The famous cliff divers say they are looking forward to offering shows to tourists this holiday season. (clavadistaslaquebrada.com)
The La Quebrada diving show in Acapulco has resumed its spectacle 45 days after Hurricane Otis, the strongest hurricane ever to hit Mexico’s Pacific Coast, which damaged much of Acapulco and its surrounding port.
The cliffs known as La Quebrada have been the site of high-diving performances for tourists since 1934. Following Otis, the accumulation of debris along the coast of La Quebrada made the waters unsafe for swimmers and divers alike. This past weekend, however, Acapulco’s divers announced that they will slowly resume the shows, offering two schedules during the December holidays, depending on the number of tourists.
La Quebrada cliff divers, circa 1960s. (Photo: Archive)
The La Quebrada divers jump over 40 meters from the cliffs into a narrow channel below in what is one of the best-known performances in Acapulco. In 2021, the performance won the Touristic Excellence Award in a competition that also included European and Middle Eastern tourist attractions.
On Friday, the divers offered a first performance for free at 1 p.m. local time. “We are offering this show free of charge to the public, locals and tourists, mostly to distract them a little from what has happened in the port,” diver Giovanni Vargas told the news outlet EFE, adding that the divers have seen a drop in tourism after the devastating impact of Otis. A second show began around 6 p.m. and cost the normal entrance price of 100 pesos (US $6) per adult and 50 pesos (US $3) per child.
“We’ll see what happens when the holiday season begins in December,” Vargas continued, “We hope to regularize schedules and welcome many tourists to visit us,” he said.
The divers reminisced about when people used to see them from their boats but could no longer do so due to the losses that occurred with recreational and private yachts. “It’s sad not to have those boats that came to visit us,” Vargas told EFE.
Acapulco’s residents are facing a challenging holiday season with much of the city still lacking running water and many people still missing. Although the official death toll from Hurricane Otis is 50, local news agencies claim that the actual figure could be up to seven times higher.
Looking for a gift for the bookworm in your life? Or curious to expand your knowledge of Mexican history, culture and current events? We have you covered with our favorite reads of 2023, curated by the MND team.
Strangers by Guillermo Arriaga
“Strangers” explores the fascinating boom of science in the eighteenth century and its rivalry with religious and aristocratic standpoints.
The book shows us endearing characters, living on the edge. To write the book, Arriaga, one of Mexico’s best writers, only used words that were used in the eighteenth century.
Recommended by Camila Sánchez Bolaño, features editor
Salvar el Fuego by Guillermo Arriaga
Mexico City-born author and screenwriter Guillermo Arriaga’s novel is my personal favorite of the year. It’s got it all: love, lust, violence, beauty, shame, and deceit. Thanks to an intriguing cast of characters, I’ve learned more about social classism, politics, and modern Mexican culture than I have in my daily life here.
Bonus: It has expanded my Spanish vocabulary tenfold.
Recommended by Bethany Platanella, contributing writer
The Complete Stories of Leonora Carrington
Carrington (1917-2011) was a renegade, aristocratic British Surrealist painter who lived in Mexico City. Her short stories are strange, compelling, mythical explorations of the scope of the human imagination and our place in the world. Also funny and thought-provoking, she ponders the liminal spaces between life/death, dreams/waking, and man/beast.
Recommended by Henrietta Weeks, contributing writer
Several Ways To Die In Mexico City by Kurt Hollander
I recently returned to this 2012 non-fiction book, touted as an “autobiography of death” in Mexico’s capital. It’s a fascinating – and somewhat unnerving – read, broken into sections with memorable titles such as “Death Valley” and “Sick City.”
Recommended by Peter Davies, chief staff writer
Instrucciones para vivir en México by Jorge Ibargüengoitia
I love Ibargüengoitia’s sense of humor: the way he talks about everyday issues with simplicity and intelligence. If you want to learn more about Mexican culture and way of thinking, this novel is for you.
Recommended by Rosario Ruiz, editor
The Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver
Born in the U.S. but raised in a series of fantastical situations in Mexico made believable by Kingsolver’s unique skill, Harrison Shepherd’s brushes with fame and history reveal the character of both countries. He is brutally caught up in governments’ nationalist fears and the even wilder judgments of public opinion.
Recommended by Ann Marie Jackson, contributing writer
This is not Miami by Fernanda Melchor
This collection of twelve devastating short stories about life in Veracruz in the 1980s, is told with Melchor’s scintillating, honest and sharp voice. Translated brilliantly by Sophie Hughes, the book beautifully binds violence, pain and mystery together into gripping reportage stories based on real-life events in the port city.
Recommended by Gordon Cole-Schmidt, contributing writer
The Labyrinth of Solitude by Octavio Paz
Paz explores the complexities of Mexican identity and culture, delving into the historical, social, and psychological aspects that shape the people. Paz reflects on the solitude inherent in the Mexican psyche, examining the profound sense of loneliness and introspection that characterizes the nation’s history and identity.
Recommended by Mark Viales, contributing writer
A Land So Strange: The Epic Journey of Cabeza de Vaca by Andrés Reséndez
The incredible story of a Spaniard’s 4,000-km walk from Texas to Mexico City in the early 1500s. Six hundred sailed from Spain, but only four survived to tell the tale.
Recommended by John Pint, contributing writer
La Revolucioncita Mexicana by Rius
Political cartoonist Rius’ sly, humorous take on the Mexican Revolution taught me more about Mexican history than some classes I’ve taken on the subject. If you want to read in Spanish but you’re not quite ready for “A Hundred Years of Solitude,” try this graphic novel.
Recommended by Rose Egelhoff, editor
The Murmur of Bees by Sofía Segovia
An enchanting and highly evocative story that unfolds in a small town in Mexico’s northeast. The story, told with the charm of magical realism, follows the lives of Simonopio and his adoptive family, the wealthy Morales, as they navigate the tumultuous times of the Mexican Revolution.
Recommended by Gaby Solís, contributing writer
The Dope by Benjamin T. Smith
Not only is this “myth-busting” history of the drug trade in Mexico a page-turner, it is a deeply-researched reference I have returned to repeatedly since first reading it.
Recommended by Kate Bohné, chief news editor
Keep an eye out for more MND staff picks this month, including favorite films, foods and cultural experiences.
