The recreational yacht Bonanza is back in service, after two months at anchor following the destructive fallout from Hurricane Otis in October. (Carlos Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)
The recreational yacht Bonanza resumed offering tours of the area of La Quebrada, Acapulco after being anchored for two months. The 410-passenger Bonanza was the only traditional yacht to survive Hurricane Otis, the Category 5 storm that devastated Acapulco and sank hundreds of boats in the surrounding waters.
The Bonanza gave two tours on Saturday, returning to its daily itinerary of sunset and twilight trips around Acapulco Bay. It will also offer a special tour to celebrate the New Year.
The Bonanza will take sightseers to see the world-famous cliff divers at La Quebrada. (clavadistaslaquebrada.com)
Before departing from the Paseo del Pescador on Saturday, the yacht received the blessing of Father Agustín Arvizon, who blessed the vessel with holy water in an onboard Mass before sending it off with its first passengers.
“This was a very complicated situation due to the damages the vessel suffered, but today, we are [again] at work to serve our visitors during this vacation season,” said Irma Reyes Tinoco, accountant for the Bonanza.
Reyes Tinoco also drew attention to the fact that the boat’s reconstruction was a team effort by its employees and operators, and that it was financed by private investment.
Most of the boats at anchor in Acapulco were destroyed by Hurricane Otis. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)
“We had a very difficult time these past two months, but thanks to the provisions provided by the government, we were able to survive,” said employee Juan Carlos Palotzin during the inauguration on Saturday. The Bonanza provides direct employment to 60 people.
Recreational boat tours in Acapulco had already endured a slow recovery following the COVID-19 pandemic. The Bonanza was one of only two boat tours still operating before Hurricane Otis made landfall on Oct. 25.
The hurricane sank recreational yacht Acarey with 20 crew members on board, all of whom perished. The magazine Proceso reported that the boat’s owner obliged the crew to remain aboard the Acarey despite knowing that Hurricane Otis had reached Category 5 status. The Bonanza had eight employees on board the night that Hurricane Otis hit Acapulco, but all survived.
Acapulco saw a welcome return of tourists over the Christmas holiday, and is prepared to put on its annual fireworks show on New Year’s Eve.
While old standbys should always be on the list when visiting Mexico City, this vast metropolis is teeming with new projects that delight all the senses. 2023, like most years, has brought with it newly minted hotels, shiny new dining rooms, unforgettable cocktails and even a new museum dedicated to one of the city’s most famous architects.
A few very nice hotel options opened in Mexico City this year including two that we covered in a more extensive piece: Volga and a revamp of what is now the Hotel San Fernando in Condesa. Volga’s ambiance is more for the young, jet-setting crowd, with dance music pumped through the sound system and a hip rooftop hang space where you can have a drink and get a breathtaking view of the city. Once inside the sleek black marble and earth-toned rooms, however, you can easily leave the party behind and chill. Formerly a ho-hum hotel in a gorgeous Art Deco building, the Hotel San Fernando was revamped this year into adorable home-away-from-home apartments with a great bar downstairs and breezy rooftop patio just steps from Parque México in Colonia Condesa.
Colima 71
Colima 71 is now one of the few hotels with over a dozen rooms in the heart of the Roma. Located in a building redesigned by Alberto Kalach, best known as the architect of the José Vasconcelos Library, its rooms are more spacious than you’d expect in a former elementary school – almost every category has a small outdoor patio or balcony. An all-day barista will keep you fueled in the main lobby if you want to work, or you can take advantage of the honor bar for an end-of-the-day mezcal or whiskey. If you are a member of SoHo House you were probably particularly excited this year when they opened up their first location in Latin America in a Baroque mansion in Colonia Juárez with a luxurious pool and tequila bar for the kind of high-society socializing that the brand is known for.
This city’s food and drink scene is an ever-evolving landscape of locations – the good ones stick around and the others are usually sloughed off pretty quickly. Any list is only the tip of the iceberg and of course very subjective. But here’s one anyway. The city can always use more good pizza, so I was happy to see the folks from the restaurant Sartoria open Pizzeria della Madonna. Located in Roma Norte, the pizzeria works with a wood-fired oven and serves interesting pie combinations like mushroom ragu with artichokes, black olives and Italian ham or black and white truffle cream, guanciale and cacio e pepe cream. As you can expect from its owners, who also own wine bar Bottega next door, Pizzeria della Madonna has an extensive international wine list. The restaurant’s casual but hip ambiance makes it a great date night spot.
If you hanker for an excellent bagel with lox or made-from-scratch pastrami sandwiches, Mendl Delicatessen opened this year to much fanfare and with a throwback décor reminiscent of the delis of old. In a similar nostalgic vein, the team from restaurant Cicatriz opened Ojo Rojo Diner this year, complete with swivel bar stools and 1950s-inspired mint green decor. The Patty Smith Melt is divine and you won’t find another root beer float in the entire city. Blaxicocina in Narvarte has brought soul food to Mexico City, with a fried chicken and chorizo hash with ancho-corn cream sauce that beautifully represents the Southern-meets-Mexican flavors on the menu.
For libations, NIV wine bar popped up in March with an extensive list of top-quality wine from around the world and small plates like hummus and mixed olives that will keep you fueled through a few good bottles. Winning a spot on this year’s 50 Best Bars in North America list was newcomer Rayo Bar, which opened its buzzy, modern rooftop bar this past spring. They serve some of the city’s most interesting and solidly Mexican cocktails with a well-rounded list of local spirits that go beyond just mezcal and tequila. Rayo incorporates endemic flavors like palo santo, guava and hoja santa bitters in its list of ten handcrafted cocktails that you can taste before you order from glass stopper bottles that arrive at your table along with a small welcome snack.
