Bucerías, Nayarit: A perfect weekend guide

By

-

October 6, 2024

Whether enjoying fresh seafood, strolling the arts scene or watching a fiery sunset, Bucerías captures the magic of a classic Mexican getaway — minus the crowds. — Whether it's enjoying fresh seafood, strolling the art scene or watching a fiery sunset, Bucerías captures the magic of a classic Mexican getaway — minus the crowds. (X)

Bucerías may be less than half an hour from the rattle and hum of Puerto Vallarta, but it feels like another world away. The small village, on the shores of the Bay of Banderas, is a change of pace from the sputtering traffic and all-night party scene of its more famous neighbor.

Picture cobblestone streets lined with colorful houses and draped with bougainvillea, local artisans selling handmade crafts and the sound of waves crashing onto the seemingly endless strip of beach. This hideaway is where you can sip margaritas at a beach bar one minute and explore boutique shops the next. Whether it’s enjoying fresh seafood, strolling the art scene or watching a fiery sunset, Bucerías captures the magic of a classic Mexican getaway — minus the crowds. If you’re looking for the perfect weekend in Bucerías, read on for our three-day itinerary.

Friday

After touching down at Puerto Vallarta International Airport, grab a taxi and head to Hotel Ysuri Bucerías. Perched overlooking the Bay of Banderas, this boutique hotel is a personal favorite for its modern Mexican design with coastal cool energy. Most rooms have ocean views and dreamy beach retreat vibes. Snap a few photos from your private balcony — trust me, you won’t want to forget the view.

Evening

After settling in and shaking off the travel day cobwebs, it’s time to immerse yourself in the dining scene in Bucerías. Head to La Negra, just a short walk from your hotel, for dinner. This trendy spot evokes a beachy, bohemian treehouse vibe with open-air spaces, bamboo and tons of greenery. It also makes a killer margarita and serves a casual yet delicious menu of seafood tacos, pizzas and burgers. The live music and friendly staff only enhance the good energy of this local hotspot.

After dinner, take a stroll along Playa Bucerías, one of the longest continuous beaches along the Bay of Banderas. The sunsets here are pure magic. Watch as the sky shifts through pinks, purples and fiery oranges, reflected on the gently lapping waters of the bay.

@dianac.c17 #2024 #atardecer #viraltiktok #virall #atardeceresperfectos #puertovallarta #buceriasnayarit ♬ sonido original – Diana Cardenas

Saturday

Morning

Start your Saturday with a relaxed breakfast at Paninos, a cozy bakery and cafe just a few blocks from Hotel Ysuri. Go for the freshly baked croissants, fruit smoothies and rich coffee. The cinnamon rolls are absolutely to die for.

Bucerías has a budding art scene, and Saturdays are perfect for strolling through the Bucerías Art District. This bohemian area is lined with galleries showcasing the work of local artists. From contemporary paintings to handmade jewelry, you’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces here. Don’t forget to chat with the artists — it’s one of the cool things to do that adds a great cultural exchange while visiting Mexico.

Afternoon

By now, you’ve worked up an appetite, and Karen’s Place on the beach is the perfect spot to refuel. Located right on the sand, this open-air restaurant offers a great view of the ocean while you enjoy a delicious meal. Order the fish of the day, fresh from the local fishermen, or their signature ceviche. With your feet in the sand and a cold drink, you might feel like staying here all afternoon.

But try not to linger too long because Bucerías has an active side, as well. The waters here are relatively calm, making it ideal for paddleboarding and kayaking. You can rent equipment from various beachfront spots or sign up for a guided tour. Paddle out into the bay, keeping an eye out for dolphins and sea turtles that sometimes make an appearance. The views of the town from the water, with the mountains in the distance, are simply stunning.

Evening

After your paddleboarding adventure, head back to the hotel to freshen up before dinner at Mar y Sol, one of Bucerías’ best beachfront dining spots. This relaxed restaurant has killer views and even better seafood. Sit up on the deck underneath the bamboo nest lights and order everything from tuna tartare to shrimp Caesar salad and fresh lobster. The warm, glowy lighting and the sound of the waves make this a meal you won’t forget.

After your paddleboarding adventure, head back to the hotel to freshen up before dinner at Mar y Sol. (Mar y Sol/Facebook)

Sunday

Morning

Wake up to the sound of the waves and stretch out your body with a morning yoga session at Spanda Yoga Studio. The bright, warm studio is one of the best spots in the bay for yoga practice. Whether you’re a seasoned yogi or a beginner, it’s a great way to relax and center yourself before another day.

On Sundays, Bucerías comes alive with its bustling tianguis, a traditional Mexican flea market. Located in the town square, this market is a treasure trove of local handicrafts, textiles, ceramics and more. It’s the perfect place to pick up a few souvenirs for friends (or, hey, even for yourself).

Round out your weekend itinerary with some quality beach time on Playa Bucerías. Grab a spot under a palapa or lounge chair and soak up the sun. The water is warm and gentle, perfect for a refreshing swim, and you can always flag down a beach vendor for a coconut drink or a snack.

Afternoon

Before heading home, treat yourself to a final meal at Sandrina’s, a Mediterranean-Mexican fusion restaurant. Their Greek salad and seafood pasta are legendary, and the cool, shaded courtyard is a peaceful oasis. It’s the perfect spot to toast to a magical weekend in Bucerías.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

MND’s Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: The best and worst places for expat living in Mexico

By

MND Staff

-

October 6, 2024

17

You may be surprised by the winners and losers of MND's Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide. (Unsplash)

After more than four months of deliberation, Mexico News Daily has compiled an exhaustive list of expat living destinations across the country in the Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide. We’ve quite literally scaled the country, from river deep to mountain high to find and assess the best expat areas in the country.

Of course, some places have fared better than others. Our Where to Live in Mexico Guide has always been designed to appeal to the broadest range of people — so if you love the wilderness, you might find that the places you prefer have scored low.