Mexico's solid economic growth in 2023 surpassed last year's forecasts. (Carlos Aranda/Unsplash)
A significant appreciation of the peso, a steady decline in inflation, Tesla’s announcement that it will build a gigafactory in Nuevo León, the cancellation of Chinese lithium concessions, record-breaking remittances, cargo delays at the Mexico-U.S. border.
It’s been an eventful year in business and economic news in Mexico, where nearshoring isn’t just a buzzword, but also represents a “historic opportunity” for the world’s 14th largest economy to secure strong growth in the years ahead and guarantee economic well-being for millions of citizens — provided the country can fully capitalize on its much-touted potential.
Major infrastructure projects like the Maya Train were one of many factors that boosted the Mexican economy in 2023. (Lopezobrador.org.mx)
At Mexico News Daily, we’ve closely followed business and economic developments this year, reporting on a wide range of data, scores of investment announcements, events that have crimped the economy and hurt investor confidence, and the views of numerous organizations and people on the country’s future prospects.
As 2023 draws to a close, here’s a look back at 10 of the biggest business and economy stories in Mexico this year. Many of the developments, events and issues outlined below had a significant impact on the economic situation in Mexico this year, and in some cases will help shape the future the country will face in the years to come.
The ‘super peso’ refuses to be beaten down
Perhaps the biggest economic story of the year has been the appreciation of the Mexican peso, which was trading at about 19.5 to the US dollar at the start of 2023 and 17.35 at the close of markets on Friday Dec. 8 — an improvement of around 12%
The peso had a strong year in 2023. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Analysts have cited a range of factors for the peso’s impressive run this year, including strong incoming flows of foreign capital and remittances, and the broad gap between the Bank of Mexico’s record high interest rate (11.25%) and that of the United States Federal Reserve (5.25%-5.5%).
There are a range of pros and cons to a strong peso, but President López Obrador has chosen to focus on the former, and even claimed partial credit for the currency’s appreciation this year.
“There are some disadvantages [to a strong peso], but there are more advantages,” he said at a recent press conference.
The president emphasized that a strong peso has more pros than cons for the Mexican economy. (Lopezobrador.org.mx)
“We have a percentage of public debt contracted in dollars. So, when the peso strengthens, our debt goes down,” AMLO — who has cited the government’s competent economic management as a major factor in the currency’s appreciation — said at another of his early-morning pressers.
‘Heroes’ send billions home, but exchange rate hurts remittance value
Mexicans working and living abroad sent US $52.89 billion to Mexico in remittances in the first 10 months of the year, a 9.4% increase compared to the same period of 2022.
Mexico is thus on track to beat the record set in 2022 for annual remittances receipts.
With a stronger peso, the recipients of remittances have less money to spend in Mexico, unless remitters increase the amounts they wire to offset the strengthening of the local currency. There is evidence that is occurring.
“Before I used to send $100 [per week to my family in Mexico City],” Eric Vasquez, a 44-year-old New York City restaurant employee told CNBC in October. “Now I have to send $130, $140 to cover expenses.”
While AMLO frequently describes Mexican migrants as “heroes” in recognition of the substantial support they provide to the economy — remittances were equivalent to 4.5% of GDP last year — not all the money sent to Mexico comes from hardworking people with legitimate jobs. There is evidence that some of the funds are linked to drug trafficking, a Mexican think tank reported in March.
As the peso has grown stronger, workers abroad in the U.S. have had to send home more dollars to compensate. (Shutterstock)
Inflation falls, but remains above the central bank’s target
The increase in inflation last year was probably the biggest economic story of 2022. The headline rate peaked at 8.7% in August and September of last year, and was still very high at 7.82% in December 2022.
Despite the sustained decline in inflation throughout most of the year, the headline rate remains above the Bank of Mexico’s 3% target.
Consequently, the central bank has maintained its record high 11.25% benchmark interest rate since it was raised to that level in March.
An initial cut is considered likely in the first or second quarter of 2024, provided inflation returns to the downward trend seen throughout most of 2023.
Tesla generates excitement with gigafactory announcement
Four weeks before the central bank raised its key rate to 11.25%, the world’s richest person made a significant announcement of his own.
Tesla CEO Elon Musk announced March 1 that the electric vehicle manufacturer would build a “gigafactory” in Santa Catarina, a Nuevo León municipality just west of Monterrey.
A rendering of Tesla’s proposed “gigafactory” in Nuevo León. (Tesla)
Construction has not yet begun, but Musk said in October that an initial phase of the project will begin in early 2024.
While the Austin-based company hasn’t disclosed how much it intends to invest in its new plant, estimates are in the range of US $5-10 billion.
Nuevo León Governor Samuel García claimed in September that Tesla and its suppliers would invest $15 billion in the northern border state.
Is Mexico on the verge of a nearshoring boom?
As mentioned above, Tesla is one company on a long list of foreign firms that intend to establish a presence in Mexico in the near future. During the course of 2023, many others announced that they are expanding their existing operations here.
It’s all part of the growing nearshoring phenomenon, which Mexico News Daily has covered extensively this year. (Read a couple of our analysis articles here and here.)
Unsurprisingly, foreign direct investment (FDI) is on the rise, reaching a record high of almost US $33 billion in the first nine months of 2023. FDI is poised to increase further in coming years as the significant amount of investment announced in 2023 begins to flow into the country.
While there is no shortage of people who are optimistic about Mexico’s nearshoring prospects — Governor García, for example, said in March that annual growth of 10% is possible if the opportunity is seized — few have endorsed the country as an investment destination as strongly as JPMorgan Chase CEO Jamie Dimon.
Foreign direct investment reached a record high this year, as foreign companies showed interest in setting up and expanding operations in Mexico. (Safran/Facebook)
“I think it’s one of the great opportunities. … If you had to pick a country … [Mexico] might be the number one opportunity,” he said in November.
However, some experts believe that Mexico runs the risk of missing its nearshoring opportunity, or at least not taking full advantage of it, for a variety of reasons, including government policy, security concerns and deficient infrastructure, as we reported in September.
Adding her voice to the debate, Foreign Affairs Minister Alicia Bárcena expressed doubt in November that the nearshoring opportunity is well understood in Mexico and warned that countries such as Vietnam could position themselves as more attractive options for companies that are seeking to relocate, especially from China — which is increasing its investment in Mexico itself.
