opposed to the López Obrador administration.

Delgado said that the “route” to determine who will “coordinate the defense of the fourth transformation” has now been established, although some important details — such as the questions to be included in the polls and the number of respondents — haven’t been finalized.

“It’s an unprecedented process because it’s inclusive, democratic, transparent … and it ends forever the dedazo, or imposition [of successors by sitting presidents],” Delgado said. “That’s why today is a historic day for our movement.”

At Sunday’s CNM meeting, the six aspirants pledged to maintain unity as they compete with each other to secure the Morena nomination. Polls indicate that whoever Morena puts forward is likely to win the presidency on June 2, 2024.

Sheinbaum, the pre-candidate considered most likely to win Morena’s nomination, said on Twitter Sunday that a “historic agreement of unity” was reached at the CNM meeting.

“That gives me a lot of happiness and the conviction to move forward,” said the mayor, who would become Mexico’s first female president if she wins next year’s election.

Sheinbaum on Monday morning on her way to a meeting with the president. (Claudia Sheinbaum/Twitter)

“The desire of the people of Mexico to continue the transformation that President López Obrador began, and [what would be] the great feat of having, for the first time, a woman as the national coordinator of the transformation, gives us encouragement,” she wrote.

Ebrard, who is seen as Sheinabum’s main rival, said that a “real competition” between the aspirants has now begun.

“A direct debate hasn’t been accepted yet, [but] we’re going to continue insisting on one. But everyone has to present their proposals — if you don’t, how will you win support?” he added.

Va por México coalition
The PAN-PRI-PRD party leaders at their June 5 press conference. (Marko Cortés/Twitter)

There is currently little clarity about who will face off against the Morena candidate.

The parties of the opposition Va por México alliance — the National Action Party, the Institutional Revolutionary Party and the Democratic Revolution Party — announced in January that they would field a common candidate at the election, and at a joint press conference on June 5, the party leaders said they would announce their selection method by June 26.

Another opposition party, Citizens Movement (MC), has indicated it will also field a presidential candidate, but a recent Reforma newspaper poll found that MC — which is in power in Nuevo León and Jalisco — has national support of just 5%.

With reports from El País, El Financiero, and Reforma