But enough preamble, you’re surely keen to find out the winners and losers in our inaugural list. First up, the bottom three:

San Felipe has several beaches in the top 10 for high water quality. — It’s not you, it’s me, San Felipe.

San Felipe, Baja California (2.17)

Don’t get us wrong, there are plenty of things to like about San Felipe — although it didn’t receive much coverage in our Baja California guide. The town offers all the tourist comforts you would generally look for, and even boasts the Baja 500 road race as a jewel of the annual calendar.

The tradeoff of living here is that San Felipe is further away from all the home comforts found in the rest of the state. This also, critically, includes access to flights, with the San Felipe International Airport only serving those who can afford to charter their own aircraft. Instead, travelers will need to journey to Mexicali or Tijuana — two and a half hours and four and a half hours away, respectively — in order to catch a flight home.

The climate is also much hotter and more oppressive than other parts of the state, which may be perfect for snowbirds looking to escape the frozen north, but can present serious challenges during the summer months.

Manzanillo, Colima (2.17)

Once upon a time, Manzanillo was a destination in its own right. Those days, sadly, are long gone, though the comment section of our Mid-Pacific Trio guide certainly rode out in defense of the port city.

While commenters touted a low cost of living and great beaches, potential residents should be aware that Manzanillo offers poor connectivity with the rest of Mexico (and the world), with a handful of seasonal flights to Canada and the United States. With Aeroméxico launching regular flights to Atlanta and Los Angeles later this year, however, this may soon change.

Manzanillo also boasts a local arts scene, with music and events from around Colima, but it lacks the pull of bigger, grander destinations. Anyone in search of meaningful cultural experiences and events will be forced to travel elsewhere — either by taking a flight to Mexico City or a four-hour drive to Guadalajara.

Loreto, Baja California Sur (2.00)

Baja California Sur saw high scores for life in Los Cabos — which rated a very respectable 4.0 on our scale. Many locations throughout the rest of the state, however, suffer (or perhaps benefit, depending on your point of view) from the splendid isolation of the peninsula.

This is especially true of beautiful Loreto. Here, you will find yourself in a pleasant mission town with a modest marina, a golf course and wilderness as far as the eye can see. It’s a great place to come and enjoy the great outdoors.

That’s where the benefits end though. So, if you’re not into fitness, Loreto’s remoteness is perhaps not such a good thing. Access to the wider world is limited — which can be a problem for expats when it comes to healthcare, travel or even just finding some home comforts in your new environment.

Many locations throughout Baja California and BCS, suffer, or perhaps benefit, depending on your point of view, from the splendid isolation of the peninsula. (Ronival)

And now, the moment that you’ve all been waiting for. The three best cities for expats in Mexico for 2024:

Mexico City (4.33)

It should come as no surprise that one of the most-loved cities in the world scores so highly in our list. Whatever you want, Mexico City has it in spades. Culture, art, history, music, food — especially food — are all present in seemingly endless amounts.

Of course, its traffic, dizzying altitude and ever-present smog are negatives, but if you can get past these, there is truly nowhere else in the country — or perhaps even the world — quite like Mexico City.

An important caveat is that this ranking does not include the modern business suburb of Santa Fe, which suffers from traffic bottlenecks between the ultra-modern hillside district and the city proper.

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato (4.50)

SMA doesn’t keep being voted the “Best Small City in the World” for nothing, you know.

There actually isn’t much to say about San Miguel that hasn’t been said before — in fact, one commenter asked when we planned to change our name to “San Miguel News Daily!” — but the Guanajuato city receives a glut of coverage for very good reason.

As much as cities like Playa del Carmen or Puerto Vallarta are accused of being “Little America” in Mexico, San Miguel de Allende truly is that — but in all the best ways. It’s the perfect fusion between unapologetic “Mexicaninity” and a truly U.S. standard of living, with everything that entails. Enjoy a world-class meal, take in some authentic local culture and then retire to a house with all the modern conveniences you could want. This is the essence of San Miguel life in a nutshell. For comfort, connections, healthcare and a feeling of really being part of Mexico, it’s hard to see where expats could do better.

No. 1 on our list of best cities for expats in Mexico is Guadalajara, AKA Mexico City without the smog, traffic and altitude sickness. (Unsplash)

Guadalajara, Jalisco (4.50)

Tapatíos, rejoice. Our half-term rankings saw this giant of Mexican culture come out on top, and the final report is no different. Guadalajara likes to think of itself as the birthplace of Mexican culture, and in many ways, it is.

A great way to think about life in Guadalajara is that it is a lot like Mexico City without the negatives. Traffic can still be heavy, but the flat and comparatively non-seismic nature of the city means that getting around by public transport is much easier. Gone too are problems with altitude, though the city is still high-up enough to avoid the excessive heat of the Jalisco summer.

An excellently connected international airport and modern highway network mean that leaving town — whether for the pleasant shores of Lake Chapala, the Riviera Nayarit or a flight back home — is painless compared to most of Mexico.

Whether you’re in Guadalajara for work or play, this is a city that has everything — and it’s rightfully crowned our inaugural “Best City for Mexico Living 2024.”

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

Do you disagree with any of our rankings? Want to see somewhere else covered in our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide? Let us know!

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here, including ratings for Yucatán, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, the Baja California peninsula, Jalisco, Mexico City, a Pacific trio of beachside cities and major Bajío and Southern metropolitan areas.

Chris Havler-Barrett is the Features Editor at Mexico News Daily

A wish list for President Claudia Sheinbaum from our CEO

By

Travis Bembenek

-

October 5, 2024

29

President Claudia Sheinbaum at her inauguration — Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek shares his thoughts on important priorities for President Claudia Sheinbaum's term. (Presidencia)

I wrote this column shortly after Claudia Sheinbaum’s landslide electoral win in June and have decided it’s relevant to re-publish it now, four days after Mexico’s first female president took the oath of office.