Economic growth significantly higher than anticipated
The OECD predicted in November 2022 that the Mexican economy would grow by just 1.6% this year. The 38-member intergovernmental organization forecast last week that GDP will expand 3.4% in 2023.
On another positive note, Mexico was the United States’ top trade partner in the first nine months of 2023, according to U.S. government data, with two-way trade worth almost US $600 billion.
Mexico was the United States’ largest trade partner for the first 9 months of this year, according to data from the U.S. Bureau of Economic Analysis. (Juan José Estrada Serafín/Cuartoscuro)
(Read more about Mexico’s impressive export and FDI growth in recent decades here.)
Data published by the Bank of Mexico showed that economic growth in that part of the country easily exceeded growth in three other more industrialized regions of Mexico in the first half of 2023.
Supercharged by public and private construction projects, annual growth in the southern region made up of Campeche, Chiapas, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, Tabasco, Veracruz and Yucatán was 6% in the second quarter of the year and 4.6% in Q1.
Projects in Mexico’s south and southeast including the Maya Train railroad, the Tulum airport and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec trade corridor all helped boost construction sector growth, which drove overall growth in the first half of the year.
President López Obrador and Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama view construction at the Tulum Airport, another major infrastructure project this year. (Mara Lezama/X)
President López Obrador has long asserted that the construction and operation of the Maya Train railroad — which is set to partially open next week — will spur economic development in Mexico’s long-neglected south.
There are also high hopes for the trade corridor between Salina Cruz, Oaxaca, and Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz, with Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro saying in July that it could contribute to as much as 5% of Mexico’s GDP once operational.
The federal government’s nationalistic energy policies have been identified as one impediment to greater incoming flows of investment.
The United States and Canada challenged the policies under the USMCA in July 2022, arguing that they discriminate against U.S. and Canadian companies that operate in Mexico. More than a year later the issue has still not been resolved.
The U.S. has pressured Mexico to address its concerns, but appears reluctant to request the establishment of a dispute settlement panel to deal with the matter.
López Obrador, a fierce critic of the 2014 energy reform that opened up Mexico’s energy sector to private and foreign companies, has not indicated that he is willing to change policies that favor the state oil company Pemex and the Federal Electricity Commission.
The failure to resolve the dispute this year is significant as it perpetuates uncertainty in the energy sector, and uncertainty — as everyone knows — is never good for investment.
The U.S. and Canada have challenged current energy policy under the USMCA free trade pact, but stopped short of asking for a dispute settlement panel. (Shutterstock)
We’ll be watching closely to see how the issue plays out in 2024 — an election year in both Mexico and the U.S.
Lithium, which seems to be becoming more coveted by the day, was nationalized in Mexico last year. The initial understanding was that private companies that had already been granted concessions to mine the alkali metal would be allowed to do so, although López Obrador said in April 2022 that such contracts had to be reviewed.
Fast forward to September this year, and reports emerged that the federal government had canceled mining concessions held by Chinese company Ganfeng Lithium for a large lithium reserve in Sonora. AMLO subsequently said that the concessions were still being reviewed, but Ganfeng announced in late November that the government had confirmed the cancellation.
The CEO of a Ganfeng subsidiary that is managing the Sonora project said in October that Ganfeng would defend its right to the concessions in Mexican courts.
“We do not believe that it’s legally valid” to cancel the concessions, said Peter Secker, CEO of Bacanora Lithium.
“… We’ve exceeded all the requirements for spending on the licenses,” he said, rejecting the government’s apparent grounds for canceling the concessions.
Ganfeng Lithium has a number of lithium mines, including this one in western Australia. Whether it will be able to open a mine in Sonora remains to be seen. (Ganfeng Lithium)
The battle that appears to be looming has the potential to have a significant impact on Mexico’s nascent lithium industry. Resolution could come via a decision to enter into a joint venture to mine the Sonora reserve, in which Ganfeng and the federal government, via the state-owned lithium company Litio para México, would work together on the project.
The former has expressed its willingness to participate in such an arrangement, but the government, to date, has not.
Cargo delays at the U.S. border take heavy economic toll
Another major story we covered in 2023 was cargo delays at the northern border.
On repeated occasions this year, the Texas government ramped up inspections of northbound freight trucks at various border crossings, causing lengthy delays for truckers seeking to enter the Lone Star state.
The Economy Ministry said in May that that the inspections were causing delays of eight to 27 hours for northbound freight trucks, as well as losses in the millions of dollars for both Mexican and U.S. companies.
Cargo processing closures and increased inspections at border crossings from Mexico into the U.S. caused huge backlogs this year. (Comentario U de C/X)
The actions implemented by the Texas government “are motivated by an anti-Mexican vision that is far removed from the social, cultural and economic integration between Mexico and Texas,” the ministry said.
At one point in early October, cargo worth more than US $1.5 billion was held up at the border due to stringent inspections on the U.S. side of the crossing between Ciudad Juárez, Chihuahua, and El Paso, Texas, according to Mexico’s National Chamber of Trucking.
The stated aim of the strict inspections carried out by the Texas Department of Public Safety was to prevent the entry to the U.S. of undocumented migrants and narcotics.
Governor Greg Abbott, an outspoken critic of U.S. President Joe Biden’s alleged failure to secure the border, is well-known for his hardline stance on irregular immigration.
With migration set to be a significant issue in the upcoming presidential election in the United States, will we see more economically painful truck inspections at the Mexico-Texas border in 2024?
By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])
If you’re on a quest to understand Mexican humor – or at least to find the best Mexican memes to share with your friends – we’ve got you covered! Here’s this week’s curated collection with a translation, background, any relevance to current events, and hopefully, a good chuckle.
Meme translation: “When the game is loading and you see your reflection in the television.”
What does it meme? I don’t know about you all, but the combination of the colder weather and often sad world news has me spending a lot of time inside staring at the TV, where it’s easy to forget what you should be doing for an episode or six.
This particular meme is for people playing video games, but I see a similar image when the following episode is loading! Maybe it’s time to get up and do something!
Meme translation: “December begins.” “The fish right away:” (And yes, that’s a Bacardi bottle and a can of Modelo beer.)