There’s much more to the city than just eating, drinking and sleeping on high thread count sheets though. This year saw the opening of the Casa Museo Pedro Ramírez, which honors the late, great architect of the Museum of Anthropology, the Estadio Azteca and the New Basilica of Guadalupe with a tour through his former home, a look at the plans and documents he used to create his masterpieces and a peek into his daily life.
The Yayem travel brand, which started as an app for exploring local haunts and hangouts around the world, opened a coworking space in a stunning Colonia Roma mansion that makes going to work every day a pleasure. The space hosts mezcal tastings, taco tours and other activities for its members and non-members alike. Finally, the new Bomboti shop and gallery in Polanco is the combined effort of a local interior design firm and visual artist for Mexican-made art or household goods. It has a vast collection of luxury ceramics, local and international fashion and decadent design pieces for yourself or a lucky recipient.
Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.
Mexican workers will enjoy a bumper twelve national holiday days in 2024, thanks to the upcoming presidential elections. (Claudio Divizia/Shutterstock)
Mexican workers will enjoy nine public holidays and up to five unofficial holidays in 2024, thanks to the extra two days’ leave for the elections in June and transfer of power in October.
Mexico normally celebrates seven official public holidays per year, which are treated as mandatory rest days in the Federal Labor Law. Anyone who works on these days must be paid a double wage. In 2024, these days will be celebrated on:
Monday Jan. 1: New Year’s Day
Monday Feb. 5: Anniversary of the 1917 Constitution
Monday Mar. 18: Birthday of President Benito Juárez
Wednesday May 1: International Workers’ Day
Monday Sep. 16: Independence Day
Monday Nov. 18: Mexican Revolution Day
Wednesday Dec. 25: Christmas Day
Additionally, Sunday, June 2 will also be treated as a mandatory rest day for federal and local elections, as will Tuesday, Oct. 1, for the Transfer of Federal Executive Power, when the new president will be inaugurated.
Children across Mexico will return to school on January 8, 2024. (José Vargas/Cuartoscuro)
Mexico also celebrates an additional five unofficial holidays, which some companies, banks and public universities choose to give their employees and students as days off. In 2024, these dates will be:
Thursday Mar. 28 and Friday Mar. 29: Easter Thursday and Good Friday
Friday May 10: Mothers’ Day
Saturday Nov. 2: Day of the Dead
Thursday Dec. 12: Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe
Mexican public school students have been on vacation since Dec. 18 and will return to classes on Jan. 8. The official Easter school vacation runs for two weeks from Mar. 25, and the school year ends on Tuesday, July 16. Summer vacation usually runs for six weeks in July and August.
The meteorological phenomenon of inversion means polluted air is trapped over the city. (Edgar Negrete/Cuartoscuro)
Mexico City authorities warned of the risk of air pollution in the capital on Tuesday due to inversion, a meteorological phenomenon that traps contamination.
The Mexico City Atmospheric Monitoring System (SIMAT) said on the X social media platform that inversion at a height of 3,050 meters would remain throughout the day.
The Mexican capital is home to tens of millions of motorists. With exhaust fumes trapped by the thermal inversion, much of the gases remain hanging over the city. (Shutterstock)
According to the United States National Weather Service, a temperature inversion, or thermal inversion, is “a layer in the atmosphere in which air temperature increases with height.”
SIMAT said that inversion “causes an extreme condition of atmospheric stability,” noting that there is “no movement of air” during the phenomenon and that “contaminants accumulate during hours, increasing their concentration and the risk to health.”
According to the Finnish Meteorological Institute, “an inversion can prevent the rise and dispersal of pollutants from the lower layers of the atmosphere, because warm air above cooler air acts like a lid, preventing vertical mixing and trapping the pollution material at the breathing level.”
Despite the presence of inversion in Mexico City, as of midday Tuesday authorities hadn’t issued a formal air quality alert. Three such alerts have been issued this year, all in the first quarter.
The United Nations declared Mexico City to be the most polluted city on the planet in 1992.
While air pollution is still a problem at times, the situation in the capital and surrounding areas has improved significantly over the past three decades.
The former national airline is officially back, despite bad weather forcing a delay. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
The new state-owned commercial airline Mexicana de Aviación began operations on Tuesday with the inaugural flight departing the Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) near Mexico City shortly after 8 a.m.
But the flight didn’t go as planned: it was supposed to land at the new airport in Tulum, Quintana Roo, but instead touched down in Mérida, Yucatán, due to poor weather in the Caribbean coast resort town.
The return of Mexicana has been a key policy in President López Obrador’s administration. (Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro)
Heavy cloud cover in Tulum affected visibility and forced the aircraft to reroute to the Yucatán capital, where it landed just before 10:30 a.m. Poor weather has affected other flights headed for and departing Quintana Roo on Tuesday morning.
Later on Tuesday, the Mexicana plane left Mérida after refueling and landed in Tulum just before 12:30 p.m.
Mexicana’s take-off from AIFA was broadcast live at President López Obrador’s morning press conference.
“Mexicana de Aviación is flying again,” López Obrador said of the revived airline, which was Mexico’s flag carrier until it ceased operations in 2010.
Mexicana originally operated between 1921 and 2010, before collapsing under mismanagement. The ‘new’ airline is operated by the Defense Ministry, having licensed use of the Mexicana brand. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
“This is an emblematic airline and during the government [of former president Vicente] Fox it was privatized. It was a public company and it was given to people close to Fox in one of those favors that were done with electoral purposes,” he said.