I am excited about Mexico’s future and am hopeful and optimistic that President Sheinbaum will do well in leading the nation. However, I’ve come up with a wish list for her term based on what I think are important issues for the country that she will need to address.

Claudia Sheinbaum and Travis Bembenek — During the presidential campaign, Travis had the opportunity to attend a presentation by Claudia Sheinbaum. (Courtesy)

Be a president for all Mexicans

Make it clear with some initial gestures that you will be the president of all Mexicans. Unfortunately, AMLO’s leadership has been characterized as accelerating the polarization in politics in Mexico. As we have seen in other countries around the world, this is not productive nor healthy for the future of the country. Demonstrate that you will take immediate steps to reduce the polarization in Mexican politics by taking into account important priorities from the opposition candidates.

Make it clear how your leadership will differ from AMLO’s

On day one, make it clear if and how your leadership and policies will be different than AMLO’s. One of the biggest concerns and complaints from people who disagree with AMLO’s policies is that they think you will be a “puppet of AMLO’s” and not act independently. Be specific in telling us how you will be different.

Be proactive on nearshoring

Recognize the massive opportunity that Mexico has for foreign direct investment (FDI) with the nearshoring trend and make it clear that Mexico is open for business and investment. Understand that the investment is not guaranteed and must be earned with the trust of businesses, entrepreneurs and investors.

Don’t hold on to the “super peso”

Understand that a strong peso — although politically popular — is not necessarily a good thing for Mexico and many Mexicans. Do not link your administration’s success to the strength of the peso.

Make changes to improve security

Take serious, innovative steps towards improving the security situation in the country. Understand that there is nothing holding back Mexico’s potential more than both the perception and unfortunate reality of violence throughout the country.

Make Mexico a leader in renewable energy

Be bold with a vision to make Mexico a world leader in solar power generation and water reuse and recycling technologies. Mexico needs to show strong leadership in these areas and every peso invested here will pay tremendous dividends to future generations of Mexicans. Inspire us with your experience and leadership in this area.

Re-engage with the global community

AMLO wrongly pulled back on participating in global leadership gatherings. Mexico’s voice and leadership on global affairs is more important than ever. Be crystal clear on the strategic importance of a strong free trade agreement in which the U.S., Canada and Mexico are aligned and cooperating on global trade issues, especially in regards to China.

Address infrastructure gaps

The infrastructure investments made in the southeast during AMLO’s term have been impressive. However, there are still significant infrastructure improvements needed in the north and central parts of the country to accelerate nearshoring investments. Not urgently addressing this will ultimately hurt Mexico’s ability to fully take advantage of this opportunity.

Re-think public companies

Reconsider the role of the Mexican government in areas where private enterprise can help fund and accelerate growth. The state-run companies of CFE and Pemex are unfortunate examples of what can go terribly wrong when the government attempts to run companies. Take a hard look at what can be done to improve these businesses, consider how private investment can help, and reconsider AMLO’s recent moves to have the government involved with building airports, highways and operating Mexicana airlines, etc.

Think big and bold

Inspire confidence from everyone in the country. Surprise your critics with your ability to think and act beyond your political party. Mexico has a historic opportunity given the current geopolitical situation worldwide. It truly is Mexico’s opportunity to shine – but you have to believe it, make all Mexicans believe it and make the world believe it!

Below you will find more MND coverage of President Sheinbaum’s first days in office:

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

Laugh please: It’s the best Mexican meme roundup around

By

Sarah DeVries

-

October 5, 2024

4

Greetings, my friends! The time has come for our last Saturday edition of the best Mexican memes on the internet… for now! Until then, let’s enjoy one last hurrah for this format: some humor through Mexican memes to keep us ja-ja-ja-ing!

Meme translation: Well, none. The good part is the blanket.

What does it meme? Above we have Bengt Ekerot’s iconic portrayal of Death in “The Seventh Seal.” It has nothing to do with Mexico, but if you haven’t seen it, I recommend it.

If there’s one thing Mexico does well, it’s making a joke out of pretty much anything, Mexican or not. And as chilly weather finally arrives with the fall, it’s time to break out the San Marcos, Mexico’s most iconic blankets, recognizable for their animal or Virgin of Guadalupe designs, and oh-so-warm.

Unfortunately, the original factory that made these blankets went out of business years ago, greatly due to the presence on the market of cheaper knock-offs. The designs, though, are here to stay. I pray, though probably fruitlessly, that Mexico will be able to wrest this industry back somehow!

Meme translation: “It’s my birthday today!”
“No, no, no. Your birthday was on Cinco de Mayo, I remember it well.”

What does it meme? Lots of Americans think that Cinco de Mayo is as big a deal in Mexico as it is in the U.S. Though we often have the day off in Mexico as well, I think it is actually a bigger deal in the U.S! If you’re interested, here’s a good rundown of the holiday.

It’s not, of course, Mexico’s Independence Day, though many Mexicans are aware that lots of people think it is. Some might roll their eyes, but most prefer a laugh at our expense. Usually, it’s deserved.

Meme translation: “Please don’t let the the earth shake to its core.”

What does it meme? I am ashamed to admit that I still have not learned Mexico’s national anthem. Especially now that I have a kid in school who participates in flag ceremonies, I really should.

But I do know the line above from the chorus. “Y retiemble en sus centros la tierra!”: “Let the earth shake to its core!”

And I also know that Chilangos are a little jumpy given the propensity of their city to jiggle around a bit during Independence season, a time where you get to hear the national anthem an extra lot. I wonder how many people, while singing, whisper a quick prayer of “No es cierto!” — “Not!” — before continuing to the next line.

Meme translation: “Claxcala (sic) with everything, people included.”

“$2,136, 19% off; in interest-free payments of $142.40 over 15 months. Tax included.”

What does it meme? In case you don’t recognize the format up there, that’s an ad from Mercado Libre, an online marketplace not unlike Amazon that’s been popular in Latin America for well over a decade.