What does it meme? This is a reference to a popular Christmas carol in Spanish, Los Peces en el Rio. The second part of the chorus goes, “Beben y beben y vuelven a beber; los peces en el río por ver a Dios nacer.” (In English: They drink and they drink, and they drink again; the fish in the river will soon see God as he is born.)
I’ve never really understood the song – do fish “drink” water? And how does drinking water help them see the Baby Jesus? – but it’s a popular one that most people learn as kids, and it’s sweet. Anyway! “To drink,” in Spanish, just like in English, can mean to drink alcohol, and “in the river” (en el río) can double as “by the river.” Looks like these fish have found a nice loophole in the lyrics!
Meme translation: “My ex when they tell their version of the story.”
What does it meme? I’ve hinted before in a few articles that Mexicans can fall a bit on the dramatic side when it comes to the ending of relationships: to hear people tell it, every woman is “crazy,” “lazy,” and possibly secretly abusive, and every man is a cheater and a player who only wants some kind of cross between a mother/servant and a friend with benefits.
Judging from the way my ex’s current partner refuses to look or smile at me, I’m guessing that according to him, I’m about as unstable and neglectful as they come. Alas, I might not ever know!
Meme translation: “Today we’ll be making origami with your victim paper (role).”
What does it meme? The reason this works as a joke is because of the word papel, which can mean both “paper” and “role” in Spanish. Easy enough to remember, right? So, who is this person? Why, it’s the beloved Cositas (which means “little things”), famous for teaching children crafts – like origami! – on her TV show. She was on during the times of Barney, that big purple dinosaur, and was (from what I understand – I was never a kid in Mexico) about as popular. This clever blow, coming from Señorita Cositas? Burn.
Meme translation: “I hereby inaugurate the message: ‘We need to get together before the end of the year.’”
What does it meme? If you’re a busy señora like me, you’re probably struggling to find the time to hang out with anyone not in your immediate family or work circle right now. But it’s already December, so if suddenly, you realize you haven’t seen your good friends in the past few months, now’s the time. And with so many holiday events just around the corner, surely you’ll find the time, right? Riiiiiight.
These messages have already started to arrive in my own chats with friends, with a tentative posada date of December 15th. Will we? Won’t we? So much could happen: extended work assignments, sick kids, sick us…only time will tell.
Meme translation: “What I imagine when people say ‘magical town.’”
What does it meme? Mexico’s“magical towns” has been a wildly successful government program that gears funds towards lovely smaller communities that people might not otherwise hear about, in order to showcase their charm and attract both local and international tourism. “Magical towns” is a great name if you ask me, and when I hear it, I think more about the magical realism literary style than actual magic going on there. Even so, a cow flying through the air is quality entertainment, so I had to include this one!
Meme translation: “Trees during Christmas.” “The birds in their nests.”
What does it meme? I’ve seen several versions of this meme – oddly, only in Spanish – and it cracks me up every time. In my city, we’ve got a lot of birds, and I’ll admit…we don’t often stop to ask ourselves if the lights bother them when they’re sleeping! Incidentally, a friend of mine has surely been looking exactly like this guy for the past few nights: her neighbors put up flashing Christmas lights that they never turn off, and they’re those bright LED lights that I always say should be illegal.
Why doesn’t she go and ask them to turn them off after a certain time? I asked. But alas, no one ever thinks that directly confronting someone, even kindly and openly, is a good idea around here.
Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.
Jack Anderson’s Casa del So(u)l home and boutique hotel overlooking the Paquimé archeological site. (Courtesy)
A couple of years ago, I had the pleasure of meeting and interviewing Camille Turok de Flores, to get a glimpse of what it is like to be the only “gringa” in a rural community in Guanajuato. I covered her story here.
Women Surviving Rural Mexico, her Facebook group, is an important resource for its 160 or so members. Many of whom are married to people who returned to Mexico from the United States, whether voluntarily or otherwise.
And while love plays a part in many stories of foreigners living in places they might never have considered otherwise, there are some who have found their destinies off the beaten path.
For retirees like Patricia Bruton and John Davis, who are both married to Mexicans, their Mexican partners were certainly part of the equation; more importantly, though, they built lives more satisfactory than what they had back home. For Bruton, that means a charming house in Acaxochitlán, Hidalgo, with space for her many dogs, along with apple and pear trees. Unable to really “retire,” Davis and his wife busy themselves in Matanzas, Jalisco, creating businesses to help employ people in her hometown. Although Davis says they work more hours than they did in the U.S., their life now is far more satisfying than their former corporate ones.
In Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, Jack Anderson found the place to experiment with earth and adobe construction under the principles of community-minded architecture. Here he built his home and the Pueblo del Soul boutique hotel right on the border of the Paquimé archeological site, which informs much of the complex’s design. Interestingly, despite the proximity to the border and Pueblo Mágico status “I am surprised that I am the only gringo here.” Anderson says.
But perhaps the most unusual case of living on her own terms is that of Kelly Roske, who says she lives “A pretty wild and exploratory life on almost no money.” At the moment she lives in the tiny village of Singayta, Nayarit, among “little brick houses with leaky sheet metal roofs, dogs and chickens.”
Kelly Roske’s home in Nayarit. Even this is a bit too “urban” for her, looking to move further up the local mountain in the near future.
Her extremely frugal lifestyle began by raising children off a small survivors’ pension in Maui, but it became a chosen lifestyle. She has lived in various places in the U.S. and Mexico, learning to live off the land and odd jobs in order “not to be tied down.” That resourcefulness got her a gig on the Discovery Channel’s “Naked and Afraid.” Today, she is working to move out of Singayta to a more remote spot in the nearby mountains.
One curious thing is that to find your “little isolated community,” you don’t need to go all that remote. Megan L. is the only foreigner in El Moral outside of San Martín Texmelucan in Puebla, just off the highway that connects Puebla and Mexico City. Go about a half hour away even from large enclaves like Chapala or Ajijic and you can find towns where life has not changed all that much despite locals having foreigners as neighbors.
The proliferating number of Pueblos Mágicos has had one unintended effect: since being on the list means that the community is more open to outsiders, foreigners are looking at them as alternatives for living in.
Not for everyone
It would be wrong to paint living as the only foreigner in a small town as idyllic. Like everything else in life, there are trade-offs to be considered.