“… The important thing is that this airline from Mexico is being rescued after acts of corruption and these handovers of public assets to private individuals,” López Obrador said.
“This airline will be managed by the Olmeca-Maya-Mexica [state-owned, military-run] company, which is going to manage airports, the Maya Train railroad and Mexicana de Aviación,” he said.
López Obrador has used the military for a wide range of non-traditional tasks during his presidency, leading to claims that he is militarizing the country. The president rejects such assertions.
Mexicana’s maiden flight was operated by the army on a military-owned aircraft. It took off from one army-built airport and was headed to another before being rerouted to Mérida.
From “consideration” to take-off in just over a year
In May 2021, López Obrador said that there was a proposal from “Mexican investors” to revive Mexicana and that the government would “help” to get the airline back in the sky, albeit without using public money for a “rescue.”
The private sector plan never eventuated, and in October 2022 – just 14 months before today’s inauguration – AMLO confirmed a media report that the government was considering the creation of a state-owned commercial airline to be operated by the army.
“The economic viability analysis is being done. … There are a lot of places that can’t be reached by plane because they’re not served by the current airlines,” he said at the time.
Olmeca-Maya-Mexica chief José Gerardo Vega Rivera said Tuesday that Mexicana will operate flights to and from 14 airports in the following states: México state (where AIFA is located), Baja California, Campeche, Chiapas, Guerrero, Jalisco, Nuevo León, Quintana Roo, Sinaloa, Tabasco, Tamaulipas and Yucatán.
Among the routes the airline will fly are ones between AIFA and the following cities: Tijuana, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta, Mérida, Mazatlán, Campeche, Chetumal and Tulum.
The new Tulum airport, another major government infrastructure project, was chosen as the inaugural destination, although bad weather forced a diversion to Mérida. (Mara Lezama/X)
Vega said that flights from AIFA to Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas; Uruapan, Michoacán; Huatulco, Oaxaca; and Ciudad Ixtepec, Oaxaca, will commence at a later date.
“Mexicana will continue increasing its capacity in order to provide quality and affordable service with high standards of safety, efficiency and comfort, always under the premise of serving Mexico and contributing to the development of the country and the well-being of the population,” he said.
The El Financiero newspaper reported that the only tickets currently being sold on the Mexicana website are for flights to and from nine airports: Tijuana, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta, Mérida, Mazatlán, Campeche, Chetumal, Tulum and AIFA.
The Mexicana website was out of action for an extended period on Tuesday morning, but was back online shortly before 11 a.m.
The airline, which will allow passengers to travel with up to 25 kilograms of luggage without incurring additional costs, doesn’t have any current plans to fly to international destinations.
The inaugural flight
Speaking at AIFA on Tuesday morning, Mexicana director Sergio Montaño highlighted that passengers on the airline’s first flight paid 1,558 pesos (US $92) for an AIFA-Tulum round trip.
He said that other airlines charge an average of 2,309 pesos (US $136) – or 48% more – for the same trip.
“The price was spectacular,” Miguel, one of 147 passengers on the Tuesday morning flight, said in an interview.
Mexicana offers discounted tickets to flyers, opening up Mexico’s air travel market to a new sector of the population. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
“… We need these options, we’re very happy. We saved around US $250, about 4,000 pesos,” said Miguel, who was traveling with three family members.
The first Mexicana plane to take off was a Boeing 737, but the airline will also operate two smaller Embraer 145 aircraft during its initial phase of operations.
“Mexicana is recommencing flights with new generation planes, including aircraft with a shorter wingspan in order to increase connectivity to airports where large planes can’t operate,” Vega said.
If you’re on a quest to understand Mexican humor – or at least to find the best Mexican memes to share with your friends – we’ve got you covered! Here’s this week’s curated collection with a translation, background, any relevance to current events, and hopefully, a good chuckle.
Meme translation: *January 1st* “Afternoon, do you have any bread?” “Yes, but it’s from last year!” “Me:” “the baker:” What does it meme? In many places in Mexico, bread is bought at one’s neighborhood bakery. This means that you likely count the baker as, if not a friend, at least an acquaintance…someone you’d wave to on the street and likely make a bit of friendly banter with. To be sure, these kinds of short interactions are why I believe Mexico deals much less with a society-wide loneliness problem: you basically have to see and interact with other people to get anything done! So if you happen to stroll into your local panadería at the start of the year, you are now armed with a joke.
Meme translation: “This kid came for bread and my parents made him decorate the bakery hahaha!” What does it meme? Speaking of panaderías – and most local shops, for that matter – lots of them put up decorations for the holidays. And because Mexico is a country where particularly older adults feel pretty okay asking younger people to do things for them (and have a reasonable expectation that they will), it’s possible a trip to a local establishment could get you roped into some impromptu decorating!
Meme translation: “How I’ve always wanted to look during winter.” “How I always wind up looking.” What does it meme? It’s true: every year I do my best to look like a cool and breezy blonde version of Anne Hathaway. But most of the time – at least in my house – I look like the dude below. Why inside, you ask?
Why? Because there’s no indoor climate control, of course! 55 degrees outside is 55 degrees inside, with most dwellings sealed from the outside about as well as a treehouse is. So if you’re friolenta (cold-natured) like me, you’re probably bundled up under several layers for most of the winter. (I also recommend finding sunny spots in your house and sitting there to warm up like a napping cat.)
Meme translation: “Me alone at the company Christmas party because I’m the owner, the employee, and the everything.” What does it meme? Ah, the lament of the freelancer. This was me for years, though thankfully this year I’ve finally got a full-time job!