The misspelling, the price with a payment plan option, “people included”: it all cracked me up, and continues to crack me up every time I see it. I only went there once 20 years ago when I was pretty ill, but I’m sure it’s worth more than the listed price. As Mexico’s smallest state, it gets picked on a lot. Poor Tlaxcaltecas.

Meme translation: “Hurry, there’s no time to explain, drink this potion!”

What does it meme? Adorable, right? Spooky season is upon us, and beer drinking season is always upon us. So remember: if a little kitty witch hands you a caguama — a 32 ounce bottle of beer — and calls it potion, you accept it!

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Pampering plus – A guide to wellness spas in Los Cabos

By

Chris Sands

-

October 5, 2024

0

Spas in Los Cabos — There's nowhere like Los Cabos to relax and unwind, so why not try one of Baja California Sur's world-class spa experiences? (Solmar Hotels & Resorts)

Resorts in Los Cabos embraced spas the same way they embraced golf courses, which is to say that they looked at the best available examples and then attempted to go them one better. The level of pampering comfort at the average Los Cabos lodging is enough to shame a decadent Roman emperor. All that’s missing is an attendant to feed you grapes.

What is available typically at Los Cabos spas is a beautifully designed area devoted to health and wellness, from a wide range of massage treatments – in private cabanas or on the beach – to romantic couples’ rituals, ancient Mexican healing therapies, and other holistic specialties. That’s to go along with the state-of-the-art gym, yoga classes, sauna, hot and cold plunge pools, and maybe even beauty and styling services. At least one resort will also massage your pets.

Rest, relaxation, and pampering massages are all Los Cabos specialties. (Esperanza, Auberge Resorts Collection)

The Evolution of spas in Los Cabos

Special dog massages are among the many signature spa experiences at Las Ventanas al Paraíso, one of the benchmark resorts in Los Cabos, and the first to feature a world-class spa when it opened its doors in 1997. Not to be outdone, another local benchmark property, One&Only Palmilla, built a 25,000-square-foot spa boasting splendid artistic and architectural details. Thus began an arms race (skilled masseuse arms, not weapons) to create the area’s biggest and best spa and wellness facility. The race reached its zenith between 2016 and 2018, when two new properties, Grand Velas Los Cabos and Montage Los Cabos, unveiled what are doubtless the largest spas ever seen on the Baja California peninsula (SE Spa and Spa Montage are 35,000 and 40,000 square feet, respectively).

By then, however, One&Only Palmilla had renovated its spa, reducing its overall spa size by 3,000 square feet (zig, while others are zagging, is the Los Cabos luxury resort mantra), but upgrading its spa menu and services across the board. Thirteen new private spa villas were added on that occasion, in addition to a new salon from famed Beverly Hills stylists, and an upscale men’s barbershop.

Finding the Perfect Spa in Los Cabos

The properties mentioned above are clearly among the best in the area, with world-class spa facilities. But the amazing thing about Los Cabos is that so many of its hotels and resorts have well-outfitted spas, including in some cases, rituals or therapies not offered anywhere else. Typically, spa services are not included in the room rate, even for all-inclusive lodgings. Still, it’s a luxury worth splurging on based on the surfeit of superb options, and you can visit other resorts if the spa at yours is found wanting, or if you’re curious about the spa menus elsewhere.

With that in mind, here’s a guide to some of the basic categories of services, and the resorts that best provide them.

Special treatments

Want another reason to visit multiple spas in Los Cabos? It’s the only way to experience signature treatments exclusive to a given resort. For instance, only Fiesta Americana Los Cabos specializes in vinotherapy, with healing treatments based on wine. Hence its name: SOMMA Wine SPA. Meanwhile, at Casa Dorada’s Saltwater Spa, treatments are premised on the curative properties of water sourced from the Sea of Cortés. By contrast, Las Ventanas al Paraíso’s The Spa at Las Ventanas draws inspiration from the four elements (earth, air, fire, and water).

Romantic couples treatments are also a Los Cabos specialty. One of the best examples currently is the three-hour-long Romance for Two at The Spa at Las Ventanas, where couples can enjoy an array of pampering pleasures culminating with passion cocktails and a rose petal bath for two. But also notable is the intimate four-hour Bonding Experience at Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas featuring exfoliating body wraps, body scrubs, facials, and side-by-side massages.

Traditional Mexican healing techniques are a feature at many Los Cabos spas. (One&Only Palmilla)

Mexican wellness rituals

Temazcal rituals, similar in purifying spirit to Native American sweat lodges, are offered by several local resorts. Playa Grande Resort & Grand Spa is one of them and has even built a traditional hut on the rooftop of its resort where its temazcaleros can guide guests through the wellness process. JW Marriott Los Cabos Beach Resort and Spa in San José del Cabo is also a temazcal specialist, as is One&Only Palmilla’s One&Only Spa.

Curanderismo, a term encompassing wellness therapies practiced by Mexican folk healers, is also present in Los Cabos, notably at the Waldorf Astoria Spa at Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal, where several traditional healers are employed.

Massages

Massages are a centerpiece at many spas, with menus that offer everything from Swedish and deep tissue massages to hot stone, reflexology, sports, aromatherapy, and more. For example, Hilton Los Cabos’ Eforea Spa boasts all of the above plus a more exotic raindrop massage.

However, the setting, perhaps even more than style, is the key element for massages in Los Cabos, an area noted for its spectacular ocean vistas. As many local resorts are on or near beaches, it’s often an option to enjoy relaxing rubdowns in private beachside cabañas or on massage tables set up on the sand. My favorite cabañas are at the Solmar Resort, one of the first lodgings ever built in Cabo San Lucas. Designed rustically in the region’s distinctive palo de arco architectural style, the Solmar Spa’s cabañas are so close to the water you feel the fresh ocean air and hear the sound of waves breaking on the shore as your masseuse works out any remaining tension.