The first is that even with online resources, you’re still an isolated outsider – at least to some extent. That’s something that is reinforced every time you go outside to do something simple like buy bread. Learning Spanish is a must for all residents, and your social options are even more restricted without it. Even if you speak Spanish, you may deal with people with no experience hearing their language in a foreign accent and can be uncomfortable with it. Some newcomers online have expressed hurt by the Mexican tendency to call people by some physical or demographic attribute, like “güero” (white) or gringo, as doing so is taboo in many of our societies. Even with conscious knowledge that no offense is intended, not everyone make the emotional adjustment.
Kelly Roske lives a very frugal and rustic lifestyle out of choice. Her aim is to be as free as possible and most possessions get in the way of that, according to her.
There is the stereotype that rural people are more honest and friendly than their urban counterparts. However true this may or may not be, it would never be wise to blindly trust those who know the legal and cultural landscape far more than you. Joyce Barnett found this out the hard way in her small Colonia Morelos outside of San Miguel de Allende, taken advantage of by builders and even parents who send their children to a small school she set up during the pandemic. Despite this, she still admires the very poor people among whom she lives for their resourcefulness and determination.
This is one main reason why foreigners the world over form enclaves. Those who do not have a support system of foreigners make one with a select circle of locals. This is often done through marriage, but all of the respondents took some steps to involve themselves in the community in some way, to be a bit more than just the “gringo” in the neighborhood.
The advantage of Mexican support is that your people know how things work; the downside is that they may not accommodate your quirks as much as you might like. Not long after I interviewed Ellen Sharp on her work with monarch butterflies, she separated from her husband of over seven years, no longer able to navigate his family’s dynamics or the local community politics.
Younger people are moving to Mexico in greater numbers, often bringing children with them or having them here. The question of their education is usually answered with “private school.” English teacher Melissa, who lives outside of Huajuapan, Oaxaca, does not necessarily agree with this solution. In more rural areas, private schools may not be better than public ones. The answer is to be proactive in your children’s education. Homeschooling, entirely or in part, is one option along with picking and choosing from what public schools and community cultural programs have to offer.
If there is one lesson that binds all these stories – and many more – it’s that to succeed, you need to build relationships with the Mexican community surrounding you. That’s true everywhere to some extent, but it’s crucial when you’re in a culturally immersive environment. Although not everyone can live so disconnected from their home culture, those who have succeeded also noted one other thing: their experiences in their little towns have enriched their lives.
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.
In any language, the most basic toast is to good health. (Unsplash)
Along with the holidays come yearly etiquette “situations” we might not usually encounter. Drink toasting is one of those, and while etiquette norms have relaxed over time, it’s still helpful to know what’s expected in more formal situations.
The long history of drink toasting begins in 6th Century Greece, where it was a way to praise the Gods and ask for health and prosperity. That’s not so different from what we do now in a multitude of languages and countries.
Ever wondered why it’s called toasting? In 17th-century Europe, adding a crouton or a tiny piece of burnt toast to one’s glass of wine was thought to improve the taste of low-quality wine. The practice also became a popular party snack. Hopefully, the wine you’re serving today is up to par, and this part of the tradition won’t be necessary.
In any language, the most basic toast is to good health; Germans, Swiss, and Austrians say Prost; in France and Belgium, folks exclaim Santé!; in Danish lands, Skoal; and in Italy, Salute! or Cin Cin! and Mexico is no different.
As in other Spanish-speaking countries, a toast of Salud! (Good health!) is offered at the start of a meal or event. Traditionally, only men in Mexico lead toasts, but that custom is changing with the times.
Drink Toasting Do’s and Don’ts
Let the host lead the first toast of the evening once all guests are seated and have had their glasses filled. After that, anyone can lead another toast, waiting until dessert is served. Unless it is a small group at a dinner table, the host stands while the group remains seated. Etiquette expert Emily Post suggests something simple like, “Here’s to good cheer, health, and happiness for us all.”
Be prepared. If you are the host or family member expected to give the toast, plan what you are going to say and practice a little. A toast should be short, positive, and coming from the heart, conveying the appropriate message for the gathering without disrupting the party. A touch of humor is OK, but don’t embarrass the honoree. Always stand when leading a toast.
Tapping the side of your glass with a knife to begin a toast isn’t necessary. Instead, stand and lift your glass to get the attention of the assembled folks. Ahead of time, ask friends or family to help you quiet the room when they see you stand with your glass raised.
Empty glass? While not the best scenario, it happens. Instead of creating a disturbance by frantically looking for a refill, just raise your empty glass and pretend to take a sip. Next time, think ahead! Not a fan of alcohol? Juice, water, or a non-alcoholic beverage are all acceptable for toasting.
The tradition of clinking glasses originates from the idea that clinking would drive away evil spirits. (If that seems important, then by all means go ahead!) But it’s not necessary or required to stretch across the table to clink everyone’s glass; clink to the left, clink to the right, smile as you sweep your eyes around the table, and you’re done.
If the toast is in your honor, it’s not proper etiquette to drink to yourself or even raise your glass. Instead, acknowledge the toast and everyone’s subsequent sips with a smile, a nod, and eye contact. When everyone has put their glasses back on the table, that’s your cue to take a sip, rise, and thank whoever offered the toast. A short reciprocal toast can be made, but is not expected or required.
Toasting the host is the perfect way to show appreciation for a wonderful evening. Etiquette experts recommend something simple like “To Brad, a true friend, great host, and terrific cook,” or “Thank you for including all of us in such a fun and festive New Year’s Eve party. You went out of your way to make this evening special. Here’s to Judy, a lovely and gracious host.”
Can a dry region like Querétaro sustainably handle the water demands of data centers? (Shutterstock)
Water is an issue that concerns just about everyone these days – and with good reason. Hardly a week goes by that we don’t hear about the impact of too much or too little water somewhere on the planet.
Here in Mexico, many of us feel an even closer connection to the water scarcity issue especially given the drought that much of the country is facing this year.
Since a lot of Mexico’s territory regularly struggles with water scarcity, and the population is growing and using more water, and significant nearshoring investment is bringing more manufacturing, does this mean we are moving towards a water crisis? Not necessarily.