The couple weeks before Christmas can be a lonely time for freelancers in Mexico as we watch our traditional employee friends and family members attend lavish Christmas parties (usually called “posadas,” though they’re not the traditional religious kind) put on by the companies they work for, complete with three-course meal and so many raffled gifts that a good half of people walk away with something.
The woman pasted into the scene above, by the way, is Peruvian TV star Laura Bozzo, who was especially famous in the late 80s and 90s for having a Jerry Springer-type talk show. That particular expression of hers is just priceless, and has made for great meme fodder for a while now.
Meme translation: “Ready for Christmas” “Merry Crisis” What does it meme? Is it just me, or has the theme worldwide in humor this year been a kind of resigned nihilism?
“Crisis” is the same word in English and Spanish, and pretty much everyone knows the phrase “Merry Christmas” in English. If you’re going to have a crisis, you might as well try to enjoy it, I suppose!
Meme translation: “When you re-read a romantic book that you loved as a teenager.” What does it meme? Oh, how our notions of romance change through the years! This meme format has been used for quite a few things, but this is one of my favorites. It makes me think very particularly about a book so many of my high school students in Querétaro were carrying around in the mid-aughts, Twilight (in Spanish it’s called Crepúsculo), one of the few competitors with their Blackberries for their attention during free time. “Oh, you have to read it Ms. Sarah, it’s so good!” my students would tell me.
I never did read it, though it was impossible not to absorb the basic storyline via osmosis. An immortal, ancient being who “falls in love” with some high school chick? Yikes.
Meme translation: “Now that I have kids, I finally understand that scene in Return of the Jedi when Yoda is so tired of answering Luke’s questions that he just dies.” What does it meme? This one is dedicated to the parents out there whose kids are suddenly out of school for a very long Christmas vacation and are looking to be entertained even though their parents (you) are still working.
All we want for Christmas is a nap, amiright?
Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.
Dec. 22: People enjoy a Pablo Montero concert in the Zócalo in Mexico City. (EDGAR NEGRETE LIRA/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Take a visual tour of Mexico – where it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, from Mexico City to Xalapa – with this selection of pictures from the week.
Xalapa, Veracruz
Dec. 17: A Christmas parade of “illuminated branches” in Xalapa, Veracruz. (FOTO: YERANIA ROLÓN/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Zacatecas, Zacatecas
Dec. 18: Families of missing people protested at various government offices in response to the new “census” of disappeared people released by the federal government. (EDGAR CHÁVEZ /CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Chilpancingo, Guerrero
Dec. 18: The San Mateo Christmas and New Year’s Fair in Chilpancingo opened with a traditional parade and a wrestling match. (DASSAEV TÉLLEZ ADAME/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Piedras Negras, Coahuila
Dec. 19: The exodus of migrants continues through Coahuila towards the Eagle Pass border crossing to seek asylum in the United States. (CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Salvatierra, Guanajuato
Dec. 20: Families of one of the victims of the Dec. 17 Christmas party massacre in Salvatierra, Guanajuato held a vigil and protest. (DIEGO COSTA/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Mexico City
Dec. 20: Christmas piñatas for sale in the the Mercado Jamaica in the capital. (GRACIELA LÓPEZ /CUARTOSCURO.COM)
Ciudad Ixtepec, Oaxaca
Dec. 22: Dozens awaited the arrival of the first interoceanic passenger train at the Ciudad Ixtepec, Oaxaca station. (CAROLINA JIMÉNEZ/CUARTOSCURO.COM)
One of the biggest stories of the year in Mexico was the nomination of two women to represent the major political parties in the 2024 presidential election. (MND)
This year, we had events, issues and achievements that were, and are:
Unprecedented
The strongest hurricane to have ever made landfall on Mexico’s Pacific coast; the selection of female presidential candidates by all of the major political parties.
Tragic and concerning
A detention center fire that claimed the lives of dozens of migrants; hot-weather related deaths and drought; dozens of fatal accidents.
Of major importance to Mexico’s relationship with the United States
The fight against fentanyl; record high migration.
Of great significance to the future of Mexico
The opening of major infrastructure projects; Supreme Court rulings against government policies; the nomination of two women as candidates for the major parties in 2024.
Without further ado, let’s look back at some of the biggest news stories in Mexico in 2023.
Hurricane Otis devastates Acapulco after making landfall as a Cat. 5 storm
Hurricane Otis laid waste to Acapulco in October, although the city is now beginning the road to recovery. (Dassaev Téllez/Cuartoscuro)
For the foreseeable future, there will be a distinct “before” and “after” Oct. 25, 2023, for the residents of the resort city of Acapulco.
Almost two months after the initial devastation, the effects of the storm are still visible in Acapulco and recovery efforts are ongoing, but on a positive note the local tourism industry — the city’s lifeblood — is slowly coming back to life.
Otis strengthened from a tropical storm to a major hurricane extremely rapidly, catching authorities, residents and tourists off guard.
President López Obrador said two days after the hurricane hit that Otis was an “extraordinary phenomenon” whose rapid strengthening was unprecedented.
However, he asserted that residents and tourists did receive sufficient warning prior to the storm’s arrival, and said they took shelter as best as they could.
Otis was one of four hurricanes to make landfall in Mexico during the 2023 Pacific hurricane season. The others were Hillary (downgraded to tropical storm status before reaching Baja California), Lidia (Cat. 4 at landfall in Jalisco) and Norma (Cat. 1 at landfall in Baja California Sur).