It should be noted that there are non-resort spas in Los Cabos, too, and not all are of the “amigo massage” variety (“Hey amigo, want a massage?”). One of the watering holes on Cabo San Lucas’ popular Médano Beach, The Sand Bar, offers quality massages at affordable rates.

Other Amenities

Gyms, or more accurately, fitness facilities are also standard at most Los Cabos resorts, as are yoga classes, often in picturesque outdoor settings. However, some resorts are more committed to the latter concept than others. The Spa at Esperanza, one of the most acclaimed of all Los Cabos spas, has, among its many plaudits (Travel+Leisure once dubbed it not only the best spa in México but in all of Latin America) long been a leader in the fitness class area, thanks to a “trainer in residence” program that regularly sees fitness gurus from the U.S. visiting Los Cabos to act as guest instructors in Yoga, Pilates, and other disciplines.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Felipe Ángeles International Airport wins architectural design award

By

MND Staff

-

October 4, 2024

0

Felipe Angeles International Airport at sunset — The flagship project built by former President López Obrador faced criticism and even ridicule by opponents when it opened. (Wikimedia Commons)

The Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA), the army-built airport north of Mexico City that opened in 2022, has been recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful airports.

Located in Zumpango, México state, and designed by Mexican architect Francisco González-Pulido, AIFA is one of six laureates in the airports category of the Prix Versailles, known as “The World Architecture and Design Award.”

One issue already identified: AICM apparently received little training and support as to how to direct flights operating in the new airspace configuration created when Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) opened north of the capital. — The Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) opened in March of 2022. It is run by the Defense Ministry. (Gob MX)

In a press release announcing “the World’s Most Beautiful Airports List for 2024,” Prix Versailles said that AIFA and five other airports including Kansas City International Airport and Changi Airport Terminal 2 in Singapore “have left extraordinary imprints on their environments.”

All of the six laureates are newly opened or renovated airports, and all will compete for “three 2024 World Titles – Prix Versailles, Interior and Exterior – whose laureates will be announced at UNESCO Headquarters on 2 December 2024,” according to the press release.

Prix Versailles said that “with its control tower reminiscent of an Aztec macuahuitl,” – a pre-Columbian wooden club, AIFA “sets the tone in a brotherly tribute to the country’s different states.”

“For example, the sun stone installed in the middle of the terminal features carefully designed iconography, inspired by culture and tradition. The interior staging showcases Mexico’s rich historical heritage and invites passengers to explore the different museums and thematic toilet facilities as part of a voyage that is as aesthetically pleasing as it is original.”

Prix Versailles also noted that the AIFA terminal “contains 18 separate modules and 1,316 columns, each one mounted on special pendulum isolators for earthquake protection.”

The building, it added, is the biggest in the Americas to be fitted with this technology.

Air traffic control tower at Felipe Angeles International Airport in Mexico state. The tall tubular tower is built to look somewhat like an ancient indigenous weapon used by Mexico's original peoples — One detail that Prix Versailles noted about AIFA was its frequent nods to Mexico’s Indigenous cultural heritage. Even the air traffic control tower is reminiscent of a macuahuitl, an ancient club-type weapon used by several of Mexico’s original peoples, the organization said. (AIFA)

“The site also skilfully maximises the attention given to its natural setting by optimizing its boarding gates’ exposure to natural light and arranging a 4,300 m² central garden plus many more green areas, all great places for activities or relaxation,” Prix Versailles said.

“Its unique landscape makes this project the perfect fit for its environment.”

President Claudia Sheinbaum acknowledged AIFA’s recognition by Prix Versailles in a social media post on Thursday.

“Look: the Felipe Ángeles International Airport was selected by the prestigious Prix Versailles award as one of the most beautiful architecture and design achievements in the world, on par with airports in Abu Dhabi, Singapore, Bangkok, Boston and Kansas City,” she wrote.

Former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador took the decision to build AIFA on the Santa Lucía Air Force base after canceling the previous government’s international airport project in Texcoco, México state.

While it’s an international airport by name, only a few international passenger flights arrive at and depart from AIFA.

Mexican hotel among ‘the world’s most beautiful’

Prix Versailles also designated 16 newly opened or reopened hotels as “the world’s most beautiful hotels.”

Among them is Maroma, A Belomond Hotel, located north of the Caribbean coast resort city of Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo.

“Between a tropical jungle and a white sand beach, in the beating heart of the Riviera Maya, Tara Bernerd & Partners were tasked with restoring the resort to its natural and cultural environment,” Prix Versailles said.

kidney shaped pool surrounded by tall palm trees at Maroma Hotel in Playa del Carmen — The Prix Versailles competition also recognized the recently renovated Maroma hotel, a Belmond property in Playa del Carmen, for “restoring the resort to its natural and cultural environment.” (Maroma)

“This challenge was met and exceeded by Maroma’s 72 guest rooms, suites and villas, all of which embrace ancient Mayan traditions. … The renovation drew on Mexican heritage … whilst showcasing Maroma’s original architecture, with white stucco buildings aligned according to the sacred geometry of Mayan masonry,” it said.

“In addition to the experiences offered by the hotel, the entire site now contributes to the spirituality tied to the genius of the place, the spirituality of a mind in perfect symbiosis with its environment.”

Maroma is not the only Mexican hotel to have recently earned international recognition.

Last month, Michelin, the French tire company known for its star scheme in recognition of outstanding restaurant cooking, awarded “Michelin Keys” to 87 hotels in Mexico that offer “extraordinary, exceptional” or “very special” stays.

Earlier this week, Global travel magazine Condé Nast Traveler announced its Readers’ Choice Awards 2024, including its list of the top 10 hotels in Mexico.

Mexico News Daily

Taste of Mexico: Corundas

By

María Meléndez

-

October 4, 2024

6

Similar to a tamal but served with salsa and crema, the corunda will have you moving to Michoacán. — Similar to a tamale but served with salsa and crema, the corunda will have you moving to Michoacán. (La Casa de La Corunda/Facebook)

Remember the article about corn where I listed numerous dishes that can be made from it? I mentioned corundas as one of my absolute favorites. As I’m writing this article, I’m feeling abundant and blessed, with the power of manifestation within me, because a very good friend of mine just arrived at my house with a bag full of corundas.