As I have written about previously, industry increasingly has the tools and technology available to them to drastically reduce their facilities’ water footprint. Long gone are the days of blatant water waste and violations, and most businesses I have seen are actually proactively investing in ways to help their facilities use significantly less water.
Just recently, I heard of a new water technology that gives me even more hope. A former colleague and friend of mine from London called me a few days ago to excitedly share an inspiring water-saving case study her company just completed in Mexico.
Here’s the story.
Querétaro is a fast-growing city and state in a very dry part of Mexico. Due to Querétaro’s strategic central location, lack of earthquakes and hurricanes, and well-educated population, many companies are choosing to locate new data centers in the city.
The problem is data centers use lots of water to cool down their equipment. What sounds like a worsening water problem might actually be solved by Microsoft, one of the companies who is building a massive data center in Querétaro.
Microsoft has committed to becoming water-positive by the year 2030, and taken an extremely creative and proactive approach to not just reducing its water impact in the city, but rather have a positive impact on water usage.
Here’s how. One of the largest losses of water is actually not in the use of it at the final facility, but rather from water leaks occurring in pipes as the water moves from the source to the facility. It is estimated that between 30-40% of all water in Mexico is lost or wasted from leaks in water pipes!
Microsoft is using a technology from my friend’s company, FIDO AI to proactively invest in finding and fixing the water leaks in over 350 km of pipes throughout the city of Querétaro. The new technology from FIDO AI actually “listens” to the water pipes and, using AI tools, identifies and ranks the size of the leaks throughout the network. This precision tool allows for extremely accurate detection and ultimately fixing of the water leaks.
As Microsoft pays for the FIDO AI technology to be implemented throughout Querétaro, Microsoft expects to actually have a net positive impact in its water usage in the city – how cool is that?!
This is a great example of how – with the right incentives and motivation from governments and consumers – industry can actually be a very important part of the solution to our planet’s water issues.
It’s important we don’t look at water problems from a “fixed pie perspective” or we will fail to incentivize and encourage investments like those from Microsoft that actually will help “expand the pie” by helping recover water currently being lost.
What an exciting innovation by FIDO AI and proactive strategic deployment by Microsoft. Kudos to both companies and let’s hope they inspire many others!
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.
Go on an inward journey in these amazing retreats. (Unsplash)
Friends in London, New York and Chicago have been imploring me to find them a cleansing and revitalizing retreat in Mexico, post-holidays and pre-2024. I guess burnout, a real thing in our modern era, doesn’t appear to be going away any time soon.
Mexico’s wealth of retreat centers has expanded considerably since the pandemic, creating a niche for foreigners who want to open up wellness businesses in paradise – any entrepreneur’s dream! Some new rejuvenating health retreats offer ever-higher standards, settings and services.
MND sourced three retreats focused on your optimum health, from the most luxurious to the most affordable, in Cancún, San Miguel de Allende and Baja California. Explore what fits for you as we head into 2024.
SHA Wellness Clinic, Mexico – optimum wellness treatments at a world-class luxury health center
Where Is It?
SHA Wellness Clinic is located 30 minutes from Cancún International Airport, which has daily international connections from the United States, Canada and Europe. The spa is set amidst a lush, tropical landscape, with a white sand beachfront that also houses acenote, a freshwater pool that the Mayans believe has healing properties.
Following the success of SHA wellness brand’s clinic in Spain – voted the world’s best wellness clinic at the World Spa Awards 2023 – SHA Mexico will open in January. The Cancún clinic offers four different state-of-the-art integrative healing and health programs, informed by both scientific and holistic medicine.
SHA helps you curate your own personal health program within the four they offer, according to your health goals for mind, body and spirit: a detox and cleanse, treatments for longevity, recovery from stress and tools for leadership, or a preventive program for cognitive and physical revitalization.
Their programs are all created with the goal of optimum health: good nutrition, “well-aging,” holistic and integrative medicine, cognitive stimulation therapy, advanced preventive diagnostics, and personalized physical fitness. They call it the ‘SHA Method,” which is applied within their “healthy living academy.”
Give me the tour
Overlooking the Caribbean, over one hundred suites and rooms, each with a plunge pool, are designed to evoke a sleek, minimalist sense of serenity by Mexican architect Sordo Madaleno and interior designer Alejandro Escudero. Infinity pools, zen gardens, tropical spaces, and treatment rooms with views over the mangroves create a breathtaking “wellness universe.” SHA boasts over one hundred treatment and medical consultation rooms, a high-tech fitness center and the SHAmadi Restaurant.
Affordability
This is cutting-edge health and wellness in a luxurious setting.
Accommodations range from their two-story, three-bedroom Royal Suite for US $4,750 to a double occupancy room at US $675. In addition, you need to book at least one health program in order to stay.
Their health programs run from 4 days, for around US $3,000, to their 7-day “well-aging” program, which costs around US $8,000. Their 7-day leadership program (think high-powered execs) is valued at US $6,500.
Any other special features?
Tour the nearby large coral reef and marine ecosystem.
SHA offers the latest health technology, like scientific electromagnetic field mapping, far infrared heat with pulsating magnetic waves and dermo-aesthetic medicine.
They also have a theater, a fine arts complex – and even a heliport dock for those who need to arrive clandestinely!
MND Verdict:
With such a high-caliber menu of health treatments and experts in this paradise beach spot, it’s no wonder you’re also offered a daily personal assistant. Probably unbeatable if you want to go “all-out.”
Sagrada Holistic Ranch, San Miguel de Allende – wellness experiences at a boho-chic location set high up in the mountains
Where Is It?
Sagrada Holistic Ranch is located 20 minutes outside the World Heritage city of San Miguel de Allende, nestled inside a beautiful mountain range at the foot of an extinct volcano, overlooking the Rio Laja Valley. 1.5 hours from León (BJX) airport or 3.5 hours from Mexico City International (AICM) airport.
Why Should I Come?
Sagrada Holistic Ranch, San Miguel de Allende. (Sagrada Holistic Ranch)
Sagrada translates to sacred, and historically, the site has a special healing significance – as well as a 300-year-old botanical garden. A young, hip crew of health practitioners and yoga and meditation instructors from the United States and Mexico have created a bohemian, rustic but stylish and comfortable retreat center.