None of those came close to the strength of, or caused anywhere near as much damage as, Otis — a major hurricane of the highest order and quite possibly the biggest story in Mexico this year.
Women selected to represent major parties at 2024 presidential election
The next president of Mexico will be the country’s first female leader, as Claudia Sheinbaum and Xóchitl Galvez prepare to battle in the 2024 election. (MND)
Seven weeks before Otis barged through Acapulco, there were two days that were among the most significant in Mexican politics this year.
Gálvez, an indigenous Otomí woman from Hidalgo, will represent the National Action Party, the Institutional Revolutionary Party and the Democratic Revolution Party — a left-right alliance now known as Strength and Heart for Mexico — at the June 2, 2024 election, while Sheinbaum, the granddaughter of European Jewish immigrants who describes herself as “more Mexican than mole,” will stand as the candidate for Morena and its allies, namely the Labor Party and the Ecological Green Party of Mexico.
It will be the first time that two women backed by Mexico’s major political parties will face off at a presidential election, making it almost certain that Mexicans will get their first ever female president on Oct. 1, 2024, the day the victor will be sworn in.
“Xóchitl and Claudia were chosen by their respective parties as the most competitive candidates from a pool of mostly men,” Mexico News Daily chief news editor Kate Bohné noted in a recent article on the rise of women in Mexican politics.
President López Obrador has already handed over a symbolic “baton of command” to Sheinbaum, anointing her as the new leader of his “fourth transformation” political project, while Gálvez emerged from relative obscurity at the beginning of the year to become one of Mexico’s best known politicians.
So who’s going to win next June? Polls have consistently found that Sheinbaum has a clear advantage over Gálvez, and one recent one concluded that the former mayor and political protégé of López Obrador has double the support of the National Action Party senator.
The two women are currently the only confirmed candidates for next year’s presidential election, but the Citizens Movement party has indicated it will also field a candidate. Nuevo León Governor Samuel García — probably Mexico’s best known politician under the age of 40 — was set to be that person, but he withdrew from the contest earlier this month amid political turmoil in his home state.
While the major parties’ selection of Sheinbaum and Gálvez as their new flag bearers was major news in Mexico this year, the election of one of them as Mexico’s first female president next June has the potential to be the biggest story of 2024. We’ll be watching closely.
Migrant detention center fire kills 40, but immigration chief keeps his job
Migrants at a Ciudad Juarez detention center set fire to mattresses after being informed they would be deported, killing 40 in the ensuing inferno. (Juan Ortega/Cuartoscuro)
Forty Central American and South American men were killed and close to 30 others were injured.
A Venezuelan man allegedly started the fire by setting mattresses alight when he and other migrants were informed that they were going to be deported or moved to another immigration facility.
Garduño and another high-ranking INM official allegedly committed “criminal conduct” by “failing to fulfill their duty to supervise, protect and provide security to the people and facilities” under their control, according to the Federal Attorney General’s Office.
Despite being charged, Garduño remains head of the INM as he awaits trial, even though President López Obrador accepted that that the governments of countries mourning the deaths of their citizens in the fire were “right” to demand the resignation of Mexican immigration officials.
INM director Francisco Garduño at a hearing in April. (Juan Ortega/Cuartoscuro.com)
Emilio Álvarez Icaza, an independent federal senator and former head of the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights, described the detention center fire tragedy as a “state crime” and López Obrador’s “Ayotzinapa,” a reference to the 43 students who were abducted and presumably murdered during the presidency of Enrique Peña Nieto.
The families of the 40 migrants killed in the fire were awarded 3.5 million pesos (about US $205,000) each in government compensation — cold comfort for the loss of their loved ones.
Shortly after the tragedy, we reported on the abuses migrants have allegedly suffered while detained at government detention centers since Garduño became Mexico’s immigration chief. Those allegations were detailed in more than 50 National Human Rights Commission reports dating back to 2019.
Government projects open in a flurry as the end of AMLO’s term draws nigh
In his last full year in office before handing over the presidential sash to his successor next October, President López Obrador has been eager to inaugurate the major infrastructure projects initiated by his government.
Amazon’s commitment to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec project will be a major economic boost to Mexico’s most traditionally deprived region. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)
Another stretch of the Maya Train railroad between Cancún and Palenque, Chiapas, is scheduled to open Dec. 31, while Mexico’s new state-owned commercial airline, which will operate under the revived Mexicana de Aviación brand, will take off for its inaugural flight on Dec. 26.
Among the other projects AMLO has already inaugurated this year is the Mexico City-Toluca passenger railroad, a section of which began operations on Sept. 15, nine years after construction began.
Consequently, it is no surprise that AMLO has been so eager to inaugurate the projects while he is still in office, as he seeks to be seen as a president who doesn’t just make promises, but delivers on them as well.
Homicides down, but violence still a major problem
Violence remains a significant issue in Mexico, despite a general decline in statistics. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)
The federal government has made much of the decline in homicides this year, but the reality is that Mexico still has a serious violence problem.
Let’s first take a look at the murder numbers.
There were 27,354 homicides in the first 11 months of 2023, according to government data, for a daily average of 82 murders.
The average number of daily homicides between January and November is almost 10% lower than the average of 91 recorded in 2022, during which there were a total of 33,287 murders.
While 2023 will almost certainly be the least violent year since 2016 in terms of total homicides, violence remains a major problem in various parts of Mexico, including in certain municipalities in Guanajuato, México state, Baja California, Chihuahua, Jalisco and Michoacán — the six most violent states in the first 11 months of the year.