What are corundas?

Corundas are a dish with pre-Columbian origins that consists of corn masa (dough) wrapped in (more) corn — or reed — leaves and steamed. They can be either triangles or thin rectangles in shape. The texture of corundas is distinct and differs greatly from the more common tamal, which is often fluffier, like bread. Corundas are denser and more tender, with a more intense flavor.

This dish originates from the center-west state of Michoacán, a region native to the Purépecha. For them, corundas were an everyday dish available all year round. With the arrival of the Spanish and new sources of protein, corundas began to be made with pork or chicken meat.

Types of corundas

Ash* corundas: These are made with a dough of reed ash mixed with corn flour, lard and salt. Ash corundas are wrapped in reed leaves and have a flat shape.
*If you get health and sanitary concerns as soon as you read the word ash, you are not alone. I never really thought about how safe it is to eat the ashes of a plant. I mean, we’ve been eating it for centuries without any known consequence, but still.

Regular corundas: These are the most well-known type and have a triangular shape. The dough is made from corn flour, lard, salt and water if necessary. Sometimes, they are filled with cheese, pork, bean dough, fava beans or chickpeas. I personally prefer them unfilled, and served with pork in red sauce on the side.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Mexico News Daily (@mexiconewsdaily)

Where to eat corundas?

If you visit Michoacán or a Michoacán-style restaurant, you will find corundas on the menu as they are the most typical dish of the area. Alternatively, you could find yourself a Michoacán “ambassador” in your city who can bring you corundas.

But if you feel like cooking them, here is my family recipe:

LA RECETA (25 corundas)

250 grams of pork lard
250 grams of vegetable shortening
800 grams of corn masa (for tortillas)
1 teaspoon of baking soda
1 teaspoon of baking powder
3 cups of warm water with a pinch of salt
25-30 long and thin corn husks (from the plant, not the cob)

Begin by preparing the dough. Mix the corn masa with the baking soda and baking powder, along with three cups of warm water. Once the dough is ready, set it aside for a moment.
Next, beat the lard until it reaches a creamy consistency. Gradually incorporate the dough into the whipped lard. If your dough becomes a little dry or stiff, add more warm salted water.
Once your dough is ready, take one of the corn husks. Grab a small ball of dough and place it at one end. Begin to “close” the dough ball, and naturally, the triangular shape will form. Repeat this process until you finish the dough. To fill the corundas, use your finger to make a hole in the dough and add cheese or a small piece of cooked pork.
In a large steamer, place all of your corundas and let them cook for about an hour.

THE “CALDILLO”

6 tomatoes
1 chile serrano (I like it better with 2)
1 clove of garlic
1 quarter of an onion
Salt to taste

While the corundas are cooking, you can prepare the typical red sauce that goes with them. Boil the tomatoes with the serrano chile. Once they are ready, blend them with a clove of garlic and a piece of onion until you have a sauce, using the water from the boiling process. After blending, you’ll have a “caldillo” (similar to a broth).

If you want to prepare it Michoacán style, add small cubes of pork to cook in the “caldillo.” If you’re vegetarian or vegan, the caldillo on its own will be delicious.

Now, unwrap a couple of your steamed corundas, place them on a plate and drizzle them with the caldillo. Add a spoonful of crema on top and sprinkle some grated cotija cheese or queso fresco.

Isn’t that the most glorious thing you’ve ever tasted?

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

Peso performs well during Claudia Sheinbaum’s first week as president

By

MND Staff

-

October 4, 2024

2

Claudia Sheinbaum staring into the camera at a press conference and smiling. — Mexico's President Sheinbaum's first week in office got off to a good start, with the peso appreciating more than 2%. As of Friday afternoon, it was at 19.28 to the United States dollar. (Victoria Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)

The Mexican peso appreciated more than 2% against the U.S. dollar this week, making gains both before and after Claudia Sheinbaum was sworn in as president.

The peso was trading at 19.28 to the greenback shortly after 4 p.m. Friday, an appreciation of 2.1% compared to its position at the close of markets a week ago.

El peso se aprecia después de la publicación de los datos de empleo de EEUU 🇺🇸 pic.twitter.com/UYcEevM0lA

— Gabriela Siller Pagaza (@GabySillerP) October 4, 2024

Banco Base’s Economic Analysis Director Gabriela Siller said one factor in the peso’s appreciation on Friday was the release of a positive U.S. employment report.

Earlier on Friday, the peso reached 19.14 to the dollar before weakening slightly, according to currency website xe.com.

Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at Banco Base, noted on X on Friday morning that the peso appreciated every day this week. At the time of her post, the cumulative gain was 2.72%, she said.

In a separate post, Siller noted that the peso’s appreciation on Friday came after the publication of employment data in the United States. The better-than-expected data showed that nonfarm payrolls increased by 254,000 jobs last month, the most since March, according to Reuters.

The U.S. economy “added a whopping 254,000 jobs last month,” CNN said in a headline. The U.S. unemployment rate fell to 4.1% from 4.2%.

Mexico benefits from a strong U.S. economy as the United States is the primary destination for its exports. A strong U.S. economy also supports the transfer of remittances to Mexico, which totaled more than US $6 billion in August.

The United States jobs data reduces the likelihood that the U.S. Federal Reserve will make another large interest rate cut this year. The Fed slashed its federal funds rate by 50 basis points last month, lowering it to a range of 4.75%–5%.

Car carrier exports — Mexico’s fortunes are tied to the U.S. economic outlook since the U.S. is Mexico’s largest trading partner. Depositphotos

The Mexican peso benefited for an extended period from the large difference between the Bank of Mexico’s key interest rate — currently 10.50% — and that of the Fed.

However, after reaching an almost nine-year high of 16.30 to the dollar in April, the currency depreciated significantly after Mexico’s June 2 elections.