Sagrada Holistic offers personal and group retreats focusing on alternative medicine, yoga, meditation and mindfulness, cleansing and de-stressing, as well as Restore Your Soul and Return to Radiance, two retreats specifically for health practitioners looking to go deeper with their practices.
Healing offerings include a crystal-embellished massage room, an ancient lava infrared sauna, traditional Mexican temazcal ceremonies, a cold plunge pool, mountain pathway walks and forest bathing, a trending Japanese wellness practice known by the name ofShinrin-Yoku, or “taking in the forest atmosphere.”,
Other offerings include Tai Chi and Qigong, massages, reflexology, chiropractic, acupuncture and plant-based cooking classes. Horseback riding, nature hikes, and tours to local pyramids, hot springs, and the city of San Miguel are also offered.
Give me the tour
With the vibe of an ancient hacienda tucked away in a mountain, far away from modern life, Sagrada offers eight charming and spacious suites that accommodate from two to six people.
Recently refurbished and re-envisioned, the gardens, dining and communal areas and outdoor spaces have the touch of an artist’s eye and a homely feel, with breathtaking views overlooking the valley. The center serves authentic regional cuisine, along with plant-based or vegetarian options, and will tailor menus to guests’ desires.
Affordability
Rates include breakfast, use of the sauna, the sacred bath and meditation teepees, as well as a bonfire and tour of the mountain. Rates for the casita that sleeps 6 are around US $600, whereas the double bedroom comes in at around US $300. A 6-night Return to Radiance retreat with yoga teacher Heather Smith runs at USD $2,800. All other therapies and activities are add-ons.
You can reserve retreat spaces and your choice of accommodation through WeTravel. A US $800 non-refundable deposit holds your place and final payment is due 45 days before the start of your retreat. Flexible payment plans are available.
Any other special features?
Sagrada Holistic hosts heart-opening cacao ceremonies, sound baths, bonfires for night gatherings and deep energy clearings and emotional release ceremonies, for those looking for deeper healing. My favorite feature is their invitation to befriend the donkeys they provide sanctuary for.
MND Verdict:
These guys have figured out a delicious menu of treatments, tours and sacred Mexican ceremonies in a setting that is both jaw-dropping and serene. A slice of rustic heaven on earth.
Baja Cleanse, Cabo – detoxify and cleanse in an intimate, natural beach setting
Where Is It?
On the coast between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz. Fly to Cabo San Lucas International airport and the Baja Cleanse car will drive you one hour north to the remote location.
Why Should I Come?
Baja Cleanse, Cabo. (Baja Cleanse)
Baja Cleanse is a simple, natural escape, away from the built-up tourist areas and without the luxury bells and whistles.
They offer a custom-designed, all-inclusive and personalized retreat, and only host a maximum of 6 guests at once. Ideal for an intimate solo or couples getaway, and for those that are “peopled out” and looking for a total detoxification and cleanse – or a complete body reset!
Baja Cleanse claims to level out blood sugar and pH by employing a one-day fast, followed by a raw, Ayurvedic diet featuring local native cuisine.
In addition to yoga, meditation and massage, along with expert nutritional guidance with tools to take away, Baja Cleanse offers some more intense cleansing treatments such as: gallbladder flushes, probiotic implants, ion cleanse detoxes, microbe soil soaks, lymphatic cleansing and liver rescues, coffee enemas, and heavy metals/pesticide detoxes, amongst others.
The retreat host, Tanja, is a certified nutritionist, life coach and massage therapist.
Victor, a shamanic healer, offers ancient sacred ceremony work, with sound and herbal medicines.
Give me the tour
Charming and simple studios and 1 or 2-bedroom casitas are available, in an unspoilt area of rugged beauty close to the beach. There are horses, goats, donkeys and dogs wandering freely but never invading the retreat area.
Affordability
A 7-day retreat for one person costs approximately US $3,000, increasing to US $5000 for a 14-day stay. Prices are flexible, as each retreat is carefully planned and custom-designed based on each guest’s needs.
Cancellations made within 30 days of the retreat will only recoup 50% of the retreat price.
Any other special features?
A metabolic flush with nitric oxide (sounds interesting!) and personal astrological charts are available. For some serious healing, Baja Cleanse offers a ‘spiritual sound bath with Bufo,’ a trending Mexican healing practice using the extract from a Sonoran desert toad. For the more active guest, Baja Cleanse offers kayaking, snorkeling and paddle boarding, whale shark tours, biking, horseback riding, and trips to waterfalls and hot springs!
MND Verdict:
Tanja’s reviews backed up her dual missions of helping other people “become more of a conscious eater instead of a habit eater,” and to detoxify the mind, body and spirit. Expect soulful, natural charm for those with a serious cleansing mission.
From the more affordable to the upscale, there are some real slices of paradise out there in Mexico’s retreat universe. These tantalizing menus of revitalizing techniques offer the latest in health technology, or a chance to experience Mexico’s ancient healing practices.
One thing’s for sure, the locations alone are a world away from the big city in winter – and whatever your fancy – a stint at one of these retreats will likely set you up for a potent and productive 2024!
Henrietta Weekes is a writer, editor, actor and narrator. She divides her time between San Miguel de Allende, New York and Oxford, UK.
Archaeologist Rodrigo Esparza with a pecked cross at Presa de la Luz, Jalisco. Moving a stone from pit to pit made it possible to keep track of the days. (Photo John Pint)
Accompanying Dr. Peter Jiménez on an archaeological tour in November, I thought he was going to tell us about the Lake Chapala petroglyphs. Instead, he gave us a new perspective on pre-Columbian globalization, demonstrating how very similar the ancient people of Mesoamerica were to us.
Thanks to him, a mystery that had long enticed my curiosity was no longer a mystery.
A Guachimontón during the equinox. For 400 years these were highly popular for ceremonies, fiestas and dancing. And then the Guachimontones were abandoned. (Photo John Pint)
From my very first days in Western Mexico in 1985, I’ve been fascinated by the Guachimontones, the “circular pyramids” built by the Teuchtitlán culture starting as far back as 200 B.C. Their ruins, which in some cases are remarkably well preserved, can be found in more than 50 locations across Jalisco and neighboring states.