Soldiers on patrol in Guerrero in May. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)
Arrests are made in connection with some homicides, but impunity remains extremely commonplace in Mexico, with less than 4% of criminal investigations solved.
“The criminals are emboldened, because they know there’s practically zero chance of facing any punishment,” Eduardo Guerrero, a Mexico City-based security consultant, told The New York Times.
Ovidio Guzmán, seen here during an unsuccessful 2019 arrest attempt, was finally taken into custody and extradited to the United States this year. (Photo: CEPROPIE)
Accidents and other tragic incidents take a heavy toll
Twenty-seven people died in a collision on a Tamaulipas highway in May, one of the worst road accidents of the year. (SSP Tamaulipas/Facebook)
In addition to violence, accidents and other fatal incidents claimed the lives of many Mexicans this year. Listed below, in chronological order, are some of the ones we reported on.
Two Mexicans, a woman and a man, were taken hostage by Hamas during the Palestinian militant group’s attack on Israel on Oct. 7. The woman, Ilana Gritzewsky, was released on Nov. 30.
Mexico swelters through heat waves as drought afflicts most of the country
Mexico’s continued water stress will be felt everywhere, particularly in terms of the agricultural crop yield, which depends on 70% of the national water supply. (Wikimedia Commons)
We reported in late June that hot weather was a major factor in 112 deaths in Mexico between March 19 and June 24, with the vast majority occurring during Mexico’s third heat wave, a three-week period of sweltering conditions in June.
In addition to heatwaves, Mexico was afflicted by widespread drought this year. We reported in early October that three-quarters of Mexico (74.96% of national territory to be precise) was officially in drought, up from just 12.66% of the country a year earlier.
There were more than 400 heat-related deaths on record this year, as punishing heat waves tested the limits of the human body. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)
The lack of rain depleted dams, caused crop failures and claimed the lives of large numbers of livestock in different parts of the country.
“We are experiencing a tremendous crisis,” Adalberto Velasco Antillón, president of the Regional Livestock Union of Jalisco, said in September. “Thousands and thousands of cattle have died due to the drought problem.”
In a “Mexico in Numbers” report published last month, we noted that “not since 2012 has drought in Mexico been so widespread — with 1,614 municipalities across the country in a state of drought.”
Mexico’s Drought Monitor, published every two weeks by the National Meteorological Service, shows that drought conditions eased through October, November and the first half of December, with just over 47% of national territory classified as being affected by some level of drought on Dec. 15.
President López Obrador has fought a long-running battle with various members of the judiciary in 2023. His spat with the country’s Supreme Court, over electoral reforms, was one of the most significant. (Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro)
The presence of protesting court workers on the streets was a very visible manifestation of a long-running battle between the nation’s judiciary and President López Obrador, who frequently criticizes judges, accuses them of handing down rulings that favor the nation’s wealthy elite rather than ordinary people, and rails against the high salaries earned by some of them, such as Supreme Court (SCJN) justices.
While AMLO succeeded in angering court workers by proposing — and achieving — the elimination of 13 public trusts that help fund the judiciary, Mexico’s highest court angered the president on repeated occasions this year when it handed down rulings against his government.
López Obrador asserts that Mexico’s judicial branch of government needs to be “renewed” and that ordinary citizens must contribute to the “renewal” because “the people are the ones who can purify public life.”
The president appointed Lenia Batres to the Supreme Court, after the Senate failed to approve any of his nominees. (Senator Ana Lilia Rivera/X)
Consequently, he intends to propose a constitutional change in 2024 that would allow citizens to directly elect Supreme Court justices and other judges. The success of such an initiative will likely hinge on Morena and its allies winning a supermajority in both houses of Congress at next year’s election.
Five SCJN justices have been appointed during the term of the current government, but — in another swipe at the court — AMLO claims that two of them have “betrayed” his political agenda.
A breakthrough in the fight against fentanyl?
A National Guard agent with bags of fentanyl confiscated in Mexico. (Guardia Nacional)
The fight against fentanyl — the powerful synthetic opioid largely responsible for the overdose crisis in the United States — was a dominant issue in various meetings between Mexican and U.S. officials in 2023.
There appeared to be a breakthrough last month when Biden and Chinese President Xi Jinping agreed at talks in California that China — a major supplier of precursor chemicals used to make fentanyl — would work to stem the export of goods related to the production of the opioid.
In his own meeting with Xi last month, López Obrador spoke about “the need to exchange information and lessons learned in the fight against the illicit trafficking of precursor chemicals” used to manufacture fentanyl.
AMLO revealed in April that he had written to his Chinese counterpart to seek his support in the fight against fentanyl after a group of United States lawmakers requested that he ask China not to send the synthetic opioid and precursor chemicals to Mexico, the United States and Canada.
A Chinese Foreign Ministry spokesperson subsequently declared that “there is no such thing as illegal trafficking of fentanyl between China and Mexico,” but the Chinese government now appears to accept that the opposite is true.
President López Obrador met with Chinese President Xi Jinping for the first time in November. (Facebook/Andrés Manuel López Obrador)
Amid criticism from some U.S. Republican Party politicians that Mexico isn’t doing enough to combat fentanyl and the criminal groups that ship it north, Mexican officials have been at pains to demonstrate that the federal government’s commitment to the fight against the drug is indeed wholehearted. The government has frequently provided data on confiscations to prove its point.
While there is no apparent shortage of illicit fentanyl in the United States, there is evidence that suggests that Mexican criminal organizations such as the Sinaloa Cartel — numerous members of which were the subject of sanctions announced by the U.S. this year — are sending less of the drug north.