A major factor in the peso’s decline was concern over the federal government’s judicial reform, which was approved by Congress, and promulgated by former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador in September.

The appreciation of the peso this week coincided with the end of former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s six-year term and the commencement of Sheinbaum’s presidency.

The 62-year-old former Mexico City mayor was sworn in as Mexico’s first female president on Tuesday. The peso reacted positively to her inauguration, appreciating more than 1% compared to its weakest position earlier in the day.

The El Economista newspaper reported that the peso performed better on Sheinbaum’s first day as president than it did on the days former presidents López Obrador, Enrique Peña Nieto (2012–2018) and Felipe Calderón (2006–2012) were sworn in.

In her first speech as president, Sheinbaum once again sought to reassure investors that they have nothing to worry about.

She conveyed the same message during the four months between her convincing election victory on June 2 and her inauguration this week.

Later this month, the new president will meet with representatives of 45 large companies at the U.S.-Mexico CEO Dialogue, an annual meeting.

Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard said last month that Sheinbaum will explain to the executives “how the judicial reform will work.”

Ebrard, who served as foreign affairs minister during the majority of López Obrador’s six-year term, also said that the new federal government will be respectful of foreign investment in Mexico.

With reports from El Economista

7 bodies found in Culiacán as Sinaloa Cartel infighting continues

By

MND Staff

-

October 4, 2024

2

The discovery of the seven bodies in and around Culiacán is just the latest killings in a wave of violence that has plagued the Sinaloa capital. (José Betanzos Zárate/Cuartoscuro)

Seven bodies were found in Culiacán, Sinaloa, Thursday, where a war between rival factions of the Sinaloa Cartel has claimed scores of lives in recent weeks.

The bodies of five men were found in the Miguel de la Madrid neighborhood of the state capital while one was located near the town of Costa Rica in the municipality of Culiacán and another was found in the Ejido Echeverría area, according to the Sinaloa Attorney General’s Office (FGE).

El Mayo Zambada and Joaquín Guzmán López — The killings are believed to have been sparked by the U.S. arrests of Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada, left, and Joaquín Guzmán López, right. who were both high-level members of the Sinaloa Cartel but in rival factions. Both are facing trials in US court. (Archive)

The bodies found in Miguel de la Madrid, located in the south of the city of Culiacán, were dumped in the street near a motel and cemetery, and not far from military barracks.

The victims — all of whom had been shot and whose bodies showed signs of torture — were semi-naked, but sombreros had been placed on their heads. They were reportedly aged between 20 and 30.

The news magazine Proceso reported that at least 15 bodies with sombreros on their heads have been dumped in southern Culiacán in recent weeks. TV Azteca reported that the hats are a “clear reference to an organized crime group” but didn’t elaborate.

About two weeks ago, Mexico-based crime journalist Ioan Grillo published an article on his website talking about the bodies that have been dumped in Culiacán in recent weeks with sombreros placed on their heads. He also said a severed head was left in the street inside a pizza box.

“Sombreros” is a nickname for Los Mayos — Sinaloa Cartel members loyal to arrested leader Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada — whereas pizza is a reference to Los Chapitos, whose nickname is “Chapiza,” Grillo said. Los Chapitos are the Sinaloa Cartel faction run by the sons of former Sinaloa Cartel leader, Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán, who is serving a life sentence in the U.S.

However, Grillo added, it wasn’t clear whether the symbols were being placed with the bodies to represent the killers or to mock the victims.

Woman sitting on stone stairs has her arm around the head of another woman who appears to be struck with grief. Both are participants in a march in Culiacan, Sinaloa, to demand that authorities put an end to the wave of cartel violence currently killing and kidnapping hundreds of residents. — On Thursday, families of victims marched in Culiacán to the state Attorney General’s Office, demanding an end to the wave of violence blamed on the Sinaloa Cartel. (José Betaznos Zárate/Cuartoscuro)

The FGE said that homicide investigations in connection with the discovery of all seven bodies in Culiacán on Thursday had commenced.

There have been more than 130 homicides and around 160 abductions in Sinaloa in the past four weeks, according to official data. Six kidnappings were reported in Culiacán on Thursday. Many of the murders and kidnappings are linked to the battle between the Los Chapitos and Los Mayos factions.

Their long-running feud intensified after the arrest in the United States in late July of alleged Sinaloa Cartel kingpin Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada García after his alleged kidnapping by Joaquín Guzmán López, one of the sons of convicted drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán, who turned himself into U.S. authorities after arriving in the U.S. Both are facing charges in US federal court.

The situation has been particularly bad since Sept. 9, when clashes between armed civilians, and between alleged criminals and the army, occurred in the La Campiña neighborhood of Culiacán.

With reports from Reforma, Debate, Proceso, Infobae and El Financiero

Know your neighborhood: La Condesa

By

Bethany Platanella

-

October 4, 2024

1

Plaza Popocatepetl in La Condesa — Art Deco architecture and lush surroundings make La Condesa one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in CDMX. (Keizers/CC BY-SA 3.0)

Borough: Cuauhtémoc
Established: 1927
Location: 3 km southwest of the Angel de la Independencia

Who lives here

From the day of its inauguration, Condesa has been a hub for artists and cinema stars. Notable figures such as the famous composer Agustín Lara and flamenco dancer Pilar Rioja settled in Condesa. Mexico’s beloved comedian Mario Moreno, better known as Cantinflas, was so captivated by the neighborhood’s atmosphere he decided it was the right place to open an office.

Street sign for Avenida Amsterdam in La Condesa guide — The oval-shaped Avenida Ámsterdam is the heart of La Condesa. (Stephanie Lopez/CC BY-SA 4.0)

When the 1985 earthquake hit Mexico City, parts of Condesa were all but destroyed, leading to an exodus of affluent residents. Even today, the mix of older structures make the colonia one of the most fragile in the city. Despite the risk, low rents attracted a new wave of students and artists and by the early 1990s, it had revived with fervor. It seemingly hasn’t lost its touch, as today it’s one of the most coveted neighborhoods in Mexico City. The current population spans all ages, though you’re likely to notice a bounty of 20- to 30-somethings and a disturbing amount of English.