The Guachimontones were ceremonial centers where huge crowds gathered to hear about their traditions, celebrate festivals, dance to music and watch ball games. You can find more about them in my book “A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area” or in Mexico News Daily.
But then there was the mystery…
Disappearing people
Participants in an archaeological excursion head for a petroglyph site above Lake Chapala. (Photo John Pint)
In the past, archaeologists had told me that at some point all the activities around the Guachimontones stopped and the people of the round pyramids had disappeared. By the year A.D. 700, it seemed, there were no longer any traces of them.
These beliefs were dramatically disproved in 2008 when excavations were carried out on the site of what is now the Phil Weigand Interactive Museum at Teuchitlán.“Everywhere we dug,” archaeologist Rodrigo Esparza told me, “we found artifacts proving that Teuchitlán had never been abandoned.”
How was this possible? Those people were still there, but they had clearly forsaken their beloved monuments and customs. Why?
Great civilizations that didn’t vanish
Petroglyphs in the area of Poncitlán, Jalisco. These engravings are typically prayers or petitions either for rain or for sun. (Photo John Pint)
Under the shade of a tall pine tree, near a collection of rocks covered in petroglyphs, Peter Jiménez provided us listeners with clues as to why the builders of the round pyramids had changed their behavior – and perhaps as to why other great civilizations of the past had not really vanished at all.
All those petroglyphs, it seems, had only two main themes: sun and water, the two themes most important to anyone trying to grow corn.
Archaeologist Peter Jiménez, far right, discusses globalization and changes of custom during an excursion organized by Senderos de México. (Photo John Pint.)
Three cycles were of paramount importance back in those days, Peter told us: the solar cycle, the corn cycle and the ritual cycle. If a culture’s elite could accurately predict the solar cycle, then the corn cycle would be a success. Everyone would be happy, and the elite could rest on their laurels.
If you could predict the summer solstice and the winter solstice, then you could predict the end of the dry season and the beginning of the rains. Likewise, when the harvest was coming and you needed those rains to stop, you could predict their end.
Distribution of pecked crosses around Mexico shows the influence of Teotihuacán on other areas. (Image Peter Jiménez)
Pecked crosses to keep track of days
Nearly 400 miles west of Teuchtitlán, the elite of Teotihuacán, it seems, had worked out a way of counting the days. They had developed what is called the pecked cross, a design laid out on a horizontal surface of many small pits forming a cross inside two concentric circles. Among other things, it served as a way to read and keep track of the 260-day calendar.
Metal bells, perhaps from West Mexico, show the face of Tlaloc, a god who controlled rain and made the land fertile. (Photo: Invaluable.com)
Teotihuacán’s rulers shared their knowledge with the elite of other areas. Pecked crosses began to appear in various parts of western Mexico – and that wasn’t all. Looking very carefully, archaeologists in this area begin to find clay earspools with the seal of Tlaloc, the storm god associated with Teotihuacán.
“They are very small,” Jiménez told us. “These plugs are so small that no one noticed them for a long time. Now we find them in Cuitzeo, in the center of Jalisco, and even down in Colima and the south of Zacatecas. But the point is: this kind of earspool does not exist in Teotihuacán!”
Clay earspools, 2.5 cm wide, carry the image of Tlaloc, made with a mold. (Photo Justin Kerr)
What we are seeing, says Jiménez, is “the beginning of an institution which unites the elite in an information network, a prestige network. They are markers saying ‘I have a position in a global cosmovision.’”
Jiménez had been talking about the Classic period of Mesoamerican chronology, but now he moved to the Early Postclassic, A.D. 900 to 1200. “Even as far away as southern New Mexico,” said the archaeologist, “we find representations of Tlaloc painted on pots. Now, those people, at the same time, were working turquoise. So between 1000 and 1200, we’re talking about a real boom of globalization in Mesoamerica, especially with respect to trade in cacao and lead-based ceramics.”
“Trade from Chiapas and Guatemala via the coast goes to Chichén Itzá, then Chichén Itzá sends it to Tula and Tula will distribute it to all its allies.”
Imported cocoa in an imported bowl
Archaeologist Peter Jiménez, discusses ancient globalization with participants at the Café Scientifique, organized by ITESO University, Guadalajara.
As a result, says Jiménez, “A campesino in Tula has access to cacao and the jicara (gourd) he drinks it from is imported from Chiapas. Those jicaras, by the way, traveled across the west, all the way to the Pacific coast… and we are talking about bulk quantities.
“While a campesino in Chaco Canyon, New Mexico, enjoys a cup of cocoa, turquoise from New Mexico is traveling down the coast and arriving in Chichén Itzá. And copper bells made in Michoacán end up both in New Mexico and in Chichén Itzá. This is globalization.”
High above the shore of Lake Chapala, I got an inkling as to why the people of the Teuchitlán Tradition gave up that tradition, leading archaeologists to believe they had vanished. In reality, somewhere between A.D. 400 and 700, they succumbed to the lure of new gadgets, new fads, new ideas and new awarenesses, shucking off old beliefs and old customs. In other words, they were doing then what we are doing now and have always been doing: out with the hoop skirts, carriages, wigs and typewriters and in with the smartphones. They were just like us!
The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.
Covid goes out to surf in the sea off a Veracruz beach
Covid – much nicer than the disease of the same name – is a mixed breed female dog, but best known now as an avid surfer. The golden-coated canine made quite a splash this week, surfing her way into various newspaper and television reports.
The Milenio newspaper reported that Covid, just a few months old at the time, was abandoned (or forgotten) by a group of tourists who visited the Villa del Mar beach during the pandemic to have a few drinks.
“They left her, abandoned and tied up, but there are people with a good heart like [beach palapa owner] Reyna, who adopted her,” Luis Silvestre Osorio, who works at the palapa, told news website e-consulta.
“She was a little thing, a baby, and … [she was left tied up for] three or four hours in the sun until [Reyna] told us to take her to the palapa,” he said.
Soon after, she was given her memorable name. Now a healthy three-year-old, Covid hits the waves every day with Luis, her surfing coach.
She has an “adventurous spirit,” Silvestre told local broadcaster RTV, adding that she gets stressed if she doesn’t go into the sea for a swim, or a surf, every day.
Covid’s owner is Reyna, but the true “queen” (reina in Spanish) of Villa del Mar beach is Covid, reported RTV.