Data from U.S. Customs and Border Protection shows that the quantity of fentanyl seized at the Mexico-United States border fell almost 60% between April and October.
Migration another key focus of the Mexico-U.S. relationship
Migrants attempt to cross the Rio Bravo between Coahuila and Texas. (Cuartoscuro)
However, the ultimate goal of most of the migrants who enter Mexico via its southern border is to reach the United States. Obtaining documents from Comar or the National Immigration Institute can protect them from arrest as they move through the country.
Addressing the root causes of migration, mainly through foreign aid and development programs, has long been a shared goal of the two countries, but AMLO believes that the United States could do more, and has urged the U.S. Congress to approve additional funding for the region.
During his meeting with Biden last month, López Obrador — who hosted a regional migration summit in Chiapas in October — said that the United States’ new legal migration pathways for citizens of countries including Venezuela, Nicaragua and Haiti are “a humane way to address the migratory phenomenon” and noted that Biden “is the first president in the United States in recent times who has not built walls.”
However, the Biden administration has replaced sections of wall, and Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro Mayorkas announced in October that the U.S. government — effectively because it has no other option — would “install additional physical barriers and roads in the Rio Grande Valley Sector” in Texas, a move AMLO described as a “a backward step” that won’t solve the migration problem.
With upcoming elections in both Mexico and the United States — and with large numbers of people continuing to leave their homelands to seek a better life in the U.S. — migration is set to remain a major issue on both sides of the border in 2024.
Making and selling bread in San Blas many years ago. (Courtesy Kelly Michelle Roske)
“People have told me for years that I need to write a book,” says Survivor Kelly Roske.
If she ever gets round to writing it, that book will chronicle her lifelong struggle to “live wild,” wandering Hawaii, the western US, Mexico and even short stints in Africa, which includes starring in an episode of Discovery Channel’s “Naked and Afraid.”
“I’ve moved 50 times in 25 years, on no money hitchhiking, busses,” Roske explains. Hers is a lifestyle determined in part by fate and part by her whims.
Living a nomadic life “off the land”
Roske remembers her childhood as “extremely restrictive,” “tasting freedom” when she moved to live with her “hippie” Dad on Maui.
At age 20, she was widowed with two toddlers and only a $500/month Social Security stipend in one of the US’s most expensive states. Instead of the typical single mother life of work and babysitter, she and her family simply made do without a house or apartment, living in cars, tents and shelters they built themselves.
Current temporary digs in Singayta while she looks for her mountain land. (Kelly Michelle Roske)
This tactic brought them closer to nature, as well as affording them mobility. Over the years, The family wandered Hawaii and parts of the western US, crossing several times into Mexico. Her first stint in Mexico was in 2001, arriving in the San Blas, Nayarit area with her two young children after 70 hours on the bus. Locals were afraid for her. “Aren’t you afraid that somebody’s going to come and kill you?” they asked. She admits they did sleep with weapons, but then again, she did that in Maui as well.
She and her children learned many skills, often by trial and error, but even the most resourceful forager needs some money in the modern world. Roske and her kids learned to do all kinds of jobs to make ends meet. In Maui, she worked contacts, landing jobs cleaning mansions. In San Blas, she figured out how to bake using a pot on the stove, making bread and muffins to sell.
She trained as a midwife in Uganda, and in biomagnetic pair therapy after a healer cured her daughter in Mexico. She also learned how to build, using a technique called “super adobe” – sacks filled with earth and cement stacked into a dome shape.
Until very recently, her life included raising four children, and like her, they grew up outdoors, “free” from public schooling via “unschooling” (homeschooling). Today, all four are grown and these apples did not fall far from the tree. All live lives on their own terms, using many of the skills they learned with Mom.
Naked? Yes – Afraid? No
“My favorite thing to do is to be in nature and come back with backpacks… with everything I can make something out of… because I am observant.”
Her unusual lifestyle has gifted her mental stamina and practical skills, resulting in a spot on Naked and Afraid. Cast as a kind of “earth mother” with the nickname Mama Kel, she was whisked off to South Africa, to stand “alone” with her male partner (and a camera crew) to see if the two could survive 21 days in bush. Her partner quit after only 4 days because of an injury, but Roske finished the challenge herself – one of very few women to do so. The show aired in April 2019 with the title “Stalked on All Sides.”
She enjoyed the challenge and is working to get invited on to similar shows.
Current stint in Mexico
Current temporary digs in Singayta while she looks for her mountain land. (Kelly Michelle Roske)
Roske’s lifelong obsession is to have a large isolated piece of land where she can live as she wants. Highly introverted, her dream has always been to live in nature, in as much isolation as possible. She wants little more than books, an internet connection and to be far enough away that she can dance naked outside when she wants.
Roske tried to make this work in the U.S. but has come to realization that it is not economically or socially viable. Taxes, permits, regulations and just the cost of living means that she has had to “don her society gear” to work jobs far more than she would ever want.
Instead, she would rather meet her needs “in a sustainable way,” meaning meeting her physical needs through gardening and collecting from nature. Both Mexico’s lower cost of living and far more laissez-faire attitudes towards regulation promise this.
To get started, she returned to familiar Nayarit to settle temporarily in a small beach village. Although quite “rustic” by most of our standards, she finds herself too much in civilization, especially bothered by male eyes that stare at the only white women with tattoos they may have ever seen.
The long-term goal is to move further into Mexico’s mountainous inland, where she hopes to have enough isolation to live as she pleases. Even in such a small village, she says, “I am at about 5% of what I am when I am living outdoors as far as just being creative – living in nature and weaving the plants together, building and gardening and planting… I have none of that right now.”