A brief history of La Condesa

Condesa gets its name from María Magdalena Catalina Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orosco, a wealthy 18th-century aristocrat and the third Countess, or condesa, of Miravalle. Born in 1701, she married Pedro Antonio de Trebuesto y Alvarado at 18 and inherited significant wealth which included land and property.

Even though her husband died early on, the countess managed her estates meticulously and soon expanded her landholdings to comprise the area we now know as Condesa. Well-known in Mexico City, her personal hacienda came to be known locally as La Condesa. However, it wasn’t until the Porfirio Díaz era that the neighborhood truly flourished. In 1910, the Jockey Club de México built the famous Hipódromo de la Condesa racetrack, which ran along what is now Avenida Ámsterdam. When operations ceased in the early 1920s, Condesa transformed into what we see today: a residential neighborhood characterized by parks, tree-lined avenues, boutique cafes and Art Deco architecture.

A guide to La Condesa today

La Condesa is one of the most vibrant and culturally rich neighborhoods in Mexico City. It’s more than just a haven for expats – young professionals, artists and entrepreneurs love the laid-back atmosphere and whimsical look. Tourists flock by the hundreds for a coffee at Quentin and a stroll around the lush Avenida Ámsterdam.

Woman walking with a dog in La Condesa — The tree-lined pedestrian mall of Avenida Mazatlán is a neighborhood icon. (Alcaldía Cuauhtémoc)

The Condesa area is divided into three sections: Colonia Condesa to the north, notably home to Parque España; Hipódromo to the southeast, the largest zone known for Avenida Amsterdam and Parque México; and Hipódromo Condesa, a mostly-residential nook to the southwest.

These three zones are hugged by Avenida Insurgentes, Avenida Veracruz and Circuito Interior. La Condesa is encased by La Juárez, Roma Norte, Escandón and San Miguel Chapultepec. Its shining centerpiece is Parque México, where you can accomplish almost any goal that involves walking your dog, buying fresh flowers or taking zumba classes. Surrounding the park are various dining establishments, as well as bakeries, tea houses and trendy hotels. Quieter, more residential streets spiderweb out from the park, home to everything from humans to art galleries to laundromats.

La Condesa is great if you love: A wide variety of international restaurants where you’re just as likely to receive an English-language menu as you are to see no less than 12 dog breeds dining alongside you. It’s also a great spot for art and architecture enthusiasts, and is sure to make your Instagram feed more popular than the rest of your friends’, if only for a day.

What to do in La Condesa

Avenida Amsterdam: This oval-shaped avenue is the heart of Condesa, lined with beautiful Art Deco architecture and a lovely pedestrian walkway.

A well-lit avenue known as a "Sendero Seguro" in Condesa, Mexico City — The intersection of Alfonso Reyes and Avenida Tamaulipas. (Cuartoscuro)

Parque México: Perhaps the only sprawling urban park in Mexico City where you can meditate in a floating chair, take a boxing lesson and ponder the life of a swan by the lake.

Parque España: Parque México’s smaller sibling, equally lovely with an abundance of trees, fountains and murals.

Tuesday tianguis: Meander blocks and blocks of local fruits, veggies, flowers, meat, cheese and honey. Finish it all off with some freshly-made tacos at any of the tented stands. The market starts at Calle Pachuca and Avenida Veracruz.

Proyecto Paralelo: A cool contemporary art gallery that showcases established and emerging artists from all over the world.

La Clandestina: When in Mexico, one must drink mezcal. And that mezcal inevitably tastes better in a mezcalería, and even better when it’s in the sexy and sultry La Clandestina, 15 years strong.

Baltra Bar: Prefer a fancy cocktail? This regular on the World’s 50 Best Bars list is your spot, and its vintage-style furniture and award-winning mixologists make it a no-brainer.

Foro Shakespeare: Head to this quirky cultural venue to catch a variety of performances, including theater, live music and stand up.

Antonia Librería: A charming bookshop that often hosts author readings and creative workshops and carries a variety of Spanish and English-language books.

Proyecto Rufina: Go shopping, duh. The contemporary clothing brand emphasizes traditional Mexican textile craftsmanship. Its unique products are made of natural fibers and pieces are limited in production to reduce waste.

Condesa’s Restaurante Botánico. (Open Table)

Where to eat in La Condesa

Tacos Hola El Güero: This beloved, no frills taquería attracts absolutely everyone, regardless of background, for its generous portions, meat and veggie fillings and delicious salsas. Try the chicken tinga tacos, eaten standing up.

Lardo: There will be a wait because it’s on every trendy must-do list, but Lardo will always be a solid spot for brunch. The menu focuses on seasonal ingredients and artisanal cooking techniques blending Mediterranean with Mexico.

Merkavá de Daniel Ovadia: One of the most popular haunts in La Condesa, this cozy Israeli hotspot is sought after for its creamy hummus, served with freshly baked pita.

Cafe Orquídea: You won’t even know their cookies and pastries are gluten-free and sugar free by the taste, and the leafy location on Avenida Amsterdam makes a stop in this charming cafe that much more magical.

Restaurante Botánico: Sipping on a pricey Aperol spritz is better when you’re sitting in a literal garden. A great spot for brunch or lunch for those chasing Soho House vibes without the membership.

Ceviche Bichi: Plastic tablecloths, tons of salsas and a cheerful, casual atmosphere makes this adorable ceviche establishment a must for any seafood lover.

One hidden gem

Diente de Oro claims to have the largest collection of whiskeys in the city. What it definitely has is an eclectic collection of patrons. For a truly local, down-to-earth experience, knock back a shot or two of your favorite spirit while people-watching the night away at this small but well-loved bar.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.