There is a bit of time pressure for her right now as well. Although only 48, a lifetime of physical labor has taken its toll, Her goal is to get her land while she is still able to do things like build adobe houses and set up her library. Fortunately, one of her sons has decided to return to Mexico to help make this a reality.
Like many of us have discovered, Mexico offers opportunities that our home countries do not to live as we wish. Roske emphasizes this. “I have always loved Mexico,” she says. “It is always where we wanted to end up. Mexico has always meant Freedom to us.”
Roske is not easy to reach. Your best bet is through Instagram or Facebook.
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.
Christmas in Mexico is an almost month-long season, beginning Dec. 12 with the Feast Day of Our Lady of Guadalupe and lasting until Three Kings’ Day on Jan. 6. It’s a time of parties and posadas (get-togethers at friends’ homes loosely based around Mary and Joseph seeking shelter) – and the giving and sharing of food is an important part of the festivities.
Dinner on Christmas Eve, Nochebuena, is often the highlight. Families gather, often attend midnight mass, and then celebrate at home with a big, multi-course meal of traditional favorites.
While there are regional variations, Christmas Eve dinner usually includes pozole, sweet and savory tamales, roast turkey and sometimes Bacalao Navideño, an unusual dried cod stew made with olives, tomatoes and potatoes. Ensalada de Nochebuena or Ensalada Navideña, a brightly colored salad of dried fruit, chopped vegetables and nuts, is often included too, with each family having their own version. Dessert usually includes buñuelos, fried dough disks sprinkled with cinnamon sugar or dipped in caramel or sugar syrup, classic marranitos, spiced, pig-shaped cookies reminiscent of gingerbread, and sweet tamales filled with pineapple, raisins or dulce de leche (caramel).
Of course, beverages are part of the Christmas celebrations, too! Because December and January are the coldest months of the year, hot drinks, like cozy, comforting atole and champurrado, made from a base of corn flour, are hearty, delicious beverages that warm you up, too (recipe below).
For a more celebratory drink, try Rompope – Mexican eggnog flavored with cinnamon and vanilla – and PoncheNavideño, a sweet Christmas punch that’s a delicious blend of wine, hibiscus tea, fresh and dried fruits, chunks of sugarcane and brandy or rum.
As the New Year approaches, colorful cakes called Rosca de Reyes fill up the bakeries and pastry shops. With a texture similar to fruitcake or panettone, the Mexican version is donut-shaped and decorated with stripes of red and green candied fruit. Although traditionally eaten on Three Kings’ Day (Jan. 6), it’s available earlier in grocery stores and some bakeries.
To help you decide what to serve or to identify what you’re eating at someone else’s house, here is a list of some of the most popular Mexican holiday foods.
Savory Foods for a Mexican Christmas
Christmas Eve Salad, Ensalada de Nochebuena (recipe below)
Traditional Sweets/Desserts for a Mexican Christmas
Sweet Tamales
Buñuelos
Marranitos
Rosca de Reyes
Mexican Christmas Salad (Ensalada de Nochebuena)
For the dressing:
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. orange juice
Salt & pepper to taste
For the salad:
2 cups butter lettuce or other soft-leafed lettuce
2 small beets, roasted or steamed, cooled and sliced or cubed
1 cup fresh pineapple, cubed
1 cup jicama, cubed
¼ cup pomegranate seeds
¼ cup roasted salted peanuts, roasted pecans or slivered almonds
Combine dressing ingredients in a small jar and shake well. Divide lettuce and other salad ingredients between two bowls or salad plates. Sprinkle with the nuts, drizzle with dressing and serve.
Guava Ponche
6 medium-size ripe yellow guavas, unpeeled, stemmed and halved
3 cups water
1 cup dried hibiscus flowers (flor de jamaica)
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 (2-inch) cinnamon sticks
1 cup (8 oz.) sweet red vermouth
1 small Granny Smith apple, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
½ cup fresh lemon or lime juice, plus slices for garnish
¼ tsp. salt
Topo Chico, for serving
Mint sprigs, for garnish
Combine guavas, 3 cups water, hibiscus flowers, sugar and cinnamon sticks in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until guavas are slightly softened, about 15 minutes. Let the liquid cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. For a more intense guava flavor, transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Otherwise, continue with the next step.
Pour guava mixture through a fine mesh strainer set over a medium bowl. Using the back of a spoon, lightly mash guava mixture to release all of the juices; discard solids. Mix guava mixture, vermouth, chopped apple, lemon juice and salt in an ice-filled pitcher or bowl. Garnish with lemon/lime slices. Serve in chilled cocktail glasses. Top each glass with a splash of Topo Chico, and garnish with mint sprigs.
Champurrado (Chocolate Atole)
½ cup masa harina
3 cups water, plus more as needed (see note)
1 cup milk
3½ oz. dark chocolate, broken into pieces, or chocolate chips
3 Tbsp. dark brown sugar/grated piloncillo
1 cinnamon stick or ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
Salt
Place masa into a large saucepan; set over medium heat. Immediately add water in a slow, thin stream, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Bring to a simmer, then whisk in milk, chocolate, sugar and a generous pinch of salt. Cook over low heat until chocolate is melted, about 1 minute. Add cinnamon.Your guide to traditional Mexican Christmas foods
Return to a simmer; lower heat to low. Continue simmering, whisking constantly, for about 5 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick. Thin with additional water, as needed, to create a thick yet drinkable beverage. Taste and add more sugar or salt if desired. Froth with a whisk or molinillo.